EP2409587B1 - Dummy zum Hochziehen von geschneiderten Kleidern - Google Patents

Dummy zum Hochziehen von geschneiderten Kleidern Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2409587B1
EP2409587B1 EP20110174572 EP11174572A EP2409587B1 EP 2409587 B1 EP2409587 B1 EP 2409587B1 EP 20110174572 EP20110174572 EP 20110174572 EP 11174572 A EP11174572 A EP 11174572A EP 2409587 B1 EP2409587 B1 EP 2409587B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
shoulder
dummy
arm
vertical
joint
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP20110174572
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2409587A1 (de
Inventor
Eugenio Carbone
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
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Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP2409587A1 publication Critical patent/EP2409587A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2409587B1 publication Critical patent/EP2409587B1/de
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H5/00—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands
    • A41H5/01—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands with means for adjustment, e.g. of height

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a dummy for drawing up and designing models of dressmaking dresses of the type that completely reproduces a human figure and therefore presents legs and arms, these latter articulated in correspondence with the shoulders and, eventually, the elbows.
  • Dummies of the type defined above are known, they have the function of representing the human body to scale, respecting the proportions.
  • window dummies which usually have a fixed shape, and rarely include a simplified articulation.
  • the dummies of this type serve, therefore, principally to allow the application of trial models already partially prepared, to observe how they will be worn.
  • step by step After a series of approximations that step by step come closer to the model imagined by the designer, the definitive model is obtained and which, based on the desired size, is needed to obtain the cuts of cloth that are necessary for the composition of the dress.
  • Such dummies do not have an active part in the drawing up and designing of a model, procedures which thus require a thorough knowledge of empirical techniques and numerous trials before arriving at the desired model of a dress.
  • US 2010/0070384 A1 discloses a dummy with means for adjusting the shape of the shoulders, neck, chast and back.
  • the means comprise electric motors which actuate telescopic links.
  • the technical problem which is the basis of the present invention consists of supplying a dummy as specified above which allows one to overcome the limitations of known dummies with reference to the state of the technique.
  • the principal advantage of the above-described dummy consists in supplying a direct aid in the drawing up of the model, because it allows modelling to be effected directly on the body of the dummy, thanks also to the direct access to the area of the crotch and to the sliding of the joint at the shoulder, and of the parts which make up the model itself.
  • the dummy also comprises a head that rotates on the neck and which can be removed from it.
  • the joint at the shoulder may also comprise the rotation of the arm along a lateral horizontal axis, that is the axis which unites the two opposing shoulders, as well as the partial separation of the proximal extremity of the arm.
  • a dummy according to the invention is indicated in its entirety by 1. It reproduces a human figure proportionally and to scale, for example of 50%. It presents a main body or corset with respective arms 2, a head 3, and respective legs 10 separated in correspondence to a crotch 7.
  • At least one arm in particular the right arm 2, visible in the Figures, is completely articulated at the level of the shoulder 4 and at the level of the elbow 9.
  • Said arm therefore comprises a proximal portion of arm 5, or more correctly an arm, and a forearm 6.
  • the elbow 9 simply allows the forward rotation of the forearm when the arm is in a distended position, not in a lateral one.
  • the opposite arm to that completely articulated may also be complete with articulations as previously described, but may also be a simple mock-up without joints, and in this manner is indicated by 2, having a fixed proximal portion of arm 5, forearm 6 and elbow 9.
  • the head 3 can be separated from the dummy and from the respective neck 8, onto which it fits by simple joint so that it can be turned according to the vertical axis of the neck 8.
  • the dummy 1 can be separated along an anterior-posterior vertical plane, that is a plane that is substantially perpendicular to the section that extends from the crotch 7 to the axis of the neck.
  • a main semi-corset 1' is identified, which comprises said completely articulated arm, and a secondary semi-corset 1", with the mock-up of an arm 2'.
  • the main semi-bust 1' is that on the right, but it is intended that the two semi-busts can be totally interchangeable.
  • the respective planes of separation comprise a connection system with two projecting pins 13, set on the same plane or on opposite planes, with two recesses 13' in complementary positions to said pins.
  • the pins 13 use the respective recesses 13', ensuring a connection by the interfacing between the surfaces of the pins and the recesses.
  • any system of connection preferably not perceivable from outside the dummy 1 when assembled, may be considered adequate for the purpose.
  • the legs 10 of the dummy stand on a supporting base 11, substantially conforming to a pedestal or a plate.
  • the leg 10 which extends from the secondary semi-corset 1" may not be connected to the base 11, with the dummy therefore supported only by the leg 10 of the main semi-corset 1'.
  • This configuration allows the secondary semi-corset 1" from the main one without touching the base 11, which may be wide and balanced in such a way to maintain the main semi-corset 1' in a vertical position.
  • these configurations permit the dismantling of the secondary semi-corset 1" from the main one 1', maintaining this last in a vertical and stable position, eventually after partial re-assembly.
  • the cavity (not visible), formed at the base of the head and into which the trunk of the neck is inserted, functions as a further means of connection.
  • the four movements described above are set up by a particular articulation indicated as a whole by 14, which is inserted and assembled in a suitable cavity 21, made in the main semi-corset 1' in correspondence with the shoulder.
  • the cavity 24 is shaped in such a way to permit the movement of the mobile parts of the articulation 14.
  • the plate 15 comprises a fixing plate 15 in order to be fixed to said main semi-corset 1' from said plane of separation, when the dummy 1 is in a separated configuration.
  • the plate 15 supports a guide plate 16 which faces, in said cavity 24 towards the shoulder, and is accessible by it.
  • Said arm 2 is installed through this cavity.
  • the guide plate 16 is furnished with a pair of grooves 17, in which the sliding elements of a mobile equipment 18 are inserted. It is intended that this sliding connection is to permit the sliding and vertical translation along a vertical or slightly inclined axis towards the exterior of the shoulder. It can be constructed in diverse ways, for example with a track and counter-track connection, or with a screw shaft that commands the movement of the mobile equipment 18. Said motion can be carried out manually by pushing or by other methods.
  • the mobile equipment 18 and the guide-plate 16 present respective elements that permit the reciprocal motion of the two parts by trip-release, thus identifying the pre-established positions of arrest.
  • This may be obtained with a rack structure or, as in this case, with protruding spheres on an elastic support which protrude from the guide-plate 16 towards the mobile equipment 18 and find their seats in a series of equidistant semi-spherical cavities 22 along a linear course.
  • the above-described connection permits a vertical excursion with 5mm trips and eight different positions, in such a way that, with respect to the initial position, it is possible to raise the articulation by 25mm and to lower it by 10mm.
  • a fixing pin 19 extends horizontally, which according to a particular version of constructing the present dummy 1 is telescopic, and capable of elongation or a limited excursion from a retracted position.
  • the fixing pin 19 has a magnetic proximal base, which is inserted into a hollow in the mobile equipment 18 in such a way as to permit an easy separation of the entire arm 2 from its seat.
  • connection allows rotation around the axis of the pin 19, that is a rotation around a lateral horizontal axis, which substantially coincides with the line that unites the shoulders.
  • the distal extremity of the pin 19 presents, instead, a further joint 20, which permits the above-said rotation around an anterior-posterior horizontal axis.
  • Said articulation comprises a cogwheel that interacts with a cog(not shown), retractable into said articulation, to permit a rotation with trips, in such a way as to identify positions that are fixed, precise and repeatable in the course of the rotation.
  • anterior-posterior rotation described here may, however, also be of limited excursion.
  • the excursion of the articulation 4 of the shoulder also permits the proximal extremity of the arm to be raised with respect to the profile of the shoulder, other than lowered, always to permit the maximum freedom in drawing up the model.
  • the height of the dummy is divided into 8 modules of 11cms each for the construction to scale 1:2, with a height of 88cms.
  • this module is not casual, but results as the most suitable for determining vertical levels that affect particular and significant areas of the body.
  • the dummy is covered in a semi-elastic fabric and on it some vertical and horizontal reference lines are traced, in order to favour a specific position during the planning and during the drawing up.
  • Another line descends frontally, from the level below the breast to the ankle, maintaining the vertical along the central part of the leg.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Instructional Devices (AREA)
  • Toys (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Dummy (1) zum Hochziehen von geschneiderten Kleidern der Art, die eine menschliche Figur vollständig wiedergibt und dann Beine und Arme aufweist, wobei die Letzteren an der Schulter und möglicherweise am Ellbogen gelenkig sind, umfassend:
    • mindestens ein Schultergelenk (4), das die Drehung des Arms (2) gemäß im Wesentlichen einer horizontalen Anterior-Posterior-Achse aus einer Position nahe dem Körper in eine im Wesentlichen horizontale Position ermöglicht, und das vertikale Gleiten des Arms mit Bezug auf das Schulterprofil aus einer unteren Position, in der das Armgelenk mit Bezug auf das Schulterprofil abgesenkt ist, in eine obere Position, in der das Armgelenk mit Bezug auf das Schulterprofil angehoben ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass er weiter Folgendes umfasst:
    • einen Hauptkörper, der in zwei Abschnitte unterteilt werden kann, gemäß einer vertikalen Anterior-Posterior-Ebene (A), im Wesentlichen entsprechend dem Abschnitt, der sich vom Schritt (7) zur Halsachse erstreckt.
  2. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 1, wobei der Kopf (3) vom Dummy und vom entsprechenden Hals (8), auf den er gestellt ist, getrennt werden kann, um dazu in der Lage zu sein, sich gemäß der vertikalen Achse des Halses (8) zu drehen.
  3. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 1, wobei der Hauptkörper in ein Haupt-Halbkorsett (1') unterteilt ist, das einen vollständig gelenkigen Arm (2) umfasst, und in ein sekundäres Halbkorsett (1"), wobei die entsprechenden Trennebenen ein Verbindungssystem umfassen, das vorzugsweise von der Außenseite des Dummys nicht festgestellt werden kann.
  4. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 3, wobei sich die Beine (10) auf einer Stützbasis (11) aufrichten, um eine Trennung des sekundären Halbkorsetts (1") vom Haupt-Halbkorsett zu ermöglichen, wobei es in einer vertikalen Position gehalten wird.
  5. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 1, wobei das Gelenk der Schulter (4) die folgenden Bewegungen ermöglicht:
    • eine Drehung um eine horizontale Anterior-Posterior-Achse;
    • eine Drehung um eine seitliche horizontale Achse, die im Wesentlichen mit der Linie übereinstimmt, die die Schultern verbindet;
    • eine Translation gemäß einer vertikalen Achse (Y), die es dem Arm, wenn er horizontal angeordnet ist, ermöglicht, das obere Profil des proximalen Abschnitts des Arms (5) und das Schulterprofil auf die gleiche Ebene zu bringen, aber auch, den Abschnitt 5 abzusenken, indem die Schulter (4) im Wesentlichen frei gelassen wird; und
    • eine optionale Translation des proximalen Abschnitts des Arms 5 durch die Wegbewegung oder die Wiederannäherung mit Bezug auf die Schulter gemäß einer horizontalen Achse (X), die mit der Linie übereinstimmt, die die zwei Schultern verbindet.
  6. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 5, wobei das Gelenk der Schulter (4) das Gleiten und die vertikale Translation gemäß einer vertikalen Achse oder einer Achse, die geringfügig zur Außenseite der Schulter geneigt ist, mit einer Sprungbewegung ermöglicht, so durch die Identifizierung von vorher festgesetzten Blockierpositionen, wobei der Arm (2) auch mit Bezug auf das Profil der Schulter (4) angehoben werden kann.
  7. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 5, wobei das Gelenk der Schulter (1) ein Scharniergelenk (20) umfasst, das die oben erwähnte Drehung um eine horizontale Anterior-Posterior-Achse mit einer Sprungdrehung ermöglicht, um feste und präzise Positionen zu identifizieren, die während der Drehung wiederholt werden können.
  8. Dummy (1) nach Anspruch 1, wobei der Dummy mit einem halbelastischen Gewebe beschichtet ist, und auf dem einige vertikale und horizontale Referenzlinien gezogen wurden, die dazu ausgelegt sind, während der Planung und des Hochziehens eine spezifische Orientierung zu erleichtern.
EP20110174572 2010-07-20 2011-07-19 Dummy zum Hochziehen von geschneiderten Kleidern Not-in-force EP2409587B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITRM2010A000404A IT1409076B1 (it) 2010-07-20 2010-07-20 Manichino per l'elaborazione di modelli da sartoria

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2409587A1 EP2409587A1 (de) 2012-01-25
EP2409587B1 true EP2409587B1 (de) 2013-04-10

Family

ID=43602837

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP20110174572 Not-in-force EP2409587B1 (de) 2010-07-20 2011-07-19 Dummy zum Hochziehen von geschneiderten Kleidern

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2409587B1 (de)
IT (1) IT1409076B1 (de)

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2005399A (en) * 1929-08-05 1935-06-18 Sterling Ernst Apparatus for the tailoring trade for reproducing the shape of the body of the customer
US3838800A (en) * 1973-08-24 1974-10-01 E Arthur Dressform
US4885844A (en) * 1988-11-14 1989-12-12 Chun Joong H Computer aided custom tailoring with disposable measurement clothing
GB9224477D0 (en) * 1992-11-23 1993-01-13 Arthur A E Ltd Improvements in bodyforms
WO2008113367A2 (en) * 2007-03-19 2008-09-25 Massi Miliano OÜ Method and system for custom tailoring and retailing of clothing

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITRM20100404A1 (it) 2012-01-21
EP2409587A1 (de) 2012-01-25
IT1409076B1 (it) 2014-07-17

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