EP2618687A1

EP2618687A1 - Thermofusible interfacing and use

Info

Publication number: EP2618687A1
Application number: EP11751537.9A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ulrich Scherbel; Peter Grynaeus; Oliver Staudenmayer; Holger KÖHNLEIN
Original assignee: Carl Freudenberg KG
Current assignee: Carl Freudenberg KG
Priority date: 2010-09-24
Filing date: 2011-07-27
Publication date: 2013-07-31
Also published as: CN103124503A; AR082506A1; KR20130099266A; JP2013543544A; TW201233351A; DE102010046386A1; WO2012037997A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a thermofusible interfacing, which comprises a substrate layer, in particular made of a textile material, and a coating made of an adhesive mass. According to the invention, the adhesive mass is designed such that said adhesive mass loses the adhesiveness thereof under the influence of steam.

Description

Applicant: Carl Freudenberg KG, 69469 Weinheim

Thermally fixable interlining material and use

Description Technical area

The Eriindung relates to a thermally fixable interlining material, comprising a carrier layer, in particular of a textile fabric, and a

Coating with an adhesive. Furthermore, the invention relates to a preferred use of a thermally fixable interlining material according to the invention.

PRIOR ART The production of jackets and blazers took place exclusively in the tailoring industry until the 1960s. The liner inserts used were uncoated fabrics based on animal hair in warp and weft, mainly in weft. All inserts used were close-in inserts which were loosely inserted or stapled. The process, which continues to some extent today in the traditional-classical and high-quality tailoring, is very time, cost and labor intensive.

With the invention of coated, bondable interlining materials, especially for products in which the adhesive composition is applied punctiform, was the

CONFIRMATION COPY The manufacturing process in the sewing industry has changed fundamentally. The production of clothing changed from a traditional, artisanal tailoring craft to an industrial manufacturing. The cost per garment could be significantly reduced.

Today, the inner part of a jacket or Blazers consists of an insert for planar fixation of the front part and to support the shape of the shoulder and chest area of a placket insert, which can also be glued. Other interlayers may be added to the construction. This method has been established for many years and there has been no change in the existing concept for over 30 years.

Despite continued improvements in adhesive bonding dots and liners in general, the industrial jackets or blazers have yet to reach the level of quality in terms of soft hand properties of a garment traditionally made by a tailor with a non-fixed placket liner. Non-glued, but only pickled plackets still offer an unmatched soft grip failure and unmatched shape. Due to the high production costs, however, they are only used today in the upper premium segment.

Presentation of the invention

The invention is based on the object, a thermally fixable

To provide a liner which allows the advantages of loosely placed plackets in terms of grip and styling with the

To combine the cost advantages of an industrial clothing manufacturing while simplifying the production of prefabricated jacket parts. This object is achieved with a thermally fixable Einlagestoff with all features of claim 1. Preferred uses are found in claims 13 to 15. The subclaims relate to preferred embodiments of the invention.

According to the invention it is provided that in a thermally fixable

Einlagestoff which a carrier layer, in particular of a textile

Sheet, and a coating of an adhesive composition comprises forming the adhesive composition so that it loses its adhesiveness under the action of steam.

Preferably, the adhesive composition is formed so that it under the action of steam at a vapor temperature of 100 ° C to 180 ° C, preferably from 00 ° C to 160 ° C, and more preferably from 105 ° C to 120 ° C at a contact time of 5 s to 40 s, preferably from 10 s to 20 s loses its adhesiveness.

The advantage of the invention is that it combines a suitable light and leaky fibrous sheet as a carrier layer, in particular as a carrier layer of a placket insert, with a non-permanent coating. The resulting product can then be laminated to the outer fabric using industry-standard fixing methods. The parts can be manufactured easily and efficiently in this form industrially. During the steaming process, the adhesive coating dissolves from the outer fabric and the insert or the Plack is free to move. This gives the desired soft feel and

Shaping which is equivalent to a traditionally made blazer or Blazers.

As a carrier material according to the invention, in particular Plackträgermaterial, all today established types of fibers, today for interlining or as Plackeinlagen trained Einlagestoffe be used and their

Combination can be used. These are usually, but not

exclusively: cotton, viscose, polyester, polyamides, wool and stiff / nosed animal hair (such as goat hair, camel hair, horsehair)

However, preference is given to using polyester fibers or mixtures of polyester fibers with wool or viscose.

However, stiff pet hairs are less preferred because they can pierce the outer fabric.

Preferably, the carrier layer is formed as a tissue.

Preferred in the chain are polyester yarns, particularly preferred are textured polyester yarns. Specially the use of textured

Polyester yarns in the warp direction leads by the elasticity of the game z. B. to an adaptable plack on elastic and non-elastic

Face fabrics.

In the shot game with coarse polyester fibers or their blends with wool or viscose are preferred. These games contain coarse polyester fibers with a denier of 3 - 20 dtex, preferably 5-12 dtex and a staple length of 50-150 mm. In addition, multicomponent fibers with a titer of> 4dtex and a staple length> 50 mm can be used for high recoverability combined with low weight.

By different fiber titers in warp and weft can be the

Properties of the carrier layer vary. The weight of the carrier layer is preferably between 70 g / m ² - 280 g / m ² , more preferably between 90 g / m ² and 180 g / m ² and thus fits very well with today's fashionable lightweight outer fabrics. According to the invention, this carrier material is provided with an adhesive. The handle hardening, caused by the adhesive mass or the penetrating adhesive mass, is compensated by the low weight of the liner or the plack, when the carrier material is carried out in the preferred weight range.

Suitable adhesive compositions are substances which have a melting point of 60 ° C - 160 ° C, preferably 80 ° C - 110 ° C and when ironing the garment, after melting, a connection between the interlining, z. As the plack, and the outer fabric and preferably when steaming in the carrier layer z. B. penetrate the plaque and thus the

Loosen the composite so that the interlining fabric or the plack lies loosely in the garment (on).

Water-soluble fixable adhesive coatings for water-soluble embedding inlays are described in DE 100 32 769. In addition, there are fixable water-soluble adhesive compositions, e.g. in the shirt area, which are used on inlays (fleece) for the temporary retention of textile layers. In this case, before or during processing interlining material

Inlaid nonwoven fabric laminated together with an outer fabric in a fuser press, then the reinforced and unreinforced parts are joined together, sewn and shaped if necessary by forming straps. After a subsequent washing process, the adhesive coating is washed out, as a result of which the joined layers, and thus the garment, become more flexible and softer. But this process requires a wash, which is unsuitable or expensive for a jacket or blazer. For the application described adhesive polymers are therefore selected which melt during ironing and penetrate into the outer fabric and give a compound thereto. When vaporizing dissolves the connection between interlining or plack and outer fabric in the water vapor phase, the adhesive penetrates preferably into the interlining or plack. The im

Einlagestoff or Plack remaining adhesive mass contributes to the additional shaping of the liner or the plaque. For adhesive coating, the following application methods have been tested using the example of a plaque (the results, however, are not limited to plush, but can be transferred to any desired interlining material):

- scatter coating

- Hot-melt order

- Laminating a water-soluble hot melt adhesive nonwoven fabric

- Direct spinning of a hot melt spunbonded nonwoven fabric

- Paste dot coating

- Powder dot coating

- Colon coating or combinations of methods

- Ink-jet process

Depending on the type of application and printing technique used, the adhesive mass can be printed over the entire surface or else locally in patterns. The coated planks or interlinings can therefore be used for various purposes.

- Is the adhesive of the invention coated over the entire surface or applied with a large grid on the Plackeinlage, then with the resulting placket today's Frontfixiereinlage be replaced. This allows a rational and industrial clothing production. After the different ones Ironing processes dissolves the interlining material during steaming and you get as a result a garment with a loosely inserted Einlagestoff or Plack.

- Is the adhesive composition according to the invention in a pattern on the

Plackeinlage applied, then both the front fixing can be replaced, as well as the resulting insert for the simplified production of prefabricated Plackformteilen (preformati) are used. Here, the coating according to the invention replaces elaborate sewing and positioning processes.

- Likewise, the Einlagestoff invention can in making all

Type of moldings can be used as a positioning aid in which a release by steam is desired in the course of treatment. The fixation (bonding on the outer fabric or layers of textile in general) can be done on the usual in the clothing industry Fixierpressen, but also with the steam iron, on a steam press or on the molding press. Suitable adhesives / polymers for a scattering coating, a

Hotmelt application or a Doppelpunkt- or paste coating consist of modified (co) polyamides, modified polyvinyl alcohols, and / or (co) polyesters. The abovementioned polymers are modified in such a way that they are water-soluble or steam-soluble. Particular preference is given to polymers in which the modification in an ethoxylation of

(Co) polyamides and / or (co) polyester or in a degree of saponification of polyvinyl alcohol> 95%. Particularly preferred are polymers which are soluble in the adhesive at water temperatures of 10 to 40 ° C and easily in hot steam up and replace. The MVRieccder polymers or formulations is between 10 and 80, preferably between 30 and 50. Especially for a paste point coating or as a sub-item of one

Colon coating is also an aqueous polymer dispersion / - solution consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers. By adding polyols / polyglycols, the melting range of the polymer can be changed, lowered or the melt flow can be adapted to the applications. With the textile support materials could be easily fixable

Apply coatings that are easy to remove after processing.

The printing pastes are preferably made of polyvinyl pyrollidone

Polyethylene glycol (PEG) as a plasticizer in a proportion of 0 wt .-% - 20 wt%, preferably PEG 400 with a share of 2 wt .-% - 10 wt% and a proportion of 0 wt .-% - 10 wt% of Printing auxiliaries (dispersants, thickeners, ...).

The change in the melting properties of a printing paste based on polyvinylpyrollidone as a function of the softening additives, shown here using polyethylene glycol 400 as an example, reproduces the following table

It can be seen that as the amount of PEG 400 increases, the melting range decreases and the MFI values increase.

The applied quantities of adhesive applied to the plaque are preferably between 2 g / m ² and 15 g / m ² , more preferably between 3 g / m ² and 8 g / m ² and are preferably imprinted in dot form. The grid-shaped Dot pattern preferably has less than 180 dots per cm ² , but this specification is not limiting.

The polymer or the type of fiber / construction of the interlining material or the plaque is selected so that the polymer has an increased affinity for this and does not primarily penetrate into the outer material. The polymer of

molten / dissolved adhesive composition preferably has a strong inner cohesion after cooling, so that the adhesive composition to a

draws together a string of string-like structure. This results in no excessive hardening by a film-forming polymer structure.

The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to the exemplary embodiments: Exemplary embodiments: Example 1

With the formulations 2 to 6 listed in the table above by means of

Rotary screen-coated carrier layers (BW fabric base G 615) were fixed to various carriers under the fixing conditions given below. Subsequently, the separation forces were determined. This was done in the below as well as in the following

described examples according to DIN 54310 in the specified

Fixing conditions.

The values obtained in the separation force determination are listed in the table below. It can be seen that the separation forces achieved are not high, but are absolutely sufficient for the processing: Fixing conditions: 25 ° C / 15sec / 2.5b

ar base G 615

Formulation 2 3 4 5 6

Test substance release force [N / 5cm]

Shirt poplin 1,7 2,6 2,1 2,3 3,2

Cretonne 1.2 1.2 1.1 2.2 2.7

BW / Popeline 2.1 1.7 2.8 2.8 7.2

Example 2:

Backing material for a plack: fabric with chain: cotton / modal ne // weft: wool / viscose

Total composition: 16% CO 20% WO / 48% CV 16% MD

Basis weight: 155 g / m ²

This support material was printed with an adhesive composition analogous to Formulation 3 from Example 1 on a rotary screen printing machine with a circulation of 4 g / m ² and then dried. The stencil had a grid of CP 72.

The drying temperatures were 135 ° C -155 ° C. Total basis weight of the printed fixer was 159 g / m ² .

This material was fixed to a wool fabric at 121 ° C / 12 sec / 1, 0 bar (Kannegießer DX 1000). There was a release force after fixing of 5.2 N / 5cm.

This composite was steamed on a steam press with open cover 2x10 seconds. A release force was not measurable, because the fixer has dissolved from the outer fabric. The use of the insert according to the invention replaces the previous permanent front fixation. By using traditional Plack base material as a carrier material on the finished part is a pleasant handle with high

Bounce achieved.

Example 3:

Backing material for a plack: Fabric with chain: polyester textured // weft: polyester

Total composition: 100% PES; Basis weight: 115 g / m ²

This support material was coated with a polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) adhesive consisting of a modified PVA having a melting range of 105 ° C

- 110 ° C and a MFIieo _° c of 62 with a particle size distribution of> 0 μ

- 500 μ scattered with a gutter with 6 g / m ² .

The sintering in the dryer took place at 165.degree.

The total basis weight of the carrier layer with coating was 121 g / m ² .

This material was fixed at 121 ° C / 12 sec / 1.5 bar (Kannegießer DX 1000) to a wool / PES blend.

There was a release force after fixing of 3.72 N / 5cm.

This composite was steamed on a steam press with open cover 2x10 seconds. A release force after steaming was not measurable, because the fixer has dissolved from the outer fabric. The use of the thermally fixable interlining material according to the invention replaces the previous permanent front fixation. By using polyester, the finished product is washable. The textured polyester chain adapts to the dimensional changes of the outer fabric.

Example 4:

Carrier material for a plack: fabric with chain: polyester textured //

Weft: polyester / wool

Total composition: 70% PES / 30% wool; Basis weight: 115 g / m ²

The support material was applied to a 5g / m ² powder dot machine with a grid of CP 110 with a polyvinylalcoholic polyamide

(PVA) / polyvinyl acetate (PVAc) copolymer with a melting range of 90 ° C - 00 ° C and a MVR i6o ° c of .40 and with a> 0 pm - 200μιτι

Coated grain fraction.

The sintering took place in the IR channel. In the exit, the goods were flattened.

The total basis weight was 121 g / m ² .

This material was fixed at 121 ° C / 12sec / 0.5 bar (Kannegießer DX 1000) to a light seersucker outer fabric.

There was a release force after fixing of 3.72 N / 5cm. This composite was steamed on a steam press with open cover 2x10 seconds. A release force after steaming was not measurable, because the fixer has dissolved from the outer fabric. The use of the thermally fixable plack / interlining material according to the invention replaces the previous permanent front fixation with light and seersucker outer fabrics.

By using polyester, the finished product is washable. The textured polyester chain adapts to the dimensional changes of the outer fabric.

Example 5:

Carrier layer for a plack: fabric with chain: cotton / modal ne //

Weft: wool / viscose

Total composition: 16% CO 20% WO / 48% CV 16% MD;

Basis weight: 155 g / m ²

The plack backing was provided with a partial coating corresponding to the shape of the jacket portion with a dilute blend (5% solids) of Formulation 2 of Example 1 with a modified industrial ink-jet printing unit. The amount applied was only 1.2 g / m ² because of the only partial coating.

The total basis weight of the coated carrier layer was 155-158 g / m ² .

This material was fixed at 121 ° C / 12 sec / 0.5 bar (Kannegießer DX 1000) to a tailored plaque of the same composition as the Plack carrier material.

The release force after fixing was 2 N / 5 cm - 2.9 N / 5 cm at the coated sites. This compound dissolves in the steam press with open cover after 2x10 seconds of steaming.

The thermally fixable interlining material according to the invention can serve, for example, as a positioning aid for the production of prefabricated plastic parts (preformati).

Claims

claims

1. thermally fixable interlining material, comprising a carrier layer,

in particular of a textile fabric, and a coating with an adhesive mass, characterized in that the adhesive composition is formed so that it loses its adhesion under the action of steam.

2. Thermally fixable interlining material according to claim 1, characterized

characterized in that the adhesive mass is formed so that it under

Exposure of steam at a steam temperature of 100 ° C to 180 ° C, preferably from 100 ° C to 160 ° C, more preferably from 105 ° C to 120 ° C at a contact time of 5 s to 40 s, preferably from 10 s to 20 s loses its adhesion.

3. Thermally fixable interlining material according to claim 1 or 2, characterized

characterized in that the adhesive modified as polymers

(Co) polyamides, modified polyvinyl alcohols, and / or (co) polyesters or polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers.

4. Thermally fixable interlining material according to claim 3, characterized

characterized in that the adhesive composition is an addition of polyols /

Contains polyglycols.

5. thermally fixable interlining material according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the adhesive composition comprises polymers which are soluble in water at temperatures of 10 ° C to 40 ° C and in hot steam or be removed.

6. thermally fixable interlining material according to claim any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the adhesive composition comprises polymers whose MVR (Melt Volume Rangehe between 10 and 80, preferably between 30 and 50 is located.

7. Thermally fixable interlining fabric according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the carrier layer of cotton, viscose, polyester, polyamides, wool and / or stiff animal hair (such as goat hair, camel hair, horsehair) is made.

8. thermally fixable interlining material according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the basis weight of the carrier layer is preferably between 70 - 280 g / m ² , more preferably between 90g / m ² and 180 g / m ² .

9. thermally fixable interlining material according to claim 8, characterized

characterized in that the textile fabric is a fabric.

10. Thermally fixable interlining material according to claim 9, characterized

characterized in that in polyester warp yarn, more preferably textured polyester yarns, and in weft yarns with coarse

Polyester fibers and / or mixtures thereof are used with wool or viscose.

11. Thermally fixable interlining material according to claim 10, characterized

in that the coarse polyester fibers have a linear density of 3 dtex-20 dtex, preferably of 5 dtex -12 dtex and a staple length of 50 mm -150 mm.

12. thermally fixable interlining material according to 10 or 11, characterized in that in addition multicomponent fibers are used with a titer of> 4 dtex and a staple length> 50 mm.

13. Use of a thermally fixable fixable interlining material according to one of Anspüche 1 to 9 as a placket insert.

14. Use of a thermally fixable interlining material according to one of Anspüche 1 to 10 as Plackformteil.

15. Use of a thermally fixable interlining material according to any one of claims 1 to 11 as a positioning aid.