EP1800119A2 - Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques comprenant des substances actives qui ameliorent la perception sensorielle - Google Patents

Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques comprenant des substances actives qui ameliorent la perception sensorielle

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Publication number
EP1800119A2
EP1800119A2 EP05792768A EP05792768A EP1800119A2 EP 1800119 A2 EP1800119 A2 EP 1800119A2 EP 05792768 A EP05792768 A EP 05792768A EP 05792768 A EP05792768 A EP 05792768A EP 1800119 A2 EP1800119 A2 EP 1800119A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
extract
weight
skin
substances
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP05792768A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas Döring
Anemone TRÄGER
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Barbara Heide
Armin Wadle
Gabriele Weser
Olaf HOLTKÖTTER
Ullrich Bernecker
Adolf Peter Barth
Wilfried Howorka
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE102004050563A external-priority patent/DE102004050563A1/de
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1800119A2 publication Critical patent/EP1800119A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A61K8/492—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid having condensed rings, e.g. indol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q11/00—Preparations for care of the teeth, of the oral cavity or of dentures; Dentifrices, e.g. toothpastes; Mouth rinses
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

  • compositions with active ingredients for improving sensory perception are provided.
  • the invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a combination of at least one extract of cocoa (Theobroma cacao), at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) and at least one other selected cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.
  • a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier a combination of at least one extract of cocoa (Theobroma cacao), at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) and at least one other selected cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.
  • the invention relates to the use of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theo ⁇ bromoma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) in topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions for improving the sensory perception and skin compatibility of these Zu ⁇ compositions, to increase the well-being of the treated person, to relax the skin, to soothe sensitive skin, to stimulate and revitalize tired and / or sagging skin and to reduce itching and irritation of the skin.
  • oral and dental care and cleaning agents are oral and tooth powders, oral and toothpastes, liquid mouth and tooth creams, oral and dental gels as well as impregnating compositions for dental floss and toothpicks
  • oral and dental care and cleaning agents are present, for example, in the form of toothpastes, liquid toothpastes, toothpowders, mouthwashes or optionally also as chewing gum, for example as chewing gum, but are preferably in the form of more or less flowable or plastic toothpastes as they are used to clean the teeth using a toothbrush.
  • Topical compositions containing agents that stimulate keratinocyte ⁇ -endorphin secretion are known in the art, e.g. WO 02/03945 A1, WO 2004/058282 A2, FR 2842201 A1 and FR 2774292 A1. It is further known from FR 2842201 A1 that an extract from the pods of cocoa beans, obtainable under the trade name Caobromine from Solabia, stimulates the ⁇ -endorphin release of keratinocytes. Furthermore, it is known in the prior art that the ⁇ -endorphin release of the keratinocytes also influences the peripheral nerve cells.
  • One object of the present invention was to provide topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing the ⁇ -endorphin secretion of keratinocyte-stimulating active ingredients with optimized activity. Another object of the present invention was to develop new uses for ⁇ -endorphin secretion of keratinocyte stimulating agents.
  • compositions for improving sensory perception and skin tolerance can be used to increase the well-being of the treated person, to relax the skin, to soothe sensitive skin, to stimulate and revitalize tired and / or sagging skin and to reduce itching and irritation of the skin.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological / pharmaceutical compositions
  • cosmetic or dermatological / pharmaceutical compositions comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological / pharmaceutical carrier, at least one extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita) and at least one further cosmetic active substance which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, natural betaine compounds, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids, ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids, and is
  • a further subject of the present application are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions for oral and dental hygiene, containing in a suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical carrier at least one extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) and at least one further cosmetic active ingredient selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and / or nonionic surfactants,
  • composition additionally comprises one or more substances from the group of - humectants
  • Thickener Dirt-dissolving or dispersing polymers; contains.
  • Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic kosme ⁇ tables use of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theo broma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) in a topical application and Oral and dental hygiene application to certain cosmetic or dermatological / pharmaceutical carriers
  • Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic kosme ⁇ tables use of at least one drug for stimulating the ß-endorphin secretion of keratinocytes in a topical, deodorizing and / or antiperspirant application in the forearm and / or oral and Zahn ⁇ hygiene application certain cosmetic or dermatologischen / pharmaceutical carrier for
  • An inventively particularly preferred mixture of an extract from the Boh ⁇ NEN of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and an extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) is the raw material Caomint from Solabia.
  • Another particularly preferred active ingredient according to the invention which stimulates ⁇ -endorphin secretion in keratinocytes is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyl decyl ester, obtainable, for example, as an aqueous preparation as raw material calmosensine (INCI name Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester) from Sederma.
  • Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate ⁇ -endorphin release in keratinocytes are extracts from the shells of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao), for example obtainable as raw material caobromines, cao-orange, caospice and caophenol from Solabia.
  • agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate ⁇ -endorphin secretion in keratinocytes are selected from: extracts from Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade names ArEAUmat Perpetua (INCI: Water, Helichrysum italicum extract) and AxEAUmat Perpe tua Glycerine (INCI: Glycerol, Water, Helichrysum italicum extract) by Codif, Extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, e.g. B.
  • ArEAUmat Samphira (Sea Fennel, INCI: Water, Crithmum Maritimum Extract) and Aro- leat Samphira (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable OiI, Crithum Maritimum Extract) from Codif, extracts from Lavandula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade names ArEAUmat Lavanda (INCI: Water, Lavandula stoechas extract) and ArEAUmat Lavanda (INCl: Glycerol, Water, Lavandula stoechas extract) from Codif, extracts from Mentha piperita, z. B.
  • Tephroline available under the trade name Tephroline (INCI: Water, Propylene Glycol, Tephrosia purpurea seed extract) from the company Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI Mentha Arvensis Leaf OiI and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel OiI and Cupressus Sempervirens OiI and Lavandula Hybrida OiI and Cistus Ladaniferus OiI, z. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefosse), hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201, and any mixtures of these agents.
  • V-Tonic Garnier
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one active substance which stimulates ⁇ -endorphin release in keratinocytes is present in a total amount of 0.000001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.00001 to 5 to 10% by weight. -%, particularly preferably at least 0.0001 - 1 to 2 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 0.005 - 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total cosmetic composition containing is.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract from the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC 2 - C 24 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances.
  • the monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine , Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate , Sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decano
  • the C 2 -C 24 -acyl radical with which the amino acids, in particular the named preferred amino acids, are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, Octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical.
  • Mixtures of C 8 -C 18 acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.
  • the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group.
  • a preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C 2 -C 22 -fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift PDHP available from the company Seppic.
  • the physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred amino acids or amino acid derivatives are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.
  • amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids.
  • the oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be acylated and / or esterified.
  • amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce, or are capable of, repair processes in the tissue via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis To bind the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-ß (tissue growth facto ⁇ , which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts.
  • TSP-1 thrombospondin I
  • TGF-ß tissue growth facto ⁇
  • N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg.
  • acetyl-citrullyl-arginine eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine
  • Tyr-Arg dipeptide-1
  • Val- Trp dipeptide-2
  • Asn-Phe As
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, the z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL of Sederma er ⁇ is available, but (in acylated form) also is a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma
  • the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as the copper salt (Cu 2+ ) and can be obtained as such from ProCyte Corporation.
  • Gly in accordance with the invention is suitable for Ala, Leu and He
  • the preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain having a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline Tripeptide is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, the z. B. under the designation Collasyn 314-GR of Therapeutic Peptide Inc.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides.
  • Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.
  • Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. under the name Eyeliss of Sederma is available, but also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma represents.
  • the Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg.
  • At least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably the tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary.
  • the substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid which is defined below.
  • Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapeptides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, wherein Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.
  • the preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He).
  • the preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.
  • the preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.
  • Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred as Rigin analogues.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. ⁇ -Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group which is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg GIn, Asn, Lys, Om, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and Cana ⁇ vanin. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g.
  • ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.
  • N-acylated and / or esterified pentapep tides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which is available under the name Matrixyl from the company Sederma, furthermore N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, VaI-Val-Arg-Pro -Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyl-oxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors to inhibit desquamation).
  • N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.
  • Hexapeptide-5 also referred to as Biopeptide EL from Sederma, eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-5 eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-6 eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI
  • hexapeptide-8 eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-8 eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI
  • hexapeptide-9 eg Collaxyl from Vincience
  • hexapeptide-10 eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec
  • Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp hexapeptide-1
  • acetyl hexapeptide-1 e.g., modulene from Vincience
  • hexapeptide-4 e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)
  • hexapeptide-5 e.g.
  • Collasyn 6VY from TPI myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine Trp (hexapeptide- 7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care).
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-5 eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI
  • myristoyl hexapeptide-6
  • An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z.
  • Vinci 01 by Vincience Pentadecapeptide-1
  • Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistin from exsymol).
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.
  • the polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are z. Elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts.
  • preferred are vegetable protein hydrolysates, z. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates.
  • Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ® (Diamalt) Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • soy protein hydrolysates e.g., the commercial products Phytokine from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab.
  • protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is normally not defined.
  • acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates z.
  • Corresponding commercial products are z.
  • Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® ® or Crotein (Croda).
  • cationic protein hydrolysates are also preferred according to the invention. Particular preference is given to cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives used according to the invention some of those mentioned under the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Washington, DC) and commercially available products listed: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / myristyl ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.
  • the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.
  • DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. Under DNA By definition, repair is the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.
  • Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3.
  • a particularly effi ⁇ tient photolyase comes from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism.
  • the photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.
  • the enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the ctenV gene of the bacteriophage T4 and is one of the phosphodiesterases that hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ⁇ -3 " ) bond T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.
  • Liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes are commercially available for. B. under the Pro ⁇ duktberace Photosome TM, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome TM from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the raw materials Photosome TM or Ultrasome TM in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1 , 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances in a total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • the monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances are present in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, pulverulent substrates such as silica gel , in particular Aerosil types, talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones.
  • a particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.
  • particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic active substance which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC 2 -C 24 -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-2% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-1% by weight and exceptionally preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the content of Aktivsub ⁇ dance in the entire composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or an RNA oligonucleotide in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita).
  • an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges.
  • the nucleotides be ⁇ from nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid.
  • the mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).
  • CMP cytidine 5'-monophosphate
  • UDP uridine 5'-diphosphate
  • ATP adenosine 5'-triphosphate
  • GTP guanosine 5'-triphosphate
  • An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or RNA oligonucleotide in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.001-1.0 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.01 - 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one natural betaine compound in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita).
  • Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R 3 N + -CH 2 -X-COO " according to ILJPAC Rule C-816.1, so-called betaine surfactants (synthetic surfactants).
  • other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge is formally O, S, B or C, but which do not conform to the IUPAC rule C) are not included in the betaine compounds used according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B. , C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate into consideration.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain the at least one vitamin A component in a total amount of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
  • Vitamin Bi trivial name thiamine, chemical designation 3 - [(4 '-amino-2' -methyl- 5 '-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride.
  • Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin B 2 trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10H) -dione.
  • riboflavin or its derivatives are used in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin B 3 Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. According to the invention, preference is given to the nicotinic acid amide contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • Panthenol is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • derivatives of 2-furanone instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).
  • the substuents R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or one or two or more unsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or di- 2 unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Merck), 3 , 3-dimethyl-2-hydroxy- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers.
  • the extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R 1 represents a hydro- xyl group, R 2 is a hydrogen atom, R 3 and R 4 are a methyl group and R 5 and R 6 are a hydrogen atom.
  • R 1 represents a hydro- xyl group
  • R 2 is a hydrogen atom
  • R 3 and R 4 are a methyl group
  • R 5 and R 6 are a hydrogen atom.
  • the stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type and the 2-furanone derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0, 5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin B 6 which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols.
  • Vitamin B 6 is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • Vitamin B 7 also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin”. Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-of] -irnidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the vitamin C group includes vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives, in particular the esters of ascorbic acid with organic and inorganic acids and their salts, and also the acetals with glucose or other sugars, in particular ascorbyl glucoside. Vitamin C and / or at least one of its derivatives is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred.
  • the use of at least one member of the vitamin C group in combination with tocopherols and / or other members of the vitamin E group may also be preferred.
  • the vitamin E group includes tocopherol, in particular ⁇ -tocopherol, and its derivatives.
  • Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in a total amount of 0.05 - 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B 7 (see above).
  • the fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K 1 ), farno- quinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K 3 ).
  • Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin A palmitate (Retinylpa Imitat), panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, in particular tocopheryl acetate , are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention in particular those for oral and dental hygiene, comprising in a suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical carrier at least one extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao), at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) and at least one other cosmetic Active ingredient selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and / or nonionic surfactants and from active ingredients for the prevention of calculus formation, are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned Substan ⁇ zen in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt .-% and in particular of 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester- , Lactone or salt form.
  • suitable ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxy hexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-octadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, Gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.
  • Particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
  • the esters of said acids are preferably selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid and / or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid and / or at least one derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0 , 5-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the ⁇ lycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones.
  • flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin, ⁇ -glucosyl-cerecetin, hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 '-methoxyflavanone-7-rharnoglucoside, hesperitin-7-o-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (S.S''''JJ-pentahydroxyflavone-S-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5 Dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-0- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) - ⁇ -D-glucopyranoside)
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the flavonoid active substance in the total composition is included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.
  • isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.
  • the isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin.
  • isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
  • the isoflavones are glycosidically linked to at least one sugar via at least one hydroxy group.
  • Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.
  • the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a vegetable extract.
  • a vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained, for example, by pressing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from the soybean seeds, red clover or chickpeas, in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art.
  • Particular preference is given to using isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soya-derived extracts in the preparations according to the invention, as used, for example, under the Product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St.
  • apple seed extract contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one isoflavonoid and / or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoiditsubstanz in the entire composition is included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one polyphenol and / or at least one polyphenol-rich plant extract.
  • polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, as well as phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene.
  • free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acyl polyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives , Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechols, usnic acid, and tannins are the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid.
  • Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation.
  • Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance but as extracts of tannin-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.
  • a particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic.
  • a further A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, obtainable from Croda.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one polyphenol and / or at least one polyphenol-rich plant extract are present in a total amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, in each case based on the Polyphe- noleptsubstanz in the entire composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances , Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones.
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):
  • ubiquinone of formula (II) with n 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt. % and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita).
  • silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance.
  • the main constituents of the silymarin are silybin (silymarin 1), silychristine (silymarin II) and silydianin, which are described in US Pat Group of Flavanolignane belong.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that silymarin is used in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, is included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain ectoin in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita).
  • Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that ectoine in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the entire Zusam ⁇ composition, is included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one repellent, that is, an insect repellent.
  • N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide is referred to as the best all-round repellent. It has a defense against mosquitoes, brakes, sandflies, ticks, biting flies, mites, fleas and bedbugs, with the duration of action - as with all repellent agents - varying in length compared to the different species.
  • Commercially available DEET preparations for example, are effective against mosquitoes for about 6 to 8 hours, but only for about 2 to 4 hours against ticks.
  • repellent active ingredient is 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester (also referred to as repellent 3535).
  • Repellent 3535 is effective against mosquitoes (Aedes aegypti, Anopheles albimmanus), tsetse flies (Glossinae) and brakes (Tabanidae).
  • Further used lent is dimethylphthalate (Palatinol M, DMP), which is effective against mosquitoes (especially Aedes and Anopheles species), lice, ticks and mites, but vorwie ⁇ ing used in combination with other repellent agents.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.
  • the UV filter substances are liquids which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again.
  • the UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
  • the organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, mono ⁇ mers and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonklareestern and -carbonklareamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonklam, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components.
  • the organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • the benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester Ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), salicylic acid-2 ethylhexyl
  • Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCl designation phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No.
  • UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ® 1789) can for example be different in ver ⁇ UV Make -B filters.
  • compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter from 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and SS ⁇ -trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio being between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.
  • the inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck).
  • Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, more preferably 1.0-10% by weight. % and most preferably 2 or 3 - 7 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-5% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one self-tanning active ingredient.
  • Self-tanning active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one -10% by weight, especially preferably 1, 0 to 5 wt .-% and most preferably 2 to 4 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one skin-lightening agent.
  • Skin-lightening active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C 2 -C 20 -carboxylic acids and their alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry tree extract and silage extract and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance as well as in mixture preferred the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-lightening active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), at least one skin-soothing active ingredient.
  • Skin-soothing active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, ⁇ -bisabolol, ⁇ -lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one moisturizing active ingredient.
  • moisturizing active ingredients are selected from deoxy, particularly preferably Rham nose and fucose, polysaccharides, which hold at least one deoxysugar block ent, particularly preferably the commercial product Fucogel ®, urea, (2-hydroxyethyl) - urea, glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.
  • compositions of the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient.
  • Sebum-regulating active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol, which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.1-0.5% by weight, based in each case on the active substance content in the entire composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), at least one mechanical exfoliating agent or exfoliating body.
  • the cosmetic skin peeling for pore-deep cleansing of the skin can occasionally be perceived as unpleasant by the user.
  • Preferred mechanical exfoliating agents or peeling bodies according to the invention are selected from ground plant parts such as almond bran or wheat bran, crystalline cellulose, hardened jojoba oil (jojoba beads), polymer beads, preferably of polyethylene or nylon-11, with average diameters of 90-600 ⁇ m and of active substance-containing micro or milli capsules containing petrochemical polymers (eg of polyamide such as nylon-11) and / or biopolymers such as gelatin, pectin, vegetable gums, alginates and carrageenan.
  • petrochemical polymers eg of polyamide such as nylon-11
  • biopolymers such as gelatin, pectin, vegetable gums, alginates and carrageenan.
  • Almond bran, wheat bran, hardened jojoba oil and polymer beads, in particular polyethylene beads are preferably used as peeling substances.
  • active ingredient-containing micro- or milli ⁇ capsules are also preferred.
  • the commercial capsules are often referred to as aqueous polymer dispersion before, for example, the particularly preferred Millicapsules ® Lipotec SA (INCI name: Aqua, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerine, carbomer, Sebacic Acid, agar, Green colourant, Alginic Acid).
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise mechanical exfoliation agents or exfoliating bodies in a total amount of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, in each case entire composition according to the invention.
  • a further subject matter of the present application is the use of at least one active substance for stimulating the ⁇ -endorphin release of keratinocytes in a cosmetic or dermatological / pharmaceutical carrier intended for topical deodorizing and / or antiperspirant application in the forearm.
  • a further subject matter of the present application is the use of at least one active substance for stimulating the ⁇ -endorphin release of keratinocytes in a cosmetic or dermatological / pharmaceutical carrier intended for topical deodorising and / or antiperspirant application in the forearm for stimulating the ß-endorphin secretion of keratinocytes is selected from mixtures of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester, extracts from the shells of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao), extracts from Helichrysum italicum, extracts from Crithmum maritimum, glutamylamidoethylindole and extracts from Tephrosia purpurea.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to at least one active substance for stimulating the ⁇ -endorphin release of keratinocytes, in particular in addition to the mixture of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves of Peppermint (Mentha piperita) at least one desodo ⁇ ing and / or antiperspirant active ingredient.
  • Deodorants and antiperspirants are mainly used in the armpit area. The skin in the forearm area is thinner and thus more sensitive than the facial skin, so the application of deodorants and antiperspirants, especially with regular use, can be perceived as unpleasant or even lead to skin irritation. In combination with agents that stimulate ß-endorphin release, it can not only make the application experience and skin feel more comfortable, but also unexpectedly improve skin tolerance.
  • Deodorizing agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from odor adsorbers, deodorizing ion exchangers, germ-inhibiting agents, prepubically active components and also enzyme inhibitors or, particularly preferred, combinations of said active substances.
  • Preferred odor absorbers are selected from silicates, particularly preferably according to the invention especially layered silicates, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, hit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talc, furthermore zeolites, zinc trinoleate, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one odor absorber in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-7% by weight and in particular 1-5% by weight, in each case bezo ⁇ gene on the composition included.
  • the germ-inhibiting or antimicrobial active substances disclosed as deodorizing agents can be used not only in deodorant compositions, but also in antimicrobial cosmetic compositions, for example antimicrobial hand cleansing agents or creams, in oral and dental hygiene compositions or for the preservation of cosmetic compositions.
  • Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds.
  • chlorophyllin copper complexes ⁇ -monoalkyl glycerol ether with a ver ⁇ branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 6 - C 22 alkyl, particularly preferably ⁇ - (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol, commercially available as Sensiva ® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerine (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil).
  • Sensiva ® SC 50 ex Schülke & Mayr
  • carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerine eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate
  • lantibiotics and plant extracts eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil.
  • deodorizing active compounds are selected from so-called prebiotic active ingredients, which include according to the invention those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing microorganisms of the cutaneous microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odoriferous components Germs.
  • prebiotic active ingredients include according to the invention those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing microorganisms of the cutaneous microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odoriferous components Germs.
  • active ingredients which are disclosed in DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 as prebiotically effective, also included.
  • deodorizing active ingredients are selected from the germ-inhibiting perfume oils and the Deosafe perfume oils which are obtainable from Symrise, formerly Haarmann and Reimer.
  • the enzyme inhibitors include substances which inhibit the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular the arylsulfatase, ⁇ -glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxygenase, eg. B. Trialkylcitronen yarnreester, insbe ⁇ special triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one deodorizing active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-7% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3-5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 0.4 to 1.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of Alumini ⁇ ums, zirconium and zinc or any mixtures of these salts.
  • Preferred antiperspirant active compounds are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al 2 (OH) 5 Cl.
  • n which are present in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form may further, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or -PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, further selected from the Aluminiumzirconiumchlorhydraten, such as Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrat, niumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrat aluminum, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrat, niumoctachlorhydrat Aluminiumzirco-, the aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes, such as AIu- miniumzirconiumtrichlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrexglycin, niumzirconiumpentachlorhydrexglycin aluminum, Aluminiumzirconiumoctach
  • the composition comprises an astringent aluminum salt, especially aluminum chlorohydrate which beispiels ⁇ in powder form as Micro Dry ® Ultrafine from Reheis, in the form of an aqueous solution as Locron ® L from Clariant, as Chlorhydrol ® as well as in activated form as Reach ® 501 is sold by Reheis. Under the name Reach ® 301 Aluminiumses- is quichlorohydrat from Reheis offered.
  • the use of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine complexes which are, for example, by Reheis under the Bezeich ⁇ voltage Rezal ® 36G commercially, can be inventively particularly preferred.
  • solubility of at least 5% by weight is understood to mean at 20 0 C, solubility in water, that is, amounts of at least 5 g of the Antitranspi- rant-active substance in 95 g water at 20 0 C are soluble.
  • the antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as aqueous solutions.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one antiperspirant active ingredient in a total amount of 3 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 22% by weight and in particular 10 to 20% by weight, based on the amount of the active substance in the overall composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract from the leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita), at least one anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactant.
  • Surfactants are an essential component of many cosmetic compositions, in particular of agents for skin and hair cleaning, oral and dental hygiene, in particular for cleaning teeth, skin and hair conditioning, other hair treatment agents such as hair styling, permanent wave, hair straightening and bleaching and hair colorations, the other shaving and depilation agents and forearm products.
  • surfactants interfere with the lipid balance of the skin, scalp or oral mucosa.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise surface-active substances which, depending on the field of use, are surfactants or emulsifiers, selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups it is possible for glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups to be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C Atoms (soaps),
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) X -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 Kohlenstoffato ⁇ men and O, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium
  • acylglutamates derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C 12/14 - or Ci 2/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula
  • X H or a -CH 2 COOR group
  • R, R 1 and R 2 are independent each represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a Z radical derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) alkyl polysaccharides 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 6 ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R 1 or R 2 is a radical Z,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on C 8-22 FeOlkOhoIe, esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of the general formula (III),
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) X -OSO 3 H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x O or 1-12, mixed hydroxysulfonate surfactants according to DE-A-37 25 030,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, a Alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R 7 CO ( AIkO) n SO 3 M (EI-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total O, or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal
  • Typical examples in the sense monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoclylide and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - amide-ether carboxylic acids,
  • Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which condensates in the art as Ei dressingfettklare ⁇ are known, such as Lamepon ® grades, Gluadin ® grades, Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acylsarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds
  • the Particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical is selected, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or the salts of these acids ren with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCl Name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-Glucoside Sulfosuccinates, alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 8 t> is 18 C atoms in the
  • Preferred anionic surfactants in particular for compositions for oral and dental hygiene or for hair and / or body cleansing, are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ethersulfate and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylene esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethylene groups, glyceride monoglycerides, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO H or -SO 3 H group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitter ⁇ ionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant
  • Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyl-iminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminoprop
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. Legs
  • Polyglycol ether Such compounds are, for example
  • Polyol fatty (partial) ester as Hydagen ® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® grades (Cognis), especially of saturated C 8-3 o-fatty acids, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (E4-I)
  • R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linea ⁇ re or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w for numbers of 1 to 20, amine oxides, hydroxy mixed ethers,
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • sol ⁇ che alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside are preferred whose Oligomermaschinesgraci is less than 1, 7 and in particular between 1, 2 and 1, 4.
  • the alkyl or alkynyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can furthermore also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, which can be obtained as described above.
  • Particular preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides in which R
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding n oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • the alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • phospholipids e.g. B. lecithins or phosphatidylcholines
  • polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydro- xystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH) or Triglycerindiisostearat (Lameform ® TGI),
  • R 5 CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or those of technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycine as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight and most preferably from 1 to 7.5% by weight, based in each case on the total Composition, be included.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the preparation of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • Preferred nonionic surface-active substances are the alkylpolyglycosides, optionally mixed with fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.
  • cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the abovementioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • QAV QAV with behenyl radicals
  • behentrimonium chloride or bromide doosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide
  • Other preferred QAV's have at least two behenyl residues, with QAV being particularly preferred, which are two behenyl residues on an imidazolinium backbone.
  • Commercially available Sub ⁇ this are punching, for example, under the names Genamin ® KDMP (Clariant) and Crodazosoft DBQ ® (Croda).
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Be-products such Pro ⁇ example, under the trademark Stepantex ®, Dehyquart ® and Armocare® ® marketed.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • a Erfin dung as particularly suitable compound from this group of substances that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyldimethylamine is dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, in each case on the entire Zusam ⁇ composition, included.
  • the surfactants (E) are preferably used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, more preferably 0.5-30% by weight, and most preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore built up like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic moiety.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is understood to mean a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with expenditure of energy for the purpose of creating stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • Emulsifiers preferably suitable according to the invention are, for example - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, C 2 -C 22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
  • Sterols are understood as meaning a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissues (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • Phospholipids include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soya beans).
  • Fatty acid ester of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydro- xystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product)
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one emulsifier in a total amount of 0.1-25% by weight, preferably 0.5-15% by weight, more preferably 1-10% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 1, 5 to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition, enthal ⁇ th.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract from the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita), at least one conditioning agent.
  • conditioning substances are to be understood as meaning substances which are absorbed on keratinic materials, in particular on the hair and / or the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties. Conditioning agents smooth the roughened and / or damaged cuticle of the hair or the uppermost layer of the skin, improve the combability, the feel, the softness and the volume of the hair and make the skin soft and supple.
  • Conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. B.
  • vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z.
  • fatty acids especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C 8-3 o fatty acids
  • fatty alcohols especially saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated , branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be ethoxylated with 1 to 75, preferably 5 to 20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3 to 30, preferably 9 to 14 propylene oxide units
  • ester oils ie esters of C 6 - 30 fatty acids with C 2-3 pick o-fatty alcohol, Hydroxycarbonklarealkylestern, dicarboxylic acid esters of di-n-butyl adipate and Diolestem such as Ethylenglykoldioleat or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetri ⁇ rule, asymmetrical or cycl
  • glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl (Cetiol ® CC), mono, - di- and Trifettkla- esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which are ethoxylated with 1-10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units kön- nen, z.
  • gehär ⁇ ended triglyceride phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dode camethylcyclohexasiloxan and silicone polymers, which may be crosslinked, if desired, for. B.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes polyalkylaryl siloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes having the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
  • compositions according to the invention which are used primarily as skin treatment agents are characterized in that they contain at least one fatty substance in a total amount of 0.1-50% by weight, preferably 1-20% by weight, more preferably 2-15 % By weight and most preferably 2-10% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention which are used primarily as hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one fatty substance in a total amount of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 7.5% by weight and very preferably 0.5-2% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.
  • Further conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazoliniurn methosulfate, gluconamidopropyl-dimethyl-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride (Quaterniu m-22), PPG-9 diethylmonium chloride, quaternium-26, quaternium 33, Quaternium-6O and Quaternium-70. Further conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from quaternized polymers such as polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-23 and polyquaternium-24.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in that they contain at least one quaternized amine and / or at least one quaternized polymer in a total amount of 0.05-5% by weight, preferably 0.1-4% by weight and more preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight %, in each case based on the total composition.
  • Keratinic fibers in particular human hair, are nowadays subjected to a large number of treatments. In doing so, the treatments which serve for a temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes, which should give a good grip, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair drier, etc.
  • synthetic polymers are usually contained in these products.
  • Spray preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
  • the setting active ingredients which are usually polymeric compounds, may also be incorporated into conventional hair cleansing or conditioning agents. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to use them in the form of special agents such as hair fixatives, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.
  • Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl - And Dialkylmethacrylamid, Alkylacry'at, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to O3 alkyl groups.
  • homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, of vinylpyrrolidone or of N-vinylformamide are particularly suitable.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides amides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y or Sepigel ® 305 by the company SEPPIC to be expelled; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers sold, for example, calculations under the glassesbezeich ⁇ Ucon® Union Carbide become.
  • Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, the z. B. under the trade name Nisso Sl ® by the company Lehmann & Voss.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume, the hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • fixing polymers are equal to tig also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for Haarbehand ⁇ lungsstoff such as hair fixatives, hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays.
  • the film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
  • Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylamides / DMAPA acrylates / IN / ethoxy PEG methacrylate copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides / acrylamides copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides / acrylates copolymer, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / Acrylamide copolymer, acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates copolymer, acrylates / C1-2 succinates / hydroxy acrylates copolymer, acrylates / lauryl acrylates / stearyl acrylates / ethylamines oxides, methacrylates copolymer, acrylates
  • compositions according to the invention in particular compositions according to the invention for oral and dental hygiene, are characterized in that they are formulated without emulsifier and surfactant.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) to prevent calculus formation.
  • preferred active substances for the prevention of calculus formation for example, be chelating agents, for.
  • Chelating agents belong to the group of complexing agents.
  • Complex images are substances that can complex metal ions.
  • Preferred complexing agents are so-called chelate complexing agents, ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, ie at least "bidentate".
  • chelate complexing agents ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, ie at least "bidentate".
  • normally stretched compounds are closed by complex formation via an ion into rings.
  • the number of bound ligands depends on the coordination number of the central ion.
  • Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts.
  • complex-forming polymers ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain itself or laterally to it, which can act as ligands and react with suitable metal atoms usually with the formation of chelate complexes, can be used according to the invention.
  • the polymer-bound ligands of the resulting metal complexes can originate from only one macro ⁇ molecule or belong to different polymer chains. The latter leads to the crosslinking of the material, provided that the complex-forming polymers were not previously crosslinked via covalent bonds.
  • Complexing groups (ligands) of conventional complex-forming polymers are iminodiacetic acid, hydroxyquinoline, thiourea, guanidine, dithiocarbamate, hydroxamic acid, amidoxime, aminophosphoric acid, (cyclic) polyamino, mercapto, 1, 3 -Dicarbonyl and crown ether radicals with z. T. very specific activities against ions of different metals.
  • Base polymers of many of the commercially significant complexing polymers are polystyrene, polyacrylates, polyacrylonitriles, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinylpyridines and polyethyleneimines. Natural polymers such as cellulose, starch or chitin are also complex-forming polymers. In addition, these can be provided by polymer analogous conversions with further ligand functionalities.
  • Hydroxyl groups is at least 5, (ii) nitrogen-containing mono- or polycarboxylic acids, (iii) geminal diphosphonic acids, (iv) aminophosphonic acids, (v) phosphonopolycarboxylic acids, (vi) cyclodextrins.
  • all complexing agents of the prior art can be used. These can belong to different chemical groups. Preferably, used individually or in admixture with each other:
  • polycarboxylic acids a) are understood as meaning carboxylic acids, including monocarboxylic acids, in which the sum of carboxyl groups and the hydroxyl groups contained in the molecule is at least 5.
  • Complexing agents from the group of nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA are preferred.
  • these complexing agents are at least partially present as anions. It is irrelevant whether they are introduced in the form of acids or in the form of salts.
  • alkali metal, ammonium or alkylammonium salts, in particular sodium salts are preferred.
  • polymeric aminodicarboxylic acids their salts or their precursors.
  • polyaspartic acids or their salts and derivatives which, in addition to cobuilder properties, also have a bleach-stabilizing effect.
  • polyacetals which can be obtained by reacting dialdehydes with polyolcarboxylic acids which have 5 to 7 C atoms and at least 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred polyacetals are obtained from dialdehydes such as glyoxal, glutaraldehyde, terephthalaldehyde and mixtures thereof and from polyol carboxylic acids such as gluconic acid and / or glucoheptonic acid.
  • phosphonates are in particular hydroxyalkane or aminoalkane phosphonates.
  • HEDP 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate
  • Preferred aminoalkane phosphonates are ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate (EDTMP), diethylene triamine pentamethylene phosphonate (DTPMP) and their higher homologs. They are preferably in the form of neutral sodium salts, eg. B.
  • the complexing agent used here is preferably HEDP from the class of phosphonates.
  • the aminoalkanephosphonates also have a pronounced heavy metal binding capacity. Accordingly, in particular if the agents also contain bleach, it may be preferable to use aminoalkanephosphonates, in particular DTPMP, or to use mixtures of the phosphonates mentioned.
  • phosphonates preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkane phosphonates and in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) or its di- or tetrasodium salt and / or ethylenediaminetetra methylenephosphonate (EDTMP) or its hexasodium salt and / or diethylenetriamine pentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) or its hepta or octasodium salt.
  • HEDP 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate
  • ETMP ethylenediaminetetra methylenephosphonate
  • DTPMP diethylenetriamine pentamethylenephosphonate
  • compositions for oral hygiene and dental hygiene are characterized in that they act as phosphate (s) alkali metal phosphate (s) and in particular sodium tripolyphosphate.
  • Phosphate preferably in amounts of 1 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 2 to 8 wt .-% and in particular from 3 to 7 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.
  • compositions for oral and dental hygiene in a suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical carrier at least one further ingredient selected from humectants, antiplaque agents, anti-caries agents, cleaning agents, Puffer ⁇ substances, inhibitors of dental plaque and / or tartar, Phosphates, salts of divalent metal ions, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives, preservatives, dyes, thickeners and soil-dissolving or -dispergierenden polymers.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain humectants.
  • Mouth and tooth care and cleaning compositions according to the invention which contain a humectant from the group of alcohols having at least 2 OH groups, preferably glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and mixtures thereof, are preferred here.
  • alcohols having at least 2 OH groups those having 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
  • the (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.
  • polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols, which consist of at least 2 ethylene glycol units or polypropylene glycol units.
  • polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups glycerin is of outstanding importance.
  • humectants As preferred humectants z. As glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, especially those having average molecular weights of 200-800 be used.
  • the humectant (s) may be used in the compositions of the invention in varying amounts. While depending on the other optional ingredients amounts of a few% (for example, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 wt.%, Each based on the total agent) may be included exis ⁇ also formulations containing significantly higher humectant contents, for example from 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75 wt.%, in each case based on the total agent auf ⁇ .
  • agents according to the invention which contain between 10 and 75% by weight of humectant. Contents between 15 and 70, preferably between 20 and 60 wt.%, In each case based on the total agent, may be preferred. Particularly preferred humectants are sorbitol, glycerol and 1,2-propylene glycol.
  • Particularly preferred oral and dental care and cleaning agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 12 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably from 17 to 40% by weight and in particular from 20 to 35% by weight. -% sorbitol and / or glycerol and / or 1, 2-propylene glycol.
  • sorbitol is preferred.
  • mixtures of two of the three preferred humectants or all three preferred humectants may be preferred.
  • compositions which contain 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 20 to 60 wt .-% humectant, preferred humectants are selected from alcohols having at least 2 OH groups and particularly preferred humectants are selected from sorbitol and / or glycerol and / or 1,2-propylene glycol or mixtures thereof and in particular preferred cosmetic composition according to the invention are characterized in that they are used as Feuchthalte ⁇ agent glycerol, sorbitol and 1, 2-propylene glycol in a weight ratio of (0-1): (0-1): (0.1-0.5), preferably 1: (0-1): (0.1-0.5), more preferably from 1 : (0.5)
  • the oral and dental care and cleaning agents according to the invention in particular the toothpastes, z. B. also contain antimicrobial substances as preservatives or as anti-plaque agents.
  • antimicrobial substances may, for. B. be selected from p-Hydroxybenzoeklaremethyl-, ethyl or propyl, sodium sorbate, sodium benzoate, bromochlorophene, triclosan, phenyl esters, salicylates, biguanides z. B. chlorhexidine, thymol, etc.
  • non-cationic, bactericidal component are, for example, phenols, resorcinols, bisphenols, salicylanilides and their halogenated derivatives, halogenated carbanilides and p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters.
  • Particularly preferred antimicrobial components are halogenated diphenyl ethers, for example 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 4,4'-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 2,4,4'-tromo-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether and 2,4, 4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan). They are preferably used in amounts of from 0.01 to 1% by weight in the dentifrices according to the invention. Triclosan is particularly preferably used in an amount of 0.01-0.3% by weight.
  • Cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain antiplaque agents, preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, sodium sorbate, sodium benzoate, bromochlorophene, triclosan, phenyl ester, salicylic acid esters, biguanides, for example.
  • antiplaque agents preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, sodium sorbate, sodium benzoate, bromochlorophene, triclosan, phenyl ester, salicylic acid esters, biguanides, for example.
  • B. chlorhexidine, thymol preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0.25 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular from 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, Each based on the total Means, included.
  • compositions according to the invention can also additionally other wound-healing and anti-inflammatory substances, eg. As agents against Zahn ⁇ meat inflammations included.
  • Such substances may, for. B. be selected from allantoin, azulen, chamomile extracts, tocopherol, panthenol, bisabolol, sage extracts.
  • ingredients that may be included in the compositions of the invention are the anti-caries agents. These may be selected, for example, from organic or inorganic fluorides, for. B. from sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, sodium monofluorophosphate and sodium fluorosilicate. Also zinc fluoride, stannous fluoride are preferred. An amount of 0.01-0.2% by weight of fluorine should preferably be present in the form of the compounds mentioned.
  • Cosmetic composition according to the invention containing as anti-caries active ingredients fluorine compound (s), in particular sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, sodium monofluorophosphate, Zinc fluoride, stannous fluoride and sodium fluorosilicate, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular from 0.1 to 1, 1 wt.%, Each based on the total agent, are preferred according to the invention.
  • fluorine compound in particular sodium fluoride, potassium fluoride, sodium monofluorophosphate, Zinc fluoride, stannous fluoride and sodium fluorosilicate, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular from 0.1 to 1, 1 wt.%, Each based on the total agent, are preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention in particular toothpastes or liquid toothpastes, preferably contain one or more polishing agents, usually in an amount of from 5 to 50% by weight.
  • polisher components are therefore silicic acids, aluminum hydroxide, aluminum nitrate, sodium aluminum silicates, organic polymers or mixtures of such friction substances.
  • Calcium-containing polishing components such. As chalk, calcium pyrophosphate, dicalcium phosphate dihydrate can be included in amounts up to 5 wt .-%.
  • the total content of polishing agents is preferably in the range of 5 to 50% by weight of the dentifrice.
  • Suitable silicas are e.g. Gel silicic acids, hydrogel silicic acids and precipitated silicas.
  • Gel silicas are prepared by reacting sodium silicate solutions with strong, aqueous mineral acids to form a hydrosol, aging to the hydrogel, washing and drying. If the drying is carried out under mild conditions to a water content of 15 to 35% by weight, the so-called hydrogel silicic acids are obtained. Drying to water contents below 15% by weight results in an irreversible shrinkage of the previously loose structure of the hydrogel to the dense structure of the so-called xerogel.
  • a second, preferably suitable group of silicic acid polishes are the precipitated silicas. These are obtained by precipitation of silica from dilute alkali silicate solutions by addition of strong acids under conditions in which aggregation to the sol and gel can not occur. Preference is given to using a precipitated silica having a BET surface area of 15-1 10 m 2 / g, a particle size of 0.5-20 ⁇ m, at least 80% by weight of the primary particles being below 5 ⁇ m, and a viscosity in 30% glycerol-water (1: 1) dispersion of 30-60 Pa. s (20 0 C) in an amount of 10 to 20 wt .-% of the toothpaste.
  • suitable precipitated silicas of this type also have rounded corners and edges and are available under the trade name Sident12 DS (DEGUSSA).
  • Toothpastes which have a significantly higher viscosity of more than 100 Pa.
  • Such toothpastes are therefore preferably added in addition to the precipitated silicas mentioned to finely divided, so-called thickening silicic acids having a BET surface area of 150-250 m 2 / g, eg.
  • the commercial products Sipernat 22 LS or Sipemat 320 DS are commercial products Sipernat 22 LS or Sipemat 320 DS.
  • polishing agent component e.g. Aluminum oxide in the form of weakly calcined clay containing Y and ⁇ -alumina in an amount of about 1-5 wt .-%.
  • a suitable alumina is available under the trade designation "Polianton earth P10 finest" (Giulini Chemie).
  • polishing agent As a polishing agent are all further known for toothpastes friction body such.
  • cosmetic compositions according to the invention which also contain cleaning bodies, preferably silicic acids, aluminum hydroxide, aluminum oxide, calcium pyrophosphate, chalk, dicalcium phosphate dihydrate (CaHPO 4 .2H 2 O), sodium aluminum silicates, in particular zeolite A, organic polymers, in particular polymethacrylates or Mixtures of these friction bodies, preferably in amounts of from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 25% by weight and in particular from 5 to 20% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
  • cleaning bodies preferably silicic acids, aluminum hydroxide, aluminum oxide, calcium pyrophosphate, chalk, dicalcium phosphate dihydrate (CaHPO 4 .2H 2 O), sodium aluminum silicates, in particular zeolite A, organic polymers, in particular polymethacrylates or Mixtures of these friction bodies, preferably in amounts of from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 25% by weight and in particular from 5 to 20% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
  • water-soluble polymers such as alginates, carrageenan, tragacanth, starch and starch ethers, cellulose ethers such.
  • Carboxymethylcellulose Na-SaIz
  • hydroxyethylcellulose methylhydroxypropylcellulose, guar, acacia
  • agar xanthan gum
  • succinoglycan gum locust bean gum
  • pectins water-soluble carboxyvinyl polymers
  • polyvinyl alcohol polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • polyethylene glycols of the structure HO- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -H in particular those having molecular weights of 1 500 - 1 000 000.
  • z. B phyllosilicates
  • montmorillonite clays colloidal thickened silicas such.
  • airgel silicas fumed silicas or finely ground precipitated silicas.
  • viscosity-stabilizing additives from the group of cationic, zwitterionic or ampholytic nitrogenous surfactants, hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrocolloids or polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 5000 or a combination of the compounds mentioned in the toothpastes.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain substances for increasing the mineralizing potential, for example calcium-containing substances such as, for example, Calcium chloride, calcium acetate and dicalcium phosphate dihydrate.
  • concentration of the calcium-containing substance depends on the solubility of the substance and the interaction with other substances contained in the oral and dental care products.
  • the dentifrices according to the invention may contain further adjuvants and additives known per se.
  • An additive which has been known for a long time as a toothpaste component is particularly effective in the dentifrices according to the invention: calcium glycerophosphate, the calcium salt of glycerol-1-phosphoric acid or of glycerol-2-phosphoric acid or of glycerol-1 - phosphoric acid enantiomeric glycerol-3-phosphoric acid - or a mixture of these acids.
  • the compound has a remineralizing effect in dentifrices as it provides both calcium and phosphate ions.
  • calcium glycerophosphate is preferably used in amounts of 0.01-1% by weight.
  • the tooth cleaning agents according to the invention may contain customary auxiliaries and additives in amounts of up to 10% by weight.
  • the use of further substances in the compositions according to the invention is possible and preferred.
  • the insensitivity of the teeth-enhancing substances may be included, for example, potassium salts such. As potassium nitrate, potassium citrate, potassium chloride, potassium bicarbonate and potassium oxalate. Even salts of divalent metal ions are preferred ingredients.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are those salts of Ca 2+ , Mg 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mn 2 "*" , preferably sulfates and / or carbonates and / or phosphates, particularly preferably MgSO 4 -heptahydrate, ZnSO 4 Heptahydrate, MnSO 4 monohydrate, Ca-glycerophosphate, preferably in (total) amounts of from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight and in particular of 0, 2 to 1, 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total agent ent keep.
  • the dentifrices according to the invention may e.g. by adding aromatic oils and
  • Sweeteners are improved in their organoleptic properties.
  • aroma oils all the natural and synthetic flavors customary for oral and dental care products can be used. Natural flavors can be found both in the form of natural essential oils isolated from drugs and those isolated from them.
  • Suitable flavors are e.g. Peppermint oil, curled mint oil, eucalyptus oil, aniseed oil, fennel oil, caraway oil, menthyl acetate, cinnamaldehyde, anethole,
  • Vanillin Vanillin, thymol and mixtures of these components.
  • Suitable sweeteners are e.g. Saccharin sodium, sodium cyclamate, sucrose, lactose, meltose, fructose.
  • surface-active substances preferably anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric, nonionic surfactants or a combination of several different surfactants, solvents and solubilizers, eg. Lower monohydric or polyhydric alcohols or ethers, e.g. Ethanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, diethylene glycol or butyl diglycol
  • Pigments e.g. Titanium dioxide dyes
  • Buffer substances for example primary, secondary or tertiary alkali phosphates or citric acid / Na citrate other wound-healing or anti-inflammatory substances, for example allantoin, urea, azulene, chamomile active substances, acetylsalicylic acid derivatives or rhodanide, further vitamins such as ascorbic acid, biotin, tocopherol or rutin mineral salts such as manganese, zinc or magnesium salts.
  • Buffer substances for example primary, secondary or tertiary alkali phosphates or citric acid / Na citrate other wound-healing or anti-inflammatory substances, for example allantoin, urea, azulene, chamomile active substances, acetylsalicylic acid derivatives or rhodanide, further vitamins such as ascorbic acid, biotin, tocopherol or rutin mineral salts such as manganese, zinc or magnesium salts.
  • compositions for oral and dental hygiene contain at least 0.25 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.4 to 4 wt .-%, most preferably 0 , 5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.6 to 2 wt .-% of at least one bio ⁇ active glass.
  • biologically active glasses encompasses glasses which are biologically active and / or biologically active
  • biologically active glass differs from conventional sodium lime
  • biologically active glass refers to a glass which forms a firm bond with body tissue, forming a hydroxyapatite layer .
  • a bioactive glass is also understood to mean a glass which contains antimicrobial and / or synthetic glass.
  • the glass powders have a biocidal or biostatic effect against bacteria, fungi and viruses, are skin-friendly in contact with humans, toxicologically unobjectionable and, in particular, also suitable for consumption.
  • compositions according to the invention in particular the oral and dental care and cleaning compositions, contain bioactive glass or glass powder or glass ceramic powder or composite materials which comprise such a bioactive glass.
  • bioactive glass or glass powder or glass ceramic powder or composite materials which comprise such a bioactive glass.
  • glass powders are also understood as meaning granules and glass beads.
  • the glass powder should be particularly pure.
  • the burden of heavy metals is preferably low.
  • the maximum concentration in the range of cosmetic formulations is preferably for Pb ⁇ 20 ppm, Cd ⁇ 5 ppm, As ⁇ 5 ppm, Sb ⁇ 10 ppm, Hg ⁇ 1 ppm, Ni ⁇ 10 ppm.
  • the unfused starting glass which is contained directly in the compositions according to the invention or is optionally used for the production of a glass ceramic which can be used according to the invention, contains SiO 2 as a network former, preferably between 35-80% by weight. At lower concentrations, the spontaneous crystallization strong tendency to strongly increase the chemical resistance. At higher SiO 2 values, the crystallization stability may decrease and the processing temperature is significantly increased, so that the hot-forming properties deteriorate. Na 2 O is used as a flux when melting the glass. At concentrations of less than 5%, the melting behavior is adversely affected.
  • Sodium is a constituent of the phases which form during the ceramization and, if high crystalline phase fractions are to be adjusted by the ceramization, must be present in correspondingly high concentrations in the glass.
  • K 2 O acts as a flux when melting the glass.
  • potassium is released in aqueous systems. If high potassium concentrations are present in the glass, potassium-containing phases such as potassium silicates are likewise eliminated.
  • the P 2 O 5 content can be used to adjust the chemical resistance of the glass and thus the release of ions in aqueous media.
  • P 2 O 5 is a network former.
  • the P 2 O 5 content is preferably between 0 and 80 wt .-%.
  • the glass may contain up to 25% by weight of B 2 O 3 .
  • Al 2 O 3 is used to adjust the chemical resistance of the glass.
  • the antibacterial properties of the glass-ceramic antimicrobial acting ions such as Ag, Au, I, Ce, Cu, Zn in concentrations less than 5 wt .-% may be included.
  • Coloring ions such as. As Mn, Cu, Fe, Cr, Co, V, may be contained individually or in combination, preferably in a total concentration less than 1 wt .-%.
  • the glass or the glass ceramic is used in powder form.
  • the Kerami ⁇ sation can be done either with a glass block or Glasribbons or with glass powder. After ceramization, the glass ceramic blocks or ribbons must be ground to powder. If the powder has been ceramified, it may also be necessary to re-mill to remove agglomerates formed during the ceramification step.
  • the grinding operations can be carried out both dry and in aqueous or non-aqueous milling media.
  • the particle sizes are less than 500 microns. As appropriate, particle sizes ⁇ 100 microns or ⁇ 20 microns have been found. Particularly suitable are particle sizes ⁇ 10 microns and less than 5 microns and less than 2 microns, see below.
  • the bioactive glasses or glass powder or glass ceramic powder or composite compositions contained in the compositions according to the invention comprise glasses which preferably comprise the following components: SiO 2 : 35-80% by weight, Na 2 O: 0-35% by weight , P 2 O 5 : 0-80% by weight, MgO: 0-5% by weight, Ag 2 O: 0-0.5% by weight, AgJ: 0- 0.5% by weight, NaI: 0-5% by weight, TiO 2 : 0-5% by weight, K 2 O: 0-35% by weight, ZnO: 0 -10% by weight , Al 2 O 3 : 0-25 wt .-% and B 2 O 3 : 0-25 wt .-%.
  • the base glass according to the above composition may contain ions such as Fe, Co, Cr, V, Ce, Cu, Mn, Ni, Bi, Sn, Ag, Au, J singly or in groups Sum up to 10 wt .-% added was ⁇ the.
  • a further glass composition may be as follows: SiO 2 : 35-80 wt%, Na 2 O: 0-35 wt%, P 2 O 5 : 0-80 wt%, MgO: 0-5 wt %, Ag 2 O: 0-0.5 wt%, AgJ: 0-0.5 wt%, NaJ: 0-5 wt%, TiO 2 : 0-5 wt% , K 2 O: 0-35 wt .-%, ZnO: 0-10 wt .-%, Al 2 O 3 : 0-25 wt .-%, B 2 O 3 : 0- 25 wt .-%, SnO : 0-5 wt%, CeO 2 : 0-3 wt% and Au: 0.001-0.1 wt%.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the bioactive glass, based on its weight, has the following composition:
  • SiO 2 35 to 60% by weight, preferably 40 to 60% by weight
  • P 2 O 5 0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 10 wt .-%,
  • MgO 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight
  • CaO 0 to 35% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight
  • Al 2 O 3 0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 0 to 5 wt .-%,
  • B 2 O 3 0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 0 to 5 wt .-%,
  • TiO 2 O to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%.
  • the bioactive glass is preferably used in particulate form.
  • particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the bioactive glass has particle sizes ⁇ 10 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.5 to 4 ⁇ m, particularly preferably from 1 to 2 ⁇ m.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one protein from legume seeds.
  • These preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one protein from legume seeds.
  • Seeds of bean species such as Phaseolus angularis, Phaseolus lunatus, Phaseolus aureus, Phaseolus vulgaris are suitable as legume seeds for obtaining the proteins contained in the preferred agents according to the invention.
  • the protein fractions contained in the preferred compositions according to the invention can be obtained from said leguminous seeds by grinding the dried seeds, extracted the flour obtained with an organic solvent or a solvent mixture, dried and the thus defatted flour with water or an aqueous Electrolyte solution at a pH of 2 to 10, preferably at pH 5 to 6 extracted, the extract to pH 5 to 7, concentrated in vacuo, the Kon ⁇ centrate with the addition of a filter aid such as diatomaceous earth clearly filtered or centrifuged, the proteins thereof either by salt precipitation, for example with ammonium sulfate at 30 to 80% saturation, or precipitated by precipitation with an organic, water-immiscible solvent such as ethanol in a concentration of 60 to 90%, collected by filtration or centrifugation and finally either directly dried in vacuo or for the time being salts removed by dialysis, gel filtration or ultrafiltration and then lyophilized.
  • a filter aid such as diatomaceous earth
  • Cosmetic compositions especially oral and dental care and cleansing compositions, containing these particular proteins have anti-inflammatory activity.
  • oral and dental care and cleaning products containing these proteins promote the repair of already damaged gums.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the protein is characterized from legume seed by a) its isolation from leguminous seeds, b) at least one band in polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis with sodium dodecyl sulfate, c) molecular masses 3000-30 1 OOO g / mol, d) Content of total nitrogen of 14% to 20% and amino nitrogen of 1% to 2% based on the protein content, e) solubility in water and aqueous electrolyte solutions and insolubility in ethanol and acetone, f) strong precipitation in aqueous solution after addition of trichloroacetic acid, sulfosalicylic acid, picric acid or benzethonium chloride, g) inhibition of PMN elastase and fibroblast elastase.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one protein from legume seeds [feature a)].
  • the above-described preferred agents according to the invention are furthermore characterized in that the protein or the protein fraction in polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis in the presence of sodium dodecyl sulfate (Phastsystem, Pharmacia Biosystems, Uppsala, S) has at least one band whose electrophoretic mobility is based on relative molecular masses of 3000 to 30 000 g / mol [features b) and c)].
  • a content of total nitrogen of 14 to 20% and amino nitrogen of 1 to 2% in each case based on the protein content, vor ⁇ togtgt [feature d)], and the protein or the protein fraction is preferably in water and aqueous electrolyte solutions insoluble, insoluble in ethanol and acetone and shows in aqueous solution after addition of trichloroacetic acid, sulfosalicylic acid, picric acid or benzethonium chloride a strong precipitate [features e) and T)].
  • the protein fraction inhibits proteinases and shows, for example, measured in terms of trypsin, an I 50 value of less than 10 ug (based on the dry matter) per ml of test mixture, measured on PMN elastase, a 1 50 value of less than 100 ug (based on the dry matter) per ml, measured on tryptase, a 1 50 value of less than 200 mg (based on dry substance) per ml of test mixture and, measured on fibroblast elastase, an I 50 value of less than 350 mg (based on the dry matter) per ml of test mixture.
  • trypsin an I 50 value of less than 10 ug (based on the dry matter) per ml of test mixture
  • PMN elastase measured on PMN elastase
  • a 1 50 value of less than 100 ug (based on the dry matter) per ml measured on tryptase
  • the protein (s) from legume seeds may be present in the inventively preferred compositions in amounts of up to 10% by weight, wherein the inflammation-inhibiting and gum-repairing effect already occurs at a significantly lower concentration.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the protein (s) from leguminous seeds in amounts of from 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0 , 01 to 1 wt.%, Each based on the total agent included.
  • Another preferred ingredient which may be included in the compositions of the invention is N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC).
  • compositions according to the invention are distinguished by particularly positive anti-inflammatory and gum-repairing properties.
  • preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are those which additionally comprise N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC), preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total agent.
  • NAC N-acetyl-L-cysteine
  • thymulin and / or thymopietin peptides are thymulin and / or thymopietin peptides. Preferred among these are the peptides which have at least one of the following amino acid sequences: GIn-Gly-Gly Arg-Lys-Asp Lys-Asp-Val
  • Preferred amino acid sequences of the thymulin and / or thymopietin peptides can be described by the general formula X-GIn-Gly-Gly-Y, in which GIn is glutamic acid or a glutamic acid derivative and Gly is glycine or a glycine derivative.
  • Particularly preferred peptides have a sequence of the formula AX-GIn-Gly-Gly-Y in which A is a mono- or dicarboxylic acid residue, preferably an acetyl residue, and -X is Ser, Lys-Ser, Ala-Lys-Ser, Pyr -Ala-Lys-Ser, a chemical bond or Glix-AIa-Lys-Ser, where Glix is Pyro-Glu, Glu or Gly and their respective derivatives, and -Y is Ser-Asn-OH, Ser-Asn-NH 2 , Ser-OH or Ser-NH 2 .
  • Preferred peptides have the following amino acid sequences: A-Pyr-Ala-Lys-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Ser-Asn-NH 2 A-Pyr-Ala-Lys-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Ser-NH 2 A-Ala-Lys-Ser-Gln-Gln-Gly-Ser-Asn-NH 2 A-Ala-Lys-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Ser-NH 2 A-Lys-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Gly-Gly Ser-Asn-NH 2 A-Lys-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Ser-NH 2 A-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Ser-Asn-NH 2 A-Ser-Gln-Gly-Gly-Ser-Asn-NH 2 A-Ser-Gln-Gly
  • A-W-Lys-Asp-Z a sequence of the formula A-W-Lys-Asp-Z, in which A is a mono or dicarboxylic acid residue, preferably an acetyl radical, and
  • -W is Glu-Gln-Arg, Gin-Arg, Arg, Arg-Lys, Arg-Lys-Asp or a chemical bond;
  • Z is Val-Tyr-NH 2 , Val-Tyr-OH, VaI-NH 2 , VaI-OH, Tyr-OH, Tyr-NH 2 , -OH or r-NH 2 .
  • Preferred peptides have the following amino acid sequences: A-Glu-Gln-Arg-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-NH 2 A-Glu-Gln-Arg-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-OH A-Gln-Arg-Lys -Asp-Val-Tyr-NH 2 A-Gln-Arg-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-OH A-Arg-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-NH 2 A-Arg-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-NH 2 A-Arg-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-OH A-Lys-Asp-Val-Tyr-NH 2 A-Arg-Lys-A
  • cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain thymulin and / or thymopietin peptides, preferably with at least three amino acids, preferably in amounts of from 0.0000001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.000001 to 0, 01 wt.% And in particular from 0.000005 to 0.0001 wt.%, Each based on the total agent included.
  • compositions according to the invention in particular compositions for oral and dental hygiene, which in addition to the protein from legume seeds contain NAC and / or thymulin and / or thymopietin peptides, are particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention.
  • At least one active substance for stimulating ⁇ -endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes in particular mixtures of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves Peppermint (Mentha piperita), in oral and dental care and cleaning agents to a number of beneficial properties.
  • Consumers thus consistently evaluate the products according to the invention better than analogously compositionated and packaged products which are free from the abovementioned extracts.
  • test persons repeatedly point to a considerably increased feeling of freshness and increased perceived product performance.
  • Further objects of the present invention are the use of at least one active substance for stimulating the ⁇ -endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes, in particular of mixtures of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theo broma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita), in oral hygiene products, mouth cleansing agents, dentifrices or tooth cleaning agents, and in particular the use for increasing consumption sensation, in particular for increasing the feeling of freshness and / or the feeling of happiness.
  • at least one active substance for stimulating the ⁇ -endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes in particular of mixtures of at least one extract from the beans of cocoa (Theo broma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita), in oral hygiene products, mouth cleansing agents, dentifrices or tooth cleaning agents, and in particular the use for increasing consumption sensation, in particular for increasing the feeling of freshness and / or the feeling of happiness.
  • At least one active substance for stimulating the ⁇ -endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes in particular mixtures of at least one extract from the beans of Kalcao (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract from the leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita), for improving the sensory properties of oral care products, mouth cleansing agents, dentifrices or dentifrices, the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of mixtures of at least one extract from the cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) for the treatment of inflammatory diseases of the mouth and the oral cavity, in particular for the treatment of gingivitis and Ver ⁇ use of mixtures of at least one extract of the beans of Kalcao (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the Leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) for the prevention and / or reduction of halitosis.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention are in the form of a liquid, free-flowing or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, melt emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil. or water-in-oil-in-water Emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a single- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least one suitable as a medical adhesive Polymer before.
  • the agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm.
  • the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.
  • the agents are present as microemulsions.
  • microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions, these systems being systems with the three components water, oil and emulsifier which are dissolved at room temperature as oil-in-water emulsions.
  • microemulsions When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions however, O / W emulsions are also present, which are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of approximately 100 to 300 nm. Emulsions having an average particle diameter of about 200 nm may be preferred.
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohols, with C 2 -C 22 fatty acids and with C 8 -C 15 -alkylphenols, C 1 C 2 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto C 3 -C 6 -polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C 8 C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included.
  • suitable emulsifiers having an HLB value of 8 and below are the An ⁇ storage products of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide to behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid.
  • the monoesters of C 16 -C 30 fatty acids with polyols such as.
  • pentaerythritol trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose.
  • examples of such products are sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.
  • Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. B.
  • ⁇ ionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt vorlie ⁇ conditions and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be included.
  • Be ⁇ preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are Sepigel ® 305 S ⁇ mulgel ® 600, Simulgel® ® NS and Simulgel® ® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ®.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80 to 98% of an unsatisfactory -saturated, optionally substituted C 3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride as well as 2-20% optionally substituted acrylate of saturated C 10- 3o-carboxylic acids, which copolymer may be crosslinked with the foregoing crosslinking agents.
  • Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ® and Carbopol ® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones, z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF) ver ⁇ be driven.
  • antioxidants are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances position suitability for adjusting the pH, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine (Octopirox), Zinc Omnadine and Climbazol, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, opacifiers and blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures , Pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
  • solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol
  • Keratinocyte cultures were in each case with an aqueous solution of 1 wt .-% or 5 wt .-% of the raw material to be examined share ver ⁇ 24 hours ver ⁇ sets.
  • the ⁇ -endorphin content produced was determined in the culture medium with the aid of an enzyme immunoassay kit ( ⁇ -endorphin human, EIA kit from Phoenix Pharmaceuticals).
  • salivary cortisol content was significantly reduced by 16% after a single application of an emulsion containing 2% by weight of Caomint.
  • Ciomint used in the following examples is a commercial product from Solabia, which contains 3% by weight extract from the beans of cocoa (Theo broma cacao) and extract from the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita); INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Mentha piperita, Theobroma cacao.
  • Oil-in-water emulsions 1. Skin creams
  • Cleansing gels nos. 2 and 3 contain peeling bodies.
  • Sprayable, translucent antiperspirant or deodorant microemulsions (in% by weight)
  • compositions for soaking wipes are examples of compositions for soaking wipes.
  • Example 1 illustrates a lotion composition for a lotion and make-up remover.
  • Example 2 illustrates a soak composition for a self-tanner cloth.
  • Example 3 illustrates a soak composition for a sunscreen cloth.
  • Example 4 illustrates a drenching composition for a facial cleansing and exfoliating
  • Xanthan gum 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 1 OO ad 100
  • Sprayable, translucent antiperspirant microemulsions (2.1 - 2.3, 2.7, 2.8) or deodorant microemulsions (2.4 - 2.6) (in% by weight)

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques qui contiennent dans un support cosmétique ou dermatologique approprié au moins un extrait de fèves de cacao (Theobroma cacao), au moins un extrait de feuilles de menthe (Mentha piperita) et au moins une autre substance cosmétique active sélectionnée. Cette invention concerne également de nouvelles utilisations de ces compositions.
EP05792768A 2004-10-15 2005-09-29 Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques comprenant des substances actives qui ameliorent la perception sensorielle Ceased EP1800119A2 (fr)

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DE102004050563A DE102004050563A1 (de) 2004-10-15 2004-10-15 Kosmetische und der dermatologische Zusammensetzungen mit Wirkstoffen für einen verbesserten Hautkomfort
DE102004057858A DE102004057858A1 (de) 2004-10-15 2004-11-30 Kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zur Mund- und Zahnhygiene
PCT/EP2005/010526 WO2006042627A2 (fr) 2004-10-15 2005-09-29 Compositions cosmetiques et dermatologiques comprenant des substances actives qui ameliorent la perception sensorielle

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DE102006033321A1 (de) * 2006-07-17 2008-01-24 Westfälische Wilhelms-Universität Münster Medizinische Verwendung von N-Phenylpropenoyl-Aminosäurederivaten und verwandten Verbindungen
DE102007013857A1 (de) * 2007-03-20 2008-09-25 Maria Clementine Martin Klosterfrau Vertriebsgesellschaft Mbh Neue Zusammensetzungen, insbesondere für die topische Behandlung von Hauterkrankungen
DE102011088931A1 (de) * 2011-12-19 2013-06-20 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Hydroxamsäuren zur Stabilisierung kosmetischer und oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen
EP3247333B1 (fr) * 2015-01-20 2021-07-21 Tetraderm Group LLC Véhicule d'administration de médicament topique polyvalent et hydratant tissulaire multifactoriel qui permet la restauration de la barrière muqueuse et cutanée

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US4242323A (en) * 1979-08-22 1980-12-30 Vlock D G Plaque inhibiting oral composition
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FR2810242B1 (fr) * 2000-06-16 2003-01-17 Nuxe Lab Composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique a base d'extraits de cacao
JP2002113080A (ja) * 2000-08-11 2002-04-16 Takasago Internatl Corp 消臭剤組成物およびその使用方法
FR2848851B1 (fr) * 2002-12-20 2006-03-10 Procede d'obtention d'un principe actif presentant des capacites apaisantes, principe actif et compositions obtenues

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