EP2934221B1 - Decorative part made by crimping - Google Patents
Decorative part made by crimping Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2934221B1 EP2934221B1 EP13811227.1A EP13811227A EP2934221B1 EP 2934221 B1 EP2934221 B1 EP 2934221B1 EP 13811227 A EP13811227 A EP 13811227A EP 2934221 B1 EP2934221 B1 EP 2934221B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- hollow
- decorative piece
- crimping
- aesthetic element
- support
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 title description 74
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 69
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 45
- 238000011049 filling Methods 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palladium Chemical compound [Pd] KDLHZDBZIXYQEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000005300 metallic glass Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- KJTLSVCANCCWHF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ruthenium Chemical compound [Ru] KJTLSVCANCCWHF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005266 casting Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005323 electroforming Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052741 iridium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iridium atom Chemical compound [Ir] GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052762 osmium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- SYQBFIAQOQZEGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N osmium atom Chemical compound [Os] SYQBFIAQOQZEGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052763 palladium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052702 rhenium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- WUAPFZMCVAUBPE-UHFFFAOYSA-N rhenium atom Chemical compound [Re] WUAPFZMCVAUBPE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052703 rhodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000010948 rhodium Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- MHOVAHRLVXNVSD-UHFFFAOYSA-N rhodium atom Chemical compound [Rh] MHOVAHRLVXNVSD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052707 ruthenium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
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- 229910001751 gemstone Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
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Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G04—HOROLOGY
- G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
- G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
- G04B19/06—Dials
- G04B19/10—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial
- G04B19/103—Ornamental shape of the graduations or the surface of the dial; Attachment of the graduations to the dial attached or inlaid numbers
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G04—HOROLOGY
- G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
- G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G04—HOROLOGY
- G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
- G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
- G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
- G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/006—Gems provided with a cavity, e.g. for containing another gem
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
- A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
- A44C27/002—Metallic materials
- A44C27/003—Metallic alloys
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T29/00—Metal working
- Y10T29/24—Hinge making or assembling
Definitions
- the cold plastic deformation of the crystalline metals is possible thanks to the movements of the dislocations present in the crystalline lattices.
- the elastic limit that is to say the stress beyond which a material starts to deform plastically, a crystalline alloy depends on the components of the latter as well as the thermomechanical history of the alloy.
- alloys having relatively low elastic limits are generally chosen to facilitate the work of the crimper.
- it is necessary that the alloy has sufficient elongation before rupture to be able to fold the attachment means without breaking.
- this elongation is the consequence of both the elements present in the alloy and the thermomechanical history of the latter.
- the filling step c) consists in filling the hollow by casting.
- the filling step c) consists in filling the hollow by driving a substrate into a metal element.
- step c) for filling the recess by heating comprises heating the support to thermally expand and increase the dimensions of the recess then place the substrate in the recess and finally cool to contract the support.
- the present invention is a decorative piece 1. It consists of a first part 2 and a second part 3.
- the two parts 2, 3 are arranged to become integral with each other.
- the second part 3 is intended to be crimped in the first part 2.
- the first part may be a support 2 and the second part 3, one or more aesthetic elements.
- This or these aesthetic elements 3 can be precious stones such as diamonds or rubies or non precious like zircons or any other possible aesthetic element.
- the decorative piece 1 may be, for example, a watch bezel 10 inlaid with indicia as visible in FIG. figure 1 or a watch glass 11 as visible in the figure 2 or a dial 22 or any external parts of a watch.
- a dial the latter comprises a discoidal body forming the support 2 in which are crimped aesthetic elements 3.
- This dial can be, for example, made of ceramic. It will be understood that ceramics are not the only material that can be used. Thus, any material not exhibiting plastic deformation sufficient, or whose elastic limit is too high to allow crimping, can be used such as for example sapphire, silicon, glass or hardened steel.
- this support 2 comprises at least one recess 4, represented on the figure 4 , arranged on said support 2 to allow the crimping of at least one aesthetic element 3.
- Each recess 4 is then in the form of a pattern and has flanks 7, preferably substantially perpendicular to the visible surface.
- These recesses 4 are used to allow the use of a substrate 6 for crimping.
- the invention proposes to fill said hollow 4 with a first material more easily plastically deformable so as to crimp said at least one aesthetic element 3, which is not possible with a ceramic or silicon support.
- a first material which is metallic.
- the first step, visible at figure 3 is to provide the support 2 in a material that does not deform plastically.
- the second step visible at figure 4 , This consists of making the recess 4 in the support 2.
- This recess 4 can be made for example by machining, by laser ablation, see directly during the molding of the support or by any other technique.
- the third step is to fill said recess with a first material. This first material is then used to serve as a substrate 6. The third step makes it possible to obtain the support 2 visible at the figure 6 .
- the first material used is a metal or metal alloy, partially amorphous or not.
- the term partially indicates that for a block of material, the percentage of material amount of said block having the amorphous state is sufficient for the block itself to have the specific characteristics of amorphous metals and metal alloys.
- the amorphous materials have the advantage of being easily shaped.
- the precious metal or one of these alloys is included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
- One of the methods for filling the hollow 4 is to use electroforming.
- the principle used for carrying out this filling consists, for non-conductive electrical materials, in depositing a first so-called conductive coupling layer by known techniques such as, for example: physical vapor deposition (PVD), deposition chemical vapor phase (CVD), electroless deposit or others.
- PVD physical vapor deposition
- CVD deposition chemical vapor phase
- electroless deposit or others.
- the bonding layer is not necessarily necessary.
- the recesses 4 are filled with metal by electroforming.
- the part to be marked is immersed in a bath containing metal ions which through an electric current are deposited on the said part.
- the recesses 4 are then filled with metal allowing the realization of said markings.
- a second method to fill the hollow is to use a method of assembly by driving.
- This method consists in producing a block of metal alloy whose dimensions and shape are slightly larger than those of the recess 4 and forcing this block to enter said recess 4.
- it may be provided to perform this step of assembly using thermal expansion.
- the Support 2 is heated so that, under the effect of heat, it expands thermally.
- the support 2 sees its dimensions increased.
- This increase in dimensions is also applicable to the recess 4. Consequently, the difference between the dimensions of the recess 4 and the dimensions of the block is modified so that the dimensions of the recess 4 become larger than those of the block. It is then easy to insert the block in the hollow 4.
- the support 2 is cooled, it resumes its initial dimensions and the block is stuck in said recess 4.
- a third method of filling the recess is to use hot forming.
- the Figures 5 and 6 represent in a simplified manner the steps of filling the hollow 4.
- This preform 6a may be made by various techniques such as, for example, injection into a form mold, hot forming above Tg, stamping of the strip, or by machining.
- this preform 6 is placed above the support 2, as visible in FIG. figure 5 on the face where said digs 4 open to perform the filling of said recesses by hot forming.
- the assembly is then heated to a temperature above the glass transition temperature Tg, thus allowing a decrease in the viscosity of the preform, and then a pressure is exerted. Once these conditions are met, the pressure exerted on the viscous preform allows the viscous amorphous metal alloy to fill the recess 4 as visible in FIG. figure 6 . Then, when the recesses 4 are filled as visible in the figure 6 the whole is cooled in order to maintain the amorphous state of the alloy.
- the vertical flanks 7 retain the amorphous material by friction.
- the flanks 7 may be inclined to shrink the surface of the horizontal plane at the bottom of the recess 4 or on the contrary so as to enlarge.
- the most advantageous case is when the surface of the bottom of the hollow 4 is the largest since it allows to naturally retain the amorphous metal alloy in the recess 4.
- the inclination generates a larger section at the bottom of the surface of the support 2
- the maintenance of the amorphous material in the recess 4 is no longer optimal.
- this decreasing viscosity causes a decrease in the stress to be applied to fill the recesses 4 with the amorphous metal alloy. Therefore, the support 2 of fragile materials is not likely to break although a pressing operation is performed.
- shaping is possible, such as, for example, the casting or injection process, which consists of heating a metal preform above its melting point and then casting or injecting the liquid metal thus obtained into the hollow 4 of support 2.
- the powder densification process can also be used and consists in introducing a metal powder into the recess 4 of the support 2 and consolidating it by a supply of energy such as an oven, a laser beam, an ion beam or any other means.
- a cooling step to a temperature below Tg is performed to prevent the crystallization of the alloy to obtain a hollow 4 filled with amorphous or semi-amorphous metal alloy.
- a fourth preparation step is performed.
- This step consists of manufacturing the housings or crimping holes 8 in which the aesthetic elements 3 are placed, and to manufacture the hooking means.
- This step can be carried out either conventionally such as machining, milling, drilling, or in a less conventional manner, by hot deformation, or by a combination of two ways.
- the hot deformation method consists of using a tool having the negative geometry of the hole and the crimping element and applying this tool, with a certain force and at a temperature higher than the Tg of the amorphous metal, on the alloy amorphous metal filling the hollow 4. It is thus possible to avoid the machining steps that can be difficult depending on the amorphous metal alloys used.
- the attachment means 5 is in the form of at least one crimping element 9.
- This crimping element 9 in the case for example of a grain crimping, consists of studs or grains arranged around the periphery of each crimping hole 8. These studs 9, visible at figures 8 and 10 are made by machining and are made before or after the drilling of the crimping holes 8. In fact, during the machining of the holes, the material of the substrate 6, that is to say of the first material, is removed so to form these crimping grains 9.
- the closed crimping consists of a single crimping element 9 extending on the periphery of the aesthetic element 3.
- the crimping rod is used to crimp the aesthetic elements 3 cut into rods.
- This crimping consists in providing crimping elements 9 extending parallel to each side of the aesthetic element 3 coming down on the latter.
- the crimping elements 9 are projecting portions arranged in the crimping hole 8. These projecting portions cooperate with at least one groove made on said aesthetic element 3 so that the crimping is done by inserting the aesthetic element 3 in the hole 8 until the projecting portions fit into said at least one groove.
- crimping grain in the case of a crimping grain, it is expected to ideally have four crimping grains 9 near each crimping hole 8 as visible in FIG. figure 10 .
- the aesthetic element 3 is in the form of a diamond comprising a yoke 3b in which are cut several facets and a crown 3c also faceted surmounted by a 3d table as visible in the figure 15 .
- This aesthetic element has, seen from above, a substantially circular shape. For the illusion of crimping in the material of the support 2 is intact, it is expected that the width of the recess 4 is ideally equal to that of the aesthetic element 3.
- the distance between the aesthetic element 3 and the edge of the recess 4 must be at least 0.01 mm so that the visual effect of the aesthetic element 3 in the support 2 is optimal, that is to say to have the impression that the aesthetic element 3 remains embedded in the ceramic support 2 and not in a metal.
- the maximum distance between the aesthetic element 3 and the edge of the recess 4 this will depend on the dimensions and shapes of the aesthetic elements 3. For example, for an aesthetic element 3 with a diameter of 1 mm, the distance between the aesthetic element 3 and the edge of the recess 4 will be 0.45 mm.
- the distance between the aesthetic element 3 and the edge of the recess 4 is composed of a so-called worked area, that is to say an area in which the crimping grains are made, this hollow zone, and a so-called non-worked zone which is an aesthetic and visual zone.
- this non-worked area will be at least 0.01 mm and at most 0.20mm. Preferably, it will be 0.10 mm.
- the height of the hole 8 is at least equal to the height of the yoke of the aesthetic element 3. This allows, when the aesthetic element 3 is crimped, to see as little as possible the first constituent material of the substrate 6.
- the crimping grains 9, four in number are made so as to have a shape of a right triangle whose hypotenuse is convex.
- the convex shape of the hypotenuse is similar to the curvature to that of the aesthetic element 3 when it is seen from above.
- the conventional crimping step consists of deformation.
- This technique consists in placing the aesthetic element 3 in the hole 8 and in deforming the substrate and / or the crimping elements 5 to press them on said aesthetic element 3 as visible to the Figures 9 to 13 . As a result, the latter is held in the crimping hole 8.
- the deformation may also be elastic or obtained by thermal expansion.
- the crimping is obtained by clipping the aesthetic element in the attachment means 5. It is obvious that in this case, a slight plastic deformation of the attachment means 5 could take place.
- the crimping is obtained by heating the support 2 to a sufficiently high temperature to allow the encrustation of the aesthetic element 3 in its hole 8 without effort. The cooling will then make it possible to contract the material thus making it possible to maintain the aesthetic element 3 by the attachment means 5.
- amorphous metals have no dislocations and can not plastically deform by the movement of the latter. They therefore generally have a fragile behavior, that is to say that they suddenly break once the elastic limit exceeded. It has been found, however, that some amorphous alloys can accommodate macroscopic permanent deformation by generation of slip bands at the microscopic scale. In addition to being dependent on the type of amorphous alloy, the ability to accommodate permanent deformation in amorphous metals is highly dependent on the dimensions of the part. Thus, the smaller the dimensions of the area requested, the greater the permanent deformation.
- a first crimping method used is plastic deformation. The latter is done with a tool called perloir 100 used to deform each crimping element 9, it allows to obtain the aesthetic element 3 set with the figure 13 .
- plastic deformation is possible for amorphous alloys accommodating permanent deformation and having not too high elastic limits, typically less than 1500 MPa,
- a second method of crimping is used for alloys with elastic limits that are too high for manual cold-working deformation, such as, for example, amorphous metal alloys having a yield strength greater than 1500 MPa:
- the crimping method consists in heating the grains 9 to a temperature above the glass transition temperature Tg of the amorphous metal alloy in order to greatly reduce the viscosity and therefore the force required for their deformation.
- the grains may be heated using a heated crimping tool, passing an electric current between the crimping tool and the grain, a grain-focused laser beam or any other method. Once the grains 9 at the right temperature, they are deformed so that crimping can take place. Cooling below Tg then allows the grains to become solid and thus to make crimping effective.
- a third method of crimping is used when the alloys are difficult to crimpable by plastic deformation cold or hot.
- This mode consists in using the large elastic deformation of amorphous alloys, typically 2% or that of crystalline alloys, typically 0.5%.
- the method consists of pressing the aesthetic element 3 into the crimping hole 8 of the substrate 6. Under the pressure, the metal alloy of the substrate 6 deforms elastically allowing the aesthetic element 3 to be inserted.
- the attachment means 5 in the form of a crimping recess, and the rondiste or the end or the edge 3a of the aesthetic elements 3 are opposite one another, a springback takes place.
- the elastic return of the attachment means 5 on the aesthetic element 3 makes it possible to definitively maintain it as visible to Figures 15 and 16 .
- a fourth method of crimping is envisaged.
- the support 2 is heated thermally so that all the support expands, that is to say the support 2 and the substrate 6 amorphous alloy.
- the crimping hole 8 also expands. Therefore, the aesthetic element 3 can be placed in the crimping hole 8.
- the aesthetic element 3 is then held in the hole 8 by the hooking means 5 after cooling the support 2 as visible to the Figures 17 and 18 .
- These attachment means 5 is in the form of a crimping recess in which the girdle or the end or the edge 3a of the aesthetic element 3 is inserted.
- a fifth method of crimping can be envisaged specifically for amorphous materials in which the fourth step d) and the fifth step e) are simultaneous.
- This mode consists of heating the aesthetic element to a temperature above the glass transition temperature Tg of the first material and then pressing it therein, that is to say the amorphous metal alloy.
- the heat released by said aesthetic element locally heats the substrate 6 to a temperature above Tg which allows the amorphous metal alloy to greatly reduce its viscosity thus facilitating insertion.
- the substrate 6 is cooled to keep the amorphous state of the alloy and is deburred from any surplus material.
- This step thus allows a better grip of the aesthetic element 3 in the substrate 6 thanks to the ability of the amorphous metal alloy to marry the contours.
- a sixth crimping method in which the third (c), fourth (d) and fifth (e) are simultaneous is contemplated.
- This variant consists in providing that the aesthetic element 3 is directly placed in the recess 4 before the step of filling said recess 4 with the first material. The filling of the recess 4 is then done by casting, hot forming, electroforming or densification whose details have been explained previously. This technique makes it possible to have a faster crimping process while ensuring a good maintenance of the aesthetic elements 3.
- An advantage of the invention is that it can crimp any type of material.
- the principle used is an insert principle that is to say that a substrate material capable of accepting a deformation is reported in a material that is not plastically deformable so as to allow crimping and to give the illusion that it is this non-plastically deformable material that is crimped.
- the maintenance of the first material is improved by using holding means 50.
- These holding means 50 comprise at least one recess 51 and / or at least one protrusion 52. These holding means 50 are made prior to the filling of the recess 4.
- the first material filled the recesses 5a or 5b protuberances become trapped in said first material. Consequently, when the first material fills the recess 4 and is solidified, it is perfectly maintained in said recess 4.
- the low viscosity of the amorphous material makes it possible to fill the hollow 4 well.
- this low viscosity of the amorphous material makes it possible to fill the hollow. also to better fill the recesses 51 or to better wrap the growths 52.
- recesses 51 or protuberances 52 may be located on the vertical flanks 7 of the recess 4 or at the bottom 7a of the recess 4. Similarly, the recesses 51 may or may not be through.
Description
La présente invention concerne une pièce décorative. Cette pièce décorative comprend un support dans lequel au moins un élément esthétique est serti.The present invention relates to a decorative piece. This decorative piece comprises a support in which at least one aesthetic element is crimped.
Il est connu dans l'art antérieur des pièces décoratives destinées à être rapportées sur un objet portable tel une montre ou un bijou et consistant au sertissage d'élément esthétique sur les parties dudit objet portable faisant office de support.It is known in the prior art decorative pieces intended to be reported on a portable object such as a watch or a jewel and consisting in the crimping of aesthetic element on the parts of said portable object acting as a support.
Pour cela, la partie est réalisée en alliage métallique et est usinée pour que des logements apparaissent. Lors de cet usinage, des moyens d'accroche se présentant sous la forme de crochets, sont réalisés. Généralement, ces crochets sont réalisés avec la matière formant l'objet, l'objet c'est à dire de façon monobloc avec l'objet. Lorsqu'un élément esthétique, telle une pierre précieuse, doit être serti, ce dernier est placé dans un logement et les moyens d'accroche sont rabattus de sorte à maintenir ledit élément esthétique dans le logement. Cette méthode de sertissage est largement répandue pour sertir des pierres précieuses sur des supports en métal car le métal présente une capacité de déformation plastique avantageuse. Cette capacité est encore plus avantageuse avec des métaux précieux comme l'or, car ces métaux précieux sont ductiles et peuvent être facilement façonnés. La déformation plastique à froid des métaux cristallins est possible grâce aux mouvements des dislocations présentes dans les réseaux cristallins. La limite élastique, c'est-à-dire la contrainte au-delà de laquelle un matériau commence à se déformer plastiquement, d'un alliage cristallin dépend des éléments composants ce dernier ainsi que de l'historique thermo-mécanique de l'alliage. Pour le sertissage traditionnel, des alliages ayant des limites élastiques relativement faibles sont généralement choisis afin de faciliter le travail du sertisseur. En plus d'une limite élastique relativement faible, il est nécessaire que l'alliage présente un allongement avant rupture suffisant afin de pouvoir rabattre les moyens d'accroche sans qu'ils cassent. Tout comme pour la limite élastique, cet allongement est la conséquence à la fois des éléments présents dans l'alliage et de l'histoire thermo-mécanique de ce dernier. Par exemple, les alliages d'or utilisés dans l'horlogerie ont une limite élastique de l'ordre de 200-400MPa et un allongement à la rupture de 20-40%. Les aciers inoxydables de type 1.4435 ont une limite élastique de 200-300 MPa et un allongement à la rupture de 25-45%.For this, the part is made of metal alloy and is machined for housing to appear. During this machining, fastening means in the form of hooks are made. Generally, these hooks are made with the material forming the object, the object that is to say one-piece with the object. When an aesthetic element, such as a gemstone, is to be crimped, the latter is placed in a housing and the attachment means are folded so as to maintain said aesthetic element in the housing. This method of crimping is widely used to crimp gemstones on metal supports because the metal has an advantageous plastic deformation capacity. This ability is even more advantageous with precious metals such as gold because these precious metals are ductile and can be easily shaped. The cold plastic deformation of the crystalline metals is possible thanks to the movements of the dislocations present in the crystalline lattices. The elastic limit, that is to say the stress beyond which a material starts to deform plastically, a crystalline alloy depends on the components of the latter as well as the thermomechanical history of the alloy. For traditional crimping, alloys having relatively low elastic limits are generally chosen to facilitate the work of the crimper. In addition to a relatively low elastic limit, it is necessary that the alloy has sufficient elongation before rupture to be able to fold the attachment means without breaking. As for the elastic limit, this elongation is the consequence of both the elements present in the alloy and the thermomechanical history of the latter. For example, the gold alloys used in watchmaking have an elastic limit of the order of 200-400 MPa and an elongation at break of 20-40%. Type 1.4435 stainless steels have a yield strength of 200-300 MPa and an elongation at break of 25-45%.
Néanmoins, un inconvénient de cette méthode est qu'elle est cantonnée aux supports réalisés en métaux ou alliages métalliques ductiles. Or, de plus en plus de pièces d'horlogerie sont réalisées dans des matériaux ne présentant pas de déformation plastique, souvent durs et/ou fragiles, comme par exemple la céramique, le silicium, les composites ou encore des alliages intermétalliques.Nevertheless, a disadvantage of this method is that it is confined to supports made of ductile metals or metal alloys. However, more and more timepieces are made in materials that do not exhibit plastic deformation, often hard and / or fragile, such as for example ceramic, silicon, composites or intermetallic alloys.
De ce fait, il n'est plus possible d'utiliser la méthode actuelle pour sertir des éléments esthétiques comme par exemple des pierres précieuses.Therefore, it is no longer possible to use the current method to crimp aesthetic elements such as precious stones.
Cette opération de sertissage est donc remplacée par une opération de collage. Le collage a pour désavantage de ne pas assurer une tenue des pierres à 100% car contrairement au sertissage, cette technique n'implique pas une retenue mécanique des pierres. En effet, les zones collées étant dans la majorité des cas exposées à l'environnement extérieur (humidité, sueur, UV, pollution de l'air,...), la tenue du collage sur le long terme est rendue difficile. Par conséquent, la tenue des pierres n'est pas assurée ce qui n'est pas acceptable pour des produits de qualité. Le document
L'invention concerne une pièce décorative qui pallie les inconvénients susmentionnés de l'art antérieur en proposant une pièce décorative et son procédé de fabrication permettant le sertissage d'élément esthétique sur une pièce en matériaux qui ne présentent pas de déformation plastique suffisante.The invention relates to a decorative piece that overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks of the prior art by providing a decorative piece and its manufacturing method for crimping aesthetic element on a piece of material that does not exhibit sufficient plastic deformation.
A cet effet, l'invention concerne une pièce décorative selon la revendication 1.For this purpose, the invention relates to a decorative piece according to
Dans un second mode de réalisation avantageux, ladite au moins une creusure comprend des flancs verticaux afin d'améliorer le maintien de chaque élément esthétique dans le support.In a second advantageous embodiment, said at least one recess comprises vertical flanks in order to improve the maintenance of each aesthetic element in the support.
Dans un troisième mode de réalisation avantageux, ladite au moins une creusure comprend des flancs agencés de sorte que la surface de la creusure augmente avec la profondeur de la creusure.In a third advantageous embodiment, said at least one recess comprises flanks arranged so that the surface of the recess increases with the depth of the recess.
Dans un quatrième mode de réalisation avantageux, ladite au moins une creusure comprend des flancs agencés de sorte que la surface de la creusure diminue avec la profondeur de la creusure.In a fourth advantageous embodiment, said at least one recess comprises flanks arranged so that the surface of the recess decreases with the depth of the recess.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, ladite au moins une creusure comprend des moyens de maintien s'étendant à partir de l'une des parois de la creusure pour maintenir le premier matériau dans ladite creusure.In another advantageous embodiment, said at least one recess comprises holding means extending from one of the walls of the recess for holding the first material in said recess.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, les moyens de maintien se présentent sous la forme d'au moins un évidement.In another advantageous embodiment, the holding means are in the form of at least one recess.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, les moyens de maintien se présentent sous la forme d'au moins un évidement traversant.In another advantageous embodiment, the holding means are in the form of at least one through recess.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, les moyens de maintien se présentent sous la forme d'au moins une excroissance.In another advantageous embodiment, the holding means are in the form of at least one protrusion.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau est un matériau métallique totalement amorphe.In another advantageous embodiment, the first material is a totally amorphous metallic material.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau comporte au moins un élément qui est du type précieux, compris dans la liste comportant l'or, le platine, le palladium, le rhénium, le ruthénium, le rhodium, l'argent, l'iridium ou l'osmium.In another advantageous embodiment, the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la distance entre l'élément esthétique et un bord de la creusure est au minimum de 0.01 mm.In another advantageous embodiment, the distance between the aesthetic element and an edge of the recess is at least 0.01 mm.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la hauteur du logement est au moins égale à la hauteur de la culasse de l'élément esthétique.In another advantageous embodiment, the height of the housing is at least equal to the height of the yoke of the aesthetic element.
L'invention concerne également un procédé de sertissage selon la revendication 13.The invention also relates to a crimping method according to claim 13.
Dans un mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau est un matériau métallique totalement amorphe.In an advantageous embodiment, the first material is a totally amorphous metallic material.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau comporte au moins un élément qui est du type précieux, compris dans la liste comportant l'or, le platine, le palladium, le rhénium, le ruthénium, le rhodium, l'argent, l'iridium ou l'osmium.In another advantageous embodiment, the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape c) de remplissage consiste à déposer ledit premier matériau par électroformage.In another advantageous embodiment, step c) of filling comprises depositing said first material by electroforming.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape c) de remplissage consiste à remplir la creusure par coulée.In another advantageous embodiment, the filling step c) consists in filling the hollow by casting.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape c) de remplissage consiste à remplir la creusure par formage à chaud.In another advantageous embodiment, the filling step c) consists in filling the hollow by hot forming.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape c) de remplissage consiste à remplir la creusure par chassage d'un substrat en un élément métallique.In another advantageous embodiment, the filling step c) consists in filling the hollow by driving a substrate into a metal element.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape c) visant remplir la creusure par chassage consiste à chauffer le support pour le dilater thermiquement et augmenter les dimensions de la creusure puis placer le substrat dans la creusure et enfin refroidir pour contracter le support.In another advantageous embodiment, step c) for filling the recess by heating comprises heating the support to thermally expand and increase the dimensions of the recess then place the substrate in the recess and finally cool to contract the support.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape c) de remplissage consiste à remplir la creusure par densification de poudre.In another advantageous embodiment, the filling step c) consists in filling the hollow by densification of powder.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la déformation plastique est effectuée en chauffant les plots ou les grains à température supérieure à la température de transition vitreuse du premier matériau métallique au moins partiellement amorphe.In another advantageous embodiment, the plastic deformation is performed by heating the pads or the grains at a temperature greater than the glass transition temperature of the first at least partially amorphous metal material.
La présente invention offre alors la possibilité d'utiliser une méthode de sertissage connue et donc de ne pas complexifier le procédé.The present invention then offers the possibility of using a known crimping method and thus not to complicate the process.
Un autre avantage de cette solution est qu'elle permet de sertir n'importe quel type de matériaux. En effet, le principe utilisé est un principe de matériau rapporté c'est-à-dire qu'un substrat dans un matériau déformable est introduit dans un matériau non déformable plastiquement de sorte à permettre un sertissage et à donner l'illusion que c'est ce matériau non déformable plastiquement qui est serti.Another advantage of this solution is that it can crimp any type of material. Indeed, the principle used is a principle of the material that is to say that a substrate in a deformable material is introduced into a plastically deformable material so as to allow crimping and to give the illusion that it is this non-plastically deformable material which is crimped.
Les buts, avantages et caractéristiques de la pièce décorative et de son procédé selon la présente invention apparaîtront plus clairement dans la description détaillée suivante d'au moins une forme de réalisation de l'invention donnée uniquement à titre d'exemple non limitatif et illustrée par les dessins annexés sur lesquels :
- les
figures 1 et 2 représentent de manière schématique exemple de pièce décorative utilisant la présente invention ; - les
figures 3 à 11 illustrent schématiquement les étapes du procédé de réalisation selon un exemple de l'invention; - les
figures 12 et 13 représentent une vue de haut des éléments esthétiques sertis et non sertis selon l'invention. - la
figures 14 représente une vue en coupe des moyens de maintien selon l'invention. - les
figures 15 et 16 représentent une alternative du procédé selon l'invention. - les
figures 17 et 18 représentent une autre alternative du procédé selon l'invention.
- the
Figures 1 and 2 show schematically example of decorative piece using the present invention; - the
Figures 3 to 11 schematically illustrate the steps of the production method according to an example of the invention; - the
Figures 12 and 13 represent a top view of the aesthetic elements crimped and not set according to the invention. - the
figures 14 represents a sectional view of the holding means according to the invention. - the
Figures 15 and 16 represent an alternative of the process according to the invention. - the
Figures 17 and 18 represent another alternative of the process according to the invention.
Dans la description suivante, toutes les parties de la pièce décorative qui sont bien connues de l'homme du métier dans ce domaine technique ne seront expliquées que de manière simplifiée.In the following description, all parts of the decorative part which are well known to those skilled in this technical field will be explained in a simplified manner.
Comme visible aux
Sur les
Avantageusement selon l'invention, ce support 2 comporte au moins une creusure 4, représentée sur la
La première étape, visible à la
La seconde étape, visible à la
La troisième étape consiste à remplir ladite creusure avec un premier matériau. Ce premier matériau est alors utilisé pour servir de substrat 6. La troisième étape permet d'obtenir le support 2 visible à la
On utilise, comme premier matériau, un métal ou alliage métallique, partiellement amorphe ou non. Le terme partiellement indique que pour un bloc de matière, le pourcentage de quantité de matière dudit bloc présentant l'état amorphe est suffisant pour que le bloc en lui-même présente les caractéristiques spécifiques aux métaux et alliages métalliques amorphes. Les matériaux amorphes ont l'avantage de pouvoir être facilement mis en forme. De même, il peut être possible d'utiliser un métal précieux ou un de ces alliages afin de donner un caractère noble à ladite pièce décorative. Ainsi, le métal précieux ou un de ces alliages est compris dans la liste comportant l'or, le platine, le palladium, le rhénium, le ruthénium, le rhodium, l'argent, l'iridium ou l'osmium.The first material used is a metal or metal alloy, partially amorphous or not. The term partially indicates that for a block of material, the percentage of material amount of said block having the amorphous state is sufficient for the block itself to have the specific characteristics of amorphous metals and metal alloys. The amorphous materials have the advantage of being easily shaped. Similarly, it may be possible to use a precious metal or one of these alloys to give a noble character to said decorative piece. Thus, the precious metal or one of these alloys is included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
Une des méthodes pour remplir la creusure 4 consiste à utiliser l'électroformage. Le principe utilisé pour la réalisation de ce remplissage consiste, pour les matériaux non-conducteurs électriques, à déposer une première couche dite d'accrochage conductrice par des techniques connues telles que par exemple : le dépôt physique en phase vapeur (PVD), le dépôt chimique en phase vapeur (CVD), le dépôt electroless ou autres. Pour les matériaux conducteurs électriques, la couche d'accrochage n'est pas forcément nécessaire. Une fois la couche d'accrochage déposée, les creusures 4 sont remplies de métal par électroformage. La pièce à marquer est plongée dans un bain contenant des ions métalliques qui à travers un courant électrique se déposent sur la dite pièce. Les creusures 4 se remplissent alors de métal permettant ainsi la réalisation desdits marquages.One of the methods for filling the hollow 4 is to use electroforming. The principle used for carrying out this filling consists, for non-conductive electrical materials, in depositing a first so-called conductive coupling layer by known techniques such as, for example: physical vapor deposition (PVD), deposition chemical vapor phase (CVD), electroless deposit or others. For electrically conductive materials, the bonding layer is not necessarily necessary. Once the bonding layer deposited, the
Une seconde méthode pour remplir la creusure consiste à utiliser une méthode d'assemblage par chassage. Cette méthode consiste à réaliser un bloc d'alliage métallique dont les dimensions et la forme sont légèrement plus grandes que celles de la creusure 4 et à forcer ce bloc à rentrer dans ladite creusure 4. Avantageusement, il peut être prévu de réaliser cette étape d'assemblage en utilisant la dilatation thermique. Pour ce faire, le support 2 est chauffé de sorte que, sous l'effet de la chaleur, il se dilate thermiquement. Le support 2 voit ses dimensions augmentées. Cette augmentation des dimensions est également applicable à la creusure 4. Par conséquent la différence entre les dimensions de la creusure 4 et les dimensions du bloc est modifiée de sorte que les dimensions de la creusure 4 deviennent plus importantes que celles du bloc. Il est alors aisé d'insérer le bloc dans la creusure 4. Lorsque le support 2 est refroidit, il reprend ses dimensions initiales et le bloc se retrouve coincé dans ladite creusure 4.A second method to fill the hollow is to use a method of assembly by driving. This method consists in producing a block of metal alloy whose dimensions and shape are slightly larger than those of the
Une troisième méthode pour remplir la creusure consiste à utiliser le formage à chaud. Les
Ce type de matériaux convient bien du fait qu'ils peuvent ainsi facilement remplir tout le volume de la creusure 4. Après refroidissement, les flancs 7 verticaux permettent de retenir le matériau amorphe par frottements. Bien entendu, les flancs 7 peuvent être inclinés de façon à rétrécir la surface du plan horizontal au fond de la creusure 4 ou bien au contraire de sorte à l'agrandir. Le cas le plus avantageux est celui où la surface du fond de la creusure 4 est la plus grande puisqu'elle permet de retenir naturellement l'alliage métallique amorphe dans la creusure 4. Inversement, lorsque l'inclinaison engendre une section plus grande au niveau de la surface du support 2, le maintien du matériau amorphe dans la creusure 4 n'est plus optimal. Un autre avantage est que cette viscosité qui diminue entraîne une diminution de la contrainte à appliquer pour remplir les creusures 4 avec l'alliage métallique amorphe. De ce fait, le support 2 en matériaux fragiles ne risque pas de se briser bien qu'une opération de pressage soit effectuée.This type of material is well suited to the fact that they can easily fill the entire volume of the hollow 4. After cooling, the
Bien entendu, d'autres types de mise en forme sont possibles comme par exemple le procédé de coulée ou injection qui consiste à chauffer une préforme métallique au-dessus de son point de fusion et puis à couler ou injecter le métal liquide ainsi obtenu dans la creusure 4 du support 2.Of course, other types of shaping are possible, such as, for example, the casting or injection process, which consists of heating a metal preform above its melting point and then casting or injecting the liquid metal thus obtained into the hollow 4 of
Le procédé de densification de poudre peut également être utilisé et consiste à introduire une poudre métallique dans la creusure 4 du support 2 et à la consolider par un apport d'énergie tel un four, un faisceau laser, un faisceau ionique ou tout autre moyen. Une fois la creusure 4 remplie, une étape de refroidissement jusqu'à une température inférieure à Tg est effectuée afin d'éviter la cristallisation de l'alliage pour obtenir une creusure 4 remplie d'alliage métallique amorphe ou semi-amorphe.The powder densification process can also be used and consists in introducing a metal powder into the
Une fois la creusure remplie, une quatrième étape de préparation est effectuée. Cette étape consiste à fabriquer les logements ou trous 8 de sertissage dans lequel les éléments esthétiques 3 sont placés, et à fabriquer les moyens d'accroches. Cette étape peut être réalisée soit de manière classique tels que l'usinage, le fraisage, le perçage, soit de manière moins classique, par déformation à chaud, soit par un mixte des deux manières. La méthode de déformation à chaud consiste à utiliser un outil ayant la géométrie négative du trou et de l'élément de sertissage et à appliquer cet outil, avec une certaine force et à une température supérieure à la Tg du métal amorphe, sur l'alliage métallique amorphe remplissant la creusure 4. Il est ainsi possible d'éviter les étapes d'usinage qui peuvent être difficiles selon les alliages métalliques amorphes utilisés.Once the hollow is filled, a fourth preparation step is performed. This step consists of manufacturing the housings or crimping
Les moyens d'accroche 5 se présentant sous la forme d'au moins un élément de sertissage 9. Cet élément de sertissage 9, dans le cas par exemple d'un sertissage grains, consiste en des plots ou grains agencés sur le pourtour de chaque trou de sertissage 8. Ces plots 9, visibles aux
On comprendra que d'autres types de sertissage peuvent être envisagés. Dès lors, le sertissage clos, le sertissage baguette, le sertissage rail ou sertissage invisible sont envisageables. Par exemple, le sertissage clos consiste en un unique élément de sertissage 9 s'étendant sur la périphérie de l'élément esthétique 3. Le sertissage baguette est utilisé pour sertir les éléments esthétiques 3 taillés en baguette. Ce sertissage consiste à prévoir des éléments de sertissage 9 s'étendant parallèlement à chaque côté de l'élément esthétique 3 venant se rabattre sur ce dernier. Pour le sertissage invisible, il est prévu que les éléments de sertissage 9 soient des portions saillantes agencées dans le trou de sertissage 8. Ces portions saillantes coopèrent avec au moins une gorge réalisées sur ledit élément esthétique 3 de sorte que le sertissage se fait en insérant l'élément esthétique 3 dans le trou 8 jusqu'à ce que les portions saillantes s'insèrent dans ladite au moins une gorge.It will be understood that other types of crimping can be envisaged. Therefore, closed crimping, crimping stick, crimping rail or invisible crimping are possible. For example, the closed crimping consists of a single crimping
De préférence, dans le cas d'un sertissage grain, il est prévu d'avoir idéalement quatre grains de sertissage 9 à proximité de chaque trou de sertissage 8 comme visible à la
Dans un exemple particulier de réalisation visible à la
Dans un autre exemple, on définit que la distance entre l'élément esthétique 3 et le bord de la creusure 4 se compose d'une zone dite travaillée c'est-à-dire une zone dans laquelle les grains de sertissage sont réalisés, cette zone pouvant être creuse, et d'une zone dite non-travaillée qui est une zone esthétique et visuelle. Dans ce cas, cette zone non travaillée sera au minimum de 0.01 mm et au maximum de 0.20mm. De préférence, elle sera de 0.10 mm.In another example, it is defined that the distance between the
De même, on comprendra que la hauteur du trou 8 est au moins égale à la hauteur de la culasse de l'élément esthétique 3. Cela permet, lorsque l'élément esthétique 3 est serti, de voir le moins possible le premier matériau constitutif du substrat 6. Dans ce cas, les grains de sertissage 9, au nombre de quatre, sont réalisés de sorte à présenter une forme de triangle rectangle dont l'hypoténuse est convexe. De préférence, la forme convexe de l'hypoténuse est similaire à la courbure à celle de l'élément esthétique 3 lorsque celui-ci est vu de haut.Similarly, it will be understood that the height of the
Une fois la quatrième étape de préparation terminée, on obtient le support 2 visible à la
L'étape de sertissage classique consiste en une déformation. Cette technique consiste à poser l'élément esthétique 3 dans le trou 8 et à déformer le substrat et/ou les éléments de sertissage 5 pour les plaquer sur ledit élément esthétique 3 comme visibles aux
La déformation peut également être élastique ou obtenue par dilatation thermique. Dans le cas de la déformation élastique, le sertissage est obtenu par clipsage de l'élément esthétique dans les moyens d'accroche 5. Il est évident que dans ce cas, une légère déformation plastique des moyens d'accroche 5 pourrait avoir lieu. Dans le cas de la déformation par dilatation thermique, le sertissage est obtenu en chauffant le support 2 à une température suffisamment élevée pour permettre l'incrustation de l'élément esthétique 3 dans son trou 8 sans effort. Le refroidissement permettra ensuite de contracter la matière permettant ainsi de maintenir l'élément esthétique 3 par les moyens d'accroche 5.The deformation may also be elastic or obtained by thermal expansion. In the case of elastic deformation, the crimping is obtained by clipping the aesthetic element in the attachment means 5. It is obvious that in this case, a slight plastic deformation of the attachment means 5 could take place. In the case of deformation by thermal expansion, the crimping is obtained by heating the
La procédé consiste donc à :
- a) se munir d'un support dans un matériau fragile (2) avec au moins une creusure (4);
- b) se munir d'au moins un élément esthétique (3);
- c) remplir ladite creusure avec un premier matériau;
- d) réaliser au moins un trou de sertissage (8) et au moins un élément de sertissage dans le premier matériau;
- e) sertir ledit au moins un élément esthétique en le plaçant dans ledit au moins un trou et en déformant plastiquement l'élément de sertissage de sorte à le maintenir.
- a) providing a support in a brittle material (2) with at least one recess (4);
- b) providing at least one aesthetic element (3);
- c) filling said hollow with a first material;
- d) providing at least one crimping hole (8) and at least one crimping element in the first material;
- e) crimping said at least one aesthetic element by placing it in said at least one hole and plastically deforming the crimping element so as to maintain it.
Or, contrairement aux métaux cristallins, les métaux amorphes n'ont pas de dislocations et ne peuvent donc pas se déformer plastiquement par le mouvement de ces dernières. Ils ont donc généralement un comportement fragile, c'est-à-dire qu'ils cassent de manière soudaine une fois la limite élastique dépassée. Il a toutefois été constaté que certains alliages amorphes peuvent accommoder une déformation permanente macroscopique par génération de bandes de glissement à l'échelle microscopique. En plus de dépendre du type d'alliage amorphe, la capacité d'accommoder une déformation permanente dans les métaux amorphes dépend fortement des dimensions de la pièce. Ainsi plus les dimensions de la zone sollicitée sont faibles, plus la déformation permanente pourra être grande. Par exemple, il est possible de plier de manière permanente une bande d'épaisseur 100µm en alliage Pt57.5Cu14.7Ni5.3P22.5 amorphe jusqu'à un angle supérieur à 90° sans rupture, alors qu'une bande de même dimension en alliage Fe56Co7Ni7Zr8Ta8B20 amorphe n'accommodera aucune déformation permanente.However, unlike crystalline metals, amorphous metals have no dislocations and can not plastically deform by the movement of the latter. They therefore generally have a fragile behavior, that is to say that they suddenly break once the elastic limit exceeded. It has been found, however, that some amorphous alloys can accommodate macroscopic permanent deformation by generation of slip bands at the microscopic scale. In addition to being dependent on the type of amorphous alloy, the ability to accommodate permanent deformation in amorphous metals is highly dependent on the dimensions of the part. Thus, the smaller the dimensions of the area requested, the greater the permanent deformation. For example, it is possible to permanently bend a 100 μm thick strip of amorphous Pt57.5Cu14.7Ni5.3P22.5 alloy to an angle greater than 90 ° without breaking, while a strip of the same dimension in diameter amorphous Fe56Co7Ni7Zr8Ta8B20 alloy will not accommodate any permanent deformation.
Par conséquent, différentes méthodes de sertissage ont été imaginées.Therefore, different crimping methods have been devised.
Une première méthode de sertissage utilisée est la déformation plastique. Cette dernière se fait avec un outil appelé perloir 100 utilisé pour déformer chaque élément de sertissage 9, elle permet d'obtenir l'élément esthétique 3 serti de la
Pour les alliages amorphes, la déformation plastique est possible pour les alliages amorphes accommodant la déformation permanente et ayant des limites élastiques pas trop élevées, typiquement inférieures à 1500 MPa,For amorphous alloys, plastic deformation is possible for amorphous alloys accommodating permanent deformation and having not too high elastic limits, typically less than 1500 MPa,
Une seconde méthode de sertissage est utilisée pour les alliages ayant des limites élastiques trop élevées pour une déformation plastique manuelle à froid comme par exemple les alliages métalliques amorphes ayant une limite élastique supérieure à 1500 MPa: La méthode de sertissage consiste à chauffer les grains 9 à une température supérieure à la température de transition vitreuse Tg de l'alliage métallique amorphe afin de diminuer fortement la viscosité et donc la force nécessaire à leur déformation. Les grains peuvent être chauffés en utilisant un outil de sertissage chauffant, par passage d'un courant électrique entre l'outil de sertissage et le grain, par un faisceau laser focalisé sur le grain ou toute autre méthode. Une fois les grains 9 à la bonne température, ils sont déformés pour que le sertissage puisse avoir lieu. Le refroidissement en dessous de Tg permet alors aux grains de redevenir solide et donc de rendre le sertissage effectif. Cette solution a l'avantage de permettre un contact intime entre l'alliage métallique amorphe et l'élément esthétique 3 ce qui améliore la tenue de ce dernier. En effet, dans le cas de la déformation plastique à froid, autant pour les métaux cristallins qu'amorphes, un retour élastique s'opère lors du relâchement de la force appliquée sur le grain 9. Ce retour implique inévitablement un léger décollement entre le grain 9 et l'élément esthétique 3, ce qui peut engendrer des problèmes de tenue. Or, la déformation à chaud utilisée n'implique pas de retour élastique et le relâchement ne s'opère donc pas.A second method of crimping is used for alloys with elastic limits that are too high for manual cold-working deformation, such as, for example, amorphous metal alloys having a yield strength greater than 1500 MPa: The crimping method consists in heating the
Une troisième méthode de sertissage est utilisée lorsque les alliages sont difficilement sertissables par déformation plastique à froid ou à chaud. Ce mode consiste à utiliser la grande déformation élastique des alliages amorphes, typiquement 2% ou celle des alliages cristallins, typiquement 0.5 %. La méthode consiste à presser l'élément esthétique 3 dans le trou de sertissage 8 du substrat 6. Sous la pression, l'alliage métallique du substrat 6 se déforme élastiquement permettant à l'élément esthétique 3 de s'insérer. Lorsque les moyens d'accroche 5, se présentant sous la forme d'un évidement de sertissage, et le rondiste ou l'extrémité ou le bord 3a des éléments esthétiques 3 se trouvent en regard l'un de l'autre, un retour élastique s'opère. Le retour élastique des moyens d'accroche 5 sur l'élément esthétique 3 permet de maintenir définitivement celui-ci comme visible aux
Une quatrième méthode de sertissage est envisagée. Dans ce mode, le support 2 est chauffé thermiquement de façon à ce que tout le support se dilate c'est-à-dire le support 2 et le substrat 6 en alliage amorphe. Par conséquent, le trou de sertissage 8 se dilate également. Par conséquent, l'élément esthétique 3 peut être placé dans le trou de sertissage 8. L'élément esthétique 3 est ensuite maintenu dans le trou 8 par les moyens d'accroche 5 après refroidissement du support 2 comme visible aux
Une cinquième méthode de sertissage peut être envisagée spécifiquement pour les matériaux amorphes dans lequel la quatrième étape d) et la cinquième étape e) sont simultanées. Ce mode consiste à chauffer l'élément esthétique à une température supérieure à la température de transition vitreuse Tg du premier matériau puis à le presser dans celui-ci c'est-à-dire l'alliage métallique amorphe. La chaleur dégagée par ledit élément esthétique chauffe localement le substrat 6 jusqu'à une température supérieure à Tg qui permet à l'alliage métallique amorphe de voir baisser grandement sa viscosité facilitant ainsi l'insertion. Ensuite, une fois l'élément esthétique inséré, le substrat 6 est refroidi pour garder l'état amorphe de l'alliage et est ébavurée de tout surplus de matière. Cette étape permet ainsi une meilleure accroche de l'élément esthétique 3 dans le substrat 6 grâce à la capacité de l'alliage métallique amorphe à bien épouser les contours.A fifth method of crimping can be envisaged specifically for amorphous materials in which the fourth step d) and the fifth step e) are simultaneous. This mode consists of heating the aesthetic element to a temperature above the glass transition temperature Tg of the first material and then pressing it therein, that is to say the amorphous metal alloy. The heat released by said aesthetic element locally heats the
Une sixième méthode de sertissage dans lequel la troisième c), quatrième d) et cinquième étape e) sont simultanées est envisagée. Cette variante consiste à prévoir que l'élément esthétique 3 soit directement placé dans la creusure 4 avant l'étape de remplissage de ladite creusure 4 par le premier matériau. Le remplissage de la creusure 4 se fait alors par coulée, par formage à chaud, par électroformage ou par densification dont les détails ont été expliqués précédemment. Cette technique permet d'avoir un procédé de sertissage plus rapide tout en assurant un bon maintien des éléments esthétiques 3.A sixth crimping method in which the third (c), fourth (d) and fifth (e) are simultaneous is contemplated. This variant consists in providing that the
Un avantage de l'invention est qu'elle permet de sertir n'importe quel type de matériaux. En effet, le principe utilisé est un principe de pièce rapportée c'est-à-dire qu'un substrat en matériau pouvant accepter une déformation est rapporté dans un matériau non déformable plastiquement de sorte à permettre un sertissage et à donner l'illusion que c'est ce matériau non déformable plastiquement qui est serti.An advantage of the invention is that it can crimp any type of material. Indeed, the principle used is an insert principle that is to say that a substrate material capable of accepting a deformation is reported in a material that is not plastically deformable so as to allow crimping and to give the illusion that it is this non-plastically deformable material that is crimped.
Dans une première variante visible à la
Dans le cas où le premier matériau est un alliage métallique amorphe, la faible viscosité du matériau amorphe permet de bien remplir la creusure 4. Par analogie, cette faible viscosité du matériau amorphe permet également de mieux remplir les évidements 51 ou de mieux envelopper les excroissances 52.In the case where the first material is an amorphous metal alloy, the low viscosity of the amorphous material makes it possible to fill the hollow 4 well. By analogy, this low viscosity of the amorphous material makes it possible to fill the hollow. also to better fill the
Ces évidements 51 ou excroissances 52 peuvent être situés sur les flancs verticaux 7 de la creusure 4 ou au niveau du fond 7a de la creusure 4. De même, les évidements 51 peuvent être traversant ou non.These
On comprendra que diverses modifications et/ou améliorations et/ou combinaisons évidentes pour l'homme du métier peuvent être apportées aux différents modes de réalisation de l'invention exposée ci-dessus sans sortir du cadre de l'invention défini par les revendications annexées.It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements and / or combinations obvious to those skilled in the art can be made to the various embodiments of the invention set forth above without departing from the scope of the invention defined by the appended claims.
Claims (22)
- Decorative piece including a support (2) made of a material having no usable plastic deformation in which at least one hollow (4) is arranged, characterized in that said hollow is filled with a first at least partially amorphous metal material forming a substrate (6) in which at least one housing (8) is arranged, said at least one housing being arranged so that at least one aesthetic element (3) can be housed therein, said substrate further including gripping means (5) deforming to retain said at least one aesthetic element inside said at least one housing, said gripping means (5) including at least one setting element (9) taking the form of a stud or of a bead.
- Decorative piece according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least one hollow includes vertical flanks (7) to improve the retention of each aesthetic element in the support.
- Decorative piece according to claim 2, characterized in that said at least one hollow includes flanks (7) arranged so that the surface area of the hollow increases with the depth of the hollow.
- Decorative piece according to claim 2, characterized in that said at least one hollow includes flanks arranged so that the surface area of the hollow decreases with the depth of the hollow.
- Decorative piece according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one hollow includes retaining means (50) extending from one of the walls of the hollow to retain the first material inside said hollow.
- Decorative piece according to claim 5, characterized in that the retaining means take the form of at least one recess (51).
- Decorative piece according to claim 5, characterized in that the retaining means take the form of at least one through recess (51).
- Decorative piece according to claim 5, characterized in that the retaining means take the form of at least one protuberance (52).
- Decorative piece according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first material is a completely amorphous metal material.
- Decorative piece according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first material includes at least one element which is of the precious type, comprised in the list including gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
- Decorative piece according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the distance between the aesthetic element (3) and one edge of the hollow (4) is at least 0.01 mm.
- Decorative piece according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the height of the housing (8) is at least equal to the height of the culet of the aesthetic element.
- Method for setting at least one aesthetic element on a support including the steps of:a) taking a support (2) provided with at least one hollow (4);b) taking at least one aesthetic element (3);c) filling said hollow with a first at least partially amorphous metal material;d) making at least one setting hole (8) and gripping means (5) in the first material, the gripping means (5) including at least one setting element (9) taking the form of a stud or of a bead;e) setting said at least one aesthetic element by placing it in said at least one hole and plastically deforming the gripping means (5) to retain said aesthetic element.
- Setting method according to claim 13, characterized in that the first material includes at least one element which is of the precious type, comprised in the list including gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
- Setting method according to claims 13 or 14, characterized in that the first material is completely amorphous.
- Setting method according to any of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that step c) consists in depositing said first material by electroforming.
- Setting method according to any of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that step c) consists in filling the hollow by casting.
- Setting method according to any of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that step c) consists in filling the hollow by hot forming.
- Setting method according to any of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that step c) consists in filling the hollow by pressing in a substrate.
- Setting method according to claim 19, characterized in that step c) intended to fill the hollow by pressing in consists in heating the support (2) in order to expand it thermally and increasing the dimensions of the hollow, then placing the substrate (6) inside the hollow and finally cooling to contract the support (2).
- Setting method according to any of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that step c) consists in filling the hollow by powder densification.
- Method according to any of claims 13 to 21, wherein plastic deformation is achieved by heating the studs or the beads to a temperature higher than the vitreous transition temperature of the first at least partially amorphous metal material.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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EP13811227.1A EP2934221B1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2013-12-19 | Decorative part made by crimping |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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EP12199279 | 2012-12-21 | ||
EP13165603.5A EP2796066A1 (en) | 2013-04-26 | 2013-04-26 | Decorative part made by crimping |
PCT/EP2013/077495 WO2014096260A1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2013-12-19 | Decorative piece produced by crimping |
EP13811227.1A EP2934221B1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2013-12-19 | Decorative part made by crimping |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP2934221A1 EP2934221A1 (en) | 2015-10-28 |
EP2934221B1 true EP2934221B1 (en) | 2017-03-22 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
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EP13811227.1A Active EP2934221B1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2013-12-19 | Decorative part made by crimping |
Country Status (6)
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US (4) | US10212995B2 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2934221B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP6078168B2 (en) |
CN (3) | CN104936478B (en) |
HK (3) | HK1212176A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2014096260A1 (en) |
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2013
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- 2013-12-19 EP EP13811227.1A patent/EP2934221B1/en active Active
- 2013-12-19 CN CN201510550145.3A patent/CN105167342B/en active Active
- 2013-12-19 JP JP2015548594A patent/JP6078168B2/en active Active
- 2013-12-19 WO PCT/EP2013/077495 patent/WO2014096260A1/en active Application Filing
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2015
- 2015-06-26 US US14/752,286 patent/US20150289612A1/en not_active Abandoned
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2016
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2020
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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US20150289612A1 (en) | 2015-10-15 |
CN104936478B (en) | 2018-04-10 |
US20150327635A1 (en) | 2015-11-19 |
US10206464B2 (en) | 2019-02-19 |
HK1217615A1 (en) | 2017-01-20 |
WO2014096260A1 (en) | 2014-06-26 |
EP2934221A1 (en) | 2015-10-28 |
US10212995B2 (en) | 2019-02-26 |
CN105077867B (en) | 2018-01-09 |
CN105077867A (en) | 2015-11-25 |
US20150289613A1 (en) | 2015-10-15 |
CN105167342A (en) | 2015-12-23 |
JP2016506264A (en) | 2016-03-03 |
US20200305561A1 (en) | 2020-10-01 |
CN104936478A (en) | 2015-09-23 |
JP6078168B2 (en) | 2017-02-08 |
HK1217616A1 (en) | 2017-01-20 |
CN105167342B (en) | 2018-12-18 |
HK1212176A1 (en) | 2016-06-10 |
US11229264B2 (en) | 2022-01-25 |
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