DE102008030660A1 - Agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one specific cellulose and at least one additional film-forming and / or setting polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Agent for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I), $ F1 in which R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C1 to C6) Alkyl group or a group -CH2-CHR1- (O-CH2-CHR1-) mOH, wherein R1 is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group, m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the Provided that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C1 to C6) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH2-CHR1- (O-CH2-CHR1-) mOH, n is an integer greater than zero means, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, the use of the means for the temporary deformation of hair and for hair care, in particular as hair foam.

Description

The The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one particular cellulose with at least a film-forming and / or setting polymer, the use of these Means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinhaltiger Fibers and aerosol hair foams based on these agents.

Under Keratin-containing fibers are in principle all animal hair, z. As wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and made therefrom Products or textiles understood. Preferably, it is However, the keratinic fibers around human hair.

A appealing-looking hairstyle is now generally considered indispensable Part of a well-kept exterior. there are due to current fashion trends again and again Hairstyles as chic, which are used on many hair types only consolidate active ingredients or for a longer period up to several days to maintain. Therefore play Hair treatment products that are permanent or temporary Shaping the hair serve an important role. Temporary Shapes that should give a good grip, without the healthy Appearance of the hair, such as its gloss, to affect For example, hairsprays, hair waxes, hair gels, Hair foams, hair drier, etc. can be achieved.

Appropriate Means for temporary shaping contain as shaping Component usually synthetic polymers. preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer, can by means of propellant gases or by a pump mechanism be applied to the hair. In particular hair gels and hair waxes are usually not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a temporary deformation agent Keratinischer fibers, hereinafter also called styling agent exists in it, the treated fibers in the produced form as strong as possible Stop. Is the keratinic fibers human? Hair, one speaks of strong hairstyle or high Holding level of the styling agent. The hairstyle is essentially through determines the type and amount of synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other components of the styling agent can be given.

Next A high degree of hold requires styling agents a whole bunch meet further requirements. these can coarse in properties on the hair, properties of the respective formulation, z. B. properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed Aerosols, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent be divided into, the properties on the hair special Importance. In particular, moisture resistance, low stickiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Farther should a styling agent as possible for all hair types be universally applicable.

Around The different requirements have already been met a variety of synthetic polymers developed in styling agents come into use. The polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers divide. Ideally, the polymers result in use on the hair a polymer film, on the one hand the hairstyle one provides strong support, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible, so as not to break when loaded. Is the polymer film too brittle, it comes to the formation of so-called Filmplaken, that is Residues that are involved in the movement of the hair replace and give the impression of the user of the appropriate styling agent would have dandruff.

styling agents to develop all the desired properties in combination are still causing difficulties. In particular, applies this for the combination of strong hold on the one hand and simple, uniform application to the keratin-containing Fibers on the other hand.

task The present invention was therefore a means for temporary Deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available to ask, which is characterized by a high degree of hold or by a high Nursing features and in particular excellent handling during application to the keratin-containing fibers has.

It has now surprisingly found that this by a combination of special polymers can be achieved.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein filmbildendes und/oder festigendes Polymer.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer.

Preferably, such celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention which, according to formula (I), as R independently of one another, is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an isopropyl group, a group. CH ₂ CH ₂ - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p -OH, wherein p is an integer greater than or equal to zero, or a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH, where q is a denotes an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _{p is} -OH or -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH.

Particularly preferred agents include those celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (I), according to which R is independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH, where q is a is an integer, with the proviso that at least one of R represents a methyl group and at least one of R represents a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH.

A very particularly preferably suitable cellulose is hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose sold under the trade name Tegocel ^® from Evonik example, as Tegocel ^® HPM 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder), Tegocel ^® HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, white powder), Tegocel ^® fluid HPM 50 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) and Tegocel ^® fluid HPM 4000 (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of pregelatinized hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose) is sold.

in the According to the invention preferred agents containing the celluloses with at least one structural unit of the previously defined formula (I) in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

About that In addition, it has proved to be advantageous if the inventive Agent in all its embodiments preferably one Viscosity of at most 10,000 mPa · s, preferably of a maximum of 5000 mPa · s, more preferably of maximum 2500 mPa · s (each measured at 20 ° C with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 10 rpm). Especially advantageous proves this preferred viscosity adjustment in Framework of assembly as aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam, especially as a pump foam or even more advantageous as aerosol foam. Pump and in particular aerosol foams, prepared from the compositions of the invention become stable for a long time, fine-pored and creamy foam, which doses excellently lets and strains easily and without running down in hair evenly distribute.

Farther contains the agent according to the invention additionally at least one film-forming agent for the celluloses defined above and / or setting polymer. This invention in the agent additionally contained film-forming and / or Firming polymers are by definition of the polymers with at least a structural unit of the previously defined formula (I) is different.

To the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers counts the film formation. Among film-forming polymers are such polymers to understand which while drying a continuous film on the Skin, hair or nails. such Filmbildner can in the most different cosmetic Products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, Hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes be used. Particularly preferred are those polymers which sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures to be in the inventive agent in completely dissolved form. The film-making Polymers can be synthetic or natural Be of origin.

Under Film-forming polymers are further inventively such Polymers understood that when used in 0.01 to 20 wt .-% - aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic Solution are able to transparent on the hair To deposit polymer film.

firming Polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or structure of the hair volume and the hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment products such as hair fixatives, Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and only a few fibers with each other connect.

When a test method for the firming effect of a polymer Often the so-called curl retention test is used.

There Polymers are often multifunctional, that is show several application-wise desirable effects, Numerous polymers can be found in several on the mode of action divided groups, as in the CTFA manual.

The Inventive agent preferably contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer consisting of at least one polymer of the group is selected, the is formed from nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.

The film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the inventive Agent preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight, most preferably from 2.0% by weight to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition. These quantities also apply to all in the invention Means employable subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers. If different preferred quantities below are specified, the latter are again considered to be more preferred Amounts.

• – nichtionischen Polymeren auf Basis ethylenisch ungesättigter Monomere, insbesondere aus – Homopolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons, – nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons, – Homopolymeren und nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylcaprolactams, – Copolymeren des (Meth)acrylamids, – Polyvinylalkohol, Polyvinylacetat,
• – nichtionischen Cellulosederivaten
• – Stärke und deren Derivate,
• – Chitosan und Derivaten des Chitosans,
• – kationischen Cellulosederivaten,
• – kationischen Copolymeren des 3-(C₁ bis C₆)-Alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazoliniums,
• – Homopolymeren und Copolymeren des Diallyldimethylammoniums,
• – Homopolymeren und Copolymeren enthaltend die Struktureinheit der Formel (M-1)
  
  in der R² = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkyl-, (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkenyl- oder (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppen, p = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, q eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist,
• – amphoteren Copolymeren des N-(C₆ bis C₁₀)-Alkylacrylamids,
• – amphoteren Copolymeren des N-(C₆ bis C₁₀)-Alkylmethacrylamids,
• – anionischen Polymeren, welche Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen aufweisen,
• – anionischen Polyurethanen.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are those agents which, in addition to the previously defined cellulose, contain at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which is selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed

• Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, especially homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam, copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate,
• - nonionic cellulose derivatives
• Starch and its derivatives,
• - chitosan and derivatives of chitosan,
• - cationic cellulose derivatives,
• Cationic copolymers of the 3- (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium,
• Homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium,
• Homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)
  
  wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion,
• Amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkylacrylamide,
• Amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl methacrylamide,
• Anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups,
• - anionic polyurethanes.

worin
R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
R' steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Acylgruppe,
R'' und R'''' stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₇)-Alkylgruppe oder ein Wasserstoffatom
R''' steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe oder eine (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe.Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein
R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) acyl group,
R "and R""independently represent a (C ₁ to C ₇ ) alkyl group or a hydrogen atom
R '''represents a linear or branched (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl group.

In The above formulas and all the following formulas stand for a chemical Binding marked with the * symbol for one free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.

Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are synthesized from at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, such as, for example, For example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers are selected from (C ₁ to C ₃ ) alkyl groups.

worin
R' steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₃₀)-Acylgruppe, insbesondere für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Acetylgruppe.Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units

wherein
R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein nichtionisches filmbildendes und/oder nichtionisches fixierendes Polymer auf Basis ethylenisch ungesättigter Monomere enthaltend mindestens eine der nachfolgenden Struktureinheiten
  
  worin R' steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₃₀)-Acylgruppe, insbesondere für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Acetylgruppe.

In the context of this embodiment, agents are therefore particularly preferred according to the invention, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one of the following structural units
  
  wherein R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

Furthermore, for the abovementioned embodiments of the invention, in each case those already defined apply preferred representatives of the celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra) are also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra). The viscosity of the agent according to the invention previously defined as preferred also applies as preferred (vide supra) for the particular embodiments mentioned above.

Particularly suitable are homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinyl pyrrolidone (such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE), (copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA are marketed by the firm BASF SE 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73), (terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides such as Akypomine ^® P 191 (from the company CHEM-Y), polyvinyl alcohols, for example, under the trade designations Elvanol ^® be sold by Du Pont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (such as Luviset.RTM ^® Clear from BASF SE).

In addition to the nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso SI ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg ^® grades), hydroxyethylcellulose, such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® AQUALON) and Natrosol (Hercules). If cellulose derivatives which have a strongly thickening action are used, care should again be taken in the context of a preferred embodiment as foam that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion of the agents according to the invention is observed.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein kationisches filmbildendes und/oder kationisches festigendes Polymer.

As a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention are those agents comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer.

It has particular in the context of this embodiment shown by the combination of component (a) with the cationic Polymers (b) keratin fibers, in particular human hair, surprisingly (in addition to the excellent properties regarding the manageability, hairstyle content and achieved volume) improved care Experienced.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group gebun to a constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives polymer backbone which have proved to be particularly suitable.

in der R² = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkyl-, (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkenyl- oder (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppen, p = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, q eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (M1) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugt geeignete kationische filmbildende und/oder kationische festigende Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R² steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R³, R⁴ und R⁵ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2 oder 3.

Homopolymers of the general formula (M1),

wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (M1) and non-ionic monomer units are particularly preferably suitable cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ² is a methyl group
• - R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2 or 3.

When Physiologically acceptable counterions X of the formula (M1) For example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, Methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular Chloride.

Further apply to the above embodiments of the Invention in each case the already defined preferred representatives the celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra) as also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of the celluloses with at least a structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra). The previously as preferably defined viscosity of the inventive By means of the above-mentioned embodiments applies also as preferred (vide supra).

A well-suited homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

copolymers of quaternized derivatives of the dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate and / or copolymers of quaternized derivatives of the dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylamide are considered to be particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymers.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (M1) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein kationisches filmbildendes und/oder kationisches festigendes Polymer, das mindestens ein Strukturelement der Formel (M9) und zusätzlich mindestens ein Strukturelement der Formel (M10) enthält
  
  worin R für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe steht, R', R'' und R'' unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, X steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH, A steht für eine Ethan-1,2,-diylgruppe oder eine Propan-1,3-diylgruppe, n 1 oder 3 bedeutet.

In the context of this embodiment, such agents are considered to be within the meaning of the present invention particularly preferred, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer containing at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)
  
  wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R ', R "and R" independently represent a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, X represents an oxygen atom or a group NH, A represents an ethane 1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, n is 1 or 3.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge serve all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as Chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, Phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, Triflate.

• – Copolymere aus mit Diethylsulfat quaterniertem Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, mit Vinylpyrrolidon mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11 unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^® 440, Gafquat^®734, Gafquat^®755 (jeweils Firma ISP) sowie Luviquat PQ 11 PN (Firma BASF SE),
• – Copolymere aus Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chlorid mit Vinylpyrrolidon und Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-55 unter den Handelsnamen, Styleze^® W-10, Styleze^® W-20 (Firma ISP),

im Handel erhältlich.Such compounds are for example as

• - copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 755 (both from ISP), and Luviquat under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),
• - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl chloride with Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^{®, ®} Styleze W-20 (ISP)

available in the stores.

Farther become the cationic film-forming and / or cationic festivals Polymers according to the invention particularly preferred cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives selected.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein filmbildendes und/oder festigendes Polymer ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der kationischen, quaternisierten Cellulosederivate.

In the context of this embodiment, for the purposes of the present invention, agents which are particularly preferred are those which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from the group of cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

worin
R'' für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht, und zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres kationisches und/oder nichtionisches Strukturelement aufweisen.Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M11)

wherein
R "is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally having at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein kationisches filmbildendes und/oder kationisches festigendes Polymer, die mindestens ein Strukturelement der Formel (M11)
  
  worin R'' für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht, und zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres kationisches und/oder nichtionisches Strukturelement aufweisen.

For the purposes of the present invention, agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are considered to be particularly preferred

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  in which R independently of one another represents a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, in which R ^{1 represents} a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R has a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) Alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (b) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which comprises at least one structural element of the formula (M11)
  
  wherein R "is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

to Compensation of the positive polymer charge serve all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as Chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, tetrafluoroborate, Phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, Triflate.

Further apply to the above embodiments of the Invention in each case the already defined preferred representatives the celluloses having at least one structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra) as also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of the celluloses with at least a structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra). The previously as preferably defined viscosity of the inventive By means of the above-mentioned embodiments applies also as preferred (vide supra).

Among them are vinyl pyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium-copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium copolymer (such as (with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme BASF SE)).

Further preferably usable in the agents according to the invention cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group that is quaternary at certain pHs Ammonium group and thus cationic present.

To These polymers include, for example, chitosans. chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are considered to be very particularly preferred film-forming and / or setting polymers in the sense of the present invention Invention.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein filmbildendes und/oder festigendes Polymer ausgewählt aus Chitosan und dessen Derivaten.

In the context of this embodiment, agents according to the invention are therefore very particularly preferred, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from chitosan and its derivatives.

chitosan represent biopolymers and become a group of hydrocolloids counted. Chemically, it is partial deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.

to Chitosans are produced by chitin, preferably the Shell remnants of crustaceans made as cheap raw materials in large quantities are available. The chitin is usually first by adding deproteinated by bases, by addition of mineral acids demineralized and finally by adding strong ones Bases are deacetylated, with molecular weights over one broad spectrum can be distributed. Preferably used types that have an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt .-% in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a Deacetylation degree in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3% by weight.

Next the chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers come in the According to the invention, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as z. As quaternization) or alkoxylated chitosans in question.

According to the invention preferred Agents are characterized as having as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, Hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.

Suitable chitosan (derivatives) are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / commercially 101 freely available.

The Chitosan or its derivatives are in the inventive Preferably in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of agent according to the invention.

Further apply to this embodiment of the invention the already defined preferred representatives of celluloses with at least one structural element of the formula (I) (vide supra) as also preferred. The same applies to the previously defined preferred amounts of celluloses having at least one structural element of Formula (I) (vide supra). The previously defined as preferred viscosity the agent of the invention applies to these Embodiment also as preferred (vide supra).

As in the context of the invention preferably suitable temporary cationic polymers are also sol che having at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8)

worin
n 1 oder 3 bedeutet.In this case, preference is again given to those copolymers which contain at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural unit of the formula (M10),

wherein
n is 1 or 3.

• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Di-methylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Gaffix^® VC 713 (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylcaprolactam/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Aquaflex^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• – Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymer (beispielsweise als.35–39% Festkörper in Ethanol in form des Handelsprodukts Advantage LC E mit der INCI-Bezeichnung: Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Alcohol, Lauryl Pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid-Copolymer (beispielsweise INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer unter dem Handelsnamen Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

als bevorzugte Liste zur Auswahl.Again, the group of polymers applies

• - vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ^® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)),
• - vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer (for example, INCI name: VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer under the trade name Aquaflex ^® SF-40 (ISP)),
• Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
• Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),

as a preferred list to choose from.

• (a) mindestens einer Cellulose mit mindestens einer Struktureinheit der zuvor definierten Formel (I),
• (b1) mindestens einem nichtionischen filmbildenden und/oder nichtionischen fixierenden Polymer und
• (b2) mindestens einem kationischen filmbildenden und/oder kationischen fixierenden Polymer

enthalten.In addition, it proved to be particularly advantageous if the inventive compositions a combination of

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural unit of the formula (I) defined above,
• (b1) at least one nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic fixing polymer and
• (b2) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer

contain.

For This embodiment is of course the same previously defined preferred embodiments with respect Structure or amount of cellulose with at least one structural unit of formula (I), as well as the preferred viscosity requirement the agent and the preferred suitable amounts and representatives the polymers (b1) and (b2).

The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.

• A) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Z-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (Z-I) In der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• B) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Z-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (Z-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

The latter have in addition to the cationogenic group or positively charged group at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together

• A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (ZI), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (ZI) In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (ZI) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (Z-II). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (Z-II) for the stated polymers.

suitable Starting monomers are z. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and Diethylaminoethylacrylamid, if Z is an NH group or Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate, when Z is an oxygen atom.

The a tertiary amino group-containing monomers then quaternized in a known manner, using as alkylating reagents Methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous Solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of formula (ZI) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very special one preferred monomer of the formula (Z-I).

When monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. Preference is given to acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular Acrylic acid, used.

The zwitterionic usable according to the invention Polymers become from monomers of the formulas (Z-I) and (Z-II) after per se known polymerization process. The polymerization can be either in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic Solution done. As alcohols, alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably isopropanol, used simultaneously serve as a polymerization regulator. The monomer solution can but other components are added as a regulator, z. B. Formic acid or mercaptans, such as thioethanol and thioglycolic acid. The initiation of the polymerization takes place with the aid of radical-forming Substances. For this purpose, redox systems and / or thermally disintegrating radical generator of the azo compound type, such. B. Azoisobutyronitrile, azo-bis (cyanopentanoic acid) or azo-bis (amidinopropane) dihydrochloride. When Redox systems are suitable for. B. combinations of hydrogen peroxide, Potassium or ammonium peroxodisulfate, as well as tertiary butyl hydroperoxide with sodium sulfite, sodium dithionite or hydroxylamine hydrochloride as a reduction component.

The Polymerization may be isothermal or under adiabatic conditions be carried out, depending on the concentration ratios by the released Heat of polymerization of the temperature range for the sequence of the reaction between 20 and 200 ° C vary can, and the reaction optionally under the autogenous overpressure must be performed. Preferably the reaction temperature between 20 and 100 ° C.

Of the pH during the copolymerization can be in a wide range Range vary. Advantageously, at low pH values polymerized; however, pH values above are also possible of the neutral point. After the polymerization is washed with an aqueous Base, e.g. As sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia, to a pH between 5 and 10, preferably 6 to 8, set. details Information on the polymerization process, the examples be removed.

When Such polymers have proven particularly effective in which the monomers of formula (Z-I) over the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in excess. It is therefore preferred according to the invention, such polymers to be used, consisting of monomers of the formula (Z-I) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 exist.

The amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Preferably, in amounts of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, especially preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, contain. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

If in particular strongly thickening amphoteric polymers are used should come, again, in the context of a preferred embodiment be taken to ensure that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion the agent according to the invention is maintained.

Farther may be at least as film-forming and / or setting polymers an anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer be used.

at the anionic polymers are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available.

Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked using as crosslinking a gentien preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

• – Copolymeren aus Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure (wie sie beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt Aristoflex^® A 60 mit der INCI-Bezeichnung VA/Crotonates Copolymer von der Firma CIBA in einer 60 Gew.%-igen Dispersion in Isopropanol-Wasser vermarktet werden),
• – Copolymeren aus Ethylacrylat und Methacrylsäure (wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Luviflex^® Soft mit einer Säurezahl von 84 bis 105 unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Acrylates Copolymer in einer ca. 20 bis 30 Gew.-%igen Dispersion in Wasser von der Firma BASF SE vertrieben werden),
• – Polyurethanen mit mindestens einer Carboxylgruppe (wie beispielsweise ein Copolymer aus Isophthalsäure, Adipinsäure, 1,6-Hexandiol, Neopentylglykol und Isophorondiisocyanat wie es unter dem Handelsnamen Luviset PUR mit der INCI-Bezeichung Polyurethane-1 von der Firma BASF SE vertrieben wird).

Other preferred anionic polymers are selected from the group that is formed

• - copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (as weight, for example as a commercial product Aristoflex ^® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a 60% -. Be marketed dispersion in isopropanol-water)
• - copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (such as, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ^® Soft having an acid number from 84 to 105 under the INCI designation Acrylates Copolymer in an about 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water by BASF SE to be expelled),
• - Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).

If especially strongly thickening anionic polymers are used should come, again, in the context of a preferred embodiment be taken to ensure that the aforementioned preferred viscosity criterion the agent according to the invention is maintained.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

to Intensification of the effect according to the invention preferably contain the agents according to the invention additionally at least one surfactant, wherein in principle nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants are suitable. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants can According to the invention already have emulsifying effect.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive agent preferably in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, especially preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred when the inventive Means additionally at least one nonionic surfactant contain.

In a possible embodiment of the invention However, cosmetic products can be used to increase care and Increase skin compatibility on the addition of anionic, cationic and ampholytic surfactants are dispensed with.

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein kationisches filmbildendes und/oder kationisches festigendes Polymer, (insbesondere ausgewählt aus Chitosan und dessen Derivaten) und
• (c) mindestens ein nichtionisches Tensid.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one nonionic surfactant. In this case, it is again preferable to use such agents according to the invention for achieving the object, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer, (in particular selected from chitosan and its derivatives) and
• (c) at least one nonionic surfactant.

It has particular in the context of this embodiment demonstrated that by the combination of components (a) and (b) and (c) keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, surprisingly disproportionately undergo improved care.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II)in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III),
  
  in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können. Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-NR⁸-CH₂-(CHOH)₄CH₂OH (E4-IV) Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. technischer Mischungen dieser Säuren steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - With a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),
  
  R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or technical mixtures of these acids. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

As very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they are nonionic surfactants C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and gehär ttained castor oil.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution thereby understood mixtures of homologues, which in the implementation of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrow homolog distributions are opposed obtained, for example, when hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or -alkoholate be used as catalysts. The usage of products with restricted homolog distribution may be preferred be.

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This is very preferably ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

• (a) mindestens eine Cellulose mit mindestens einem Strukturelement der Formel (I)
  
  worin R unabhängig voneinander steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH, worin R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methylgruppe, eine Ethylgruppe oder eine n-Propylgruppe steht m für eine ganze Zahl größer oder gleich Null steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte (C₁ bis C₆)-Alkylgruppe und mindestens einer der Reste R eine zuvor definierte Gruppe -CH₂-CHR¹-(O-CH₂-CHR¹-)_mOH bedeutet, n eine ganze Zahl größer Null bedeutet, und
• (b) mindestens ein kationisches filmbildendes und/oder kationisches festigendes Polymer, (insbesondere ausgewählt aus Chitosan und dessen Derivaten) und
• (c) mindestens ein nichtionisches Tensid ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 100 Mol (insbesondere 15 bis 50 Mol) Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, – Anlagerungsprodukten von 2 bis 100 Mol (insbesondere 15 bis 50 Mol) Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen. – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention of this embodiment are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)
  
  wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and
• (B) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer, (in particular selected from chitosan and its derivatives) and
• (c) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of addition products of from 2 to 100 mol (in particular from 15 to 50 mol) of ethylene oxide and / or from 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 C Atoms, - adducts of 2 to 100 moles (especially 15 to 50 moles) of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
  
  in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR¹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II)in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
  
  in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - amide ether carboxylic acids,
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

As zwitterionic surfactants such surface-active compounds are referred to in the mol carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) - or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

The Means according to the invention contain the content or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are watery, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic media with preferably at least 10 wt .-% water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, in particular those commonly used for cosmetic purposes lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as Be contained ethanol and isopropanol.

When additional co-solvents can be organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 percent by weight based on the total agent be included. Especially suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons, such as pentane, Hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble Solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.

Especially the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases flexibility when using the agent according to the invention formed polymer film. So if you want a flexible grip, preferably contain the agents according to the invention 0.01 to 30 wt .-% glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol based on the total agent.

The Agents preferably have a pH of from 2 to 11. Especially the pH range is preferably between 2 and 8. The information on the pH refer to the pH at 25 ° C for the purposes of this document, unless otherwise noted.

The agents according to the invention can continue containing the auxiliaries and additives that are commonly used be added to conventional styling agents.

When suitable auxiliaries and additives are especially additional Name care substances. As a care, for example, a Silicone oil and / or a silicone gum are used.

According to the invention suitable Silicone oils or silicone gums are especially dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane and Methylphenylpolysiloxan, and their alkoxylated, quaternized or anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear Polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, Dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (HOSiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ OH) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₃₀ linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

When Examples of such products are the following commercial products called: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ¹ R ² -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₃₀ linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as Methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. Most preferably, the viscosity is in the range between 50,000 and 200,000 cps.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ² PE-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S3-I), PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₃₀ linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose can be used as an aid for the production the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are used as adjuvants. Of course, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

If the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols as Emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, especially preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is thereby determined by the method of light scattering.

Become branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols used, it is understood that the branching larger is, as a random branch caused by impurities the respective monomers randomly arises. In the sense of the The present invention is therefore branched dimethiconols, Dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols understand that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and whole more preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree The branching is thereby from the relationship of the unbranched Monomers to the branching monomers, that is the Amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes, determined. According to the invention both low-branched and hyperbranched dimethiconols, Dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are very particularly preferred be.

Especially suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are grouped under the INCI name Amodimethicone are. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the inventive means in addition contain at least one amino-functional silicone. Below are Silicones which contain at least one, optionally substituted, Have amino group.

Such silicones may, for. By the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2)} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2)} ) _y M (S4-I) wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of the general formula -R ¹ Z wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "A" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer from 1 to 50. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH (CH ₂ ) _zz , in which both z and zz independently of one another represent an integer from 1 to 50, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is particularly preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is - (CH ₂ ) _z NX ¹ X ² or -NX ¹ X ² , wherein each of X ¹ and X ² is independently selected from hydrogen and a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms.

Most preferably, Q is a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and more preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G st -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂ – -N⁺(R'')₃A^– – -N⁺H(R'')₂A^– – -N⁺H₂(R'')A^– – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A^– ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to the formula (S4-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (S4-II), where:

• - G st -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from - -N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ - -N ⁺ (R ") ₃ A ^- - - N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^- - -N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- - -N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , where each R '' represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A ^{- represents} an anion, which is preferably is selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to the formula (S4-III)

wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particular preference is furthermore given to amino-functional silicones of the formula (S4-IV)

wherein R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available, for example, as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 939 or Dow Corning Q2-8220 or Wacker Belsil ADM 1100th

Preferably Such amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per Grams of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

The Means contain the silicones preferably in amounts of 0.01 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy.

When For example, the remedy of another class of compound may be the means at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives contain.

protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, Polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. count. Further examples for compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of Protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, Preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and completely more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Especially interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. Under Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread Fibroin. As a cement substance sericin keeps this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28 % By weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1 % By weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt .-% hydroxy amino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37 Wt%), aspartate (Asp, 26 wt%), glycine (Gly, 17 wt%), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr).

The water-insoluble fibroin is associated with scleroproteins to count long-chain molecular structure. The main ingredients of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another essential structural feature of fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. So it is not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known as raw materials for use in cosmetic products each by itself. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are sold especially as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Silk.

The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The effect of a fibroin derivative, for example, in the DE 31 39 438 A1 described as caring and conditioning for the hair. According to DE 102 40 757 A1 Moreover, a simultaneous use of sericin and fibroin or their derivatives and / or hydrolyzates can achieve a synergistic increase in the positive effects of the silk proteins and their derivatives.

Preference is therefore in the inventive agent as a silk protein hydrolyzate an active ingredient complex (A) consisting of the active ingredient (A1) selected from sericin, sericin hydrolysates and / or their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and an active ingredient (A2) selected from fibroin, and / or fibroin hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof ,

Of the Active Complex (A) significantly improves synergistically the previously described essential inner and outer Structural features and strength as well as elasticity of human hair.

• – natives Sericin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Sericin, wie beispielsweise Handelsprodukte mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, oder Hydrolyzed Silk,
• – eine Mischung aus den Aminosäuren Serin, Aspartat und Glycin und/oder deren Methyl-, Propyl-, iso-Propyl-, Butyl-, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Serin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 20 bis 60 Gew.-%, das Aspartat und/oder dessen Derivate zu 10–40 Gew.-% und das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 5 bis 30 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, dass sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

As active ingredients (A1) can be used in the active ingredient complex (A):

• - native sericin,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
• - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this Mix the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt .-%, the aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt .-% and the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt .-% are included with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

• – natives, in eine lösliche Form überführtes Fibroin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Fibroin, besonders teilhydrolisiertes Fibroin, welches als Hauptbestandteil die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly enthält,
• – die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• – eine Mischung der Aminosäuren Glycin, Alanin und Tyrosin und/oder deren Methyl-, Propyl-, iso-Propyl-, Butyl-, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate in Mengen von 20–60 Gew.-%, das Alanin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 10–40 Gew,-% und das Tyrosin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 0 bis 25 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, dass sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

As active ingredients (A2) can be used in the active ingredient complex (A):

• Native fibroin converted into a soluble form,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• - A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, being in this mixture the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt .-%, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt% and the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .-% with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

Especially good nourishing properties can be achieved if one of the two active ingredient components of the active substance complex (A) used in the native or possibly solubilized form becomes. It is also possible to have a mixture of several active ingredients (A1) and / or (A2).

It may be preferred that the two active compounds (A1) and (A2) in Ratio from 10:90 to 70:30, especially 15:85 to 50:50 and especially 20:80 to 40:60, based on their respective Contents of active substance in the inventive Funds are used.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates of sericin and fibroin and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives which can be used according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in US Pat "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk. As typical examples of the anionic protein hydro lysates and derivatives are those under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products mentioned: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk. Finally, typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention are the products available commercially under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk.

The Effect of the active substance complex (A) can be achieved by the addition of fatty substances be further increased. By fatty substances are meant fatty acids, Fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion can exist, and natural and synthetic understand cosmetic oil components.

Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, eg. As soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Hydrosog ^® (Croda), Hydrolupin ^® (Croda) , hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures obtained otherwise may optionally be used instead. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course The teaching of the invention includes all isomers Forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates use.

The Protein hydrolysates are in the inventive For example, in concentrations of 0.01 wt .-% up to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% up to 15 wt .-% and completely more preferably in amounts of from 0.05% to 5% by weight, respectively based on the entire application preparation included.

When Nursing agent may continue to use the agent according to the invention at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of these derivatives.

there are according to the invention such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, usually the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie kationische Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal). Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₆-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01–5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Anwendungszubereitung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,05–1 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). The compounds of the vitamin B ₆ type mentioned are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-5% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire application preparation used. The use in the form of Palmitic acid ester, which can glucosides or phosphates be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols can also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation, contain.

vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is commonly used essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total Application preparation included.

Prefers the agents according to the invention contain vitamins, Provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H.

panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

All D-panthenol, if appropriate, is particularly preferred as a care substance in combination with at least one of the above-mentioned silicone derivatives used.

As also the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol increases the addition of panthenol the flexibility of the application the polymer film formed according to the invention. So if a particularly flexible hold desired the agents according to the invention instead of or in addition to contain glycerol and / or propylene glycol panthenol. In a preferred embodiment contain the inventive Panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, each based on the entire means.

When Care material can the invention Means further contain at least one plant extract.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves to produce the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts preferred according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are described in US Pat Page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the German Association of Personal Care and Detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt , starting table are listed.

According to the invention especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, Witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root prefers.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hop chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

All particularly suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, Aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and Melon.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction Extracting agent or extractant mixture.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive Mixtures of several, especially two, different Use plant extracts.

When Nursing material is also suitable for a range of carboxylic acids.

Advantageous In the context of the invention, in particular short-chain Be carboxylic acids. Under short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids which is saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or may be heterocyclic and a molecular weight smaller than 750. Preferred for the purposes of the invention saturated or unsaturated straight chain or branched carboxylic acids with one chain length from 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, most preferably are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention include, for example, C ₁ -C ₈ -alkyl, C ₂ -C ₈ -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C ₂ -C ₈ -hydroxyalkyl, C ₂ -C ₈ hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C ₂ -C ₈ aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α-position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, Isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6 , 6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by verb of the general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) are known in the literature. This is for example US-A 3,753,968 to take a manufacturing process.

The Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be, for example by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization are prepared. Usually one becomes of a polyunsaturated fatty acid go out as dicarboxylic acid component. Preferably, the accessible from natural fats and oils Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component in particular acrylic acid, but also z. For example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Usually arise in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, in which a Component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can according to the invention as well as the pure compounds are used.

Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to the formula (N-I) are also those dicarboxylic acids that are different from the Compounds according to formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 Differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from these compounds formally by addition of a molecule Water are formed on the double bond of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the short-chain carboxylic acids previously exemplified even their physiologically compatible Salts are used according to the invention. Examples for such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present application also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. Especially preferred may be in the frame of the invention, however, with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine Acids are used. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is inventively preferred to use 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof as the carboxylic acid. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen carries one to three C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, and particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Furthermore, it is inventively preferred to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy-di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids. It has been found that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids and the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as Also polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters may be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. As the alcohol component of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for. As fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trademark Cosmacol ^® from EniChem Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

When The care substance is still suitable for ectoin or ectoine derivatives, allantoin, Taurine and / or bisabolol.

und/oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze und/oder eine isomere oder stereoisomere Form verstanden, wobei
R¹⁰ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₄-Alkylrest oder einen C₂–C₄-Hydroxyalkylrest,
R¹¹ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Gruppierung-COOR¹⁴ oder eine Gruppierung-CO(NH)R¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁-C₄-Alkylrest, einen Aminosäurerest, einen Dipeptid- oder einen Tripeptidrest stehen kann,
R¹² und R¹³ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁-C₄-Alkylrest oder eine Hydroxygruppe mit der Maßgabe, dass nicht beide Reste gleichzeitig für eine Hydroxygruppe stehen dürfen, und
n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3.According to the invention, the term "ectoine and ectoine derivatives" means compounds of the formula (IV)

and / or their physiologically acceptable salts and / or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form, wherein
R ¹⁰ represents a hydrogen atom, a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical,
R ¹¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a grouping-COOR ¹⁴ or a grouping-CO (NH) R ¹⁴ , wherein R ^{14 may represent} a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical .
R ¹² and R ¹³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical or a hydroxy group, with the proviso that both radicals may not simultaneously be a hydroxy group, and
n stands for an integer from 1 to 3.

Suitable physiologically tolerable salts of the general compounds of the formula (IVa) or (IVb) are, for example, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, triethylamine or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts and those resulting from the reaction of compounds according to the formula (IVa) or (IVb) with inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted (for example by one or more hydroxy groups) C ₁ -C ₄ mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and sulfonic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid and p-toluenesulfonic acid. Examples of particularly preferred physiologically acceptable salts are the Na, K, Mg and Ca and ammonium salts of the compounds of the formula (IVa) or (IVb), and the salts which are obtained by reacting compounds of the formula (IVa ) or (IVb) with hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, citric acid and benzoic acid.

Under isomeric or stereoisomeric forms of the compounds of the formula (IVa) or (IVb) are inventively all occurring optical isomers, diastereomers, racemates, zwitterions, cations or Mixtures thereof understood.

The term amino acid, the stereoisomeric forms, eg. As D and L forms, the following compounds:
Asparagine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, β-alanine, γ-aminobutyrate, N _ε -acetyllysine, N _δ -acetylornitin, N _γ -acetyldiaminobutyrate, N _α -acetyldiaminobutyrate, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, Threonine and tyrosine.

L-amino acids are preferred. Amino acid residues are derived from the corresponding amino acids. The following amino acid residues are preferred:
Gly, Ala, Ser, Thr, Val, β-Ala, γ-aminobutyrate, Asp, Glu, Asn, Aln, N _ε -Acetyllysin, N _δ -Acetylornithin, N _γ -Acetyldiaminobutyrat, N _α -Acetyldiaminobutyrat.

The short notation of the amino acids was carried out according to the usual notation. The di- or tripeptide radicals are acid amides in their chemical nature and decompose on hydrolysis in 2 or 3 amino acids. The amino acids in the di- or tripeptide moiety are linked together by amide bonds.

With regard to the preparation of the di- and tripeptide radicals is expressly to the EP 0 671 161 A1 the company Marbert referenced. Also examples of di- and tripeptide residues are the disclosure of EP 0 671 161 A1 refer to.

Examples of C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups in the compounds of the formula (IV) are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl. Preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl, methyl is a particularly preferred alkyl group. Preferred C ₂ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups are the groups 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl; 2-hydroxyethyl is a particularly preferred hydroxyalkyl group.

The agents according to the invention contain these care substances preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 2, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.

Also Mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as a care substance in the agents are used.

It Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose used become. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, such compounds are preferred containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms.

suitable Pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, Lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, Talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particularly preferred Glucose is used in both the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or is suitable as a racemate.

Farther can also derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, like the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), Sugar alcohols and glycosides, used according to the invention become. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, Glucuronic acid, sugar acidity, mannosaccharic acid and the mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, Mannitol and Dulcite. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.

There the mono- or oligosaccharides used usually extracted from natural resources such as starch usually they have the corresponding commodities Configurations (eg D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The Mono- or oligosaccharides are in the inventive Agents preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, in particular preferably 1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation included.

The Agent may further contain at least one lipid as a conditioner.

Lipids which are suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and the substances known by the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® .

The agents according to the invention contain the lipids preferably in amounts of 0.01-10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1-5 Wt .-%, based on the total application preparation.

Farther are suitable as a care substance oil body.

• – pflanzliche öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂–C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z. B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, worunter Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische zu verstehen sind. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• - Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers with insge together with between 12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n -Hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether , Di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, obtained in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The Use of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the inventive compositions is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1-15 Wt .-%.

The agent may further contain an enzyme as a conditioner. Particularly preferred enzymes according to the invention are selected from a group which is formed from proteases, lipases, transglutaminase, Oxidases and peroxidases.

Also Pearl extracts are suitable as a conditioner.

beads shellfish are essentially inorganic and organic Calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be Easily gain from cultivated mussels. The cultivation The shells can be fresh in as well done in seawater. This can affect the ingredients of Impact beads. According to the invention is preferred a pearl extract, which cultured in marine or salt water Shells came. The pearls consist to a large extent from aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Furthermore, in pearls are still Magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds as well Contain phosphates.

To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine, aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the pearl extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine. Furthermore, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending on the choice of extractant, a more or less large proportion of minerals and trace elements in the extract is found again. A preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls. Examples of pearl extracts usable according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

The Bead extracts described above are preferably in an amount from at least 0.01 up to 20 wt .-%. To be favoured Amounts of the extract from 0.01 to 10% by weight, most preferably Quantities of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total application preparation used.

Even though each of the aforementioned care substances already on its own A satisfactory result results are within the scope of the present Invention also includes all embodiments in which the agent contains several care substances also from different groups.

By Adding a UV filter can both the agent itself, as well as the treated fibers from harmful influences protected by UV radiation. Preferably, therefore at least one UV filter was added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are subject in terms of their structure and their physical Features no general restrictions. Much more All UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable Absorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

The According to the invention preferred UV filter can for example, be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phe nylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and their salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) (Methoxydibenzoylmethane butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3- ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® e 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2 -ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan ^® AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb ^® S 5 ), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylid ene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi ) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2, 4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o- aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilates ; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2 , 2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-melhyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept -1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene ) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo 2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-o xoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Farther was found to be structurally similar to UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the context of the teaching of the invention, the higher Effect against such water-soluble compounds which differs from it by one or more additional distinguish ionic groups. As water insoluble in the context of the invention, those UV filters to be understood at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, especially not to more than 0.1 wt .-%, dissolve in water. Furthermore, these should Compounds in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble. The use of water-insoluble UV filter can therefore be preferred according to the invention be.

According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

Of the Structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing radiation Group. This group can in principle be distinguished from the known, in the Cosmetic area usable, derived above UV filters, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary Amino function, is replaced.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide derive, are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filters in both the UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range can lie. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above of 20 000, lies.

Of the Structural part Q preferably contains as a cationic group a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the positive represents charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom form a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, the as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms ,

physiological Compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, Tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filter with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course the teaching according to the invention also includes the use a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filters with at least one UV filter with a cationic Group preferred.

The UV filters are usually in amounts of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, based on the total application preparation included. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment contains the inventive Means further one or more substantive dyes. This allows that when using the agent the treated Keratin fiber is not only temporarily structured but is dyed at the same time. This can be especially true be desirable if only a temporary staining for example, with eye-catching fashion colors is desired, by simply washing back out of the keratin fiber can be removed.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) - aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-ni trophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4 -naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

• (a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatischen Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie
• (c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die einen Heterocyclus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908 , auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 11 genannt werden.

Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

• (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
• (C) direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as described for example in the EP-A2-998 908 to which reference is made at this point, are called in the claims 6 to 11.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:

The Compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also available under the terms Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive Dyes of group (c).

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The Composition according to the invention according to this Embodiment contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the entire means.

Furthermore, the compositions of the invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes, such as red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black Tea, Buckthorn bark, Sage, Bluewood, Madder root, Catechu, Sedre and Alkana root are included.

It It is not necessary that the substantive dyes each represent uniform connections. Rather, in the agents according to the invention, due to the Production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts may contain other components, as far as these do not affect the styling result adversely or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, are excluded have to.

The Means can continue in addition to the components mentioned all active substances, additives known to and auxiliaries.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit, vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol, und gegebenenfalls vernetzte Polyacrylate,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise übliche Säuren, insbesondere Genusssäuren, und Basen,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Konservierungsmittel,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• Substances for adjusting the pH, for example customary acids, in particular edible acids, and bases,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• Preservatives,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

In terms of additional optional components as well as the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art Referred to known relevant manuals.

The Formulation of the compositions of the invention can in all forms usual for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions that act as hair tonic or pump or aerosol spray can be applied to the hair, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming Solutions or other preparations intended for Application on the hair are suitable.

hair creams and hair gels usually contain structurants and / or thickening Polymers that serve the desired products To give consistency. Structural and / or thickening polymers are typically in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire product. Amounts of from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

Preferably the agents according to the invention are used as pump spray, Aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam, particularly preferred as pump foam or aerosol foam in particular.

For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, either an additionally filled with a propellant pressurized gas container ("aerosol container") or a Nichtaerosolbehäl represents ter.

The Gas cylinder, with the help of a product through the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve is defined by definition as "aerosol container". As a "non-aerosol container" is in reverse to Aerosol definition defines a container under normal pressure, with the help of a product by mechanical action through a pumping system is distributed.

Especially the agents according to the invention are preferred as Aerosol hair foam made up. The invention Means therefore preferably additionally contains at least a propellant.

Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, said alkanes, Mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes used with dimethyl ether as the only blowing agent. The invention but also explicitly includes the use of propellants the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the Fluorocarbons.

about the ratio of blowing agent to the rest Components of the preparations can be used with a given spray device the sizes of the aerosol droplets or the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution to adjust.

The The amount of propellant used varies depending on from the concrete composition of the product, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional sprayers aerosol foam products contain the blowing agent preferably in amounts from 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Quantities of From 2 to 30% by weight, especially from 3 to 15% by weight, are especially prefers. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger ones Amounts of propellant. The propellant is preferred in this Case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total Product, used. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular of 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

• – mindestens ein Vorratsbehältnis, enthaltend das erfindungsgemäße Mittel,
• – ein Ventil, welches am Deckel (Cup) des Vorratsbehältnisses befestig ist,
• – gegebenenfalls ein Tauchrohr, welches zur Innenseites des Vorratsbehältnisses weist und mit dem Ventil verbunden ist und
• – einen Schaft, welcher ausserhalb des Voratsbehältnisses weist und mit dem Ventil verbunden ist.

Preferably comprise suitable aerosol containers

• At least one storage container containing the agent according to the invention,
• A valve which is fastened to the lid (cup) of the storage container,
• - Where appropriate, a dip tube, which faces the Innenseites of the storage container and is connected to the valve and
• - A shaft, which has outside the Voratsbehältnisses and is connected to the valve.

The Reservoir of the aerosol containers, in which the agents according to the invention as aerosol foam or aerosol spray are preformed, are preferred Made of aluminum, tinplate, glass or polyvinyl chloride, in particular made of aluminium.

The Inner side of the aerosol container, which with the inventive means in contact, is again preferred with an internal protection Mistake. Inner protective lacquers, for example, are particularly suitable for this purpose Epoxyphenol paints, as described for example by the company Hoba (in particular Varnish type 7940), nylon, microflex.

The Valves of the aerosol containers are preferably made of aluminum, Tinplate or stainless steel (especially V2A steel or V4A steel) made of aluminum, the most preferred material of the Represents valves. In turn, the valves can in particular with the aforementioned inner protective materials, in particular on the Inside, with the agent of the invention be in contact, be provided.

in the Within the scope of an aerosol foam applicator, it is preferred according to the invention to when the valve has a stem which is movable in the Valve is stored. The shaft is of cylindrical shape The shaft again preferably has an internal diameter of 1.0 to 3.0 mm, in particular from 1.7 to 2.5 mm.

As part of an aerosol foam applicator, the valve may have a dip tube attached to the valve. The dip tube in turn preferably has an inner diameter of 1.0 to 3.0 mm, in particular from 1.7 to 2.5 mm.

Especially suitable for foam applications are aerosol containers, which include such valves as product 522983 PV10697, product 541100 PV11394 or product 125819 PV10500 from Pecision (German Precision valve GmbH) are commercially available.

The Aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. In general, all components of the respective agent with Exception of the propellant in a suitable pressure-resistant container filled. This is then closed with a valve. about Conventional techniques will eventually become the desired ones Amount of propellant filled.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

A preferred embodiment of the invention Means are therefore aerosol foams containing the above described inventive agent and at least a propellant.

preferred agent and propellant of the aerosol hair foam according to the invention, as well as the respective amounts of blowing agent correspond to the already Executed above.

One second object of the invention is the use of the invention Means for temporary deformation of hair and / or for Hair Care.

The agents and products of this invention Contain agents, in particular aerosol hair foams, draw It is characterized in particular by the fact that they treat treated hair very much give strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair stays remains flexible. If the agent is formulated as hair foam, forms a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam, which is evenly and without dripping on the hair leaves.

One The third subject of the invention is a method of treatment keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein below Use of a dispenser means according to the first Invention object is foamed to a foam and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers becomes.

The The following examples are intended to form the subject of the present invention explain without limiting it in any way.

Examples

The The following quantities are understood - as far as nothing other noted - in weight percent.

1.0 recipes

• ¹ 25 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz an Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (INCI-Bezeichnung: Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, stabile Suspension von Partikeln vorgequollener Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose) (Evonik)
• ² 3-Methyl-1-vinylimidazoliumchlorid-Vinylpyrrolidon-Copolymerisat (30:70) (38–42% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)
• ³ Vinylpyrrolidon-Methacrylamid-Vinylimidazol-Vinylimidazoliummethosulfat-Copolymerisat (55:29:10:6) (19–21% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-68) (BASF)
• ⁴ Copolymer aus Ethylacrylat und Methacrylsäure, 30% Dispersion in Wasser (INCI-Bezeichnung: Acrylates Copolymer) (BASF)
• ⁵ INCI-Bezeichnung: Chitosan PCA, ca. 77 bis 87 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz (Amerchol)
• ⁶ deacetyliertes Chitin (INCI-Bezeichnung: Chitosan) (Cognis)
• ⁷ quaterniertes Cellulose-Derivat (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)
• ⁸ Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Vinylpyrrolidon-Copolymer, quaterniert mit Diethylsulfat (ca. 19% Festkörper in Wasser; INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)
• ⁹ Copolymerisat aus Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat (40:60) (50 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz in Wasser, INCI-Bezeichnung: VP/VA Copolymer) (BASF)
• ¹⁰ Copolymerisat aus 2,5-Furandione mit 2-Methyl-1-propen, ethyl ester, Reaktionsprodukte mit N,N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine und Polyethylen-polypropylenglycol 2-aminopropyl methyl ether (Copolymerisat in Form eines imidiertem Poly(isobutylen-co-maleinäureanhydrid-polymers mit der CAS.Nummer: 497926-97-3) (ca. 30 gew.-% Aktivsubstanz, INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyimide-1) (ISP)
• ¹¹ mit 25 Einheiten Ethylenoxid ethoxylierter C₁₆-, C₁₈-Fettalkohol INCI-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth-25) (BASF)

The inventive styling agents A to J were prepared according to the following table. raw materials A B C D e F G H I J Tegocel fluid HPM 50 ¹ 2.0 1.5 2.0 1.0 2.0 0.15 2.2 1.8 2.0 1.7 Luviquat FC 370 ² - - - 5.0 - - - - - - Luviquat Supreme ³ - - - - - - 9.0 - - - Luviflex Soft ⁴ - - - - - - - - - 8.0 Kytamer PC ⁵ - - - - - - - - 0.7 - Hydagen HCMF ⁶ - - 0.7 - - - - - - - Celquat 200 ⁷ - - - - - 0.3 1.0 - - - Gafquat 755 ⁸ - 10.0 - - 5.0 - - - - - Luviskol 64 W ⁹ 10.0 - - 5.0 7.5 10.0 - - - - Aquaflex XL-30 ¹⁰ - - - - - - - 4.0 - - Cremophor A 25 ¹¹ 0.2 0.1 0.15 0.1 0.2 0.2 - - 0.15 0.1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil ¹² - - - - - - 0.3 - - - water ← ad 100 →

• ¹ 25% by weight of active substance on hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, stable suspension of particles of preswollen hydroxypropyl methylcellulose) (Evonik)
• ² 3-Methyl-1-vinylimidazolium chloride-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (30:70) (38-42% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)
• ³ Vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamide-vinylimidazole-vinylimidazolium methosulfate copolymer (55: 29: 10: 6) (19-21% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-68) (BASF)
• ⁴ Copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid, 30% dispersion in water (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) (BASF)
• ⁵ INCI name: Chitosan PCA, about 77 to 87% by weight of active substance (Amerchol)
• ⁶ deacetylated chitin (INCI name: chitosan) (Cognis)
• ⁷ quaternized cellulose derivative (INCI name: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)
• ⁸ Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (about 19% solids in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)
• ⁹ Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (40:60) (50% by weight of active substance in water, INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (BASF)
• ¹⁰ Copolymer of 2,5-furandione with 2-methyl-1-propene, ethyl ester, reaction products with N, N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine and polyethylene-polypropylene glycol 2-aminopropyl methyl ether (copolymer in the form of an imidated poly ( isobutylene-co-maleic anhydride polymer having the CAS number: 497926-97-3) (about 30% by weight of active substance, INCI name: polyimide-1) (ISP)
• ¹¹ with 25 units of ethylene oxide ethoxylated C ₁₆ -, C ₁₈ -fatty alcohol INCI name: Ceteareth-25) (BASF)

The Formulations A to D were each in an aerosol container filled, the following technical parameter is fulfilled: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 the company Pecision (German Precision Valve GmbH).

The Formulations E to G were each placed in an aerosol container filled, the following technical parameter is fulfilled: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 125819 PV10500 the company Pecision (German Precision Valve GmbH).

The Formulations H to J were each in an aerosol container filled, the following technical parameter is fulfilled: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 541100 PV11394 the company Pecision (German Precision Valve GmbH).

each Formulations A to J were each on a subject on the Hair tested. For this purpose, the aerosol can became a sufficient Lot of foam is given to the palm and into the hair massaged. The hair was then styled and in Brought form. The resulting hairstyle had a perfect Stop and the hair was cared for.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 19738866 [0100]
• - DE 19736906 [0105]
• - DE 3139438 A1 [0151]
• DE 10240757 A1 [0151]
• US 3753968 A [0190]
• EP 0671161 A1 [0204, 0204]
• DE 19756454 [0217]
• - EP 998908 A2 [0245]

Cited non-patent literature

• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0158]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0158]
• - Page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the German Association of Personal Care and Detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt [0179]

Claims (14)

Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier (a) at least one cellulose having at least one structural element of the formula (I)

wherein R is independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, wherein R ^{1 is} a hydrogen atom, a Methyl, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group m is an integer greater than or equal to zero, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R is a previously defined (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl group and at least one of the radicals R a previously defined group -CH ₂ -CHR ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CHR ¹ -) _m OH, n is an integer greater than zero, and (b) at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that in formula (I) R is independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an isopropyl group, a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p -OH, wherein p is an integer greater than or equal to zero, or a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH, where q is an integer greater than or equal to zero, bear, with Provided that at least one of the radicals R is a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group or an isopropyl group and at least one of the radicals R is a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p -OH or -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that in formula (I) R is independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH, wherein q is a is greater than or equal to zero, provided that at least one of R represents a methyl group and at least one of R represents a group -CH ₂ CHMe- (O-CH ₂ CHMe) _q -OH. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the celluloses with at least one Structural unit of the formula (I) in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition, containing. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it has a viscosity of at most 10,000 mPa · s, preferably of at most 5000 mPa · s, especially preferably of not more than 2500 mPa · s (in each case measured at 20 ° C with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle 5, 10 rpm). Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the film-forming and / or festigendes Polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from nonionic polymers, cationic Polymers, amphoteric polymers and anionic polymers. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the film-forming and / or setting polymer is selected from at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of - nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, - nonionic cellulose derivatives, - starch and their Derivatives, - chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, - cationic cellulose derivatives, Cationic copolymers of 3- (C ₁ to C ₆ ) -alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium, homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)

wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, - amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkylacrylamide, Amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ -C ₁₀ ) -alkyl methacrylamide, -anionic polymers which contain carboxylate and / or sulphonate groups, -anionic polyurethanes. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the film-forming and / or festifying Polymers in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent, are included. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that additionally at least one Surfactant, in particular at least one nonionic surfactant are. Agent according to claim 9, characterized that surfactants in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the agent, are included. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one amino-functional Contains silicone. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in the form of a pump foam or aerosol foam is present. Use of an agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 12 for temporary deformation hair and / or hair care. Method of treating keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, wherein using a dispenser an agent according to at least one of the claims 1 to 12 is foamed to a foam and the resulting Foam is applied to the keratinous fibers.