EP2175831A2 - Composition de coloration artificielle de la peau comprenant un autobronzant et l'acide dehydroascorbique ou l'un de ses derives monomeres, polymeres ou isomeres - Google Patents
Composition de coloration artificielle de la peau comprenant un autobronzant et l'acide dehydroascorbique ou l'un de ses derives monomeres, polymeres ou isomeresInfo
- Publication number
- EP2175831A2 EP2175831A2 EP08806177A EP08806177A EP2175831A2 EP 2175831 A2 EP2175831 A2 EP 2175831A2 EP 08806177 A EP08806177 A EP 08806177A EP 08806177 A EP08806177 A EP 08806177A EP 2175831 A2 EP2175831 A2 EP 2175831A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- derivatives
- acid
- name
- extract
- skin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
Definitions
- the present invention also relates to a composition for the artificial coloring of the skin comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and / or one of its monomeric derivatives of formula (I) and / or the one of their isomers of formula (T) which will be defined later and / or one of its polymeric derivatives including dimers of formula (II) which will be defined later and (b) at least one self-tanning agent.
- the present invention also relates to a method for artificially coloring the skin and more particularly to an artificial tanning process for the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying thereon a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a ) at least dehydroascorbic acid and / or one of its monomeric derivatives corresponding to the formula (I) defined below and / or one of their isomers of formula (T) defined below and / or one of its polymeric derivatives and (b) at least one self-tanning agent.
- a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a ) at least dehydroascorbic acid and / or one of its monomeric derivatives corresponding to the formula (I) defined below and / or one of their isomers of formula (T) defined below and / or one of its polymeric derivatives and (b) at least one self-tanning agent.
- natural tanning is not always desirable insofar as it requires prolonged exposure to UV radiation, in particular UV-A radiation which causes browning of the skin but in return is likely to induce an alteration of that in particular, in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation (erythema, burns, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature aging of the skin, and others). It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the requirements of such skins.
- Most cosmetic products intended for the artificial tanning of the skin are based on carbonyl derivatives allowing, by interaction with the free amino functions of the skin, in particular the amino acids, peptides and proteins of the skin, the formation of colored products.
- DHA dihydroxyacetone
- DHA DHA
- Another disadvantage of DHA is its tendency to produce yellow / orange shades that hinder the achievement of a natural skin tint. There is therefore a growing demand for quick-acting self-tanning products that impart a closer coloration to natural tanning.
- dehydroascorbic acid or one of its polymers associated with at least one self-tanning agent such as dihydroxyacetone allowed to give, after application of the product on the skin, an artificial color similar to natural tanning, which develops more rapidly (visible from 15 minutes) than traditional self-tanners used alone.
- This combination gives more intense colors whose red component is more marked and allows to offer a range of shades closer to the natural pigmentation compared to those obtained with traditional self-tanners used alone.
- the coloring products according to the invention containing this combination also have the advantage, after application to the skin, of producing very quickly a color (after about 15 minutes) and thus being able to visualize the zone of application of the product. .
- the present invention thus relates to a composition for the artificial coloring of the skin comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a) dehydroascorbic acid and / or at least one of its monomeric derivatives of formula (I) and / or the one of their isomers of formula (I ') and / or one of its polymeric derivatives and (b) at least one self-tanning agent.
- the present invention also relates to a method for artificially coloring the skin and in particular artificial tanning of the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying thereto a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and / or one of its monomeric derivatives of formula (I) and / or one of their isomers of formula (I ') which will be defined later and / or one of its polymeric derivatives and (b) at least one self-tanning agent.
- the term "artificial coloring of the skin” means a durable, non-covering coloring (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not eliminated with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and temporary coloring provided for example by a makeup product.
- polymer will be understood to mean a molecule having in its structure at least two repeating units.
- physiologically acceptable medium means any support compatible with the skin, nails, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition comprising such a support.
- skin self-tanning agent is intended to mean a compound capable of producing, in contact with the latter, a colored reaction with the free amine functions present in the skin, such as amino acids, peptides or the proteins.
- the self-tanning agents are generally chosen from certain mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. -diones as described in the patent application FR
- DHA dihydroxyacetone
- 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342.
- DHA will preferably be used.
- DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
- the self-tanning agent (s) are generally present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- OR 1 OR 2 which may be identical or different, denote OH; an alkoxy radical -C 30 and more preferentially CRCI 8 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; a glycoside and more preferably glucose; an ester of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (preferably C 1 -C 18) aliphatic carboxylic acid, which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (more preferentially d-C 18) alkyl radical; a phosphate group; a sulfate group.
- OR 1 which may be identical or different, denote OH; an alkoxy radical -C 30 and more preferentially CRCI 8 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; a glycoside and more preferably glucose; an ester of a linear or branched,
- R2 denotes an ester of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (preferably C 1 -C 18) aliphatic carboxylic acid, which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle; an aryl, heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (more preferentially C 1 -C 18) alkyl radical.
- C 1 -C 30 preferably C 1 -C 18
- aliphatic carboxylic acid which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle
- an aryl, heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (more preferentially C 1 -C 18) alkyl radical.
- dehydroascorbic acid of formula (I) is also called threo-2,3-hexodiulsono-1,4 lactone, 9Cl, (case 490-83-5) and has the structure:
- polymeric derivatives examples include the dimeric compounds of formula (II) below: in which ORi, OR 2 , OR 3 , OR 4 , identical or different, identical or different, denote OH; an alkoxy radical C1-C30 and more preferably C1-C18, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; a glycoside and more preferably glucose; an ester of an aliphatic carboxylic acid d- C30 (preferably CRCI 8) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, which may be substituted by aryl or heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted by at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (more preferentially C 1 -C 18) alkyl radical; a phosphate group; a sulfate group.
- ORi OR 2 , OR 3 , OR 4 , identical or different, identical or different, denote OH; an alkoxy radical C1-C30 and more
- R 1 and / or R 2 denote an ester of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 (preferably C 1 -C 18) aliphatic carboxylic acid which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle; an aryl, heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one C 1 -C 30 (more preferentially C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
- C 1 -C 30 preferably C 1 -C 18
- aliphatic carboxylic acid which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle
- an aryl, heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one C 1 -C 30 (more preferentially C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
- dimers derived from dehydroascorbic acid of formula (II) mention may be made, in particular, of the following particular compounds:
- the dehydroascorbic acid can be formed "in situ" from ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives or one of its salts by chemical oxidation and / or by enzymatic oxidation. according to the following reaction scheme:
- the oxidation reaction can in particular be efficiently catalyzed by many types of enzymes, for example the ascorbates oxidases produced by most plants as well as certain bacteria, yeasts or animals (EC [1.10.3.3] Lee, MH; Dawson CR Methods Enzymol., 1979, 62, 30-39).
- enzymes for example the ascorbates oxidases produced by most plants as well as certain bacteria, yeasts or animals (EC [1.10.3.3] Lee, MH; Dawson CR Methods Enzymol., 1979, 62, 30-39).
- the invention also relates to a method for artificially coloring the skin, and more particularly artificial tanning of the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying to it a) a first component (B) containing in a physiologically acceptable medium at least a) ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives or salts and b) at least one self-tanning agent; b) a second component (C) containing in a physiologically acceptable medium less a chemical oxidizing agent and / or an enzymatic oxidizing agent; the components (B) and (C) being mixed at the time of use and applied simultaneously to the skin or applied to the skin one after the other.
- the chemical oxidizing agents conventionally used for the oxidation of ascorbic acid or its derivatives or salts are, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates. peracids or their mixtures.
- the enzymatic oxidizing systems used are conventionally oxidase enzymes using either oxygen from the air or a substrate to form hydrogen peroxide, among which mention may be made of 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and ascorbate oxidases. .
- the enzymes used in accordance with the present invention are preferably selected from ascorbates oxidases using oxygen from air. More preferably, the enzymes are chosen from those belonging to the classification according to the Enzyme Commission [1.10.3.3]. They are usually of plant origin.
- the ascorbate oxidase enzyme may for example be derived from the following species: Arabidopsis Brassica, Cucumis Curcubita, Myrothecium, Nicotiana, Oryza, Titicum. More preferably, it is chosen from those derived from Curbita pepo mudullosa (zucchini).
- An ascorbate oxidase enzyme obtained from many other plants including the cabbage (Brassica oleracea), cucumber (Cucumis savitus), pumpkin (Curcubita cv Ebisu Nankin), tobacco (Nicotania tabacum), mustard (Sinapsis alba), rice (Oryza sativa) and wheat.
- Other sources include fungi (Myrotectium verrucaria) and thermophilic bacteria (Acremonium sp., HI-25).
- the enzyme may be present as a solution or in the form of a powder and may be preferably stabilized by buffers, glycerin, sugars or other polyhydroxy compounds, metal chelating agents such as EDTA, thiols, and the like. thioglycerol, mercaptoethanol or dithiothreitol, polyethylene glycol, non-reactive proteins or other enzyme preservatives.
- the enzymes can also be stabilized by covalent modification according to conventional techniques.
- the enzyme may also be immobilized by covalent bonding on a solid support such as surface-modified silica microparticles, alumina, glass, oxyran-modified polymethacrylate, carboxyalkylcellulose, aminoalkylsilice, aminoalkylated glass, aminoalkylcellulose.
- the enzymes may also be adsorbed on hydrophobically or ionically modified particle surfaces such as carboxyalkylcelluloses or dialkylaminocelluloses.
- Another possibility is a covalent bond of the enzyme with a synthetic or biosynthetic water-soluble polymer such as polyethylene glycols, poly (acrylic acid), polyvinyl alcohol, polyethyleneimines, dextran and proteins such as gelatin or uricase.
- Said enzyme is preferably present in the composition resulting from the mixing of components (B) and (C) at contents ranging from 1 to 10,000 ppm, preferably 100 to 1000 ppm.
- the present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device also called “kit” or “necessary for coloring the skin, comprising
- a first compartment comprising component (B) as defined above; a second compartment comprising the component (C) as defined previously.
- the components (B) and (C) can each be independently conditioned in a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element.
- the container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.
- the closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap. on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.
- the product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
- the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag.
- an impregnated support in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag.
- Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538.
- the closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
- the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction.
- latching is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.
- the container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
- the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).
- the container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.
- the container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition.
- the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .
- the components respectively (B) and (C) are packaged in two containers contiguous so as to be secured to one another.
- each container is provided with a dispensing member, for example a pump or a valve.
- a dispensing member for example a pump or a valve.
- this dispensing member is manually operated.
- the pump can also be without air intake in the case where the composition must be preserved from contact with the outside, during its storage time.
- the actuation of these dispensing members conducts the compositions in a mixing chamber of the assembly, so as to ensure a premix to their distribution out of this assembly formed by these two contiguous containers.
- the actuation of these dispensing members leads the compositions into a mixing chamber of the assembly, so as to ensure a premix mixture to their distribution out of this assembly formed by these two contiguous containers .
- the actuation of these dispensing members leads to an output of the compositions without prior mixing.
- a particular embodiment of the invention is a device as described in patent application EP1270444. It is a device for the simultaneous distribution of the two components (B) and (C), packaged separately in first and second soft-walled bags, said device comprising: i) means for fixedly holding the two bags in superimposed position so that respective outlets of said bags are disposed adjacent to each other; and ii) means, movable relative to the fixing means, and able to pressurize the two bags so as to force the output of their contents through their respective outlets in a predetermined ratio.
- Another particular embodiment of the invention is a device as described in patent application EP1300344. It is a device for the joint distribution of the two separately packaged components (B) and (C), comprising: a) a first soft-walled container containing the component (B); b) a second flexible-walled container, external to the first, and containing the component (C); c) a plate on which are mounted the first and second containers; d) a dispensing member movable with respect to the plate and able to pass the device irreversibly from a first configuration in which the first and second containers are isolated from at least one dispensing orifice formed by said dispensing member, in a second configuration in which the first and second containers are in communication with said (or said) orifice (s) distribution.
- the first and second products can be distributed together.
- the joint output of the two products for the production of a composition can be done via a single dispensing orifice, upstream of which there may be a mixing zone in which the two products are brought into contact beforehand. to be distributed in mixed form.
- Another particular embodiment of the device of the invention is a double pump comprising a) two reservoirs, preferably housed in the same outer casing respectively comprising the component (B) or the component (C), preferably housed in the same outer casing ; b) two pumps, each mounted on a tank, c) a single push button, axially movable along a main axis of elongation of the outer casing, and for actuating the simultaneous opening of the two pumps; these two pumps being each further connected by an outlet channel opening on at least one dispensing orifice.
- Said dispensing orifice may be unique and common to both reservoirs. In this case the products come out in mixed form.
- each outlet channel is associated with a distribution orifice which is specific to it.
- the products contained in these tanks are therefore distributed out of the device, without ever having been in contact with the inside of the device.
- This type of variant is described in particular in patents FR2789371; US5,224,627; WO97 / 05040
- Another particular embodiment of the device of the invention is a double aerosol comprising a) two tanks, preferably housed in the same outer casing comprising at least one propellant and respectively component (B) or component (C) b) two aerosol valves, each mounted on a reservoir, c) a single push button movable axially along a main axis of elongation of the outer casing, and for actuating the simultaneous opening of the two pumps; these two valves are each further connected by an outlet channel opening on at least one dispensing orifice.
- Said dispensing orifice may be unique and common to both reservoirs. In this case the products come out in mixed form.
- each outlet channel is associated with a distribution orifice which is specific to it. The products contained in these tanks are then distributed out of the device, without ever having been put in contact beforehand inside the device.
- Another object of the invention therefore consists in a process for artificially coloring the skin and more particularly artificial tanning of the skin, characterized in that it consists in applying to it: a) a first component (A) containing in a physiologically acceptable medium at least dehydroascorbic acid or one of its polymeric derivatives; b) a second component (B) containing in a physiologically acceptable medium at least ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives or salts; the self-tanning agent (s) being present in the component (A) and / or the component
- the self-tanning agent (s) are generally present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) comprising dehydroascorbic acid or one of its monomeric or polymeric derivatives and / or the composition (B) comprising ascorbic acid or one of its salts or derivatives.
- the present invention relates to a multi-compartment device also called “kit” or “necessary skin coloring” selected from (i) a device with two compartments comprising
- a first compartment comprising component (B) as defined above and optionally component (A) as defined previously and
- a device with three compartments comprising: a first compartment comprising component (A) as defined above;
- a second compartment comprising the component (B) as defined previously a third compartment comprising the component (C) as defined previously.
- the multi-compartment devices that can be used can be chosen from those described above.
- the dehydroascorbic acid or one of its polymeric derivatives is preferably used at levels ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.
- Ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives or salts is preferably used at levels ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it. .
- compositions of the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, especially in the form of aqueous gels, in the form of emulsions obtained by dispersing a fatty phase (also called an oily phase) in an aqueous phase ( H / E) or conversely (W / O) or multiple emulsions (e.g. W / O / E or H / E / H or H / H / E).
- a fatty phase also called an oily phase
- W / O multiple emulsions
- They can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a powder, a stick solid and possibly be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
- These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
- the compositions of the invention may be in the form of an emulsion and then comprise at least one oily phase.
- the proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight and better still from 2 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Fatty substances in the oily phase, especially oils, and emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers optionally present, used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
- the emulsifier and the co-emulsifier when present, are generally present in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles in addition to or in place of emulsifiers and / or co-emulsifiers.
- the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
- the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
- the emulsion When the emulsion is multiple, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the external phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
- emulsifiers that can be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names DC 5225 C and DC 3225 C by the company Dow Corning, and as alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning, Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 9 OR by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / Cetyl dimethicone copolyol / Hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09R by Goldschmidt.
- One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of branched chain fatty acid esters and polyol, and in particular the branched chain fatty acid esters and glycerol and / or sorbitan and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, the sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the ICI, isostearate of sorbitan and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
- polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt
- the sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the ICI
- isostearate of sorbitan and glycerol such as the product marketed
- emulsifiers that may be used for the preparation of O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of polyols (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), and for example polyethylene glycol stearates such as stearate.
- nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of polyols (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), and for example polyethylene glycol stearates such as stearate.
- esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of sorbitan comprising, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, and for example those marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by the company Uniqema; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); esters of sugars, alkoxylated or otherwise, such as sucrose stearate and PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate; sorbitan esters such as sorbitan palmitate sold under the name Span 40 by Uniqema; esters of diacid and fatty alcohol, such as dimyristyl tartrate; mixtures of these emulsifiers, for example the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100
- Co-emulsifiers such as, for example, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, may be added to these emulsifiers.
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol
- emulsions without emulsifying surfactants or containing less than 0.5% of the total weight of the composition (A) or (B), using suitable compounds for stabilizing said emulsions, for example amphiphilic polymers, electrolytes.
- suitable compounds for stabilizing said emulsions for example amphiphilic polymers, electrolytes.
- composition of the invention When the composition of the invention is in emulsion form, it comprises at least one oily phase which contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil.
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
- oils that can be used in the composition of the invention it is possible to use, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane); hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or oils of vegetable origin for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, lemon jojoba oil, shea butter oil; synthetic oils; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature; fluorinated oils such as those partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone such as those described in JP-A-2- 295912; ether
- composition of the invention may also contain one or more organic solvents which may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic solvents or mixtures thereof.
- hydrophilic organic solvents mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol; mono- or di-alkyl isosorbide whose alkyl groups have from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as dimethyl isosorbide; glycol ethers such as diethylene glycol mono-methyl or mono-ethyl ether and propylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol methyl ether.
- PPG polypropylene glycol
- esters of polypropylene glycol and of fatty acid of PPG and of fatty alcohol such as PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG-36 oleate.
- lipophilic organic solvents examples include fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate and alkyl benzoates.
- compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, defoamers, perfumes, preservatives, anionic surfactants, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric substances, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
- conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, defoamers, perfumes, preservatives, anionic surfactants, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric substances, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
- carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopols (carbomers), Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer) and homo- and copolymers of acrylamide and / or 2-acrylamido-2-acid methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) such as sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate (and) polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate sold under the trade name SIMULGEL 800 by the company SEPPIC; drifts cellulosics such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and their mixtures.
- carbopols carbomers
- Pemulen acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer
- AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-acid methyl propane sulfonic acid
- SIMULGEL 800 Sorbitan Oleate sold under the trade name SIMULGEL 800 by the company SE
- modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the name Bentone.
- esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid also called Parabens® (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, formalin liberators such as imidazolidinyl urea or diazolidinyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, iodo propynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyl trimethylammonium bromide such as myristyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide) , dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof, such as the mixture sold under the name Cetrimide® by Fef Chemicals.
- Parabens® in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben
- formalin liberators such as imid
- the preservative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and in particular ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight.
- each of these active ingredients can be encapsulated according to conventional encapsulation techniques.
- the artificial coloring processes of the skin and more particularly the artificial tanning of the skin can be applied to the different types of human skin.
- the method is intended for the care of persons with dark skin (especially of phototype IV to VI).
- the method is intended for the care of persons with fair skin (especially of phototype I to III).
- compositions according to the invention containing them may include in addition one or more stabilizers.
- antioxidants By way of example of stabilizer, mention may be made of (1) antioxidants (2) chelating agents,
- polymer or copolymer of non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole any polymer comprising N-vinylimidazole units, and not comprising no crosslinking agent.
- Suitable copolymers for carrying out the invention are, for example, copolymers comprising N-vinylimidazole units and N-vinylpyrrolidone and / or N-vinylcaprolactam units.
- the copolymer has a mole fraction in N-vinylimidazole unit of between 0.1 and 1, and more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.
- the molar ratio between the N-vinylimidazole unit equivalent and the hydrophilic active agent that is sensitive to oxidation varies between 0.004 and 16 and preferably between 0.01 and 1.
- a copolymer of N-vinylimidazole / N-vinylpyrrolidone will be used.
- the weight average molar mass of the N-vinylimidazole polymers will advantageously be between 1000 and 1 x 107 and preferably between 5000 and 5 x 106.
- the vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole copolymer (50/50) having a weight average molecular weight of 1 200 000 sold under the reference LUVITEC VPI 55K72W by BASF or the vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole copolymer (50/50). having a weight average molecular weight of 10,000 sold under the reference LUVITEC VPI 55K18P by the company BASF.
- the polymers or copolymers according to the invention may for example be prepared according to the method described in the patent application WO-97/45517.
- amphiphilic polymers chosen from oligomers or polymers derived from polyisobutylene having a polyisobutylene apolar part comprising at least 40 carbon atoms and at least a terminal polar part consisting of acids or diacids carboxylic acids, their anhydrides or their modified forms in the form of esters, amides or salts, and mixtures thereof as described in the patent application 1481677.
- amphiphilic polymers consist of a polyisobutylene apolar part and at least one polar part.
- the apolar polyisobutylene portion comprises at least 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 60 to 700 carbon atoms. It is important that this portion has at least 40 carbon atoms to achieve the object of the invention. If there are less than 40 carbon atoms, we do not get a very stable system.
- the polar part of these oligomers or of these amphiphilic polymers consists of carboxylic acids or diacids, their anhydrides or their modified forms in the form of esters, amides or salts, and mixtures thereof.
- the terminal polar portion consists of dicarboxylic acids or their anhydrides or their modified forms in the form of esters, amides or salts.
- esters amides or salts
- acids or dicarboxylic acids modified with alcohols, amines, alkanolamines or polyols, or in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts , ammonium or organic base such as diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts.
- the oligomers or polymers derived from succinic acid or anhydride may be chosen in particular from the polyisobutylene derivatives of succinic acid or anhydride described in patents US-A-4,234,435, US-A-4,708,753, US -A-5,129,972, US-A-4,931, 110, GB-A-2, 156,799 and US-A-4,919,179.
- the polyisobutylene part may be hydrogenated or not, with a molecular weight ranging from 400 to 5000.
- the succinic part may be esterified, amidated or in the form of a salt, that is to say that it can be advantageously modified with alcohols, amines, alkanolamines or polyols, or be in the form of metal salts alkaline or alkaline-earth, ammonium or organic base such as diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts.
- the esterified or amidified succinic terminated polyisobutylenes are reaction products of (a) a succinally terminated polyisobutylene, and (b) an amine or an alcohol, to form an amide or an ester.
- amine used herein includes all types of amines including alkanolamines.
- the alcohols may be mono- or poly-alcohols.
- Monoalcohols include primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic alcohols, and phenols.
- the polyalcohols may be, for example, chosen from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, aromatic and heterocyclic polyalcohols.
- the modified succinic terminated polyisobutylenes (esterified or amidated) and their method of preparation are described in particular in US-A-4,708,753.
- succinically-terminated polyisobutylene examples include polyisobutylenes with a modified succinic terminus, such as the products sold under the names LUBRIZOL 5603 and LUBRIZOL 2650 by the company Lubrizol.
- the polymer marketed under the name LUBRIZOL 5603 is used by Lubrizol, which is the esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylene diethylethanolamine salt (INCI name: Hydroxyethyldiethonium polyisobutenyl triethylaminosuccinate / diethylethanolamine).
- polyisobutylene derivative that can be used in the invention is the product of the reaction of maleic anhydride with polyisobutylene, such as the product sold under the name Glissopal SA by the company BASF.
- maleic anhydride copolymer is any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic anhydride comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol vinylpyrrolidone, olefins having 2 to 20 carbon atoms such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene, isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic anhydride comonomers being optionally hydrolyzed, partially or totally.
- Hydrophilic polymers ie polymers having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 2 g / l, will preferably be used.
- Copolymers that are more particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention are copolymers obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic anhydride units and whose maleic anhydride units are in hydrolysed form, and preferably in the form of alkaline salts, for example under form of ammonium, sodium, potassium or lithium salts.
- the copolymer has a molar fraction in maleic anhydride unit of between 0.1 and 1, and more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.
- the molar ratio between the maleic anhydride unit equivalent and the hydrophilic active agent sensitive to oxidation varies between 0.005 and 10 and preferably between 0.01 and 1.
- the weight average molar mass of the maleic anhydride copolymers will advantageously be between 1000 and 500 000 and preferably between 1000 and 50 000.
- a copolymer of styrene and maleic anhydride in a 50/50 ratio will be used. It is possible to use, for example, styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer (50/50), in the form of 30% ammonium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000H® by the company Atofina or the styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer ( 50/50), in the form of 40% sodium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000HNa® by the company ATOFINA.
- compositions according to the invention containing them may also include one or more photoprotective agents.
- the photoprotective agents in accordance with the invention are chosen from hydrophilic and / or lipophilic UV and / or UVB-active organic and / or inorganic UV-screening agents and / or insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
- Hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters are especially chosen from anthranilates; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers
- organic UV filters As examples of organic UV filters, mention may be made of those designated below under their INCI name:
- Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by
- TEA Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS” by Haarmann and REIMER,
- Cinnamic derivatives Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate,
- Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF,
- UVINUL D50 Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
- Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF, Benzophenone-5
- Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by
- Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
- phenyl benzotriazole Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the name trade name "TINOSORB M" by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS,
- Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,
- UVASORB Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB
- Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE
- the preferred organic UV filters are chosen from
- the inorganic filters are chosen from pigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments ( amorphous or crystallized rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.
- pigments average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm
- coated or uncoated metal oxides such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments ( amorphous or crystallized rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.
- the pigments can be coated or uncoated.
- the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
- a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or
- the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
- sicones also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.
- the silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes.
- metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
- coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from the company IKEDA, silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F” from the company IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products "MIC ROTI TAN IUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from the company TIOXIDE, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from the Rhodia company,
- alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, the products” Solaveil CT-10 W “and” Solaveil CT “ 100 “from UNIQEMA and the product” Eusolex T-AVO "from MERCK,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca,
- alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S” from TAYCA,
- iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F” from the company TAYCA,
- silicone-treated titanium oxide pigments are preferably octyl trimethyl silane-treated TiO.sub.2 and the average elemental particle size of which is between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name.
- T 805" by the company Degussa Silices the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm, such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.
- the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by Tayca under the trade names
- the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote” by the company Sunsmart;
- Nanogard WCD 2025 those marketed under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies;
- Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example
- Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
- Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name “COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by the company RHONE POULENC.
- Uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names “NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ,” NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name” TY-220 ".
- coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", “NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", “NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", “NANOGARD FE 45 BL”, or by the company BASF under the name "OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON”.
- the photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions containing dehydroascorbic acid or one of its polymers and / or the compositions comprising ascorbic acid or one of its salts or derivatives in proportions ranging from 0.01 to 20. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions containing dehydroascorbic acid or one of its polymers and / or the Compositions containing ascorbic acid and its derivatives may also comprise one or more additional coloring agents.
- the additional coloring agents may also be chosen from synthetic or natural direct dyes. It can be organic or mineral dyes.
- Liposoluble, synthetic or natural organic dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, yellow quinoline, annatto, curcumin.
- the synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), riboflavin.
- the dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rosé, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin, juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybean, algae, fungi, microorganisms, unsubstituted Flavylium salts in the 3-position such as, for example, those described in patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and the pigments obtainable by extraction by an organic or hydroorganic solvent of a micromycete culture medium of the monascus Monascus type.
- dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as monohydroxyindoles as described in patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or di-hydroxyindoles as described in EP-B -0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole).
- indole derivatives such as monohydroxyindoles as described in patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or di-hydroxyindoles as described in EP-B -0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole).
- These dyes may also be dyes obtained with the compounds comprising at least one aromatic ring having at least two hydroxyl groups (OH) carried by two consecutive carbon atoms of the aromatic ring and a catalytic system comprising a first constituent chosen from salts and oxides Mn (II), and / or Zn (II) and mixtures thereof and a second component selected from alkaline hydrogen carbonates, alkaline earth hydrogencarbonates and mixtures thereof as previously described.
- the additional coloring agents may also be chosen from particulate dyestuffs which are preferably chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents or interference pigments; glitter
- pigments it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.
- the pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
- titanium dioxide optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.
- organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
- effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate being covered or not with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and their mixtures.
- the expression "interferential particles or pearlescent particles” designates any particle generally having a multilayer structure such that it allows the creation of a color effect by interfering with the light rays which diffract and diffuse differently according to the nature layers.
- the coloring effects obtained are linked to the lamellar structure of these particles and derive from the physical laws of thin film optics (see: Pearl Luster Pigments - Physical principles, properties, applications - R. Maisch, M. Weigand, Verlag Moderne Industrie).
- these particles may have varying colors depending on the angle of view and the incidence of light.
- a multilayer structure means indifferently designating a structure formed of a substrate covered with a single layer or a structure formed of a substrate covered with at least two or even more consecutive layers.
- the multilayer structure may thus comprise one or even two layers, each layer, whether or not independent of the other layer (s), being made of at least one material selected from the group consisting of the materials MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.
- the multilayer structure is of inorganic nature.
- the interference particles considered according to the invention may be interferential pigments, or natural or synthetic nacres, monolayers or multilayers, in particular formed of a natural substrate based on, inter alia, mica and which is coated with one or more metal oxide layers.
- the interferential particles according to the invention are characterized in that 50% of the mass population has a diameter (d50) of less than 40 ⁇ m, more particularly less than 30 ⁇ m, in particular less than 20 ⁇ m, and in particular less than 15 ⁇ m, measured by a laser granulometer, such as Malvernet's Mastersizer 2000® or Broockhaven Instrument Corporation's BI90 + ®.
- Mica / tin oxide / titanium oxide mother-of-pearl such as those marketed under the names TIMIRON SILK BLUE®, TIMIRON SILK RED®, TIMIRON SILK GREEN®, TIMIRON SILK GOLD® are particularly suitable for the invention.
- TIMIRON SUPER SILK® proposed by MERCK and nacres mica / iron oxide / titanium oxide such as for example FLAMENCO SATIN BLUE®, FLAMENCO SATIN RED® and FLAMENCO SATIN VIOLET® and FLAMENCO ORANGE 320C offered by the company ENGELHARD and their mixtures.
- these interference particles are operated so as to be otherwise compatible with the requirements in terms of clarity and saturation required for the compositions according to the invention.
- these interferential particles are present in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous effect in terms of color while preserving the natural skin tone.
- these pigments may be present in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the additional coloring agents may also be selected from fluorescent agents.
- Fluorescent agent is a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and / or visible light, re-emits in the visible the portion of light that it has absorbed in the same color as that which it naturally reflects . The naturally reflected color is thus enhanced by the re-emitted color and appears extremely bright.
- Examples that may be mentioned include polyamide and / or formaldehyde / benzoguanamine and / or melamine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide colored resins, among colored aminotriazine / formaldehyde / sulfonamide co-condensates and / or metallized polyester flakes and / or their mixtures.
- These pigments Fluorescents may also be in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments.
- aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent colored sulphonamide co-condensate of medium size 3-4 micron particles sold under the trade name "Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-1" and the aminotriazine / formaldehyde / fluorescent sulphonamide co-condensate.
- the fluorescent substances are preferably present in the composition, at a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.
- organic fluorescent substances are white, they are also called optical brighteners.
- the optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the brightness and brightening the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them to the application on the skin.
- the optical brighteners mention may be made more particularly of stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarines and aminocoumarines, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, and derivatives thereof.
- Such compounds are for example available under the trade names Tinopal SOP and Uvitex OB from CIBA GEIGY.
- optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene-2,2'-disulfonate, 2,5 thiophene di-yl bis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), di-styryl-4,4'biphenyl-di-sodium sulfonate and / or mixtures thereof.
- compositions of the invention may comprise at least one filler.
- fillers it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
- the fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap®).
- silicone resin microspheres Toshiba Tospearls®, for example
- silicone resin microspheres elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, microspheres hollow silica (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, carbon, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
- compositions according to the invention comprising dehydroascorbic acid or one of its monomeric and dimeric derivatives and / or ascorbic acid may comprise in particular at least one mattifying filler, a blooming filler, a fluorescent agent, a filler abrasive or exfoliating and mixtures thereof.
- matrix filler refers to a spherical particle or not, porous or not, having a refractive index less than or equal to 2.2, especially less than or equal to 2, and in particular less than or equal to 1 , 8, preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.
- the "mattifying fillers” according to the invention have a volume size comparable to the nacres used. The preferred size of the charges is therefore less than 15 ⁇ m measured by a laser particle size analyzer, such as, for example, the Malvern Mastersizer 2000® and the Broockhaven Instrument Corporation BI90 +.
- the "mattifying charges" are spherical.
- the "mattifying fillers" are porous.
- the specific surface area of the particles that can be connected to the porosity is greater than 10 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 50 m 2 / g.
- the matifying nature of the fillers according to the invention is defined by a gonioreflectometer measurement. For this, one spreads the composition containing 5% of charges on a contrast card (Pruf recognition type 24/5 - 250 cm2 marketed by the Erichsen company) using a mechanical film gun (wet thickness 30 ⁇ m). The composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37 ° C. and the reflection is then measured using a gonioreflectometer. The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. The value of R is even lower than the mattifying effect is important.
- the mattifying fillers according to the invention are those which at a level of 5% in a cosmetic composition give a value of less than 1, preferably less than 0.75.
- the matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection.
- a value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.
- the mattifying filler may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
- the matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, organopolysiloxane powders crosslinked elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
- mattifying agents examples include:
- starch from rice or maize, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch,
- cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562; - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan , polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
- microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by Expancel under the names Expancel
- Polyamide (Nylon®) powders such as, for example, Arkema's Orgasol type nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index 1, 54,
- silica powders such as Miyoshi Silica beads SB150 of average size 5 microns and refractive index 1, 45, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as Clariant ceridust 9205F PTFE of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1, 36,
- silicone resin powders such as GE Silicone Silicon resin Tospearl 145A having a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41; acrylic copolymer powders, especially of poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA Jurymer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki having an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.49, or the Micropearl M 100® and F 80 ED® particles of the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku,
- wax powders such as paraffin wax microease particles 114S of micropowders of average size 7 microns and refractive index 1, 54,
- polyethylene powders especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Sumitomo Flobeads EA 209 particles (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1, 48 ), the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.
- elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", “KSP-101", “KSP-102", “KSP-103", “KSP-104", "KSP-105" by SHIN ETSU, and
- talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders such as those sold under the name Coverleaf® AR-80 by the company Catalyst & chemicals,
- silica powders such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SUNSPHERE® H51", “SUNSPHERE® H33", “SUNSPHERE® H53” marketed by ASAHI GLASS; polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE® H-33” and “SA SUNSPHERE® H-53” marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; amorphous mixed silicate powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo.
- polyamide powders for example "ORGASOL® 4000” marketed by Arkema, and
- acrylic polymer powders in particular polymethyl methacrylate, for example "COVABEAD® LH85” marketed by WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, “DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER” marketed by Dow Corning, or “Ganzpearl® GMP-0820” marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as for example "POLY-PORE® L200" or “POLY-PORE® E200” marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, "POLYTRAP® 6603" marketed from Dow Corning;
- silicate particles such as alumina silicate
- mixed silicate particles such as:
- magnesium aluminum silicate particles such as saponite or magnesium aluminum silicate, hydrated with a sodium sulphate marketed under the trade name Sumecton® by the company Kunimine;
- magnesium silicate complex hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Matipure® from Lucas Meyer, and their mixtures.
- an extract of pumpkin seeds a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders.
- These fillers can be any material capable of modifying the wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and of masking them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
- silica microparticles such as Myochi's Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 of average size of 5 ⁇ m and the SUNSPHERES® series
- silicone resins such as the NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto OiI and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849; silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE Silicone medium size 4.5 ⁇ m.
- acrylic copolymers in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance the PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 ⁇ m, and the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the company Wackherr and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®.
- wax powders such as paraffin wax microloase® 114S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 ⁇ m.
- polyethylene powders especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto, with an average size of 10 ⁇ m.
- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu.
- talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders for example the Cverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.
- synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers mineral or organic, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.
- crosslinked elastomeric spherical silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning.
- abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
- abrasive silica for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
- the fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.
- the charge can be a "soft focus" charge.
- soft-focus load we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect.
- the "soft-focus” charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
- the "soft-focus” fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- talc silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites
- powders polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
- talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc of average size in number of 1.8 micron and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc , Nylon® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53® by Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-150® by Miyoshi, this list is not limiting.
- the concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20%
- exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin.
- exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin.
- Exfogreen® from Solabia (bamboo extract), extracts of achenes from strawberries (Greentech strawberry Akènes), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally from the field of vegetable powders with abrasive effect include the cranberry powder.
- peach kernel powder As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.
- the additional charge (s) used in the compositions according to the invention may preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 15% and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients.
- the additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules and and / or epidermal and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, receptor antagonists benzodiazepines (PBR), agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensing agents, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, skin microcirculation agents, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebo - regulators or anti-seborrhoeic, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-acne agents.
- moisturizing agents desquamating agents,
- At least one active ingredient chosen from hydrating agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horns, NO-synthases inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBRs), sebaceous gland activity enhancing agents, cell energy enhancing agents, liporestructuring agents, and lipid-promoting agents.
- hydrating agents desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratin
- those skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent selected from desquamating agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents.
- at least one active agent chosen from anti-acne agents, healing agents and anti-inflammatory agents are preferred.
- an active ingredient chosen from slimming active agents and active agents that promote cutaneous microcirculation.
- humectants or moisturizers there may be mentioned in particular glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, pidolate sodium, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24® by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®.
- Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch
- a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a mixture water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB®”; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®.
- a moisturizing agent chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB®”; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of
- treating agent any compound capable of acting:
- ⁇ -hydroxyacids BHA
- salicylic acid and its derivatives including n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid INCI name
- AHA ⁇ -hydroxy acids
- glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid
- urea and its derivatives gentisic acid and its derivatives
- oligofucoses cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chy
- aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
- HPES 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid
- procysteine 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid
- TRILON M glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives
- honey sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucos
- desquamating agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention include: oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acid acetic acid, trilactate of glycerol, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase such as those described in patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase, such as in patent EP 0 899 330, ficus opuntia indica flower extract, such as Exfolactive® from Silab, 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glucose and vitamin F esters, and mixtures thereof.
- Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.
- beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.
- an edsquamant agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; 4- acid (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.
- arginine As agents improving the barrier function, mention may in particular be made of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane®, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y® Activated Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine® SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® from Coletica; uns
- ceramides or derivatives in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2 hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.
- type 2 such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine
- type 3 such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name
- type 5 such as N-2 hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI:
- Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier include an extract of Thermus thermophilus, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, arginine, serine, ceramides including type 3 and 5; and their mixtures.
- serine, aginine or their mixture will be used.
- depigmenting agents mention may in particular be made of alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid.
- homogentisate methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the melt extract marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.
- Preferred depigmenting agents are alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D calcium panthein sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid and vitamin B3.
- a kiwi fruit water (Actinidia chinensis) sold by Gattefosse an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®.
- tocopherol and its esters in particular tocopherol acetate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves like those of Silab, green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, brown algae extract pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane®, chlorogenic acid , biotin, chelating agents such as BHT, BHA, N 1 N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and salts thereof; idebenone, plant extracts horn Pronalen Bioprotect TM from the company Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol
- DHEA As another anti-aging agent, mention may be made of DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives, and acid. jasmonic
- ferulic acid will be used in particular; serine; phloretine, pomegranate extract, biotin, chelants, such as
- BHT BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM, a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun ®; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®. 6. Skin-relaxing or dermodecontracting agents
- Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an Iris pallida extract, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as WiId yam. and the carbonyl amines described in EP1484052.
- sapogenins examples include those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular WiId yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment one or more sapogenins (rhizome of wild yam, agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lilyaceous extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilagein and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from Actives Organics; or ginger.
- sapogenins rhizome of wild yam, agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lilyaceous extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilagein and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root
- Actigen Y from Actives Organics
- DMAE dimethyl MEA
- extracts of sea fennel, adjoin rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline® expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.
- Preferred dermorelaxing agents include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.
- anti-glycation agent a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen.
- anti-glycation agents mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by the company COSMETOCHEM, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name "ALISTI N®”), an extract of Helianthus ann
- Preferred anti-glycation agents include blueberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus) and black tea extract.
- active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation there may be mentioned those which act:
- collagen such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; and arginine.
- synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide
- MMP metalloproteinases
- retinoids and derivatives extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol® from Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift®; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (sold for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed by Cogni
- medicago sativa such as Vitanol® from Silab
- elastin and fibrillin molecules belonging to the elastin family (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.
- retinol and derivatives in particular retinol palmitate
- the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin® and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®
- a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.
- elastin such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trademark Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as ⁇ 2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino ⁇ -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin®, or an extract of Phyllanthus
- glycosaminoglycans such as the product of fermentation of milk with lactobacillus vulgaris, marketed by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN ML Ller under the trade name HSP3®; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma; Mamaku essence from Lucas Meyer, a watercress extract (Odraline® from Silab).
- fibronectin such as the Salina zooplankton extract sold by Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; the yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MULLER under the trademark Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the tradename Matrixil®.
- active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules such as fillagrine and keratins
- an active agent stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents inhibiting the degradation of elastin and agents stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin. agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.
- an active agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures.
- synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; arginine; .
- iamin the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA
- peptides extracted from plants such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®
- an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin®, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica®
- the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®.
- an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma
- an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma
- the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®
- the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC.
- the agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.
- an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.
- Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm®; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow®, papaya extract, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincience Xyléine®, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract as well as Ichimaru Pharcos' amacha liquid E®, retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, nut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin® marketed by Sederma.
- adenosine phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®,
- agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine®; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that marketed by Seporga under the trademark Phytocohesine®; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.
- minerals such as calcium
- sea fennel a peptide extract of lupine
- sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate such as that marketed by Seporga under the trademark Phyto
- estrogens such as estradiol and homologues
- cytokines As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned also estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.
- active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm® from CLR; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by Silab under the
- compositions of the invention agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope, which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in the activity of transglutaminases.
- agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in the activity of transglutaminases.
- the agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species marketed especially by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect® denomination, or finally by the company Hansen under the name Grape marc extract; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol® BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof.
- OPCs procyanidolic oligomers
- plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species especially by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grape
- BPC Benzodiazepine Peripheral Antagonists
- 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide may be mentioned; the compounds described in WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO00 / 44384.
- Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof.
- the active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as
- Sederma Phosphovital® the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and their mixtures; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as that marketed by the company Mibelle AG
- Tensing agents The term “tensioning agent” that can be used according to the invention means compounds that can have a tensor effect, that is to say, that can tend the skin.
- tensioning agent means any compounds that are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration. to which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described below.
- the maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance is determined within ⁇ 10% and preferably within ⁇ 5%.
- homogeneous appearance medium means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye.
- the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with stirring at the deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).
- the tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.
- a homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above.
- the tensioning agent may be chosen from: vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; polysaccharides of natural origin; mixed silicates; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.
- polysaccharides of natural origin in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch obtained especially from rice, maize, potato, cassava, peas, wheat, d oats, etc., or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) the latexes constituted by the shellac resin, the gum of sandaraque, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic derivatives, and mixtures thereof,
- the colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and chosen for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, oxide cerium, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
- silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by the company Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.
- synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a grafted polydimethyl siloxane propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio (polymethacrylate) methyl) and propylthio (polyacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (poly methacrylic acid).
- synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as a grafted polydimethyl siloxane propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio (polymethacrylate) methyl) and propylthio (polyacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (iso
- Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO 21,
- the tensioning agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired biological effect according to the invention.
- the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of active ingredient. , relative to the total weight of the composition.
- active substance is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles. It is also possible to use, especially to complement and / or potentiate the effect of tensors, use agents increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents increasing the expression of integrins.
- rye seed extract such as the product marketed by SILAB under the name Coheliss®.
- lipostructive agents means agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to prevent or slow down the melting of the fats contained in the skin support tissues, otherwise known as melting of the lipo-structure of the skin '.
- lipo-structure of the skin is meant the network of lipid cells which forms the volumes on which the skin of the face rests and molds.
- liporestructuring agents examples include a black tea extract, such as the fermented black tea extract marketed by Sederma under the name Kombuchka®, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as that sold by Sllab under the name Pulpactyl®. 17. Slimming agents
- the active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation can be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye, in particular to reduce dark circles. It may be chosen, for example, from a maritime pine bark extract such as Pycnogenol® from Bio prises, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn® from Seppic), an extract from Ammi visnaga, such as Visnadine from Indena, lupine extract (Eclaline® from Silab), hydrolysed wheat protein / palmitic acid coupling with palmitic acid such as Epaline 100 from Carilene Laboratories, Bitterberry flower extract (Remodulin® from Silab), vitamin P and its derivatives such as methyl-4 esculetol mono-ethanoate sodium sold under the name Permethol® by Sephytal, extracts of ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng and sweetclover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, lysine and its derivative
- Preferred agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation include caffeine, a bigarade flower extract, a black tea extract, rutin salts, an extract of corallina officinalis algae.
- soothing agent is meant a compound to reduce the sensation of tingling, itching or tightness of the skin.
- soothing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, B5, B3, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, b-acid, glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol
- b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid
- ursolic acid and its salts extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name "Seppicalm VG®" by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rosé water, mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Calmiskin® from Silab, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Me
- sibo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.
- retinoic acid benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel;
- zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate;
- copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone® from Solabia;
- Rosmarinus officinalis Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by the company MARUZEN; - Meadowwort extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine® by the company Silab;
- algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine® by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop® by the company Solabia;
- linseed extract such as that sold under the name Linumine® by the company Lucas Meyer;
- Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos;
- extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc such as that sold under the name Seborilys® by the company green tech
- extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed
- extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed
- extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear® by the company Rahn;
- clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen
- argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl® by Serobiological Laboratories
- lactic protein filtrates such as that sold under the name Normaseb® by the company Sederma
- algae laminaria extracts such as that sold under the name Laminarghane® by the company Biotechmarine
- oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; cane sugar extracts such as the product sold under the name Policosanol® by Sabinsa;
- sulphonated shale oil such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale® by the company Ichthyol;
- sebacic acid in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft® by Sederma;
- glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical;
- Extracts of Sophora angustifolia such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland;
- glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic;
- trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECL by the company Sasol;
- 10-hydroxydecanoic acid and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,1-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by the company Vincience; and - their mixtures.
- anti-seborrheic active agents mention may be made of:
- vitamin B6 or pyridoxine
- zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate;
- clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen;
- lactic protein filtrates such as that sold under the name Normaseb® by the company Sederma
- - extracts of ulmaria spiraea ulmaria
- Cytobiol® Ulmaire by the company Libiol
- sebacic acid in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft® by Sederma;
- glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic;
- trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECL by the company Sasol;
- 10-hydroxydecanoic acid and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,1-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by the company Vincience;
- the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from:
- zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate;
- clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen;
- glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECL by the company Sasol;
- the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is for example present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- astringent agents agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.
- extracts of mushroom pulp such as "Laricyl LS8865®” from Cognis
- extracts of Terminalia catappa and sambucus nigra such as Phytofirm LS9120® from Cognis.
- gall-nut extracts such as Tanlex VE® from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxychloride, extracts of centella (ex Plantactiv centella from Cognis), dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as Varisoft 432 CG® from Degussa, extracts of horse chestnut, extracts of mauve, extracts of Hammamelis, extracts of sweet almonds, marshmallow roots and flax seeds such as Almondermin LS 3380® from Cognis, extracts of burdock, nettle extracts, extracts of birch, extracts of horsetail, extracts of chamomile such as those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special® by Symrise, extracts of scutellaria, extracts of Ulmaire (for example Cytobiol Ulmaire Libiol), a a blend of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary, yucca such as Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348®, extracts of acacia
- Preferred astringent agents according to the invention will be scutellaria extracts, ulmary extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts, burdock extracts and mixtures thereof.
- healing agents examples include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeasts extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Laboratoires Sériobiiques), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes® TRF® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience's GP4G®, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Souci Ami® Liposolible, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Herbasol® Lemon from Cosmetochem
- antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate and folic acid. ; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; and their mixtures.
- azelaic acid As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, there will be mentioned azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; and their mixtures.
- the composition may further comprise at least one anti-acne active agent.
- anti-acne active any active having effects on the specific flora of oily skin such as for example Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes).
- antibactericidal active agents mention may in particular be made of: the active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity mentioned in application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference,
- citronellic acid perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid),
- glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50® by the company Shulke & Mayr,
- glyceryl caprylate / caprate for example sold under the name Capmul MCM® by the company ABITEC;
- sodium calcium phosphosilicate sold in particular under the names Bioactive glasspowder® and Actysse Premier BG® by the company Schott Glass;
- silver-based particles for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS® by the company Nippon Sheet Glass;
- hop cone extract Human Lupulus obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract® by Flavex Naturextrakte,
- argan extract such as Argapure LS9710® from COGNIS
- - bearberry leaf extracts such as the one sold under the name "Melfade-J" by Pentapharm; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, such as Acnacidol P® from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl p-tolylsulfone such as Friendly Flowable® from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare® from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA® from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide,
- compositions of the invention Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D from Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkool maleate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283 and mixtures thereof.
- anti-acne active agents may be added to the aforementioned anti-acne active agents.
- phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate (7 EO), hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, branched C12-C13 di-alcohol tartrate described in EP 1,129,694 and their mixtures.
- vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil,
- P acnates or as active agents acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their proliferation, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol® from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L® from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives and mixtures thereof.
- the active ingredient against acne may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents will be present in one of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%. more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the contents of cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents may range from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.
- Peelings are a well known means for improving the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin and / or scalp.
- the skin and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce actinic lentigo, marks of acne or chickenpox, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth out irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.
- Vitro-skin TM is a substrate that mimics the properties of the surface of human skin. It contains proteins and lipids and has typography, pH, critical surface tension, ionic strength similar to human skin. The dye product to be tested is spread, at a rate of 2 mg.cm-2, using a fingerstall on the Vitro-skin TM samples.
- Vitro-skin TM samples are then incubated in an airtight container containing an 80/20 glycerol / water solution and finally placed in an oven at 32 ° C.
- ( ⁇ E) 2 [( ⁇ L) 2 + ( ⁇ a) 2 + ( ⁇ b) 2 ].
- ⁇ E reflects the darkening, the overall intensity of the color: the higher the ⁇ E, the darker the color.
- phase A The emulsion is cold.
- Phase B is weighed and phase B is emulsified in phase A by increasing stirring regularly.
- Stirring is maintained 5 minutes before to incorporate phase C (DHA and DHAA solubilized in water).
- Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes and then phase D is incorporated.
- MIXTURE 1 ARACHYDYL polyglucoside AND ALCOHOL arachidic, behenic 2.25 (15/85)
- Phases A and B are weighed and melted separately at 80 ° C. in a water bath.
- Phase B is stirred with Moritz and phase A is then emulsified in phase B with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes and then the gel of phase C is incorporated. Stirring is maintained until the temperature of the emulsion returns to room temperature.
- Phase D (DHA and DHAA solubilized in water) is weighed and this phase is then incorporated with stirring into the emulsion. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes and then phase E is incorporated.
- EXAMPLE F Face and body milk
- Phase A and B are weighed and melted separately at 75 ° C. in a water bath.
- Phase B is stirred with Moritz and then emulsifies phase A in phase B with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes then It incorporates phase C. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes and then the phase D gel is incorporated. Stirring is maintained until the temperature of the emulsion has returned to room temperature.
- Phase E (DHA and DHAA solubilized in water) is weighed and this phase is then incorporated with stirring into the emulsion. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes and then phase F is incorporated.
- Phase A is heated to 80 ° C. and then phase B is added with Raynerie stirring. The temperature is allowed to drop to 60 ° C. and then phase C (gelling agents) is incorporated. The gel is allowed to swell and phase D (caramel in water) is added at 40 ° C. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes and then phase E (DHA and DHAA solubilized in water) is incorporated. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes and then phase F is incorporated.
- Phase A and B are weighed and melted separately at 75 ° C. in a water bath.
- Phase B is stirred with Moritz and phase A is emulsified in phase B with strong agitation. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes and then phase C is incorporated. Stirring is maintained until the temperature of the emulsion returns to room temperature.
- Phase D (DHA and DHAA solubilized in water) is weighed and this phase is then incorporated with stirring into the emulsion.
- Phase A and B are weighed and melted separately at 75 ° C. in a water bath.
- Phase B is stirred with Moritz and then emulsifies phase A in phase B with vigorous stirring. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes and phase C is then incorporated. Stirring is maintained for 5-10 minutes and then the gel of phase D is incorporated. Stirring is maintained until the temperature of the emulsion return to room temperature.
- Phase E (DHA and DHAA solubilized in water) is weighed and this phase is then incorporated with stirring into the emulsion. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes and then phase F is incorporated, followed by G.
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0756353A FR2918561B1 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2007-07-09 | Utilisation pour la coloration de la peau de l'acide dehydroascorbique ou des derives polymeres ; procedes de soin et/ou de maquillage. |
US92996507P | 2007-07-19 | 2007-07-19 | |
PCT/FR2008/051262 WO2009010682A2 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2008-07-07 | Composition de coloration artificielle de la peau comprenant un autobronzant et l'acide dehydroascorbique ou l'un de ses derives monomeres, polymeres ou isomeres |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2175831A2 true EP2175831A2 (fr) | 2010-04-21 |
Family
ID=39148745
Family Applications (3)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP08158761.0A Active EP2016932B1 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2008-06-23 | Utilisation pour la coloration de la peau de l'acide dehydroascorbique |
EP08806180.9A Active EP2175832B1 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2008-07-07 | PROCEDE DE COLORATION DE LA PEAU UTILISANT L'ACIDE DEHYDROASCORBIQUE OU ou sa forme isomère ET UNE AMINE |
EP08806177A Withdrawn EP2175831A2 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2008-07-07 | Composition de coloration artificielle de la peau comprenant un autobronzant et l'acide dehydroascorbique ou l'un de ses derives monomeres, polymeres ou isomeres |
Family Applications Before (2)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP08158761.0A Active EP2016932B1 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2008-06-23 | Utilisation pour la coloration de la peau de l'acide dehydroascorbique |
EP08806180.9A Active EP2175832B1 (fr) | 2007-07-09 | 2008-07-07 | PROCEDE DE COLORATION DE LA PEAU UTILISANT L'ACIDE DEHYDROASCORBIQUE OU ou sa forme isomère ET UNE AMINE |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
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US (4) | US9643032B2 (fr) |
EP (3) | EP2016932B1 (fr) |
ES (1) | ES2608575T3 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2918561B1 (fr) |
WO (6) | WO2009010685A2 (fr) |
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DE102004047283A1 (de) | 2004-09-27 | 2006-04-13 | Beiersdorf Ag | O/W-Emulsionen mit anorganischen UV-Lichtschutzfilterpigmenten |
DE102004047286B4 (de) | 2004-09-27 | 2006-11-23 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische Lichtschutzzubereitung auf Basis von Mikropigmenten |
DE102004047281A1 (de) | 2004-09-27 | 2006-04-20 | Beiersdorf Ag | Lichtschutzkonzentrat mit organischen Mikropigmenten |
FR2877220B1 (fr) | 2004-11-04 | 2008-10-10 | Oreal | Utilisation de composes d'uree pour lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutane |
US20070292373A1 (en) * | 2006-06-19 | 2007-12-20 | Julio Gans Russ | Self Tanning or Sunscreen Cosmetic Compositions |
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2007
- 2007-07-09 FR FR0756353A patent/FR2918561B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2008
- 2008-06-23 EP EP08158761.0A patent/EP2016932B1/fr active Active
- 2008-07-07 EP EP08806180.9A patent/EP2175832B1/fr active Active
- 2008-07-07 WO PCT/FR2008/051267 patent/WO2009010685A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2008-07-07 EP EP08806177A patent/EP2175831A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2008-07-07 WO PCT/FR2008/051264 patent/WO2009010683A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2008-07-07 WO PCT/FR2008/051266 patent/WO2009010684A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2008-07-07 WO PCT/FR2008/051268 patent/WO2009010686A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2008-07-07 ES ES08806180.9T patent/ES2608575T3/es active Active
- 2008-07-07 WO PCT/FR2008/051270 patent/WO2009010688A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2008-07-07 WO PCT/FR2008/051262 patent/WO2009010682A2/fr active Application Filing
- 2008-07-09 US US12/216,693 patent/US9643032B2/en active Active
- 2008-07-09 US US12/169,950 patent/US20090035241A1/en not_active Abandoned
-
2010
- 2010-01-11 US US12/685,073 patent/US10173080B2/en active Active
- 2010-01-11 US US12/685,057 patent/US20100215597A1/en not_active Abandoned
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See references of WO2009010682A2 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US9643032B2 (en) | 2017-05-09 |
EP2016932A3 (fr) | 2009-04-08 |
WO2009010686A3 (fr) | 2009-04-16 |
WO2009010685A3 (fr) | 2009-04-23 |
WO2009010685A2 (fr) | 2009-01-22 |
FR2918561A1 (fr) | 2009-01-16 |
US20090035241A1 (en) | 2009-02-05 |
WO2009010684A2 (fr) | 2009-01-22 |
WO2009010683A2 (fr) | 2009-01-22 |
ES2608575T3 (es) | 2017-04-12 |
WO2009010686A2 (fr) | 2009-01-22 |
US20100221203A1 (en) | 2010-09-02 |
EP2016932B1 (fr) | 2014-04-30 |
WO2009010688A2 (fr) | 2009-01-22 |
EP2016932A2 (fr) | 2009-01-21 |
WO2009010682A2 (fr) | 2009-01-22 |
WO2009010682A3 (fr) | 2009-04-16 |
WO2009010684A3 (fr) | 2009-04-16 |
EP2175832A2 (fr) | 2010-04-21 |
US20100215597A1 (en) | 2010-08-26 |
WO2009010688A3 (fr) | 2009-04-23 |
US20090016974A1 (en) | 2009-01-15 |
EP2175832B1 (fr) | 2016-10-05 |
WO2009010683A3 (fr) | 2009-04-23 |
FR2918561B1 (fr) | 2009-10-09 |
US10173080B2 (en) | 2019-01-08 |
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