Classifications

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  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
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• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A47K—SANITARY EQUIPMENT NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; TOILET ACCESSORIES
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  • A47K7/02—Bathing sponges, brushes, gloves, or similar cleaning or rubbing implements
  • A47K7/03—Bathing sponges, brushes, gloves, or similar cleaning or rubbing implements containing soap or other cleaning ingredients, e.g. impregnated
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A47—FURNITURE; DOMESTIC ARTICLES OR APPLIANCES; COFFEE MILLS; SPICE MILLS; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
  • A47L—DOMESTIC WASHING OR CLEANING; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
  • A47L13/00—Implements for cleaning floors, carpets, furniture, walls, or wall coverings
  • A47L13/10—Scrubbing; Scouring; Cleaning; Polishing
  • A47L13/16—Cloths; Pads; Sponges
  • A47L13/17—Cloths; Pads; Sponges containing cleaning agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A47—FURNITURE; DOMESTIC ARTICLES OR APPLIANCES; COFFEE MILLS; SPICE MILLS; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
  • A47L—DOMESTIC WASHING OR CLEANING; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
  • A47L13/00—Implements for cleaning floors, carpets, furniture, walls, or wall coverings
  • A47L13/10—Scrubbing; Scouring; Cleaning; Polishing
  • A47L13/16—Cloths; Pads; Sponges
  • A47L13/18—Gloves; Glove-like cloths
  • A47L13/19—Gloves; Glove-like cloths containing cleaning agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0204—Specific forms not provided for by any of groups A61K8/0208 - A61K8/14
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/005—Antimicrobial preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/02—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings containing insect repellants
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
  • A61Q9/04—Depilatories
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
  • B32B27/12—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin next to a fibrous or filamentary layer
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
  • B32B27/32—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin comprising polyolefins
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
  • B32B27/34—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin comprising polyamides
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
  • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
  • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
  • B32B5/022—Non-woven fabric
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B7/00—Layered products characterised by the relation between layers; Layered products characterised by the relative orientation of features between layers, or by the relative values of a measurable parameter between layers, i.e. products comprising layers having different physical, chemical or physicochemical properties; Layered products characterised by the interconnection of layers
  • B32B7/04—Interconnection of layers
  • B32B7/06—Interconnection of layers permitting easy separation
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
  • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
  • C11D17/00—Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties
  • C11D17/04—Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties combined with or containing other objects
  • C11D17/049—Cleaning or scouring pads; Wipes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B2250/00—Layers arrangement
  • B32B2250/02—2 layers
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
  • B32B2262/14—Mixture of at least two fibres made of different materials
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
  • B32B2307/70—Other properties
  • B32B2307/764—Insect repellent
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B2432/00—Cleaning articles, e.g. mops, wipes
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
  • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
  • B32B2437/00—Clothing
  • B32B2437/02—Gloves, shoes

Definitions

• the invention relates to a chemical Fiaarentfernungssystem from a Depil michsfonnultechnik combined with various application systems that allow a hair growth adapted minimized dosage of Depil michsmasse.
• the scope of application covers all body parts covered with hair, including the intimate and facial area,
• the objectives of such Depil istssysteme are the cosmetic fashion trend following in the rapid, gentle and painless hair removal, without skin irritation and odor nuisance. It is very important that the hair protein fragments as quickly as possible while the skin protein, especially the stratum corneum, is not attacked. This is possible due to the different structure of the hair and skin protein.
• the hair protein consists of ⁇ -keratin and collagen, whereby the ⁇ -helices are cross-linked via disulfide bridges.
• the strength of the hair protein is enhanced by the fact that three helical strands wrap around each other and form a superhelix whose interspaces contain fats of different composition (eg free fatty acids, triglycerides, free cholesterol, ester waxes) ( AL Lehninger.
• the proportion of cysteine to form the cystine can be up to 18% of the hair protein.
• the solvolysis of the hair consists in the reductive cleavage of cystine (disulfide bridge) with the alkaline-catalyzed peptide defibrillation, which proceeds largely diffusion-controlled. Since the stratum comeum contains no cystine as the essential protective layer of the skin, its solvolysis mechanism is clearly different from the hair protein. This allows selective fragmentation of the hair protein by appropriate choice of depilation ingredients. By controlling reaction-technical parameters of the hair solvolysis process in the various reaction steps as well as the use of new system-fair application systems, the mentioned requirements can be met.
• the formulations are blended with fragrances (e.g., peppermint, eucalyptus, nerol, farnesol, rose oil, etc.) and bactericides (eucalyptus, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and their esters, etc.). Further ingredients of Depil istscremen for swelling enhancement of the hair are urea and its derivatives.
• fragrances e.g., peppermint, eucalyptus, nerol, farnesol, rose oil, etc.
• bactericides eucalyptus, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and their esters, etc.
• depilation systems the formulation of which has a lower viscosity compared to creams
• packaging such as vials, jars, roll-on, tubes, etc.
• a coater such as ex-hair roll-on (Medosan).
• ex-hair roll-on Medosan
• thioglycolic acid used in most products, which can be as high as 0.8 mol / L.
• the thioglycolic acid is usually used as the sodium, potassium and / or calcium salt, in conjunction with sodium and potassium hydroxide solution and calcium hydroxide. Due to the limited biocompatibility of commercially available formulations, skin irritations occur, which in turn are controlled by appropriate formulation ingredients such as chamomile extract (azulene) and amica extract.
• An object of the invention is to provide a fast acting, gentle and low odor composition for the painless removal of hair without causing skin irritation. Another object is to provide an application system for the above depilation formulation that simultaneously performs a peeling function that removes hair. When designing the application system, the risk of undesired contamination, e.g. the hands are minimized by the Depilticiansmasse and environmentally sound disposal of the used Depilticianssystemes be possible. Another object of the invention is to provide a composition with which the depilation time can be reduced.
• a hair removal cosmetic composition comprising a degreasing system comprising at least one fatliquoring compound having a Godfrey M-number of 1 to 18 and a solvolysis system having at least one mercapto compound.
• the removal of the hair preferably proceeds in three steps:
• the attack is favored by the solvolysis of the hair triggering agents.
• the second step comprises the preferably catalyzed solvolysis process of the hair, which can be subdivided into hydrogen bonds and disulfide bridges (cystine) splitting and subordinate into peptide-cleaving reactions.
• the corresponding ingredients are summarized in the "solvolysis system" of the depilation formulation.
• the third, optional step involves removing the depilatory mass with the hair fragments from the skin through an exfoliation process as an optional part of the depilation system.
• the hair removal takes place in particular by cleavage of the cystine sulfur bridges.
• the degreasing of the hair is thus the first step and is advantageously carried out by the use of substantially insoluble in water, fat-sorbing compounds in combination with water-soluble dispersants or emulsifiers and low molecular weight fat solvents, preferably carried out with ether alcohols.
• the degreasing system may include up to three ingredients, a fat solvent, a fatty sorbent, and an emulsifier.
• the individual components have the following functions:
• the fat solvent (item 1.1.) Dissolves the fat from the hair and mobilizes, ie transports it into the oil phase of the "oil in water" - emulsion.
• the oil phase of this emulsion comprises at least one grease sorbent (item 1.2.). Due to the fact that the hair fat solubilized by the fat solvent and thus is mobile, there is a sorption, ie partial immobilization, of the hair fat in the oil phase or the surfactant micelles of the emulsion, which comprises the fat sorbents.
• the Pettlierestoff thus allow the transport of the hair fat from the hair in the oil phase of the emulsion, in which they are partially immobilized.
• the distribution equilibrium between fats sorbed on hair and fats dissolved in the aqueous solvent phase is shifted in favor of the portion sorbed in the oil phase.
• the dispersants or emulsifiers used are surface-active agents which, inter alia, also bring about the stabilization of the oil phase in the aqueous phase and thus the formation of the emulsion.
• polar, protic solvents are preferably used as a fat solvent.
• Preferred examples of these are alcohols having 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms, and their ethers.
• the fat solubilizers used whose M numbers range from 1 to 18, are characterized by their good water and fat solubility. M-number characterization of solvents is based on their affinity for "Godfrey's work.” Oil-like Substances “(NB Godfrey, ChemTech, June 1972, p. 359 ).
• fat solvents in the context of this invention are polar, protic, water-soluble, liquid compounds.
• Typical representatives are alcohols with 1, 2, 3,4. or 5 carbon atoms, and ether alcohols, low molecular weight, water-soluble ethylene oxide homopolymers (for example, Pluriol E having a molecular weight of 102 to 2,000 from BASF) and propylene oxide homopolymers (for example Pluriol P having a molecular weight of 134 to 600 BASF) and their derivatives, low molecular weight, random and water-soluble ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers and their derivatives, low molecular weight, water-soluble ethylene oxide and propylene oxide block copolymers (for example Pluronic PE having a molecular weight from 1,000 to 4,000 and Pluronic RPE having a molecular weight of 2,000 to 4,000) and their derivatives, and ether alcohols such as ethoxyethanol (ethoxy glycol), propoxyethanol (propoxy glycol), butoxyethanol (butoxy glycol). Butyl acetate and glycerol triacetate. Pluronic, in particular
• the molecular weights of the fat solvents are preferably in the range of 100 to 4,000, preferably 2,000 to 4,000, more preferably 1,000 to 4,000.
• Both a fat solvent alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used.
• the amount used of these polar, protic solvents are preferably in the range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, based on the total cosmetic composition.
• fats mobilized by the solvents are preferably immobilized according to their solubility in the aqueous solvent phase of the optionally usable, fat-sorbing compounds of the "degreasing system", whereby further fat can be dissolved in the aqueous phase.
• fat-sorbing compounds for the purposes of this invention are preferably surfactant micelles, which optionally also contain substantially water-insoluble, fatty compounds, ie compounds whose solubility is less than 1%; therefore, they are emulsified as an oil phase in water.
• the fat-sorbing compounds are essentially the oil phase of the "oil-in-water" emulsion.
• the Depil istsmasse - components can - in addition to mineral oils - fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkyl and arylethoxylates and fatty amides with 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, or 24 carbon atoms are used. These compounds have the task. To immobilize the fat already dissolved by the Pettlettestoff in the aqueous phase of the "oil in water” emulsion, so that can be solved by the fat solvent new fat.
• Typical representatives of these classes of substances are cetyl alcohol, stearic acid and their esterification derivatives, such as e.g. Octyl and cetyl palmitates and triglycerides, as well as ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty alcohols each having 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, or 24 carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol; the number of ethylene oxide or.
• Propylene oxide units in the ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols is 1 to 10, preferably 1-5.
• silicon organic compounds such as Phenyldimethicone, Cetyldimethicone or Cyclomethicone also very well suited.
• Preferably used products are cetyl and cetearyl alcohol.
• Both a fat sorbent alone and a combination of two, three or more of them can be used.
• the fat-sorbing substances are preferably used in the concentration range of 2-15 wt .-%, preferably from 5 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total cosmetic composition.
• dispersants or emulsifiers which may be components of the degreasing system
• surface-active substances with HLB values between 7 and 18 can be used (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, see H. Sunday, textbook of colloid science, VEB German publishing house of the sciences Berlin 1977 ).
• lauryl sulfate particularly suitable representatives of this class of substances are lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, Span 20 (sorbitan laurate), Tween 20 (ethoxylated sorbitan laurate), Brij 58 (polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether), Renex 720 (ethoxylated C 13 - C 15 - alcohol) and Laureth- 23rd Especially suitable is a combination consisting of 2/3 of laureth sulfate and 1/3 of lauryl, each based on the weight.
• Both a surfactant alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used.
• the total amount of surfactants used is preferably in the range of 2-10% by weight, preferably 4-6%, based on the total cosmetic composition.
• thickening agents for the aqueous phase of the "oil in water” emulsion can be used. This can increase the viscosity of the cosmetic composition and facilitate its handling.
• Suitable representatives of thickeners of the aqueous phase are sodium alginates, in particular alginates EHV (CHT-Tübingen), polyacrylates, for example Dynasorb from Stockhausen, and cellulose derivatives, for example Methocel 311 from Dow Chemical Company or Bermocell E 230-FQ from Akzo Nobel and associative thickeners such as, for example, polyurethanes which are combined with alkyl-aryl-polyglycol ethers, in particular Borchi Gel L 75 N from Borchers GmbH.
• alginates EHV CHT-Tübingen
• polyacrylates for example Dynasorb from Stockhausen
• cellulose derivatives for example Methocel 311 from Dow Chemical Company or Bermocell E 230-FQ from Akzo Nobel
• associative thickeners such as, for example, polyurethanes which are combined with alkyl-aryl-polyglycol ethers, in particular Borchi Gel L 75 N from Borchers GmbH.
• Both a thickening agent alone and a combination of two, three or more of them can be used.
• the solvolysis of the hair is accomplished primarily by the tertiary and secondary structure-splitting Depil michienzien ("Solvolysis system").
• Solvolysis system One aspect of this invention relates to the use of mono- or dibasic mercapto compounds.
• dibasic mercapto compounds are metal complexes of thioglycolic acid, ie the dianion of thioglycolic acid, some of which are soluble in polar, protic solvents, for example ethanol.
• these metal complexes in the under 1.1. partially soluble,
• monobasic mercapto compounds e.g. Mercaptoethanol or mercaptoglycerol or salts thereof.
• Preferred salts of mercaptoethanol or of mercaptoglycerol are the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, titanium, tin, and zinc salts. These also have a comparable or better solubility in polar, protic solvents such as the salts of thioglycolic acid.
• Both a mercapto compound alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used;
• all salts of thioglycolic acid with mercaptoethanol and / or mercaptoglycerol can be used in combination.
• At least partially alcohol-soluble metal-thioglycolic acid complexes of the A and B cations can be used as cystine-cleaving salts (cf. A. Ackermann, W. Jugelt, HH Moebius, HD Suschke, G. Werner, electrolyte equilibrium and electrochemistry, Verlag Chemie Weitlheim, 1974, pages 221-223 ) be used.
• the cleavage reagents in order for the cleavage reagents to be able to solvolyse the hair, it is first necessary to partially remove the protective layer of fat surrounding the hair. This removal is usually done by the above-mentioned degreasing system. Partial removal of the protective layer of fat surrounding the hair is sufficient when micellar and / or phase transfer catalysis is used as it can act through the fat layer of the hair.
• the present inventors have unexpectedly found that aluminum or zinc complexes of thioglycolic acid accelerate cleavage of the cystine sulfur bridges. While the sodium and potassium salts of thioglycolic acid are primarily water-soluble, but not soluble in the solvents, the aluminum and zinc complexes of thioglycolic acid which are preferably used in this invention are distinguished by a marked solubility in the solvents, for example in the alcohols , which can also be used as fat solvents (see point 1.1.).
• the thioglycolic acid salts of aluminum and zinc differ from the sodium, potassium and calcium salts in that the latter are almost completely dissociated, i. present as salts and therefore in the 1.1. listed grease solvents are not soluble.
• the aluminum or zinc compounds of thioglycolic acid are not present as salts, but are undissoziiert complexes which have a significant solubility in the Fattlettestoffn for the purposes of this invention (item 1.1.), For example, ethanol.
• thioglycolic acid complexes include aluminum and titanium as examples of the A cation and zinc and tin for the B cation.
• the complexes of thioglycolic acid are used in a concentration of from 0.2 M to 0.8 M, preferably from 0.2 M to 0.4 M, particularly preferably about 0.3 M.
• alkali salts of thioglycolic acid can be used.
• Mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol are also suitable as further substances for the cleavage of cystine disulfide bridges, the concentrations used likewise being in the range from 0.2 M to 0.8 M, preferably from 0.2 M to 0.4 M, particularly preferably approximately 0 , 3 M lie.
• the mercaptoethanol capable of forming salts or ions has a pKa value of 9.37, so that at about pH 11, about 98% of the mercaptoethanol used is present in its deprotonated form. This significantly reduces its dermal toxicity compared to the protonated form.
• micellar or phase transfer catalysts preferably using quaternary ammonium compounds.
• quaternary ammonium compounds between low molecular weight compounds, such as tetrabutylammonium chloride, and high molecular weight, i. polymeric compounds, such as Polyquaternium 28, a polymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride to distinguish.
• the low molecular weight quaternary ammonium compounds are the classical phase transfer catalysts and are less prone to micellar formation due to their low propensity for mutual association, the surfactant and polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds have a pronounced tendency to form micelles in the water phase.
• the tendency of the high molecular weight quaternary ammonium compounds to exceed the phase boundary between the aqueous and organic phases as classical phase transfer catalysts tends to be less pronounced than for the corresponding low molecular weight compounds.
• the formation of the micelles depends on the concentration of the quaternary ammonium compound used.
• Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are those with a surfactant-like character.
• CMC critical micelle concentration
• micellar and phase transfer catalysis are logical separations between micellar and phase transfer catalysis due to kinetic measurements, it is not necessary for the feasibility of the present invention. Rather, both types of catalysis in the present system can run side by side.
• substrate is understood in the case of micellar catalysis, the reactive centers of the hair, i. the SS cystine bridges, the hydrogen bonds, and the peptide bonds; the reactants include mercapto compounds and the alkali.
• the reactants causing the solvolysis of the hair (abbreviated to S), for example the negatively charged hydroxide ion, thioglycolate anion, mercaptoglycerol or mercaptoethanol, associate in a rapid equilibrium step with a micelle (Mizf) consisting of the preferably surfactant and / or or high molecular weight positively charged quaternary ammonium salt, to the micelle complex (MizS).
• a micelle consisting of the preferably surfactant and / or or high molecular weight positively charged quaternary ammonium salt
• MizS micelle complex
• at least a residue of the quaternary ammonium salt has 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably, exactly one residue of the quaternary ammonium salt has 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 or 24 carbon atoms; the other three radicals consist for example of methyl groups.
• the reactivities of S in the free and associated forms are defined by the rate constants k w and k miz , respectively. Due to the micelle formation, the concentration of mercapto compounds on the surface of the micelle may be much higher than it would normally be, ie if the mercapto compounds were present in aqueous solution.
• the loading of the micelle surface with the reactants for solvolysis occurs in a rapid, pre-equilibrium, reaction step, wherein the reaction, d, h. the cleavage of the hydrogen bonds and the SS-cystine bridges is mostly in the zeroth order.
• phase transfer ⁇ catalysis is to convert ionic substances from the water phase into the organic medium (in this case into the fatty phase).
• [Q ⁇ X - ] corresponds to the preferably used quaternary, positively charged compound, preferably a quaternary ammonium salt, for example tetrabutylammonium chloride, Q + of the quaternary compound, in this example the tetrabutylammonium, and X - the counterion, in this example the chloride, equivalent.
• a quaternary ammonium salt for example tetrabutylammonium chloride
• Q + of the quaternary compound in this example the tetrabutylammonium
• X - the counterion, in this example the chloride, equivalent.
• [S] corresponds to a depilierend acting component and the conjugate anion (for example, OH -, RS -, deprotonated mercaptoethanol); and [Q ⁇ S - ] corresponds to the forming reaction product extracted from the fatty phase of the hair from the quaternary ammonium salt and the anionic reactant for solvolysis.
• the extracted reaction product shows the depilatory effect (reaction product BS) with recovery of the quaternary salt used [Q ⁇ X - ] (ion pair) according to Figure 2.
• BX stands for the substrate, ie in general hydrogen bonds and SS-cystine bonds; this reacts with the QS to form BS, which represents cleaved hydrogen bonds, peptide bonds, and SS cysteine bridges, with recovery of the original quaternary ammonium salt [Q ⁇ X - ].
• micellar or phase transfer catalysis are characterized by the fact that they are capable of forming salts or ion pairs with the micellar or phase transfer catalysts used.
• suitable substances are mentioned in addition to thioglycolic acid and its salts, mercaptoethanol and mercaptogycerin.
• Preferably used quaternary compounds for micellar and phase transfer catalysis are characterized by four-substituted ammonium compounds, wherein the substituents may have both aliphatic and aromatic structures.
• the quaternary nitrogen itself may be part of an aromatic ring system, e.g. a pyridine or pyridinium ring.
• the aliphatic substituents are, for example, hydrocarbon chains of C 1 -C 24 , preferably of C 1 -C 14, and OH-terminated ethylene oxide and propylene oxide radicals.
• the degree of ethoxylation or propoxylation ranges between 1 and 30, based on the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units in the remainder.
• Typical representatives are tetrabutylammonium chloride, methyltrioctylammonium chloride, fatty amines (C 4 -C 24 ) which are quaternized with dimethyl sulfate, quaternized fatty amines of general structure (C 4 -C 24 ) NMe 3 + , such as, for example, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-dodecyl-ammonium chloride, N, N-trimethyl-N-tetradecyl-ammonium chloride (N-cetyl-N, N, N-trimethylammonium chloride), N, N, N-trimethyl-N-hexadecyl-ammonium chloride, N, N-trimethyl-N-octadecyl-ammonium chloride, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-eicosanyl-ammonium chloride, N , N, N-trimethyl-N-docosanyl-ammonium chlor
• substituents are homologous fatty hydrocarbons, ethylene oxide or propylene oxide radicals, it is also possible to use aromatic substituents, for example N- [3- (paranonylphenoxy) -2-hydroxypropyl] N, N, N-trimethylammonium chloride.
• polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds wherein the quaternary groups are covalently bonded to a backbone of the polymer.
• examples of these are copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-28 from GAF) or quaternized copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (Polyquaternium-11).
• Quaternary ammonium salts with aromatic or heterocyclic structures preferably have phenyl or pyridinium structures.
• the aliphatic substituent is usually a hydrocarbon chain of C 1 -C 24 , preferably C 1 -C 14 , in particular a substituent with 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 1, 2, 4, 16, 18, 20, 22 or 24 carbon atoms.
• Examples of these are: trimethylphenylammonium chloride or bromide, methylpyridinium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride and 1-dodecylpyridinium bromide.
• negative charged counterions of the quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably fluoride, chloride. Bromide, iodide, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate or hydroxide, preferably chloride and sulfate.
• Both a quaternary ammonium compound alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used;
• surfactant-like and polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds can be used in combination.
• micellar or phase transfer catalysts are dependent on their constitution and micelle formation concentration (CMC) and are preferably in the range of 0.001-0.2 mol / l, preferably in the range of 0.01-0.1 mol / l, in each case based on the entire cosmetic Composition.
• CMC constitution and micelle formation concentration
• Preferably used reductive mercapto compounds are thioglycolic acid, or salts thereof, mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol. These are preferably used in concentrations of 0.2-0.8 mol / l, preferably 0.2-0.4 mol / l, in each case based on the entire cosmetic composition. If micellar and / or phase transfer catalysts are used, mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol may preferably be considered as reactants for the solvolysis of the hair.
• the solvolysis system may comprise at least one tertiary amine; such amines catalyze the solvolysis of hair, and in particular the cleavage of hydrogen bonds and, secondarily, of peptides.
• tertiary amines in the context of this invention are preferably cyclic amines having at least one, preferably two, tertiary amine functions and at least one ring which do not hydrolyze under depilation conditions, ie at a pH of less than or equal to 11.5 and a temperature lower or equal to 37 ° C.
• those amines corresponding to the structure NR 1 R 2 R 3 N are preferred, wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, divalent hydrocarbon groups having 2,3 , 4, 5, 6 or 7 carbon atoms, wherein in each case two of these groups can form a ring together.
• Both a tertiary amine alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used.
• the tertiary and quaternary amines as solvolysis catalysts, it is possible to perform the depilation at pH values of 9-11.5, preferably at pH 10-11, instead of the usual pH of 13 and higher. As a result, the removal of the hair in a very short time can be performed much gentler on the skin; despite the lowered pH compared to conventional depilatory compositions achieved by the catalysts sufficient speed for the solvolysis of the hair or the hair fibrillation.
• the adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic composition is carried out, for example, by the use of buffer systems, e.g. Potassium bicarbonate / potassium carbonate for a pH range of 9.5 to 11.0, whose maximum buffer is about 10.5, and silica / sodium hydroxide solution (water glass) for a pH range of 11-12, the maximum buffer at about 11 lies.
• buffer systems e.g. Potassium bicarbonate / potassium carbonate for a pH range of 9.5 to 11.0, whose maximum buffer is about 10.5, and silica / sodium hydroxide solution (water glass) for a pH range of 11-12, the maximum buffer at about 11 lies.
• the amount of use of the corresponding acid-base pairs is preferably to be chosen so that in the cosmetic composition of this invention, a buffer capacity of 0.02 - 0.06 mol / l, preferably 0.04 - 0.05 mol / l prevails.
• tertiary and quaternary amines such as DABCO, DBU, tetrabutylammonium hydroxide and polyquaternium-28 and by use at pH 10 to 11.5, preferably at about 10.5, the depilation times vary depending on the hair thickness and degree of fat of the hair between 3 and 5 minutes, usually between 3 and 4 minutes.
• the amount of the mercapto compound to be used for example thioglycolic acid and mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol, or of their salts or derivatives can be reduced by the use of the catalyst and solvolysis system according to the invention, so that the concentration is low compared to conventional depilating agents Mercapto compound a noticeable reduction in odor can be achieved.
• the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one reducing endiol or endiolate or its derivatives.
• endiols or endiolates are ascorbic acid, keto sugars such as fructose, as well as acetoin and adepoin.
• Strong reductive endiolates, also known as reductones, are keto sugars (eg fructose), acetoin and adepoin.
• the endiol compounds can be used in a concentration of 0.2 M to 0.5 M, preferably 0.2 M to 0.3 M.
• Dithiothreitol can be used in a concentration of from 0.2 M to 0.8 M, preferably from 0.2 M to 0.4 M.
• the basic information for the development of the depilation formulation according to the invention was obtained both from kinetic data of the hair solvolysis and from the hair breakage data.
• the specimens used were methanol-cleaned female hairs, about 300 mm long.
• the reaction scheme (Fig. 1) on which the working hypothesis is based describes a pseudo first order follow-up reaction, with one in the first reaction stage, d, h. between A and B with the rate constants k 1 and k 1 , occurring equilibrium step, which is mainly attributed to the Disulfidspaltung.
• the second, irreversible reaction step from B to C with the rate constant k 2 corresponds to the diffusion-controlled hydrogen-bond and also possible peptide cleavage.
• the reaction constants of the first and second reaction steps ( Figure 1) and the hair breakage time are determined and normalized as target variables for describing the modes of action of the depilatory ingredients.
• the best values correspond to one in the normalized scale of Figure 2 and the worst values to zero.
• Figure 2 shows the isolines of the standardized target variable (depilation rate) as a function of the pH value and the methanol concentration at a constant thioglycolic acid and DABCO concentration (FIG. 2).
• Figure 3 It shows the isolines of the normalized target variable as a function of the pH value and the DABCO concentration with the best possible reaction conditions at pH 10 - 10.5 and 0.02 - 0.03 mol / l DABCO.
• the concentration of potassium thioglycolate is constantly 0.3 mol / l and the methanol concentration constant 2 mol / l.
• a concentration of DABCO of 0.025 mol / l and a pH of about 10.2 leads to optimal depilation rate. Nevertheless, the depilation is carried out at a pH of about 10.5, which also corresponds to the maximum buffer capacity of the system potassium bicarbonate / potassium carbonate, in order to always ensure the proper functioning.
• Fig. 3 Isolines of the normalized depilation rate as a function of
• pH and the DABCO concentration Abscissa pH Ordinate: Concentration of DABCO in mol / l Constant values: 0.3 M potassium thioglycolate and 2M methanol
• the hair was dipped into the appropriate depilation liquor, loaded with a preload weight of 300-350 mN, and the preload force, which decreased as a result of hair fragmentation, was measured in chronological order. Hair breakage was recorded at a constant bias force of 295 mN and variable concentrations of depilatory ingredients.
• a "glove" whose one side is coated with the depilation mass and whose back surface is used as an exfoliating glove to remove the depilation mass and the hair preferably serves for the application of the depilation mass.
• the production of such a glove is extremely cost-effective, since the gloves can be made up of a multi-layered package.
• the uppermost layer of the three-ply package consists, for example, of a nonwoven fabric coated with the depilation mass; the middle layer is, for example, a polyethylene film as the contaminating flame, and the last corresponds, for example, to the exfoliating layer which is made of a rough woven, knitted or nonwoven fabric.
• the coated, three-ply, up to 2500 mm wide web is cut into individual webs of approx. 150 mm width and sewn or welded at the edges. Subsequently, the single sheets are cut into 150 mm long individual pieces and sewn or welded on one side only, so that a glove is created, one side of which carries the Depil michsmasse and the other for cleaning (peeling) can be used. In other cases, it makes sense to perform the suturing or welding of the three-layer application system before the coating.
• a second possibility is the use of an adhesive-coated plastic film in the coating material, the aforementioned Depil michikalien are incorporated.
• the coated side of the film is covered with a second film immediately after the coating process and arrives as a web in the assembly.
• the hair removal with the coated adhesive film takes place by removing the protective film and pressing the coated side of the film to the corresponding area of the body to be depilated. After a contact time of 3 - 8 minutes, the film is peeled off and with it the hair in disintegration.
• This type of hair removal is a combination of depilation and epilation.
• the degreasing chemicals listed in the table below are heated to the melt and mixed and then emulsified in half of the available water.
• the chemicals listed in the solvolysis system are dissolved in a water mask to subsequently emulsify the "degreasing emulsion", which has cooled down in the meantime, in the "solvolysis solution”. After emulsification, the remaining water is added to a volume of one liter.
• the exfoliating knit as a cleaning layer of the glove, is made of coarse polyethylene fibers to remove the highly fragmented hair, including the depilation mass.
• the depilatory formulation prepared in this way is distinguished by its low odor nuisance, the low pH of 11 and the short depilation time of 4 minutes. Due to the low pH, no skin initiation was detected even if a depilation post-treatment was omitted.
• the following formulation corresponds to a Depil michscreme that is transferred in the foam process to the skin.
• the cream can be washed off with a wet peeling tissue.
• the cream is prepared by mixing the components of the Etfettungssystems (imbentin, glycerol, Pluriol and Pluronic) and heated to about 50 ° C.
• the degreasing composite is then emulsified in the already prepared aqueous solvolysis system. After completion of the emulsion, the premixed thickening system is stirred for about 15 minutes. Finally, the pH is adjusted to pH 10.5.

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