EP1827297A1 - Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire - Google Patents

Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire

Info

Publication number
EP1827297A1
EP1827297A1 EP05810721A EP05810721A EP1827297A1 EP 1827297 A1 EP1827297 A1 EP 1827297A1 EP 05810721 A EP05810721 A EP 05810721A EP 05810721 A EP05810721 A EP 05810721A EP 1827297 A1 EP1827297 A1 EP 1827297A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
oil
emulsion according
emulsion
hair treatment
wax
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05810721A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Kelvin Brian Unilever R & D DICKINSON
Anand Ramchandra Unilever R & D MAHADESHWAR
Ruby Loo Bick Unilever R & D TAN WALKER
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unilever PLC
Unilever NV
Original Assignee
Unilever PLC
Unilever NV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever PLC, Unilever NV filed Critical Unilever PLC
Priority to EP05810721A priority Critical patent/EP1827297A1/fr
Publication of EP1827297A1 publication Critical patent/EP1827297A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • This invention relates to water-in-oil emulsions for hair treatment which have enhanced sensory properties and enhanced compatibility with hair benefit agents .
  • Pre wash oiling is done as it is believed that oils nourish hair and protect it during the wash process .
  • Post wash oiling is done for manageability and styling .
  • the oiling habit is widely practised by around 800 million people across the Central Asia and Middle East region .
  • Coconut oil is by far the most common oil used in the Central Asia and Middle East region for hair care . It offers a high level of conditioning benefits , but with the drawback of greasy feel .
  • EP 1289479 discloses hair oils which incorporate a specific blend of oil types (glyceride fatty esters and hydrocarbon oils ) and which can deliver an equivalent level of conditioning benefits to coconut oil, but with superior sensory properties , in particular less greasy feel .
  • hair benefit agents such as hair treatment waxes
  • hair treatment waxes it would be desirable to incorporate hair benefit agents such as hair treatment waxes into such oils , in order to improve the conditioning, manageability and styling behaviour of the hair after application of the product .
  • the present inventors have found that this problem can be solved if a particular type of nonionic emulsifier is formulated with the oil .
  • the invention provides an oil microstructure which has enhanced sensory properties and enhanced compatibility with hair benefit agents such as hair treatment waxes .
  • the present invention provides a water-in-oil emulsion for hair treatment comprising :
  • a first oily component which is one or more glyceride fatty esters
  • a second oily component which is one or more hydrocarbon oils of average carbon chain length less than 20 carbon atoms ;
  • the water-in-oil emulsion of the invention comprises an oil phase comprising a first oily component which is one or more glyceride fatty esters .
  • glyceride fatty esters is meant the mono-, di- f and tri-esters formed between glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C6-C30 carboxylic acids .
  • the carboxylic acids may be saturated or unsaturated or contain hydrophilic groups such as hydroxyl .
  • Preferred glyceride fatty esters are derived from carboxylic acids of carbon chain length ranging from CQ to C2 4 , preferably Cio to C2 2 / most preferably C12 to Ci8 -
  • Suitable glyceride fatty esters for use in emulsions of the invention will generally have a viscosity at ambient temperature (25 to 30 0 C) of from 0.01 to 0.8 Pa . s , preferably from 0.015 to 0.6 Pa . s , more preferably from 0.02 to 0.065 Pa . s as measured by a Carri-Med CSL2 100 controlled stress rheometer, from TA Instruments Inc . , New Castle, Delaware (USA) .
  • a variety of these types of materials are present in vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as camellia oil , coconut oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil , sesame oil, lanolin and soybean oil .
  • camellia oil such as camellia oil , coconut oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil , sesame oil, lanolin and soybean oil .
  • Synthetic oils include trimyristin, triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate .
  • Vegetable derived glyceride fatty esters are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials for inclusion in emulsions of the invention as sources of glyceride fatty esters include almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil , sesame oil, sunflower oil and soybean oil . Coconut oil, sunflower oil, almond oil and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the glyceride fatty ester may be present in emulsions of the invention as a single material or as a blend.
  • the total content of glyceride fatty ester in emulsions of the invention suitably ranges from 10% to 95% , preferably from 20% to 80% , by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion of the invention comprises a second oily component which is one or more hydrocarbon oils of average carbon chain length less than 20 carbon atoms .
  • Suitable hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons , straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons ( saturated or unsaturated) , and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons ( saturated or unsaturated) .
  • Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will typically contain from about 6 to about 16 carbon atoms , preferably from about 8 up to about 14 carbon atoms .
  • Branched chain hydrocarbon oils can and typically may contain higher numbers of carbon atoms , e . g . from about 6 up to about 20 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 up to about 18 carbon atoms .
  • Suitable hydrocarbon oils will generally have a viscosity at ambient temperature (25 to 3O 0 C) of from 0.0001 to 0.5 Pa . s , preferably from 0.001 to 0.05 Pa . s, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.02 Pa . s as measured by a Carri-Med CSL2 100 controlled stress rheometer, from TA Instruments Inc . , New Castle, Delaware (USA) .
  • a preferred hydrocarbon oil is light mineral oil .
  • Mineral oils are clear oily liquids obtained from petroleum oil, from which waxes have been removed, and the more volatile fractions removed by distillation .
  • the fraction distilling between 250°C to 300°C is termed mineral oil, and it consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons, in which the number of carbon atoms per hydrocarbon molecule generally ranges from Cio to
  • Mineral oil may be characterised in terms of its viscosity, where light mineral oil is relatively less viscous than heavy mineral oil, and these terms are defined more specifically in the U . S . Pharmacopoeia, 22nd revision, p . 899 ( 1990 ) .
  • a commercially available example of a suitable light mineral oil for use in the invention is
  • Sirius M40 carbon chain length Cio-C28 r mainly C ⁇ - ⁇ Or viscosity 4.3 x 10 Pa . s) , available from Silkolene .
  • linear saturated hydrocarbons such as a tetradecane, hexadecane, and octadecane
  • cyclic hydrocarbons such as dioctylcyclohexane (e . g . CETIOL S from Henkel)
  • branched chain hydrocarbons e . g . ISOPAR L and ISOPAR V from Exxon Corp . ) .
  • the hydrocarbon oil may be present in emulsions of the invention as a single material or as a blend.
  • the total content of hydrocarbon oil in emulsions of the invention suitably ranges from 5% to 90% , preferably from 20% to 80%, by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • the glyceride fatty ester : hydrocarbon oil weight ratio in emulsions of the invention may suitably range from 90 : 10 to 10 : 90 , preferably from 80 : 20 to 20 : 80 , more preferably from 60 : 40 to 40 : 60.
  • Particularly preferred are blends of [coconut oil and/or sunflower oil and/or almond oil] and light mineral oil, in which the [coconut oil and/or sunflower oil and/or almond oil] : light mineral oil weight ratio is about 50 : 50.
  • the hydrophilic phase of the water-in-oil emulsion of the invention comprises water, suitably at a level of from about 2% by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • the water level does not exceed about 10% by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • the water level ranges from 3 to 7% , more preferably from 4 to 6% by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • the water-in-oil emulsion of the invention comprises a nonionic emulsifier which is an ethoxylated alcohol having an HLB of at least 6.
  • Suitable ethoxylated alcohols are commercially available and include the primary aliphatic alcohol ethoxylates and secondary aliphatic alcohol ethoxylates .
  • the length of the polyethenoxy chain can be adjusted to achieve the desired balance between the hydrophobic and hydrophilic elements .
  • the HLB value of the ethoxylated alcohol suitably ranges from 6 to 12 , preferably from 7 to 10, more preferably from 7 to 9.
  • Suitable ethoxylated alcohols include the condensation products of a higher alcohol (e . g . , an alkanol containing about 8 to 16 carbon atoms in a straight or branched chain configuration) condensed with about 2.5 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide .
  • a higher alcohol e . g . , an alkanol containing about 8 to 16 carbon atoms in a straight or branched chain configuration
  • Neodol ethoxylates (Shell Co . ) , which are higher aliphatic, primary alcohols containing about 9 to 15 carbon atoms condensed with about 2.5 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide .
  • Neodol 91-8 or Neodol 91- 5 Specific examples are C9 to 11 alkanol condensed with 2.5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide (Neodol 91-8 or Neodol 91- 5 ) , C12 to 13 alkanol condensed with 3 moles ethylene oxide (Neodol 23-3 ) , C12 to 15 alkanol condensed with 12 moles ethylene oxide (Neodol 25-12 ) , C14 to 15 alkanol condensed with 13 moles ethylene oxide (Neodol 45-13 ) , and the like .
  • Such ethoxylates have an HLB (hydrophobic lipophilic balance) value of about 7 to 10. Most preferred is Neodol 23-3 , with an HLB of about 8.
  • the level of nonionic emulsifier in emulsions of the invention suitably ranges from 10 to 40% , preferably from 15 to 35%, by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • the water-in-oil emulsion of the invention comprises dispersed particles of a hair treatment wax.
  • Suitable waxes are hydrophobic materials with a water solubility of less than O . Olg/1 at room temperature (25 °C) .
  • Suitable waxes have a melting point in the range of from 30 0 C to 150 0 C, preferably from 40 °C to 100 0 C, more preferably from 45 0 C to 8O 0 C .
  • Suitable waxes may be selected from naturally occurring waxes , synthetic hydrocarbon waxes , synthetic silicone waxes and mixtures thereof .
  • Naturally occurring waxes may be obtained directly or indirectly from natural plant, animal or mineral sources , for example waxes obtained by the hydrogenation of vegetable oil, animal fats and oils and natural waxes from plants .
  • Waxes may contain substantially one chemical compound or a mixture of chemical compounds and can be used singly or as a mixture of two or more different waxes .
  • suitable waxes are those based on hydrogenated vegetable oil, candelilla wax (extracted from the candelilla plant) carnauba wax (extracted from the palm tree carnauba) , silicone-urethane copolymers , cotton wax, bayberry wax, Chinese wax, spermaceti, montan wax, rice bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate or other lanolin esters and/or ethers , sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, j oj oba wax, shellac, paraffin wax, cholesterol, hydrogenated castor oil, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, cocoa butter and the like, optionally hydrogenated where this is not already specified and where this is appropriate in order to increase the melting point of the wax so that it lies in a suitable range as described above .
  • suitable waxes are microcrystalline wax, beeswax and silicone-urethane copolymers .
  • microcrystalline wax is generally meant a refined mixture of solid, saturated hydrocarbons , mainly branched paraffin, obtained from petroleum.
  • beeswax it is intended to include natural beeswax obtained from honeycombs in either an unpurified or preferably purified state and synthetic and substitute beeswax, as well as beeswax that has been modified, for example organically modified.
  • synthetic and substitute beeswax includes substances that have similar properties to those of natural beeswax .
  • Suitable organically modified beeswaxes include, for example, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglycerol-3 beeswax and siliconized beeswax such as dimethicone copolyol beeswax .
  • a suitable example of a silicone-urethane copolymer is a polydimethylsiloxane-polypropylene glycol ether/isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI ) copolymer .
  • IPDI polydimethylsiloxane-polypropylene glycol ether/isophorone diisocyanate
  • Such a material is marketed under the name Polyderm PPI-SI-WI by Alzo Inc .
  • the total amount of hair treatment wax in emulsions of the invention suitably ranges from 0.5 to 7% , preferably from 1.5 to 6% , by weight based on total weight of the emulsion .
  • a preferred process for preparing a water-in-oil emulsion according to the present invention comprises the following steps :
  • compositions of this invention are preferably for application directly to the hair in neat form, either before or after shampooing . Accordingly the invention also provides a method of treating hair comprising the step of applying a water-in-oil emulsion as described above directly to the hair as a pre-wash treatment or as a post-wash treatment .
  • Compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normally used in hair treatment formulations .
  • These other ingredients may include preservatives such as phenoxetol® (2-phenoxyethanol) , colouring agents , antioxidants such as BHT (butylhydroxytoluene) , fragrances and antimicrobials such as Glycacil-L ® (iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) .
  • preservatives such as phenoxetol® (2-phenoxyethanol)
  • colouring agents such as BHT (butylhydroxytoluene)
  • fragrances such as Glycacil-L ® (iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)
  • Glycacil-L ® iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
  • Water-in-oil emulsions containing hair treatment waxes were prepared, having ingredients as shown in the following Table :
  • the sunflower oil and light mineral oil were blended with the wax ingredient, and the blend so obtained was heated to 65 degrees C to melt the wax .
  • the NEODOL 23-3 was then added, followed by the water .
  • the resulting formulations were milky water-in-oil emulsions . Comparative evaluations of the above formulations according to the invention were carried out using a control formulation of 50wt% Sirius M40 and 50wt% sunflower oil .
  • Half of the hair of a mannequin head was oiled with the control formulation and the other half with the test ' formulation (Example 1 , 2 or 3 respectively) . 2.0ml of formulation was used to oil the individual half head. After one hour the mannequin head was assessed by an expert salon hairdresser .
  • Example 1 Compared to the control , the formulation of Example 1 gave significantly (>99% ) better hair body and significantly (>90% ) better hair conditioning .
  • the formulation of Example 1 gave significantly (>99% ) better hair body and significantly (>90% ) better hair conditioning .
  • Example 2 Compared to the control , the formulation of Example 2 gave significantly (>95% ) better hair body and significantly , (>90% ) better hair conditioning.
  • the formulation of Example 2 gave significantly (>95% ) better hair body and significantly , (>90% ) better hair conditioning.
  • Example 3 Compared to the control, the formulation of Example 3 gave significantly (>90% ) better hair conditioning and significantly (>90% ) reduced hair sticky feel . The formulation of Example 3 was also found to have significantly (>90% ) reduced product sticky feel compared to the control .
  • Example 1 Compared to the control, the formulation of Example 1 gave significantly (>90% ) better hair conditioning and significantly (>95% ) better hair shine .
  • Example 2 Compared to the control , the formulation of Example 2 gave significantly (>95% ) better hair conditioning . Compared to the control, the formulation of Example 3 gave significantly (>90% ) better hair body, significantly (>90% ) better hair conditioning and significantly (>90% ) better hair shine .

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une émulsion eau-dans-huile de traitement capillaire, qui comprend: (a) une phase huileuse comprenant: (i) un premier composant huileux constitué d'un ou plusieurs esters glycérides d'acide gras, et (ii) un second composant huileux constitué d'une ou plusieurs huiles hydrocarbonées présentant une longueur moyenne de chaîne de carbone inférieure à 20 atomes de carbone; (b) une phase hydrophile comprenant: (i) de l'eau, (ii) un émulsifiant non ionique qui est un alcool éthoxylé possédant un HLB d'au moins 6, et (c) des particules dispersées d'une cire de traitement capillaire.
EP05810721A 2004-12-23 2005-11-07 Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire Withdrawn EP1827297A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP05810721A EP1827297A1 (fr) 2004-12-23 2005-11-07 Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP04258091 2004-12-23
PCT/EP2005/011973 WO2006066656A1 (fr) 2004-12-23 2005-11-07 Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire
EP05810721A EP1827297A1 (fr) 2004-12-23 2005-11-07 Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1827297A1 true EP1827297A1 (fr) 2007-09-05

Family

ID=34930965

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05810721A Withdrawn EP1827297A1 (fr) 2004-12-23 2005-11-07 Emulsions eau-dans-huile pour traitement capillaire

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20080311062A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1827297A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP5372379B2 (fr)
MX (1) MX2007007747A (fr)
WO (1) WO2006066656A1 (fr)

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US20120219518A1 (en) * 2011-02-24 2012-08-30 Gina Serra Healing House of Isis Hair and Skin Formulation
CN107106473B (zh) * 2014-12-26 2021-02-19 高露洁-棕榄公司 口腔护理产品及其使用和制造方法
EP3294258B1 (fr) * 2015-05-11 2020-03-18 Unilever PLC Composition d'hygiène personnelle liquide
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FR3125412A1 (fr) * 2021-07-21 2023-01-27 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques pour les cheveux

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP5372379B2 (ja) 2013-12-18
US20080311062A1 (en) 2008-12-18
JP2008525329A (ja) 2008-07-17
WO2006066656A1 (fr) 2006-06-29
MX2007007747A (es) 2007-08-14

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