EP2330240A1 - Procédé pour tricoter une étoffe et étoffe tricotée - Google Patents

Procédé pour tricoter une étoffe et étoffe tricotée Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2330240A1
EP2330240A1 EP10015202A EP10015202A EP2330240A1 EP 2330240 A1 EP2330240 A1 EP 2330240A1 EP 10015202 A EP10015202 A EP 10015202A EP 10015202 A EP10015202 A EP 10015202A EP 2330240 A1 EP2330240 A1 EP 2330240A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
knitting
bind
stitches
course
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP10015202A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP2330240B1 (fr
Inventor
Kazuyoshi Okamoto
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd filed Critical Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
Publication of EP2330240A1 publication Critical patent/EP2330240A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2330240B1 publication Critical patent/EP2330240B1/fr
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitting method of knitted fabric using a flat knitting machine, by joining front and back knitted fabric portions through a bind-off process while knitting the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion so as to sequentially reduce knitting widths at front and back needle beds, and a knitted fabric obtained by the knitting method.
  • the front and back knitted fabric portions are closely joined by the bind-off process when knitting the front and back knitted fabric portions at the front and back needle beds, respectively.
  • the bind-off process is a process of repeating the overlapping of the stitches that are proximate in the final course of the knitted fabric, and the knitting of forming a new stitch on the overlapped stitches (double stitch) from one end side to the other end side in the knitting width direction of the knitted fabric.
  • Patent Document 1 discloses joining a front body 2F and a back body 2B through the bind-off process while knitting the front body 2F and the back body 2B at a portion above the upper end (position of the chain dashed line in the figure) of an armhole portion 4 of a sweater 1 including a body 2 and a sleeve 3, as shown in Fig. 3 .
  • the knitting width of each of the front body 2F and the back body 2B reduces from the chain dashed line toward an upper wale direction, so that an inclined line portion 6 formed when the front body 2F and the back body 2B are joined on the armhole portion 4 side fits the shape of the shoulder of a human body.
  • Two courses are knitted at a reciprocation with the armhole portion side as a turning end for each body since various drawbacks occur if the bind-off process is carried out with a yarn feeder for knitting the body left on the side to apply the bind-off process and hence the yarn feeder needs to be kept left on the neckline portion side. That is, when forming the inclined line portion by the conventional flechage knitting using a tuck, a step difference for the two courses is always formed, which is the cause of the step-like difference formed at the inclined line portion.
  • a third yarn feeder for performing the bind-off process needs to be used in addition to the two yarn feeders for knitting the front body 2F and the back body 2B, respectively, since the flechage knitting of turning back on the inclined line portion side is carried out.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and it aims to provide a knitting method of a knitted fabric by joining front and back knitted fabric portions through a bind-off process while knitting the front and back knitted fabric portions so as to sequentially reduce knitting widths thereof without performing flechage knitting using a tuck, and a knitted fabric formed by applying the knitting method.
  • the knitting method of knitted fabric according to the present invention is a method of knitting a knitted fabric, using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds so that stitches held on knitting needles of one of the needle beds can be transferred to different knitting needles, by joining front and back knitted fabric portions through a bind-off process while knitting the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion so as to sequentially reduce knitting widths at front and back needle beds.
  • one course of the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion is knitted using one of a yarn feeder used to knit the front knitted fabric portion and a yarn feeder used to knit the back knitted fabric portion, or one course of the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion is knitted using the respective yarn feeders, before implementing this knitting method of knitted fabric, so that the two yarn feeders are separately arranged on a side to perform the bind-off process and an opposite side thereof. Then, the stitches of the front knitted fabric portion and the stitches of the back knitted fabric portion are alternately performed with the bind-off process using the yarn feeder on the side to perform the bind-off process.
  • the bind-off process in the knitting method of knitted fabric according to the present invention may be a known bind-off process and is not particularly limited. For instance, it is possible to use the bind-off process of overlapping adjoining stitches of the same needle bed and forming a new stitch on such double stitch, or the bind-off process of overlapping proximate stitches of different needle beds and forming a new stitch on such stitches.
  • the knitting of the front knitted fabric portion and the bind-off process on both of the knitted fabric portions may be carried out using one yarn feeder, and the knitting of the back knitted fabric portion and the bind-off process on both of the knitted fabric portions may be carried out using the other yarn feeder.
  • the back knitted fabric portion front knitted fabric portion
  • the bind-off process of joining the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion is performed using the yarn feeder used in the knitting of the front knitted fabric portion (back knitted fabric portion).
  • the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion may be reciprocatingly knitted for one course using one yarn feeder, and the bind-off process on both of the knitted fabric portions may be carried out using the other yarn feeder.
  • the turning back in the reciprocate knitting is carried out on the side to perform the bind-off process later.
  • the double stitch formed before knitting the one course is preferably not to be subjected to the knitting for the bind-off process carried out after the knitting of the one course.
  • a knitted fabric knitted by the knitting method of knitted fabric according to the present invention is a knitted fabric including a front knitted fabric portion, a back knitted fabric portion, and an inclined line portion.
  • the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion each include a predetermined width portion having a predetermined knitting width and a small width portion continued into a wale direction of the predetermined width portion and having a knitting width gradually reducing toward the wale direction.
  • the inclined line portion is formed by joining the stitches of the small width portions of the front knitted fabric portion and the back knitted fabric portion through bind-off stitches.
  • the small width portion of each of the knitted fabric portions is formed with the bind-off stitches for every one course, the bind-off stitches being knitted with a knitting yarn for knitting at least one of the predetermined width portion of the front knitted fabric portion and the predetermined width portion of the back knitted fabric portion.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has a characteristic configuration in the processes of knitting, in a case of performing the knitting of the back knitted fabric portion and the bind-off process using the other yarn feeder and in a case of performing the bind-off process using the other yarn feeder.
  • stitches at the end of a knitting course in the small width portion of each of the knitted fabric portions are connected to the bind-off stitch and then are connected to stitches at the end of a knitting course following in the wale direction of the knitting course on the inclined line portion side.
  • the stitches at the end of the knitting course in the small width portion of the front knitted fabric portion are connected to the stitches at the end of the knitting course in the small width portion of the back knitted fabric portion at a position corresponding to the knitting course in the wale direction on the inclined line portion side.
  • the knitting course is performed with the bind-off process every time the front and back knitted fabric portions are knitted for one course, and hence the knitted fabric portions can be joined while knitting the front and back knitted fabric portions without performing the flechage knitting using a tuck upon knitting each of the front and back knitted fabric portions.
  • the respective front and back knitted fabric portions are not knitted continuously for two courses, whereby forming an inclined line in which the portion of joining the knitted fabric portions through the bind-off process is smooth and a knitted fabric of satisfactory appearance can be obtained.
  • a yarn feeder used exclusively for the bind-off process does not need to be used as in the conventional art since the yarn feeder used to knit the front and back knitted fabric portions before implementing the knitting method of the present invention is used for the bind-off process.
  • the double stitches are prevented from being knitted down by knitting each of the knitted fabric portions, as the double stitches for the bind-off process are not to be knitted when knitting each of the front and back knitted fabric portions for one course. If the double stitches are knitted down, the appearance of the knitted fabric may be spoiled since such double stitches are arranged at an area shifted from the inclined line portion of the finished knitted fabric. According to the knitting method of the present invention, on the other hand, the appearance of the knitted fabric is not affected since the double stitches for the bind-off process are lined in the inclined line portion.
  • All knitting processes in the embodiments relate to a knitting example using a two-bed flat knitting machine having a pair of front and back needle beds extending in a transverse direction and disposed opposite to each other in a cross direction, and a transfer jack bed (see e.g., Japanese Patent No. 3000461 ) for transferring stitches held on a knitting needle of the needle bed.
  • the knitting of the present embodiment can be implemented even with a two-bed flat knitting machine not including such a transfer jack bed by arranging an empty needle for transferring stitches. There may be obviously used a four-bed flat knitting machine.
  • the knitting method of knitted fabric of the present invention is applied to the knitting of an ordinary sweater 1 shown in Fig. 3 .
  • the sweater 1 is knitted up to an upper end (the chain dashed line in Fig. 3 ) of an armhole portion 4, which is a joining portion of a body 2 and sleeves 3, 3 of the sweater 1.
  • a front body (front knitted fabric portion) 2F and a back body (back knitted fabric portion) 2B are joined through a bind-off process while knitting the front body 2F and the back body 2B from the upper end of the armhole portion 4 according to the knitting processes shown in Fig. 1 .
  • the knitting width of each of the front and back bodies 2F, 2B is reduced to form an inclined line portion 6, which joins the front and back bodies 2F, 2B and fits a line of the shoulder of a wearer.
  • Fig. 1 is a knitting process chart showing the knitting at a left shoulder portion (the right side in Fig. 3 ) of the sweater 1 shown in Fig. 3 , where the right side of the figure is the inclined line portion 6 side and the left side of the figure is a neckline portion 5 side of the sweater 1.
  • the "alphabet + number" on the left side in Fig. 1 indicates the order in the knitting processes, the symbol “FB” indicates a front needle bed, the symbol “BB” indicates a back needle bed, the symbol “ ⁇ ” indicates a yarn feeder, and each alphabet indicates a position of the needle of the needle bed. Furthermore, the symbol “O” in Fig.
  • Shown in S0 of Fig. 1 is a state in which stitches (stitches of a predetermined width portion) of the front body 2F are formed on the needles E to P of the FB with a knitting yarn from a yarn feeder 8, and stitches (stitches of a predetermined width portion) of the back body 2B are formed on the needles A to P of the BB with a knitting yarn from a yarn feeder 9.
  • This state corresponds to a state in which the sweater 1 of Fig. 3 is knitted up to the position of the chain dashed line in the figure.
  • Small width portions (portions above the chain dashed line in Fig. 3 ) following in a wale direction of the predetermined width portions of the front body 2F and the back body 2B are then formed from the state of S0.
  • the small width portion is the portion where the knitting width gradually reduces compared to the predetermined width portion in each of the front body 2F and the back body 2B.
  • the yarn feeder 8 is moved to the inclined line portion 6 side to form the stitches on the needles E to O of the FB, while the yarn feeder 9 is moved to the neckline portion 5 side to form the stitches on the needles P, N to A of the BB (S1).
  • the stitch (see S0) on the needle P of the FB is performed with the bind-off process and the stitch on the needle P of the BB is performed with the bind-off process while feeding the knitting yarn from the yarn feeder 8 (S2).
  • the bind-off process at the needle P of the FB (BB) is of forming a new stitch on the stitch held at the needle P, and transferring the new stitch to the needle O of the FB (BB) adjacent to the neckline portion 5 side.
  • the yarn feeder 9 is moved to the inclined line portion 6 side to form the stitches on the needles A to N of the BB (S3), and the stitch on the needle O of the BB is performed with the bind-off process with the knitting yarn from the same yarn feeder 9 (S4).
  • the bind-off process of S4 corresponds to the tuck knitting carried out in the flechage knitting of the conventional art shown in Patent Document 1, and is a process for preventing a hole from being formed in the sweater 1.
  • a new stitch is formed on the double stitch formed on the needle O of the BB in S2 described above, and the new stitch is transferred to the needle N of the FB on the neckline portion 5 side with respect to the needle O of the BB so as to form a double stitch for the next bind-off process on the needle N.
  • the double stitch will not be knitted down in the back body 2B by stopping the back body 2B formed in S3 at one stitch before (the position of the needle N of the BB) the position (the stitch on the needle O of the BB) where the double stitch is held by the bind-off process in S2 when performing the bind-off process in S4.
  • the double stitch can be prevented from being arranged at a position shifted from the inclined line portion 6 which is a connection between the front and back knitted fabric portions 2F, 2B in the sweater 1 shown in Fig. 3 .
  • the back body 2B knitted in S3 may be stopped at the position of the needle M of the BB, and the stitch of the needle N of the BB may be performed with the bind-off process after the stitch of the needle O of the FB is performed with the bind-off process following the bind-off process performed on the stitch on the needle O of the BB in S4.
  • the yarn feeder 8 is then moved to the neckline portion 5 side to form stitches of the front body 2F on the needles M to E of the FB (S5).
  • S5 Upon completion of the knitting in S5, one course is knitted for each of the front body 2F and the back body 2B, and then, these knitting courses are sequentially joined with each other by the bind-off process.
  • the bind-off process is performed on three stitches for each of the front body 2F and the back body 2B (S6 to S8).
  • the position to start the knitting of the front body 2F is set onto the needle M of the FB so that the double stitch for the bind-off process is not knitted down, similarly to the case where the back body 2B is knitted only up to the position of the needle N in S3.
  • the yarn feeder 8 located on the neckline portion 5 side is moved to the inclined line portion 6 side to knit the front body 2F (S9).
  • the stitch (the stitch on the needle L of the FB) at the end on the inclined line portion 6 side held on the FB in the front body 2F is performed with the bind-off process using the same yarn feeder 8, and thereafter, the yarn feeder 9 is moved to the neckline portion 5 side to knit the back body 2B for one course (S10).
  • one course is knitted for each of the front body 2F and the back body 2B, and then, the bind-off process is carried out (S11, S12).
  • the back body 2B is also knitted for one course at the BB using the yarn feeder 9.
  • the positional relationship between the yarn feeders 8, 9 and the formation states of the front and back bodies 2F, 2B in S12 are substantially the same as in S3. Accordingly, the knitting similar to the knitting shown in S3 to S11 may be repeated for the subsequent knitting including S12.
  • the knitting of the first embodiment described above is the knitting of releasing the stitches at the end on the inclined line portion 6 side of each knitting course from the needles of the FB, BB by sequentially performing the bind-off process (S4, S6 to S8) every time the front body 2F and the back body 2B are each knitted for one course (S5, S3). That is, since the knitting yarn is not continuously held on a specific needle and the knitting down of the knitted fabric is not inhibited in the process of increasing the knitting courses of the front and back bodies 2F, 2B, the inclined line portion 6 of great inclination can be formed with respect to the knitting courses.
  • the front body 2F and the back body 2B are not each knitted for two courses and a yarn feeder used exclusively for the bind-off process is not necessary, since the flechage knitting in which tucking is carried out on the side to perform the bind-off process is not performed.
  • the two adjoining knitting courses in the wale direction in each of the bodies 2F, 2B are connected with each other by the bind-off stitches.
  • the knitting course of the back body 2B in S3 is connected to the knitting course of the back body 2B in S10 by the bind-off stitches in S4, and S6 to S8.
  • the step difference for two courses is not formed in the inclined line portion 6 since each of the bodies 2F, 2B is not formed continuously for two courses.
  • the sweater 1 can have the inclined line portion 6 smoother than a conventional sweater.
  • the stitches to perform doubling can be freely selected when carrying out the doubling.
  • the doubling is a process of overlapping some of the stitches lined at the end in the wale direction of each body and reducing the number of stitches lined at this end when joining the front and back bodies in a rib pattern or the like by the bind-off process.
  • double stitches are formed by tucking in the conventional flechage knitting using a tuck. Since the double stitches are difficult to transfer, the double stitches formed by the tucking are difficult to be selected as the stitches to perform the doubling.
  • the stitches to perform the doubling can be freely selected since the tucking is not carried out when knitting the front and back bodies.
  • the knitting method in which the body to knit with each of the yarn feeders 8, 9 is determined, such that the front body 2F is knitted with the yarn feeder 8 and the back body 2B is knitted with the yarn feeder 9.
  • the second embodiment described with reference to Fig. 2 is an example in which the yarn feeder 9 is exclusively used for the knitting of each of the front and back bodies 2F, 2B and the yarn feeder 8 is exclusively used for the bind-off process.
  • the sweater 1 is knitted up to the position of the chain dashed line in Fig. 3 , and the knitting shown in Fig. 2 is started.
  • T0 to T3 of Fig. 2 the knitting processes exactly the same as those in S0 to S3 of Fig. 1 are performed.
  • the yarn feeder 9 is then moved toward the right side in the figure to knit the back body 2B (T3), and thereafter the yarn feeder 9 is moved toward the left side in the figure to knit the front body 2F (T4).
  • the back body 2B and the front body 2F are each knitted for one course by the knitting processes of T3 and T4.
  • the bind-off process is then started.
  • T5 is the process of forming a new stitch on the needle P in T2 and transferring the new stitch to the needle O.
  • T6 is the process of forming a new stitch on the double stitch formed on the needle N (needle M) in T5 (T6), and transferring the new stitch to the needle M (needle L).
  • the yarn feeder 9 is then reciprocated to knit each of the front body 2F and the back body 2B for one course (T8), and thereafter, the yarn feeder 8 is moved to sequentially join the ends on the inclined line portions 6 side of the front and back bodies 2F, 2B through the bind-off process (T9 to T11).
  • the bodies 2F, 2B can be joined through the bind-off process (T5 to T7) while knitting the front body 2F and the back body 2B (T3, T4), without performing the flechage knitting in which tucking is carried out on the side to perform the bind-off process, similarly to the first embodiment.
  • the stitches at the ends of the front body 2F and the back body 2B are connected with each other on the inclined line portions 6 side (T3, T4), and the stitches at these ends are performed with the bind-off process (T5 to T7). That is, also in this sweater 1, a step difference for two courses is not formed at the inclined line portion 6 since each of the bodies 2F, 2B is not knitted continuously for two courses.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
EP10015202.4A 2009-12-04 2010-12-01 Procédé pour tricoter une étoffe et étoffe tricotée Not-in-force EP2330240B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2009276107A JP5349268B2 (ja) 2009-12-04 2009-12-04 編地の編成方法、および編地

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2330240A1 true EP2330240A1 (fr) 2011-06-08
EP2330240B1 EP2330240B1 (fr) 2014-04-23

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EP10015202.4A Not-in-force EP2330240B1 (fr) 2009-12-04 2010-12-01 Procédé pour tricoter une étoffe et étoffe tricotée

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EP (1) EP2330240B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP5349268B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN102086560B (fr)

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CN103849992B (zh) * 2012-11-30 2015-09-30 江苏景盟针织企业有限公司 带有仿缝合缝份的织物与编织该织物的针织机及编织方法
CN103320950A (zh) * 2013-07-08 2013-09-25 宁波慈星股份有限公司 一种双面紧密度收针的方法
JP2015110849A (ja) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-18 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の編成方法
JP6274908B2 (ja) * 2014-02-27 2018-02-07 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の伏目方法
CN105220337B (zh) * 2015-10-20 2017-03-08 珠海建轩服装有限公司 不规则形状毛织片及其制备方法
JP7204414B2 (ja) * 2018-10-23 2023-01-16 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の接合方法及び接合された編地
CN110042546B (zh) * 2019-05-06 2020-10-09 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种全成型前后变化收针的编织方法及其成型织物
CN113699660B (zh) * 2021-08-10 2023-04-07 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 无锯齿感一体收针、加针编织的编织工艺、织物及鞋面
CN113818129B (zh) * 2021-11-08 2023-01-13 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种全成型侧缝开口镂空组织及其编织方法

Citations (3)

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JPH03461B2 (fr) 1982-03-17 1991-01-08 Matsushita Electric Ind Co Ltd
GB2309981A (en) * 1996-02-09 1997-08-13 Shima Seiki Mfg Knitting garments for upper body
JP2006161231A (ja) 2004-12-09 2006-06-22 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 編地の編成方法、編地を編成させるための編成プログラム

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DE4228408A1 (de) * 1992-08-26 1994-03-03 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung eines formgerechten, einstückigen Flachgestricks, für ein mit Ärmeln versehenes Kleidungsstück
CN1143909C (zh) * 1996-02-09 2004-03-31 株式会社岛精机制作所 针织类衣服的针织方法
JP3047008B1 (ja) * 1998-11-26 2000-05-29 株式会社島精機製作所 連結部が形成されたニット衣類の編成方法
TW490521B (en) * 2000-06-02 2002-06-11 Shima Seiki Mfg Method of knitting neck portion of knit wear by flat knitting machine and the knit wear
CN100503924C (zh) * 2003-04-21 2009-06-24 株式会社岛精机制作所 针织物的接合方法
JP4336287B2 (ja) * 2004-10-13 2009-09-30 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機で編まれたｖネックニットウエアおよびその編成方法
JP2008261074A (ja) * 2007-04-12 2008-10-30 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 編地の編成方法
JP2009068124A (ja) * 2007-09-11 2009-04-02 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 筒状編地及びその編成方法

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH03461B2 (fr) 1982-03-17 1991-01-08 Matsushita Electric Ind Co Ltd
GB2309981A (en) * 1996-02-09 1997-08-13 Shima Seiki Mfg Knitting garments for upper body
JP2006161231A (ja) 2004-12-09 2006-06-22 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 編地の編成方法、編地を編成させるための編成プログラム
EP1829996A1 (fr) * 2004-12-09 2007-09-05 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd Procede de tricotage de tissus tricotes, programme de tricotage pour le tricotage de tissus tricotes et tissu tricote

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Publication number Publication date
EP2330240B1 (fr) 2014-04-23
CN102086560B (zh) 2014-05-14
JP2011117102A (ja) 2011-06-16
JP5349268B2 (ja) 2013-11-20
CN102086560A (zh) 2011-06-08

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