EP2611503A2

EP2611503A2 - Products for keratin fibers, containing at least one special cationic polymer a having vinylimidazole structural units and at least one special alkoxylated cationic surfactant

Info

Publication number: EP2611503A2
Application number: EP10787466.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Burkhard Müller; Matthias Schweinsberg
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-12-29
Filing date: 2010-12-08
Publication date: 2013-07-10
Also published as: US20120263669A1; DE102009055354A1; WO2011080032A3; WO2011080032A2

Abstract

Products for treating keratin fibers, especially human hair, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, (a) at least one cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (I), at least one structural unit of formula (II) and at least one structural unit of formula (III), and (b) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (IV), wherein x and y independently are an integer greater than 0, R represents a (C₈ to C₂₀) alkyl group or a (C₈ to C₂₀) alkenyl group, R' is a group *-(CH₂CH₂O)_zH wherein z is an integer greater than 0, a (C₈ to C₂₀) alkyl group or a (C₈ to C₂₀) alkenyl group, and X^- represents a physiologically acceptable anion, are mild and can be used especially as hair care products, especially in the form of aerosol hairspray or aerosol hair mousse having excellent styling properties.

Description

"Agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one specific cationic polymer with vinylimidazole structural units and at least one specific alkoxylated cationic surfactant"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions comprising a combination of at least one specific cationic polymer having vinylimidazole structural units with at least one specific alkoxylated cationic surfactant, the use of said temporary deformation and / or care compositions of keratin fibers and aerosol hair sprays / foams based on said compositions.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other components of the styling can be given by means of. In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable for all hair types and mild to hair and skin.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.

Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of strong hold on the one hand and simple, uniform application to the keratinous fibers on the other.

Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of retention or by a high care effect, skin mild and in particular excellent handling during the application has the keratin-containing fibers.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by a combination of a specific cationic polymer with a specific alkoxylated cationic surfactant. The compositions achieved with this combination even have - if they are formulated as a hair foam - particularly good foam parameters.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (III),

and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (IV)

R '

+

RN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H

(IV)

wherein

x and y are independently an integer greater than 0,

R is a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkenyl group,

R 'is a group * - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z H wherein z is an integer greater than 0, a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkenyl group,

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol ^{* stands} for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge in the inventive agent is at least one physiologically acceptable anion, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Examples of (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl), docosyl ( behenyl). Examples of (C ₈ to C ₂₀ ) alkenyl groups according to the invention are oleyl, linolyl, linolenyl.

In the cationic polymer (a), the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) may be randomly distributed or in the form of polymeric or oligomeric blocks, in particular of blocks of poly [diallyldimethylammonium] units (in particular poly [ diallyldimethyl-ammonium chloride] units) and blocks of poly [N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazole] units. The blocks of poly [N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazole] units consist of structural units of the above formula (I) and the above formula (II), which are randomly distributed within said block.

It is preferred according to the invention if the polymer (a) has an average molecular weight M _w (weight average) of 50,000 to 250,000 g / mol, in particular 75,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

Such a cationic polymer (a) thus comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (block-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (block-2)

in which

m and p is an integer greater than 0,

the building blocks within the structural unit of the formula (block-1) are statistically distributed and n is an integer greater than 1, in particular greater than 10.

The cationic polymer (a) is preferably in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, all particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

A preferred cationic polymer (a) is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylimidazole and a diallyldimethylammonium compound (especially diallyldimethylammonium chloride). Such copolymers are known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-87 and are sold, for example, under the trade name Luviquat Sensation in the form of an aqueous solution with 27.5 wt.% Of active ingredient from BASF SE. It is inventively preferred if the compositions of the invention contain at least one polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium-87.

In addition to said cationic polymer (a), the composition according to the invention necessarily contains at least one cationic surfactant (b) according to formula (IV) above.

Said cationic surfactant having the formula (IV) is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight. %, most preferably from 0.2 wt .-% to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

It is inventively preferred if the cationic surfactant of the formula (IV) has a molecular weight of 550 to 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably from 600 to 1000 g / mol.

The radical R according to formula (IV) is preferably dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl or octadecyl.

It is preferred according to the invention if R 'according to formula (IV) is a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z H, where z is an integer greater than 0.

X ^" according to formula (IV) is preferably chloride, phosphate or dihydrogen phosphate.

In addition, it has turned out to be preferred if, according to formula (IV), x and y (and if R 'is the group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z H also z) independently of one another are selected from an integer from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the sum of x and y according to formula (IV) (or if R 'is a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z ll, the sum of x and y and z,) stands for a number between 3 and 20, in particular for a number between 5 and 15.

A particularly preferred cationic surfactant has the formula (IVa) (IVa)

wherein

x and y and z are independently an integer greater than 0 and the sum of (x + y + z) represents a number between 3 and 20, in particular between 5 and 15,

R is a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkenyl group,

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

A particularly preferred cationic surfactant is the tris (oligooxyethyl) alkylammonium dihydrogen phosphate salt with a molecular weight of 780 g / mol, the strength with the INCI designation Quaternium-52, for example, under the trade name Dehyquart ^® SP than 50 wt .-% aqueous Solution sold by the company Cognis.

A very particularly preferred agent according to the invention for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) Polyquaternium-87 and

(b) Quaternium-52.

Similarly, the above-mentioned preferred embodiments, in particular the quantities, are also mutatis mutandis preferred for this embodiment.

The compositions according to the invention may optionally additionally contain at least a consolidating polymer. These additional polymers are different from the cationic polymer (a). The optionally added setting polymers are preferably cationic and / or nonionic.

Preferred agents for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (IVa)

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z H

RN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

X

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _v H

(IVa)

wherein

x and y and z are independently an integer greater than 0 and the sum of (x + y + z) is a number between 3 and 20, in particular between 5 and 15, R is a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkenyl group,

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion

and

(c) at least one (especially cationic and / or nonionic) setting polymer.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

In addition, the composition of the invention may contain at least one setting cationic polymer. The additional strengthening cationic polymers have at least one structural unit containing at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom. Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are usually prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents such as methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide. Depending on the tertiary amine used, the following groups are known in particular: alkylammonium compounds, alkenylammonium compounds, imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds.

Preferred agents in the context of this embodiment comprise the film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10.0 Wt .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

The cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

In general, such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the embodiment which carries more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.

Of these, among the cationic cellulose derivatives are those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

Also suitable are those cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (V)

wherein

R and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

A and A ² are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or

Butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (VI) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Suitable compounds are, for example, as

Copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, with N-vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 1 1 PN (BASF SE) .

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride and dimethylaminopropyl with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^®, ^® Styleze W-20 (ISP Company), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride, N-vinylcaprolactam and Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid with the INCI name Polyquaternium-69 under the trade name Aquastyle ^® 300 (ISP), commercially available.

and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (IVa)

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z H

RN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

X

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _v H

(IVa)

wherein

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion

and

(c) at least one cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) and, if appropriate, at least one structural unit of the formula (V)

wherein

R and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, A and A ² independently of one another represent a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

In the context of the embodiment, particularly preferably usable film-forming and / or setting polymers selected from cationic polymers which contain at least one structural unit which have a permanently cationized nitrogen atom are also those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula ( M1)

wherein

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group,

and additionally have at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge, the above applies.

In the context of this embodiment, it is again preferred according to the invention if at least one copolymer (c1) is present in the inventive cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1), additionally contains a structural element of the formula (I) includes

wherein

R is a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1) and 70 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (I).

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1) and (I) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c1) are exclusive from structural units of the formula (M1) with R "= methyl and (I) and can be represented by the general formula (polyl)

(Polyl)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M1) and of the formula (I) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) used a chloride ion, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (polyl) is a methosulfate used, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention of this embodiment contain a copolymer (c1), in particular of the formula (polyl), which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c1) has a molecular weight of 50 to 400 kDa, preferably 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably 150 to 250 kDa and in particular 190 to 210 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (VII) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention of this embodiment are thus characterized by the fact that they consolidate as cationic film-forming and / or cationic Polymer at least one copolymer (c2) containing at least one structural unit of formula (M1 -a) and at least structural unit of formula (I) and at least structural unit of formula (VII)

Here, too, it is particularly preferred in the context of this embodiment if the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I) and (VII) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I) and (VII) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol% and in particular 40 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol%, preferably 45 to 55 mol% and in particular 60 mol% of structural units of the formula (VII).

Particularly preferred agents of this embodiment contain a copolymer (c2) having molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c2) has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) and / or (c2) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as structural units forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers which contain structural units as structural units of the formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of the vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.

Further particularly preferred agents according to this embodiment are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which contains at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one further structural unit of formula (I ) and at least one further structural unit according to formula (VIII) and at least one further structural unit according to formula (IX)

Here, too, it is particularly preferred in the context of this embodiment if the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VIII) and (IX) in the copolymer , at most 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 -a), (I), (VIII) and (IX) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M1 -a), (I), (VIII) and (IX) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (I) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (VIII) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (IX).

Particularly preferred agents of this embodiment contain a copolymer (c3) having molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c3) has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M1), the following are preferred:

N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and HM 552 Luviquat ^® (BASF SE)),

N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)),

N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)),

N-vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / N-vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ^® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)),

and mixtures of these polymers.

The composition according to the invention may comprise as an additional setting polymer at least one setting nonionic polymer. According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The setting nonionic polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention of this embodiment in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

According to the invention, such reinforcing nonionic polymers having at least one structural element of the formula (M2) (M2)

preferably suitable which according to formula (M2) as R 'is a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a propanoyl group, in particular an acetyl group bear.

The strengthening nonionic polymers are again preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed

Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, nonionic copolymers of isobutene.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

An agent which comprises, as a consolidating nonionic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed

polyvinylpyrrolidone,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18

Carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,

Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (Ci to C ₄₎ alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄₎ - alkyl acrylamide,

are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

(A) at least one cationic polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II) and at least one structural unit of

Formula (III),

and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (IVa)

wherein

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion

and

(C) at least one nonionic setting polymer selected from at least one copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms (in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate).

In addition, according to the invention, preferred agents for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, are those which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier:

and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (IVa)

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z H

RN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

X ^"

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _v H

(IVa)

wherein

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion

and

(c) polyvinylpyrrolidone.

Further possible means according to the invention of the additional nonionic setting polymer embodiment are characterized in that they are nonionic strengthening agents Polymer containing at least one copolymer containing at least another structural unit of formula (I) and at least one structural unit of formula (VII) and at least one structural unit of formula (VIII)

In this case too, it is particularly preferred if, in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the abovementioned structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) into the copolymer, these copolymers have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c4) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I), (VII) and (VIII) and can be distinguished by the general formula (poly4)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (I), (VII) and (VIII) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

A particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C 12 -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 .

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ 0- [G] _p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are used in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalyst. received. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 or Ceteareth- 50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

The compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol. According to the invention, it is preferred to use at least one (C 1 -C ₄ ) monoalkyl alcohol in the agents according to the invention, in particular in an amount of from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise. The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care material, for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used.

Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term "silicone oils" is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen Internation al Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

If the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10,000 μιη, preferably 0.01 to 100 μιη, more preferably 0.01 to 20 μιη and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 μιη. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant. Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the Mil Ii equivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.

As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin Bi (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)), vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone ), Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one extra kt plant.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention. Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.

Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate.

Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose acid and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.

Since the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.

Lipids which are suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known by the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® . The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as Example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isobutyl Pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R (D4-I)

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R, R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R is an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q ) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, Capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0, 1 to 30 wt.%, Based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, and in particular 0, 1 to 15 wt. %.

Although each of the aforementioned care substances alone already gives a satisfactory result, in the context of the present invention, all embodiments are also included, in which the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane propan-1, 3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), a - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-e thylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Esca lol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4 ' methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi) -1, 3,5 triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenones -1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure- 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o- aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydropyran droxybenzophenon (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone -6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7J-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept- 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 -Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of the N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0, 1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1, 4- Diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2 '-Hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro 2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-diphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2, 3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1 hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 1 1 are called.

The dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c). The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.

Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency. Structurants and / or Thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

The agents according to the invention are preferably used as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.

For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.

The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". As a "nonaerosol container", a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention are packaged as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.

Propellants which are suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When conventional spray devices are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the blowing agent in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant. In this case, the blowing agent is preferably used in an amount of 30 to 98% by weight, based on the entire product, used. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.

A preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant.

Preferred inventive agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above.

A second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.

The compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair foam, a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

It is inventively preferred that the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape and this form is fixed by the means of the first subject of the invention.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers (vide supra). A fourth subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied as a spray to the keratin-containing fibers using a dispensing device.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers (vide supra).

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way.

B e i s p e e l e

Unless otherwise stated, the following quantities are by weight.

The following formulations were provided:

Copolymer of vinyl acetate and N-vinylpyrrolidone in a ratio of 40:60 (50% active substance in water, INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (BASF)

² copolymer of methacryloylaminopropyl-lauryldimethylammonium chloride with N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 (10 wt .-% active ingredient in water) (ISP),

³ copolymer of methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride with N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam and dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide with the INCI name Polyquaternium-69 (30 wt .-% of active substance in water) (company ISP),

⁴ quaternized cellulose derivative (INCI name: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)

⁵ propane-butane mixture (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane)

The formulation ingredients were each filled into an aerosol container that meets the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche Präzisions-Ventil GmbH).

The formulations were each applied as hair foam from the aerosol container and distributed on the hair of a subject. The formulas were perceived as skin-mild and caused after use on the hair a hairstyle hold. The hair received a very good care.

Claims

P a n t a n s p r e c h e

Agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (IV)

R '

RN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

X

(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _v H

(IV)

wherein

x and y are independently an integer greater than 0,

R is a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkenyl group,

R 'is a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z H wherein z is an integer greater than 0, one

(C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkyl group or a (C ₈ to C ₂ o) -alkenyl group,

X ^" stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that polymer (a) has an average molecular weight M _w (weight average) of 50,000 to 250,000 g / mol, in particular from 75,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

Agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-87 is contained as cationic polymer (a).

Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the cationic polymer (a) in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 Wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention, is included.

Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic surfactant of the formula (IV) in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the cationic surfactant of the formula (IV) has a molecular weight of 550 to 2500 g / mol, in particular from 600 to 1000 g / mol.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the sum of x and y according to formula (IV) (or if R 'is a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z H, the sum from x and y and z,) stands for a number between 3 and 20, in particular for a number between 5 and 15.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that R 'according to formula (IV) represents a group ^* - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z H, wherein z is an integer greater than 0.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the sum of x and y and z is a number between 3 and 20, in particular a number between 5 and 15 stands.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that at least one polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-87 is contained as cationic polymer.

1 1. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is in the form of an aerosol foam or aerosol spray.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one setting polymer.

13. A method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein, using a dispenser, an agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 12 is foamed into a foam and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin fibers.

14. A method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 12 is applied as a spray on the keratin-containing fibers using a dispenser.