US2005399A - Apparatus for the tailoring trade for reproducing the shape of the body of the customer - Google Patents

Description

June 18, 1935. E'. STERLING 2,005,399

APPARATUS FOR THE TAILORING TRADE FOR REFRODUCING THE SHAPE OF THE BODY OF THE CUSTOMER Filed Nov. 14, 1929 v 3 ShGQ'bS-ShGBt l- 47 48 5o 5 52 4g F19 1. a4 :2; a; s2 92 k 48 I v i I v y l {*35 4 g as 3o 6 9 I 6 Q '11 46 29 30 46 30 27 47 I 8 1r 21" g 8 1 26 v 21 26 22 21 3 o 23 24 25 2 3 63 P: E 3

INVENTOR W'Wy I June 18,1935. E. STERLING 2,005,399

APPARATUS FOR THE TAILORING TRADE FOR REPRODUCING THE SHAPE OF THE BODY OF THE CUSTOMER Filed Nov. 14, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR June I8, 1935. E. STERLING I 2,005,399 v APPARATUS FOR THE TAILORING TRADE FOR REPRODUCING THE SHAPE OF THE BODY OF THE CUSTOMER Filed Nov. 14, 1929 S Sheets-Sheet 3 Fig. 9.

Fig. 14. Fig.15.

INVENTOR Patented June 18, 1935 "i -21 .1

UNITED STATES PATENT: OFFICE APPARATUS FOR THE TAILORING TRADE Eon REPRODUCING THE SHAPE OF THE BODY or THE CUSTOMER 1 1 Ernst Sterling, lillagcleburgIGermany Application November 14, 1929, Serial No.407,2'60

InGermany August 5 1929 I 4 Claims.

body, but the tailor is always compelled to take certain measurements. This is not necessary with the dummy according to the invention, wherein. the trunk can be widened, the'waist lengthened, each shoulder raised or lowered separately, the shoulder width changed, the upper part inclined towards the front or rear, and the shoulders made straight or sloping.

Arm stumps and a neck portion are provided so that the size of the arm hole and height of the collar can be accurately set.

An embodiment of the'invention is illustrated by Wayof example in the accompanying drawings in which:-

Fig. l is a front longitudinal section of the framework. I I I 7 Fig. 2 is a side longitudinal section of thechest portion of the framework. 1 Y

Fig. 3 is a bottom plan view of the the upper frame of the framework. v

Figs. 4 and 5 show details of the framework.

Fig. 6 shows a shoulder portion of the framework in side elevation.

Fig. '7 shows the means for adjusting ing at the belly portion of the dummy.

Fig. 8 shows the dummy inside elevation.

Fig. 9 is an inner view of a portion of the casing.

Fig. 10 is a cross section of a casing. 1

Figs. 11 to 16 show the connection of different portions of the casing. i

' The trunk is formed of avcasin'g which is carried on a framework, comprising an upper and a lower frame adapted to beseparately adjusted.

The lower frame comprises two horizontal plates I and 2. Theupper platei has downwardly extending flaps 3 hingedly connected with flaps 3a projecting upwards from the lower plate 2. This lower frame is adapted to be supported on a stand or the like.

The upper frame comprises a horizontal plate 4, stays 6 and verticalrods 5. r

Two vertical spindles II extend one at each side through the upper plate land are secured in the lower plate 2 at their lower end by a screw thread I2. Each of these spindles II is connected bya ball joint It to a link 9 hingedly connected to a rack 9a. extending through the 7 plate of the easportion of the plate 4. Pinions 8 mounted on spindles I3 journalled in brackets to on the upper side of the plate' l engage each with one of saidracks 9a.

Each of the racks 91; has a row of holes andin each of the brackets 861 a spring loaded pin is mounted and'oan engage in the holes in the coordinate-rack and lock the same in adjusted position."

v If one of the spindles II is vertically shifted by means ofitsscrew thread I2, the plate 4 and consequently the whole of the upper frame will assume a laterally inclined position, so that one shoulder will b'e'higher than the other. If both the spindles II are uniformly shifted, the plate d 'and therefore the upper frame will be inclined transversely, thereby determining the'deportment' of the figure;

One shoulder can also beraised or lowered by I disengaging the pin I4 from one of the rac'ksand turning the'coordinate pinion 8. by means-of its spindle I3. If both these spindles I3 are turned uniformly, the distance between the-two frames will be altered, thus varying the length of "the trunk.

V A verticalspindle I5 is similarlymounted 'at the front or rear of the plate 2.

This spindle also extends through the plate I and, as shown in Fig. 2, is connected at its upper end by a dou- 'ble ball joint I 6, IT to a rack, I8 meshing with a pinion I9 on a spindle I3o journalled in a ,bracket 20 mounted on the under side of the plate "4. By rotating this spindle I 30. the plate l and therefore the upper frame is tilted trans- O The lower frame is provided with ten vertical- 1y arranged curved elements 2I, each having two radially directed superposed arms 2Ia and 2th. Each of the upper arms 2m is slidably guided in an-eye Iaon theunder side of the plate I, whereas the lower armIZIb has a pin which engages in a bifurcation on the end'of one; arm of a bell crank lever 22, these levers '22 being pivotally mounted on brackets 23on the upper side of theplate 2. The other arms of these levers are hingedly connected by bolts 25 toa common screw-threaded nut 2 mounted on a screw thread 26a on the lower end of a vertical spindle 26 journalled in the plates I and 2. This screw spindle 26 has at its lower .end a longitudinal bore 2621 designed to accommodate a supporting pin.

A bevel wheel 28 is keyed on the upper. end

of the spindle 26 above the plate I and this 0 one part having a slot and the other a tongue engaging in the slot so that the length of the spindle adapts itself to the varying width, the outer part being pulled out of the slot in the other part by the casing.

It is necessary, when adjusting the dummy for a corpulent figure, to impart agreater curvature to the casing in this region than at the sides and back. Consequently the arms Zla and Ill) are curved as shown in Fig. 7, so thatthe upper end of the curved elements "2| is displaced through a greater angle than the lower end.

The upper frame plate 4 has eyes'Ba in which ten rods 35 are slidably mounted and each hingedly connected at its outer endto a bent lever 30 having a downwardly inclined portion 46 provided with a slot 46a. A plate 45 having ten pins 44 each engaging in the slot in one of the levers 30, is mounted on a screw thread 41 on the lower end of a vertical spindle 41 rotatably mounted in the plate 4 guided on the rods 5, so that, when this spindle -4lis rotated, the plate 45 is caused to move vertically, thereby radially shifting the rods 35 through the intermediary of the levers 30. Two adjacent levers 30 on each side of the upper frame'are connected to=a shoulder piece, comprising two hingedly interconnected members 3| a and 3lb (Fig. 6). The member 31a of each shoulder piece has a curved arm 39 projecting outwardlyand downwardly into the medial vertical plane between the members Ski and 3lb. This arm has at its lower end an eye 64 adapted to receive an arm member not shown in the drawings.

Where the levers 35 are shifted, they will also displace the shoulder pieces 3! laterally, thereby adjusting the width across the shoulders.

*On the upper end of the rods aplate 49 is slidably mounted. This plate carries a hollow spindle 48 having a screw thread 48c at its lower endengaging in a screw threaded disc 43b fixed on the rods so that, if the hollow spindle 48 is rotated, it will shift vertically in the disc 48h. Vertical rods 34 are hingedly connected at their upper end to the disc 48 bymeans of a wire 50 extending through the rods 34 and surrounding the disc 49 in a horizontal groove 52. These rods 34 will therefore participate in the vertical movement of the spindle 48. Shoulder rods each com prising a rod 32 having straps in which asecond rod 33 is longitudinally slid'able, are hingedly connected at one end to one of the shoulder pieces-3i and at the other end to one of the neck rods 34 so that, when the disc 49 is vertically shifted, the shoulder rods 34 will swing on the shoulder pieces and determine the inclination of the shoulders. Owing to the rods 32 and 33 being mutually slidable, the length of the shoulder rod can adapt itself to the inclination.

Each of the vertical rods 34 has near-its' lower end two outwardly projecting eyes 34a arranged at ,a distance apart, and in which a guide rod 31 is slidable. To each of the rods 31 a connecting rod I3 is hingedly connected at one end be'tweenthe eyes 3411 on its coordinate rod 34 and at the other end has 2. lug 43a engaging a s'crew 'spindl'e 42 rotatably mounted in a bracket 4| 'mounted on the arm 3ia of the shoulder piece 35. If this spindle 42 is rotated, its shoulder piece 3! willbe shifted laterally, thereby adjusting the width between the shoulders.

When the shoulder piece 3'! moves outwards its rod 35must also move outwards causing the neck rod 34 connected to the rod 35 through the intermediary of the guide rod 31, to swing about-its wire 50. One of the levers 30 is, however also hingedly connected to this rod 35 so that this lever 30 must likewise move outwards and will swing upwards at its inner end under the action of the pin 44 on the plate 45 engaging in the slot 46a in the inclined portion 56 of this lever 38.

The rods 31 are each connected at their lower end to the inner end of one of the rods .55 carrying a shoulder piece so that, when these rods are horizontally shifted, they will also cause the rods 31 to swing around the wire ring 52, thereby automatically adjusting the size of the neck according to the width between the shoulders. As moreover the shoulder bars 32, 33 are connected to the vertical 'rods 34, their position to the horizontal will alsobe automatically adjusted.

The remaining levers 39 at the front and rear of the upper frame are each connected to one end of a telescopic neck rod 352a which is hingedly connected at its other end to the wire ring 52 in the plate 49 (Fig. 2). Thus, when the plate 45 is vertically shifted, these rods 38a like the rods 3d are also swung on the wire ring 52 so that these rods 30a and the rods 34 adjust the size of the neck.

The whole of the framework is enclosed by a casing composed of a large number of mutually displaceable elements 86 to 95 of diiierent shapes as shown in Figs. 8 to 16. These elements are connected to the framework by holders (Fig. 13) which engage square headed screws 85 projecting fom the parts 2!, 30, 30a, 32, 33, 34 and 39 of the framework. These screws have a square head and a slightly thinner neck. On this slightly thinner neck, serving for accommodating the casing holders, discs 85c and 85d are mounted. Between these discs a spiral spring is arranged, bearing against the disc 85d and pressing the disc 850 against the casing holders, so that, when the screw 85 is moved, the disc S50 is forced to yield slightly, in order to avoid bending and not to cause any hindrance. The disc 85d is rigidly connected with the shank of the screw 85 by a pin 85a. The shank has a screw thread.

The casing holders may be of very different shapes. As the casing parts are moved apart, when the trunk is widened, so that gaps are formed between them, the holders 98 to 580 (Figs. 9 to 16) must be slotted and of different length. The screw 85 is passed through the slot. The holders 98 are pivotably connected with the casing parts. Holders 96, the casing parts of which are carried along by the bows, are rigidly connected with the casing parts and have only a hole in which the screw 85 rotatably engages. The individual holders must not hamper one another. They must therefore be set'off so that they can pass the one along the other. These are shown in Fig. 9-. How the set oir portions are carried out is to be determined from case to case.

-A number of casing parts in the waist region must mutually guide one another. The casing of the waist-region, the rear side of which is shown in Fig. 9, consists of trapeziformed parts 86 13089. Some of these trapeziformed parts are further subdivided and held together by hinges. At the subdivided portions the parts 35 to 89 are of four cornered shape. The subdividing of this triangle at 90 and Qi is necessary, owing to the di-iierent body shapes.

In order to reproduce these shapes, the hinge is adjustable.

The parts 88a are rigidly connected with a rigid flap MI. The parts 88 are rigidly connectedwith a flap I02. The flaps i9! and 102 are hinged together. A screw I03 is guided by and mounted in the flap I02, the shank of. said screw engaging in the nut part I04 of the flap IGI. The shape of the casing is altered by the turning of the adjusting screw I33, which bends outwards or inwards the casing parts.

The casing part 81a. is mounted by the holder 96 on the adjusting screw 85w by which it is carried along at every movement. The casing part 88a is also mounted on the screw 85 and carried along thereby. In the case of a lengthening of the waist the trunk parts moveapart and carry the casing part 880. in upward direction, whereas the case part 81a is moved in downward direction. The narrow end of the part 8! is moved along the part 88 and held in a certain position by a holder I06, sliding up and down on a Wire I of the part 88. The nar-, row end of the part 88 is guided on the part Bl in a similar manner, so that a mutual guiding is obtained. For this reason it is possible to carry out an alteration in the length of waist without horizontal gaps being formed.

In the case of a widening of the trunk the casing parts 81a and 81 (Fig. are also-guided along by the screw 85a through the holder 96 following the movements of the bow 2|. The narrow ends of the casing parts 31 and 88 are held in vertical and horizontal position on the wires I05 in the manner above described, so that the third fastening end of the part BIa must yield to the movements of the parts 81 and 88, caused by the holder 98 rotatably mount ed on the casing parts and holding together the end of the casing parts only in the plane position with regard to casing parts, the screw 35b sliding along in the slots ID! of the holders 98, because all the casing parts move away from the screw 85b. The parts 86 and 89 also make this movement. The narrow end of the part 89 is guided by the holder 9'! that slides in bearings of the casing part 89.

The holder I00 on the other hand is rigidly connected with the casing part 86 and slides along the screw. The casing parts 90 are guided along by the holder 96, and held by the holders 09 in height and width position and by the holder 98 at the third corner in the height position.

I claim:

1. A tailors dummy, comprising in combination a casing composed of a plurality of mutually displaceable elements of different shapes, holders connecting said elements, .a framework in said casing and composed of an upper frame at the chest portion of the dummy and a lower frame at the belly portion of the dummy, each of said frames comprising a plate, a plurality of members radially shiftable relative to said plate, a common central element, leversconnecting each of said members to said central element, means projecting from said members and connected to said holders, and a vertical spindle engaging said central element and adapted tobe rotated to vertically displace said central element to radially shift said members through the intermediary of said levers to vary the girth of said casing at the chest and belly portions of the dummy respectively, and means for mutually displacing said frames in vertical direction to adjust the length of said casing.

2. In a tailors dummy a chest framework, comprising in combination a stationary plate, two parallel vertical rods extending through and fixed in said plate, a screw threaded disc rigidly mounted on said vertical rods, a disc slidable on said rods and having an annular groove in its circumference, a hollow spindle rotatably mounted in said slidable disc and having a screw thread at its lower end engaging said screw threaded disc, a wire ring in the groove of said slidable disc, a plurality of neck rods pivotally mounted at one end to said wire ring at the front and back of the dummy, slotted levers connected to the other end of said neck bars, a vertical spindle extending through said hollow spindle and rotatably mounted in said plate between said vertical rods, said verticalspindle having a'screw thread at its lower end, a plate having a central screw threaded hole engaging said screw thread and adapted to be vertically shifted'by said vertical spindle, pins projecting from the periphery of said last mentioned plate, each engaging in the slot of one of said levers to rock said levers and swing said neck rods on said slidable ring to adjust the size of the neck, lateral vertical rods pivotally mounted on said slidable disc, a telescopic shoulder bar connected at one end to each' of said rods, two shoulder pieces one hingedly mounted on the other end of each of said shoulder bars, slotted levers one connected to the lower end of each of said shoulder pieces and engaging with its slot the pins projecting at the sides of said shiftable plate, said last'mentioned levers adapted to swing said shoulder pieces outwards on said shoulder bars during the displaceent of said shiftable plate, guide rods radially shiftable on the under side of said stationary plate and each connected at one end to one of said last mentioned levers,

vertical rods extending through said stationary plate and each slidably connected to one-of said lateral pivotally mounted rods and adapted to transmit the movement of said last mentioned levers to said lateral rods through the intermediary of said guide rods to vary the inclination of said shoulder bars to the horizontal, and means connected to each of said last mentioned vertical rodsand to each of said shoulder pieces adapted -to laterally shift between said shoulder pieces-and determine the length of said telescopic shoulder bars.

3. In a tailors dummy a belly framework, comprising in combination two superposed stationary plates, guides on the underside of the upper of said plates, horizontal bars shiftable in said guides radially to said upper plate, vertical curved elements one on the outer end of each of said horizontal bars, bell-crank levers pivotally mounted on the upperside of the lower of said plates, arms inwardly projecting from said curved elements and each hingedly connected to one arm of one of said bell crank levers, a common screw nut connected to the other arm of all of saidv bell crank levers, a vertical spindle journalled in said superposed plates and having a screw thread engaging said nut, and means for rotating, said spindle to vertically displace said nut and radially shift said curved elements through the interf mediary of said bell crank levers.

4. In a tailors dummy the combination of an adjustable framework with a movable chest portion composed of adjustable elements, a casing carried by said adjustable elements composed of small triangular elements, holders for said triangular elements, adjusting screws connecting said triangular elements to said holders, wires and adjustable hinges on several of said casing elements adapted to mutually support one another.

ERNST STERLING.

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