Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/47—Euphorbiaceae (Spurge family), e.g. Ricinus (castorbean)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08B—POLYSACCHARIDES; DERIVATIVES THEREOF
  • C08B31/00—Preparation of derivatives of starch
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08B—POLYSACCHARIDES; DERIVATIVES THEREOF
  • C08B31/00—Preparation of derivatives of starch
  • C08B31/003—Crosslinking of starch
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08B—POLYSACCHARIDES; DERIVATIVES THEREOF
  • C08B37/00—Preparation of polysaccharides not provided for in groups C08B1/00 - C08B35/00; Derivatives thereof
  • C08B37/0006—Homoglycans, i.e. polysaccharides having a main chain consisting of one single sugar, e.g. colominic acid
  • C08B37/0009—Homoglycans, i.e. polysaccharides having a main chain consisting of one single sugar, e.g. colominic acid alpha-D-Glucans, e.g. polydextrose, alternan, glycogen; (alpha-1,4)(alpha-1,6)-D-Glucans; (alpha-1,3)(alpha-1,4)-D-Glucans, e.g. isolichenan or nigeran; (alpha-1,4)-D-Glucans; (alpha-1,3)-D-Glucans, e.g. pseudonigeran; Derivatives thereof
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F251/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
  • C12P—FERMENTATION OR ENZYME-USING PROCESSES TO SYNTHESISE A DESIRED CHEMICAL COMPOUND OR COMPOSITION OR TO SEPARATE OPTICAL ISOMERS FROM A RACEMIC MIXTURE
  • C12P19/00—Preparation of compounds containing saccharide radicals
  • C12P19/14—Preparation of compounds containing saccharide radicals produced by the action of a carbohydrase (EC 3.2.x), e.g. by alpha-amylase, e.g. by cellulase, hemicellulase
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
  • A61K2236/30—Extraction of the material
  • A61K2236/39—Complex extraction schemes, e.g. fractionation or repeated extraction steps

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient which is an articulated polymer of glucans obtained from Maniho ⁇ esculenta, and to its use on the skin for a tightening effect.
• the invention also relates to the process for obtaining this active ingredient, the cosmetic compositions including it, and a cosmetic treatment method for a lifting and smoothing effect of the skin.
• these cosmetic treatments also usually incorporate tensor ingredients, which form a three-dimensional mesh on the surface of the skin. skin and bring an immediate feeling as well as rejuvenating surface effects smoothing and lifting instantaneous. The skin is toned, tightened and smoothed immediately and appears visibly sublimated and younger.
• Tensors of the synthetic polymer type are known first of all, but these have numerous drawbacks. They are particularly sticky and often difficult to formulate because only soluble in alcohol.
• proteins derived from vegetable raw materials have the advantage of being derived from Natural raw materials and are soluble in water.
• some cosmetic companies may wish to not use protein.
• the patent F -2882366 describes in particular crosslinked polymers of carbohydrates, obtained by crosslinking reaction on the primary alcohol function of the carbohydrates.
• the described active agents are not very stable in an aqueous medium and can not be formulated in all types of cosmetic compositions.
• patent FR-2908135 also describes a process for obtaining, from natural materials rich in carbohydrates, saccharide polymers having a good tensor efficiency.
• the saccharide polymers obtained are not physically stable in the presence of conventional cosmetic ingredients, such as certain preservatives (for example phenoxyethanol) or stabilizers of cosmetic formulas (such as ethylhexylglycerine or pentylene glycol).
• preservatives for example phenoxyethanol
• stabilizers of cosmetic formulas such as ethylhexylglycerine or pentylene glycol
• the present invention proposes to use a particular saccharide biopolymer obtained from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta.
• the invention aims in particular at the use of at least one articulated copolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents obtained from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta as a cosmetic active having a cutaneous tensor effect.
• this saccharide biopolymer has an immediate and instantaneous tightening effect. Its structure in the form of a three-dimensional network of high molecular weight articulated and pre-organized is anchored on the surface of the skin and quickly forms a viscoelastic and f ilmogenic film capable of spreading and adapting perfectly to the microrelief for an immediate lifting and smoothing effect.
• the active ingredient according to the invention can be integrated into a wide range of formulations.
• polymers are substances whose structures result mainly in the repetition of low molecular weight units, called monomers, connected to each other by covalent bonds.
• a polymer of natural origin or obtained from monomers of natural origin is called "biopolymer” in the context of the present invention.
• glucan polymer or “biopolymer of glucans” is meant a copolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents (at least one copolymerization agent, preferably two).
• articulated polymer as opposed to linear polymers, are branched polymers. Some monomers have branched structures or some monomers have the property of being able to bind to at least three other monomers during the polymerization step.
• An articulated polymer is therefore a polymer formed of elements that can move thanks to their bonds. The joints of the glucan polymer promote anchoring to the skin surface and forming a fogogenic viscoelastic film.
• the invention also relates to a specific cosmetic active ingredient in the form of an articulated biopolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents obtained from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta and its method of production.
• the invention also relates to cosmetic compositions including between 0.01% and 20% of an articulated biopolymer of glucans derived from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta. These compositions may be in any form allowing the application topically.
• the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic skin care process intended to instantly stretch and smooth the skin, comprising the application of topical composition of a composition comprising at least one articulated copolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihof esculenta.
• topical composition of a composition comprising at least one articulated copolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihof esculenta.
• the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an articulated biopolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihof esculenta as a skin tensor cosmetic active ingredient.
• the invention relates to the use of an articulated polymer of glucans obtained from Manihof esculenta as active ingredient for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to provide an immediate tightening effect of the skin.
• the particular saccharide polymer according to the invention is capable of anchoring strongly on the surface of the skin and becoming éga er in order to fit perfectly to the cutaneous microrelief so as to form a continuous and lifting film.
• the specific saccharide biopolymers of the invention have the advantage of being incorporated into different types of cosmetic formula. Indeed they are soluble in water, in 20% ethanol, they are physically stable in the presence of cosmetic ingredients such as preservatives or stabilizers, not sensitive to variations in pH and temperature and do not have the disadvantages of synthetic polymers that are sticky and shiny effects on the skin.
• the invention specifically targets the use in a cosmetic composition of a cosmetic active ingredient in the form of an articulated polymer of glucans obtained from Maniho esculenta, said active ingredient and / or said composition being intended (s) to smooth the microrelief, fill wrinkles, tone and / or tighten the skin.
• the invention relates to the use of an active ingredient as described below.
• the invention also relates to a particular cosmetic active ingredient in the form of an articulated copolymer of glucans and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta.
• the copolymerization agent makes it possible to obtain flexible joints of the three-dimensional network which confer the tensor, film-forming and spreading properties of the polymer.
• the degree of copolymerization plays an important role in the strength and cohesion of the film.
• the ratio of the content of molecules derived from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta with respect to the content of copolymerizing agents is greater than 55%.
• the active ingredient according to the invention has a mean molecular weight between values of 7,000 and 300,000 Da, preferably an average molecular weight of 74,000 Da.
• the active ingredient according to the invention may be in the form of a clear yellow liquid. It can be defined by at least one of the features described below, preferably all.
• the dry matter content of an active ingredient according to the invention (measured by passing in an oven at 105 ° C. in the presence of sand of a sample of initial weight given until a constant weight is obtained) can be between 50 and 180 g / 1, preferably between 80 and 120 g / l.
• the pH (measured by the potentiometric method at ambient temperature) can be between 3.0 and 5.0, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0.
• the determination of the total sugar content can be carried out by the method of
• DUBOIS DUBOIS M. et al., (1956), Analytical Chemistry, 28, No. 3, pp. 350-356.
• the reducing sugars give an orange-yellow compound. From a standard range, the total sugar content of a sample can be determined.
• the total sugar content of an active ingredient according to the invention is preferably between 32 and 117 g / l, more preferably between 52 and 78 g / l.
• the total sugar content can also be expressed as a percentage relative to the dry matter. It is preferably between 43% and 95%.
• the simple sugar composition of the active ingredient determined by ionic liquid chromatography is 100% glucose.
• ⁇ -amylase releases about 40% of glucose present in the active principle according to the invention.
• This enzyme cuts the ⁇ -1,4 bonds between two glucose molecules. Thus, 40% of the glucose molecules are linked at a-1,4 only, they have no branches.
• the active ingredient according to the invention has:
• the active ingredient according to the invention consists of glucans with an average molar mass of 74,000 Da. These polysaccharides contain ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose chains having branching at about 1.6% to 30%.
• the active ingredient according to the invention as described above can be obtained by a process comprising at least the following succession of steps:
• solubilization adjuvant preferably a salt, a polyphosphate and / or an oxidant, to facilitate the solubilization of the polysaccharides
• the two enzymes used for the two successive enzymatic hydrolyses are carbohydrases.
• it is a-amylase, ⁇ -amylase, glucoamylase, cellulase, amyloglucosidase, ⁇ -galactosidase, ⁇ -glucanase, inulinase, pectinase, xylanase, arabanase, hemicellulase, rhamnogalacturonase, polygalacturonase, pectinesterase, hemicellulase, galacturonase.
• the hydrolysis step makes it possible to recover glucans from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta.
• the two copolymerization agents used having at least one unsaturated ethylene functional group are chosen from polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyvinyls and polyallylics.
• the ratio of the content of molecules derived from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta with respect to the content of copolymerizing agents is greater than 55%.
• the polymerization initiator may be chosen from photoinitiators, redox agents and thermal agents.
• This method makes it possible to obtain an articulated biopolymer of glucans in the form of a three-dimensional network having an immediate cutaneous tensor effect, and which can be easily formulated because of its compatibility with the other components of the cosmetic compositions.
• the present invention also covers cosmetic compositions including at least one articulated biopolymer of glucans obtained from Maniho esculenta, in particular an active ingredient as described above, in different galenic forms, adapted for topical administration to the skin.
• compositions may in particular be in a form chosen from the group consisting of an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or in a tube, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a measuring or aerosol flask, an ampoule, an ointment, a foam, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid.
• compositions are preferably compositions containing between 0.01 and 20%, by weight of an active ingredient in the form of an articulated biopolymer of glucans obtained from Manihot esculenta, preferably between 1% and 7%.
• compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause feelings of unacceptable discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.
• compositions according to the invention may contain as adjuvant at least one compound chosen from preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture, gloss agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances and sunscreens.
• excipients are preferably chosen from the group comprising amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases and sucrose stabilizers.
• vitamins E and its derivatives natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, natural tocopherols, glycerine, sodium dihydroxy ethyl isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononoyan, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol,
• the articulated biopolymer of glucans obtained from Manihot esculenta according to the invention is stable in aqueous medium and in 20% ethanol, and has a very good compatibility and stability with the aforementioned adjuvants type preservatives or stabilizers.
• compositions according to the invention when applied to the skin, make it possible to provide an immediate tightening effect. They can be used to smooth the microrelief, fill wrinkles, tone and / or stretch the skin visibly and quickly for an instant burst.
• the invention aims at a cosmetic process for the care of human skin, intended to smooth the microrelief, fill in wrinkles, tone and / or stretch the skin, comprising the topical application of a composition comprising an articulated glucan copolymer and copolymerization agents obtained from Manihot esculenta, in particular a composition containing between 0.01 and 20% or even between 1 and 7% by weight of an active ingredient in the form of an articulated biopolymer of glucans obtained from Manihot esculenta according to the present invention.
• a nonlimiting example of a process for obtaining an active ingredient in the form of an articulated biopolymer of glucans obtained from Maniho ⁇ escu / enta is presented following, as well as examples of compositions including such an active principle. .
• An example of a process for obtaining an active ingredient according to the invention comprises the implementation of the following steps:
• the average molecular weight of the articulated glucan polymer 74,000 Da.
• the average molecular weight of the copolymer is determined by HPLC analysis on Polymer Laboratories (Vanan) PL aquagel-OH 60 columns, aquagel-OH 40 and aquagel-OH 30 and an RI detector.
• the use of reference molecules makes it possible to calibrate and evaluate the average molecular weight of the glucan polymer.
• Example 2 Use of an active ingredient according to the invention in a mild fluid Phase A. Water qs 100%
• This creamy white emulsified gel has a pH of 6.7.
• Example 3 Use of an Active Ingredient According to the Invention in a Light Cream
• This fluid white emulsion has a pH of 6.
• This emulsion can be obtained by carrying out the following steps:
• Example 4 Use of an active ingredient according to the invention in a light cream Phase A. Water qs 100%
• This unctuous creamy white gel has a pH of 6.5.
• This gel can be obtained by carrying out the following steps:
• Example 5 Use of an active ingredient according to the invention in a thick cream
• This thick white emulsion has a pH of 5.4.
• Example 6 Use of an Active Ingredient According to the Invention in a Foundation
• This colored, flexible and unctuous emulsion has a pH of 5.6.
• Example 7 Use of an Active Ingredient According to the Invention in a Sprayable Lotion
• Phase E NaOH qsp pH 6.2
• the amounts indicated are given in percentage by weight.
• This white liquid emulsion has a pH of 6.2.
• Example 8 Use of an Active Principle According to the Invention in a Foam Cream Phase A. Carbopol ETD 2050 (Novéon) 0.4%
• This creamy emulsion has a pH of 6.
• the aim is to compare the cosmetic formulability and the tensor efficiency of Maniho ⁇ escu / ent carbohydrate copolymers obtained from two copolymerization agents.
• Cosmetic formability is evaluated by observing the compatibility of the product obtained with a conventional cosmetic preservative (phenoxyethanol type).
• the cosmetic efficacy is determined by analysis of the tensor effect.
• the cosmetic composition used in vivo is that of Example 2.
• This study aims to evaluate in vivo against placebo the tensing effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 4% in a gel-emulsified 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application.
• the study was conducted on two groups of female SAM volunteers:
• Cutometer® measurements are made at these two areas and the products are applied.
• an active ingredient according to the invention in comparison with placebo, 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application, increases the parameters of the tension of the skin: both total elongation and immediate extensibility.
• This study aims to evaluate in vivo against placebo the smoothing effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 4% in a gel-emulsified 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application.
• the evaluation consists of making silicone polymer impressions at the forearms before and after treatment, then performing a fringe projection analysis (volume acquisition of the impressions using a dedicated fringe projection device). to the 3D measurement of the relief of the imprints).
• the parameters selected for this study are 3D roughness parameters:
• Fingerprints are made on each of the zones and the products are applied. Between ⁇ 0 and ⁇ 30min or tlh, the volunteers wait in a controlled room temperature and hygrometry.
• an active ingredient according to the invention in comparison with placebo, 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application, reduces the 3D roughness parameters characteristic of the skin microrelief Sa and Sq. smoothing of the microrelief of the skin.
• This study aims to evaluate in vivo against placebo immediate anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 4% in a gel-emulsified 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application.
• the evaluation consists in making 3D acquisitions by projection of fringes of the crow's feet before and after treatment.
• the parameters selected for this study are:
• a volume parameter the negative volume that corresponds to the volume below the surface of the skin.
• a decrease in these two parameters is characteristic of a smoothing of the relief of the studied surface and a reduction of wrinkles.
• an active ingredient according to the invention in comparison with placebo, 30 minutes and 1 hour after a single application, smooths and attenuates wrinkles by reducing both the surface roughness (Sa) and the negative volume.
• Tests have also been carried out to evaluate the possible influence of various parameters on the effectiveness of the active principle according to the invention: the time, the dose, the treated area, the formulation and the age.
• the cosmetic composition used in vivo is that of Example 2.
• the objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo against placebo the influence of time on the tensing effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 4% gel-emulsified.
• the operating protocol is that described in B.I /.
• the active ingredient according to the invention has a significant tensor effect from 30 minutes after a single application. This effect is maximal 2 hours after the application and is still significant after 4 hours.
• the objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo against placebo the influence of time on the anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 4% gel-emulsified 5 minutes, 30 minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours after a single application. 3D acquisitions by projection of fringes of the crow's feet were made before and after treatment.
• the operating protocol is that described in B.III /.
• the active ingredient according to the invention tends to reduce the characteristic parameters of the cutaneous relief from 5 minutes after a single application and becomes significant after 30 minutes. This effect is maximum 1 hour after application and extends significantly up to 2 hours.
• the objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo versus placebo the influence of the dose of active ingredient according to the invention formulated in gel-emulsified on the tensor effect.
• the operating protocol is that described in B.I /.
• the active ingredient according to the invention has a significant immediate tensor effect from 2% of use and that this effect increases with the dose. In the conditions of this study it is maximum to 7%.
• the objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo versus placebo the immediate tensor effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated at 4% gel-emulsified. Measurements were made on different skin areas (at aru-bv s and face) using a Cuto lights ® 1 hour after a single application.
• the operating protocol is that described in B.I /.
• the active ingredient according to the invention is capable of increasing the characteristic parameters of the tension of the skin on the face and on the body, 1 hour after a single application.
• the objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo against placebo the influence of the formulation on the immediate tensor effect of an active ingredient according to the invention.
• the operating protocol is that described in B.I /.
• the active ingredient according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the characteristic parameters of the skin tension 1 hour after a single application, in different types of cosmetic formulations.
• the objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo against placebo the immediate anti-wrinkle effect of an active ingredient according to the invention formulated with 4% emulsified gel on different age groups compared to placebo, 1 hour after a single application.
• 3D acquisitions by projection of fringes of the crow's feet were made before and after treatment.
• active ingredient group consisting of 21 volunteers of average age 42 ⁇ 5 years
• the operating protocol is that described in B.III /.
• the active ingredient according to the invention significantly decreases the characteristic parameters of skin wrinkles 1 hour after a single application irrespective of the age of the volunteers.
• the active ingredient according to the invention has a fast and significant tensor effect at 30 minutes and 1 hour after its application and is still significant at least 4 hours later.
• This tensor effect is dose dependent, measurable on the face and body, whether formulated in gel, gel-emulsified or emulsion.
• the active ingredient according to the invention also has immediate smoothing and anti-wrinkle properties which make it possible to visibly fill wrinkles on young and mature skin.
• the active ingredient according to the invention remains stable and that it is not sensitive to variations in pH.
• the active ingredient according to the invention is stable at least until
• the active ingredient according to the invention is stable vis-à-vis commonly used cosmetic raw materials.
• Emulsified gel Nonionic emulsion:
• the active ingredient tensor cosmetic according to the invention besides its effectiveness, also has performance in terms of formability: it is stable in water and in ethanol at 20%, it is not sensitive to changes in pH and temperature, it is compatible with materials commonly used in cosmetics.

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• 2010
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