EP2076235A2 - Bâtonnet cosmétique ou dermatologique à base d'une émulsion/dispersion huile dans l'eau, produisant peu de résidus - Google Patents

Bâtonnet cosmétique ou dermatologique à base d'une émulsion/dispersion huile dans l'eau, produisant peu de résidus

Info

Publication number
EP2076235A2
EP2076235A2 EP07822512A EP07822512A EP2076235A2 EP 2076235 A2 EP2076235 A2 EP 2076235A2 EP 07822512 A EP07822512 A EP 07822512A EP 07822512 A EP07822512 A EP 07822512A EP 2076235 A2 EP2076235 A2 EP 2076235A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
oil
water
acid
saturated
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP07822512A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Bernhard Banowski
Marcus Claas
Nadine Buse
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2076235A2 publication Critical patent/EP2076235A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological stick compositions, in particular deodorant sticks or antiperspirant sticks, based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion for applying cosmetic or dermatological, in particular water-soluble, active ingredients to the skin.
  • emulsified waxes impart a soft, light skin feel
  • water-soluble cosmetic active ingredients ie in particular also antiperspirant active ingredients
  • US 20020051758 discloses water-containing antiperspirant sticks without W / O emulsifier and high-melting wax, which contain a siliconized polyamide as consistency or Structurant.
  • the aqueous phase forms the internal, ie dispersed phase, so that the disclosed gels are water-in-oil emulsions.
  • US 20020072506 A1 discloses, in some embodiments, water-based antiperspirant sticks based on a water-in-oil emulsion, the acylated cellobiose as bodying agent or structurant and a high proportion of unfavorable silicone and hydrocarbon oils according to the invention, furthermore neither oil-in-water Emulsifiers still contain a high-melting wax.
  • the emulsion sticks of the cited prior art are formulated on the basis of a water-in-oil dispersion / emulsion, ie, the water-soluble active ingredients are present in the inner, dispersed phase and must first migrate through the outer, lipophilic layer after application in order to obtain their To reach the place of action on the skin.
  • the known water-in-oil emulsion sticks with regard to the availability of active ingredients similar disadvantages as anhydrous suspension sticks.
  • US 6428776 discloses water and oil-containing, wax-free antiperspirant sticks based on an oil-in-water emulsion. Such pens have inadequate cosmetic properties, leave unpleasant sticky and visible residues, and show insufficient stability for prolonged use.
  • An example with glycerin monostearate as a W / O emulsifier and octyl dodecanol as the oil component has a medium-firm consistency and a greasy feel on the skin and begins to soften at 50 0 C.
  • hydrous cosmetic sticks are disclosed, the wax components with a melting point of> 50 0 C, non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifiers, a non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more than 7, and contain a polyol.
  • Some of the sticks contain liquid oil components at 25 ° C which, unlike the sticks of the present application, can not be incorporated at the beginning of the emulsion process, but the actual stick mass as a pre-emulsified concentrate, for example as a microemulsion or PIT emulsion, during the cooling phase Stick mass at a temperature of about 55 ° C are added with stirring.
  • Such a first method is necessary in order not to jeopardize or even destroy the stability of the system, a dispersion of lipid and wax crystals.
  • Such sticks also have inadequate cosmetic properties, can leave unpleasant sticky and visible residues, and show insufficient stability for prolonged use.
  • US 20030103921 A1 discloses structured antiperspirant compositions in the form of a microemulsion which, depending on the nature and amount of the surfactants, constitutes an oil-in-water microemulsion or a water-in-oil microemulsion or a bicontinuous phase, the bicontinuous phase overall predominating ,
  • the (transparent) microemulsions are thickened by an oil-soluble or oil-dispersible "structurant.”
  • the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible "structurant” is selected from esters and amides of 12-hydroxystearic acid, esters and amides of N-acyl amino acids, esters and amides of di- and tricarboxylic acids , Sterols, sterol esters such as oryzanol, cellobiose fatty acid esters, sugar esters such as acylated maltose and non-crosslinked oil-soluble or oil-dispersible polymeric oil phase thickeners such as the commercial product Kraton
  • nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 2-15, preferably with a HLB value below 12, included.
  • Polyols are merely disclosed as optional.
  • At no point is a possible importance of coordinating the solubility parameters of W / O emulsifiers and oil components revealed to each other.
  • the structural difference between these compositions and the oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion sticks of the present invention, which are not microemulsions, is particularly evident in the high content of 19-66% by weight of the total composition.
  • unfavorable silicone and (paraffinic) hydrocarbon oils all disclosed embodiments.
  • deodorant or Antitranspi- rant creams based on an oil-in-water emulsion having a viscosity of at least 50000 mPa.s preferably at 21 0 C, in the range from 200,000 to 1,500,000 mPa.s, that is, they are present in viscous to highly viscous pasty form.
  • creams contain wax components with a melting point of> 50 0 C, non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier, including but not an ethylene glycol ester still a pentaerythrityl ester, nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers with an HLB value of more than 7 and a polyol.
  • non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier including but not an ethylene glycol ester still a pentaerythrityl ester
  • nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers with an HLB value of more than 7 and a polyol.
  • compositions disclosed in DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 were allowed to cool statically, that is to say without stirring, after heating and mixing, pen-like compositions having generally unfavorable application properties such as poor feel and / or lack of stability, for example, by phase separation or condensation, since the emulsifiers and the oils are not matched as in the present invention.
  • US 20060029624 A1 discloses deodorant or antiperspirant sticks in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion-containing C at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 0, at least one non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier system having an average HLB in the range of 10-19, at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7 , 0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C.
  • in-oil emulsifier by a maximum of -0.4 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or a maximum of +0.7 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / the water-in-oil emulsifiers deviates, at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, 5 to less than 50% by weight Water, based on the total composition and containing at least one deodorant or antiperspirant active, the pen having a penetration force value in the range of 200-600 grams force (g-force) at a penetration depth of 5.000 mm and an electrical resistance of at most 300 k ⁇ (Kilo ohms).
  • Another object was to develop a stick composition, in particular a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, with excellent cosmetic care properties.
  • Another object was to develop a pen, in particular a deodorant or antiperspirant stick, on the one hand a high stability, ie strength, on the other hand, but has a pleasant release behavior, so not too tight, but easily over the skin can be painted while giving a sufficient amount of product.
  • a further object was to develop a stick composition, in particular a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, which leaves as little sticky or visible residue as possible when applied to the skin.
  • Another object was to develop a stick composition, particularly a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, which leaves as little visible residue on the clothing as comes in contact with the treated skin.
  • Another object was to develop a stick composition, particularly a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, that is easily washed off the skin.
  • a further object was to develop a stick composition, in particular a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, with a cost-benefit ratio which is economically and technically favorable.
  • a further object was to develop a stick composition, in particular a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, which permits large-scale manufacture of stable sticks of suitable consistency.
  • the emulsifiers are coordinated so that the stick compositions according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion available.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention are not present as a microemulsion.
  • the water phase and the oil phase to a temperature of at least 70 0 C, preferably at least 80 0 C, more preferably 90 - 95 0 C, heated and hot, ie at least 70 0 C, preferably at least 80 0 C. , Particularly preferably 90-95 0 C, stirred or homogenized together to achieve the emulsion structure according to the invention.
  • a manufacturing method as disclosed, for example, in US 4,205,062 (kneading of fat and water phase at 65 ° C) is not sufficient to obtain a stick composition, in particular a homogeneous stick composition, based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion .
  • oil-in-water emulsifiers together with a portion of the water-in-oil emulsifiers, form lamellar liquid crystal phases which are built up with a portion of the water to form a hydrophilic gel phase.
  • This hydrophilic gel phase surrounds the aqueous bulk phase.
  • aqueous bulk phase are dispersed the lipophilic components surrounded by a lipophilic gel phase formed by the water-in-oil emulsifiers with a portion of the oil-in-water emulsifiers and some water.
  • Water-soluble cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as, in particular, preferred antiperspirant active ingredients, are dissolved in the outer, continuous aqueous phase, resulting in a significantly improved and more efficient release of active ingredient in comparison to the known anhydrous suspension sticks and water-in-oil emulsion sticks .
  • the O / W emulsion base of the stick compositions of the present invention provides significantly improved and more efficient drug delivery as compared to the known anhydrous suspension sticks and water-in-oil emulsion sticks.
  • This release of active ingredient can be indirectly determined very well by measuring the electrical resistance of the respective product. The measurement of the electrical resistance of such compositions is also a suitable method for quickly and easily distinguishing between an oil-in-water and a water-in-oil system.
  • An oil-in-water system has a high electrical conductivity due to the continuous water phase and consequently a low electrical resistance.
  • the exact measuring arrangement and the performance of the measurement are described below (see below).
  • the pins according to the invention accordingly have an electrical resistance of preferably not more than 400 k ⁇ , more preferably not more than 300 k ⁇ .
  • the pins disclosed in WO 98/17238 A1 have an electrical resistance of more than 3000 k ⁇ ; it is therefore a water-in-oil system.
  • normal conditions are a temperature of 20 ° C. and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar. Melting point data likewise refer to a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.
  • the solidification of the sticks according to the invention does not take place on the basis of soap gels or fatty acid salt gels, where fatty acids are understood as meaning alkane, alkene and alkyric acids having at least 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted, for example with hydroxyl groups.
  • the deodorant or antiperspirant sticks according to the invention are free from soap gels or fatty acid salt gels, in particular free from lithium, sodium, potassium, ammonium, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts of fatty acids. Soap-based sticks are incompatible with acidic antiperspirant active ingredients as used in the preferred antiperspirant sticks of the present invention.
  • the solidification of the sticks according to the invention does not take place on the basis of inorganic and / or organic polymeric hydrogel formers, such as celluloses, cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxyalkylcelluloses, polyacrylates, Veegum or Bentone.
  • the sticks according to the invention are free of gels formed by inorganic and / or organic polymeric hydrogel formers.
  • the formulation as an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion brings further advantages.
  • the composition can be easily washed off the skin.
  • the sticks according to the invention have a pleasantly cool and refreshing feel on the skin during application.
  • the pens themselves have a very smooth, very white surface and a uniform, homogeneous structure.
  • the sticks according to the invention leave only slight white residues on the skin and on textiles.
  • the pins according to the invention showed an improved application behavior and easier gliding on the skin as well as a further reduced stickiness compared with the prior art, in particular with respect to US 20060029624 A1 and US Pat. No. 60/788022 or PCT / EP2006 / 004371.
  • the oil components and the water-in-oil emulsifier or the water-in-oil emulsifier mixture must be matched with respect to their solubility parameters in order to pin compositions with application-satisfactory hardnesses form.
  • solubility parameters can not only be calculated according to the Hildebrand equation but also, for example, with the aid of the enthalpy of vaporization (according to Scatchard, J. Am. Chem. Soc., Vol. 38, page 321 (1916)). All methods of determination may result in different values of the solubility parameter, especially if the chemical material has an acid or base function.
  • solubility parameter values of the oil components and of the water-in-oil emulsifier or of the water-in-oil emulsifier mixture are carried out only for solubility parameter values which are determined in each case by the same method were.
  • solubility parameter values obtained according to the Hildebrand equation (see CD, Vaughan: J. Soc., Cosmet., Chem., Vol. 36, pp. 319-333 (Sept./Oct., 1985) used the balance according to the invention.
  • compositions of the (average) solubility parameter of the entirety of the oils differ by a maximum of - 1, 0 (cal / cm 3) 0 '5 or a maximum of + 1, 0 (cal / cm 3) 0' 5, preferably by a maximum of -0.8 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or at most + 0.8 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 , more preferably by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or maximum +0.7 (cal / cm 3) 0 '5, extraordinarily preferably by a maximum of 0.6 (cal / cm 3) 0' 5 or at most +0.4 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers.
  • the mean solubility parameter of the mixture is considered in each case, the arithmetic mean being considered according to the weight fraction of the individual components.
  • a weight fraction of the used liquid under normal conditions oils not exceeding 20 wt .-% consisting of oils, whose solubility parameter is more than - 1, 0 (cal / cm 3) 0 '5 or more than +1, 0 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 deviates from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier (mixture) s.
  • no liquid under normal conditions oils are contained, the solubility by more than + 1, 2 (cal / cm 3) 0 '5 from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water deviates from in-oil emulsifiers.
  • the wax matrix of the stick compositions according to the invention comprises at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 0 C, which is not the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7 or the non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB Value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0.
  • waxes of solid to brittle hard consistency coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not glassy, and melt above 50 0 C without decomposition. They are already slightly above the melting point low viscosity and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.
  • Preference according to the invention for example, natural vegetable waxes, z. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. B. beeswax and shellac wax.
  • it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or cured waxes.
  • montan ester waxes hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used.
  • Synthetic waxes which are also preferable in the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C 2 4 oC o-dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C 30 - 50 alkyl and alkylaryl esters of -Alkylbienenwachs and dimer fatty acids.
  • a particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated, monohydric C 12 -C 6 o-alkanol and a saturated Cs-Cs ⁇ monocarboxylic acid.
  • lactides the cyclic double esters of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto.
  • Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alkanols have proven to be suitable for the invention.
  • Proper composition proved to be particularly advantageous because they give the pen of the invention, in particular the antiperspirant stick according to the invention, excellent sensory properties and the pen a high overall stability.
  • esters are composed of saturated branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated branched or unbranched monohydric alkanols. Also, esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg., 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated branched or unbranched alkanols are used according to the invention, provided that the wax component has a melting point of> 50 0 C.
  • wax components from the group of esters of saturated branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated branched or unbranched alkanols of a chain length of 12 to 50 carbon atoms, which has a melting point> 50 0 C have.
  • the wax component C 16-36 alkyl stearates and C eighteenth 38 Alkylhydroxystea- roylstearate C 20 - 40 -Alkylerucate and Cetearylbehenat be advantageous.
  • the wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 0 C, preferably> 60 0 C, on.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains a C 2O- C 40 -alkyl stearate as wax component.
  • This ester is known under the name Kester ® K82H and Kesterwachs ® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components.
  • This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions.
  • Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion.
  • a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate.
  • This ester is known under the name Kester ® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc..
  • More preferred wax components with a melting point of> 50 0 C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C 12-30 -Fett.klaley such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin), or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate further synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2 - 6 carbon atoms as long as they have a melting point above 50 0 C, for example, preferably C 8 - C 36 acid triglyceride (Syncrowax HGL-C ®).
  • hydrogenated castor oil as a wax component available for example as a commercial product Cutina ® HR, is particularly preferred.
  • the saturated linear C I4 - C 36 carboxylic acids in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid, and mixtures of these compounds, for example.
  • Preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C 12 -C 6 o-alkanol and a saturated Cs-Cs ⁇ monocarboxylic acid, in particular lauryl laurate, lauryl myristate, lauryl palmitate, lauryl stearate, lauryl-12-hydroxystearate, Lauryleicosanat, Laurylbehenat, Lauryllignocerat, Laurylcerat, Laurylmyricat, Myristyllaurat, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, Myristylstea- rat, myristyl-12-hydroxystearate, Myristyleicosanat, Myristylbehenat, Myristyllignocerat, Myristylcerat, Myristylmyricat, cetyl laurate, cetyl myristate
  • wax component a) is selected from saturated linear C 14 -C 36 -carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, eicosanoic acid, behenic acid, Lignocerin Textre, ceric acid, myric acid, and mixtures of the aforementioned acids.
  • Particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid.
  • Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures comprising C 2 -C 4 -alkyl stearate, hydrogenated castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures comprising C 16 -C 2 o-Alkylbehenat, hydrogenated castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures comprising arachyl stearate, behenyl stearate, lignoceryl stearate, ceryl stearate, myricyl stearate, hydrogenated castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures comprising palmityl behenate, stearyl behenate, arachyl behenate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid.
  • Further preferred pins according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component / na) in total in amounts of 4 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 7 to 15 wt .-%, most preferably 10 to 12 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition is included.
  • the ester (s) of a saturated, monohydric C 12 -C 6 o-alkanol and a saturated Cs-Cs ⁇ monocarboxylic acid, the / the wax component / na) are / in amounts of 2 total - 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 - 6 wt .-%, most preferably 3 - 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Oil-in-water emulsifiers oil-in-water emulsifiers
  • the stick compositions of the present invention contain at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB greater than 7, however, the total oil-in-water emulsifier system has a weight average HLB in the range of 11-16.
  • nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB greater than 7
  • the total oil-in-water emulsifier system has a weight average HLB in the range of 11-16.
  • nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the stick compositions according to the invention.
  • the individual emulsifier components deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or mean HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion by weight of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsifier. Gators.
  • the weight-average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier system is 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13-14.
  • oil-in-water emulsifiers preference is given to oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB Value ranges 10 - 14, 14 - 16 and optionally 15 - 17 combined.
  • the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 17-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • the sticks according to the invention in particular the deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13 - 14, included.
  • Preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers b) are selected from ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -alkanols with an average of 5 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -carboxylic acids containing on average from 5 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, silicone copolyols having ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C 8 - C 30 fatty acid residues, if they
  • the ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -alkanols have the formula R 1 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 1 is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle one Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 5 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinylalkohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-12, steareth-20, steareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20, as well as Mixtures thereof.
  • the ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -carboxylic acids have the formula R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OH, where R 1 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers from 5 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroic acid, Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • adducts of 5 to 100 mol, preferably 10 to 30 mol, of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid are suitable.
  • Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 mono-oleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.
  • the Ci are particularly preferably used 2 -C 18 -alkanols or C 2 -C 18 carboxylic acids, each having from 10 to 30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances.
  • C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides preference is given to using C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides.
  • C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside radical monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products.
  • Particularly preferred C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.
  • the glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
  • Ethoxylated sterols in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention.
  • the degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7.
  • Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol.
  • partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and having 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C 8 -C 30 fatty acid radicals are preferably esterified, if they have an HLB value of more than 7.
  • Diglycerinmonocaprylat particularly preferred Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmono- are caprylate, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmono- caprate, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentag lycerin- monolaurate, rinmonocaprat Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglyce-, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, glycerol monostearate,
  • Particularly preferred pens according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier b) in a total amount of 0.5-10% by weight, preferably 0.6-4% by weight .-%, more preferably 0.7 to 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention furthermore contain at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier Bodying agent and / or water binder.
  • the water-in-oil emulsifier (s) primarily contribute to the build-up of the lipophilic gel phase surrounding the dispersed lipid / wax / oil phase as well as, albeit to a lesser extent, the hydrophilic gel phase which stabilizes the aqueous phase.
  • emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are suitable nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers. Some of these emulsifiers are listed, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Edition, 1979, Volume 8, page 913. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated.
  • Preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers are:
  • Such esters or partial esters are, for.
  • C 12 -C 30 fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue.
  • Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers which are particularly preferred according to the invention and have an HLB value of greater than 1.0 and less than 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof.
  • Sterols ie steroids, which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO);
  • Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule which have an HLB value of greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0 exhibit,
  • Partial ester of polyglycerols having n 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C 8 - C 30 fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of 7 or less, and mixtures of aforementioned substances.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers, in particular mixtures of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers of the same type (for example mixtures of glyceryl esters only or mixtures of only Pentaerythritylestern).
  • a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ®, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate, or a commercial product such as Cutina ® PES is understood to be a technical mixture.
  • Highly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention are selected from the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol and the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms hydroxylated, as well as mixtures thereof, which are available, for example, as the commercial products Cutina PES (INCI: pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina AGS (INCI: glycol distearate) or Cutina EGMS (INCI: glycol stearate).
  • preferred C 12 -C 30 fatty acid residues are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachin acid and behenic acid residues; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue.
  • Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers which are particularly preferred according to the invention and have an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythritol tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof.
  • water-in-oil emulsifiers are selected from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, particularly in the form of the commercial products Cutina GMS ® and Cutina ® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl Glycerylmonocaprinat, glyceryl monocaprylate, Glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, Glycerylmonohydroxystearat, glyceryl monooleate, monostearate Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan myristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbit
  • the water-in-oil emulsifier primarily contribute to the build-up of the lipophilic gel phase surrounding the dispersed lipid / wax / oil phase as well as, albeit to a lesser extent, the hydrophilic gel phase which stabilizes the aqueous phase. According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers.
  • Particularly preferred pens according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-in-oil emulsifier c) is present in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-8 , 0 wt .-%, and particularly preferably 1 - 4 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included. Furthermore, amounts of from 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, according to the invention may also be extremely preferred.
  • HLB values can also be calculated according to Griffin, as described, for example, in the R ⁇ MPP Chemie Lexikon, in particular in the online version of November 2003, and the manuals cited there under the heading "HLB system" by Fiedler, Kirk-Othmer and If there is different information on the HLB value of a substance in the literature, the HLB value for the teaching according to the invention which comes closest to the value calculated according to Griffin should be used If no clear HLB value can be determined, the HLB value given by the manufacturer of the emulsifier must be used for the teaching according to the invention. If this too is not possible, the HLB value must be determined experimentally.
  • HLB value Chemical name (from Janistyn, see R ⁇ MPP Chemie Lexikon, keyword "HLB system")
  • Glycerol dioleate 1 sorbitan tristearate, 4 propylene glycol lactostearate, 7 glycerol monooleate
  • Pentaerythrityl sesquioleate 2 ethylene glycol monodistearate, not self-emulsifying
  • Glycol stearate 3 glycerol monolaurate, 4 propylene glycol monostearate, 5 ethylene glycol monostearate
  • polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl ether
  • polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether
  • Polyglyceryl-3-isostearates eg Isolan Gl 34 from Tego
  • Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate 10.2 polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate 10.4-10.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate
  • PEG-40 Castor OiI eg Eumulgin RO 40
  • Decylglucoside Oramix NS 10
  • Dodecylglucoside Planten APG 600
  • Dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 15 moles EO
  • Polyethylene glycol 1000
  • Monostearate Polyoxyethylene 600
  • Monooleate 15-17 Eumulgin HRE 60 (Castor oil, ethoxylated with 60 EO and hydrogenated)
  • Ceteareth-30 e.g. B. Eumulgin B 3 Octylglucoside (Triton CG 110)
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, preferably at most 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably at most 10 wt .-% , particularly preferably at most 7 wt .-%, more preferably at most 4 wt .-% and most preferably at most 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention is.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention further contain at least one liquid under normal conditions, which is not a fragrance component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum - 1, 0 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or maximum + 1, 0 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 , preferably by a maximum of -0.8 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or a maximum of +0.8 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 , more preferably by maximum - 0.7 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or at most + 0.7 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 , most preferably by a maximum of - 0.6 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 or at most + 0.4 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 deviates from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-
  • preferred oils are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8-22 alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® EB, and benzoic acid octyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® BOD.
  • Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction.
  • Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G 16, Guerbitol ® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ® 18, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24th
  • preferred oil components are mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate). Further according to the invention preferred oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 - 3 o-fatty acids.
  • Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like.
  • natural oils for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like.
  • synthetic triglyceride oils in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z.
  • Myritol ® 318 Myritol ® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin
  • Estol ® GTEH 3609 Uniqema
  • Myritol ® GTEH Cognis
  • diisopropyl adipate di-n-butyl adipate
  • di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate dioctyl adipate
  • particularly preferred oils are selected from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C 8-22 alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
  • mono- or polyhydric C 8-22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
  • Preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the liquid d) which is liquid under normal conditions is selected from benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 -C 22 -alkanols, branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 30 carbon atoms, triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 - 3 o fatty acids, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C 8 .
  • 22 -alkanols addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to monovalent or polyvalent C 3 .
  • 22 -alkanols C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 -hydroxycarboxylic acids, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12 -C 22 -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 18 - alkanols or with polyfunctional linear or branched C 2 -C 6 -alkanols, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances.
  • Particularly preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the liquid (s) oil (s) under normal conditions is present in a total amount of 3 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 14% by weight. , Particularly preferably 6-12 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is / are.
  • no liquid under normal conditions oils are contained, the solubility by more than + 1, 2 (cal / cm 3) 0 '5 from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water -in-oil emulsifiers deviates.
  • unsuitable oil components are, for example, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
  • Silicone oils which z.
  • dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, have solubility parameters in the range of about 5.7 to 6.3 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 , which differs by more than 1, 2 (cal / cm 3 ) 0 ' 5 from the value of the water-in-oil emulsifiers used in the invention.
  • Natural and synthetic hydrocarbons such as paraffin oils, isohexadecane, Isoeico- san, polyisobutenes or polydecenes, which are obtainable for example under the designation Emery ® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ® from Albemarle or Nexbase ® 2004G from Nestle, and 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S) also belong to the present invention less preferred oil components.
  • silicone oils and / or hydrocarbons in a preferred embodiment of the invention should therefore not be greater than 20%, based on the total weight of oils which are liquid under normal conditions, otherwise the sticks according to the invention will not achieve the hardness and stability desired in terms of application.
  • no silicone oils and / or hydrocarbons, in particular no paraffin and isoparaffin hydrocarbons, are contained.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention also contain at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.
  • These components are preferably selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2.
  • Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols, such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1, 8- Octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol xylitol, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol
  • hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol
  • 1,2-octanediol 1, 8- Octanediol
  • dipropylene glycol tripropylene glycol
  • diglycerol diglycerol
  • triglycerol erythritol
  • sorbitol xylitol and mixture
  • Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred.
  • Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are also suitable according to the invention.
  • Preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1, 2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5 Pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglyce
  • Particularly preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units in total Amounts of 3 - 30 wt .-%, preferably 8 - 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 - 18 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, is included.
  • the proportion of water in the composition according to the invention is 5 to 70% by weight, preferably 10 to 35% by weight, more preferably 15 to 30% by weight, most preferably 20 to 28% by weight, based in each case on total composition.
  • Preferred stick compositions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one deodorant and / or at least one antiperspirant active ingredient.
  • Deodorant active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention are odor absorbers, deodorizing ion exchangers, germ-inhibiting agents, prebiotic active components and also enzyme inhibitors or, particularly preferred, combinations of said active substances.
  • Silicates serve as odor absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention.
  • the silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention include, in particular, phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, IHt, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum.
  • Further advantageous odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, Zinkricinoleat, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.5 to 7 wt .-% and exceptionally 1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition used.
  • germ-inhibiting or antimicrobial active ingredients are understood as meaning those active substances which reduce the number of skin germs participating in the formation of the odor or inhibit their growth.
  • These organisms include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci.
  • Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are, in particular, organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a series of plant extracts and zinc compounds.
  • triclosan chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate
  • 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, Cetylpyridinium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride.
  • phenol phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as.
  • chlorophyllin copper complexes ⁇ -monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 6 - C 22 alkyl rest, particularly preferably ⁇ - (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil).
  • Sensiva ® SC 50 ex Schülke & Mayr
  • carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate
  • lantibiotics and plant extracts eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil.
  • deodorant active substances are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs that lead to a include healthy skin microflora.
  • active substances which are disclosed in the published patent applications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 as being prebiotically effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.
  • deodorant active ingredients are selected from the germ-inhibiting perfume oils and the Deosafe perfume oils, which are available from Symrise, formerly Haarmann and Reimer.
  • the enzyme inhibitors include substances which inhibit the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular the arylsulfatase, ⁇ -glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxygenase, eg. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.
  • Preferred sticks according to the invention in particular deodorant sticks or antiperspirant sticks, are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient is selected from arylsulfatase inhibitors.
  • ren ⁇ -glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, esterase inhibitors, lipase inhibitors and lipoxigenase inhibitors, ⁇ -monoalkyl glycerol ethers having a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 6 -C 22 -alkyl radical, in particular ⁇ - ( 2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ethers, phenoxyethanol, odor-inhibiting perfume oils, Deosafe perfume oils, prebiotic components, trialkylcitric acid esters, in particular triethyl citrate, active substances which are the number of skin germs from the group of staphylococci, corynebacteria involved in the formation of odors Anerococci and micrococci reduce or inhibit their growth, zinc compounds, in particular zinc phenolsulfonate and zinc ricinoleate, organohalogen compounds, in particular triclosan, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine glu
  • deodorant or antiperspirant sticks are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 7 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.3 to 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.4 to 1, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the active substance in the total composition, is included.
  • Preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that at least one antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc or any mixtures of these salts is contained.
  • antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al 2 (OH) 5 Cl ⁇ 2-3 H 2 O] n , which may be present in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form , further aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum or aluminum zirconium glycol complexes, e.g.
  • a solubility of at least 5 wt .-% at 20 0 C is understood according to the invention, solubility in water, that is, amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active ingredient in 95 g of water are soluble at 20 0 C.
  • the antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as aqueous solutions.
  • Particularly preferred pens according to the invention, in particular deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, are characterized in that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient is present in an amount of 3 to 27% by weight, preferably 5 to 22% by weight and in particular 10 to 20% by weight %, based on the total weight of the active substance in the total composition.
  • the composition comprises an astringent aluminum salt, especially aluminum chlorohydrate, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ® Ultrafine from Reheis, in the form of an aqueous solution as Locron ® L from Clariant, as Chlorhydrol ® as well as in activated form as Reach ® 501 Reheis is distributed. Under the name Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered, which is likewise particularly preferred. Also, the use of aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrex konium-glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ® or as a powder Rezal 36 GP in the trade, may be particularly preferred in the present invention.
  • the stick compositions of the invention may contain both at least one deodorant and at least one antiperspirant active.
  • Particularly preferred pins according to the invention are characterized in that at least one wax component with a melting point in the range of 25 - ⁇ 50 0 C, selected from Kokosfett Textreglycerinmono- mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter ) and esters of saturated, monohydric C 8 -C 8 alcohols with saturated C 2 -C 8 monocarboxylic acids and mixtures of these substances, is contained.
  • These lower melting wax components allow for consistency optimization of the product and a minimization of the visible residue on the skin.
  • 2 -C 8 monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl (z. B. Crodamol ® CSS), cetyl palmitate (z. B. Cutina ® CP) and myristyl myristate (z. B. Cetiol ® MM).
  • pins according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one wax component is mixed with a melting point. point in the range from 25 to 50 ° C. in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 18% by weight and most preferably 6 to 15% by weight. %, based on the total composition.
  • Particularly preferred pins according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler for improving the stick consistency and the sensory properties.
  • this filler is selected from optionally modified starches (for. Example, of corn, rice, potatoes) and starch derivatives, which are, if desired, pregelatinized, in particular starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ®, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, silica, silicic acids, e.g.
  • Aerosil ® types spherical Polyalkylsesquisiloxan particles (especially Aerosil ® R972 and Aerosil ® 200V from Degussa), silica gels, talc, kaolin, clays, z. Bentonites, magnesium aluminum silicates, boron nitride, lactoglobulin derivatives, e.g. B. Sodium C 8 _ 16 - Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat from Brooks Industries available as a commercial product Biopol ® OE, glass powders, polymer powders, in particular of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, z.
  • nylon polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, or silicones, and mixtures of these substances.
  • Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ® 6603 (Dow Corning) available.
  • Other polymer powders e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem.
  • Other polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. B.
  • Particularly preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler in a total amount of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight preferably 8-15 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • perfumes perfume oils or perfume oil ingredients can be used.
  • perfume oils or fragrances can according to the invention individual fragrance compounds, eg. As the synthetic products of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate (DMBCA), phenylethyl acetate, benzyl acetate, Ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate,
  • DMBCA dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate
  • Ethylmethylphenylglycinate allylcyclohexylpropionate
  • styrallylpropionate benzylsalicylate
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals having 8-18 C atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, LiNaI and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g.
  • the ionones alpha-lsomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone
  • the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes such as limonene and pinene.
  • limonene and pinene terpenes
  • mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance.
  • perfume oils may also contain natural fragrance mixtures such as are available from vegetable sources, e.g. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are Muskateller sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.
  • a fragrance In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception.
  • fragrances Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", “middle note or body” As the smell perception is based to a large extent on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance consists not only of volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part from less volatile In the composition of perfumes, for example, volatile fragrances can be bound to certain fixatives, which prevents them from evaporating too quickly the smell impression and on whether the corre sponding is perceived as the head or middle note, nothing said.
  • Adhesive-resistant fragrances which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champagne blossom oil, fir pine oil, pinecone oil, elemi oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, Ginger Grass Oil, Guajac Wood Oil, Gurjun Balm Oil, Helichrysum Oil, Ho Oil, Ginger Oil, Iris Oil, Cajeput Oil, Calam Oil, Chamomile Oil, Camphor Oil, Kanaga Oil, Cardamom Oil, Cassia Oil, Pine Needle Oil, Kopa ⁇ Vabalsam Oil, Coriander Oil, Spearmint Oil, Cumin Oil, Cumin Oil, Lavender Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Lime Oil, Man-made oil, lemon balm oil, musk kernel oil, myrrh oil, clove oil, neroli
  • fragrances can be used in the context of the present invention as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances.
  • These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, ⁇ -amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate , Benzyl valerate, borneol, boronyl acetate, ⁇ -bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalypto
  • the more volatile fragrances include in particular the lower-boiling fragrances of natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures.
  • Examples of more volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkylmustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.
  • Particularly preferred pens according to the invention are characterized in that at least one perfume component in a total amount of 0.00001 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the Total composition is included.
  • the stick compositions of the invention are characterized by a penetration force value in the range of 150-800 grams force (g-force), preferably in the range of 250-700 grams force (g-force), more preferably in the range of 350 - 650 gram force (g-force), with a penetration depth of 5,000 mm.
  • the penetration force value is a measure of the hardness of a pencil (or even of a solid cream composition) and indicates the maximum force with which a defined measuring probe, here a 45 ° stainless steel cone (model TA 15), up to a penetration depth of 5,000 mm ( five point zero zero zero mm) is moved vertically (axially) into the pencil mass to be measured at a feed rate of 2 mm / second.
  • the determination of the penetration force value is carried out with the TA-XT2i Texture Analyzer Stable Micro Systems (Vienna Court, Lammas Road, Godalming, Surrey GU7 1YL, England).
  • the maximum force is given in grams force (g-force).
  • Lower values mean a softer composition, harder compositions have a higher penetration force value.
  • Creamy compositions are often measured at a penetration depth of 10,000 mm (ten point zero zero zero mm) to obtain more accurate values. This penetration depth can usually not be measured with harder pencil masses, as this often already begins to break the pencil mass. A doubling of the penetration depth means about a tripling to quadrupling the measured value of the maximum force.
  • the measurements are carried out at ambient conditions of 30 0 C and 50% relative humidity, the sample temperature is 23 ° C.
  • the measurements are preferably carried out 3 days and / or 4 weeks after production of the stick composition according to the invention.
  • the antiperspirant creams disclosed in DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 have penetrating force values of 9-15 gram force (g-force) under the measuring conditions mentioned here.
  • the water-containing sticks disclosed in the prior art are present almost exclusively in the form of water-in-oil emulsions or emulsions with the aqueous phase as the dispersed phase.
  • the measurement of the electrical resistance serves as a test which can be carried out quickly and reliably, as is customary in the study of emulsions.
  • An oil-in-water system has higher electrical conductivity due to the continuous water phase and consequently lower electrical resistance than a water-in-oil system.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention are characterized by an electrical resistance of at most 400 k ⁇ .
  • the resistance is measured with a Voltcraft model VC820 multimeter with automatic range switching (0-400 ⁇ / 40M ⁇ ( ⁇ 1% + 2dgt)) and two stainless steel microtip probes 1, 0 mm.
  • the electrode distance is fixed with a millimeter gauge.
  • the measurement is carried out at room temperature (22 ° C).
  • the microtip electrodes are fixed parallel to the millimeter gauge at a distance of 27.0 mm and connected to the ohmmeter.
  • the measurement of the electrical resistance takes place directly on the pins. For this purpose, the usually curved surface of the pins is removed with a knife so far that results in a flat cut surface.
  • the measuring electrodes are inserted approximately 5 mm vertically into the pin mass.
  • the measured value of the electrical resistance is read off after 30 seconds.
  • the cleaning of the measuring electrodes takes place with an alcohol-soaked cellulose cloth.
  • tap water has an electrical resistance of 250 k ⁇ , a 20 wt .-% aqueous aluminum chlorohydrate solution 3 k ⁇ and demineralized water 1, 7 M ⁇ .
  • Particularly preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that furthermore pigments, e.g. As titanium dioxide, is included.
  • the pig ment content supports the cosmetic acceptance of the preparation by the user.
  • particularly preferred pins according to the invention in particular deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, characterized in that they contain the usual ingredients of cosmetic preparations, for. As dyes, nanospheres, preservatives and sunscreens, antioxidants, enzymes and care substances. These are present in particularly preferred sticks according to the invention, in particular deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, preferably in an amount of 0.001-20% by weight.
  • Particularly preferred sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one radical scavenging substance for product stabilization, more preferably a substance with the INCI name tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, which, for. B. under the trade name Tinogard Q available from Ciba.
  • Tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate is preferably contained in amounts of 0.01-0.1, particularly preferably 0.025-0.05,% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • UV filters are preferably selected from benzotriazole derivatives, in particular 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazole-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) - phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2 - (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenol-1) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No.
  • water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsalze, especially the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No.
  • deodorant sticks or antiperspirant sticks are characterized in that they contain the radical scavenger tris (tetra methylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate and the UV filter bumetrizole for product stabilization.
  • Bumetrizole is preferably present in amounts of 0.01-0.1, particularly preferably 0.025-0.05,% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids and their salts are particularly preferred.
  • the at least one complex-forming substance is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01-0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • deodorant or antiperspirant sticks are characterized in that they contain at least one free-radical scavenger substance and at least one substance selected from UV filters and complex-forming substances.
  • deodorant or antiperspirant sticks are characterized in that they contain at least one free-radical scavenger substance, at least one UV filter and at least one complex-forming substance.
  • Suitable substances which inhibit hair growth are in particular selected from eflornithine, active ingredient combinations of soy protein hydrolyzate, urea, menthol, salicylic acid and extracts of hypericum perforatum, hamamelis virginiana, arnica montana and the bark of Salix alba, as for example and preferably in the raw material Pilinhib ® Veg LS 9109 from Laboratoires Serobiiquess with the INCI declaration "Propylene glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic Acid "also contains drug combinations of extracts of Epilobium angustifolium, the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, zucchini) and the fruits of Serenoa serrulat
  • Further preferred hair growth-inhibiting active ingredients are selected from substances which inhibit the protein tyrosine kinase, in particular from lavendustin-A, erbstatin, tyrphostin, piceatannol, 4-hydroxybenxylidenmalononitrile, 3,5-di-ferf-butyl-4-hydroxybenzylidenemalononitrile, ⁇ -cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, ⁇ -cyano- (3,4,5-trihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, ⁇ -cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, ⁇ -cyano- (3 , 4-dihydroxy) thiocinnamide, 2-amino-4- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1, 1, 3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (3,4,5'-tri) hydroxyphenyl) -1, 1, 3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (1H-alpha-
  • agonists of the farnesoid X receptor preferably selected from bile acids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodeoxycholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and 6 -alpha-ethylchenodeoxycholic acid, furthermore from farnesoids, in particular farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), farnesal, farnesyl acetate, 3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6 , 10-dodecatriene-1-carboxylic acid, methyl farnesyl ether, methyl farnesoate, ethyl farnesyl ether, Ethyl farnesoate, further comprising methyl 7-methyl-9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoate (juvenile), farnesoids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chen
  • compositions of the invention contain at least one hair growth inhibiting substance preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1 to 4 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the raw material tel quel and the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • preservatives may also be added to the compositions of the invention to prevent spoilage of the product by microbial growth.
  • Many preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties, so some substances belong to both groups.
  • Benzoic acid and its derivatives for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate
  • propionic acid and derivatives thereof for example ammonium, sodium and potassium are particularly suitable as preservatives for cosmetics.
  • Potassium and magnesium propionate sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate
  • salicylic acid and its derivatives eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate
  • 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl.
  • DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea
  • ferulic acid and its derivatives eg ethyl ferulate
  • sorbic acid and its derivatives eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate
  • isothiazole and oxazole derivatives eg, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine
  • quaternary ammonium compounds eg, Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium -14, quaternium-15
  • carbamates eg, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
  • formaldehyde and sodium formate glutaraldehyde, glyox
  • Preservatives preferred according to the invention are phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutylparaben, and also iodopropynyl butylcarbamate.
  • the amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions of the present invention is from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Corresponding pens can be made up, for example, as lipstick or concealer and used by topical application to the skin.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they furthermore comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances , DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, moisturizing agents, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids, ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plants extra kts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine , Theophylline
  • the monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, Hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, VaNn, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, Sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decanoyl glut
  • the C 2 -C 24 -acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl- , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, Palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl residue.
  • Mixtures of C 8 -C 18 acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.
  • the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group.
  • a preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C 2 -C 22 fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift PDHP available from the company Seppic.
  • physiologically tolerated salts of the active compounds according to the invention which contain acid groups and can form salts, are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium,
  • Calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts Preferably, the sodium, potassium, magnesium,
  • amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids.
  • the oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified.
  • amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys into thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thereby release active TGF- ⁇ (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts
  • TSP-1 thrombospondin I
  • TGF- ⁇ tissue growth factor
  • N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-Citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg.
  • acetyl-Citrullyl-arginine eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine
  • Tyr-Arg dipeptide-1
  • Val- Trp dipeptide-2
  • Asn-Phe As
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component
  • the tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu 2+ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, suitable for the substitution of Gly are AIa, Leu and N.
  • the preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. B. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn, or citrulline
  • Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: Tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-My ristoyl-G Iy-H is-Arg, the z. B.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides.
  • Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.
  • Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, which is particularly preferred according to the invention and which, for example, is disclosed in US Pat. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma.
  • the Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z.
  • the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg.
  • at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary.
  • the substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below.
  • Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which may substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.
  • the preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne).
  • an aliphatic side chain e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne).
  • the preferred amino acids which can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.
  • the preferred amino acids that can replace Arg include a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, such as Pro, Lys, His, desmosine, and isodesmosine.
  • Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne).
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, more preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, the N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-Palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, N, is also available under the name Matrixyl from Sederma.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.
  • hexapeptide-5 also referred to as biopepitid EL
  • TPI hexapeptide-5
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-5 eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-6 eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI
  • hexapeptide-8 eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-8 eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI
  • hexapeptide-9 eg Collaxyl from Vincience
  • hexapeptide-10 eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec
  • Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp hexapeptide-1
  • acetyl hexapeptide-1 e.g., modulene from Vincience
  • acetyl hexapeptide-1 e
  • hexapeptide-4 e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)
  • hexapeptide-5 e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-5 eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-6 eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI
  • Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp hexapeptide-7)
  • Hexapeptide-8 e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-8 e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI
  • hexapeptide-9 e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience
  • hexapeptide-10 e.g.
  • hexapeptides-1 1 eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care
  • An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z.
  • Vinci 01 by Vincience Pentadecapeptide-1
  • Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.
  • the polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins having more than 30 amino acid units.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are z.
  • Vegetable protein hydrolysates eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates.
  • Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ® (Diamalt) Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • soy protein hydrolysates more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ® available from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates with an average molecular weight in Range of 600-1,000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, e.g. As available under the trade name Phytokine ® from Coletica, with coconut fatty acids, N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates in the form of their alkali metal salts.
  • Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids.
  • Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.
  • Another particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is an N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate with coconut fatty acids in the form of the potassium salt, which is available from Sinerga under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya.
  • keratin hydrolysates in particular wool keratin hydrolysates.
  • a particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons.
  • conchiolin hydrolyzates in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen.
  • Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.
  • protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.
  • acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates are also preferred.
  • Corresponding commercial products are z.
  • Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® ® or Crotein (Croda).
  • cationic protein hydrolysates are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are some of the under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and listed in the trade: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.
  • the polymers of the amino acids contained in the stick compositions according to the invention are selected from DNA repair enzymes.
  • DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes.
  • DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.
  • Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3.
  • a particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.
  • the enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the cfenV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ' -3 ' ) bond.
  • T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.
  • Liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes are commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome TM, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome TM from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.
  • particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they at least one of the commercial products Photosomes TM or Ultrasomes TM in total amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1, 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total inventive pin included.
  • particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 - 2 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the entire pen composition according to the invention, included.
  • the stick compositions of the invention contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide.
  • an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges.
  • the nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic Binding to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid.
  • the mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).
  • An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, And particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention contain at least one natural betaine compound.
  • Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic grouping R 3 N + -CH 2 -X-COO according to ILJPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which do not belong to the ILJPAC. Comply with rule C-816.1.
  • particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-% , in each case based on the entire stick composition included.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of formula (A), in particular (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least an ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.05-0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others Vitamin B 1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 '-amino-2' -methyl-5 '-pyrimidinyl) - methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride.
  • Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
  • Vitamin B 2 common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) - benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione.
  • Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
  • Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • Panthenol is preferably used.
  • Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.
  • the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R 1 to R 6 are independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or tri-amino-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical represent.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers.
  • the invention extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R 1 is a hydroxyl group, R 2 is a Hydrogen atom, R 3 and R 4 is a methyl group and R 5 and R 6 is a hydrogen atom.
  • the stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin B 6 which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B 6 component in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • Vitamin B 7 also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin”.
  • Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • Folic acid vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c ).
  • N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu.
  • Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate.
  • Folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid.
  • Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound with a vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H 2 folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H 4 folate, THF, 5 '- Methyl tetrahydrofolic acid, CH 3 -H 4 folate, MeTHF).
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
  • Orotic acid (vitamin B 13 , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid).
  • Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention contain at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B 1 , B 2 , B 3 , B 6 , B 7 and their esters and from pantolactone.
  • Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, Chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside.
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially ⁇ -tocopherol, and its derivatives.
  • Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in one Total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B 7 (see above).
  • the fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group that underlie the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone include phylloquinone (vitamin K 1 ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K 3 ).
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the present invention.
  • the stick compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form.
  • Preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid,
  • Particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
  • the esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
  • particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid and / or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • inventively preferred flavonoids include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the
  • flavonols 3-hydroxyflavones
  • aurones and isoflavones.
  • flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin, ⁇ -glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy)
  • Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are ⁇ -glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.
  • flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin,
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.
  • isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.
  • the isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
  • the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar.
  • Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.
  • the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are used as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a vegetable Extracts contained in the preparations.
  • a vegetable Extracts contained in the preparations can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas.
  • Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoid131s- dance in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract.
  • polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene.
  • free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives.
  • Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloyl gallic acid.
  • Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation.
  • Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.
  • a particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic.
  • Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay T rob, available from the company Croda.
  • the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and very preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the commercial product, of at least one polyphenol contains, used in the entire composition of the invention.
  • the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof.
  • Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones.
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain silymarin.
  • silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance.
  • the main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavano lignans ,
  • compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline.
  • the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine.
  • Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.
  • ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for ⁇ / methyl guanidinoacetic acid or ⁇ / amidinosarcosine.
  • creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract).
  • An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience.
  • Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid and / or oleanol.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid and / or oleanol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the total composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters.
  • polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified.
  • Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • Hydroxystilbenes which are particularly preferred according to the invention and their esters are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts, furthermore from hydroxystilbene oligomers, eg. B. epsilon-viniferin.
  • An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorklareester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol.
  • Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from: sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol) methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C®, exsymol) methylsilanol mannuronate nylon 12 (Algisium C powder®, exsymol) ascorbylmethylsilanol (ascorbosilane concentrate C®, exsymol) ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C®, exsymol) dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC®, exsymol) dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane nylon 12 (DSBC powder®, exsymol) sodium h
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the active substance in the total composition of the invention ,
  • compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of maize kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract).
  • Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1 - 3 wt .-%, more preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition.
  • Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract extracts of maize kernels
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract extracts of corn kernels
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract).
  • a particularly preferred extract of oat grains according to the invention is available under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1 - 3 wt .-%, more preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition.
  • extracts of oat grains Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.001 to 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.
  • active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.001 to 0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment.
  • Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • a particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinu m / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 wt .-% contain, in each case based on the content of product tel quel in the whole composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinu m / Black Tea ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.00001 - 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 0.05 wt .-% contained, each based on the content of Active substance in the entire composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).
  • apple seed extracts Panolitic malus (Apple) Fruit Extract
  • Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga.
  • the product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
  • Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001 - 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 1, 6 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract).
  • lotus nuclei Naelumbo nucifera germ extract
  • Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2%. 3% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of red wine.
  • Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • a particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • the grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape.
  • Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.1-10 % By weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of black elder flowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.
  • An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight and more preferably 2-3% by weight. , in each case based on the total composition.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elder flowers in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0 , 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active ingredient which stimulates beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes.
  • Stimulators of the beta-endorphin synthesis which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from mixtures of at least one extract from the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract from cocoa beans, aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures, which are sold under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol , Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange available from the company Solabia, are particularly preferred.
  • Another particularly preferred stimulator of the beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyl decyl ester with the INCI name Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, the z. B. as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine from the company Sederma is available.
  • Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight and more preferably 1 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product containing the active ingredient, in the entire composition of the invention included.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the total composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.
  • the UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. heat, again.
  • the UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
  • the organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the physiologically tolerated derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5 Triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonklareestern and -carbonklareamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzal- malonklaestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the said components.
  • the organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) - benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcin
  • Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsalze, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters.
  • compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, and SS ⁇ -trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, and SS ⁇ -trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.
  • the inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck).
  • Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones.
  • Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-0. 15 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 3.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0%. 5 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient.
  • Self-tanning active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, tyrosine, tyrosine derivatives, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and erythrulose.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight .-% and most preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient.
  • preferred skin lightening agents are selected from ascorbic acid, thereof the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C 2 -C 2 o-carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract, and licorice extract and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred.
  • the invention extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
  • particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one skin lightening agent in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active substance which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis.
  • active compounds which inhibit prostaglandin synthesis are selected from active substances which inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase and active substances which inhibit the secretion of interleukins, in particular of interleukin-1-alpha.
  • active substances which inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase are selected from active substances which inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase and active substances which inhibit the secretion of interleukins, in particular of interleukin-1-alpha.
  • Preferred drugs that inhibit leukotriene synthesis are selected from drugs that inhibit the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase.
  • the inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase can be understood as meaning both a reduction in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction in its activity, as well as both.
  • Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis which are preferred according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin secretion, are selected from silymarin, which is particularly preferably used in liposome-encapsulated form (obtainable, for example, under the trade name silymarin phytosome (INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract and phospholipids) from the company Indena SpA.
  • silymarin represents an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was formerly regarded as a uniform substance.
  • silybin silybin I
  • silychristin silymarin II
  • silydianin Other preferred inhibitors of prostagladin synthesis according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin secretion, are selected from extracts of Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethine acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of prostaglandin synthesis in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001-2.0% by weight, more preferably 0 , 05 - 1, 0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Preferred inhibitors of leukotriene synthesis according to the invention are selected from algin hydrolyzates, amino dicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically tolerated salts, N-alkylated C 2 -C 11 amino acids with C ⁇ -C 22 -alkyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, N-acylated C 2 -C 11 - amino acids with C 2 -C 22 acyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, yeast extracts, ⁇ -bisabolol, ⁇ -lipoic acid, allantoin and any mixtures of these agents.
  • the algin hydrolyzates according to the invention are selected from the products which, for. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides AI, are available from Codif.
  • aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and salts thereof in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention used.
  • the inventively preferred N-alkylated C 2 -C- ⁇ -amino acids having a C 1 -C 22 -alkyl radical selected from alanine, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, Proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically tolerated salts which on the nitrogen atom of the amino group are a C 1 -C 22 -alkyl radical selected from a group consisting of methyl, ethyl, Propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, te
  • the N-alkylated C ⁇ -C- ⁇ -amino acids are preferred with a C 1 -C 22 -alkyl radical and their physiologically tolerable salts in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention used.
  • the inventively preferred N-acylated C 2 -C -n-amino acids having a C 2 -C 22 acyl radical are selected from glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan , Phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the Amino acids can be used individually or in a mixture. Particularly suitable according to the invention are amino acid mixtures which have been obtained from plants, in particular cereal plants.
  • the C 2 -C 22 -acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl- , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical.
  • Mixtures of C 8 -C 18 acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.
  • the cereal plants from which the amino acids suitable according to the invention are obtained are subject to no restriction. Suitable are, for example, oats, wheat, barley and rye; oat is particularly suitable.
  • a particularly preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor is the Seppicalm commercial product from Seppic Company with the INCI name "Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartates, Magnesium Aspartates".
  • N-acylated C ⁇ - Cn-amino acids having a C 2 -C 22 -acyl radical and the physiologically tolerable salts thereof in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition used.
  • the yeast extracts preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are in amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the extract tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention used.
  • a particularly preferred commercial product is Drieline (INCI name "Sorbitol, Yeast Extract”), available from Lanatech.
  • the preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor according to the invention is ⁇ -bisabolol in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. , in each case based on the total topical composition used.
  • the 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor preferred according to the invention is ⁇ -lipoic acid in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. , in each case based on the total topical composition used.
  • the preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor according to the invention is allantoin in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total topical composition used.
  • the physiologically tolerated salts of the sterol sulfates which are preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the salts of ⁇ -sitosterol sulfate, ergosterol sulfate, stigmasterol sulfate, cholesterol sulfate and lanosterol sulfate.
  • the sterol sulphate salts are used in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition.
  • the Sterolsulfatsalze can be used both individually and in any mixtures.
  • a particularly preferred commercial product is phytocohesins (INCI name "Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate”), available from Vincience.
  • physiologically acceptable salts of the abovementioned 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of leukotriene synthesis in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 0 , 05 - 1, 0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient.
  • Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria and mixtures of the abovementioned substances.
  • Preferred blends are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1, 10-decanediol) from Vincience.
  • a preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab.
  • Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1 -2 Wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.
  • Stiffening compositions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active substance.
  • Moisturizing active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention are selected from deoxysugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides which contain at least one deoxy sugar building block, particularly preferred from the commercial products Fucogel (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and Glycofilm ® (INCI designation Biosaccharide rubber 4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ® from Solabia, further urea, further alkyl- or
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert.
  • Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient in a total amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1 or 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one prebiotic active ingredient.
  • prebiotic active ingredients are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly unwanted germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the germs which belong to a healthy skin microflora.
  • active substances which are disclosed in the published patent applications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 as being prebiotically effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.
  • compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one prebiotic active ingredient in a total amount of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight and more preferably 0.5-2% by weight. %, contain.
  • Further inventively particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigment.
  • Preferred pigments of this type may be inorganic or organic. Further preferred pigments have an average particle diameter of 0.1-200 ⁇ m, preferably 0.5-100 ⁇ m, more preferably 1-50 ⁇ m and most preferably 2-30 ⁇ m.
  • Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are selected from the oxides of silicon, titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, magnesium, cerium and bismuth, bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, mica, fluorspar and water-insoluble pearlescent pigments which are coated with at least one inorganic and / or organic compound can.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Particularly preferred dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list.
  • the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • trans-alpha, beta or gamma-carotene 75130 Il orange
  • trans-alpha, beta or gamma-carotene 75130 Il orange
  • Chlorophyll a and b Copper Compounds of Chlorophylls and Chlorophylline
  • the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthaline , Ceresrot, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azo-naphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo 1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-nap
  • Pearlescent pigments which are preferred according to the invention are selected from natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example, pearlescent pigments.
  • natural pearlescent pigments such as, for example, pearlescent pigments.
  • B. fish silver
  • broodanthine mixed crystals from fish scales and "mother-of-pearl” (mashed mussel shells)
  • monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such.
  • layered substrate pigments e.g. Mica / metal oxide.
  • the basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particular preference is z.
  • CIN 77163 luster pigment are examples of the CIN 77163 luster pigment.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on metal oxide-coated mica are also preferred according to the invention.
  • pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. As silica and the like.
  • a substrate such as mica.
  • pearlescent pigments prepared using SiO 2 .
  • Such pigments which may also have additional goniochromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.
  • pigments from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate which are coated with titanium dioxide. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 - 180 ⁇ m, they have a glittering effect in addition to the color. Also particularly advantageous are also effect pigments which are available under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yellow, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech.
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, wherein different coating thicknesses generally cause different color effects.
  • pigments are selected from colored and colorless pigments. Some of the pigments mentioned below also serve as UV absorbers. Particularly preferred colored pigments are selected from the iron oxides with the Color Index numbers Cl 77491 (iron oxide red), Cl 77492 (iron oxide hydrate yellow) and Cl 77499 (iron oxide black), from Cl 77891 (titanium dioxide) and carbon black. A particularly preferred pigment is the commercial product SUNPMMA-S and SUNSIL Tin 30 from Sunjin Chemicals Co. having an average particle diameter of 5-10 ⁇ m and 2-7 ⁇ m, respectively. Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are coated. The coating can be carried out with the aid of inorganic and / or organic compounds. Particularly preferred according to the invention are inorganic pigments which have an inorganic coating.
  • Exceptionally preferred pigments of this type are selected from silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides.
  • a particularly preferred pigment of this type is the commercial product Ronasphere ® LDP Merck KGaA. This product is a spherical silica particle coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide. Ronasphere LDP ® has an average particle diameter of 4 - 7 microns.
  • inorganic-coated mica pigments which have no pearlescence.
  • Further preferred inorganic coated inorganic pigments are mica pigments coated with titanium dioxide in different layer thicknesses, for example, the products of Timiron ® - Series of Rona / Merck KGaA, in particular pigments of the product lines Timiron® MP ®, Timiron® Super ®, ® Timiron® Starlight and Timiron ® Siik.
  • the products mentioned have average particle diameters of 5 to 60 ⁇ m or 10 to 60 ⁇ m or 10 to 125 ⁇ m or 5 to 25 ⁇ m.
  • mica particles having a coating of titanium dioxide and iron oxide e.g.
  • mica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or red and / or black iron oxide eg.
  • the products of the Colorona ® series are also preferred.
  • Further preferred pigments are silica gel-coated mica pigments, e.g. As the commercial product Micronasphere ® M.
  • Further inventively preferred pigments are inorganic coated inorganic pigments whose coating has a content of 0.1 to 1 wt.% Tin oxide.
  • inorganic pigments which are coated with organic substances.
  • Preferred examples thereof are titanium dioxide pigments coated with aluminum (z., The commercial product MT 100 T from the company Tayca), dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) coated zinc oxide, boron nitride coated with Dimethicone (Tres BN ® 1106 UHP from around carbo- ), (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel Simethicone) and hydrated aluminum oxide (alumina) coated titanium dioxide (Eusolex ® T 2000 by Merck), with octylsilanol coated titanium dioxide particles or spherical Polyalkylsesquisiloxan-(Aerosil ® R972 from Degussa).
  • Another particularly preferred pigment is the commercial product SB-705 from Miyoshi Kasei, a spherical silica gel with the INCI name Silica, which has an average particle diameter of 5 - 6 microns and a surface area of about 600 m 2 / g.
  • Further inventively particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigment in a total amount of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably 2 - 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for reducing body odor, which is characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 - 33 applied to the skin, in particular on the skin of the armpits.
  • a further subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for applying makeup and / or matting and / or for mattifying the skin and / or the mucous membrane, which is characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 - 33 is applied to the skin / or mucous membrane.
  • Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for covering wrinkles, wrinkles or fine lines, which is characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 to 33 is applied to the skin or mucous membrane.
  • a further subject of the present invention is a process for producing a stick according to any one of claims 1-33, wherein the wax and oil components together with the oil-in-water and the water-in-oil emulsifier / are heated to 90-95 ° C and melted, then the likewise heated to 90 - 95 ° C water with the active ingredients and ingredients is added with vigorous stirring, optionally further ingredients are added, the mixture cooled to a suitable filling temperature , filled into suitable donor forms and solidified by static cooling (without further stirring) to room temperature.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des bâtonnets cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, en particulier des bâtonnets déodorants ou anti-transpirants à base d'une émulsion/dispersion huile dans l'eau, à appliquer sur la peau.
EP07822512A 2006-11-14 2007-11-13 Bâtonnet cosmétique ou dermatologique à base d'une émulsion/dispersion huile dans l'eau, produisant peu de résidus Withdrawn EP2076235A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102006053886A DE102006053886A1 (de) 2006-11-14 2006-11-14 Rückstandsarmer kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Stift auf Basis einer Öl-in-Wasser-Dispersion/Emulsion III
PCT/EP2007/062236 WO2008058943A2 (fr) 2006-11-14 2007-11-13 Bâtonnet cosmétique ou dermatologique à base d'une émulsion/dispersion huile dans l'eau, produisant peu de résidus

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EP2076235A2 true EP2076235A2 (fr) 2009-07-08

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US (1) US20100047296A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2076235A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102006053886A1 (fr)
RU (1) RU2009122244A (fr)
WO (1) WO2008058943A2 (fr)

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US20100047296A1 (en) 2010-02-25
RU2009122244A (ru) 2010-12-20
DE102006053886A1 (de) 2008-05-15
WO2008058943A3 (fr) 2009-05-14
WO2008058943A2 (fr) 2008-05-22

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