EP2344113A2 - Agent pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques comprenant des derivés cationiques du pyridine - Google Patents

Agent pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques comprenant des derivés cationiques du pyridine

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Publication number
EP2344113A2
EP2344113A2 EP09747847A EP09747847A EP2344113A2 EP 2344113 A2 EP2344113 A2 EP 2344113A2 EP 09747847 A EP09747847 A EP 09747847A EP 09747847 A EP09747847 A EP 09747847A EP 2344113 A2 EP2344113 A2 EP 2344113A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
alkyl
amino
alkyl group
alkoxy
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP09747847A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Hartmut Manneck
Astrid Kleen
Wibke Gross
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2344113A2 publication Critical patent/EP2344113A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present application relates to combinations of additives for matting bleaches of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, and also enhancers of the bleaching power of oxidizing agents for bleaching keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, based on specific, cationic pyridinium derivatives. Furthermore, gentle means for bleaching keratinic fibers are disclosed without undesirable color shift in yellow to reddish shades. In addition, a use for bleaching keratinic fibers without undesired color shift and a method for bleaching using the agent according to the invention are described.
  • Blondier Let the means to have to accept.
  • the oxidants contained in these products are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin.
  • the use of hydrogen peroxide - optionally with the use of ammonia or other alkalizing agents - is sufficient as the oxidant alone.
  • additional bleach activators such as persalts are required as additional peroxide sources, and / or carbonates as additional alkalizing agents.
  • the natural hair color is determined by melamine in the hair fiber cortex, the ratio of the two pigment classes, eumelanins with brownish-black tones and pheomelanins with reddish-orange tones, the actual hair color certainly.
  • the natural melanin dyes are destroyed by oxidative action and thus a decolorization of the fibers is achieved.
  • hairs are not uniformly decolorized due to different oxidative destruction rates of the various melanin pigment classes.
  • In darker fibers with high melanin content usually a certain proportion of natural dyes remains, which is often reflected in yellowish to reddish nuances. Therefore, especially when bleaching darker hair, there is a color shift towards warm tones.
  • the bleaching step and the matting step are usually carried out sequentially.
  • a single-stage bleaching which already includes the matting color balance of the unwanted warm tones, is particularly advantageous.
  • the oxidative whitening is accompanied by damage to the hair, since not only the natural coloring components of the hair but also the other structural components of the hair are damaged. components of the hair are oxidatively damaged. Depending on the severity of the degree of damage, this ranges from rough, brittle and difficult to comb hair over a reduced resistance and tear resistance of the hair to hair breakage. The greater the amount of hydrogen peroxide used and, where appropriate, the peroxodisulfates, the greater the damage is usually caused on the keratin fiber. Brightening agents which show good brightening performance without simultaneously damaging the hair fiber are not yet known.
  • solid or paste-like preparations with solid oxidizing agents are usually mixed with a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution immediately before use. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed again after a certain exposure time.
  • the exposure time on the hair to achieve a complete whitening lightening is between about 30 and 60 minutes.
  • bleaching agents hitherto on the market generally show good lightening performance, they can not be considered optimal due to hair damage, long application times and the possible skin irritation due to the high concentrations of oxidizing and alkalizing agents. There is therefore a need for bleaching agents which achieve a good color balance by the addition of stable matting components in the application preparation and at the same time cause the least possible damage to the hair.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for the treatment of keratinic fibers which is characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one coloring matting combination which comprises at least one coloring component and which is suitable for lightening the keratinic fiber to compensate for yellowish and / or reddish color impressions remaining in the fiber by a corresponding complementary coloring, b) and contains at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I),
  • R1 represents a C- ⁇ -C6 alkyl group, a partially or completely halogenated C 1 -C 6 -
  • Alkyl group a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group, a C-rC 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a carboxy-CrC ⁇ -alkyl group, an aryl C-rC 6 alkyl group, an amino C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a mono (C 1 -C 6 alkyl) amino C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a di- (C 1 -C 6 alkyl) aminoC C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a heteroarylCrC 6 -alkyl group, a 3-oxobutyl group, a 2-oxopropyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
  • R2 and R4 are each independently hydrogen, C- ⁇ -C4 alkyl group, a partially or completely halogenated C- ⁇ -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -AIkOXy- group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, a Amino group, one a C ⁇ -Ce-acylamino group, a halogen or an acyl group R'C (O), where R 'is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group or a C 1 -C 6 - Alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, and R 3 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, a partially or fully halogenated C- ⁇ -C 6 alkyl group, C- ⁇ -C 6 alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono- (C- ⁇ -C6 alkyl
  • R2 together form a fused cyclus six membered aromatic carbocycle
  • R3 optionally additionally carries 1 to 3 substituents independently selected from C-
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a partially or completely halogenated C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono (C.rC 6 alky
  • keratin-containing or keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • compositions according to the invention are suitable in the first place for dyeing and / or lightening keratin-containing fibers, in principle there is no obstacle to their use also in other fields.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • a mandatory ingredient comprises means, at least one coloring Matt istskombination comprising at least one coloring component and which is adapted to compensate for the lightening of the keratin fiber in the fiber remaining yellowish and / or reddish color impressions by a corresponding complementary coloring.
  • mixtures of different coloring components are particularly suitable for this, since in general the color balance can be precisely adjusted by small variations in the composition of the mixture.
  • the coloring matting combination contains at least one color-changing component which is preferably selected (1) from at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or (2) from at least one substantive dye.
  • oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and / or coupler type are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and / or coupler type.
  • the mattifying brightening agents according to the invention comprise as oxidation dye precursors at least one coupler and at least one developer component.
  • the mattifying brightening agents according to the invention may also contain substantive dyes as nuances.
  • Preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole-1 -yl) - propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2 hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N,
  • developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use matting brightener.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.
  • Preferred coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5 Amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-amino-phenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4 Diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diamino phenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [
  • resorcinol particularly preferred is resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy -2- amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 1-naphthol and one of their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt .-%, each based on the ready-for-use matting brightener.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one substantive dye.
  • These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 0.1 wt .-%.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 15.985, Food Yellow No. 3, FD & C Yellow No. 6), 2,4-dinitro 1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl.10.316; Acid Yellow 1, Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1, 3-dion-2-yl) quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of Mono- and disulphonic acid) (Cl.47,005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No.
  • Acid Red 51 N- [6- (diethylamino) -9- (2,4-disulfophenyl) -3H-xanthen-3-ylidene] -N-ethylethanammonium hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 45, 100; Acid Red 52), 8 - [(4- (phenylazo) phenyl) azo] -7-naphthol-1,3-disulphonic acid disodium salt (CI 27,290; Acid Red 73), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'- Tetrabromo-3 ', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9' - [9H] xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (Cl.45, 380; Acid Red 87), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3', 6'-dihydroxy
  • Acid Blue 62 2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-5-sulfo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -2,3-dihydro-3-oxo-1H-indole-5-sulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 73.015, Acid Blue 74), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -3 - [(2-methylphenyl) -amino] -6 - [(2-methyl-4-sulfophenyl) amino] xanthylium inner salt.
  • Acid Black 52 4- (acetylamino) -5-hydroxy-6 - [(7-sulfo-4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] naphth-1-yl) azo] -1-naphthalenedisulfonic acid tetrasodium salt (Cl Food Black No. 1), 3 ', 3 ", 5', 5" -tetrabromophenolsulfonphthalein (bromophenol blue), 3 ', 3 ", 4,5,5', 5", 6,7-octabromophenolsulfonephthalein (tetrabromophenol blue).
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 well-known compounds, as well 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro 2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-
  • direct dyes also naturally occurring dyes can be used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, brownwood, mallow, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.
  • the composition of the invention comprises a coloring matting combination comprising a combination of at least one blue direct dye and one red direct dye, wherein the weight ratio between the sum of all blue substantive dyes and the sum of all red substantive dyes is one of greater than or equal to 1.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the total weight of all blue direct dyes is greater than the total weight of all red substantive dyes. Preferred agents are therefore characterized in that the weight ratio between the sum of all blue direct dyes and the sum of all red direct dyes has a value of 1 to 100, preferably from 1, 5 to 10 and particularly preferably from 2 to 4.
  • the agent in the coloring matting combination contains as blue direct-dyeing dye at least one anionic substantive dye.
  • the agent contains at least one compound according to formula (I) and / or one of its physiologically tolerable salts as a blue direct-acting dye wherein
  • R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7 and R 8 are each independently hydrogen, fluoro,
  • Chlorine, bromine, iodine, a hydroxy group or a nitro group Chlorine, bromine, iodine, a hydroxy group or a nitro group.
  • the compound according to formula (II) is in deprotonated form as one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Physiologically acceptable salts are alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, it being possible to use both ammonium itself and also primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary ammonium salts. These include, for example, the salts of the cations 2-hydroxyethylammonium, di (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, tri (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, triethylammonium and tetraethylammonium.
  • Preferred salts of the compound according to formula (II) are sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium and ammonium salts.
  • compounds of the formula (I) are pH-dependent in tautomeric equilibrium with their cyclized form of the formula (IIa) and / or one of their physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred agents contain as blue direct dye a compound according to formula (II) and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts, wherein at least one of the substituents R 1, R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 is fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine.
  • agents are characterized in that the agent contains as blue direct-dye at least one compound which is selected from the A group which is formed from compounds of the formula (II) and / or one of their physiologically tolerable salts in which a) R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7 and R 8 are bromine, b) R 1, R 4, R 5 , R6, R7 and R8 are bromine and R2 and R3 are hydrogen, c) R1 and R4 are hydrogen and R2, R3, R5, R6, R7 and R8 are bromine, d) R1, R2, R3 and R4 are fluorine and R5, R6, R7 and R8 are bromo, e) R1, R2, R3 and R4 are chlorine and R5, R6, R7 and R8 are bromine, f) R1, R2, R3 and R4 are iodine and R5, R6 , R7 and R8 are bromine, g) R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 are chlorine, in
  • R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7 and R 8 are iodine
  • m) R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 are fluorine and R 5, R 6, R 7 and R 8 are iodine
  • n) R 1, R 2, R3 and R4 are chlorine and R5, R6, R7 and R8 are iodine or o) R1, R2, R3 and R4 are bromine and R5, R6, R7 and R8 are iodine.
  • the agent contains a compound according to formula (II) and / or one of its physiologically tolerable salts in which the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7 and R 8 are bromine.
  • This compound is also known by the names 3 ', 3 ", 4, 5, 5', 5", 6,7-octabromophenolsulfonephthalein or tetrabromophenol blue.
  • the agent contains at least one anionic substantive dye as red direct-acting dye, preferably from the group of fluorescein dyes.
  • the agent contains as red substantive dye at least one compound according to formula (III) and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts
  • R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15 and R16 each independently represent hydrogen, fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, a hydroxy group or a nitro group.
  • the compound of the formula (III) is present in deprotonated form as one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Physiologically acceptable salts are alkali metal metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, wherein both ammonium itself as well as primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary substituted ammonium salts can be used. These include, for example, the salts of the cations 2-hydroxyethylammonium, di (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, tri (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, triethylammonium and tetraethylammonium.
  • Preferred salts of the compound according to formula (I) are sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium and ammonium salts.
  • compounds of the formula (III) are pH-dependent in tautomeric equilibrium with their cyclized form of the formula (IIIa) and / or one of their physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred agents contain as red substantive dye, a compound according to formula (III) and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts, wherein at least one of the substituents R9, R10, R1 and / or R12 is hydrogen, chlorine, bromine or iodine.
  • agents are characterized in that the agent contains as red direct substantive dye at least one compound which is selected from the group which is formed from compounds of the formula (III) and / or one of their physiologically tolerable salts, in which a) R9, R10, R11 and R12 are chlorine and R13, R14, R15 and R16 are bromine (known as Acid Red 92), b) R9 and R12 are chlorine, R11 and R12 are hydrogen and R13, R14, R15 and R16 are bromine (known as Acid Red 98), c) R9, R10, R11 and R12 are chlorine and R13, R14, R15 and R16 are iodine (known as Acid Red 94), d) R9, R10, R11 and R12 are hydrogen and R13, R14, R15 and R16 are bromo (known as Acid Red 87), or e) R9, R10, R11 and R12 are hydrogen and R13, R14, R15 and R16 are iodine (known as Acid Red
  • the agent contains a compound of the formula (III) and / or one of its physiologically tolerable salts in which the radicals R 9, R 10, R 1 and R 12 are Chlorine and R13, R14, R15 and R16 for bromine (known as Acid Red 92).
  • This compound is also known under the name D & C RED no. 28 or phloxin B known.
  • Dye combinations preferred according to the invention are those which contain at least the combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 98, tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 94; Tetrabromphenol Blue and Acid Red 87 or Tetrabromphenol Blue and Acid Red 51.
  • a dye combination comprising at least one combination of a compound according to formula (II) in which R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 is bromine, and a compound of formula (IM) wherein R 9, R 10, R 11 and R 12 is chloro and R 13, R 14, R 15 and R 16 is bromo (tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92).
  • the agent contains further substantive dyes.
  • the agent particularly preferably contains, as further substantive dye, a yellow and / or orange dye.
  • the yellow dyes are selected from suitable yellow nitro dyes, such as 1, 2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI. 76,020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2 -Hydroxyethoxy) -2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4- [(2,3-Dihydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol, 2 - [(2-hydroxy ethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-dia
  • Suitable yellow or orange quinone dyes are in particular 2 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (HC Orange 5) and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI 75,480, Natural Orange 6).
  • Neutral, yellow or orange azo dyes can also advantageously be used according to the invention, in particular 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methylbenzene (HC Yellow 7), 2,6- Diamino-3 - [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] pyridine, 2 - ⁇ [4- (acetylamino) phenyl] azo ⁇ -4-methylphenol (CI 11855, Disperse Yellow 3), 4 - [(4-nitrophenyl ) azo] -aniline (CI 11, 005; Disperse Orange 3).
  • anionic substantive dyes are in particular 6-hydroxy-5 [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 15.9855, Food Yellow No. 3, FD & C
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are in particular 3 - [(4-amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethylbenzenaminium chloride (CI 12,605, Basic Orange 69), di [4- (dimethyl) amino) phenyl] iminomethane hydrochloride (CI 41, 000; Basic Yellow 2), 2- [2 - ((2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) amino) ethenyl] -1,3,3-trimethyl-3H-indole 1-ium chloride (Cl 48.055, Basic Yellow 11), 3-methyl-1-phenyl-4 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) azo] pyrazol-5-one chloride (Cl 12.719; Basic Yellow 57).
  • Preferred yellow or orange, cationic substantive dyes are Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31.
  • Particularly preferred yellow or orange, nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Yellow 13, HC Orange 1 and Disperse Orange 3, especially HC Yellow 13.
  • the agents according to the invention comprise at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I),
  • Alkyl group a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkyl hydroxyalkyl group, a -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6, a carboxy-CrC ⁇ -alkyl group, an aryl Ci-C ⁇ alkyl group, an amino C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a mono- (-C 6 alkyl) - amino-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a di- (C- ⁇ -C 6 alkyl) amino-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a heteroaryl-CrC ⁇ -alkyl group, a 3-oxobutyl group, a 2-oxopropyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
  • R2 and R4 are each independently hydrogen, a dC ⁇ alkyl group, a partially or fully halogenated -C 6 alkyl group, C 1 -C 6 -AIkOXy- group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono- (CrC 6 - Alkyl) -amino group, a di- (C 1 -C 6 -alkyl) -amino group, a C ⁇ -Ce -acylamino group, a halogen or an acyl group R'C (O), where R 'is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group or a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, and R 3 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a partially or completely halogenated C 1 -C 6
  • R 2 and R 3 together form a fused six-membered aromatic carbocycle optionally additionally having 1 to 3 substituents which are selected independently of one another from C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, partially or completely halogenated C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, C 2 - C 6 alkenyl group, hydroxy group, amino group, mono- (Ci-C 6 alkyl) amino, di- (CrC 6 - alkyl) amino, Ci-C 6 alkoxy, halogen, nitro group, nitrile group, carboxyl group, optionally substituted aryl , or optionally substituted heteroaryl, and R4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a partially or fully halogenated C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group , a mono- (C 1 -C 6 -alky
  • C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 ,
  • C r C 6 -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 ,
  • Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are methyl and ethyl.
  • Examples of partially or completely halogenated C 1 -C 6 -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 2 F,
  • Examples of a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group are a prop-2-enyl group (allyl group), a 2-methyl-prop-2-enyl group, a but-3-enyl group, a but-2-enyl group, a pent-4 -enyl group or a pent-3-enyl group.
  • the prop-2-enyl group is particularly preferred in this context.
  • Examples of a d-Ce-alkoxy group are -OCH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -OCH (CH 3 ) 2 or
  • Examples of a d-Ce-alkoxycarbonyl group are -C (O) OCH 3 , -C (O) OCH 2 CH 3 ,
  • halogen examples include fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine, in particular fluorine and chlorine.
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 3 ,
  • Examples of a carboxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group are the carboxymethyl group, the 2-carboxyethyl group or the 3-carboxypropyl group.
  • aryl-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
  • heteroaryl-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group examples include the pyridin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-3-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-4-ylmethyl group, the pyrimidin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyrrol-1-ylmethyl group, the pyrrole 1-ylethyl group, the pyrazol-1-ylmethyl group or the pyrazol-1-yl-ethyl group.
  • Examples of a mono- or di- (C 1 -C 6 -alkyl) aminoC 2 -C 6 -alkyl group are the 2-methylaminoethyl group, 2-ethylaminoethyl group, 2-dimethylaminoethyl group, 2-diethylaminoethyl group,
  • An example of an aryl group is the phenyl group, the 1-naphthyl group or the 2-naphthyl group.
  • heteroaryl group examples include the pyridin-2-yl group, the pyridin-3-yl group, the
  • anion X " according to formula (I) is selected from halide, in particular chloride, bromide and iodide, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, C-rC 4 -alkyl sulfonate, trifluoromethanesulfonate, acetate, trifluoroacetate, perchlorate, Vi sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, hexafluorophosphate or tetrachlorozincate.
  • halide in particular chloride, bromide and iodide
  • benzenesulfonate p-toluenesulfonate
  • C-rC 4 -alkyl sulfonate trifluoromethanesulfonate
  • acetate trifluoroacetate
  • perchlorate Vi sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, tetrafluo
  • the physiologically acceptable anion X ' is a halide (particularly chloride or bromide), hydrogen sulfate, 1 ⁇ sulfate, p-toluenesulfonate, benzenesulfonate and acetate is.
  • compositions of the invention contain the cationic pyridinium derivatives of general structure (I) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • a preferred embodiment of the present invention are agents containing at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I) wherein
  • R1 represents a C- ⁇ -C6 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group hydroxy, a C- ⁇ -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a carboxy C- ⁇ -C6 alkyl group, an aryl C- ⁇ -C 6 alkyl, amino-alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6, a (C- ⁇ -C6 alkyl) amino C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a di- (C "rC 6 alkyl) amino-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a heteroaryl-C- ⁇ -C6 alkyl group, a 3-oxobutyl group, a 2 Oxopropyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
  • R 2 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono-C 1 -C 6 -alkylamino group, a dialkyl (C 1 -C 6 -alkyl) -amino group, a C ⁇ -Ce-acylamino group, a halogen or an acyl group R'C (O), where R 'is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a C C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group or a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, and R 3 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, a hydroxy group , a nitrile group, an amino group,
  • Preferred agents contain as cationic pyridinium derivative at least one compound according to formula (I) wherein
  • R1 is a Ci-C 6 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group hydroxy, a Ci-C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, an aryl-C C 6 alkyl group or a 2-oxopropyl group, R 2 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen or an acyl group
  • R'C (O) where R 'is a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, and R3 is hydrogen, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R2, R4 or R5 for an acyl group R'C (O) in which R 'represents a dC ⁇ alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group or a hydroxy C- ⁇ -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group.
  • Preferred compounds of the formula (I) are those in which the radical R 1 has the general structure (I) for a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, for a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group or for a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group stands.
  • the radical R 1 of the formula (I) is a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, more preferably methyl.
  • regioisomers are encompassed in which the substituent R5 is either in the 6-position (ie in the ortho position relative to the nitrogen atom of the pyridine ring) or in the 5-position (ie in the meta position relative to the nitrogen atom). Atom of the pyridine ring) sits.
  • Preferred cationic pyridinium derivatives are characterized in that the substituent R5 is in the 6-position, and are therefore represented by compounds according to (IV):
  • Particularly preferred cationic pyridinium derivatives according to the invention are characterized in that at least one of the radicals R 2 or R 4 represents an acyl group R'C (O), wherein R 'is a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group or a CrC 6 -Akoxy-C 2 - C 6 alkyl group.
  • R'C (O) acyl group
  • R ' is a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group or a CrC 6 -Akoxy-C 2 - C 6 alkyl group.
  • Such compounds are 4-acyl-pyridinium derivatives and 2-acylpyridinium derivatives according to formulas (V) and (VI):
  • Particularly advantageous compounds are those acyl-pyridinium derivatives according to the formulas (V) or (IV) in which R3 is hydrogen, R2, R4 and R5 are each independently hydrogen or an acyl group R'C (O) and R 'is a methyl group stands.
  • agents according to the invention contain as cationic pyridinium derivative of general structure (I) at least one compound from the group formed from 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium benzene sulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium bromide, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium chloride, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2 Acetyl-1-allylpyridinium benzenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium bromide, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium chloride, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 2-acetyl-1-
  • a further preferred embodiment of the agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent contains as cationic pyridinium derivative at least one compound according to formula (I), wherein L is a CH 2 -CH 2 group,
  • R 1 is a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group, a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy- Ci-C ⁇ alkyl group, an aryl Ci-C ⁇ alkyl group, an amino C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a (C- ⁇ -C 6 alkyl) amino C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a di- (C- ⁇ -C 6 alkyl) amino-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, a heteroaryl-Cr C 6 alkyl group, a 3-oxobutyl group, a 2-oxopropyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
  • R2 and R3 together form a fused six membered aromatic carbocycle, which may optionally additionally carries 1 to 3 substituents independently selected from Ci-C 6 alkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, hydroxy group, amino group, mono- C 1 -C 6 -alkylamino group, di- (C 1 -C 6 -alkyl) amino group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, halogen, nitro group, nitrile group, carboxy group, optionally substituted aryl radical, or optionally substituted heteroaryl radical, and R 4 is Hydrogen, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, Ci-C 6 alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono-C-
  • Particularly preferred cationic pyridinium derivatives according to formula (I) are cationic 3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium derivatives according to formula (VII),
  • R1 is a Ci-C 6 alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group, a
  • -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl group a carboxy-C
  • compositions contain as cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I) a compound selected from
  • those agents are particularly preferred which are characterized in that at least one 3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium derivative according to formula (VII) is selected from compounds of the group which is formed from N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium-p- toluene sulfonate, N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinobenzenesulfonate, N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium bromide, N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium hydrogensulfate, N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium acetate, N- Allyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, N-allyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium benzene sulfonate, N-allyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium bromide, N-allyl-3,4-d
  • the inventive compositions contain as cationic pyridinium derivative of the formula (I) N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • compositions according to the invention comprising at least one coloring matting combination which comprises at least one coloring component and which is suitable for compensating yellowish and / or reddish color impressions remaining in the fiber when the keratinic fiber is lightened by a corresponding complementary coloring, and at least one cationic pyridinium Derivatives according to formula (I) can be used particularly advantageously in lightening agents for keratinic fibers, in particular for human hair.
  • Such brightening agents contain oxidizing agents for the oxidative destruction of natural and / or artificial hair dyes.
  • Common oxidizing agent is in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • Another object of the present invention is a means for whitening and / or bleaching keratinischer fibers, which is characterized in that it comprises mixing at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to solid Carrier, and at least one preparation (A) is prepared, wherein the preparation (A) in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one coloring Matt michskombination comprising at least one coloring component and which is suitable for lightening the keratin fiber to compensate for yellowish and / or reddish color impressions remaining in the fiber by a corresponding complementary coloring, b) and contains at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I),
  • R2 and R4 are each independently hydrogen, a Ci-C 4 alkyl, -C 6 - (alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono- Ci-C 6 alkyl-amino group, a di- Ci-C 6 alkyl) amino group, a C 2 -C 6 acylamino group, a halogen or an acyl group R'C (O), in which R 'represents a -C 4 - alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group, or a -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 represents alkyl group,
  • R 3 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a monoCrC ⁇ -alkylamino group, a di (C 1 -C 6 -alkyl) -amino group, a C ⁇ -Ce- Acylamino group or a halogen, with the proviso that at least one of R 2 , R 4 or R 5 is an acyl group R'C (O), where R 'is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxy alkyl group or a -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 is alkyl, or
  • R2 and R3 together form a fused six membered aromatic carbocycle which optionally additionally carries 1 to 3 substituents which are independently selected from -C 6 alkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, hydroxy group, amino group, mono-CrC 6 alkyl amino group, di- (C 1 -C 6 -alkyl) amino group, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, halogen, nitro group, nitrile group, carboxy group, optionally substituted aryl, or optionally substituted heteroaryl, and R4 represents hydrogen, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, Ci-C 6 alkoxy group, a hydroxy group, a nitrile group, an amino group, a mono-C
  • the bleaching power of the oxidation agent of the preparation (B) is significantly increased, so that a stronger lightening can be achieved.
  • the addition of the coloring Matt istskombination is suitable to compensate for the lightening of the keratinic fiber in the fiber remaining yellowish and / or reddish color impressions by a corresponding complementary coloring
  • Particularly preferred agents for whitening and / or bleaching keratinic fibers are obtained by mixing at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to solid carriers, and at least one preparation (A) which is in a cosmetic Carrier at least one coloring matting combination and at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I) prepared, wherein the preparation (A) is characterized in that the coloring matting combination as a coloring component, a combination of at least one blue direct dye and a red substantive Contains dye, wherein the weight ratio between the sum of all blue direct dyes and the sum of all red direct dyes has a value of greater than or equal to 1, and the total amount of substantive dyes 0.0 001 to 0.2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent is.
  • the keratin fiber bleaching compositions according to the invention comprise at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B).
  • Hydrogen peroxide is used as a solution or in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidinone n H 2 O 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide used.
  • Very particularly preferred according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions.
  • Concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; Preferably, 3% to 12% by weight solutions in water are used.
  • the agents according to the invention particularly preferably comprise hydrogen peroxide.
  • compositions according to the invention for bleaching keratinic fibers which contain 0.5 to 18% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 2.5 to 12% by weight and in particular 3 to 9% by weight.
  • % Hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 O 2 ).
  • Oxidizing agent preparations (A) according to the invention are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizing agent preparations.
  • preferred preparations are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation - based on their weight - 40 to 98 wt .-%, preferably 60 to 97.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70 to 97 wt .-%, more preferably 75 to 96 wt .-% and in particular 80 to 95 wt .-% water.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.
  • complexing agents are so-called complexing agents.
  • Complex images are substances that can complex metal ions.
  • Preferred complexing agents are so-called chelate complexing agents, ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, i. H. at least "bidentate". The number of bound ligands depends on the coordination number of the central ion.
  • Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts.
  • Complex-forming polymers, ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain themselves or in the side thereof, which can act as ligands and generally react with suitable metal atoms to form chelate complexes can be used according to the invention.
  • the polymer-bound ligands of the resulting metal complexes can originate from only one macromolecule or belong to different polymer chains.
  • Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA, and phosphonates, preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkane phosphonates and, in particular, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-di-phosphonate (HEDP) or its di- or tetrasodium salt and / or ethylenediaminetetra methylenephosphonate (EDTMP or its hexasodium salt and / or diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) or its hepta or octasodium salt.
  • HEDP 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-di-phosphonate
  • EDTMP ethylenediaminetetra methylenephosphonate
  • DTPMP diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate
  • the oxidizing agent preparation (B) contains, in addition to the actual oxidizing agent and optionally complexing agent further auxiliaries and additives. So it has according to the invention as preferably proved, when the oxidizing agent preparation contains at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • the ready-to-use bleaching agents of preparation (A) and oxidizing agent preparation (B) should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12. Particularly preferred is the application in an alkaline medium. Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is that the ready-to-use agent has a pH of between 7.0 and 12.0, preferably between 8.0 and 11.0.
  • the pH values for the purposes of the present invention are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids.
  • Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol; in particular monoethanolamine.
  • preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain an inorganic alkalizing agent.
  • the inorganic alkalizing agent of the present invention is preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain the alkalizing agents in amounts of from 0.2 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight.
  • a particularly preferred dosage form of the agent of the second subject of the invention is a kit of parts, which in separately prepared containers at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its attachment compounds to solid support, and at least a preparation (A) is prepared, wherein the preparation (A) in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one coloring matting combination which comprises at least one coloring component and which is suitable for lightening the keratinic fiber in the fiber remaining yellowish and / or reddish color impressions by a corresponding complementary coloring to compensate, b) and at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I).
  • kit of parts contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioning agent.
  • packaging unit may comprise application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, in particular one-way gloves, and, if appropriate, instructions for use.
  • the lightening power of the compositions according to the invention is markedly increased, so that it may be possible to dispense with the addition of further bleach boosters, which leads to a reduced hair damage.
  • additional bleaching power enhancers may be necessary to incorporate additional bleaching power enhancers into the composition for particularly high lightening, especially for very dark, highly pigmented, starting hair colors. If such a strong lightening is desired, it is preferred according to the invention if, in addition, a bleaching preparation (C) comprising at least one bleaching power enhancer is added to the mixture of oxidizing agent preparation (B) and the preparation (A).
  • a further embodiment of the present application is therefore an agent for bleaching keratinic fibers, which comprises mixing at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds onto solid carriers, at least one bleaching preparation (C ), containing at least one bleaching power booster, and at least one preparation (A) is prepared, wherein the preparation (A) in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one coloring matting combination which comprises at least one coloring component and which is suitable for lightening the keratinic To compensate for fiber remaining in the fiber yellowish and / or reddish color impressions by a corresponding complementary coloring, b) and at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I).
  • the total amount of coloring components of the coloring matting combination is 0.0001 to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • bleaching preparation (C) it is possible in the context of this invention to use peroxo compounds, furthermore compounds which give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids and / or substituted perbenzoic acid under perhydrolysis conditions, carbonic acid derivatives, alkyl carbonates, carbamates, silyl carbonates and carbamates.
  • the bleaching force enhancer is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.
  • Particularly preferred bleach boosters are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxodiphosphate, magnesium peroxide and barium peroxide.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which contain at least one inorganic salt selected from peroxymonosulphates and / or peroxodisulphates in the bleaching formulation (C) as bleaching force enhancers. Furthermore, it has proved to be particularly preferred in the work of the present invention, when the compositions of the invention contain at least two different peroxodisulfates.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the peroxo compounds are contained in an amount of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally carried out in the form of an optionally dedusted powder, paste or molded molding.
  • compositions according to the invention instead of and / or in addition to the solid peroxo compounds contain a further bleaching power amplifier.
  • bleach amplifiers it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylene diamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, especially tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or i-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5- diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacetylethylened
  • Carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts are used. These are preferably selected from the group of the ammonium, alkali metal (in particular sodium and potassium) and alkaline earth metal (in particular magnesium and calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.
  • Bleach enhancers of the alkyl carbonates and carbamates type as well as silyl carbonates and silicon carbamates can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions and are characterized by compounds of the formula (BV) wherein
  • R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle,
  • X is a group O or NR 3, wherein R 3 is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle, and
  • R 2 is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, in particular sodium, or a group SiR 3 in which the radicals R independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably one Trimethylsilyl distr or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy or amino group.
  • compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R1 in formula (BV) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl and also hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl.
  • Preferred radicals R 2 and R 3 in the formula (BV) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, t-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals. Preferred radicals R in the formula (BV) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R in formula (BV) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n- Butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.
  • the bleach boosters used in addition to or instead of peroxo compounds are preferred in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic agents By means of, included.
  • Anhydrous in the sense of the present invention means a water content based on the preparation (C) of less than 5 wt .-%, in particular of less than 2 wt .-%. Blondierzurungen containing less than 0.1 wt .-% water, according to the invention may be very particularly preferred.
  • the preparation (C) is preferably formulated as a powder or as an anhydrous paste.
  • the preparation (C) at least one non-hydroxylated fatty acid ester having a melting point of at most 50 0 C, in particular of at most 30 0 C, and / or at least one Ci O - C 30 fatty acid with at least one additional hydroxyl group and / or a derivative thereof.
  • a particularly preferred dosage form of the agent is furthermore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), which in separately packaged containers contains at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from Hydrogen peroxide and its attachment compounds to solid supports, at least one
  • Bleaching preparation (C) containing at least one bleaching power enhancer and at least one preparation (A), wherein the preparation (A) in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one coloring matting combination which comprises at least one coloring component and which is suitable for whitening To compensate for the yellowish and / or reddish color impressions remaining in the fiber of the keratinic fiber by a corresponding complementary coloring, b) and contains at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I).
  • the composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one nonionic component having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0.
  • preparation (A) containing a coloring matting combination and a cationic pyridinium derivative and the oxidizing agent preparation (B) and optionally a bleaching preparation (C)
  • B oxidizing agent preparation
  • C optionally a bleaching preparation
  • the nonionic component having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 is preferably incorporated into the preparation (A) containing a coloring matting combination and at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I) ,
  • Nonionic in the sense of the invention means that the component does not form any ions in aqueous solution.
  • the HLB value is a measure of the water or oil solubility of compounds introduced by Griffin (1950), with compounds having low HLB values having more hydrophobic properties than compounds having high HLB values.
  • HLB value reference is explicitly made to the statements in Hugo Janistyn, Handbuch der Kosmetika und Riechstoffe, IM. Volume: The personal care products, 2nd edition, Dr. med. Alfred Wilsonhig Verlag Heidelberg, 1973, pages 68-78 and Hugo Janistyn, Paperback of modern perfumery and cosmetics, 4th edition, Scientific Publishing Company m.b.H. Stuttgart, 1974, pages 466-474, as well as the original works cited therein.
  • Nonionic components with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 can be used for the purposes of the invention fats, oils, waxes or nonionic emulsifiers.
  • fats and oils are understood as meaning solid, semi-solid or liquid, more or less viscous products of the plant or animal body, which consist essentially chemically of mixed triglycerides of higher fatty acids.
  • Preferred vegetable oils are macadamia nut oil, kukui nut oil, palm oil, amaranth seed oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, evening primrose oil and tea tree oil.
  • Mineral oils, in particular paraffin oils or waxes can also be used according to the invention.
  • waxes in particular esters of long-chain C 24 -C 36 fatty acids (wax acids) with long-chain alcohols (fatty alcohols), triterpene or steroid alcohols (for example Ambrein, betulin), which are widespread in plants and animals.
  • wax soaps include, for example, natural recent waxes such as bee or carnauba wax, which also contain free carboxy and hydroxy groups, which cause the emulsifying capacity of so-called wax soaps, and further natural fossil waxes, for example from lignite or petroleum, as well as waxes from the fisherman -Tropsch synthesis or polyethylene waxes mainly from straight-chain hydrocarbons; Depending on their provenance, however, fossil waxes may also contain branched or cycloaliphatic hydrocarbons.
  • the composition according to the invention contains a nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers are, after all, surface-active substances which do not form ions in aqueous solution.
  • the carrier of the surface-active action is therefore the total molecule.
  • the hydrophilicity of such nonionic emulsifiers is achieved by the proportion of polar groups in the molecule.
  • the nonionic emulsifiers include fatty alcohols, polymerization products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, alkyl esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or alkylphenols and their alkoxylates.
  • Preferred nonionic components are fatty alcohols bearing 6 to 30 carbon atoms in their alkyl chain.
  • the alkyl chain may contain one or more branches as well as cis and / or trans-configured double bonds. Examples thereof are hexyl alcohol (caproic alcohol), heptyl alcohol (oenanthalcohol), octyl alcohol (capryl alcohol), nonyl alcohol (pelargonyl alcohol), undecyl alcohol, undec-10-en-1-ol, dodecyl alcohol (lauryl alcohol), 2,6,8-trimethyl 4-nonanol (isolauryl alcohol), tridecyl alcohol, tetradecyl alcohol (myristyl alcohol), pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol or palmityl alcohol), heptadecyl alcohol, octadecyl alcohol (stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, (9Z) octadec-9-en
  • mixtures of fatty alcohols which are obtained by specific mixing or by extraction processes as such.
  • examples include coconut oil (mixture of C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohols) or cetearyl alcohol (1: 1 mixture of C 16 - and Ci 8 fatty alcohols).
  • Nonionic components with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 are ethylene glycol ethers with fatty alcohols.
  • ethylene glycol ethers of the abovementioned fatty alcohols can be used.
  • degree of ethoxylation is meant the molar amount of ethylene oxide used per mole of fatty alcohol.
  • Preferred ethylene glycol ethers according to the invention are, for example, laureth-1, laureth-2, laureth-3, isolaureth-1, isolaureth-2, isolaureth-3, trideceth-1, trideceth-2, trideceth-3, myreth-1, myreth-2, myreth 3, ceteth-1, ceteth-2, ceteth-3, steareth-1, steareth-2, steareth-3, oleth-1, oleth-2, oleth-3, ceteareth-1, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3 , Coceth-1, Coceth-2, Cocoeth-3, Pareth-1, Pareth-2 and Pareth-3. Particularly preferred are ceteth-1, laureth-2, ceteth-2, steareth-2, oleth-2, laureth-3, isolaureth-3, trideceth-3, ceteareth-3 and oleth-3.
  • nonionic components with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 are addition products of fatty alcohols with propylene oxide.
  • propylene glycol ethers of the abovementioned fatty alcohols can be used, with propylene glycol ethers being preferred with fatty alcohols having a low degree of propylenation.
  • the degree of propylenation is understood to mean the molar amount of propylene oxide used per mole of fatty alcohol.
  • Preferred ethylene glycol ethers according to the invention are, for example, PPG-1 lauryl ether, PPG-2 lauryl ether, PPG-3 lauryl ether, PPG-1 isolauryl ether, PPG-2 isolauryl ether, PPG-3 isolauryl ether, PPG-1 tridecyl - ethers, PPG-2 tridecyl ethers, PPG-3 tridecyl ethers, PPG-2 myristyl ethers, PPG-3 myristyl ethers, PPG-1 cetyl ethers, PPG-2 cetyl ethers, PPG-3 cetyl ethers, PPG-1 stearyl ethers, PPG-2 stearyl ethers, PPG 3 stearyl ethers, PPG-1 oleyl ethers, PPG-2 oleyl ethers, PPG-3 oleyl ethers, PPG-1 cetearyl ethers, PPG-2 cetearyl
  • fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms in the fatty acid group are likewise usable according to the invention, provided they meet the criterion according to the invention of an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0.
  • Polyhydric alcohols are preferably ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan or sugar and homo- or hetero-oligomers thereof.
  • Esters of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol according to the invention are both the monofatty acid esters and the difatty acid esters with (poly) ethylene and / or propylene glycols.
  • Preferred fatty acids are, for example, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic and oleic acids.
  • Preferred compounds include ethylene glycol monofatty acid esters, propylene glycol monofatty acid esters, ethylene glycol difatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol monofatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol difatty acid esters.
  • Particularly preferred compounds according to the invention are ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol (100) monostearate, polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate, diethylene glycol monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (200) dilaurate, polyethylene glycol (100) monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (100) monooleate , Polyethylene glycol (200) dioleate or polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate.
  • mono-, di- or triflic acid esters of glycerol, its oligomers or its addition products with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide are preferred.
  • glycerol monofatty acid esters, glycerol difatty acid esters and glycerol triflic acid esters are preferred.
  • Exemplary compounds of this type are glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl trioleate, Glyceryltricocoat, glyceryl dilaurate, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl dioleate, Glyceryldicocoat, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monooleate and glyceryl.
  • mono- or poly fatty acid esters of polyglycerides can also be used according to the invention nonionic components.
  • Decaglycerol decaoleate, decaglycerol octaoleate, decaglycerol decastearate, triglyceryl diisostearate or diglycerol monostearate are mentioned by way of example.
  • triglycerides of hydroxyl-bearing fatty acids in particular castor oil, which can be used cured or uncured.
  • Ethoxylated castor oil is particularly preferred.
  • nonionic components are fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, in particular pentaerythritol monofatty acid esters.
  • pentaerythritol monolaurate pentaerythritol monomyristate
  • pentaerythritol monopalmitate pentaerythritol monostearate and pentaerythritol monooleate.
  • nonionic components are fatty acid esters of sorbitan as the polyhydric alcohol, in particular sorbitan monofatty acid esters, sorbitan aldehyde esters and sorbitan trifatty acid esters.
  • sorbitan monofatty acid esters examples include sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan tripalmitate, sorbitan trimyristate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan trilaurate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dipalmitate, sorbitane myristate, sorbitane disostearate, Sorbitan dilaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan mono- myristate, sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan monolaurate.
  • fatty acid diesters or polyesters with sugars in particular sucrose, as their addition products with propylene oxide and / or ethylene oxide as nonionic components, provided that these compounds have an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0.
  • sugars in particular sucrose
  • sucrose as their addition products with propylene oxide and / or ethylene oxide as nonionic components
  • these compounds have an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0.
  • examples of such compounds include sucrose dilaurate, sucrose dimyristate, sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose distearate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose tristearate, and polypropylene glycol sucrose tetrapalmitate.
  • Esters of branched non-hydroxylated C 6 -C 30 -Alkylmonocarbonäuren with optionally, C 1 - C 30 mono-alcohols are suitable according to the invention preferred as alkyl esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with monoalcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol moieties in the esters are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl sterearate, cetyl oleate, cocoyl caprinate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate or decyl oleate.
  • Preferred compounds carry 6 to 21, in particular 6 to 15, carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.
  • Preferred representatives of these compounds are octylphenol and nonylphenol, optionally alkoxylated with 1 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.
  • Particularly suitable examples are octoxynol-1, octoxynol-2, octoxynol-3, nonoxynol-1, nonoxynol-2 and nonoxynol-3.
  • nonionic component having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol monoethylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol ethylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol triethylene glycol ethers, glycerol monofatty acid esters, glycerol fatty acid esters, glycerol triflic acid esters, sorbitan monofatty acid esters, sorbitan dibutyl esters, sorbitan trifatty acid esters, pentaerythritol monofatty acid esters, ethylene glycol monofatty acid esters, ethylene glycol difatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol monofatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol difatty acid esters, sucrose diesters, propylene glycol monofatty esters and fatty acid alkyl esters.
  • Agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one fatty alcohol as nonionic component with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0.
  • fatty alcohols having 12, 14, 16 or 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain are preferred.
  • the nonionic component having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 to 1, 0 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, in particular to 2.0 wt .-% to 25 wt. % and most preferably at 3.0 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, present in the composition according to the invention.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation (B) and / or the preparation (A) containing the matting dyes are preferably formulated as flowable preparations.
  • an emulsifier or a surfactant is added to the flowable preparations (A) and / or (B), surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application, and anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers are selected. These substances will be described in detail below.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimide.
  • azolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylamino-ethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 -C 18 acyl sarcosine.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain other nonionic surfactants which they do not fall under the above-described nonionic components having an HLB value of 8.0 or smaller.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are, in particular, C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs.
  • the nonethoxylated compounds have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • Further preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.
  • Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent ,
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines (eg stearamidopropyldimethylamine).
  • esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier or surfactant having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers or surfactants having an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes
  • zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate tert-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers
  • anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidine / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic acid anhydride copolymers and acrylic
  • a further subject of the present invention is a process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent is obtained by mixing at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its adducts to solid carriers, at least one bleaching preparation ( C), containing at least one bleaching power booster, and at least one preparation (A) is prepared, wherein the preparation (A) in a cosmetic carrier at least one coloring Matt michskombination comprising at least one coloring component and which is suitable for whitening the keratinic fiber contained in the fiber yellowish and / or reddish color impressions by an appropriate complementary coloring, and at least one cationic pyridinium derivative according to formula (I) containing the agent for a period of 2 to 60 minutes , preferably 5 to 45 minutes is left in the hair, and the hair is then rinsed with water and / or a commercial shampoo.
  • an agent is obtained by mixing at least one oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one
  • Another object of the present application is finally the use of an agent according to one of the aforementioned subject matter for matting during the whitening and / or bleaching keratinischer fibers, in particular human hair.
  • an agent according to one of the aforementioned subject matter for matting during the whitening and / or bleaching keratinischer fibers, in particular human hair.
  • HvdrenoT D INCI name Cetearyl alcohol (Cognis) Lorol® ® tech. INCI name: Coconut alcohol (Cognis) Eumulgin ® B1 INCI Description of product: Ceteareth-12 (Cognis) Eumulgin ® B2 INCI Description of product: Ceteareth-20 (Cognis) Akypo ® Soft 45 NV INCI name: Sodium Laureth-5 carboxylate ( KAO Chemicals) Plantacare ® 1200 UP INCI name: lauryl Glucoside (Cognis) Texapon ® K 14 S 70 C INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate (Cognis) Turpinal ® SL INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water) (Solutia) Sodium silicate 40/42 Sodium water glass Disponil ® FES 77 INCI name: Sodium Coceth-30 Sulfate (Cognis)
  • Each bleaching cream was blended in a ratio of 1: 1 with a developer dispersion composed as follows.
  • the pH of the finished application mixture was between 9 and 10.2.
  • the bleaching process 4 times the amount of the finished application mixture was applied to strands of medium-blond hair of about 0.7 g weight. After the strands were bleached for 30 minutes at 32 0 C, they were washed with a commercial shampoo and dried with a hair dryer.
  • Each bleaching cream was mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the developer dispersion described under 1.
  • the pH of the finished application mixture was between 9 and 10.2.
  • For the Blondierrind 4 times the amount of the finished application mixture was applied to strands of medium blond hair of about 0.7 g weight. After the strands were bleached for 30 minutes at 32 0 C, they were washed with a commercial shampoo and dried with a hair dryer.
  • Each Blondiercreme was mixed in the ratio 1: 1 with the following developer dispersion.
  • the pH of the finished application mixture was between 9 and 10.2.
  • Genamin STAC INCI name Steartrimonioum Chloride (Clariant)
  • the bleaching process 4 times the amount of the finished application mixture was applied to strands of medium-blond hair of about 0.7 g weight. After the strands were bleached for 30 minutes at 32 0 C, they were washed with a commercial shampoo and dried with a hair dryer.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents de traitement de fibres kératiniques caractérisés en ce qu'ils comprennent, dans un support cosmétique, au moins un dérivé cationique de pyridinium, et une combinaison de matification colorante comportant un composant colorant et conçue pour compenser les effets chromatiques jaunâtres et/ou rougeâtres qui persistent dans la fibre, par coloration complémentaire correspondante, lors de l'éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques. En outre, l'invention concerne de tels agents doux de coloration blonde des cheveux, contenant en plus au moins une préparation d'agents oxydants et éventuellement une préparation de renforcement d'éclaircissement, ainsi qu'un procédé d'application et d'utilisation de tels agents, en tant qu'agents éclaircisseurs doux. Les agents selon l'invention permettent également d'éviter que les couleurs ne virent au jaunâtre et au rougeâtre de manière intempestive lors de la coloration blonde.
EP09747847A 2008-11-12 2009-11-05 Agent pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques comprenant des derivés cationiques du pyridine Ceased EP2344113A2 (fr)

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DE200810057018 DE102008057018A1 (de) 2008-11-12 2008-11-12 Kombination von kationischen Bleichaktivatoren und Farbstoffen
PCT/EP2009/064713 WO2010054981A2 (fr) 2008-11-12 2009-11-05 Combinaison d'activateurs d'éclaircissement cationiques et de colorants cationiques

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US9565915B2 (en) 2011-11-09 2017-02-14 L'oreal Compositions and methods for altering the appearance of hair
WO2013071194A1 (fr) 2011-11-09 2013-05-16 L'oreal Compositions et procédés pour modifier l'aspect des cheveux
US9566221B2 (en) 2012-11-09 2017-02-14 L'oreal Methods for altering the color and appearance of hair
CN105007984B (zh) 2012-11-09 2018-07-17 欧莱雅 用于改变头发颜色和外观的方法
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