Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
  • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
  • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
  • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
  • D06M11/40—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table combined with, or in absence of, mechanical tension, e.g. slack mercerising
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
  • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
  • D06M13/144—Alcohols; Metal alcoholates
  • D06M13/148—Polyalcohols, e.g. glycerol or glucose
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
  • D06M23/16—Processes for the non-uniform application of treating agents, e.g. one-sided treatment; Differential treatment
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/46—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
  • D06P1/5207—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • D06P1/525—Polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids or functional derivatives thereof
  • D06P1/5257—(Meth)acrylic acid
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/62—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds with sulfate, sulfonate, sulfenic or sulfinic groups
  • D06P1/621—Compounds without nitrogen
  • D06P1/622—Sulfonic acids or their salts
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/64—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds without sulfate or sulfonate groups
  • D06P1/651—Compounds without nitrogen
  • D06P1/65106—Oxygen-containing compounds
  • D06P1/65118—Compounds containing hydroxyl groups
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
  • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
  • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
  • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
  • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
  • D06P5/001—Special chemical aspects of printing textile materials

Definitions

• the present invention concerns the field of textile production. More specifically, it concerns a new process for obtaining new and peculiar surface designs through printing on textile products (fabrics or garments) made of cotton or other natural cellulosic fibers, pure or mixed.
• Textile printing in general terms, consists of applying printing pastes - containing dyes or pigments - to textile products. This step is followed by one or more stabilization steps, comprising physical and/or chemical treatments having the purpose of stably and locally fixing the dying substances.
• stabilization steps comprising physical and/or chemical treatments having the purpose of stably and locally fixing the dying substances.
• the most widely used printing processes are the direct or application printing (using colored pigments or dying substances belonging to various categories of dyes such as direct or substantive dyes, reactive dyes or reduction dyes), the corrosion printing, the resist printing and the thermal transfer printing.
• the printing is not carried out directly on the textile support, but in two steps, firstly printing a support having a perfectly plane and stable surface (release paper) with appropriate colorants, and subsequently transferring the design on the fabric with processes making use of dry heat (sublimation, thermoplasticity), or wet heat (migration, steaming).
• the tension mercerization consists in treating cotton twisted yarns or fabrics with concentrated alkali, in particular conditions of mechanical tension, in order to confer to the products the characteristics already, in part, mentioned: increase of the dye affinity and effectiveness, of the lustre and brightness, improvement in the mechanical properties, modification of the "feel" of the fabrics and increase of elasticity, better dye coverage of dead and/or immature cotton, increase in the dimensional stability of the fabrics when undergoing the maintenance cycles (e.g. the washing cycles).
• the slack mercerization treatments generally applied to fabrics, enhance the elastic behavior of the same, and their dye affinity, without however significantly increasing the lustre.
• the mercerization is sometimes exploited in the printing operations on cotton materials, by using printing pastes containing high concentrations of strong alkali, namely sodium hydroxide, or applying to the textile substrate a strongly alkaline concentrated solution, after that the same substrate has been printed with a resin for resisting to the effect of the alkali.
• a subsequent resting step (known as "relax" step) the printed material is kept at rest for a time variable between 5 and 15 minutes, so that a mercerization effect develops, localized in the areas selectively interested by the alkaline attack (the printed areas in the first case, the non printed ones in the second).
• the resting step involves a significant slowing down of the production speed.
• the mercerization in the resting step creates a final pattern, defined by the mercerized areas, which is not neatly defined, and does not correspond to the one originarily set by the printing matrix.
• the applicant has now surprisingly identified a new process that, improving the aforementioned printing techniques, allows to obtain on the textile material, with shorter productive times, effects of selective, designed mercerization in which the mercerized area have neat and well defined borders, corresponding in a reliable and repeatable way to those set by the printing pattern, so as to attain new aesthetical results, with effects of designed localized creasing (crepon effect) having an outstanding clarity.
• the process according to the invention consists in applying, on products made of cotton or other natural cellulosic products and mixed thereof (in a raw condition or bated without alkali) of printing pastes containing, above and beyond appropriate thickening, wetting and anti-foam agents and a high concentration of strong alkali, moisture conditioning agents (e.g. polyalcohols in general, namely glycerin) for maintaining in the printed areas a moisture level which is sufficient for a mercerization effect to develop.
• moisture conditioning agents e.g. polyalcohols in general, namely glycerin
• the process comprises a first further step in which the printed textile material is dried at a medium-low temperature.
• the drying prevents that the mercerization can start, thus avoiding the migration of the strong alkali from the printed areas to the adjacent ones.
• a certain moisture level due to this, after the drying step and with suitable heating, via a steaming treatment, an actual mercerizing effect can progress and be fixed.
• the textile material undergoes washing (rope or open wide washing) and neutralization steps.
• the printing paste having mercerizing properties can be neutral or colored, but with dyeing substances resisting to strongly alkaline conditions.
• a dye of the product in the mercerized areas can also be carried out in the part of the design pattern not interested by the mercerization, obtaining different colors in the various printing cylinders/screens that are used.
• the process can be applied on textile substrates consisting of woven or knitted fabrics or of manufactured garments, made of raw cotton (pure cotton or mixed with high percentage of raw cotton and fibers resisting to strong alkaline conditions). Said products can even be previously printed fabrics or garments.
• the sequence of the processing steps can be considered, per se, analogous to a conventional printing process. Therefore, first of all there is a preparation step of the printing paste containing the strong alkali, the moisture conditioning agents and the other auxiliary components normally present in the traditional printing pastes. As mentioned, the printing paste can also contain dyeing substances, if resistant to the strong alkali.
• the paste can then be applied with any known method (screen printing - with manual, semi-automatic or automatic systems -, hollow cylinder rotary printing, cylinder or roller printing), with a speed that may vary as a function of the technique that is used and the desired results. Also the penetration of the printing paste can be adjusted as a function of the effect one wishes to obtain.
• the pattern of the printing matrix, and consequently the design that will be defined on the fabric by the areas with different mercerization characteristics, can be of any kind, that is, geometrical, flowery, generally fancy.
• a drying step will follow with hot air drying machines, at medium-low temperature (comprised between about 60°C and 120°C), for the time required for the various printing pastes to dry, reaching such a thickness to stably fix on the fabric (maintaining however a certain moisture level due to the presence of the conditioning agents).
• medium-low temperature typically between about 60°C and 120°C
• the time will vary depending on the kind of fabric and also of the type of machines one has available.
• a steaming step follows, on traditional apparatus known to the skilled person, with process conditions that, as an example, may provide for the use of saturated steam at a temperature comprised between about 95°C and 105°C, for a time of about 10 ⁇ 15 minutes.
• process conditions that, as an example, may provide for the use of saturated steam at a temperature comprised between about 95°C and 105°C, for a time of about 10 ⁇ 15 minutes.
• a final washing and neutralizing step will have the aim of washing away the residuals of strong alkali of the printing paste.
• the washing will also be useful for getting away with the unfixed dyeing substances and/or pigments.
• the washing can be carried put with continuous or discontinuous processes, depending on the devices one has available.
• the temperature and other washing conditions are set as a function of the type of printed textile material and of the device in use. All the above mentioned steps are obviously carried out with apparatus fully known of to the person skilled in the art.
• a preferred preparation of a printing paste with strong alkali is expressed by the following recipe.
• Chronological order Products Amount (/kg of paste) 1 Purified water as needed 2
• Strong alkali e.g. sodium hydroxide - aqueous solution 32%) 500 ⁇ 850 g 3
• Wetting agent e.g. sodium alkane sulfonates with alkyldiols
• Moisture conditioning agent e.g. glycerine 30 ⁇ 50 g
• the use of the wetting agent ensures a correct and homogeneous penetration of the printing paste in the textile substrate.
• the composition thus obtained is slowly agitated and then is added to with a thickening agent, according to the following specifications, so that the paste acquires the suitable thickness in view of the subsequent use.
• Chronological order products Amount (/kg of paste) 5 Thickening agent (e.g. dispersion of acrylic copolymers in light mineral oil) - 35 ⁇ 65 g ALCOLPRINT DT-CS ® (Ciba Specialty Chemicals S.p.A.)
• the mixture is then quickly agitated until the desired viscosity is obtained.
• am exemplifying recipe can be as follows. Chronological order Products Amount (/kg of paste) 1 Purified water as needed 2 Strong alkali (e.g. sodium hydroxide - aqueous solution 32%) 700 ⁇ 850 g 3 Wetting agent (e.g. sodium alkane sulfonates with alkyldiols) 10 ⁇ 15 g INVADINE MR ® (Ciba Specialty Chemicals S.p.A.) 4 Moisture conditioning agent (e.g. glycerin) 100 ⁇ 150 g
• composition thus obtained is slowly agitated and then is added to with a thickening agent, so that the paste acquires the suitable thickness in view of the subsequent use.
• Dyeing substances and relative auxiliary components are also added, according to the following specifications. Chronological order Products Amount (/kg of paste) 5 Thickening agent (e.g. starch) 20 ⁇ 40 g 6 Dyes (e.g. reduction dyes [Indantrene ® ]) e.g. 50 g Pigments 7 Reducing agent (e.g. RONGALITE ® C (BASF AG) e.g. 100 g
• the mixture is then quickly agitated until the desired viscosity is obtained.
• the preparation of the paste will be carried out with the mixing and agitation techniques usual in the field of the textile printing.
• Variants and/or modifications can be brought to the printing process on textile products made of cotton or other natural cellulosic fibers and mixed thereof for obtaining surface designs defined by areas having different mercerization characteristics, and to the textile products thus obtained according to the present invention, without for this reason departing from the scope of protection of the invention itself as defined by the appended claims.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Emergency Medicine (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Coloring (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

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Cited By (4)

Citations (2)

• 2006
  • 2006-09-27 IT ITFI20060236 patent/ITFI20060236A1/it unknown
• 2007
  • 2007-09-18 EP EP07116695A patent/EP1905888A1/fr not_active Withdrawn

Patent Citations (2)

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