EP1796616A1 - Produits cosmetiques multicolores - Google Patents

Produits cosmetiques multicolores

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Publication number
EP1796616A1
EP1796616A1 EP04764800A EP04764800A EP1796616A1 EP 1796616 A1 EP1796616 A1 EP 1796616A1 EP 04764800 A EP04764800 A EP 04764800A EP 04764800 A EP04764800 A EP 04764800A EP 1796616 A1 EP1796616 A1 EP 1796616A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
preparation according
cosmetic preparation
advantageous
alkyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP04764800A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stephan Ruppert
Michaela Kohut
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1796616A1 publication Critical patent/EP1796616A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to multicolored cosmetic preparations.
  • Cosmetic cleansing products are usually offered in the form of gels, lotions and solids (soap bars, washing synthetics).
  • Skin care products usually creams, ointments or lotions, are mostly used to moisturize and moisturize the skin. Often, agents that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g., wrinkles, wrinkles) are added to them.
  • UV-protection filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological products.
  • Cosmetic formulations are often externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, these are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring. In order to make the preparations more attractive to the user, dyes and effect substances can be added to them.
  • Cosmetic gels for example, are mostly transparent (transparent) or translucent (translucent) preparations.
  • Cosmetic emulsions e.g.
  • Products which are usually offered in transparent packaging can also be given interesting optical effects by incorporated color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances).
  • color particles color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances).
  • color particles color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances).
  • colorless detergents unattractive and boring and often consider bathing and washing to be superfluous and annoying, such formulations are particularly attractive.
  • Multicolor cosmetic preparations in particular liquid or viscous cleaning preparations, are hitherto unknown in the prior art. Because the problem is that the color effects are usually not stable over a longer period of time. In particular, the storage, transport and temperature stability leave much to be desired in multicolor preparations.
  • soluble dyes are used in a multi-colored preparation, or if only a part of the formulation is to be dyed, then diffusion of the individual ink zones of the preparation occurs. The sharp color boundaries dissolve in favor of a fluid color transition, which many consumers interpret as the preparation being unusable and "spoiled.” In general, soluble dyes are also absorbed more easily by the skin than color pigments, which results from toxicological or allergological view is usually undesirable.
  • pigmentary dyes in multicolor preparations is also associated with a number of disadvantages in the prior art.
  • these dyes can only be used in solid or highly viscous preparation forms (eg soap bars, washing synthetics, toothpaste), since the pigments sediment over time with low-viscosity preparations.
  • the fall of the particles on the bottom of the packaging is thereby accelerated by vibrations (eg during transport), so that such products lack storage and transport stability.
  • a production of stable multi-colored shower gels, hair shampoos, hair conditioners or styling gels was not possible according to the state of the art.
  • multicolored cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more pigmentary dyes, b) one or more gel formers c) water, optionally further cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, with a Yield point of 0.5 Pa to 40 Pa and a tan ⁇ of 0.02 to 0.8, to remedy the deficiencies of the prior art.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished by an unusually high stability.
  • the storage and transport stability but also the temperature stability are significantly increased.
  • Figures 1, 2 and 3 show some embodiments of the invention.
  • the yield stress of the invention is considered to be the critical shear stress of the flow curve. It can be determined according to the invention as follows: The flow curve is measured on a shear stress controlled rheometer at 25 0 C ⁇ VC with 25 mm plate / plate geometry at a gap between 0.8 mm and 1, 2 mm, which is filled structure gentle. A suitable constant shear stress time ramp is specified and a corresponding structure recovery time is maintained before the test and the critical shear stress is specified at the maximum of the flow curve.
  • a structurally gentle filling is understood to mean that the filling takes place as follows: The product is carefully removed with a spatula and inserted into the measuring instrument. The product should not be sheared in order to avoid destruction or interference with the structures.
  • a tan ⁇ is understood according to the invention to mean the quotient of the loss modulus and the storage modulus.
  • the ⁇ tan as determined follows are measured loss and storage modulus by a dynamic frequency test on a shear stress-controlled rheometer at 40 0 C ⁇ 1 ° C with 25 mm plate / plate geometry mm with a gap from 0.8 to 1, 2 mm , which is filled structure gentle.
  • the frequency test is carried out with a corresponding structure recovery time before the test and the tan ⁇ is specified in the frequency range between 0.05 rad / s and 3.0 rad / s, preferably between 0.08 rad / s and 1, 0 rad / s.
  • a flow limit of 0.5 to 20 Pa is preferred, with a yield point of 1 to 6 Pa being particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • tan ⁇ is between 0.05 and 0.6, with the range of 0.1 to 0.5 being particularly preferred.
  • the adjustment of the yield point according to the invention and of the tan ⁇ according to the invention is carried out by varying the amount of gelling agent in the formulation.
  • the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention advantageously contains one or more pigmentary dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of Preparation.
  • partial portions are understood as meaning individual portions of the preparation into which the undyed (but not necessarily colorless) crude preparation is divided, and which are dyed with different pigmentary dyes.
  • Part preparations remains uncoloured.
  • the partial portions can advantageously be identical except for the type and content of pigmentary dyes in their composition.
  • this is not mandatory since the part preparations may also have a different composition, which is preferred according to the invention.
  • pigmentary dyes which are advantageous according to the invention, it is possible to use all compounds listed from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes.
  • the preparations according to the invention may also contain other dyes.
  • advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list.
  • the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Ed., Society of Dyers and Colou ⁇ sts, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2- (4-sulfo-1 -naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2 l -azonaphthalin-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2- Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) 2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthyl
  • Titanium dioxides according to the invention which may be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications, are advantageously surface-treated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being or being retained Surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se.
  • the various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the context of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (ZrO 2 ) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
  • oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates for example of the elements Al, Si, Zr are precipitated in dense layers on the pigment surface.
  • the inorganic aftertreatment is generally carried out in an aqueous suspension of the pigment by the addition of soluble post-treatment chemicals, e.g. Aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation of the sparingly soluble in the neutral range of hydroxide by selective adjustment of the pH with sodium hydroxide solution.
  • soluble post-treatment chemicals e.g. Aluminum sulfate
  • the coated pigments are separated from the suspension by filtration and washed thoroughly to remove the dissolved salts, then the isolated pigments are dried.
  • titanium dioxides onto which aluminum hydroxide has been applied to the surface such as titanium dioxide grades C47-051 and C47-5175 available from Sun Chemical.
  • Further preferred pigments are titanium dioxides containing aluminum and / or silicon oxides arecoated, as for example from the company Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from the company Kingfisher: A310.03 Mathematics Aspen.
  • Organic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiioxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiioxane having an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • pearlescent pigments include natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
  • monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such.
  • pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica.
  • vorteihaft z For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous.
  • pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names T imiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides G limmer with other M etalloxiden b coats, such.
  • pearlescent pigments which are prepared using SiO 2 .
  • Such pigments which may also have additional gonichromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, whereby different color effects are generally caused by different coating thicknesses.
  • the pigmentary dyes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are the blue pigments listed, for example INCI: Cl 77007, Outremer Supercosmetique W 6803 from Les Colorants Wackherr, INCI: Cl 77891 + Mica + Silica, Timiron Splendid Blue from Merck.
  • mica coated with titanium dioxide and silica for example INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + silica, Timiron Arctic Silver from Merck, INCI: Mica + Cl 77891, Timiron Gleamer Flake MP-45 from Merck; alumina or silica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide, eg INCI: Silica + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Magic Mauve from Merck; eg INCI: Alumina + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Silver, with titanium dioxide and Berlin Blue coated mica, eg INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + Cl 77510, Colorona Light Blue and Colorona Dark Blue from Merck.
  • INCI Mica + Cl 77891 + silica, Timiron Arctic Silver from Merck
  • INCI Mica + Cl 77891, Timiron Gleamer Flake MP-45 from Merck
  • alumina or silica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide eg INCI: Silica + Cl 77891 +
  • pearlescent agents based on dialkyl ethers which are solid at 30 0 C and including: have the following formula: ROR 'where R and R' may be the same or different straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals this.. may consist of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms More preferably, R and R ⁇ consist of a stearyl radical. (for example, INCI: distearyl ether, Cutina STE from Cognis).
  • the dialkyl ethers used are at a concentration of about 0.1% not soluble in water at 25 ° C.
  • acylated radicals consisting of a fatty acid chain with 8 to 30
  • Carbon atoms are used.
  • Fatty acid chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene glycol monostearates and ethylene glycol distearates e.g. INCI: Glycol Distearate, Cutina AGS from Cognis, INCI: Aqua + Glycol Distearate + Glycerin + Laureth-
  • opacifiers are also advantageously possible according to the invention.
  • the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocolloids / gelling agents in a concentration of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.3 to 4 % By weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Hydrocolloid is the technological abbreviation for the more correct term “hydrophilic colloid”. Hydrocolloids, also called thickeners or gelling agents, are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces that allow side and Hauptvalenz Kunststoffen between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a net-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by taking up and enveloping the water in their interwoven macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked.
  • the hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows: organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum,
  • Polymethacrylic compounds vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds such.
  • polysilicic acids clay minerals
  • Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and -propylcellulose derivatives, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds are advantageous hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention Compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, 'zeolites, silicas used.
  • Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and which, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. It is especially preferred to use (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose also known as cellulose gum, available from Aqualon under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS.
  • xanthan also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2x106 to 24 * 106.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of xanthan.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. In this case, yields of 25-30 g / l reached.
  • the workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z. 2-propano). Xanthan is then dried and ground.
  • Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar based extract of North Atlantic, to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
  • carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%.
  • Carrageenan which is very slightly soluble in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan.
  • Carrageenan has three main components:
  • the gel-forming ⁇ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (Agar, in contrast, contains 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-galactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1, 3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1, 4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate radicals u. easily soluble in cold water.
  • the ⁇ -carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1, 3-bond and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1, 4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming.
  • Other carrageenan types are also designated by Greek letters: ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ .
  • the nature of existing cations K + , NH 4 + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators to be used in the context of the present invention.
  • Polyacryiates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention have the following structure:
  • R 1 represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 from NOVEON Inc. and Aculyn® 33 from International Specialty Products Corp. are available.
  • the hydrocolloids particularly preferred according to the invention are: acrylates copolymer (AQUA SF-1), acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymers (Carbopol ETD 2020), xanthan gum (press)
  • the ratio of the total amount of pigmentary dyes to the total amount of hydrocolloids is from 1: 100 to 1: 4, preferably from 1: 200 to 6: 1 and more preferably from 1: 300 to 1: 8 ,
  • the water content in the preparation is advantageously from 20 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight and very particularly preferably from 40 to 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously one or more. Containing surfactants. Both anionic, cationic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants can advantageously be used according to the invention.
  • washing-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamate
  • Sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • Sulfonic acids and their salts such as acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate and derivatives,
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TlPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12-1 3 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. For example, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaine are advantageous.
  • Advantageous washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the context of the present invention are advantageous.
  • Acyl / dialkylethylenediamines for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium acylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • alkanolamides such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIRA
  • anionic surfactants are taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyitaurate,
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
  • ⁇ Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, ⁇ alkyl sulfonates, for example Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, sodium Ci 2-H olefinsulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkyl amino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and N-
  • nonionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are further provided.
  • acylglutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • Acyl peptides for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
  • lauric acid for example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc cyanate,
  • Ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Ethoxylated amines in particular their salts.
  • nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • detergent surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates or a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with alkyl amidopropyl betaines or alkyl amphoacetates or alkyl poyglucosides being particularly preferred.
  • Combinations of alkyl ether sulfates with alkylamidopropyl betaines or alkyl amphoacetates and acyl glutamates are also particularly preferred.
  • alkyl ether sulfate or a combination of alkyl ether sulfate and alkylamidopropylbetaine or the alkyl ether sulfate and alkyl polyglucoside.
  • the content of one of the plurality of detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is in the range of from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight. -%, very advantageous from 10 to 20 wt .-% is selected, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain polyisorbates.
  • Poiysorbates represent a class of compounds derived from sorbitan, a furan derivative derived from sorbitol by cleavage of two equivalents of water.
  • the hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which may be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 H, fatty acid residue
  • the cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more oil phases in addition to one or more water phases and is present for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions.
  • Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion (e.g., a PIT emulsion), a solid state emulsion (ie, an emulsion stabilized by solids, eg, a Pickering emulsion), with transparent or translucent microemulsions Particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • a microemulsion e.g., a PIT emulsion
  • a solid state emulsion ie, an emulsion stabilized by solids, eg, a Pickering emulsion
  • transparent or translucent microemulsions Particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention as aqueous solution or aqueous phase of an emulsion may also contain other ingredients in addition to water, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or -mobututyl ether, D iethylehglykolmonomethyi- o the - monoethyl ether and a nalogal P roducts, also low-C alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol and glycerol.
  • alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol
  • the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain moistening or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers).
  • moisturizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the senso ⁇ and cosmetic properties of the formulations and spielmud cause or strengthen a velvety or silky feel on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (such as. for example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).
  • antioxidants An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • water-soluble anti ⁇ oxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation , to choose.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, wherein preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, lysine, arginine, cysteine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination), imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination), peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-camosine, anserine and their derivatives (eg as salt, ester, ether, Sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -lycopene, phytoene,) and
  • chelators eg apoferritin, desferral, lactoferrin, ⁇ -hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid
  • their derivatives as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives eg ⁇ -linolenic acid, Linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives
  • ubiquinone ubiquinol, plastoquinone and their derivatives
  • ubiquinone ubiquinol
  • plastoquinone and their derivatives as salt, ester,
  • Flavonoids eg, glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid
  • furfurylidene glucitol butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguanajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside , Peptide and lipid association).
  • Uric acid and derivatives thereof mannose and derivatives thereof (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination).
  • Zinc and its derivatives eg ZnO, ZnSO 4
  • Selenium and its derivatives eg selenium methionine, Ebselen
  • stilbenes and their derivatives eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • the d derivatives according to the invention as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid Verbidung
  • active ingredients in the context of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • alpha-lipoic acid phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic Isoflavo- noide, creatine, taurine and / or ß-A! Anin.
  • Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives u ⁇ d containing such are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and Be ⁇ treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions, as z.
  • Skin aging such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity).
  • Hypo and false pigmentation eg age spots
  • increased susceptibility to mechanical stress eg cracking
  • they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • the skin soothing and nourishing substances include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (eg hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, liquorice root.
  • other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, the skin soothing and nourishing substances.
  • these include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (eg hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, liquorice root.
  • the amount of the aforementioned active substances, antioxidants, etc. (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, manure oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, manure oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • further advantageous polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of octyl palmitate, octylcoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate
  • the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z.
  • the oil component (s) is selected from the group isoeicosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritoi® 331 from Henkel), C 12 -i 3 -alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexapyrrylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous ⁇ ikomponenten are also z.
  • Butyloctyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall
  • diethylhexylnaphthalate Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer
  • the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated Polyisobutenes and isohexa decane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated Polyisobutenes and isohexa decane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in chain and / or net fashion via oxygen atoms and the remaining valencies of silicon are linked by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are distinguished by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • cyclomethicones a mini-modified silicones (INCI : Amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, e.g. B.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which as different A bil-Wax types b ei T h. G oldschmidt s available s ind.
  • other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention may also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substances authorized in accordance with the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example B - Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of the Barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications and can advantageously be surface-coated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, it being intended, for example, to form or retain a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character.
  • This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer according to processes known per se.
  • the various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described in the present invention may also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilizers may advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the titanium dioxides according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of between 10 nm and 150 nm.
  • titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa.
  • zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are distinguished by a primary particle size of ⁇ 300 nm and can be obtained from the following companies under the following commercial names:
  • Particularly preferred zinc oxides in the context of the invention are the Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and the zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer.
  • the total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation is advantageously selected from the range 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight.
  • An advantageous organic pigment in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [ INCI: bisoctyltriazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemie GmbH.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which has been sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -
  • 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ' -5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt having the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer.
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium compounds.
  • Salt which is also referred to as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).
  • UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are distinguished by the following structural formula:
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently hydrogen, C 1 -C 2O -AIRyI, C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl, or
  • R 3 is a C 1 -C 20 -alkyl radical.
  • a particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available from BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous tape filters o of the U V-B filter substances for example B is resorcinol triazine derivatives having the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of ver ⁇ branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or ein ⁇ individual hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations according to the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example, 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol )], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3 -bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy]
  • UV filter substances which are the structural motif
  • UV filter substances in the context of the present invention, for example, the s-triazine derivatives described in the European patent application EP 570 838 A1, their chemical structure by the generic formula
  • R is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • R 1 is a branched or unbranched C r C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group the formula
  • A is a branched or unbranched C r C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10,
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and one branched or unbranched C r Ci 8 alkyl, C 5 -C rest 2 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 12 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • Particularly preferred UV filter substance in the context of the present invention is furthermore an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine whose chemical structure is represented by the formula
  • Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB in Sigma 3V.
  • a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which comprises 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2 ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 I-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine sodium salt containing 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxy) phenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl- carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy]
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) which available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
  • Advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is furthermore the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1] [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] di-siloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone ⁇ and polymer-bound UV filters.
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are z. B .:
  • Particularly advantageous room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) meth
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
  • UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmeti ⁇ preparations provide that protect the hair or, the skin before ge entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen for hair or skin.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the substances mentioned above, the excipients customarily used in cosmetics, for example pigments, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts , Vitamins, minerals, antidandruff active ingredients, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents, tanning agents, depigmentation agents, pigments which have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as emulsifiers, Polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.
  • the excipients customarily used in cosmetics for example pigments, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts , Vitamins, minerals, antidandruff active ingredients, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellent
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available under the trade name Glydant TM from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company.
  • the preservation system includes Also advantageously according to the invention preserving aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya etc.
  • preserving aids such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya etc.
  • Preservatives or preservatives which are common in cosmetics are also advantageous, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 -diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
  • dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile)
  • phenoxyethanol 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate
  • 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 -diol imidazolidinylurea
  • 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one 2-chloroacetamide
  • one or more preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and more preferably 1% by weight or less % By weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation in the composition which it has on the substrate at the time of application, in the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more conditioners.
  • Conditioners preferred according to the invention are, for example, all compounds disclosed in section 4 of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th Edition, 2002)
  • the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin Conditioning Agents, Skin Conditioning Agents Emollient, Skin Conditioning Agents Humactant, Skin Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are listed as well as all in the EP 0934956 (S.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent listed compounds.
  • conditioners according to the invention represent, for example, the compounds designated as polyquaternium according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) (in particular Polyquaternium-1 to Polyquaternium-56). Conditioners preferred according to the invention can be found, for example, in the following list:
  • Further film formers which are advantageous according to the invention are cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives, in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (for example Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® from Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5).
  • cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (for example Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® from Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5).
  • nonionic poly-N-vinylpyrrolidone / polyvinyl acetate copolymers eg L uviskol VA 64W®, BASF
  • anionic acrylate copolymers eg Luviflex soft®, BASF
  • / or amphoteric amide / acrylate / methacrylate copolymers eg amphomer ®, National Starch
  • the complexing agents are selected from the group consisting of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclo- hexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions, 'Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Trisodium Etylenediamine Disuccinate.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA trans-1,2-diaminocyclo- hexanetetraacetic acid
  • vitamins, plant extracts and UV light protection filters it is advantageous to add vitamins, plant extracts and UV light protection filters to the preparation according to the invention.
  • the addition of calcium-vitamin complexes according to the invention is particularly advantageous.
  • the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises one or more individual, inherently homogeneous ones
  • Color layers or ink zones is constructed, which are adjacent to each other horizontally and / or vertically or partially mixed in marbled form or spirally present.
  • the homogeneous color layers or ink zones are advantageously formed according to the invention from the partial portions of the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously comprise further colorants and / or effect substances, for example color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances and other larger objects (generally called effect substances).
  • At least one formulation is present in the form of an emulsion.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is to be stored in a transparent, translucent and / or colored packaging and to be applied therefrom.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is stored in a bottle, squeeze bottle, pump dispenser, pump spray or aerosol can and used therefrom. Accordingly, bottles, squeeze bottles, pump dispensers, pump spray or aerosol cans containing a preparation according to the invention are also according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention as a cleansing preparation for the skin and / or skin appendages, hair conditioner or styling gel.
  • the inventive cosmetic preparation as a foamable cleaning preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as shampoo, shower gel, washing lotion and / or bath is according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic.
  • the preparation of the invention is ideal for cleaning everyday objects (eg, dishes, table and cabinet surfaces, cars, garments, laundry).
  • Formulations from Part A - Duschemulsion- can also be combined with those from Part B shower Gel.
  • One part can be colorless and one part dyed or white. It is also possible to combine clear and emulsion-like parts.

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique multicolore contenant : a) un ou plusieurs colorants pigmentaires, b) un ou plusieurs hydrocolloïdes, c) de l'eau, éventuellement d'autres additifs, des adjuvants, ou des principes actifs cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, comprenant une limite d'écoulement comprise entre 0,5 Pa et 40 Pa et un indice d'acidité totale d compris entre 0,02 et 0,8.
EP04764800A 2004-09-03 2004-09-03 Produits cosmetiques multicolores Ceased EP1796616A1 (fr)

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PCT/EP2004/009847 WO2006027001A1 (fr) 2004-09-03 2004-09-03 Produits cosmetiques multicolores

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