EP2582348A2 - Révélateur à deux phases - Google Patents

Révélateur à deux phases

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Publication number
EP2582348A2
EP2582348A2 EP10785081.0A EP10785081A EP2582348A2 EP 2582348 A2 EP2582348 A2 EP 2582348A2 EP 10785081 A EP10785081 A EP 10785081A EP 2582348 A2 EP2582348 A2 EP 2582348A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
phase
amino
agent
preparation
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP10785081.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marc Krippahl
Frank Janssen
Armin Wadle
Susanne Hagenow
Sabine Babiel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2582348A2 publication Critical patent/EP2582348A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids

Definitions

  • the present application is a cosmetic preparation for keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which is characterized by two separate phases, wherein one of the phases represents an aqueous phase and the other phase is a hydrophobic phase.
  • these agents are used as developer formulations for oxidation dyeings or lightening agents.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a process for color change keratinschreib fibers, wherein the color change agent according to the invention are applied to keratinic fibers.
  • oxidation colorants are used for permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties.
  • Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components which under the influence of oxidants or of atmospheric oxygen form the actual dyes with one another.
  • the oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain as dyeing component so-called substantive dyes ("direct drawers")
  • substantive dyes directly drawers
  • the dyes coloring the substrate are usually decolorized oxidatively using appropriate oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • oxidative hair treatment agents are disadvantageous to the user despite their advantageous coloring and / or lightening properties.
  • the use of oxidants leads to damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface. The hair becomes brittle, its elasticity decreases and the combability decreases. This damage increases with the duration of use.
  • oxidative colorants usually require an alkaline pH for coloration, in particular between pH 9.0 and pH 10.5.
  • the spread of the outer cuticle layer of the hair associated with the basic pH leads to an unpleasant surface sensation of the hair and thus to a deteriorated combability in the wet and dry state.
  • additional aftertreatment agents such as conditioning agents.
  • the hair structure is also affected by external environmental influences in the affected. These include mechanical and thermal effects, such as combing and blow-drying. Likewise, weather influences, such as wind, rain and UV radiation in sunlight, and additional external stresses, such as chlorinated swimming pool water or sweat, contribute to damage to the hair structure and the hair surface.
  • special post-treatment after the color-changing treatment.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves combability, hold and fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.
  • a complicating factor here is that many of the customary care and active ingredients for reducing hair damage under the oxidative, strongly alkaline conditions of a hair treatment agent are only insufficiently stable.
  • a first aspect of the present invention is therefore a keratin fiber treatment cosmetic characterized by comprising at least two distinct phases, the first phase (I) being an aqueous phase containing at least one chemical oxidant and wherein the second phase (II) is a hydrophobic phase containing at least one carboxylic acid ester of C 2 -C 8 monoalkanol with a mono- or dicarboxylic acid and / or at least one paraffin oil.
  • keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • Decisive feature of the preparation according to the invention is the two-phase, wherein the two phases are not miscible with each other.
  • the two phases are in two layers one above the other with direct contact via a common interface to each other.
  • the phase (I) is preferably at least equal to the weight fraction as the phase (II).
  • phase (I) is present in excess.
  • the weight ratio of phase (I) to phase (II) has a value of 99 to 1 to 50 to 50, preferably from 98 to 2 to 70 to 30, more preferably from 95 to 5 to 80 to 20.
  • the first phase (I) comprises an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • the first phase (I) contains at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
  • chemical oxidant is intended to clarify that this is an extra oxidant added and not an ambient oxidant, such as atmospheric oxygen, for example.Oxygen is preferably hydrogen peroxide used as the oxidant according to the invention Solution or in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidinone n H 2 0 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide aqueous phases (I) contain aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect The aqueous phase used is, for example, 3% by weight to 12% by weight solutions in water.
  • An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the chemical oxide
  • the preparations according to the invention particularly preferably comprise hydrogen peroxide.
  • agents according to the invention for the color change of keratinic fibers are particularly preferred, which
  • the second phase (II) is hydrophobic in nature.
  • the hydrophobic phase (II) according to the invention is immiscible with the aqueous phase (I) containing the oxidizing agent.
  • Hydrophobic phases also called lipophilic phases, contain fatty bodies, which usually contain nonpolar organic compounds such as hydrocarbon compounds, long-chain triglycerides, silicone oils, esters or ethers and perhalogenated compounds.
  • the hydrophobic phase (II) of the present invention is characterized in that it contains at least one liquid carboxylic acid ester of C 2 -C 8 monoalkanol with a mono- or dicarboxylic acid and / or at least one paraffinol.
  • liquid refers to carboxylic esters and / or paraffin oils which are liquid at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • Suitable carboxylic acid esters according to the invention are those which have no solubility or only a very low solubility in water, ie a water solubility of less than 1 g per 1 L of water under standard conditions.
  • liquid carboxylic acid esters of the hydrophobic phase (II) according to the invention are derived from C 2 -C 8 monoalkanols with a mono- or dicarboxylic acid.
  • C 2 -C 8 monoalkanols examples include ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol (1-methylethanol), 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 2-methylpropan-2-ol (tert-butanol), 2-methylpropane-1 ol (isobutanol), 1-pentane
  • Suitable monocarboxylic acids are saturated fatty acids such as decanoic acid, dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid) and 16-methylheptadecanoic acid (isostearic acid), unsaturated fatty acids such as palmitoleic acid (C16: 1, 9Z), Oleic acid (C18: 1; 9Z), elaidic acid (C18: 1; 9E), eicosenoic acid (gondoic acid; C20: 1; 1 1Z), linoleic acid (C18: 2, 9Z, 12Z), ⁇ - (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18 :
  • saturated fatty acids such as decanoic acid, dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexa
  • suitable dicarboxylic acids are saturated dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular succinic acid (ethane-1, 2-dicarboxylic acid, succinic acid), glutaric acid (propane-1, 3-dicarboxylic acid), adipic acid (butane-1, 4-dicarboxylic acid) and sebacic acid (Octane-1, 8-dicarboxylic acid).
  • Preferred compounds are ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate (IPL), butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, ethyl hexyl laurate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate (IPM), butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, ethylhexyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate (IPP), butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, Ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate (IPS), butyl stearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostear
  • a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the carboxylic acid ester of the hydrophobic phase (II) is an ester of C 3 -C 4 monoalkanol with a mono- or dicarboxylic acid.
  • isopropanol and butan-1-ol are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred carboxylic acid esters are therefore selected from the group formed from isopropyl laurate (IPL), butyl laurate, isopropyl myristate (IPM), butyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate (IPP), butyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate (IPS), butyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate (IPIS), butyl isostearate , Isopropyl oleate (IPO), butyl oleate, diisopropyl succinate, dibutyl succinate, diisopropyl glutarate, dibutyl glutarate, diisopropyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacinate and dibutyl sebacinate.
  • IPL isopropyl laurate
  • IPM isopropyl myristate
  • IPM isopropyl myristate
  • IPP isopropyl palmitate
  • dibutyl adipate isopropyl myristate
  • Crodamar IPM Stepan IPM or Lexol IPM NF or Rilanit IPP or Nikkol IPP
  • Cetiol B dibutyl adipate
  • a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the carboxylic acid ester of the hydrophobic phase (II) is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and dibutyl adipate.
  • Paraffin oils are not water-soluble and are therefore also suitable as hydrophobic phase (II) in the biphasic agents according to the invention.
  • the paraffin oils of the hydrophobic phase are mixtures of saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons which are liquid at room temperature.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention therefore contain at least one paraffin oil as the hydrophobic phase (II).
  • the agent contains only a small proportion of surface-active substances.
  • surface-active substances are emulsifiers and surfactants.
  • Surface-active substances are characterized by hydrophobic and hydrophilic structural features and thus allow a thorough mixing of the phases to form micelles and stable emulsions.
  • the present invention explicitly does not comprise any emulsions, but rather contains two phases present separately from one another, it has turned out to be particularly advantageous according to the invention for the composition to comprise nonionic, anionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and / or emulsifiers in a total weight of less than 5 wt .-%, preferably less than 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent contains.
  • Particularly advantageous are agents which are free of surface-active substances.
  • Anionic surfactants according to the invention are all suitable for use on the human body anionic surfactants. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group
  • a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the
  • Amphoteric surfactants are understood as meaning surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C 8 -C 2 4-alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which makes it possible to form internal salts are.
  • Typical amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Exemplary amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 -C 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Atoms in the alkyl group with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the tradenames Dehydol LS, Dehydol LT (Cognis); Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, such as poly (3) glycerol diisostearate (commercial product: Lameform TGI (Henkel)) and poly (2) glycerol polyhydroxy stearate (commercial product: Dehymuls PGPH (Henkel)); Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis
  • the nonionic emulsifiers in the context of the invention furthermore include the polymerization products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide onto saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols; Fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; Alkyl esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or alkylphenols and their alkoxylates; in particular ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols; mixed ethylene and propylene glycol ethers with fatty alcohols; Fatty acid esters of sorbitan and polyethylene glycol; Esters of non-hydroxylated C 6 -C 30 -alkyl monocarboxylic acids with polyethylene glycol; and addition products of alkylphenols to ethylene and / or propylene oxide.
  • Electrolytes are usually understood as meaning charged ionic inorganic and organic compounds which contain no or only a very slight hydrophobic fraction.
  • Preferred electrolytes are readily water-soluble salts, especially alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts of mineral acids and organic acids. Examples thereof are sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, sodium hydrogensulfate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, sodium citrate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogencarbonate.
  • the agent according to the invention is characterized in that oil-soluble ingredients predominantly accumulate in the hydrophobic phase (II) and therefore do not come into direct contact with the oxidant-containing phase (I). This is particularly advantageous in order to stabilize oxidatively less stable care substances on average.
  • Such preferred conditioners are therefore oil-soluble conditioners, oil-soluble vitamins and triglycerides, especially vegetable and those containing one or more unsaturated carbon-carbon bonds. In order to visually clarify the two-phase nature, it may also be useful if the hydrophobic phase (II) contains oil-soluble dyes.
  • a particular embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one predominantly oil-soluble component selected from oil-soluble dyes, oil-soluble care substances, oil-soluble vitamins and triglycerides.
  • the agent additionally contains at least one predominantly oil-soluble component selected from oil-soluble dyes, oil-soluble care substances, oil-soluble vitamins and triglycerides.
  • those compounds which have a water solubility of less than 1 g per 1 L of water under normal conditions but are soluble in apolar compounds (ie> 10 g / kg of solvent) are said to be predominantly oil-soluble.
  • Oil-soluble care substances are, for example, cosmetically effective terpenes and terpenoids, such as bisabolol, and ubiquinones, such as coenzyme Q-10.
  • Oil-soluble vitamins are, in particular, the compounds known under the collective names vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E and vitamin K.
  • a preferred agent according to the invention therefore contains at least one oil-soluble vitamin selected from vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E and / or vitamin K and also vitamin P.
  • Vitamin A in this case comprises retinoids, in particular a-frans-retinol.
  • Vitamin D also referred to as calciferols, comprises 7,8-didehydrosterol derivatives, in particular the compounds with the name cholecalciferol (vitamin D 3 , calciol), ergocalciferol (vitamin D 2 , ercalciol), 7,8-didehydrocholesterol (provitamin D 3 , procalciol, procholec calciferol) and ergosterol (provitamin D 2 ).
  • Other usable vitamin D analogues are calcidiol (25-hydroxycholecalciferol), calcitriol, hydroxycalcidiol and vitamin D (ergocalciferol and lumi- sterol).
  • Vitamin E is the collective term for tocopherols and comprises in particular the chemical compounds ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol and ⁇ -tocotrienol, ⁇ -tocotrienol, ⁇ -tocotrienol and ⁇ -tocotrienol.
  • Vitamin K is a collective name for various compounds with vitamin K activity derived from 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone (vitamin K 3 ).
  • vitamin K 1 (2 o ) (2-methyl-3-phytyl-1,4-naphthoquinone), phylloquinone (abbreviation: K),], vitamin K 2 (35) (3-all-trans-farnesylgeranylgeranyl) 2-methyl-1, 4-naphthoquinone), vitamin K 3 (2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, menadione, menaphthone) and the derived analogues vitamin K 4 (2-methyl-1,4-naphthalenediol), vitamin K.
  • Vitamin P is a collective name for rutin, in particular bioflavonoids such as troxerutin (vitamin P 4 ) and hesperidin.
  • Triglycerides are the collective name for esters of glycerol, which are the major constituents of natural oils.
  • Particularly preferred triglycerides according to the invention are those which contain at least one ester of an unsaturated fatty acid.
  • Preferred unsaturated fatty acids are oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid.
  • vegetable oils can preferably be used as triglycerides, in particular those which have a positive influence on the hair surface.
  • Particularly suitable triglycerides are, in particular, oils which are obtained from the seeds of Moringa pterygosperma (Moringa oil) or from the cores of Argania spinosa (argan oil).
  • hydrophobic phase (II) additionally contains at least one oil which is selected from oils from the seeds of Moringa pterygosperma (Moringa oil) and / or from the nuclei of Argania spinosa (argan oil).
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably used to change the color of keratinic fibers.
  • the biphasic agent (M1) according to the invention is mixed with a further agent (M2) containing at least one color-modifying component, and the resulting, ready-to-use preparation is applied to the keratinic fibers.
  • color-modifying component in the agent (M2) as the brightening agent, additional bleaching power boosters which enhance the effect of the oxidizing agent of the phase (I) of the biphasic agent and coloring components are used.
  • the bleaching force enhancer is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.
  • Particularly preferred bleach boosters are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxodiphosphate, magnesium peroxide and barium peroxide.
  • agents which contain as bleaching power intensifier at least one inorganic salt selected from peroxymonosulphates and / or peroxodisulphates are particularly preferred when the compositions of the invention contain at least two different peroxodisulfates.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the peroxo compounds are contained in an amount of 0, 1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally anhydrous and in the form of an optionally dedusted powder, paste or molded molding in the form.
  • the anhydrous agents (M2) may contain, instead of and / or in addition to the solid peroxo compounds, a further bleaching power enhancer.
  • Bleach amplifiers which can be used are compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxocarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylenediamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N- Acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or i-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular tri-acetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5- diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacet
  • carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts may preferably be used according to the invention. These are preferably selected from the group of the ammonium, alkali metal (in particular sodium and potassium) and alkaline earth metal (in particular magnesium and calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleach booster.
  • agent (M2) is formulated anhydrous.
  • Anhydrous in the sense of the present invention means a water content based on the agent (M2) of less than 5 wt .-%, in particular less than 2 wt .-%. Blondierzurungen containing less than 0, 1 wt .-% water, according to the invention may be very particularly preferred.
  • Agent (M2) is preferably formulated as a powder or as an anhydrous paste.
  • Bleach enhancers of the alkyl carbonates and carbamates type and silyl carbonates and silyl carbamates can be used in the anhydrous compositions as bleach boosters and are characterized by compounds of the formula (BV)
  • R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle,
  • X is a group O or NR 3, wherein R 3 is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle, and
  • R 2 is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, in particular sodium, or a group SiR 3 in which the radicals R independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably one Trimethylsilyl distr or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy or amino group.
  • compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R1 in formula (BV) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl and also hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl.
  • Preferred radicals R 2 and R 3 in the formula (BV) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, t-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.
  • the agent (M2) as bleaching force enhancer may contain at least one cationic pyridinium derivative.
  • Preferred compounds are 4-acyl-pyridinium derivatives and 2-acylpyridinium derivatives. Particularly preferred are 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • Further preferred cationic pyridinium derivatives are cationic 3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium derivative. Particularly preferred is N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • the bleach boosters used in addition to or instead of peroxo compounds are preferred in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic agents By means of, included.
  • At least one optionally hydrated Si0 2 compound may additionally be added to the composition according to the invention as bleach booster.
  • the optionally hydrated Si0 2 compounds in amounts of 0.05 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 15 wt .-% to 10 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.2 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, each based on the anhydrous composition of the invention to use.
  • Preferred optionally hydrated SiO 2 compounds are silicic acids, their oligomers and polymers, and salts thereof.
  • the optionally hydrated Si0 2 compounds can be present in various forms.
  • the Si0 2 compounds are preferably used in the form of silica gels (silica gel) or particularly preferably as water glass.
  • Water glasses which are formed from a silicate of the formula (SiO 2 ) n (Na 2 O) m (K 2 O) p are preferred according to the invention, where n stands for a positive rational number and m and p independently of one another represent a positive rational one Number or 0, with the provisos that at least one of the parameters m or p is different from 0 and the ratio between n and the sum of m and p is between 1: 4 and 4: 1.
  • metasilicates which are distinguished according to the above formula by the ratio between n and the sum of m and p of ⁇ 1 and can be regarded as chain-like polymeric structures of the anion [Si0 3 ] 2 " can preferably be used Formula [Na 2 Si0 3 ] x , is particularly preferred.
  • color change keratinischer fibers are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the brightening agents according to the invention contain as oxidation dye precursor at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type (developer component), preferably in combination with at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type (coupler component).
  • Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are p-phenylenediamine derivatives.
  • Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl -p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl -p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl ) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (2-
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl-p phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • preferred binuclear developer components are selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N '- bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4- diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diamino-phenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecan or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-amino phenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred p- Aminophenols are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol , 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol , 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol , 4-amino-2,6-dich
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine and pyrazolopyrazole derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-Amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-t-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -3-
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidines are the compounds which are selected from pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, pyrazolo [ 1, 5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2J-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-amino-pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) (2
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrazole derivative is 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one.
  • Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imide azol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component. Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. When the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
  • Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected as at least one compound from one of the following classes: m-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, m-diaminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and / or derivatives thereof; Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group; Di- or trihydroxybenzene; pyridine derivatives; pyrimidine derivatives; certain indole derivatives and indoline derivatives; Pyrazolone derivatives (for example, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one); Morpholine derivatives (for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine); Quinoxaline derivatives (for example, 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline), as well as mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes.
  • Preferred m-aminophenol coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6 methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4- methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4 methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred m-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1 Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2- ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino ) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin
  • Preferred o-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 3 -Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2J-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene.
  • Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino 6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-di- hydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino 3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2 -Amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred indole derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred indoline derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro 2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diamino-phenyl) -propane, 2.6 Bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ ( ⁇
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other.
  • a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one substantive dye.
  • These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes. These are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 0, 1 wt .-%.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as direct dyes which contain a heterocycle which has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ® , According to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds , and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitro-benzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxy ethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1 methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol,
  • Dye combinations preferred according to the invention are those which contain at least the combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 98; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 94; Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 87 or Tetrabromphenol Blue and Acid Red 51.
  • Ready-to-use agents according to the invention are preferably aqueous, flowable preparations.
  • the compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
  • the ready-to-use agents as a mixture of agents (M1) and (M2) may contain surface-active substances selected from the abovementioned anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines are preferred according to the invention in ready-to-use agents.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
  • Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines, such as stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
  • dialkylaminoamines such as stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
  • preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart and Armocare.
  • nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the dye precursors, for example by atmospheric oxygen.
  • a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the dye precursors, for example by atmospheric oxygen.
  • Such catalysts are for.
  • Suitable enzymes for this purpose are, for.
  • Use of certain metal ions or complexes may also be preferred.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ce 4+ , V 3+ , Co 2+ , Ru 3+ and Al 3+ . Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the oxidizing agent preparations contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.
  • Complex images are substances that can complex metal ions.
  • Preferred complexing agents are so-called chelate complexing agents, ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, i. H. at least "bidentate”.
  • Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts.
  • Complex-forming polymers ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain themselves or in the side thereof, which can act as ligands and as a rule react with suitable metal atoms to form chelate complexes, can be used according to the invention.
  • the polymer-bound ligands of the resulting metal complexes can originate from only one macromolecule or belong to different polymer chains.
  • nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes
  • zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methylmethacrylate / tert-butylaminoethylmethacrylate / 2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers
  • anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl
  • the two-phase (M1) and color-change agent (M2) ready-to-use agents preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 12. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they have an alkaline pH. Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is that the ready-to-use agent has a pH of between 7.0 and 12.0, preferably between 8.0 and 11.0. For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids.
  • Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol ,
  • a particularly preferred alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.
  • Suitable basic amino acids are lysine, arginine and ornithine.
  • the application temperatures can range between 15 and 40 ° C. After a contact time of 2 to 60, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, the bleaching agent is removed by rinsing the hair. Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents of the first subject of the invention can be used preferably for the oxidative color change of human hair.
  • a significant improvement in the surface texture and the gloss of the hair is observed.
  • This improvement can be quantified, for example, with the combing work in the wet or dry state after the color change.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of a means of the first subject of the invention for improving the surface properties of the fibers in the oxidative color change of human hair.
  • a means of the first subject of the invention for improving the surface properties of the fibers in the oxidative color change of human hair.
  • a preferred dosage form of the ready-to-use agent is a separate packaging unit wherein the agents (M1) and (M2) are packaged separately from each other.
  • a further subject of the present invention is therefore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) which contains at least two separate containers, wherein a first container (C1) contains a cosmetic agent (M1) according to the first subject of the invention as an oxidizing agent preparation and a second Container (C2) a Farbver capableungszu- preparation (M2), containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing component.
  • container is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings.
  • the wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
  • Particularly preferred for visualizing the biphasic means (M1) is an embodiment in which the envelope of the container containing the means (M1) is transparent to the user.
  • a preferred embodiment of the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the first container (C1) containing the means (M1) has a transparent packaging, preferably a transparent plastic packaging.
  • the ready-to-use colorant be formulated and formulated such that the colorant, on the one hand, can be well distributed on the keratinic fibers to be dyed, but on the other hand remains in the fibers to be dyed during the time of use.
  • the colorant has a certain viscosity, which allows the application of the agent, but the agent can also remain at the place of use. This viscosity can be adjusted by polymeric thickening agents in the ready-to-use colorant, which thickener may be included in both the color change formulation or the oxidizer formulation.
  • the color change preparation and the oxidizer preparation have a good flowability and the increased viscosity of the application mixture is established only after mixing the two components.
  • One way to achieve this goal is to use polymeric thickeners whose thickening properties change with pH.
  • high polymer charges, especially on anionic polymeric thickeners can lead to problems in the preparation of the oxidizing agent preparations, since such increased use concentrations of thickening agents, especially at low pH fluctuations, lead to blockages in the production plants and equipment, such as metering pumps and valves can. It is therefore particularly desirable in addition to the raw material savings to use agents with reduced content of polymeric thickener, if the viscosity of the application mixture is not affected.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore to provide a two-part, oxidative coloring agent for keratinic fibers, which has a good miscibility of the two subcomponents, but has a sufficient viscosity, so that the agent can be well applied on the one hand, on the other hand the application remains at the site of action and does not flow out of the fibers.
  • the remedy should be characterized by the fact that the amount of polymeric thickener is reduced, so that the problems described above during the preparation of the means can be minimized or eliminated.
  • a third embodiment of this subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts), which is characterized in that the oxidation agent preparation (M1) in the first phase (I) additionally comprises at least one anionic polymeric thickener selected from homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.
  • the phase (I) of the oxidizing agent preparation (M1) contains at least one anionic, polymeric thickener which is selected from homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid. Since the oxidizing agent preparation (M1) usually has an acidic pH, but the application mixture has an alkaline pH, the polymeric thickener is subject to a change in pH which deprotonates the carboxylic acid groups of acrylic or methacrylic acid units and by this ionization a gel formation and thus an increase in viscosity begins.
  • acrylic acid and methacrylic acid crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid are further examples of anionic monomers from which the polymeric anionic thickening agents can consist.
  • the acidic groups may also be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trade drawing Carbopol ® commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer may further be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, itaconic acid mono- and diesters, vinylpyrrolidinone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • the inventive oxidizing agent preparation (M1) may additionally comprise at least one anionic acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymer or copolymer.
  • Preferred polymers of this type are:
  • Polymers e.g. from at least 10% by weight of acrylic acid lower alkyl ester, from 25 to 70% by weight of methacrylic acid and optionally up to 40% by weight of a further comonomer,
  • Suitable dispersions of this type are commercially available, for example under the trade name Latekoll D ® (BASF).
  • copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol preference is also given to copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Such copolymers are sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Aculyn ® 22 and by National Starch under the trade names Structure ® Structure 2001 ® 3,001th
  • Particularly preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their d-Ce-alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers. Preference is given to the combination of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and optionally crosslinking, multifunctional monomers.
  • a preferred commercial product for example Aculyn ® 33 or 33A from Rohm & Haas.
  • the anionic acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight and in particular from 2.5 to 4 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of color change preparation (M2) and oxidizing agent preparation (M1) included.
  • a further embodiment of this subject matter of the invention is characterized in that the means (M2) from container (C2) represents a dyeing preparation and this color change formulation contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • said kit of parts contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioning agent.
  • the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
  • agent (M1) When using the multicomponent packaging unit, it may be irrelevant whether the two phases of agent (M1) are briefly mixed by vigorous shaking and the agent (M2) is added before re-phase separation in order to provide the ready-to-use color change preparation, or M2) is added to the medium (M1) and then the ready mixture is prepared by intimate mixing.
  • the container (C1) containing the biphasic means (M1) has a reclosable opening, such as a snap or a screw cap.
  • a reclosable opening such as a snap or a screw cap.
  • container (C2) which in turn preferably in the form of a bag or Sachets in the case of anhydrous, in particular powdered color changing agents, or in the form of a tube in the case of flowable color changing agents. It is preferred to mix the individual preparations and to apply the ready-to-use agent promptly to the keratinic fibers.
  • a further subject of the invention is therefore processes for color change keratinischer fibers, in particular human hair, which is characterized in that from a multi-component packaging unit according to the preceding subject invention, the color change preparation (M2) and the oxidation preparation (M1) in one of the two containers (C1) and (C2), the resealed container is then shaken, and then the color change agent resulting in this container is subsequently applied to the fibers, left on the fibers for a period of 5 to 60 minutes, and finally rinsed out.
  • an embodiment of this subject matter of the invention is a process for color-changing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is characterized in that the container (C1) is shaken out of a multi-component packaging unit according to the preceding subject of the invention, the resulting mixture of phases (I) and (II) immediately afterwards intimately mixed with a dyeing preparation of the container (C2), the resulting, ready-to-use color-changing agent is then applied to the fibers, left on the fibers for a period of 5 to 60 minutes and finally rinsed out.
  • Another object of the present invention is an agent ready for oxidative color change keratinischer fibers, in particular human hair, which is prepared immediately prior to use by mixing the components of a multi-packaging unit of the third subject of the invention, and which is characterized in that it has a viscosity of 5 to 50 Pa s, preferably 10 to 20 Pa s (Brookfield, 22 ° C, spindle # 5, 4 rpm).
  • the combination of oil and anionic, polymeric thickener can reduce the amount of polymeric, anionic thickener advantageously. As a result, it is possible on the one hand to reduce quantities of raw materials and, on the other hand, to minimize the problems in the production process caused by the high amount of anionic thickener.
  • a final subject of the invention is therefore the use of an oxidizing agent preparation (M1) with two separate phases, wherein the first phase (I) represents an aqueous phase containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one chemical oxidizing agent and at least one anionic polymeric thickener selected from Homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and wherein the second phase (II) is a hydrophobic phase containing at least one oil selected from paraffin oil or liquid carboxylic acid esters of C 2 -C 8 monoalkanol with a mono - or dicarboxylic acid, for increasing the mixing viscosity of a colorant for keratinic fibers, which is prepared by mixing a color change preparation (M1) containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing component, and this oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
  • M1 represents an aqueous phase containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one chemical oxidizing agent and at least one anionic polymeric thickener
  • Raw materials Texapon NSO (about 27%, INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cognis); Aculyn 33A (about 28%, INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer, Aqua; Rohm &Haas); Dow Corning DB 1 10 A (INCI name: dimethicone; Dow Corning).
  • the dyeing creams FC were mixed before use each with the respective developer solutions, in a weight ratio of 1: 1 and intimately mixed.
  • Per gram of hair European human hair, Alkinco 6634, # 10/2003, A9
  • the exposure time was 30 minutes at 35 ° C for the colorants.
  • the tresses were rinsed with warm water for 30 seconds and air dried.
  • the chestnut colored streaks were characterized by brilliant colors and a pleasant grip.
  • the hair strands dyed with the agents according to the invention showed a significantly improved combing work in comparison to the strands dyed with comparative agents.
  • the compositions of the invention significantly improve the keratin fiber surface over corresponding comparison agents.
  • the ready-to-use colorants # 2 or # 3 according to the invention thus show a significantly increased viscosity compared to the comparison colorant # 1.
  • the inventive colorant # 4 demonstrates that a constant viscosity in the application mixture can still be achieved by the addition of IPM, even if the amount of anionic, polymeric thickener used is reduced by 13%.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une préparation cosmétique pour fibres kératiniques, en particulier pour les cheveux, caractérisée par la présence de deux phases séparées, une des phases étant une phase aqueuse et l'autre phase une phase hydrophobe. Les préparations de ce type contiennent au moins un agent d'oxydation chimique, ainsi qu'au moins un ester d'acide carboxylique et/ou une huile de paraffine hydrophobe. Grâce à leur propriété d'oxydation, ces préparations sont utilisées comme révélateur pour des colorations par oxydation ou comme produit éclaircissant.
EP10785081.0A 2009-12-16 2010-12-03 Révélateur à deux phases Ceased EP2582348A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009054760A DE102009054760A1 (de) 2009-12-16 2009-12-16 2-Phasen Entwickler
PCT/EP2010/068805 WO2011082910A2 (fr) 2009-12-16 2010-12-03 Révélateur à deux phases

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EP2582348A2 true EP2582348A2 (fr) 2013-04-24

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EP10785081.0A Ceased EP2582348A2 (fr) 2009-12-16 2010-12-03 Révélateur à deux phases

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US (1) US20120312318A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2582348A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102009054760A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2011082910A2 (fr)

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DE102009044920A1 (de) * 2009-09-23 2011-04-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung bestimmter Aminosäuren in Färbemitteln keratinischer Fasern zur Farbintensivierung
DE102010003264A1 (de) * 2010-03-25 2011-09-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Viskositätsgebende Zweiphasen-Entwickler mit klarer Ölphase für oxidative Farbveränderungsmittel
DE102010003265A1 (de) 2010-03-25 2011-09-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Färbemittel für keratinische Fasern mit optimierter Viskositätseinstellung
WO2013029859A1 (fr) * 2011-08-26 2013-03-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents contenant du peroxyde d'hydrogène à ajustement de viscosité amélioré
DE102012223564A1 (de) * 2012-12-18 2014-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Zweiphasen-Entwickler für oxidative Farbveränderungsmittel
FR3012332B1 (fr) * 2013-10-31 2016-10-28 Oreal Procede de coloration d'oxydation et/ou d'eclaircissement des fibres keratiniques et composition multiphasique correspondante
EP2926802B1 (fr) 2014-04-02 2017-09-27 Noxell Corporation Compositions de coloration capillaire, kits, procédé et leur utilisation
DE102014226320A1 (de) * 2014-12-17 2016-06-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Resorcinderivate in Mitteln zum gleichzeitigen Umformen und Färben von keratinischen Fasern
DE102017223033A1 (de) * 2017-12-18 2019-06-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wasserstoffperoxid-Formulierungen in Sperrschicht-Folien mit einer metallisierten Schicht

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JP2003081789A (ja) 2001-09-13 2003-03-19 Hoyu Co Ltd 毛髪化粧料用組成物
JP2003081790A (ja) 2001-09-13 2003-03-19 Hoyu Co Ltd 脱色剤組成物及び染毛剤組成物

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US20120312318A1 (en) 2012-12-13
WO2011082910A3 (fr) 2013-03-21
WO2011082910A2 (fr) 2011-07-14
DE102009054760A1 (de) 2011-06-22

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