EP1796616A1 - Multicolor cosmetics - Google Patents

Multicolor cosmetics

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Publication number
EP1796616A1
EP1796616A1 EP04764800A EP04764800A EP1796616A1 EP 1796616 A1 EP1796616 A1 EP 1796616A1 EP 04764800 A EP04764800 A EP 04764800A EP 04764800 A EP04764800 A EP 04764800A EP 1796616 A1 EP1796616 A1 EP 1796616A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
preparation according
cosmetic preparation
advantageous
alkyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP04764800A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Stephan Ruppert
Michaela Kohut
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1796616A1 publication Critical patent/EP1796616A1/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to multicolored cosmetic preparations.
  • Cosmetic cleansing products are usually offered in the form of gels, lotions and solids (soap bars, washing synthetics).
  • Skin care products usually creams, ointments or lotions, are mostly used to moisturize and moisturize the skin. Often, agents that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g., wrinkles, wrinkles) are added to them.
  • UV-protection filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological products.
  • Cosmetic formulations are often externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, these are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring. In order to make the preparations more attractive to the user, dyes and effect substances can be added to them.
  • Cosmetic gels for example, are mostly transparent (transparent) or translucent (translucent) preparations.
  • Cosmetic emulsions e.g.
  • Products which are usually offered in transparent packaging can also be given interesting optical effects by incorporated color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances).
  • color particles color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances).
  • color particles color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances).
  • colorless detergents unattractive and boring and often consider bathing and washing to be superfluous and annoying, such formulations are particularly attractive.
  • Multicolor cosmetic preparations in particular liquid or viscous cleaning preparations, are hitherto unknown in the prior art. Because the problem is that the color effects are usually not stable over a longer period of time. In particular, the storage, transport and temperature stability leave much to be desired in multicolor preparations.
  • soluble dyes are used in a multi-colored preparation, or if only a part of the formulation is to be dyed, then diffusion of the individual ink zones of the preparation occurs. The sharp color boundaries dissolve in favor of a fluid color transition, which many consumers interpret as the preparation being unusable and "spoiled.” In general, soluble dyes are also absorbed more easily by the skin than color pigments, which results from toxicological or allergological view is usually undesirable.
  • pigmentary dyes in multicolor preparations is also associated with a number of disadvantages in the prior art.
  • these dyes can only be used in solid or highly viscous preparation forms (eg soap bars, washing synthetics, toothpaste), since the pigments sediment over time with low-viscosity preparations.
  • the fall of the particles on the bottom of the packaging is thereby accelerated by vibrations (eg during transport), so that such products lack storage and transport stability.
  • a production of stable multi-colored shower gels, hair shampoos, hair conditioners or styling gels was not possible according to the state of the art.
  • multicolored cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more pigmentary dyes, b) one or more gel formers c) water, optionally further cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, with a Yield point of 0.5 Pa to 40 Pa and a tan ⁇ of 0.02 to 0.8, to remedy the deficiencies of the prior art.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished by an unusually high stability.
  • the storage and transport stability but also the temperature stability are significantly increased.
  • Figures 1, 2 and 3 show some embodiments of the invention.
  • the yield stress of the invention is considered to be the critical shear stress of the flow curve. It can be determined according to the invention as follows: The flow curve is measured on a shear stress controlled rheometer at 25 0 C ⁇ VC with 25 mm plate / plate geometry at a gap between 0.8 mm and 1, 2 mm, which is filled structure gentle. A suitable constant shear stress time ramp is specified and a corresponding structure recovery time is maintained before the test and the critical shear stress is specified at the maximum of the flow curve.
  • a structurally gentle filling is understood to mean that the filling takes place as follows: The product is carefully removed with a spatula and inserted into the measuring instrument. The product should not be sheared in order to avoid destruction or interference with the structures.
  • a tan ⁇ is understood according to the invention to mean the quotient of the loss modulus and the storage modulus.
  • the ⁇ tan as determined follows are measured loss and storage modulus by a dynamic frequency test on a shear stress-controlled rheometer at 40 0 C ⁇ 1 ° C with 25 mm plate / plate geometry mm with a gap from 0.8 to 1, 2 mm , which is filled structure gentle.
  • the frequency test is carried out with a corresponding structure recovery time before the test and the tan ⁇ is specified in the frequency range between 0.05 rad / s and 3.0 rad / s, preferably between 0.08 rad / s and 1, 0 rad / s.
  • a flow limit of 0.5 to 20 Pa is preferred, with a yield point of 1 to 6 Pa being particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • tan ⁇ is between 0.05 and 0.6, with the range of 0.1 to 0.5 being particularly preferred.
  • the adjustment of the yield point according to the invention and of the tan ⁇ according to the invention is carried out by varying the amount of gelling agent in the formulation.
  • the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention advantageously contains one or more pigmentary dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of Preparation.
  • partial portions are understood as meaning individual portions of the preparation into which the undyed (but not necessarily colorless) crude preparation is divided, and which are dyed with different pigmentary dyes.
  • Part preparations remains uncoloured.
  • the partial portions can advantageously be identical except for the type and content of pigmentary dyes in their composition.
  • this is not mandatory since the part preparations may also have a different composition, which is preferred according to the invention.
  • pigmentary dyes which are advantageous according to the invention, it is possible to use all compounds listed from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes.
  • the preparations according to the invention may also contain other dyes.
  • advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list.
  • the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Ed., Society of Dyers and Colou ⁇ sts, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2- (4-sulfo-1 -naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2 l -azonaphthalin-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2- Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) 2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthyl
  • Titanium dioxides according to the invention which may be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications, are advantageously surface-treated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being or being retained Surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se.
  • the various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the context of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (ZrO 2 ) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
  • oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates for example of the elements Al, Si, Zr are precipitated in dense layers on the pigment surface.
  • the inorganic aftertreatment is generally carried out in an aqueous suspension of the pigment by the addition of soluble post-treatment chemicals, e.g. Aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation of the sparingly soluble in the neutral range of hydroxide by selective adjustment of the pH with sodium hydroxide solution.
  • soluble post-treatment chemicals e.g. Aluminum sulfate
  • the coated pigments are separated from the suspension by filtration and washed thoroughly to remove the dissolved salts, then the isolated pigments are dried.
  • titanium dioxides onto which aluminum hydroxide has been applied to the surface such as titanium dioxide grades C47-051 and C47-5175 available from Sun Chemical.
  • Further preferred pigments are titanium dioxides containing aluminum and / or silicon oxides arecoated, as for example from the company Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from the company Kingfisher: A310.03 Mathematics Aspen.
  • Organic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiioxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiioxane having an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • pearlescent pigments include natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
  • monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such.
  • pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica.
  • vorteihaft z For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous.
  • pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names T imiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides G limmer with other M etalloxiden b coats, such.
  • pearlescent pigments which are prepared using SiO 2 .
  • Such pigments which may also have additional gonichromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, whereby different color effects are generally caused by different coating thicknesses.
  • the pigmentary dyes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are the blue pigments listed, for example INCI: Cl 77007, Outremer Supercosmetique W 6803 from Les Colorants Wackherr, INCI: Cl 77891 + Mica + Silica, Timiron Splendid Blue from Merck.
  • mica coated with titanium dioxide and silica for example INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + silica, Timiron Arctic Silver from Merck, INCI: Mica + Cl 77891, Timiron Gleamer Flake MP-45 from Merck; alumina or silica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide, eg INCI: Silica + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Magic Mauve from Merck; eg INCI: Alumina + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Silver, with titanium dioxide and Berlin Blue coated mica, eg INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + Cl 77510, Colorona Light Blue and Colorona Dark Blue from Merck.
  • INCI Mica + Cl 77891 + silica, Timiron Arctic Silver from Merck
  • INCI Mica + Cl 77891, Timiron Gleamer Flake MP-45 from Merck
  • alumina or silica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide eg INCI: Silica + Cl 77891 +
  • pearlescent agents based on dialkyl ethers which are solid at 30 0 C and including: have the following formula: ROR 'where R and R' may be the same or different straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals this.. may consist of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms More preferably, R and R ⁇ consist of a stearyl radical. (for example, INCI: distearyl ether, Cutina STE from Cognis).
  • the dialkyl ethers used are at a concentration of about 0.1% not soluble in water at 25 ° C.
  • acylated radicals consisting of a fatty acid chain with 8 to 30
  • Carbon atoms are used.
  • Fatty acid chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ethylene glycol monostearates and ethylene glycol distearates e.g. INCI: Glycol Distearate, Cutina AGS from Cognis, INCI: Aqua + Glycol Distearate + Glycerin + Laureth-
  • opacifiers are also advantageously possible according to the invention.
  • the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocolloids / gelling agents in a concentration of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.3 to 4 % By weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Hydrocolloid is the technological abbreviation for the more correct term “hydrophilic colloid”. Hydrocolloids, also called thickeners or gelling agents, are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces that allow side and Hauptvalenz Kunststoffen between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a net-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by taking up and enveloping the water in their interwoven macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked.
  • the hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows: organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum,
  • Polymethacrylic compounds vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds such.
  • polysilicic acids clay minerals
  • Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and -propylcellulose derivatives, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds are advantageous hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention Compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, 'zeolites, silicas used.
  • Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and which, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. It is especially preferred to use (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • sodium carboxymethylcellulose also known as cellulose gum, available from Aqualon under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS.
  • xanthan also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2x106 to 24 * 106.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of xanthan.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. In this case, yields of 25-30 g / l reached.
  • the workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z. 2-propano). Xanthan is then dried and ground.
  • Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar based extract of North Atlantic, to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
  • carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%.
  • Carrageenan which is very slightly soluble in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan.
  • Carrageenan has three main components:
  • the gel-forming ⁇ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (Agar, in contrast, contains 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-galactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1, 3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1, 4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate radicals u. easily soluble in cold water.
  • the ⁇ -carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1, 3-bond and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1, 4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming.
  • Other carrageenan types are also designated by Greek letters: ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ .
  • the nature of existing cations K + , NH 4 + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators to be used in the context of the present invention.
  • Polyacryiates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention have the following structure:
  • R 1 represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 from NOVEON Inc. and Aculyn® 33 from International Specialty Products Corp. are available.
  • the hydrocolloids particularly preferred according to the invention are: acrylates copolymer (AQUA SF-1), acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymers (Carbopol ETD 2020), xanthan gum (press)
  • the ratio of the total amount of pigmentary dyes to the total amount of hydrocolloids is from 1: 100 to 1: 4, preferably from 1: 200 to 6: 1 and more preferably from 1: 300 to 1: 8 ,
  • the water content in the preparation is advantageously from 20 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight and very particularly preferably from 40 to 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously one or more. Containing surfactants. Both anionic, cationic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants can advantageously be used according to the invention.
  • washing-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamate
  • Sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • Sulfonic acids and their salts such as acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate and derivatives,
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TlPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12-1 3 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. For example, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaine are advantageous.
  • Advantageous washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the context of the present invention are advantageous.
  • Acyl / dialkylethylenediamines for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium acylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • alkanolamides such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIRA
  • anionic surfactants are taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyitaurate,
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
  • ⁇ Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, ⁇ alkyl sulfonates, for example Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, sodium Ci 2-H olefinsulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkyl amino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and N-
  • nonionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are further provided.
  • acylglutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • Acyl peptides for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
  • lauric acid for example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc cyanate,
  • Ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Ethoxylated amines in particular their salts.
  • nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • detergent surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates or a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with alkyl amidopropyl betaines or alkyl amphoacetates or alkyl poyglucosides being particularly preferred.
  • Combinations of alkyl ether sulfates with alkylamidopropyl betaines or alkyl amphoacetates and acyl glutamates are also particularly preferred.
  • alkyl ether sulfate or a combination of alkyl ether sulfate and alkylamidopropylbetaine or the alkyl ether sulfate and alkyl polyglucoside.
  • the content of one of the plurality of detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is in the range of from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight. -%, very advantageous from 10 to 20 wt .-% is selected, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain polyisorbates.
  • Poiysorbates represent a class of compounds derived from sorbitan, a furan derivative derived from sorbitol by cleavage of two equivalents of water.
  • the hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which may be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 H, fatty acid residue
  • the cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more oil phases in addition to one or more water phases and is present for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions.
  • Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion (e.g., a PIT emulsion), a solid state emulsion (ie, an emulsion stabilized by solids, eg, a Pickering emulsion), with transparent or translucent microemulsions Particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • a microemulsion e.g., a PIT emulsion
  • a solid state emulsion ie, an emulsion stabilized by solids, eg, a Pickering emulsion
  • transparent or translucent microemulsions Particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention as aqueous solution or aqueous phase of an emulsion may also contain other ingredients in addition to water, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or -mobututyl ether, D iethylehglykolmonomethyi- o the - monoethyl ether and a nalogal P roducts, also low-C alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol and glycerol.
  • alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol
  • the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain moistening or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers).
  • moisturizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the senso ⁇ and cosmetic properties of the formulations and spielmud cause or strengthen a velvety or silky feel on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (such as. for example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).
  • antioxidants An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • water-soluble anti ⁇ oxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation , to choose.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, wherein preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, lysine, arginine, cysteine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination), imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination), peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-camosine, anserine and their derivatives (eg as salt, ester, ether, Sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -lycopene, phytoene,) and
  • chelators eg apoferritin, desferral, lactoferrin, ⁇ -hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid
  • their derivatives as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives eg ⁇ -linolenic acid, Linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives
  • ubiquinone ubiquinol, plastoquinone and their derivatives
  • ubiquinone ubiquinol
  • plastoquinone and their derivatives as salt, ester,
  • Flavonoids eg, glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid
  • furfurylidene glucitol butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguanajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside , Peptide and lipid association).
  • Uric acid and derivatives thereof mannose and derivatives thereof (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination).
  • Zinc and its derivatives eg ZnO, ZnSO 4
  • Selenium and its derivatives eg selenium methionine, Ebselen
  • stilbenes and their derivatives eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • the d derivatives according to the invention as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid Verbidung
  • active ingredients in the context of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • alpha-lipoic acid phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic Isoflavo- noide, creatine, taurine and / or ß-A! Anin.
  • Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives u ⁇ d containing such are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and Be ⁇ treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions, as z.
  • Skin aging such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity).
  • Hypo and false pigmentation eg age spots
  • increased susceptibility to mechanical stress eg cracking
  • they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • the skin soothing and nourishing substances include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (eg hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, liquorice root.
  • other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, the skin soothing and nourishing substances.
  • these include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (eg hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, liquorice root.
  • the amount of the aforementioned active substances, antioxidants, etc. (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, manure oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, manure oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • further advantageous polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of octyl palmitate, octylcoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate
  • the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z.
  • the oil component (s) is selected from the group isoeicosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritoi® 331 from Henkel), C 12 -i 3 -alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexapyrrylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous ⁇ ikomponenten are also z.
  • Butyloctyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall
  • diethylhexylnaphthalate Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer
  • the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated Polyisobutenes and isohexa decane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated Polyisobutenes and isohexa decane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in chain and / or net fashion via oxygen atoms and the remaining valencies of silicon are linked by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are distinguished by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • cyclomethicones a mini-modified silicones (INCI : Amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, e.g. B.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which as different A bil-Wax types b ei T h. G oldschmidt s available s ind.
  • other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention may also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substances authorized in accordance with the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example B - Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of the Barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications and can advantageously be surface-coated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, it being intended, for example, to form or retain a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character.
  • This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer according to processes known per se.
  • the various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described in the present invention may also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilizers may advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the titanium dioxides according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of between 10 nm and 150 nm.
  • titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa.
  • zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are distinguished by a primary particle size of ⁇ 300 nm and can be obtained from the following companies under the following commercial names:
  • Particularly preferred zinc oxides in the context of the invention are the Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and the zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer.
  • the total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation is advantageously selected from the range 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight.
  • An advantageous organic pigment in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [ INCI: bisoctyltriazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemie GmbH.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which has been sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -
  • 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ' -5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt having the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer.
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium compounds.
  • Salt which is also referred to as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).
  • UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are distinguished by the following structural formula:
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently hydrogen, C 1 -C 2O -AIRyI, C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl, or
  • R 3 is a C 1 -C 20 -alkyl radical.
  • a particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available from BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous tape filters o of the U V-B filter substances for example B is resorcinol triazine derivatives having the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of ver ⁇ branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or ein ⁇ individual hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations according to the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example, 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol )], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3 -bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy]
  • UV filter substances which are the structural motif
  • UV filter substances in the context of the present invention, for example, the s-triazine derivatives described in the European patent application EP 570 838 A1, their chemical structure by the generic formula
  • R is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • R 1 is a branched or unbranched C r C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group the formula
  • A is a branched or unbranched C r C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10,
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and one branched or unbranched C r Ci 8 alkyl, C 5 -C rest 2 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 12 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • Particularly preferred UV filter substance in the context of the present invention is furthermore an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine whose chemical structure is represented by the formula
  • Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB in Sigma 3V.
  • a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which comprises 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2 ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 I-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine sodium salt containing 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxy) phenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl- carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy]
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) which available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
  • Advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is furthermore the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1] [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] di-siloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone ⁇ and polymer-bound UV filters.
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are z. B .:
  • Particularly advantageous room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) meth
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
  • UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmeti ⁇ preparations provide that protect the hair or, the skin before ge entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen for hair or skin.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the substances mentioned above, the excipients customarily used in cosmetics, for example pigments, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts , Vitamins, minerals, antidandruff active ingredients, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents, tanning agents, depigmentation agents, pigments which have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as emulsifiers, Polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.
  • the excipients customarily used in cosmetics for example pigments, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts , Vitamins, minerals, antidandruff active ingredients, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellent
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available under the trade name Glydant TM from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company.
  • the preservation system includes Also advantageously according to the invention preserving aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya etc.
  • preserving aids such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya etc.
  • Preservatives or preservatives which are common in cosmetics are also advantageous, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 -diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
  • dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile)
  • phenoxyethanol 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate
  • 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 -diol imidazolidinylurea
  • 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one 2-chloroacetamide
  • one or more preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and more preferably 1% by weight or less % By weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation in the composition which it has on the substrate at the time of application, in the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more conditioners.
  • Conditioners preferred according to the invention are, for example, all compounds disclosed in section 4 of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th Edition, 2002)
  • the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin Conditioning Agents, Skin Conditioning Agents Emollient, Skin Conditioning Agents Humactant, Skin Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are listed as well as all in the EP 0934956 (S.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent listed compounds.
  • conditioners according to the invention represent, for example, the compounds designated as polyquaternium according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) (in particular Polyquaternium-1 to Polyquaternium-56). Conditioners preferred according to the invention can be found, for example, in the following list:
  • Further film formers which are advantageous according to the invention are cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives, in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (for example Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® from Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5).
  • cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (for example Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® from Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5).
  • nonionic poly-N-vinylpyrrolidone / polyvinyl acetate copolymers eg L uviskol VA 64W®, BASF
  • anionic acrylate copolymers eg Luviflex soft®, BASF
  • / or amphoteric amide / acrylate / methacrylate copolymers eg amphomer ®, National Starch
  • the complexing agents are selected from the group consisting of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclo- hexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions, 'Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Trisodium Etylenediamine Disuccinate.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA trans-1,2-diaminocyclo- hexanetetraacetic acid
  • vitamins, plant extracts and UV light protection filters it is advantageous to add vitamins, plant extracts and UV light protection filters to the preparation according to the invention.
  • the addition of calcium-vitamin complexes according to the invention is particularly advantageous.
  • the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises one or more individual, inherently homogeneous ones
  • Color layers or ink zones is constructed, which are adjacent to each other horizontally and / or vertically or partially mixed in marbled form or spirally present.
  • the homogeneous color layers or ink zones are advantageously formed according to the invention from the partial portions of the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously comprise further colorants and / or effect substances, for example color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances and other larger objects (generally called effect substances).
  • At least one formulation is present in the form of an emulsion.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is to be stored in a transparent, translucent and / or colored packaging and to be applied therefrom.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is stored in a bottle, squeeze bottle, pump dispenser, pump spray or aerosol can and used therefrom. Accordingly, bottles, squeeze bottles, pump dispensers, pump spray or aerosol cans containing a preparation according to the invention are also according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention as a cleansing preparation for the skin and / or skin appendages, hair conditioner or styling gel.
  • the inventive cosmetic preparation as a foamable cleaning preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as shampoo, shower gel, washing lotion and / or bath is according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic.
  • the preparation of the invention is ideal for cleaning everyday objects (eg, dishes, table and cabinet surfaces, cars, garments, laundry).
  • Formulations from Part A - Duschemulsion- can also be combined with those from Part B shower Gel.
  • One part can be colorless and one part dyed or white. It is also possible to combine clear and emulsion-like parts.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to multicolor cosmetic preparations which comprise: a) one or more pigment dyestuffs, b) one or more hydrocolloids, c) water, in addition to optional other cosmetic or dermatological active substances, auxiliary agents and additives, having a yield value of from 0.5 Pa to 40 Pa and a tan d of from 0.02 to 0.8.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Mehrfarbige KosmetikaMulticolored cosmetics
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitungen.The present invention relates to multicolored cosmetic preparations.
Der Wunsch, schön und attraktiv auszusehen, ist von Natur aus im Menschen verwurzelt. Auch wenn das Schönheitsideal im Laufe der Zeit Wandlungen erfahren hat, so ist das Streben nach einem makellosen Äußeren, immer das Ziel der Menschen gewesen. Einen wesentlichen Anteil an e inem schönen und attraktiven Äußeren hat dabei der Zustand und das Aussehen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in man. Even though the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man. A significant part of a beautiful and attractive appearance is the condition and appearance of the skin and the appendages.
Damit die Haut und die Hautanhangsgebilde, hierzu zählen vor allem die Haare und Nägel, ihre biologischen Funktionen im vollen Umfang erfüllen können, bedürfen sie der regelmäßigen Reinigung und Pflege. Die Reinigung dient dabei der Entfernung von Schmutz, Schweiß und Resten abgestorbener Körperzellen, die einen idealen Nährboden für Krankheitserreger und Parasiten aller Art bilden. Kosmetische Reinigungsprodukte werden in der Regel in Form von Gelen, Lotionen und Feststoffen (Seifenstücke, Wasch- Synthets) angeboten. Hautpflegeprodukte, in der Regel Cremes, Salben oder Lotionen, dienen meist der Befeuchtung und Rückfettung der Haut. Häufig sind ihnen Wirkstoffe zugesetzt, welche die Haut regenerieren und beispielsweise ihre vorzeitige Alterung (z.B. das Entstehen von Fältchen, Falten) verhindern und vermindern sollen. Zum Schutz vor der schädlichen UV-Strahlung des Sonnenlichtes sind vielen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Produkten UV-Lichtschutzfilter zugesetzt.In order for the skin and the appendages of the skin, in particular the hair and nails, to fulfill their biological functions to the full extent, they require regular cleaning and care. Cleansing removes the dirt, sweat and remains of dead body cells, providing an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Cosmetic cleansing products are usually offered in the form of gels, lotions and solids (soap bars, washing synthetics). Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, are mostly used to moisturize and moisturize the skin. Often, agents that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g., wrinkles, wrinkles) are added to them. To protect against the harmful UV radiation of sunlight many UV-protection filters are added to many cosmetic and dermatological products.
Kosmetische Formulierungen stellen häufig äußerlich einheitliche, homogene Zubereitungen dar. Diese werden jedoch von den Verbrauchern zunehmend als eintönig und langweilig empfunden. Um die Zubereitungen für den Anwender attraktiver zu gestalten, können ihnen Färb- und Effektstoffe zugesetzt werden.Cosmetic formulations are often externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, these are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring. In order to make the preparations more attractive to the user, dyes and effect substances can be added to them.
Kosmetische Gele beispielsweise sind meistens durchsichtige (transparente) bzw. durchscheinende (transluzente) Zubereitungen. Kosmetische Emulsionen (z.B.Cosmetic gels, for example, are mostly transparent (transparent) or translucent (translucent) preparations. Cosmetic emulsions (e.g.
Duschemulsionen, die Tenside und Öle enthalten) sind meistens weiß. Um diese Produkte für den Verbraucher optisch attraktiver zu gestalten, können sie eingefärbt werden.Shower emulsions containing surfactants and oils) are mostly white. Around They can be dyed to make products more visually attractive to the consumer.
Produkten, die in der Regel in durchsichtigen Verpackungen angeboten werden, können auch durch eingearbeitete Farbpartikel, Gasbläschen, Wirkstoffkapseln, Glitterstoffe sowie andere größere Objekte (allg. Effektstoffe genannt), interessante optische Effekte verliehen werden. Insbesondere für Kinder und Jugendliche, welche die üblichen farblosen Reinigungsmittel unattraktiv und langweilig finden und Baden und Waschen häufig als überflüssig und lästig ansehen, sind derartige Formulierungen besonders attraktiv.Products which are usually offered in transparent packaging can also be given interesting optical effects by incorporated color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances as well as other larger objects (general effect substances). Especially for children and adolescents, who find the usual colorless detergents unattractive and boring and often consider bathing and washing to be superfluous and annoying, such formulations are particularly attractive.
Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitungen, insbesondere flüssige oder zähflüssige Reinigungszubereitungen, sind nach dem Stande der Technik bisher unbekannt. Denn problematisch ist, dass die Farbeffekte meist nicht über einen längeren Zeitraum stabil sind. Insbesondere die Lager-, Transport- und Temperaturstabilität lassen bei mehrfarbigen Zubereitungen zu wünschen übrig.Multicolor cosmetic preparations, in particular liquid or viscous cleaning preparations, are hitherto unknown in the prior art. Because the problem is that the color effects are usually not stable over a longer period of time. In particular, the storage, transport and temperature stability leave much to be desired in multicolor preparations.
Werden in einer mehrfarbigen Zubereitung lösliche Farbstoffe verwendet, oder soll nur ein Teil der Formulierung eingefärbt werden, kommt es durch Diffusion zu einer Vermischung der einzelnen Farbzonen der Zubereitung. Die scharfen Farbgrenzen lösen sich zugunsten eines fließenden Farbüberganges auf, was viele Verbraucher dahingehend interpretieren, dass die Zubereitung unbrauchbar und „verdorben" ist. In der Regel werden auch in der Zubereitung lösliche Farbstoffe leichter von der Haut aufgenommen als Farbpigmente, was aus toxikologischer bzw. allergologischer Sicht meist unerwünscht ist.If soluble dyes are used in a multi-colored preparation, or if only a part of the formulation is to be dyed, then diffusion of the individual ink zones of the preparation occurs. The sharp color boundaries dissolve in favor of a fluid color transition, which many consumers interpret as the preparation being unusable and "spoiled." In general, soluble dyes are also absorbed more easily by the skin than color pigments, which results from toxicological or allergological view is usually undesirable.
Auch der Einsatz von pigmentären Farbstoffen in mehrfarbigen Zubereitungen ist nach dem Stande der Technik mit einer Reihe von Nachteilen behaftet. In der Regel können diese Farbstoffe nur in festen oder hochviskosen Zubereitungsformen (z.B. Seifenstücke, Waschsynthets, Zahnpasta) eingesetzt werden, da die Pigmente bei geringer viskosen Zubereitungen im Laufe der Zeit sedimentieren. Das Absinken der Partikel auf den Verpackungsboden wird dabei durch Vibrationen (z.B. beim Transport) noch beschleunigt, so dass es derartigen Produkten an Lager- und Transportstabilität mangelt. Eine Herstellung von stabilen mehrfarbigen Duschgelen, Haarshampoos, Haarkuren oder Styling-Gelen war nach dem Stande der Technik nicht möglich.The use of pigmentary dyes in multicolor preparations is also associated with a number of disadvantages in the prior art. As a rule, these dyes can only be used in solid or highly viscous preparation forms (eg soap bars, washing synthetics, toothpaste), since the pigments sediment over time with low-viscosity preparations. The fall of the particles on the bottom of the packaging is thereby accelerated by vibrations (eg during transport), so that such products lack storage and transport stability. A production of stable multi-colored shower gels, hair shampoos, hair conditioners or styling gels was not possible according to the state of the art.
Es war daher überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorhersehbar, dass mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend a) ein oder mehrere pigmentäre Farbstoffe, b) ein oder mehrere Gelbildner c) Wasser, neben gegebenenfalls weiteren kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffen, mit einer Fließgrenze von 0,5 Pa bis 40 Pa sowie einem tan δ von 0,02 bis 0,8, den Mängeln des Standes der Technik abhelfen.It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that multicolored cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more pigmentary dyes, b) one or more gel formers c) water, optionally further cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, with a Yield point of 0.5 Pa to 40 Pa and a tan δ of 0.02 to 0.8, to remedy the deficiencies of the prior art.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zeichnen sich durch eine ungewöhnlich hohe Stabilität aus. Insbesondere die Lager- und Transportstabilität aber auch die Temperaturstabilität sind deutlich erhöht. Selbst dünne 'Farbschichten in der Zubereitung, wie sie in teilweise verrührten, marmorierten Zubereitungen oder bei Schlieren vorliegen, bleiben über einen langen Zeitraum stabil in der Formulierung erhalten. Die Abbildungen 1 , 2 und 3 zeigen einige erfindungsgemäße Ausführungsformen der Erfindung.The preparations according to the invention are distinguished by an unusually high stability. In particular, the storage and transport stability but also the temperature stability are significantly increased. Even thin color layers in the preparation, as present in partially mixed, marbled preparations or in streaks, remain stable in the formulation over a long period of time. Figures 1, 2 and 3 show some embodiments of the invention.
Als erfindungsgemäße Fließgrenze wird dabei die kritische Schubspannung der Fließkurve angesehen. Sie kann erfindungsgemäß wie folgt ermittelt werden: Gemessen wird die Fließkurve auf einem schubspannungsgesteuerten Rheometer bei 250C ± VC mit 25 mm Platte/Platte Geometrie bei einem Spalt zwischen 0,8 mm und 1 ,2 mm, wobei strukturschonend befüllt wird. Es wird eine geeignete konstante Schubspannungszeitrampe vorgegeben und vor dem Test eine entsprechende Strukturerholungszeit eingehalten und die kritische Schubspannung im Maximum der Fließkurve angegeben.The yield stress of the invention is considered to be the critical shear stress of the flow curve. It can be determined according to the invention as follows: The flow curve is measured on a shear stress controlled rheometer at 25 0 C ± VC with 25 mm plate / plate geometry at a gap between 0.8 mm and 1, 2 mm, which is filled structure gentle. A suitable constant shear stress time ramp is specified and a corresponding structure recovery time is maintained before the test and the critical shear stress is specified at the maximum of the flow curve.
Unter einer strukturschonenden Befüllung wird dabei verstanden, wenn die Befüllung wie folgt erfolgt: Das Produkt wird vorsichtig mit einem Löffelspatel entnommen und in das Messgerät eingebracht. Dabei sollte das Produkt nicht geschert werden, um eine Zerstörung oder Beeinflussung der Strukturen zu vermeiden. Unter einem tan δ wird erfindungsgemäß der Quotient aus dem Verlustmodul und dem Speichermodul verstanden.A structurally gentle filling is understood to mean that the filling takes place as follows: The product is carefully removed with a spatula and inserted into the measuring instrument. The product should not be sheared in order to avoid destruction or interference with the structures. A tan δ is understood according to the invention to mean the quotient of the loss modulus and the storage modulus.
Der tan δ wird wie folgt ermittelt: Gemessen werden Verlust- und Speichermodul durch einen dynamischen Frequenztest auf einem schubspannungsgesteuerten Rheometer bei 400C ± 1 °C mit 25 mm Platte/Platte Geometrie bei einem Spalt zwischen 0,8 mm und 1 ,2 mm, wobei strukturschonend befüllt wird. Es wird nach dem Stand der Technik der Frequenztest mit einer entsprechenden Strukturerholungszeit vor dem Test durchgeführt und der tan δ im Frequenzbereich zwischen 0,05 rad/s und 3,0 rad/s angegeben, bevorzugt zwischen 0,08 rad/s und 1 ,0 rad/s.The δ tan as determined follows are measured loss and storage modulus by a dynamic frequency test on a shear stress-controlled rheometer at 40 0 C ± 1 ° C with 25 mm plate / plate geometry mm with a gap from 0.8 to 1, 2 mm , which is filled structure gentle. According to the state of the art, the frequency test is carried out with a corresponding structure recovery time before the test and the tan δ is specified in the frequency range between 0.05 rad / s and 3.0 rad / s, preferably between 0.08 rad / s and 1, 0 rad / s.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist eine Fließgrenze von 0,5 bis 20 Pa, wobei eine Fließgrenze von 1 bis 6 Pa erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist.According to the invention, a flow limit of 0.5 to 20 Pa is preferred, with a yield point of 1 to 6 Pa being particularly preferred according to the invention.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn tan δ zwischen 0,05 und 0,6 liegt, wobei der Bereich von 0,1 bis 0,5 besonders bevorzugt ist.It is preferred according to the invention if tan δ is between 0.05 and 0.6, with the range of 0.1 to 0.5 being particularly preferred.
Die Einstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Fließgrenze sowie des erfindungsgemäßen tan δ erfolgt dabei durch die Variation des Gelbildner-Anteils in der Formulierung.The adjustment of the yield point according to the invention and of the tan δ according to the invention is carried out by varying the amount of gelling agent in the formulation.
Die erfindungsgemäße mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung enthält vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere pigmentäre Farbstoffe in einer Menge von 0,001 bis 2 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt von 0,001 bis 1 Gewichts-% und besonders bevorzugt von 0,001 bis 0,5 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention advantageously contains one or more pigmentary dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of Preparation.
Diese Mengen gelten natürlich auch für Teilportionen der Zubereitung.Of course, these quantities also apply to partial portions of the preparation.
Unter Teilportionen werden dabei erfindungsgemäß Einzelportionen der Zubereitung verstanden, in welche die ungefärbte (aber nicht unbedingt farblose) Rohzubereitung aufgeteilt wird, und die mit unterschiedlichen pigmentären Farbstoffen eingefärbt werden.According to the invention, partial portions are understood as meaning individual portions of the preparation into which the undyed (but not necessarily colorless) crude preparation is divided, and which are dyed with different pigmentary dyes.
Dabei kann es sich erfindungsgemäß als vorteilhaft erweisen, wenn eine derIt may prove advantageous according to the invention, if one of
Teilzubereitungen ungefärbt bleibt. Die Teilportionen können also erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft bis auf die Art und den Gehalt an pigmentären Farbstoffen in Ihrer Zusammensetzung identisch sein. Dies ist aber nicht zwingend, da die Teilzubereitungen auch eine unterschiedliche Zusammensetzung haben können, was erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist.Part preparations remains uncoloured. Thus, according to the invention, the partial portions can advantageously be identical except for the type and content of pigmentary dyes in their composition. However, this is not mandatory since the part preparations may also have a different composition, which is preferred according to the invention.
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte pigmentäre Farbstoffe können alle aus der entsprechenden Positivliste der Kosmetikverordnung bzw. der EG-Liste kosmetischer Färbemittel aufgelisteten Verbindungen eingesetzt werden. In den meisten Fällen sind sie mit den für Lebensmittel zugelassenen Farbstoffen identisch. Neben Farbpigmenten können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen auch weitere Farbstoffe enthalten. Vorteilhafte Farbpigmente sind beispielsweise Titandioxid, Glimmer, Eisenoxide (z. B. Fe2O3, Fe3O4, FeO(OH)) und/oder Zinnoxid. Vorteilhafte Farbstoffe sind beispielsweise Carmin, Berliner Blau, Chromoxidgrün, Ultramarinblau und/oder Manganviolett. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, die Farbstoffe und/oder Farbpigmente aus der folgenden Liste zu wählen. Die Colour Index Nummern (CIN) sind dem Rowe Colour Index, 3. Auflage, Society of Dyers and Colouήsts, Bradford, England, 1971 entnommen.As pigmentary dyes which are advantageous according to the invention, it is possible to use all compounds listed from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. In addition to colored pigments, the preparations according to the invention may also contain other dyes. Examples of advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Ed., Society of Dyers and Colouήsts, Bradford, England, 1971.
Chemische oder sonstige Bezeichnung CIN FarbeChemical or other name CIN color
Pigment Green 10006 GrünPigment Green 10006 Green
Acid Green 1 10020 GrünAcid Green 1 10020 Green
2,4-Dinitrohydroxynaphthalin-7-sulfosäure 10316 Gelb2,4-dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellow
Pigment Yellow 1 11680 GelbPigment Yellow 1 11680 Yellow
Pigment Yellow 3 11710 GelbPigment Yellow 3 11710 Yellow
Pigment Orange 1 1725 OrangePigment Orange 1 1725 Orange
2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzol 1920 Orange2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene 1920 orange
Solvent Red 3 12010 RotSolvent Red 3 12010 Red
1 -(2'-Chlor-4'-nitro-1 '-phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin 12085 Rot1 - (2'-Chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 12085 Red
Pigment Red 3 12120 RotPigment Red 3 12120 Red
Ceresrot; Sudanrot; Fettrot G 12150 RotCeresrot; Sudan Red; Grease Red G 12150 Red
Pigment Red 112 12370 RotPigment Red 112 12370 Red
Pigment Red 7 12420 RotPigment Red 7 12420 Red
Pigment Brown 1 12480 BraunPigment Brown 1 12480 Brown
4-(2l-Methoxy-5'-sulfosäurediethylamid-1'-phenylazo)-3-hy- 12490 Rot droxy-5"-chloro-2",4"-dimethoxy-2-naphthoesäureanilid4- (2 l -Methoxy-5'-sulfonic acid diethylamide-1'-phenylazo) -3-hy- 12490 Red droxy-5 "-chloro-2", 4 "-dimethoxy-2-naphthoic acid anilide
Disperse Yellow 16 12700 GelbDisperse Yellow 16 12700 Yellow
1 -(4-Sulfo-1 -phenylazo)-4-amino-benzol-5-sulfosäure 13015 Gelb1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -4-amino-benzene-5-sulfonic acid 13015 yellow
2,4-Dihydroxy-azobenzol-4'-sulfosäure 14270 Orange2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene-4'-sulphonic acid 14270 Orange
2-(2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfosäure)-1-hydroxynaphthalin- 14700 Rot2- (2,4-dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfonic acid) -1-hydroxynaphthalene 14,700 red
4-sulfosäure4-sulfonic acid
2-(4-SuIf o-1 -naphthylazo)-1 -naphthol-4-sulfosäure 14720 Rot2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid 14720 Red
2-(6-Sulfo-2,4-xylylazo)-1-naphthol-5-sulfosäure 14815 Rot2- (6-sulfo-2,4-xylylazo) -1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 Red
1-(4'-Sulfophenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin 15510 Orange1- (4'-Sulfophenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510 Orange
1-(2-Sulfosäure-4-chlor-5-carbonsäure-1-phenylazo)-2- 15525 Rot hydroxynaphthalin1- (2-sulfonic acid-4-chloro-5-carboxylic acid-1-phenylazo) -2- 15525 red hydroxynaphthalene
1-(3-Methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfosäure)-2-hydroxynaphthalin 15580 Rot1- (3-Methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfonic acid) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15580 Red
1-(4',(8')-Sulfosäurenaphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin 15620 Rot Chemische oder sonstige Bezeichnung CIN Farbe1- (4 ', (8') - Sulfosäurenaphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 Red Chemical or other name CIN color
2-Hydroxy-1 ,2'-azonaphthalin-1 '-sulfosäure 15630 Rot2-Hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid 15630 Red
3-Hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarbonsäure 15800 Rot3-hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15,800 red
1 -(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1 -phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarbonsäure 15850 Rot1 - (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850 Red
1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-5-chIor-1-phenylazo)-2-hydroxy- 15865 Rot naphthalin-3-carbonsäure1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxy-15,865 red naphthalene-3-carboxylic acid
1 -(2-Sulfo-i -naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin-3-carbonsäure 15880 Rot1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 Red
1 -(3-Sulfo-i -phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfosäure 15980 Orange1- (3-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 Orange
1 -(4-Sulfo-1 -phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfosäure 15985 Gelb1 - (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow
Allura Red 16035 RotAllura Red 16035 Red
1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfosäure 16185 Rot1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 Red
Acid Orange 10 16230 OrangeAcid Orange 10 16230 Orange
1 -(4-Sulfo-i -naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfosäure 16255 Rot1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid 16255 Red
1 -(4-Sulfo-i -naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfosäure 16290 Rot1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290 Red
8-λmino-2 -phenylazo- 1 -napnthol-3,6-disulfosäure 17200 Rot8-λmino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulphonic acid 17200 Red
Acid Red 1 18050 RotAcid Red 1 18050 Red
Acid Red 155 18130 RotAcid Red 155 18130 Red
Acid Yellow 121 18690 GelbAcid Yellow 121 18690 Yellow
Acid Red 180 18736 RotAcid Red 180 18736 Red
Acid Yellow 11 18820 GelbAcid Yellow 11 18820 Yellow
Acid Yellow 17 18965 GelbAcid Yellow 17 18965 Yellow
4-(4-Sulfo-1 -phenylazo)-1 -(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy- 19140 Gelb pyrazolon-3-carbonsäure4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-19,140-Yellow pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid
Pigment Yellow 16 20040 GelbPigment Yellow 16 20040 Yellow
2,6-(4'-SuIfO-Z1, 4"-dimethyl)-bis-phenylazo)1 ,3-dihydroxy- 20170 Orange benzol2,6- (4'-sulfo-Z 1 , 4 "-dimethyl) -bis-phenylazo) 1,3-dihydroxy-20170 orange benzene
Acid Black 1 20470 SchwärAcid Black 1 20470 Black
ZZ
Pigment Yellow 13 21100 GelbPigment Yellow 13 21100 Yellow
Pigment Yellow 83 21108 GelbPigment Yellow 83 21108 Yellow
Solvent Yellow 21230 GelbSolvent Yellow 21230 Yellow
Acid Red 163 24790 RotAcid Red 163 24790 Red
Acid Red 73 27290 RotAcid Red 73 27290 Red
2-[4'-(4π-Sulfo-1 "-phenylazo)-7l-sulfo-1 '-naphthylazo]-1 - 27755 Schwarz hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalin-3,6-disulfosäure2- [4 '- (4 π -Sulfo-1 "-phenylazo) -7 l -sulfo-1' -naphthylazo] -1 - 27755 Black hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid
4'-[(4"-Sulfo-1"-phenylazo)-7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy- 28440 Schwarz4 '- [(4 "-Sulfo-1" -phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-28440 Black
8-acetyl-aminonaphthalin-3,5-disulfosäure8-acetyl-aminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid
Direct Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 OrangeDirect Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 Orange
Food Yellow 40800 Orange trans-ß-Apo-8'-Carotinaldehyd (C30) 40820 Orange trans-Apo-δ'-Carotinsäure (C30)-ethylester 40825 OrangeFood Yellow 40800 Orange trans-β-apo-8'-carotenaldehyde (C 30 ) 40820 Orange trans-apo-δ'-carotenoic acid (C 30 ) -ethylester 40825 Orange
Canthaxanthin 40850 OrangeCanthaxanthin 40850 Orange
Acid Blue 1 42045 BlauAcid Blue 1 42045 Blue
2,4-Disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4"-bis-(diethylamino)triphenyl- 42051 Blau carbinol2,4-disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4 "-bis (diethylamino) triphenyl-42051 blue carbinol
4-[(-4-N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)-phenyl-(4-hydroxy-2-sulfo- 42053 Grün phenyl)-(methylen)-1-(N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl)-2,5- cyclohexadienimin]4 - [(- 4-N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) -phenyl- (4-hydroxy-2-sulfo-42053-greenphenyl) - (methylene) -1- (N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl) -2, 5-cyclohexadienimine]
Acid Blue 7 42080 BlauAcid Blue 7 42080 Blue
(N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzyl-amino)-phenyl-(2-sulfophenyl)- 42090 Blau methylen-(N-ethyl-N-p-sulfo-benzyl)Δ2'5-cyclohexadienimin Chemische oder sonstige Bezeichnung CIN Farbe(N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzyl-amino) -phenyl- (2-sulfophenyl) -42090 blue methylene- (N-ethyl-N-p-sulfo-benzyl) Δ 2 ' 5 -cyclohexadienimine Chemical or other name CIN color
Acid Green 9 42100 GrünAcid Green 9 42100 Green
Diethyl-di-sulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chlor-di-2-methyl- 42170 Grün fuchsonimmoniumDiethyl-di-sulphobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl-42170 Green fuchssonimmonium
Basic Violet 14 42510 ViolettBasic Violet 14 42510 Violet
Basic Violet 2 42520 ViolettBasic Violet 2 42520 Violet
21-Methyl-4'-(N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzyl)-amino-4"-(N-diethyl)- 42735 Blau amino-2-methyl-N-ethylN-m-sulfobenzyl-fuchsonimmonium2 1- Methyl-4 '- (N-ethyl-Nm-sulfobenzyl) -amino-4 "- (N-diethyl) - 42735 Blue amino-2-methyl-N-ethylN-m-sulfobenzyl-fuchsonimmonium
4'-(N-Dimethyl)-amino-4"-(N-phenyl)-aminonaphtho-N- 44045 Blau dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium4 '- (N-dimethyl) -amino-4 "- (N-phenyl) -aminonaphtho-N-44045 Blue dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium
2-Hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bis-dimethylamino- 44090 Grün naphthofuchsonimmonium2-hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bis-dimethylamino-44090 green naphthofuchssonimmonium
Acid Red 52 45100 RotAcid Red 52 45100 Red
3-(2'-Methylphenylamino)-6-(2I-methyl-41-sulfophenylamino)- 45190 Violett3- (2'-methylphenylamino) -6- (2-methyl-4 I 1 -sulfophenylamino) - 45190 Violet
9-(2"-carboxyphenyl)-xantheniumsalz9- (2 'carboxyphenyl) -xantheniumsalz
Acid Red 50 45220 RotAcid Red 50 45220 Red
Phenyl-2-oxyfluoron-2-carbonsäure 45350 GelbPhenyl-2-oxyfluoro-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow
4,5-Dibromfluorescein 45370 Orange4,5-Dibromofluorescein 45370 Orange
2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein 45380 Rot2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45380 red
Solvent Dye 45396 OrangeSolvent Dye 45396 Orange
Acid Red 98 45405 RotAcid Red 98 45405 Red
S'^'.δ'.e'-Tetrachlor^^.SJ-tetrabromfluorescein 45410 RotS '^'. Δ'.e'-tetrachloro ^^. SJ-tetrabromo-fluorescein 45410 Red
4,5-Diiodfluorescein 45425 Rot4,5-Diiodfluorescein 45425 Red
2,4,5,7-Tetraiodfluorescein 45430 Rot2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein 45430 Red
Chinophthalon 47000 GelbQuinophthalone 47000 yellow
Chinophthalon-disulfosäure 47005 GelbQuinophthalone disulfonic acid 47005 yellow
Es kann ferner günstig sein, als Farbstoff eine oder mehrer Substanzen aus der folgenden Gruppe zu wählen: 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzol, 1-(2'-Chlor-4'-nitro-1'- phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin, Ceresrot, 2-(4-Sulfo-1 -naphthylazo)-1 -naphthol-4-sulfo- säure, Calciumsalz der 2-Hydroxy-1 ,2l-azonaphthalin-1'-sulfosäure, Calcium- und Bariumsalze der 1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarbonsäure, Calciumsalz der 1-(2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin-3-carbonsäure, Aluminiumsalz der 1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der 1-(4-Sulfo-1- naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfosäure, 1 -(4-Sulfo-1 -naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8- disulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der 8-Amino-2 -phenylazo- 1 -naphthol-3,6-disulfosäure , Aluminiumsalz der 4-(4-Sulfo-1 -phenylazo )-1 -(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3- carbonsäure, 4'-[(4"-Sulfo-1 "-phenylazo)-7'-sulfo-1 '-naphthylazo]-1 -hydroxy-8-acetyl- aminonaphthalin-3,5-disulfosäure, Aluminium- und Zirkoniumsalze von 4,5-Dibromflu- orescein, Aluminium- und Zirkoniumsalze von 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein, 3',4',5',6'- Tetrachlor-2,4,5,7-tetrabromfluorescein und sein Aluminiumsalz, Aluminiumsalz von 2,4,5,7-Tetraiodfluorescein, Aluminiumsalz der Chinophthalon-disulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der Indigo-disulfosäure, 4,4'-Dimethyl-6,61-dichlorthioindigo, Komplexsalz (Na, AI, Ca) d er Karminsäure, rotes u nd s chwarzes E isenoxid ( CIN: 77 491 ( rot) u nd 77 499 ( schwarz)), E isenoxidhydrat ( CIN: 77 492), M anganammoniumdiphosphat ( CIN 77745), Ultramarin (CIN 77007) und Titandioxid.It may also be favorable to choose as the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2- (4-sulfo-1 -naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2 l -azonaphthalin-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2- Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) 2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6 , 8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, 4 '- [(4 "sulfo-1" -phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1' -naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulphonic acid, Aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt , Aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo-disulfonic acid, 4,4'-dimethyl-6,6 1 -dichlorothioindigo, complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) the carminic acid, red and black ishene oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), hydrogen peroxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), ammonium anhydride (CIN 77745) , Ultramarine (CIN 77007) and titanium dioxide.
Erfindungsgemäße Titandioxide, die sowohl in der Kristallmodifikation Rutil als auch Anatas vorliegen können, sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhaft ober¬ flächlich behandelt („gecoatet"), wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbe¬ handlung kann darin bestehen, dass die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht versehen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten.Titanium dioxides according to the invention, which may be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications, are advantageously surface-treated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being or being retained Surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se.The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
Anorganische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus Aluminiumoxid (AI2O3), Aluminiumhydroxid AI(OH)3, bzw. Aluminium¬ oxidhydrat (auch: Alumina, CAS-Nr.: 1333-84-2), Natriumhexametaphosphat (NaPO3)6, Natriummetaphosphat (NaPO3)n, Siliciumdioxid (SiO2) (auch: Silica, CAS-Nr.: 7631-86-9), Zirkoniumoxid (ZrO2) oder Eisenoxid (Fe2O3). Diese anorganischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit organischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen.Inorganic surface coatings in the context of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (ZrO 2 ) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
Hierzu werden Oxide, Oxidhydrate oder Phosphate beispielsweise der Elemente AI, Si, Zr in dichten Schichten auf die Pigmentoberfläche aufgefällt.For this purpose, oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates, for example of the elements Al, Si, Zr are precipitated in dense layers on the pigment surface.
Die anorganische Nachbehandlung geschieht im allgemeinen in einer wässrigen Suspension des Pigmentes durch Zugabe löslicher Nachbehandlungschemikalien, wie z.B. Aluminiumsulfat, und anschließende Ausfällung des im neutralen Bereich schwerlöslichen Hydroxides durch gezielte Einstellung des pH-Wertes mit Natronlauge. Nach der anorganischen Nachbehandlung werden die gecoateten Pigmente durch Filtration aus der Suspension abgetrennt und sorgfältig gewaschen, um die gelösten Salze zu entfernen, anschließend werden die isolierten Pigmente getrocknet.The inorganic aftertreatment is generally carried out in an aqueous suspension of the pigment by the addition of soluble post-treatment chemicals, e.g. Aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation of the sparingly soluble in the neutral range of hydroxide by selective adjustment of the pH with sodium hydroxide solution. After the inorganic aftertreatment, the coated pigments are separated from the suspension by filtration and washed thoroughly to remove the dissolved salts, then the isolated pigments are dried.
Besonders bevorzugt im Sinne dieser Erfindung sind Titandioxide, auf die Aluminiumhydroxid auf die Oberfläche aufgebracht worden ist, wie z.B. die von Sun Chemical erhältlichen Titandioxid Typen C47-051 und C47- 5175. Weiterhin bevorzugte Pigmente sind Titandioxide, die mit Aluminium- und / oder Siliziumoxiden gecoated sind, wie z.B. von der Firma Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 und 1075 oder von der Firma Kingfisher: A310.03 Tudor Aspen.Particularly preferred for the purposes of this invention are titanium dioxides onto which aluminum hydroxide has been applied to the surface, such as titanium dioxide grades C47-051 and C47-5175 available from Sun Chemical. Further preferred pigments are titanium dioxides containing aluminum and / or silicon oxides arecoated, as for example from the company Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from the company Kingfisher: A310.03 Tudor Aspen.
Organische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus pflanzlichem oder tierischem Aluminiumstearat, pflanzlicher oder tierischer Stearinsäure, Laurinsäure, Dimethylpolysiioxan (auch: Dimethicone), Methylpolysiloxan (Methicone), Simethicone (einem Gemisch aus Dimethylpolysiioxan mit einer durch¬ schnittlichen Kettenlänge von 200 bis 350 Dimethylsiloxan-Einheiten und Silicagel) oder Alginsäure. Diese organischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit anorganischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen.Organic surface coatings in the context of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiioxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiioxane having an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
Ferner kann es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sein Perlglanzpigmente einzusetzen. Dazu zählen natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.Furthermore, it may be advantageous according to the invention to use pearlescent pigments. These include natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
„Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und"Fischsilber" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
„Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen),"Mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells),
monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCI), Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/ Metalloxidmonocrystalline pearlescent pigments such. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl), layered substrate pigments: e.g. Mica / metal oxide
Basis für Perlglanzpigmente sind beispielsweise pulverförmige Pigmente oder Ricinusöldispersionen von Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid sowie Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid auf Glimmer. Insbesondere vorteihaft ist z. B. das unter der CIN 77163 aufgelistete Glanzpigment.The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. In particular vorteihaft z. For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner beispielsweise die folgenden Perlglanzpigmentarten auf Basis von Glimmer/Metailoxid:Also advantageous are, for example, the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide:
Besonders bevorzugt sind die von der Firma Merck unter den Handelsnamen T imiron, Colorona oder Dichrona erhältlichen Perlglanzpigmente.Particularly preferred are the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names T imiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
Die Liste der genannten Perlglanzpigmente soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhafte Perlglanzpigmente sind auf zahlreichen, an sich bekannten Wegen erhältlich. Beispielsweise lassen sich auch andere Substrate außer G limmer mit weiteren M etalloxiden b eschichten, wie z. B. S ilica u nd d ergleichen mehr. Vorteilhaft sind z. B. mit TiO2 und Fe2O3 beschichtete SiO2-Partikel („Ronaspheren"), die von der Firma Merck vertrieben werden.Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides G limmer with other M etalloxiden b coats, such. B. Silica and the like more. Advantageous z. B. coated with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck.
Es kann darüber hinaus von Vorteil sein, gänzlich auf ein Substrat wie Glimmer zu ver¬ zichten. Besonders bevorzugt sind Perlglanzpigmente, welche unter der Verwendung von SiO2 hergestellt werden. Solche Pigmente, die auch zusätzlich gonichromatische Effekte haben können, sind z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Sicopearl Fantastico bei der Firma BASF erhältlich.It may also be advantageous to dispense entirely with a substrate such as mica. Particularly preferred are pearlescent pigments which are prepared using SiO 2 . Such pigments, which may also have additional gonichromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.
Weiterhin vorteilhaft können Pigmente der Firma Engelhard / Mearl auf Basis von Calcium Natrium Borosilikat, die mit Titandioxid beschichtet sind, eingesetzt werden. Diese sind unter dem Namen Reflecks erhältlich. Sie weisen durch ihrer Partikelgröße von 40 - 180 μm zusätzlich zu der Farbe einen Glitzereffekt auf.Further advantageous pigments of Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, which are coated with titanium dioxide, can be used. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 - 180 μm, they have a glittering effect in addition to the color.
Die Farbstoffe und Pigmente können sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen sowie gegenseitig miteinander beschichtet sein, wobei durch unterschiedliche Be- schichtungsdicken im allgemeinen verschiedene Farbeffekte hervorgerufen werden.The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, whereby different color effects are generally caused by different coating thicknesses.
Die erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugten pigmentären Farbstoffe sind die aufgeführten blauen Pigmente wie z.B. INCI: Cl 77007, Outremer Supercosmetique W 6803 von Les Colorants Wackherr, INCI: Cl 77891 + Mica + Silica, Timiron Splendid Blue von Merck. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind ferner mit Titandioxid und Siliciumdioxid beschichteter Glimmer, z.B. INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + Silica, Timiron Arctic Silver von Merck, INCI: Mica + Cl 77891, Timiron Gleamer Flake MP-45 von Merck; mit Titandioxid und Zinnoxid beschichtetes Aluminiumoxid oder Siliciumdioxid, z.B. INCI: Silica + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Magic Mauve von Merck; z.B. INCI: Alumina + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Silver, mit Titandioxid und Berliner Blau bschichteter Glimmer, z.B. INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + Cl 77510, Colorona Light Blue und Colorona Dark Blue von Merck.The pigmentary dyes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are the blue pigments listed, for example INCI: Cl 77007, Outremer Supercosmetique W 6803 from Les Colorants Wackherr, INCI: Cl 77891 + Mica + Silica, Timiron Splendid Blue from Merck. Also preferred according to the invention are mica coated with titanium dioxide and silica, for example INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + silica, Timiron Arctic Silver from Merck, INCI: Mica + Cl 77891, Timiron Gleamer Flake MP-45 from Merck; alumina or silica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide, eg INCI: Silica + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Magic Mauve from Merck; eg INCI: Alumina + Cl 77891 + Tin Oxide, Xirona Silver, with titanium dioxide and Berlin Blue coated mica, eg INCI: Mica + Cl 77891 + Cl 77510, Colorona Light Blue and Colorona Dark Blue from Merck.
Perlglanz:Pearl Luster:
Bevorzugt ist auch der Einsatz Perlglanzmitteln auf Basis von Dialkylethem, die bei 300C fest sind und z.B: folgende Formel haben: R-O-R". Dabei können R und R'gleich oder unterschiedlich sein; geradkettige oder verzweigte, gesättigte oder ungesättigte Alkylradikale sein. Diese können aus 12 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen bestehen, bevorzugt aus 14 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen. Besonders bevorzugt bestehen R und RΛ einem Stearylradikal (z.B. INCI: Distearyl Ether, Cutina STE von Cognis). Die verwendeten Dialkylether sind bei einer Konzentration von über 0,1 % bei 25°C nicht in Wasser löslich.Also preferred is the use of pearlescent agents based on dialkyl ethers which are solid at 30 0 C and including: have the following formula: ROR 'where R and R' may be the same or different straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals this.. may consist of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms More preferably, R and R Λ consist of a stearyl radical. (for example, INCI: distearyl ether, Cutina STE from Cognis). The dialkyl ethers used are at a concentration of about 0.1% not soluble in water at 25 ° C.
Vorzugsweise könne auch acylierte Radikale, die aus einer Fettsäurekette mit 8 bis 30Preferably also acylated radicals consisting of a fatty acid chain with 8 to 30
Kohlenstoffatomen bestehen, eingesetzt werden.Carbon atoms are used.
Pro acyliertem Derivat ist mindenstens eine RC(=O)- G ruppe enthalten, wobei R eineAt least one RC (= O) group is contained per acylated derivative, where R is a
Fettsäurekette mit mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist.Fatty acid chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
Insbesondre Ethylenglycol Monostearate und Ethylenglycol Distearate, z.B. INCI: Glycol Distearate, Cutina AGS von Cognis, INCI: Aqua + Glycol Distearate + Glycerin + Laureth-In particular, ethylene glycol monostearates and ethylene glycol distearates, e.g. INCI: Glycol Distearate, Cutina AGS from Cognis, INCI: Aqua + Glycol Distearate + Glycerin + Laureth-
4 + Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Euperlan PK 3000 OK von Cognis, INCI: PEG-3 Distearate,4 + Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Euperlan PK 3000 OK from Cognis, INCI: PEG-3 Distearate,
Cutina TS von Cognis.Cutina TS by Cognis.
Diese werden erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in einer Konzentration zwischen 0,5% und 2% eingesetzt.These are advantageously used according to the invention in a concentration of between 0.5% and 2%.
Trübungsmittel:Opacifiers:
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft möglich ist auch der Einsatz von Trübungsmitteln. Bevorzugt werden die Natriumsalze eines Polymers aus Styrol mit einem Monomer bestehend aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure oder einem anderen Olefin und einer ihrer Ester, z.B. INCI: Sodium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Acusol OP 301 von Rohm & Haas. Diese werden erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in einer Konzentration zwischen 0,5% und 2% eingesetzt.The use of opacifiers is also advantageously possible according to the invention. Preference is given to the sodium salts of a polymer of styrene with a monomer consisting of Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or another olefin and one of its esters, eg INCI: Sodium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Acusol OP 301 from Rohm & Haas. These are advantageously used according to the invention in a concentration of between 0.5% and 2%.
Die e rfindungsgemäße mehrfarbige kosmetische Z ubereitung e nthält e in o der mehrere Hydrokolloide / Gelbildner in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 8 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt von 0,2 bis 6 Gewichts-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,3 bis 4 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthält.The multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocolloids / gelling agents in a concentration of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.3 to 4 % By weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
„Hydrokolloid" ist die technologische Kurzbezeichnung für die an sich richtigere Bezeich¬ nung „hydrophiles Kolloid". Hydrokolloide, auch Verdicker oder Gelbildner genannt, sind Makromoleküle, die eine weitgehend lineare Gestalt haben und über intermolekulare Wechselwirkungskräfte verfügen, die Neben- und Hauptvalenzbindungen zwischen den einzelnen Molekülen und damit die Ausbildung eines netzartigen Gebildes ermöglichen. Sie sind teilweise wasserlösliche natürliche oder synthetische Polymere, die in wässrigen Systemen Gele oder viskose Lösungen bilden. Sie erhöhen die Viskosität des W assers, indem sie entweder W assermoleküle binden (Hydratation) oder aber das Wasser in ihre unter sich verflochtenen Makromoleküle aufnehmen und einhüllen, wobei sie gleichzeitig die Beweglichkeit des Wassers einschränken. Solche wasserlöslichen Polymere stellen eine große Gruppe chemisch sehr unterschiedlicher natürlicher und synthetischer Polymere dar, deren gemeinsames Merkmal ihre Löslichkeit in Wasser bzw. wäßrigen Medien ist. Voraussetzung dafür ist, daß diese Polymere über eine für die Wasserlöslichkeit ausreichende Anzahl an hydrophilen Gruppen besitzen und nicht zu stark vernetzt sind. Die hydrophilen Gruppen können nichtionischer, anionischer oder kationischer Natur sein, beispielsweise wie folgt: "Hydrocolloid" is the technological abbreviation for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids, also called thickeners or gelling agents, are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and intermolecular interaction forces that allow side and Hauptvalenzbindungen between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a net-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by taking up and enveloping the water in their interwoven macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
NH2 — COOH -COO' M+ -NR2 NH 2 -COOH-COO ' M + -NR 2
NH-R O -SO3 " M+ (CH2)n NH-R O -SO 3 " M + (CH 2 ) n
I lI l
OH -NH-C-NH2 -PO3 " M2+ SO3 " OH -NH-C-NH 2 -PO 3 "M 2+ SO 3"
-CH=N-CH = N
XX
OO
Die Gruppe der kosmetisch und dermatologisch relevanten Hydrokolloide läßt sich wie folgt einteilen in: organische, natürliche Verbindungen, wie beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl,The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be classified as follows: organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum,
Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein, organische, abgewandelte Naturstoffe, wie z. B.Starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, organic, modified natural products such. B.
Carboxymethylcellulose und andere Celluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und -propylcellulose und dergleichen, organische, vollsynthetische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polyacryl- undCarboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propylcellulose and the like, organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and
Polymethacryl-Verbindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, anorganische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien wiePolymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds such. As polysilicic acids, clay minerals such
Montmorillonite, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren.Montmorillonite, zeolites, silicas.
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Hydrokolloide werden Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl, Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein, Ceiluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und -propyl- cellulosederivate, Polyacryl- und Polymethacryl-Verbindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien,' Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren eingesetzt.Agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and -propylcellulose derivatives, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds are advantageous hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention Compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, 'zeolites, silicas used.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Hydrokolloide sind beispielsweise Methylcellulosen, als welche die Methylether der Cellulose bezeichnet werden. Sie zeichnen sich durch die folgende Strukturformel aus in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methyigruppe darstellen kann.Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
Insbesondere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die im allgemeinen ebenfalls als Methylcellulosen bezeichneten Cellulosemischether, die neben einem domi¬ nierenden Gehalt an Methyl- zusätzlich 2-Hydroxyethyl-, 2-Hydroxypropyl- oder 2-Hydro- xybutyl-Gruppen e nthalten. B esonders b evorzugt s ind (Hydroxypropyl)methylcellulosen, beispielsweise die unter der Handelsbezeichnung Methocel E4M bei der Dow Chemical Comp, erhältlichen.Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and which, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. It is especially preferred to use (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.
Erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft ist Natriumcarboxymethylcellulose, das Natrium-Salz des Glykolsäureethers der Cellulose, für welches R in Strukturformel I ein Wasserstoff und/oder CH2-COONa darstellen kann. Besonders bevorzugt ist die unter der Handels¬ bezeichnung Natrosol Plus 330 CS bei Aqualon erhältliche, auch als Cellulose Gum be- zeichnete Natriumcarboxymethylcellulose.Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa. Particular preference is given to sodium carboxymethylcellulose, also known as cellulose gum, available from Aqualon under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS.
Bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner Xanthan (CAS-Nr. 11138-66-2), auch Xanthan Gummi genannt, welches ein anionisches Heteropolysaccharid ist, das in der Regel durch Fermentation aus Maiszucker gebildet und als Kaliumsalz isoliert wird. Es wird von Xanthomonas campestris und einigen anderen Species unter aeroben Bedingungen mit einem Molekulargewicht von 2x106 bis 24*106 produziert. Xanthan wird aus einer Kette mit ß-1 ,4-gebundener Glucose (Cellulose) mit Seitenketten gebildet. Die Struktur der Untergruppen besteht aus Glucose, Mannose, Glucuronsäure, Acetat und Pyruvat. Xanthan ist die Bezeichnung für das erste mikrobielle anionische Hetero- Polysaccharid. Es wird von Xanthomonas campestris und einigen anderen Species unter aeroben Bedingungen mit einem Molekulargewicht von 2-15 106 produziert. Xanthan wird aus einer Kette mit ß-1 ,4-gebundener Glucose (Cellulose) mit Seitenketten gebildet. Die Struktur der Untergruppen besteht aus Glucose, Mannose, Glucuronsäure, Acetat und Pyruvat. Die Anzahl der Pyruvat-Einheiten bestimmt die Viskosität des Xanthans. Xanthan wird in zweitägigen Batch-Kulturen mit einer Ausbeute von 70-90 %, bezogen auf eingesetztes Kohlenhydrat, produziert. Dabei werden Ausbeuten von 25-30 g/l erreicht. Die Aufarbeitung erfolgt nach Abtöten der Kultur durch Fällung mit z. B. 2- Propano). Xanthan wird anschließend getrocknet und gemahlen.Also preferred for the purposes of the present invention is xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which is generally formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2x106 to 24 * 106. Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name given to the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15-106. Xanthan is formed from a chain of β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of xanthan. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on carbohydrate used. In this case, yields of 25-30 g / l reached. The workup is carried out after killing the culture by precipitation with z. 2-propano). Xanthan is then dried and ground.
Vorteilhafter Gelbildner im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner Carrageen, ein gelbildender und ähnlich wie Agar aufgebauter Extrakt aus nordatlant., zu den Florideen zählenden Rotalgen (Chondrus crispus u. Gigartina stellata).Advantageous gelling agent for the purposes of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar to agar based extract of North Atlantic, to the Florideen counting red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
Häufig wird die Bezeichnung Carrageen für das getrocknete Algenprodukt und Carrageenan für den Extrakt aus diesem verwendet. Das aus dem Heißwasserextrakt der Algen ausgefällte Carrageen ist ein farbloses bis sandfarbenes Pulver mit einem Molekulargewichtsbereich von 100 000-800 000 und einem Sulfat-Gehalt von ca. 25 %. Carrageen, das in warmem Wasser sehr leicht löslich ist; beim Abkühlen bildet sich ein thixotropes Gel, selbst wenn der Wassergehalt 95-98 % beträgt. Die Festigkeit des Gels wird durch die Doppelhelix-Struktur des Carrageens bewirkt . Beim Carrageenan unterscheidet man drei Hauptbestandteile: Die gelbildende κ-Fraktion besteht aus D- Galactose-4-sulfat und 3,6-Anhydro-α-D-galactose, die abwechselnd in 1 ,3- und 1,4- Stellung glykosidisch verbunden sind (Agar enthält demgegenüber 3,6-Anhydro-α-L- galactose). Die nicht gelierende λ-Fraktion ist aus 1 ,3-glykosidisch verknüpften D- Galactose-2-sulfat und 1 ,4-verbundenen D-Galactose-2,6-disulfat-Resten zusammenge- setzt u. in kaltem Wasser leicht löslich. Das aus D-Galactose-4-sulfat in 1 ,3-Bindung und 3,6-Anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfat in 1 ,4-Bindung aufgebaute ι-Carrageenan ist sowohl wasserlöslich als auch gelbildend. Weitere Carrageen-Typen werden ebenfalls mit grie¬ chischen Buchstaben bezeichnet: α, ß, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, ω, χ. Auch die Art vorhandener Katio¬ nen (K+, NH4 +, Na+, Mg2+, Ca2+) beeinflußt die Löslichkeit der Carrageene.Frequently, the term carrageenan is used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract thereof. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot-water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulphate content of about 25%. Carrageenan, which is very slightly soluble in warm water; Upon cooling, a thixotropic gel forms, even if the water content is 95-98%. The strength of the gel is effected by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. Carrageenan has three main components: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (Agar, in contrast, contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1, 3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1, 4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate radicals u. easily soluble in cold water. The ι-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1, 3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1, 4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other carrageenan types are also designated by Greek letters: α, β, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, ω, χ. The nature of existing cations (K + , NH 4 + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
Polyacrylate sind ebenfalls vorteilhaft im sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende Gelatoren. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Polyacryiate sind Acrylat- Alkylacrylat-Copolymere, insbesondere solche, die aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbomere oder Carbopole (Carbopol® ist eigentlich eine eingetragene Marke der NOVEON Inc.) gewählt werden. Insbesondere zeichnen sich das oder die erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaften Acrylat-Alkylacrylat-Copolymere durch die folgende Struktur aus: Polyacrylates are also advantageously gelators to be used in the context of the present invention. Polyacryiates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of NOVEON Inc.). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention have the following structure:
Darin stellen R1 einen langkettigen Alkylrest und x und y Zahlen dar, welche den jeweili¬ gen stöchiometrischen Anteil der jeweiligen Comonomere symbolisieren.Therein, R 1 represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
Erfindυngsgemäß bevorzugt sind Acrylat-Copolymere und/oder Acrylat-Alkylacrylat-Co- polymere, welche unter den Handelbezeichnungen Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 und Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 von der NOVEON Inc. bzw. als Aculyn® 33 von International Specialty Products Corp. erhältlich sind.According to the invention, preference is given to acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, Aqua SF-1 from NOVEON Inc. and Aculyn® 33 from International Specialty Products Corp. are available.
Ferner vorteilhaft sind Copolymere aus C10-30-Alkylacrylaten und einem oder mehreren Monomeren der Acrylsäure, der Methacrylsäure oder deren Ester, die kreuzvernetzt sind mit einem Allylether der Saccharose oder einem Allylether des Pentaerythrit.Also advantageous are copolymers of C10-30-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are cross-linked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.
Vorteilhaft sind Verbindungen, die die INCl-Bezeichnung „Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acryla- te Crosspolymer" tragen. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind die unter den Handelsbezeichnun¬ gen Pemulen TR1 und Pemulen TR2 bei der NOVEON Inc. erhältlichen.It is advantageous to use compounds which have the INCl designation "acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer." Particularly advantageous are the pemulen TR1 and pemulen TR2 available from NOVEON Inc. under the trade names.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner Verbindungen, die die- INCl-Bezeichnung „acrylates/C 12-24 pareth- 25 acrylate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Synthalen® W2000 bei der 3V Inc. erhältlich), die die INCl-Bezeichnung „acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer" (unter d er H andelsbezeichnungen Acuiyn® 22 bei d er International S pecialty P roducts Corp. e rhältlich), d ie d ie I NCI-Bezeichnung „ acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Structure 2001® bei der National Starch erhältlich), die die INCl-Bezeichnung „acrylates/aminoacrylates/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer" (unter der Handelsbezeichnungen Structure Plus® bei der N ational Starch erhältlich) und ähnliche Polymere.Further advantageous compounds are those which have the INCl designation "acrylates / C 12-24 parethacrylate copolymers" (available under the trade names Synthalen® W2000 from 3V Inc.) which have the INCl designation "acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer "(available under the trade names Acuiyn® 22 from International Specificity Products Corp.), ie the I NCI designation" acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer "(under the tradenames Structure 2001® available from National Starch), which has the INCl designation "acrylates / amino acrylates / C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer" (available under the trade names Structure Plus® from the National Starch) and similar polymers.
Die e rfindungsgemäß b esonders b evorzugten Hydrokolloide s ind: Acrylates C opolymer (AQUA SF-1), Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolyme (Carbopol ETD 2020), Xanthan Gum (Kelter) Erfindungsgemäß v orteilhaft b eträgt d as V erhältnis d er G esamtmenge an p igmentären Farbstoffen zu Gesamtmenge an Hydrokolloiden von 1 :100 bis 1 :4 , bevorzugt von 1:200 bis 6:1 und besonders bevorzugt von 1 :300 bis 1 :8 .The hydrocolloids particularly preferred according to the invention are: acrylates copolymer (AQUA SF-1), acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymers (Carbopol ETD 2020), xanthan gum (press) According to the invention, the ratio of the total amount of pigmentary dyes to the total amount of hydrocolloids is from 1: 100 to 1: 4, preferably from 1: 200 to 6: 1 and more preferably from 1: 300 to 1: 8 ,
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft beträgt der Wasseranteil in der Zubereitung von 20 bis 95 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt von 30 bis 90 Gewichts-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt von 40 bis 85 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.According to the invention, the water content in the preparation is advantageously from 20 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight and very particularly preferably from 40 to 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhafter Weise ein oder mehrere. Tenside enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft können sowohl anionische, kationische, nichtionische und zwitterionische Tenside eingesetzt werden.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously one or more. Containing surfactants. Both anionic, cationic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants can advantageously be used according to the invention.
Vorteilhafte waschaktive anionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, wie ■ Acylglutamate, insbesondere NatriumacylglutamatAdvantageous washing-active anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acylamino acids and their salts, such as acylglutamates, in particular sodium acylglutamate
■ Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-Iauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlau- roylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
Sulfonsäuren und deren Salze, wie ■ Acylisethionate, z.B. Natrium-/ Ammoniumcocoylisethionat,Sulfonic acids and their salts, such as acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
■ Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfo- succinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA- Sulfosuccinat, Dinatrium PEG-5 Laurylcitratsulfosuccinat und Derivate,Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate and derivatives,
sowie Schwefelsäureester, wieand sulfuric acid esters, such as
Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TlPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C12-13 Parethsulfat, alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TlPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12-1 3 pareth sulfate,
Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA- Laurylsulfat. Alkyl sulfates, for example, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
Vorteilhafte waschaktive kationische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind quatemäre Tenside. Quaternäre Tenside enthalten mindestens ein N-Atom, das mit 4 Alkyl- oder Arylgruppen kovalent verbunden ist. Vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain und Alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain. Vorteilhafte waschaktive amphotere Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sindAdvantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. For example, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaine are advantageous. Advantageous washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the context of the present invention are
■ Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamine, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacyl- amphodipropionat, Dinatriumaikylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropyl- sulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopröpionat,Acyl / dialkylethylenediamines, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium acylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
Vorteilhafte waschaktive nicht-ionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sindAdvantageous washing-active nonionic surfactants in the context of the present invention are
■ Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIRA,■ alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIRA,
■ Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen, ■ Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte PoIy- siloxane, propoxylierte POE Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.■ Esters formed by the esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, ■ ethers, for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
Weitere vorteilhafte anionische Tenside sind ■ Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyitaurat,Further advantageous anionic surfactants are taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyitaurate,
■ Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat, Natrium PEG-7-Olivenöl-Carboxylat■ Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
■ Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat, Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium Ci2-H Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat.■ Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, alkyl sulfonates, for example Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, sodium Ci 2-H olefinsulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
Weitere vorteilhafte amphotere Tenside sindFurther advantageous amphoteric surfactants are
N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropion- säure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat und N- N-alkyl amino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and N-
Kokosfettsäureamidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinat Natriumsalze und deren Derivate.Kokosfettsäureamidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinate sodium salts and derivatives thereof.
Weitere vorteilhafte nicht-ionische Tenside sind Alkohole.Further advantageous nonionic surfactants are alcohols.
Weitere geeignete anionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind fernerFurther suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are further
Acylglutamate wie Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/ Capric Glutamat, acylglutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/ Kalium Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Kollagen sowie Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
■ beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkunde- cylenat,For example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc cyanate,
■ Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
■ Alkylarylsulfonate.■ alkylarylsulfonates.
Weitere geeignete kationische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind fernerFurther suitable cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are further
■ Alkylamine, ■ Alkylimidazole,■ alkylamines, ■ alkylimidazoles,
■ ethoxylierte Amine insbesondere deren Salze.Ethoxylated amines, in particular their salts.
Weitere geeignete nicht-ionische Tenside im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid.Further suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
Es ist vorteilhaft das oder die erfindungsgemäßen waschaktiven Tenside aus der Gruppe der Tenside zu wählen, welche einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 25 haben, besonders vorteilhaft sind solche, welchen einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 35 haben.It is advantageous to choose the detergent surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind Alkylsulfate oder Alkylethersulfate bzw. eine Tensidkombinationen aus Alkylethersulfaten mit amphoteren oder nichtionischen Tensiden, wobei eine Tensidkombination aus aus Alkylethersulfaten mit Alkylamidopropylbetainen oder Alkylamphoacetaten oder Alkylpoyglucosiden besonders bevorzugt ist. Besonders bevorzugt werden auch Kombinationen aus Alkylethersulfaten mit Alkylamidopropylbetainen oder Alkylamphoacetaten und Acylglutamaten. Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt ist es, als Tenside Alkylethersulfat oder eine Kombination a us Alkylethersulfat u nd Alkylamidopropylbetain o der Alkylethersulfat und Alkylpolyglucosid einzusetzen.Preferred according to the invention are alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates or a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with alkyl amidopropyl betaines or alkyl amphoacetates or alkyl poyglucosides being particularly preferred. Combinations of alkyl ether sulfates with alkylamidopropyl betaines or alkyl amphoacetates and acyl glutamates are also particularly preferred. It is very particularly preferred according to the invention to employ, as surfactants, alkyl ether sulfate or a combination of alkyl ether sulfate and alkylamidopropylbetaine or the alkyl ether sulfate and alkyl polyglucoside.
Es i st v orteilhaft i m S inn d er v orliegenden E rfindung, w enn d er Gehalt an e inem o der mehreren waschaktiven Tensiden in der kosmetischen Zubereitung aus dem Bereich von 1 bis 30 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt von 5 bis 25 Gew.-%, ganz besonders vorteilhaft von 10 bis 20 Gew.-% gewählt wird, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.It is advantageous in the art of the present invention if the content of one of the plurality of detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is in the range of from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight. -%, very advantageous from 10 to 20 wt .-% is selected, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Poiysorbate enthalten. Poiysorbate stellen eine Verbindungsklasse dar, die sich vom Sorbitan, einem aus Sorbit durch Abspaltung zweier Äquivalente Wasser gewonnenem Furanderivat, ableiteten. Die Hydroxylgruppen des Sorbitans sind mit Polyethylenglykolen verethert, deren Enden mit Fettsäuren verestert sein können. Sie lassen sich allgemein durch die FormelAccording to the invention, the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain polyisorbates. Poiysorbates represent a class of compounds derived from sorbitan, a furan derivative derived from sorbitol by cleavage of two equivalents of water. The hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which may be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
R1, R2, R3 = H, Fettsäurerest R 1 , R 2 , R 3 = H, fatty acid residue
darstellen.represent.
Im Sinne der Erfindung vorteilhafte Poiysorbate sind beispielsweise dasFor the purposes of the invention advantageous Poiysorbate are for example the
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitanmonolaurat (Tween 20, CAS-Nr.9005-64-5)Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 20, CAS No 9005-64-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(4)sorbitanmonolaurat (Tween 21 , CAS-Nr.9005-64-5)Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 21, CAS No. 9005-64-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(4)sorbitanmonostearat (Tween 61 , CAS-Nr. 9005-67-8)Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate (Tween 61, CAS No. 9005-67-8)
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitantristearat (Tween 65, CAS-Nr. 9005-71-4) - Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitanmonooleat (Tween 80, CAS-Nr. 9005-65-6)- polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate (Tween 65, CAS No. 9005-71-4) - polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate (Tween 80, CAS No. 9005-65-6)
- Polyoxyethylen(5)sorbitanmonooleat (Tween 81 , CAS-Nr. 9005-65-5)Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate (Tween 81, CAS No. 9005-65-5)
- Polyoxyethylen(20)sorbitantrioleat (Tween 85, CAS-Nr. 9005-70-3).Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate (Tween 85, CAS No. 9005-70-3).
Diese werden erfindungsgemäß. vorteilhaft in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 5 Gewichts- % und insbesondere in einer Konzentration von 1 ,5 bis 2,5 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung einzeln oder als Mischung mehrer Poiysorbate, eingesetzt. Die kosmetische Zubereitung, zusätzlich neben einer oder mehreren Wasserphasen eine oder mehrere Ölphasen enthalten und beispielsweise in Form von W/O-, O/W-, W/O/W- oder O/W/O-Emulsionen vorliegen. Solche Formulierungen können vorzugsweise a uch eine Mikroemulsion (z. B. eine PIT-Emulsion), eine Feststoff-Emulsionen (d. h. eine Emulsion, welche durch Feststoffe stabilisiert ist, z. B. eine Pickering-Emulsion) sein, wobei transparente oder transluzente Mikroemulsionen erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind.These are according to the invention. advantageously in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1, 5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation individually or as a mixture of several Poiysorbate used. The cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more oil phases in addition to one or more water phases and is present for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions. Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion (e.g., a PIT emulsion), a solid state emulsion (ie, an emulsion stabilized by solids, eg, a Pickering emulsion), with transparent or translucent microemulsions Particularly preferred according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung kann als wässrige Lösung oder wässrige Phase einer Emulsion neben Wasser erfindungsgemäß auch andere Inhaltsstoffe enthalten, beispielsweise Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylengly- kolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -mo- nobutylether, D iethylehglykolmonomethyi- o der - monoethylether u nd a naloge P rodukte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1 ,2-Propandiol und Glycerin. iAccording to the invention, the preparation according to the invention as aqueous solution or aqueous phase of an emulsion may also contain other ingredients in addition to water, for example alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or -monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or -mobututyl ether, D iethylehglykolmonomethyi- o the - monoethyl ether and a nalogal P roducts, also low-C alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol and glycerol. i
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhaft anfeuchtende bzw. feuchthaltende Mittel (sogenannte Moisturizer) enthalten. Vorteilhafte feuchthaltende Mittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glycerin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlactat, Butylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1 , Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moisturizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen und/oder in Wasser quellbaren und/oder mit Hilfe von Wasser gelierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Hyaluronsäure, Chitosan und/oder ein fucosereiches Polysaccharid, welches in den Chemical Abstracts unter der Registraturnummer 178463-23-5 abgelegt und z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Fucogel®1000 von der Gesellschaft SOLABIA S.A. erhältlich ist.The preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain moistening or moisturizing agents (so-called moisturizers). Advantageous moisturizing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, Füllstoffe enthalten, welche z. B. die senso¬ rischen und kosmetischen Eigenschaften der Formulierungen weiter verbessern und bei¬ spielsweise ein samtiges oder seidiges Hautgefühl hervorrufen oder verstärken. Vorteil¬ hafte Füllstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Stärke und Stärkederivate (wie z. B. Tapiocastärke, Distärkephosphat, Aluminium- bzw. Natrium-Stärke Octenylsuccinat und dergleichen), Pigmente, die weder hauptsächlich UV-Filter- noch färbende Wirkung haben (wie z. B. Bornitrid etc.) und/oder Aerosile® (CAS-Nr. 7631-86-9).The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the senso¬ and cosmetic properties of the formulations and spielsweise cause or strengthen a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (such as. for example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische An¬ wendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können wasserlösliche Anti¬ oxidantien eingesetzt werden, wie beispielsweise Vitamine, z. B. Ascorbinsäure und de- ren Derivate.Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble anti¬ oxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
Bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind ferner Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie Vitamin A und dessen Derivate.Further preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0 ,001 b is 30 Gew.-%, b esonders b evorzugt 0 ,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , based on the total weight of the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Be- reich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof, are the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation , to choose.
Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die kosmetischen Zubereitungen gemäß der vorlie¬ genden Erfindung kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoffe enthalten, wobei bevor- zugte Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien sind, welche die Haut vor oxidativer Beanspruchung schützen können.It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, wherein preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäu¬ ren (z.B. Glycin, Lysin, Arginin, Cystein, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und Lipid-Verbidung), Imidazole (z.B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Nu¬ kleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und/oder Lipid-Verbidung), Peptide wie D,L-Camosin, D- Camosin, L-Camosin, Anserin und deren Derivate (z.B. als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Thiol-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und Lipid-Verbidung), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α- Carotin, ß-Carotin, ψ-Lycopin, Phytoen, ) und deren Derivate (z. B. als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und/oder Lipid-Verbidung), ChIo- rogensäure und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Thiol-, Nukleotid-, Nu¬ kleosid-, Peptid- und/oder Lipid-Verbidung), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Liponsäure, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Di- stearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure u nd d eren D erivate ( als S alz-, E ster-, Ether-, Zucker-, Thiol-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und/oder Lipid-Verbidung) sowie Sulfoxi- minverbindungen (z.B. Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Hepta- thioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg). Ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. Apoferritin, Desferral, Lactoferrin, α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure) und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Thiol-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und/oder Lipid-Verbidung), α-Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citro- nensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Furfurylidensorbitol und dessen Derivate, Ubichinon, Ubichinol, Plastochinon und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, T hiol-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und Lipid-Verbidung), Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und seine Derivate, Vitamin D und seine Derivate, Vitamin E und seine Derivate, Vitamin F und seine Derivate, sowie phenolische Verbindungen und Pflanzenextrakte, diese enthaltend, wie z. B. Flavonoide (z. B. Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Kaffeesäure), Furfurylidenglucitol, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihy- droguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und Lipid-Verbidung). Harnsäure und deren Deri¬ vate, Mannose und deren Derivate (als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Thiol-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und Lipid-Verbidung). Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4), Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin, Ebselen), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, T rans-Stilbenoxid) u nd d ie e rfindungsgemäß geeigneten D erivate ( als Salz-, Ester-, Ether-, Zucker-, Thiol-, Nukleotid-, Nukleosid-, Peptid- und/oder Lipid- Verbidung) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, lysine, arginine, cysteine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination), imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination), peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-camosine, anserine and their derivatives (eg as salt, ester, ether, Sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene, phytoene,) and their derivatives (for example as salt , Ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid compound), carboxylic acid and its derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, lipoic acid, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, choles teryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (as salts, esters, ethers, sugars, thiols, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and esters or lipid Verbidung) and Sulfoxi- minverbindungen (eg Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, hepta- thioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to mol / kg). Furthermore (metal) chelators (eg apoferritin, desferral, lactoferrin, α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid combination), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, Linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone, ubiquinol, plastoquinone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and Lipid association), vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin D and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, Vitamin F and its derivatives, as well as phenolic verbs and plant extracts containing them, such as. Flavonoids (eg, glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid), furfurylidene glucitol, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguanajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside , Peptide and lipid association). Uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid combination). Zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO 4 ), Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine, Ebselen), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the d derivatives according to the invention (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, Nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid Verbidung) of these agents.
Weitere vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind natürliche Wirk¬ stoffe und/oder deren Derivate, wie z. B. alpha-Liponsäure, Phytoen, D-Biotin, Coenzym Q10, alpha-Glucosylrutin, Camitin, Carnosin, natürliche und/oder synthetische Isoflavo- noide, Kreatin, Taurin und/oder ß-A!anin.Further advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as. As alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic Isoflavo- noide, creatine, taurine and / or ß-A! Anin.
Erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavon- glycoside (insbesondere α-Glycosylrutin), Coenzym Q10, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate uηd dergleichen enthalten, eignen sich insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Be¬ handlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten (wie beispielsweise Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen, Juckreiz, verminderte Rückfettung (z. B. nach dem Waschen), sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis), Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten und Fältchen, lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Alters¬ flecken), vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit) und dergleichen). Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives uηd containing such are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and Be¬ treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions, as z. Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity). , Hypo and false pigmentation (eg age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking) and the like). Furthermore, they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
In die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können aber auch andere pharmazeutisch oder dermatologisch wirkende Substanzen wie beispielsweise die Haut beruhigende und pflegende Substanzen eingearbeitet sein. Hierzu zählen beispielsweise Panthenol, Allantoin, Tannin, Antihistaminika, Antiphlogistika, Glucocorticoide (z:B. Hydrocortison) sowie Pflanzenwirkstoffe wie Azulen und Bisabolol, Glycyrrhizin, Hamamelin und Pflanzenextrakte wie Kamille, aloe vera, Hamazelis, Süßholzwurzel.In the preparations according to the invention, however, it is also possible to incorporate other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, the skin soothing and nourishing substances. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (eg hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, liquorice root.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Wirkstoffe, Antioxidantien etc. (eine oder mehrere Verbin¬ dungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 G ew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung. Die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der polaren Öle, beispielsweise aus der Gruppe der Lecithine und der Fettsäure- triglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweig¬ ter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren e iner Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbe- sondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, wie z. B. Cocoglycerid, Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Man¬ delöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl, Weizenkeimöl, Traubenkemöl, Distelöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Macadamianußöl und dergleichen mehr.The amount of the aforementioned active substances, antioxidants, etc. (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation. The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, manure oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ferner z. B. natürliche Wachse tierischen und pflanz¬ lichen Ursprungs, wie beispielsweise Bienenwachs und andere Insektenwachse sowie Beerenwachs, Sheabutter und/oder Lanolin (Wollwachs).Also advantageous according to the invention are z. B. natural waxes of animal and plant origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
Weitere vorteilhafte polare Ölkomponenten können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung femer gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen sowie aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Octylpalmitat, Octylco- coat, Octylisostearat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyldodekanol, Cetearylisononanoat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n- Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethyl- hexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearyl- heptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearat, Tridecyltri- mellitat, sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie z. B. Jojobaöl.In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of octyl palmitate, octylcoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as e.g. B. jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Dialkylether und Dialkylcarbonate, vorteilhaft sind z. B. Dicaprylylether (Cetiol OE) und/oder Dicaprylyl- carbonat, beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Cetiol CC bei der Fa. Cognis erhältliche. Es ist ferner bevorzugt, das oder die Ölkomponenten aus der Gruppe Isoeikosan, Neo- pentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat/dicaprat, Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl- succinat, Butylenglykol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, Cocoglyceride (z. B. Myritoi® 331 von Henkel), C12-i3-AlkyIIactat, Di-C12-13-Alkyltartrat, Triisostearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa- caprylat/Hexacaprat, Propylenglykolmonoisostearat, Tricaprylin, Dimethylisosorbid. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen einen Gehalt an C12-15-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht.Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or Dicaprylyl- carbonate, for example, that available under the trade name Cetiol CC in the company. Cognis. It is further preferred that the oil component (s) is selected from the group isoeicosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritoi® 331 from Henkel), C 12 -i 3 -alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexapyrrylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
Vorteilhafte Öikomponenten sind ferner z. B. Butyloctylsalicylat (beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hallbrite BHB bei der Fa. CP Hall erhältliche), Hexadecylben- zoat und Butyloctylbenzoat und Gemische davon {Hallstar AB) und/oder Diethylhexyl- naphthalat (Corapan®TQ von Haarmann & Reimer).Advantageous Öikomponenten are also z. Butyloctyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall), hexadecylbenzoate and butyloctylbenzoate and mixtures thereof {Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexylnaphthalate (Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer).
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.
Ferner kann die Ölphase ebenfalls vorteilhaft auch unpolare Öle enthalten, beispiels¬ weise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweig- ten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Mineralöl, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene und Isohexa- decan. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated Polyisobutenes and isohexa decane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha- senkomponenten zu verwenden.Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
Silikonöle sind hochmolekulare synthetische polymere Verbindungen, in denen Silicium- Atome über Sauerstoff-Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Propyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind. Systematisch werden die Silikonöle als Polyorganosiloxane bezeichnet. Die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnenSilicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in chain and / or net fashion via oxygen atoms and the remaining valencies of silicon are linked by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are distinguished by the following structural formula
werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten. are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
Besonders vorteilhafte Polyorganosiloxane im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxane [Poly(dimethylsiloxan)], welche beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Abil 10 bis 10 000 bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Fer- ner vorteilhaft sind Phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Tri- methicone), cyclische Silikone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan bzw. Decamethylcyclopenta- siloxan), welche n ach I NCI a uch a ls Cyclomethicone b ezeichnet werden, a minomodifi- zierte Silikone (INCI: Amodimethicone) und Silikonwachse, z. B. Polysiloxan-Polyalkylen- Copolymere (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone und Cetyl Dimethicone) und Dialkoxydimethyl- polysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone und Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), welche als ver¬ schiedene A bil-Wax-Typen b ei T h. G oldschmidt e rhältlich s ind. Aber a uch a ndere S ili¬ konöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Cetyldimethicon, Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsilo- xan).Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are further characterized as cyclomethicones, a mini-modified silicones (INCI : Amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which as different A bil-Wax types b ei T h. G oldschmidt s available s ind. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können auch alle nach der Kosmetikverordnung zugelassenen wasserlöslichen und/oder öllöslichen UV-A-, UV-B- und/oder Breitbandfiltersubstanzen enthalten.The preparations according to the invention may also contain all water-soluble and / or oil-soluble UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substances authorized in accordance with the Cosmetics Regulation.
Dementsprechend enthalten die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vor¬ zugsweise mindestens eine UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Filtersubstanz. Die Formulierungen können, obgleich nicht notwendig, gegebenenfalls auch ein oder mehrere organische und/oder anorganische Pigmente als UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten, welche in der Was¬ ser- und/oder der Ölphase vorliegen können. Bevorzugte anorganische Pigmente sind Metalloxide und/oder andere in Wasser schwer¬ lösliche oder unlösliche Metallverbindungen, insbesondere Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z. B- Ce2O3), Mischoxide der entsprechenden M etalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden, sowie das Sulfat des Bariums (BaSO4).Accordingly, the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase. Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example B - Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of the Barium (BaSO 4 ).
Die Titandioxid- Pigmente können sowohl in der Kristallmodifikation Rutil als auch Anatas vorliegen und können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhaft oberflächlich be¬ handelt („gecoatet") sein, wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbe¬ handlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht versehen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtung können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten.The titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications and can advantageously be surface-coated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, it being intended, for example, to form or retain a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer according to processes known per se.The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
Beschriebene beschichtete und unbeschichtete Titandioxide können im Sinne vorliegender Erfindung auch in Form commerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfmittel und/oder Solubilisationsvermittler zugesetzt sein. Die erfindungsgemäßen Titandioxide zeichnen sich durch eine Primärpartikelgröße zwischen 10 nm bis 150 nm aus.Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described in the present invention may also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilizers may advantageously be added to these predispersions. The titanium dioxides according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of between 10 nm and 150 nm.
Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind besonders bevorzugte Titandioxide das MT- 100 Z und MT-100 TV von Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 und Eusolex TS von Merck und das Titandioxid T 805 von Degussa.For the purposes of the present invention, particularly preferred titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa.
Zinkoxide können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Erfindungs¬ gemäß g eeignete Zinkoxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Zinkoxidpartikeln zeichnen sich durch eine Primärpartikelgröße von < 300 nm aus und sind unter folgenden Handels¬ bezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:For the purposes of the present invention, zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are distinguished by a primary particle size of <300 nm and can be obtained from the following companies under the following commercial names:
Besonderes bevorzugte Zinkoxide im Sinne der Erfindung sind das Z-Cote HP1 von der Firma BASF und das Zinkoxid NDM von der Firma Haarmann & Reimer. Die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren anorganischen Pigmenten i n der fertigen kosmetischen Zubereitung wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich 0,1 Gew.-% bis 25 Gew.-% gewählt, vorzugsweise 0,5 Gew.-% bis 18 Gew.-%.Particularly preferred zinc oxides in the context of the invention are the Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and the zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer. The total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation is advantageously selected from the range 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight.
Ein vorteilhaftes organisches Pigment im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist das 2,2'- Methylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol) [INCI: Bis- octyltriazol], welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemika- lien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous organic pigment in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [ INCI: bisoctyltriazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemie GmbH.
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoyl- methanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird.Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which has been sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind die Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -
3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kali¬ um- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2- benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ' -5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt having the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer.
Ferner vorteilhaft sind das 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bomylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das ent- sprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1 ,4- di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird.Also advantageous are 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium compounds). Salt), which is also referred to as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).
Weitere vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind Hydroxybenzophenone, die sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnen:Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are distinguished by the following structural formula:
R3 R 3
worin wherein
• R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1-C2O-AIRyI, C3-C10-Cycloalkyl oder• R 1 and R 2 are independently hydrogen, C 1 -C 2O -AIRyI, C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl, or
C3-C10-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R1 und R2 gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können undC 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R 1 and R 2 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached can form a 5- or 6-membered ring, and
R3 einen C1-C20-AIkYl Rest bedeutet.R 3 is a C 1 -C 20 -alkyl radical.
Ein besonders vorteilhaftes Hydroxybenzophenon im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist der 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzo- phenon), welcher unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available from BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus.
Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner soge¬ nannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
Vorteilhafte B reitbandfilter o der U V-B-Filtersubstanzen, s ind b eispielsweise B is-Resorci- nyltriazinderivate mit der folgenden Struktur:Advantageous tape filters o of the U V-B filter substances, for example B is resorcinol triazine derivatives having the following structure:
wobei R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der ver¬ zweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen bzw. ein ein¬ zelnes Wasserstoffatom darstellen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl- hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist. Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die sich durch einen hohen bzw. sehr hohen UV-A-Schutz auszeichnen, enthalten bevorzugt mehrere UV-A- und/oder Breitbandfilter, insbesondere Dibenzoylmethanderivate [beispielsweise das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan], Benzotriazolderivate [beispielsweise das 2,2'-Methylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetrame- thylbutyl)-phenol)], Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und/oder ihre Salze, das 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und/oder dessen Salze und/oder das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)- 1 ,3,5-triazin, jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander. wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of ver¬ branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or ein¬ individual hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH. Particularly advantageous preparations according to the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example, 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol )], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3 -bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, individually or in any combination with each other.
Auch andere UV-Filtersubstanzen, welche das StrukturmotivOther UV filter substances, which are the structural motif
aufweisen, sind vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, beispielsweise die in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1 beschriebe¬ nen s-Triazinderivate, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel are advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention, for example, the s-triazine derivatives described in the European patent application EP 570 838 A1, their chemical structure by the generic formula
wiedergegeben wird, wobei R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC^-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen, dar¬ stellt, is reproduced, wherein R is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
X ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe darstellt,X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R1 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der FormelR 1 is a branched or unbranched C r C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group the formula
bedeutet, in welcher means in which
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cyclo- alkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehre¬ ren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen,A is a branched or unbranched C r C 18 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC^-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkyi- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen, dar¬ stellt, wenn X die NH-Gruppe darstellt, und einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrCi8-Alkylrest, einen C5-Ci2-Cycloalkyl- rest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der FormelR 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and one branched or unbranched C r Ci 8 alkyl, C 5 -C rest 2 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
bedeutet, in welcher means in which
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten CrC-is-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cyclo- alkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehre¬ ren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen,A is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 12 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt, wenn X ein Sauerstoffatom darstellt.R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
Besonders bevorzugte UV-Filtersubstanz im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist femer ein unsymmetrisch substituiertes s-Triazin, dessen chemische Struktur durch die FormelParticularly preferred UV filter substance in the context of the present invention is furthermore an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine whose chemical structure is represented by the formula
wiedergegeben wird, welches im Folgenden auch als Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) bezeichnet wird und unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist. which is also referred to below as Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB in Sigma 3V.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist auch ein symmetrisch substituiertes s- Triazin, das 4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexyl- ester), synonym: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2I-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Octyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.Also advantageous in the context of the present invention is a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which comprises 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2 ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 I-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
Auch in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift 775 698 werden bevorzugt einzusetzende Bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate beschrieben, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel wiedergegeben wird, wobei R1 , R2 und A1 verschiedenste organische Reste repräsen¬ tieren.Also in the European patent application 775,698 preferred bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate be described whose chemical structure by the generic formula is reproduced, wherein R 1 , R 2 and A 1 various organic radicals represenen¬ animals.
5 Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-sulfonato)- 2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin Natriumsalz, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-Propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy- phenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-meth- oxyethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine sodium salt containing 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxy) phenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl- carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy]
10 propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-ethyl-carboxyl)-phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazin, d as 2 ,4- Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(1 -methyl-pyrrol-2-yl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-tris(thmethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)- 1 ,3,5-triazin, das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2"-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy- phenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin und das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(1',1 M ',3',5'I5'I5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2"-methyl-10-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2, 4-bis - {[4- (2 -ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (thmethylsiloxy -silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1 M', 3 ', 5' I 5 ' I 5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-
15 propyloxy)-2~hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin.15-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine.
Ein vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist das 2,2'-Methylen- bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) which available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.
20. Vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist femer das 2-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]di- siloxanyl]propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Drometrizole Trisiloxane.20. Advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is furthermore the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1] [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] di-siloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
25 Die UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Vorteilhafte öllösliche UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:25 The UV-B and / or broadband filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are, for. B .:
3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher; ■ 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; ■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
■ 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin;2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhe- xyl)ester;Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
■ Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Meth- oxyzimtsäureisopentylester;Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
■ Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon ■ sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone ■ and polymer-bound UV filters.
Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are z. B .:
Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri- ethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst; ■ Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenme- thyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2 -Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze. salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, and the sulphonic acid itself; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme- thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Besonders vorteilhafte bei Raumtemperatur f lüssige UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Homomenthylsalicylat (INCI: Homosalate), 2-Ethylhexyl-2- hydroxybenzoat (2-Ethylhexylsalicylat, Octylsalicylat, INCI: Octyl Salicylate), 4- Isopropylbenzylsalicylat und Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester (2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamat, INCI: Octyl Methoxycinnamate) und 4- Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester (lsopentyl-4-methoxycinnamat, INCI: Isoamyl p-Meth- oxycinnamate), 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/ Dimethylsiloxan - C opolymer (INCI: Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonat) welches beispiels¬ weise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.Particularly advantageous room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer (INCI: dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate) which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.
Eine weiterere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Lichtschutzfiltersubstanz ist das Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul® N 539 erhältlich ist. Es kann auch von erheblichem Vorteil sein, polymergebundene oder polymere UV-Filter¬ substanzen in Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, insbe¬ sondere solche, wie sie in der WO-A-92/20690 beschrieben werden.A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of said UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
Vorteilhaft enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen die Substanzen, die UV- Strahlung im UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, in einer Gesamtmenge von z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 15,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmeti¬ sche Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw., die Haut vor dem ge¬ samten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnen¬ schutzmittel fürs Haar oder die Haut dienen.Advantageously, the preparations according to the invention contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmeti ¬ preparations provide that protect the hair or, the skin before ge entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen for hair or skin.
Die Zusammensetzungen enthalten gemäß der Erfindijng außer den vorgenannten Sub¬ stanzen g egebenenfalls d ie i n d er Kosmetik ü blichen Z usatzstoffe, b eispielsweise P ar¬ füm, Farbstoffe, antimikrobielle Stoffe, rückfettende Agentien, Komplexierungs- und Se- questrierungsagentien, Perlglanzagentien, weitere Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Mineralien, Antischuppenwirkstoffe, Wirkstoffe, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Repellenten, Selbtbräuner, Depigmentierungsmittel, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulie¬ rung wie Emulgatoren, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren und Elektrolyte.The compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the substances mentioned above, the excipients customarily used in cosmetics, for example pigments, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts , Vitamins, minerals, antidandruff active ingredients, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, repellents, tanning agents, depigmentation agents, pigments which have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as emulsifiers, Polymers, foam stabilizers and electrolytes.
Die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung kann erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere Konservierungsstoffe enthalten. Vorteilhafte Konservierungsstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Formaldehydabspalter (wie z. B. DMDM Hydantoin, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Glydant ™ von der Fa. Lonza erhältlich ist), lodopropylbutylcarbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealkylester, wie Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr. Üblicherweise umfaßt das Konservierungssystem erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft auch Konservierungshelfer, wie beispielsweise Octoxyglycerin, Glycine Soja etc. Die nachfolgende Tabelle gibt einen Überblick über einige erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Konservierungsstoffe:According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available under the trade name Glydant ™ from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company. Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-Hydroxybenzoesäurealkylester, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system includes Also advantageously according to the invention preserving aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya etc. The following table provides an overview of some preservatives which are advantageous according to the invention:
Ferner vorteilhaft sind in der Kosmetik gebräuchliche Konservierungsmittel oder Konser- vierungshilfsstoffe, wie Dibromdicyanobutan (2-Brom-2-brommethylglutarodinitril), Phen- oxyethanol, 3-lod-2-propinylbutylcarbamat, 2-Brom-2-nitro-propan-1 ,3-diol, Imidazolidinyl- hamstoff, 5-Chlor-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on, 2-Chloracetamid, Benzalkoniumchlorid, Benzylalkohol.Preservatives or preservatives which are common in cosmetics are also advantageous, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3 -diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol.
Es ist dabei erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt, wenn als Konservierungsstoffe Benzoesäure und/oder Salicylsäure und/oder deren. Derivate oder Salze eingesetzt werden.It is particularly preferred according to the invention if as preservatives benzoic acid and / or salicylic acid and / or their. Derivatives or salts are used.
Parabene und Mischungen mit Phenoxethanol / DMDM Hydantoin werden erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt.Parabens and mixtures with phenoxethanol / DMDM hydantoin are preferred according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ein oder mehrere Konservierungsstoffe in einer Konzentration von 2 Gewichts-% oder kleiner 2 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt 1 ,5 Gewichts-% oder kleiner 1 ,5 Gewichts-% und besonders bevorzugt 1 Gewichts-% oder kleiner 1 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung in der Zusammensetztung welche diese zum Zeitpunkt des Auftragens auf das Substrat aufweist, in der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung enthalten.According to the invention, one or more preservatives are advantageous in a concentration of 2% by weight or less than 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight or less than 1.5% by weight and more preferably 1% by weight or less % By weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation in the composition which it has on the substrate at the time of application, in the preparation according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthalten vorteilhafter Weise einen oder mehrere Konditionierer. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Konditionierer sind beispielsweise alle Verbindungen, welche im International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, Herausgeber: R. C. Pepe, J.A. Wenninger, G. N. McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9. Auflage, 2002) unter Section 4 unter den Stichworten Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin- Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive und Skin Protectans aufgeführt sind sowie alle in der EP 0934956 (S.11-13) unter water soluble conditioning agent und oil soluble conditioning agent aufgeführten Verbindungen. Ein Teil dieser Verbindungen wird unter den Bestandteilen der wässrigen Phase und der Ölphase namentlich aufgeführt. Weitere erfindungsgemäß vprteilhafte Konditionierer stellen beispielsweise die nach der internationalen Nomenklatur für kosmetische Inhaltsstoffe (INCI) als Polyquatemium benannten Verbindungen dar (insbesondere Polyquatemium-1 bis Polyquaternium-56). Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Konditionierer sind beispielsweise der folgenden Aufstellung zu entnehmen:The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more conditioners. Conditioners preferred according to the invention are, for example, all compounds disclosed in section 4 of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th Edition, 2002) The keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin Conditioning Agents, Skin Conditioning Agents Emollient, Skin Conditioning Agents Humactant, Skin Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are listed as well as all in the EP 0934956 (S.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent listed compounds. Some of these compounds are listed by name among the components of the aqueous phase and the oil phase. Further conditioners according to the invention represent, for example, the compounds designated as polyquaternium according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) (in particular Polyquaternium-1 to Polyquaternium-56). Conditioners preferred according to the invention can be found, for example, in the following list:
Weitere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Filmbildner stellen Cellulosederivate und quatemisierte Guar Gum Derivate, insbesondere Guar Hydroxypropylammoniumchlorid (z.B. Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® der Firma Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421- 75-5) dar. Further film formers which are advantageous according to the invention are cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives, in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (for example Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® from Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5).
Auch n ichtionische P oly-N-vinylpyrrolidon/Polyvinylacetat-Copolymere (z.B. L uviskol VA 64W®, BASF), anionische Acrylat-Copolymere (z.B. Luviflex soft®, BASF), und/oder amphotere Amid/Acrylat/Methacrylat Copolymere (z.B. Amphomer®, National Starch) können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft als Filmbildner eingesetzt werden.Also nonionic poly-N-vinylpyrrolidone / polyvinyl acetate copolymers (eg L uviskol VA 64W®, BASF), anionic acrylate copolymers (eg Luviflex soft®, BASF), and / or amphoteric amide / acrylate / methacrylate copolymers (eg amphomer ®, National Starch) can be advantageously used according to the invention as a film former.
Es ist auch von Vorteil, den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Komplexbildner zuzu¬ setzen. Vorteilhaft werden die Komplexbildner gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Ethylendiamintetraessigsäure (EDTA) und deren Anionen, Nitrilotriessigsäure (NTA) und deren Anionen, Hydroxyethylendiaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) und deren Anionen, Diethylenaminopentaessigsäure (DPTA) und deren Anionen, trans-1 ,2-Diaminocyclo- hexantetraessigsäure (CDTA) und deren Anionen,' Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Trisodium Etylenediamine Disuccinate.It is also advantageous to add complexing agents to the preparations according to the invention. Advantageously, the complexing agents are selected from the group consisting of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclo- hexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions, 'Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Trisodium Etylenediamine Disuccinate.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß von Vorteil der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung Vitamine, Pflanzenextrakte und UV-Lichtschutzfilter zuzusetzen. So ist beispielsweise der Zusatz von Calcium-Vitamin-Komplexen erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft.According to the invention, it is advantageous to add vitamins, plant extracts and UV light protection filters to the preparation according to the invention. Thus, for example, the addition of calcium-vitamin complexes according to the invention is particularly advantageous.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäße mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung aus einer oder mehreren einzelnen, in sich homogenenIt is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the multicolored cosmetic preparation according to the invention comprises one or more individual, inherently homogeneous ones
Farbschichten beziehungsweise Farbzonen aufgebaut ist, die horizontal und/oder vertikal aneinander angrenzen oder teilweise vermischt in marmorierter Form oder spiralförmig vorliegen. Die homogenen Farbschichten beziehungsweise Farbzonen werden dabei erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft aus den erfindungsgemäßen Teilportionen der Zubereitung gebildet.Color layers or ink zones is constructed, which are adjacent to each other horizontally and / or vertically or partially mixed in marbled form or spirally present. The homogeneous color layers or ink zones are advantageously formed according to the invention from the partial portions of the preparation according to the invention.
Es ist also erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn das teilweise verrühren erfindungsgemäßer mehrfarbiger Zubereitungen zu marmoriert und schlierenartig aussehenden Produkten führt, wobei die Farbareale sind sichtbar voneinander getrennt sind. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft kann die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung weitere Farb- und/oder Effektstoffe enthalten, beispielsweise Farbpartikel, Gasbläschen, Wirkstoff- kapseln, Glitterstoffe sowie andere größere Objekte (allg. Effektstoffe genannt).It is thus preferred according to the invention if the partially mixing of multicolored preparations according to the invention leads to marbled and streaky-looking products, the color bars being visibly separated from one another. According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously comprise further colorants and / or effect substances, for example color particles, gas bubbles, active ingredient capsules, glitter substances and other larger objects (generally called effect substances).
Es ist ferner erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn mindestens eine Formulierung in Form einer Emulsion vorliegt.It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if at least one formulation is present in the form of an emulsion.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es, die erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Zubereitung in einer transparenten, transluzent und/oder eingefärbten Verpackung aufzubewahren und aus dieser heraus anzuwenden.According to the invention, the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is to be stored in a transparent, translucent and / or colored packaging and to be applied therefrom.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Zubereitung in einer Flasche, Quetschflasche, Pumpspender, Pumpspray-, oder Aerosoldose aufbewahrt und aus dieser heraus angewendet werden. Entsprechend sind auch Flaschen, Quetschflaschen, Pumpspender, Pumpspray-, oder Aerosoldosen, welche eine erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung enthalten, erfindungsgemäß.It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is stored in a bottle, squeeze bottle, pump dispenser, pump spray or aerosol can and used therefrom. Accordingly, bottles, squeeze bottles, pump dispensers, pump spray or aerosol cans containing a preparation according to the invention are also according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß ist die Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung als Reinigungszubereitung für die Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilde, als Haarkur oder als Stylinggel.According to the invention, the use of the preparation according to the invention as a cleansing preparation for the skin and / or skin appendages, hair conditioner or styling gel.
Erfindungsgemäß ist die Verwendung der erfindungesgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitung als schäumbare Reinigungszubereitung.According to the invention, the use of the inventive cosmetic preparation as a foamable cleaning preparation.
Insbesondere ist die Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitung als Haarwaschmittel, Duschgel, Waschlotion und/oder Wannenbad erfindungsgemäß.In particular, the use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention as shampoo, shower gel, washing lotion and / or bath is according to the invention.
Außerdem kann die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft als Hautpflegeprodukt oder dekoratives Kosmetikum verwendet werden. Darüber hinaus eignet sich die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung hervorragend zur Reinigung von Gegenständen des täglichen Lebens (z.B. Geschirr, Tisch- und Schrankflächen, Autos, Kleidungsstücke, Wäsche).In addition, according to the invention, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used as a skin care product or decorative cosmetic. In addition, the preparation of the invention is ideal for cleaning everyday objects (eg, dishes, table and cabinet surfaces, cars, garments, laundry).
Die folgenden Beispiele sollen die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen erläutern, ohne dass aber beabsichtigt ist, die Erfindung auf diese Beispiele zu beschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions of the invention, without, however, intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
Es k önnen d abei B eispielrezepturen a us d em Rezepturteil A - Duschemulsion- b eliebig miteinander kombiniert werden, um die beschriebenen Effekte zu erzielen. Ebenso dieFrom the recipe formulas a to the recipe judgment A - Duschemulsion- b can be combined with each other in order to achieve the described effects. Likewise the
Rezepturen aus dem Rezepturteil B -Duschgel-. Der Anteil der Rezepturen muss dabei nicht gleich sein.Recipes from the prescription B shower gel. The proportion of the recipes does not have to be the same.
Rezepturen aus dem Teil A - Duschemulsion- können auch mit denen aus dem Teil B- Duschgel- kombiniert werden.Formulations from Part A - Duschemulsion- can also be combined with those from Part B Shower Gel.
Ein Teil kann farblos und ein Teil eingefärbt oder weiß sein. Es können auch klare und emulsionsartige Teile kombiniert werden.One part can be colorless and one part dyed or white. It is also possible to combine clear and emulsion-like parts.
Ebenso können Anteile aus dem Rezepturteil C - Styling Gele- beliebig mit Rezepturen aus dem Teil D - Styling Gele kombiniert werden. _ It is also possible to combine parts from the prescription C - Styling Gele - any with formulations from Part D - Styling Gel. _
Rezepturteil A- Duschemulsion-Recipe judgment A- Duschem emulsion-
Rezepturteil C - Styling Gel- Recipe C - Styling Gel
Rezepturteil D - Styling Gel-Recipe D - Styling Gel

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend a) ein oder mehrere pigmentäre Farbstoffe, b) ein oder mehrere Hydrokolloide, c) Wasser, neben gegebenenfalls weiteren kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirk-, Hilfs¬ und Zusatzstoffen, mit einer Fließgrenze von 0,5 Pa bis 40 Pa sowie einem tan δ von 0,02 bis 0,8. 1. A multicolored cosmetic preparation comprising a) one or more pigmentary dyes, b) one or more hydrocolloids, c) water, optionally further cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, with a yield strength of 0.5 Pa to 40 Pa and a tan δ of 0.02 to 0.8.
2. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere pigmentäre Farbstoffe in einer Menge von 0,001 bis 2 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, enthält.2. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains one or more pigmentary dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
3. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere Hydrokolloide in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 8 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthält.3. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains one or more hydrocolloids in a concentration of 0.1 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
4. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch ι gekennzeichnet, dass als Hydrokolloide Acrylates Copolymer (AQUA SF-1), Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolyme (Carbopol ETD 2020) und/oder Xanthan Gum (Kelter) eingesetzt werden. 4. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that ι as hydrocolloids acrylates copolymer (AQUA SF-1), acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates cross-polymers (Carbopol ETD 2020) and / or xanthan gum (Kelter ) are used.
5. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet,, dass sie ein oder mehrere anionische, kationische, nichtionische und/oder amphotere Tenside enthält.5. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains one or more anionic, cationic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.
6. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein oder mehrere Tenside in einer Konzentration 1 von bis 30 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, enthält.6. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains one or more surfactants in a concentration of 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
7. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Tenside Alkylsulfate oder Alkylethersulfate bzw. eine Tensidkombinationen aus Alkylethersulfaten mit amphoteren oder nichtionischen Tensiden eingesetzt werden. 7. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the surfactants used are alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates or a surfactant combination of alkyl ether sulfates with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.
8. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Tenside Alkylethersulfat oder eine Kombination aus Alkylethersulfat und Alkylamidopropylbetain oder eine Kombination aus Alkylethersulfat und Alkylpolyglucosid eingesetzt werden. 8. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that are used as surfactants alkyl ether sulfate or a combination of alkyl ether sulfate and Alkylamidopropylbetain or a combination of alkyl ether sulfate and alkyl polyglucoside.
9. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie aus einer oder mehreren einzelnen, in sich homogenen Farbschichten beziehungsweise Farbzonen aufgebaut ist, die horizontal und/oder vertikal oder spiralförmig aneinander angrenzen oder teilweise vermischt in marmorierter Form vorliegen, wobei die Farbareale sind sichtbar voneinander getrennt sind.9. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it consists of one or more individual, homogeneous in itself Color layers or ink zones is constructed, which are adjacent to each other horizontally and / or vertically or spirally or partially mixed in marbled form, wherein the Farbareale are visibly separated from each other.
10. Mehrfarbige kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie in einer transparenten, transluzenten und/oder eingefärbten Verpackung aufbewahrt und aus dieser heraus angewendet wird.10. Multicolor cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is stored in a transparent, translucent and / or colored packaging and applied out of this.
11. Verwendung einer mehrfarbigen kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10 als Reinigungszubereitung für die Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilde. 11. Use of a multicolored cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 10 as a cleansing preparation for the skin and / or skin appendages.
EP04764800A 2004-09-03 2004-09-03 Multicolor cosmetics Ceased EP1796616A1 (en)

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