EP1788150B1 - Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Textilsubstraten aus Wolle - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Textilsubstraten aus Wolle Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1788150B1
EP1788150B1 EP06124188A EP06124188A EP1788150B1 EP 1788150 B1 EP1788150 B1 EP 1788150B1 EP 06124188 A EP06124188 A EP 06124188A EP 06124188 A EP06124188 A EP 06124188A EP 1788150 B1 EP1788150 B1 EP 1788150B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
printing
paste
felting
process according
areas
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP06124188A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1788150A3 (de
EP1788150A2 (de
Inventor
Paolo Lenzi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Stamperia Altair Srl
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Stamperia Altair Srl
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Application filed by Stamperia Altair Srl filed Critical Stamperia Altair Srl
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
    • D06P1/5285—Polyurethanes; Polyurea; Polyguanides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/12—Reserving parts of the material before dyeing or printing ; Locally decreasing dye affinity by chemical means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/02—Producing patterns by locally destroying or modifying the fibres of a web by chemical actions, e.g. making translucent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/08—Decorating textiles by fixation of mechanical effects, e.g. calendering, embossing or Chintz effects, using chemical means

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns the field of textile production. More specifically, it concerns a new process for obtaining peculiar surface designs through printing on woolen or wool-mixed textile materials.
  • Textile printing in general terms, consists of applying printing pastes - containing dyes or pigments - to manufactured textile products. This step is followed by one or more stabilization steps, comprising physical and/or chemical treatments having the purpose of stably and locally fixing the dying substances.
  • stabilization steps comprising physical and/or chemical treatments having the purpose of stably and locally fixing the dying substances.
  • the felting is sometimes exploited to confer to the fabric or manufactured garment a desired degree of compactness, by means of a controlled felting, wet finishing step named "milling".
  • the felting is in other cases a phenomenon that one wishes to avoid, or at least to control, to the very purpose that the woolen fabric will preserve its features of distension, smoothness and clearness of the weave design.
  • the maintenance of woolen garments, involving a number of subsequent machine washing treatments, due to the previously mentioned conditions of humidity, temperature and mechanical friction, may easily cause an uncontrolled felting of the garment, with the consequent impossibility of using the article any longer, because of an excessive shrink and/or compacting, as well as of an irregular increase of the surface hairiness.
  • the decaying methods consist in an oxidation attack of the wool cuticle, so as to diminish the surface friction properties.
  • the decaying action is obtained by using chlorine gas dissolved in water, hypochlorites, or organic products that are capable of liberating chlorine in gradual manner (e.g. dichloroisocyanuric acid - Basolan ® ).
  • the additive methods consist in treatments with preformed polymers, generally applied to the fabric via immersion in a foulard machine and subsequently reticulated by means of the chemical action of catalysts and/o heat.
  • the commonly used polymers are polyurethanes, polyethers, polyacrilates, and silicon-derived agents.
  • the application of the polymers brings about a lining of the wool fibers and scales with a film that, also in this case, decreases the surface friction between the fibers and thus prevents and/or reduces the felting of woolen articles undergoing aqueous treatments in heat conditions.
  • the mixed methods are sometimes used by associating the decaying action of oxidating products (e.g. Basolan ® ) with the scale protective action performed by the above mentioned film-developing resins.
  • oxidating products e.g. Basolan ®
  • JP 100 53978 and JP 62085086 Further known methods according to the preamble of claim 1 are disclosed in JP 100 53978 and JP 62085086 .
  • the process according to the invention consists in applying printing pastes containing high concentrations of anti-felting polyurethane resins, possibly colored via pigments or other dyeing substances of different dyeing nature (acid, premetallized, reactive, direct, basic and disperse dyes), in combination with traditional printing pastes, colored or not. It is also possible to combine printed design patterns with anti-felting characteristics and printed design patterns obtained with resist printing and/or corrosion printing, as well as to obtain the superimposition of two or more design patterns, of which at least one defined by the shape of unfelted areas. The effect deriving by the contrast of differently felted areas is activated further to the milling step carried out after the printing step.
  • the process can be applied on textile substrates consisting of woven or knitted fabrics or of manufactured garments, of a woolen nature, that is to say made of wool or wool-mixed.
  • These substrates can be in a raw condition, or bated or even partially milled and dyed.
  • the sequence of the processing steps can be considered, per se, analogous to a conventional direct printing process. Therefore, first of all there is a preparation step of the printing paste or pastes, and the carrying out of one or more printing runs (application, corrosion and/or resist printing), as will be clarified further hereafter. At least one of the printing pastes contains an anti-felting resin, so as the areas of the fabric interested by the print with such paste react in a different manner, with respect to the other areas, to a subsequent milling treatment.
  • a steaming step to fix the dying substances (basic, acid, reactive, disperse dyes); a thermofixing step, to cause the reticulation of the anti-felting resin in the areas interested by the relevant pastes (dry with high speed ventilation at a temperature comprised between about 120°C and 160°C, for a time of about 2-3 minutes), and also to fix the pigments used in the printing paste; a washing step to wash the residuals of paste, unfixed dyeing substances and/or pigments; and finally a milling step that will produce the controlled felting of the material, in a different way depending on the fact that a specific area was or was not interested by the action of the anti-felting pastes.
  • two or more printing pastes are simply used in a combined manner to create a design pattern in two or more colors, at least one paste containing an anti-felting agent, and at least one (not necessarily the same containing the anti-felting agent) having coloring properties.
  • the printing of a design pattern defined by the regions treated with the anti-felting agent will be intrinsically combined with an actual surface design obtained as an effect of the pigments or dyeing substances contained in the paste or pastes.
  • figure 1 refers to a flowery design, in which the darker color is associated with an anti-felting effect, while the lighter color is in areas where the fabric is felted or "milled".
  • the clustered lines in various colors are printed with normal colored printing pastes, and the final milling has therefore conferred to them the predictable felting effect.
  • the wider stripes between the clusters of lines are printed with an anti-felting printing paste, which prevented the milling.
  • an anti-felting paste is expressed by the following recipe. Chronological order Products Amount (/kg) 1 Purified water as needed 2 Sodium carbonate 0,5 - 15 g 3 Wetting agent (e.g. sodium alkane sulfonates with alkyldiols) 10 - 15 g INVADINE MR ® (Ciba Specialty Chemicals S.p.A.) 4 Anti-felting resin (e. g. Polyurethane-derived and dimethylpolysiloxane- derived substances) 5 - 500 g DICRYLAN VSR ® (Ciba Specialty Chemicals S.p.A.)
  • the use of the wetting agent ensures a correct and homogeneous penetration of the printing paste in the textile substrate.
  • the composition thus obtained is slowly agitated and then is added to with a thickening agent, according to the following specifications, so that the paste acquires the suitable thickness in view of the subsequent use.
  • Chronological order products Amount (/kg) 5 Thickening agent (e.g. dispersion of acrylic copolymers in light mineral oil) - 35 - 65 g ALCOLPRINT DT-CS ® (Ciba Specialty Chemicals S.p.A.)
  • the paste may be colored by adding appropriate agents.
  • Chronological order products Amount (/kg) 6 Dyes (acid, premetallized, reactive, direct, basic and disperse dyes) as needed Pigments
  • the mixture is then quickly agitated until the desired viscosity is obtained.
  • the coloring agents represent an optional presence; all the other components, except the anti-felting resin (the variability range of which is related to the higher or lower extent of anti-felting effect one wishes to obtain), are normally used in traditional printing pastes. These traditional pastes, when used in combination with the anti-felting paste, will therefore follow a recipe analogous to the one mentioned above, save for the omission of the anti-felting resin.
  • the printing steps already described can be applied to a raw fabric, piece dyed or yarn dyed correspondingly changing the range of effects that can be obtained.
  • these steps may be combined with further printing treatments - resist printing or corrosion printing - so as to create further new and peculiar aesthetic effects.
  • the resist or corrosion printing interacts with the pattern defined by the contrast between the felted and the non felted regions, modifying the color of the fabric - otherwise determined by the sole print with the anti-felting agent - adding further design effects typical of the traditional print.
  • figure 3 there is shown an example of a result obtainable by combining the anti-felting print, in this case on a raw fabric, with a traditional resist print.
  • the color motifs of the resist print are combined with the pattern of the felted/non felted areas.
  • a third embodiment of the invention represented by the example of figure 5 , two or more entirely different design patterns are superimposed, at least one of which being defined by a print with an anti-felting agent, while the other (or others) are defined by a traditional direct print in two or more colors.
  • the different patterns mutually intersect accomplishing a new and fanciful interweave effect. Namely, the sample in the depicted example exhibits a flowery pattern defined by milled/non milled areas, combined and intersected with a multicolor line pattern.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Verfahren zur Anwendung auf ein wollenes Textilsubstrat, wobei das Verfahren einen Druckschritt, in welchem wenigstens eine erste Druckpaste direkt auf das Substrat mittels einer Druckmatrix aufgebracht wird, auf welcher ein Muster gebildet ist, das wiederzugeben ist, und einen nachfolgenden Walzschritt enthält, wobei die erste Druckpaste ein Anti-Filz-Mittel enthält, wodurch weiter zu dem Walzschritt die oberflächlichen Bereiche, die für die Aufbringung der Paste von Interesse sind, ein anderes Filzverhalten in Bezug auf die verbleibenden Teile des Substrates haben, wobei das Verfahren durch die Tatsache gekennzeichnet ist, dass wenigstens eine weitere Druckpaste gleichzeitig mit der ersten Paste verwendet wird, wobei die wenigstens eine weitere Paste färbende, korrosive oder schützende Eigenschaften hat, wodurch Bereiche mit verschiedenen Walzcharakteristika und folglich kontrollierten Effekten von Knittern und/oder Wellen auf dem Substrat gemäß dem Muster der Matrix definiert werden, gleichzeitig mit herkömmlichen Farbeffekten, wodurch der Druckschritt die Kombination von Motiven, die durch die Anti-Filz-Paste bestimmt sind, und von Motiven realisiert, die durch die wenigstens eine weitere Druckpaste färbende oder mit Schutz- oder Korrosionseigenschaften definiert sind.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei eine Anzahl von färbenden Druckpasten verwendet wird, um ein gedrucktes Muster in entsprechenden Farben zu erzeugen, wobei eine oder mehrere der Druckpasten das Anti-Filz-Mittel enthält/enthalten.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 2, wobei zwei oder mehr der färbenden Druckpasten das Anti-Filz-Mittel enthalten, möglicherweise in gegenseitig verschiedenen Konzentrationen.
  4. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei die wenigstens eine weitere Paste, eine schützende Druckpaste ist, die das Fixieren eines Farbstoffes in einem Färbungsschritt verhindert, der nachfolgend auf den Druckschritt ausgeführt wird.
  5. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, wobei die wenigstens eine weitere Paste eine Korrosionsdruckpaste ist, die einen Farbstoff angreift, der an dem Substrat in einem Färbungsschritt fixiert wurde, der vor dem Druckschritt ausgeführt wurde.
  6. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei der Druckschritt ferner ein direktes Drucken in zwei oder mehr Farben mit einer zweiten Matrix enthält, auf welcher ein anderes Muster als die erste Matrix gebildet ist, wodurch wenigstens zwei Muster auf dem Substrat überlagert werden, ein erstes, das durch die Bereiche mit verschiedenen Walzcharakteristika definiert ist, das zweite durch die Farbmotive, die durch den direkten Druck definiert sind.
  7. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei das Anti-Filz-Mittel ein auf Polyurethan basierendes Harz ist.
  8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, wobei in der wenigstens einen Anti-Filz-Paste das Anti-Filz-Mittel eine Konzentration von zwischen ungefähr 5 und 500 g pro kg Druckpaste hat.
  9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7 oder 8, wobei die Paste auch ein Befeuchtungsmittel in einer Konzentration von zwischen ungefähr 10 und 15 g pro kg Paste enthält.
  10. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 8 bis 10, wobei die Paste auch ein Verdickungsmittel in einer Konzentration von zwischen ungefähr 35 und 65 g pro kg Paste enthält.
  11. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei das Textilsubstrat zwischen dem Druckschritt und dem Walzschritt einen Thermofixierschritt durchläuft, um die Retikulation des Anti-Filz-Mittels in den Bereichen, die für die relevanten Pasten interessant sind, zu induzieren, wobei der Thermofixierschritt ein Trocknen mit Hochgeschwindigkeitsventilation bei einer Temperatur von zwischen ungefähr 120 ° und 160 °C für eine Zeit von ungefähr 2 - 3 Minuten enthält.
  12. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei das Textilsubstrat zwischen dem Druckschritt und dem Walzschritt einen Dampfbehandlungsschritt, um mögliche Färbungssubstanzen und/oder Pigmente, die bei dem Drucken verwendet werden, zu fixieren, und einen Waschschritt durchläuft, um die Rückstände von Paste, unfixierten Färbungssubstanzen und/oder Pigmenten zu entfernen.
EP06124188A 2005-11-18 2006-11-16 Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Textilsubstraten aus Wolle Not-in-force EP1788150B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000238A ITFI20050238A1 (it) 2005-11-18 2005-11-18 Procedimento di stampa su manufatti tessili in lana e misti lana per l'ottenimento di disegni definiti da zone a capacita' di follatura differenziata, e manufatti cosi' ottenuti

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1788150A2 EP1788150A2 (de) 2007-05-23
EP1788150A3 EP1788150A3 (de) 2009-04-15
EP1788150B1 true EP1788150B1 (de) 2011-09-21

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ID=37865728

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06124188A Not-in-force EP1788150B1 (de) 2005-11-18 2006-11-16 Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Textilsubstraten aus Wolle

Country Status (3)

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EP (1) EP1788150B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE525518T1 (de)
IT (1) ITFI20050238A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2017221042A1 (en) * 2016-06-22 2017-12-28 Inseta S.R.L. Method for finishing a fabric and a felted fabric obtained by this method

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB580205A (en) * 1944-06-16 1946-08-30 Richard Walter Hardacre Improvements in textile printing
DE3439532A1 (de) * 1984-10-29 1986-04-30 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt Verfahren zum erzeugen von weiss- und buntreserven auf polyamidfasermaterialien
JPS6285086A (ja) * 1985-10-08 1987-04-18 三星染整株式会社 毛製品の部分的防縮加工による異色凹凸柄模様の柄出法
JPH1053978A (ja) * 1996-08-05 1998-02-24 Yoshida Seiri Kk 毛織物若しくは毛編物における表面模様形成方法

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Publication number Publication date
ATE525518T1 (de) 2011-10-15
ITFI20050238A1 (it) 2007-05-19
EP1788150A3 (de) 2009-04-15
EP1788150A2 (de) 2007-05-23

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