EP2147610B1 - Procédé de fabrication d'une pierre de bijou - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication d'une pierre de bijou Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2147610B1
EP2147610B1 EP09009405.3A EP09009405A EP2147610B1 EP 2147610 B1 EP2147610 B1 EP 2147610B1 EP 09009405 A EP09009405 A EP 09009405A EP 2147610 B1 EP2147610 B1 EP 2147610B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gemstones
carrier
gems
deep drawing
setting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP09009405.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2147610A2 (fr
EP2147610A3 (fr
Inventor
Martin Hirschmann
Harald Leitner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
D Swarovski KG
Original Assignee
D Swarovski KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by D Swarovski KG filed Critical D Swarovski KG
Publication of EP2147610A2 publication Critical patent/EP2147610A2/fr
Publication of EP2147610A3 publication Critical patent/EP2147610A3/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2147610B1 publication Critical patent/EP2147610B1/fr
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Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/23Gem and jewel setting

Definitions

  • the prior art already includes methods for producing gemstone arrangements which are held by a thermoplastic film, wherein a hot melt adhesive layer has been applied to the film or to the setting surfaces of the gemstones with which they are arranged in the film.
  • a gemstone arrangement and the method used for their preparation is for example in the AT 338 020 shown, wherein the thermoplastic film is placed on the gems and then deep-drawn and form in the film receiving openings in which the gems are held by the film and the adhesive.
  • Disadvantages of this method are on the one hand its complexity, since a large number of aids and process steps is necessary and on the other hand that the handling of the film and the hot melt adhesive is unwieldy.
  • it has been found in practice that the gemstones are held particularly well by the film in such gemstone arrangements.
  • a method for embedding gemstones by means of an injection molding in plastic carrier describes the FR 734 608 , Also, this process is cumbersome and requires many tools, especially the necessary tools for injection molding.
  • EP1454553 discloses a gemstone formation having a plurality of gemstones, wherein the gemstones are partially embedded in a silicone layer.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a method for producing a gemstone stone arrangement, which avoids the disadvantages mentioned above and facilitates the manufacturing process.
  • the carrier is formed from a liquid, curable material, wherein the carrier material is applied in liquid form to the side of the setting surface and cures there. After hardening of the carrier, the gems are already directly connected to this and an additional adhesive layer or the like is not necessary. In addition, such a compound is very stable.
  • the carrier itself is thin and bendable and flexible even after curing. It may be particularly advantageous that the liquid carrier material is applied from above along the force of gravity on the setting surfaces of the gemstones.
  • the gemstones for the method according to the invention have generally setting surfaces, with which they are arranged in the carrier, and viewing surfaces, which lie on the viewer facing side of the carrier.
  • the visible surfaces and additionally or alternatively the setting surfaces can be specially designed for their purpose.
  • the setting surfaces may have a special geometric shape, for example, a rotating cone, so that the carrier can hold the gems particularly well.
  • the visible surfaces in turn can be ground, for example faceted, to increase the visual appeal of the gem. It may also be provided special coatings for visible surfaces and setting surfaces.
  • the gemstones in regular rows and columns.
  • the gems can be arranged, for example with a screening device so that they are arranged in regular rows and columns, while the setting surfaces and the visible surfaces are aligned such that the visible surfaces and the setting surfaces of the gems are each on one side of an imaginary surface.
  • the imaginary surface is as smooth as possible, that is, for example, portions of a plane or a spherical surface and is aligned at least in the application zone of the carrier material such that the carrier material is applied from above along the force of gravity on the setting surfaces of the gems ,
  • gemstones may be attached to an article, such as a garment or a fashion accessory, in a band shape.
  • the gems protrude with their visible surfaces at least partially out of the bendable carrier. This ensures that the gemstone arrangement receives a particularly advantageous decorative appearance, especially when the visible surfaces of the gemstones are cut faceted.
  • the carrier material is applied in a liquid state in a thin layer on the setting surfaces of the gemstones and between them.
  • the liquid carrier material can be applied by spraying, spraying, doctoring, brushing and additionally or alternatively rolling. All of these processes, which are known per se in the prior art, are distinguished by their ease of use and the low technical outlay required for this purpose. In particular, no specially required molds made of metal or ceramic materials, cavities or the like are necessary for this purpose.
  • the gems are screened in a desired pattern or grid-shaped, wherein the sieve the size of Gemstones is adapted and then transferred into a thermoforming tool, so that the gems lie with their setting surfaces in the thermoforming tool. If the setting surfaces have been provided with a reflective layer or with an interference-generating layer or with an absorbing layer, therefore, the gems lie with the coated side down in the deep-drawing tool.
  • thermoforming sheet is applied to the visible surfaces of the dies arranged in the thermoforming tool. By heating, this thermoforming sheet is brought into a thermoplastic state, whereby the film assumes the complete contour of protruding from the thermoforming tool visible surfaces of the gemstones.
  • thermoforming sheet is removed together with the gemstones from the thermoforming tool.
  • the withdrawn thermoforming sheet is reversed with the embedded gemstones, so that the setting surfaces of the gems point upwards.
  • the carrier material can be applied in liquid form to the setting surfaces and between them from above, ie along the force of gravity.
  • the gemstones are thereby covered with liquid carrier material to the depth at which the thermoforming sheet is. If the gemstones are thus sheathed to the rondist of the film, the gems are embedded with their setting surfaces to the Rondiste in the carrier.
  • an adhesive film layer hotmelt adhesive layer, filler layer, composite layer, effect layer and additionally or alternatively a cover layer.
  • Such layers are particularly advantageous if further optical effects are desired or they serve as application device of the gemstone arrangement, for example, on a garment.
  • protective layers for the transport of the gemstone arrangement may be advantageous.
  • a gemstone assembly can be made with a plurality of gemstones which are at least partially disposed in and supported by a bendable support in receiving apertures, the bendable backing being of a reactive resin, preferably polyurethane resin and / or acrylate resin and / or or epoxy resin.
  • Such a reactive resin which becomes liquid at the time of heat input and then cures, has the properties that it is flexible and flexible after curing, but the gemstones can still hold well because its tensile strength is sufficiently high.
  • It may be polyurethane resin and additionally or alternatively acrylate resin and epoxy resin.
  • a possible combination is, for example, a copolymer of acrylate resin and urethane resin. If such a resin is applied to the gemstones in liquid form or the gemstones are immersed in such a liquid resin and then hardens this resin, so it has the desired due to its chemical base mechanical properties in terms of tensile strength and flexibility.
  • It may also be particularly advantageous to produce the bendable support from exactly one layer consisting of a reactive resin. This has the advantage that the production of the carrier is particularly economical and the carrier can be designed to be particularly flexible.
  • the bendable support Upon stretching of the bendable support along a straight line, the bendable support is irreversibly deformed or torn before the bendable support loses the ability to retain the gems due to the deformations of the receiving openings caused by the expansion.
  • the receiving opening initially expands along the direction of the tensile force in the context of the linear elasticity region, as a result of which the adhesion forces of the film to the gemstones in this direction are reduced.
  • a contraction of the receiving openings takes place in a direction perpendicular to the tensile force, which causes a resultant force on the gemstones out of the carrier.
  • the stone is thereby, in addition to the above-mentioned lower adhesion, from the receiving openings forced out. It was found here that a good connection between gemstones and support is given if such deformations remain low until the irreversible deformation limit or the breaking point.
  • One of the main fields of application of such gemstone arrangements is to decorate garments, fashion accessories or the like by the attachment of gemstones.
  • a gemstone arrangement such an ornament is particularly easy and easy. Since the objects to which such a gemstone stone arrangement is applied, may have arbitrarily shaped surfaces, the gemstone stone arrangement must itself be bendable for adaptation to this surface.
  • the gems should remain as permanently as possible in the carrier, which is achieved by the deformations of the receiving opening at tensile stresses, as they generally arise when bending the gemstone order at least locally, remain low, so that the adhesion forces are approximately as in the case of an unloaded such gemstone arrangement or at least big enough to hold the gemstones in the carrier.
  • the gemstones may be at least partially embedded in the carrier. This can be achieved by arranging the gemstones in liquid carrier material or by applying carrier material in a liquid state to the gemstones. Subsequently, the carrier material then hardens. Cast in gemstones have a very good connection to the substrate, which can remain free through the at least partially pouring and parts of the gems to give the gemstone arrangement the desired visual effect.
  • the carrier material may be so thin that the ends of the setting surfaces with which the gemstones are arranged in the carrier project beyond the remaining carrier surface on the side of the carrier facing away from the visible surfaces of the semi-precious stones.
  • the support surface on the side facing away from the visible surfaces of the gems side of the carrier may be substantially planar and additionally or alternatively protrude the ends of the setting surfaces of the gems over the substrate or even the ends of the setting surfaces are encased by the substrate, so that the carrier material itself forms a relief-like surface on the side facing away from the visible surfaces of the wearer.
  • the arrangement of the gems is grid-shaped.
  • the gemstones can also be arranged in any pattern or randomly on the carrier.
  • the gemstones are preferred glass stones. Particularly shapely gemstone arrangements are achieved when the glass stones themselves are ground, for example in the form of a faceted surface. It may be sufficient if the visible surfaces of the glass blocks are ground. Of course, chatons or gems can also be used for a gemstone arrangement.
  • the thickness of the carrier at least between the setting surfaces of the gemstones, a thickness between 0.2 and 1.5 mm, preferably between 0.5 and 1 mm.
  • the thickness of the carrier is lower on the ends of the setting surfaces or no carrier material is located on the ends of the setting surfaces.
  • the gemstones used can have a reflection layer on their setting surfaces. But it can also be provided that the gemstones have non-mirrored setting surfaces. In particular with glass blocks, optically attractive combination effects between the color of the carrier material and the refractive properties or the color of the gemstones can then be achieved.
  • the carrier itself is at least partially made of transparent material. This is particularly beneficial when the gemstone assembly is to be placed on a garment or a fashion accessory, whereby the color of the garment or the fashion accessory is not covered by the material of the wearer.
  • the carrier is colored, whereby, in particular in the case of non-mirrored back side of the gem stones, the color of the carrier material shines through the gems.
  • At least parts of the gems are coated with a bonding agent.
  • a bonding agent for example based on a polyurethane or an epoxide, can further improve the connection between the gemstones and the support.
  • the gemstones may be substantially embedded in the carrier as far as the rondist. As a result, the similiar layer is better protected.
  • Layers are provided, for example, by vapor deposition of the gems with such a layer.
  • one or more further layers are arranged on the side of the carrier facing away from the visible surfaces.
  • This can include, for example, an effect layer, the gemstone arrangement in plan view a preferred visual appearance can give.
  • Metal foils such as gold foils, aluminum foils or vapor-deposited polyester foils with a metallic effect or colored plastic foils are particularly suitable for such an effect layer.
  • a filling layer preferably consisting of easily compressible material, may be applied.
  • Such a self-adhesive film has the advantage that with this the gemstone arrangement can be particularly easily attached to a desired object, wherein the gemstone arrangement adheres to the article by the self-adhesive film.
  • a covering layer for example of paper or plastic, preferably silicone-coated paper, protects the self-adhesive film.
  • a Trosiebvorraum 4 which serves for spreading the gems 8 in the desired arrangement or motif shape.
  • the gems 8 are arranged in rows and columns.
  • the gems 8 are arranged in the Aufsiebplatte 3 by a reciprocating Aufsiebvorraum 4 such that the optionally coated setting surfaces 2 of the gems 8 vertically downward in the Aufsiebplatte 3, the 8 has the setting surfaces of the gemstones 8 corresponding receiving openings addressed are, while the visible surfaces 1 of the gems 8 remain outside the Aufsiebplatte 3 and are directed upwards.
  • the upper plate level of the Mausiebplatte 3 coincides with the Rondiste 7 of the gems 8, which separates the visible surfaces 1 and 2 set the gemstones 8 in this case.
  • thermoforming sheet 6 is arranged below or in the deep-drawing tool 5 further devices are arranged, which suck with a vacuum pump and arranged for it in the deep-drawing tool 5 suction air from the space between the Aufsiebplatte 3 and the thermoforming sheet 6 and thereby generate a negative pressure.
  • a vacuum pump which can heat the thermoforming sheet 6. This may be, for example, a heat radiator arranged above the deep-drawing film 6. It can also be provided that the film together with thermoforming tool 5 is arranged in an oven.
  • thermoforming sheet 6 completely assumes the contour of the protruding from the thermoforming mold 5 visible surfaces 1 of the gems 8 after the thermoforming sheet 6 has been heated and thereby reaches a certain temperature dependent on the film material has reached a thermoplastic state and at the same time by means of the thermoforming tool 5 extracted air and the resulting negative pressure was deep drawn. If the temperature is lowered again, the thermoforming sheet 6 solidifies and thereby holds the gemstones 8 with their visible surfaces 1.
  • Fig. 4 shows how the gems are deducted 8 with the thermoforming sheet 6 from the thermoforming tool 5.
  • the recesses 9 provided for the gemstones 8 in the deep-drawing tool 5 are also visible. Due to the solidification of thermoforming sheet 6 adhere the visible surfaces 1 of the gems 8 in thermoforming film. 6
  • thermoforming sheet 6 After the thermoforming sheet 6 has been turned with gemstones 8 adhering therein and therefore the visible surfaces 1 of the gems 8 pointing downwards, the liquid carrier material 11 is applied in a thin layer on the setting surfaces 2 and between these and rolled up by means of a roller device 10, as shown schematically in Fig. 5 is shown.
  • the carrier material can cure, so that the gems 8 are held permanently in the bendable carrier 12. Therefore, as in Fig. 6 shown - the thermoforming sheet 6 are removed again.
  • the gems 8 are embedded in the bendable support 12 of the gemstone stone arrangement 13 according to the invention such that only their visible surfaces 1 protrude.
  • Fig. 7 a cross section through a gemstone arrangement 13 is shown.
  • the thin, bendable carrier 12 has a thickness such that the tips of the setting surfaces 2 of the gems 8 protrude to the lower end of the carrier 12.
  • the gems 8 are embedded up to their Rondiste 7 in the carrier 12, which separates the visible surfaces 1 of the setting surfaces 2 of the gems 8.
  • the invention may have only one type of gems in terms of shape and / or material, as well as a plurality of different types of gems, so be homogeneous or heterogeneous. Also, not all gemstones need to be equally embedded in the carrier, although this is preferred.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (3)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'un agencement de pierres de bijouterie avec une pluralité de pierres de bijouterie (8) qui sont maintenues par un support (12) pliable dans des ouvertures de réception, et dans lequel les pierres de bijouterie (8) présentent chacune une surface de pose (2) et une surface visible (1) et sont agencées dans l'agencement souhaité ou réparties aléatoirement de sorte que les surfaces visibles (1) se trouvent sur un côté d'une surface imaginaire et les surfaces de pose (2) sur l'autre côté de la surface imaginaire, dans lequel un matériau porteur (11) est appliqué sous la forme liquide sur les surfaces de pose (2) et entre celles-ci et forme après durcissement le support (12) pliable, caractérisé en ce que les pierres de bijouterie (8) sont classées et ensuite transférées à un outil d'emboutissage (5), dans lequel les pierres de bijouterie (8) se trouvent avec leurs surfaces de pose (2) dans l'outil d'emboutissage (5), dans lequel les étapes suivantes sont réalisées :
    a. L'application d'une feuille d'emboutissage (6) sur les surfaces visibles (1) des pierres de bijouterie (8).
    b. L'emboutissage de la feuille d'emboutissage (6) chauffée de préférence par dépression et retrait consécutif de la feuille d'emboutissage (6) et des pierres de bijouterie (8), de l'outil d'emboutissage (5).
    c. Le retrait de la feuille d'emboutissage (6), du support (12) de préférence après durcissement du matériau porteur (11).
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le matériau porteur (11) est appliqué de telle manière que les surfaces visibles (1) dépassent au moins en partie du support (12) pliable durci.
  3. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 2, caractérisé en ce que le matériau porteur (11) est appliqué sous la forme liquide sur les surfaces de pose (2) des pierres de bijouterie (8) et entre celles-ci par pulvérisation, vaporisation, application à la racle, au pinceau et/ou au rouleau.
EP09009405.3A 2008-07-23 2009-07-20 Procédé de fabrication d'une pierre de bijou Active EP2147610B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT0114008A AT507129B1 (de) 2008-07-23 2008-07-23 Verfahren zur herstellung einer schmucksteinanordnung

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2147610A2 EP2147610A2 (fr) 2010-01-27
EP2147610A3 EP2147610A3 (fr) 2014-09-10
EP2147610B1 true EP2147610B1 (fr) 2017-03-15

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP09009405.3A Active EP2147610B1 (fr) 2008-07-23 2009-07-20 Procédé de fabrication d'une pierre de bijou

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20100017944A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2147610B1 (fr)
AT (1) AT507129B1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2627652T3 (fr)

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ITMI20052438A1 (it) * 2005-12-21 2007-06-22 Gamma Croma Spa Metodo per realizzare un articolo composito comprendente un prodotto cosmetico ed un elemento decorativo
AT507883B1 (de) * 2009-05-19 2010-09-15 Swarovski & Co Spritzgegossener dekorationsartikel
AT13397U1 (de) * 2012-07-02 2013-12-15 Swarovski D Kg Schmuckstein mit gewölbtem Rand
EP2837506B1 (fr) * 2013-08-12 2019-06-12 Ferdiam S.r.l. Procédé pour la réalisation de décorations
EP3056331A1 (fr) * 2015-02-16 2016-08-17 Swarovski Aktiengesellschaft Corps composite présente un corps décoratif
DE102015204613B4 (de) * 2015-03-13 2018-03-15 Levitation AG Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Uhrglases mit mindestens einem Schmuckstein
FR3036344B1 (fr) * 2015-05-21 2017-06-02 Peugeot Citroen Automobiles Sa Piece de decoration fixee dans un habitacle de vehicule
ITUB20153631A1 (it) * 2015-09-15 2017-03-15 Safilo Spa Metodo per la decorazione di componenti di montature per occhiali ed occhiali realizzati con detto metodo
EP3479720B1 (fr) * 2017-11-07 2020-03-25 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Procede de sertissage d'une pierre

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2627652T8 (es) 2017-08-24
AT507129A1 (de) 2010-02-15
EP2147610A2 (fr) 2010-01-27
US20100017944A1 (en) 2010-01-28
AT507129B1 (de) 2010-08-15
ES2627652T3 (es) 2017-07-31
EP2147610A3 (fr) 2014-09-10

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