EP1635782A1

EP1635782A1 - Tissue culture media used as a component of cosmetics

Info

Publication number: EP1635782A1
Application number: EP04734472A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Sven Gohla; Monika Mönks; Sibylle Ibanez; Carmen Evangelisti
Original assignee: JUVENA International AG
Current assignee: Prairie Group AG
Priority date: 2003-05-24
Filing date: 2004-05-22
Publication date: 2006-03-22
Also published as: EP2340856B1; EP1896092A1; US20060182701A1; US20050249691A1; JP2007500196A; US8507276B2; EP2340856B2; WO2004103333A1; US20050287182A1; EP2340856A1; US8518422B2

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations that contain tissue cell culture media, especially skin cell culture media that are advantageously aqueous serum-free media. The inventive preparations are suitable for use in skin, hair and body care product, for application to healthy, irritable and/or diseased skin, preferably in a water-free dosage form. The preparations can also be used for maintaining, culturing and caring for skin cells in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo.

Description

Tissue culture media as an ingredient in cosmetics

The invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing tissue, in particular skin cell culture media, in particular aqueous serum-free media, and the use of the preparations for skin, hair and body care.

Within the environment of the human body, there are ^'different circuits such as the bloodstream, the lymphatic system and the intra- and extracellular tissue fluid. The composition of the solvent water with its mineral and bio-organic constituents in these different "transport media" are the same and are based, greatly simplified on salts, amino acids, vitamins, sugars, proteins and proteids, as well as trace elements. Our body has learned in the course of evolution To create "communication networks" and nutritional strategies within these fluids as well as a balance between catabolic and anabolic processes, which make the complex life of our multicellular body possible.

If cells are removed from this network, they have to be cultivated in "environments" that come as close as possible to the natural living conditions in the body. In doing so, the transport and transport of nutrients and the presence of vital factors must be ensured.

These environments are known as cell culture media. The mostly liquid medium enables the multiplication of microorganisms or cells. Basically, the composition of the cell culture medium depends on the needs of the cells to be grown. A distinction is made between synthetic media, the ingredients of which are precisely known on the basis of pure substances, and complex media, the exact composition of which can fluctuate and is sometimes not exactly known. In addition to water, cell culture media mostly contain a carbon and a nitrogen source, phosphate and sulfur compounds as well as minerals and possibly growth substances or vitamins.

If the suitable compositions of the media are given, the cells can multiply or produce the factors necessary for survival "in situ" themselves. The "steady state" conditions in the tissue can be simulated by suitable intervals in the change of media. Sera are often added to the cell culture media to generate good cell growth. Sera are natural products and are obtained from the blood sera of calf, beef, pork, goat, horse or from human blood serum. These sera are complex mixtures of different biomolecules, the functionalities of which are tailored to the respective species. They contain, for example, hormones, attachment factors, amino acids, etc. Depending on the origin of the serum sources, the individual containing factors are variable and the batches of even inter-individual sera are sometimes significantly different. Biological experiments cannot be reproduced at times because the composition of the sera used cannot be reproduced by subsequent batches.

Furthermore, sera are expensive, can only be insufficiently standardized biologically and do not allow thermal sterilization. Furthermore, the use of animal serums in the context of products for skin care and dermatology is not indicated, since viral contamination is not excluded. One tries therefore to get by with media that do not contain sera. The serum-free culture media enable the cultivation of cells under controlled and defined conditions, so that undesired effects due to fluctuations in the serum composition are eliminated. In addition, the use of serum-free media reduces the contamination of cell cultures with viruses and bacteria.

It is known that skin cells in particular in one-, two- and three-dimensional cultures can be kept alive particularly gently and for a long time by optimizing the constituents in the culture medium, or can even be made to multiply and differentiate. Furthermore, it could be demonstrated that suitable media also enable the production of growth factors in situ, these so-called “conditioned media” being used as growth or differentiation-promoting cell culture additives.

The cornified epidermis forms the protective shield of the skin. In order for this function to be optimally performed, the skin cells (keratinocytes) have to go through the process of so-called epidermal differentiation. After the cells in the basal layer have divided, the keratinocytes migrate to the surface of the skin and undergo a series of changes until they become dead, flat, nucleated coromeocytes in the horny layer (stratum corneum) and finally desquamate. Various proteins with specific functions are formed during epidermal differentiation. These include keratins, involucrin, filaggrin and transglutaminase. For optimal formation of the epidermis and the horny layer, it is necessary that these proteins are coordinated and produced in sufficient quantities.

Cosmetics, skin care or wound healing preparations are known from the prior art, which compensate for or at least reduce skin disorders.

For example, the aging skin is primarily treated cosmetically with vitamin A derivatives or hydroxy acids, which stimulate the proliferation of the basal cells in the epidermis to thicken the epidermis and thus smooth the skin. More recent approaches are to substitute for the proteins that are missing or diminished in the dry or the aging skin or to intervene indirectly in the metabolic processes that are disturbed in the case of dry skin or with increasing age. to normalize. One example is the stimulation of collagen synthesis with the purpose of reducing wrinkles. Furthermore, for example, laminin, substances to extend the lifespan of skin cells and certain extracts are used to stimulate epidermal differentiation. However, some of these are pharmacologically active substances with a high potential for side effects.

None of the known preparations from the prior art enable the skin to regenerate itself without having a certain degree of damaging side effects or at least undesirable side effects. This is very often due to the fact that high concentrations of the active ingredients have to be used in order to achieve the biopharmaceutical concentrations in the target organ. At the target organ skin, the skin barrier complicates the dermal effect of active ingredients. Since an increase in skin sensitivity can result from the change in the skin barrier, accompanying skin irritations are not uncommon, particularly in the case of dermatics. Sensitive skin is often caused by dyregulation of homeostasis. Either lipids or messenger substances are produced insufficiently or not at all. This leads to reduced self-protection and increased sensitivity of the skin. Furthermore, in the case of injuries to the skin, such as burns, the upper layers of the skin are irreversibly destroyed, and the remaining cells must be able to regenerate the healthy tissue within a very short time. This requires suitable conditions.

The aim of the invention is to improve the supply of the skin with essential, mineral or ^• organic biofactors. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic or dermatological preparation which makes it possible for the skin to regenerate itself without the harmful side effects or undesirable side effects occurring. Another object of the present invention is to provide preparations which enrich the prior art and can be used for skin, hair and body care and for the treatment of skin irritation and burns.

The listed tasks are solved by a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the main claim. The subclaims relate to advantageous embodiments of the preparations according to the invention. Furthermore, the invention comprises the use of such preparations for the treatment of skin diseases and for skin, hair or scalp care.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing one or more tissues, in particular skin cell culture media, accomplish the tasks set. Numerous studies have shown that skin cell culture media which are suitable for the cultivation of organotypic skin cultures and for the cultivation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes can be regarded as advantageous for use in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. In particular, the preparations in which the media is selected from Ham's F10, Ham's F12 or MCDB, alone or in mixtures, in particular DMEM / HAM ^'s F-12 (1: 1) and / or MCDB 153, are particularly advantageous.

Serum-free preparation in particular avoids the disadvantages listed in the prior art. Studies have shown that cell culture media are in principle suitable for all types of tissue, to cultivate them, to support the multiplication or to exert beneficial influences on the tissue.

The term tissue culture medium is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean all liquid, semi-solid or solid media or mixtures of mineral components, vitamins, enzymes, proteins, proteids or trace elements in or on which the tissue, in particular skin cells, can be replicated or can be cultivated. The tissue culture media according to the invention are thus particularly suitable for the cultivation of skin cells of all kinds, but also also for the cultivation of cells of non-dermal origin in the skin, such as melanocytes, Langerhans cells, Merkel cells etc. Skin cells are preferably considered tissue according to the invention. The skin cell culture media according to the invention accordingly comprise those media whose composition of their individual components is suitable for the cultivation of the following tissues:

1. Fibroblast cells, keratinocyte cells, co-cultures from keratinocytes and fibroblasts, co-cultures from fibroblasts / keratinocytes and other skin-relevant cells such as immune cells, melanocytes etc.

2. Culture media for generating three-dimensional skin models. 3. Culture media for generating immune-competent three-dimensional skin models

4. Normal human skin in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo for the re-cultivation of remaining skin cells, in particular for the treatment of burn injuries

5. Diseased human skin in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, for the purpose of healthy regeneration of the skin, if necessary after excision of the diseased skin areas 6. Damaged human skin in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, for the purpose of skin regeneration from remaining cells in leg ulcers , Contusions or burns.

The use of the culture media relevant to the skin requires the autologous, healthy and individual regeneration of deficient skin functions in vivo. The regeneration of the skin, the firmness of the skin or simply the contribution to skin care can be significantly improved.

In principle, all tissue and in particular skin cell culture media are suitable for use in cosmetic preparations. In particular and therefore according to the invention but those skin cell culture media are suitable which are used in the literature for the cultivation of skin or skin-relevant cells, for the treatment of skin irritation and burns. Media for the cultivation of remaining cells after massive burns in particular show an extremely advantageous effect after application of the topical preparations, namely a quick, pain-free restoration of the initial state of the healthy skin.

Advantageous skin cell culture media according to the invention are also media which allow the maintenance and neogenesis of fibroblasts or keratinocytes alone or in mixed cultures. The ratios of the contents of the cell culture media to mineral or organic biofactors are selected so that they are suitable for the maintenance, cultivation and care of skin cells in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo.

So-called serum-free media have proven to be particularly advantageous if the cell fraction of the keratinocytes is to be positively influenced in the sense of an optimized homeostasis.

Surprisingly, it was possible to show that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, which contain skin cell culture media for the cultivation of skin cells, are able to activate, in or on the human skin itself, those mechanisms which the skin uses for homeostasis and autopoiesis. Mixtures of fibroblasts or keratinocyte-relevant growth media can be used directly or in suitable vesicle technologies and can be used for medical / pharmaceutical purposes and cosmetic purposes. Suitable vesicle systems are preferably membrane systems, e.g. Liposomes or cyclodextrin preparations as well as micro - or nanoemulsions based on fluid or solid lipids. The advantage of these vesicular applications is the transfer of media to or through the skin barrier at their epidermal or dermal site of action.

This combination of skin cell culture media and vesicle technology, especially cosmetic emulsion preparations, makes it possible to guarantee efficient treatment and care of the skin in the first place. This synergistic combination of the provision of specific, in particular serum-free, skin cell culture media, incorporating them into suitable topical preparations and application of these preparations to the skin creates optimal conditions, which enable the skin to regenerate itself and maintain a healthy flow balance, homeostasis, and to stimulate autopoiesis. Autopoiese, according to the definition by Maturana / Varela, means strict autonomy for living systems on the one hand, on the other hand, this concept emphasizes the intensity and degree of integration between living systems and their environment. Autopoietic systems are structurally determined, ie they are structurally coupled with the medium and other living systems in interactions. For the skin, this autopoiesis means permanent, healthy renewal of itself if the environmental conditions and nutrient offers are adequate. Exactly these conditions and offers are provided by the preparations according to the invention.

Tissue culture media which contain the following constituents in the stated concentration ranges are particularly preferred according to the invention:

A cosmetic preparation comprising a tissue culture medium, containing the components listed in the table, fulfills the task and is excellently suitable for the treatment of skin diseases and for skin, hair and scalp care.

The skin cell culture media DMEM / HAM ^s s F-12 (1: 1) and MCDB 153 are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, individual adaptations of these preparations are advantageous here. These adjustments can be made in the change of

Serum substitute compositions or in varying ratios of the concentrations of the media components. Furthermore, all the modifications are also possible which are produced by neglecting choline chloride, corresponding selenium salts etc.

According to the literature reference from Barnes D. and Sato G .; Anal. Biochem 102, 255 [1980], DMEM / HAM ^Λ s F-12 (1: 1) is a 1: 1 mixture, with the addition of Dulbecco's MEM (DMEM = Dulbesccos Modified Eagles medium) increasing the nutrient content of the Ham's F-12 medium becomes. This medium is the basis for the cultivation of cell lines for human proteins, such as erythropoietin. DMEM / HAM ^'s F-12 (1: 1) is composed of (given in mg / l):

NaCI 6999.5. L-leucine 59

KCI 311, 8 L-lysine-HCl 91, 25

Na ₂ HPO ₄ 71 L-methionine 17.24

NaH ₂ PO ₄ - H ₂ O 62.5 L-phenylalanine 35.5

MgSO ₄ - 7H ₂ 0 100 L-proline 17.25

MgCl ₂ - 6H ₂ 0 61 L-serine 26.25

CaCI ₂ 116.61 L-threonine 53.5

Fe (NO ₃ ) ₃ - 9H ₂ 0 0.05 L-tryptophan 9

FeS0 ₄ - 7H ₂ 0 0.417 L-tyrosine 38.7

CuS0 ₄ - 5H ₂ 0 0.00125 L-valine 52.85

ZnS0 ₄ - 7H ₂ 0 0.432

D-glucose 3151 choline chloride 9

NaHCO ₃ 2438 α-biotin 0.0036E

Na pyruvate 55 folic acid 2.65

Phenol red 12.5 D-Ca pantothenate 2.24 myo-inositol 12.6

L-alanine 4.5 nicotinamide 2.02

L-arginine - HCL 147.5 pyridoxcal - HCI 2

L-Asparagine - H ₂ 0 7.5 pyridoxine - HCL 0.031

L-aspartic acid 6.65 riboflavin 0.22

L-cysteine - HCI 15.75 thiamine - HCI 2.17 L-cystine 24 vitamin B ₁₂ 0.68

L-glutamine 365.3 hypoxanthine 2.05

L-glutamic acid 7.35 thymidine 0.37

Glycine 18.75 lipoic acid 0.11

L-histidine - HCl - H ₂ 0 31, 5 linoleic acid 0.042

L-isoleucine 54.5 putrescine - 2HCI 0.081

MCDB 153 becomes Barnes D. and Sato G .; Anal. Biochem 102, 255 [1980] used for the cultivation of human keratinocytes. Also as minimal medium PBS, phosphate-buffered saline, with pH values from 3.5 to 8.

MCDB 153 is composed of (mg / l):

NaCI 7599 choline chloride 13.96

KCI 11, 83 Putrescin. .1611

Sodium acetate - 3 H ₂ 0 500 vitamin 1312 4.07

Na ₂ HPO ₄ - 7H ₂ O 536.2 biotin 0.01 46

MgCl ₂ - 6H ₂ 0 122 calcium pantothenate 0.258

CaCI ₂ - 2H ₂ O 4.411 nicotinamide 0.03663

Glucose 1081 pyridoxine - HCI 0.06171

Sodium pyruvate 55 thiamine - HCl 0.3373

NaHC03 1176 adenine 24.32

Phenol red 1, 317 myo-inositol 18.02

HEPES 6600 lipoic acid 0.2063

Thymidine 0.7266

L-alanine 8.91 folic acid 0.79

L-arginine - HCI 210.7 riboflavin 0.03764

L-asparagine 15.01

L-Aspartic acid 3.99 CuSO ₄ - 5H ₂ O 0.0002496

L-cysteine - HCI - H2O 42.04 FeSO4 - 7H2O 1, 39

L-glutamine 877.2 MnSO4 - 5H2O 0.000241

L-glutamic acid 14.71 (NH4) 6Mo7O24 - 4H2O0.001236

Glycine 7.51 NiCI2 - 6H2O 0.0001188

L-histidine - HCI - H20 16.77 H2SeO3 0.003869 L-isoleucine 1, 968 Na2SiO3 - 9H20 0.1421

L-Leucine 65.6 SnCI2-2H2O 0.0001128

L-Lysine - HCI 18.27 NH4V03 0.000585

L-methionine 4,476 ZnSO ₄ - 7H ₂ 0 0.144

L-phenylalanine 4.956

L-proline 34.53

L-serine 63.06

L-threonine 11.91

L-tryptophan 3.06

L-tyrosine 2.718

L-valine 35.13

The advantage of the DMEM / HAM ^' s F-12 (1: 1) and MCDB 153 media is that in cosmetic or dermatological preparations they are specially selected and suitable for the cultivation of monolayers, two-dimensional and organotypical skin models, and they are in vitro and Allow ex vivo stimulation or preservation of skin-specific bio functions.

The tissue, in particular skin cell culture media can simply be used as a component of the water phase in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations, and they can also completely replace the water phase of the preparation.

The proportion of tissue culture media is therefore 0.1 to 100% by weight, preferably 1 to

50% by weight, very particularly preferably 40% by weight, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation. According to the invention, this is an aqueous preparation consisting of 100% by weight

Skin cell culture medium, e.g. Use MCDB 153 as indicated above as a cosmetic preparation.

These media can be used alone or in mixtures with relevant serum replacement factors, such as “Serum Replacement A” or “Serum Replacement B” from Seromed. The serum substitutes can be used by osmotic regulators from the groups of proteoglycans, glycoproteins, collagens, chitin derivatives (chitosan) or mixtures thereof, such as, for example, chitosan / chondroitin-6-sulfate / collagen or plant skin function inducers which stimulate are able to optimize essential factors in cell cultures. Trace elements such as serum substitute A from Seromed and / or the addition of extracellular matrix substances such as collagen, chondroitin-6-sulfate and chitosan are also suitable as serum substitutes.

The preparations containing these media and possibly mixtures of serum substitutes (SES), such as the "Chitosan / Chondroitin-6-sulfate / Collagen" used for burns (Damour et al., 1986) and show a particularly good effect on sick, irritated or slightly damaged skin.

A particularly advantageous combination is the combination of cell-nourishing culture media, preferably media for the cultivation of skin or coma cultures of all kinds with a cellular matrix comprising collagen, chitosan with a degree of acetylation of up to 50% and glycosylaminoglycan. The glycosylaminoglycan is selected from chondroitin 4 and / or chondroitin 6 sulfate. A preparation containing collagen, acetylated chitosan with a degree of acetylation of up to 50%, preferably up to 40%, and chondroitin sulfates is therefore particularly preferred. The collagen is preferably obtained from maritime collagens selected from the group of type 3, type 1, type 4 and / or type 5 or mixtures thereof. This combination alone, in admixture with cosmetic preparations or incorporated in polyurethane matrices, has proven to be extremely effective in terms of skin regeneration, skin care and wound healing. The invention enables the regeneration of skin or partial skin from individual cells (dermis and epidermis), as well as the transfer of this in vitro pre-cultivated gel matrix to damaged tissue for complete skin renewal or the prevention or reduction of scar tissue during wound healing. The present invention also provides the ideal environment (matrix) for renewing the skin when applied topically.

The preparation of the matrix is described in EP 296078. The disclosure content of EP 296078 is hereby fully included in the present invention. What is new and unpredictable for the person skilled in the art and thus according to the invention is that the matrix described in EP 296078 can also be obtained in its entirety by maritime and or synthetic raw material sources and leads to the same results as in patent EP 296078 Solutions of the following composition A or B can also advantageously be added to the media as serum substitutes, the concentrations of the solutions depending on the application varying from 0.1 to 10,000 μg.

Solution A Solution B

Components (1000x) μM Components (1000x) μM

FeS0 ₄ - 7H ₂ 0 3000 insulin human in 0.01 M HCI 86

ZnS0 ₄ - 7H ₂ 0 3000

CoCI ₂ - 6H ₂ 0 1000

CuS0 ₄ - 5H ₂ 0 10

Na ₂ SeO ₃ 0

AICI ₃ - 6H ₂ 0 5

CrK (SO ₄ ) ₂ - 12H ₂ 0 1.4

NiCI ₃ - 6H ₂ 0 1

MnCI ₂ - 4H ₂ 0 1

EDTA.Na ₂ - 2H ₂ 0 30000

Polysorbate 80 VG 3820

The serum substitutes are preferably used as osmo regulators.

According to the literature, mostly pure, pyrogen-free water is used for the production of the liquid media, this corresponds to the WFI quality (water for injection) according to Pharmacopoeia Europe. The liquid media are sterile filtered and filled, whereby the systems and manufacturing instructions are designed so that the entry of endotoxins and germs is largely excluded. In addition to high-purity, pyrogen-free water, pure spring water can also be used.

Even when the media composition changes, such as with or without choline chloride, with or without H ₂ SeO ₃ , the media according to the invention have advantageous properties with regard to skin regeneration.

Glutamine and / or stabilized glutamine, stabilized glutamine N-acteyl-alanyl glutamine, can optionally be added to the media. These combinations also have advantages. The tissue, in particular skin cell culture media and any additives are mixed in cosmetic or dermatological preparations in a proportion of up to 99.9% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. The water-free dosage form, for example in the form of “sponges” or powders, and thus also the 100% use of the skin cell culture media for skin treatment can also advantageously be possible.

Depending on the field of application and the tissue to be treated, it is possible for the person skilled in the art to improve or optimize the culture conditions by modifying the media components. The culture conditions can thus be individually adapted to the respective purpose by using the components and their proportions modified compared to the standard media.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations are to be understood as topical preparations which are suitable for applying the media mentioned to the skin in a fine distribution and preferably in a form which can be absorbed by the skin. For this, z. B. aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic solutions, sprays, foams, foam aerosols, ointments, aqueous gels, emulsions of O / W, W / O or W / OΛ / V type, microemulsions or cosmetic stick preparations. A particularly preferred carrier is an aqueous gel, an O / W emulsion or a microemulsion. For the purposes of the invention. the preparation also in personal cleansers such. B. soaps, shower rooms, shampoos and. Ä. are used.

In particular, the cosmetic formulations are O / W emulsions.

All lipids known in cosmetics can be used as the oil or lipid phase.

In the context of the present disclosure, the term “lipids” is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art. The terms “oil phase” and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.

Suitable polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

Particularly advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase has a content of C ₁₂ - having ₁ Alkylbeπzoat 5- or consists entirely of this.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise according to the reaction equation

R

I

R - CH2 - CH2 - OH R - CH - CH2 - OH

catalyst

by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and practically cause no skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure

H

R1 C - CH ₂ - -OH

R ₂ off. Ri and R ₂ generally mean unbranched alkyl radicals. According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the

Group where

Ri = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and

R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure

H

H ₉ C4 C CH ₂ OH

C ₈ H- | 7 and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol ^® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure

H

Hi ₃ C ₆ - C - CH ₂ OH

C10H21 and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH. Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention can also be used advantageously according to the invention. Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase. Particularly advantageous medium-polar lipis in the sense of the present invention are the substances listed below:

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Particularly advantageous non-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are the substances listed below:

However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar lipids and the like. Thus, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like, provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, camauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfett, cerinin Earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _8-3 6 - fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C ₃₀ - ₅ o-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as. B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters. such as C ₂₀ - ₄ o-alkyl stearate, C _2Q- o-alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also particularly advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethyisilane, provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present either individually or in a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _2- i _like -Alky benzoate!, Caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether provided the conditions required in the main claim Conditions are met.

Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C ₁₂ -is alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12- ₅ -alkybenzoicaprate and butylate glycolate / butylate glycolate are particularly advantageous Mixtures of C _2-15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially or completely from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are usually characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyi groups, etc.) are saturated.

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

where the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.

The linear silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are distinguished by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [polydimethylsiloxane)], which, for. B. are available under the trade names ABIL 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiaioxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as ^• different abil wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.

The silicone oils listed below are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention:

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

the v silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle. , , '

Particularly advantageous cyclic silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention are cyclomethicones, in particular cyclomethicones D5 and / or cyclomethicones D6.

Advantageous silicone oils or silicone waxes in the sense of the present invention are cyclic and / or linear silicone oils and silicone waxes.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the ratio of lipids to silicone oils approximately as 1: 1 (generally x: y).

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, poly-siloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol and the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are a) partial and fatty acid ester of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (eg. B. Giycerylmonostearate, sorbitan stearates, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (such as Triton X)

The anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

The cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride

The amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO ~ (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O -) _n -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R ~ COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', - of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O--) _π -C (O) -R ', the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters of cholesterol ethoxylates - the ethoxylated triglycerides of alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _π -SO ₃ -H - the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R \ of the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, - the etherified fatty acid propoxylates

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH3) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO ~ (-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the propoxylated sorbitan esters of cholesterol propoxylates - the propoxylated triglycerides of alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula ^• RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-), _r CH ₂ -COθH of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula R.-O - (- CH _r CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H - the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-0-X _n -Y _m -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

ROX _n ~ Y _m -R ', the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R ~ COO-X _n ~ Y _m -R \ of the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

Particularly advantageously according to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5 - 15.5 if the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or FI ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particularly preferred are: polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (Steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (Steareth-4), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (Steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - stearyl ether (Steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (.20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20), Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene 6) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-1δ), F'o (yethyleneg! Ycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isosteary! Ether (isosteareth-18), polyethyleneglycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth - 19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetytether (Ceteth-7), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylether (Ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cefylether (Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylether (Ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (3) oleyl ether (O! Eth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isoureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), polyethylene! Englycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-15), polyethylene g! Ycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth ), Polyethylene glycol (17) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cety! Stearyl ether (ceteareth-9), polyethylene glycol! (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth -20)

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group: Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, Polyethy! Englycol (21) stearate, Polyethy! Englycol (22) stearate, Polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, Polyethylene g! Ycol (24) stearate, Polyethylene glycol (25) - stearate,

Polyethylene! (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol! (21) isostearate, polyethylene glyco! (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol! (23) isαstearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol! (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or salt thereof become.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as the alkyl ether sulfate.

As an ethoxylated cholesterol clerival, polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glyco! (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene! Eng! Ycol (23) glycery! Laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

It is also favorable to sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) to choose bitanmonoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

The following can be used as advantageous W / O emulsifiers: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or uns ttigter, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, diglycerol rylmonoisostearat, lenglycolmonocaprylat propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene, Propylenglycoimαnolaurat, sorbitan, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chirnyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl mono laurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

/

The emulsifier systems mentioned can be added to the preparations. Steareth-2, Steareth 21 and PEG-20-100 stearate are advantageous emulsifier systems.

In addition to water and physiologically suitable solvents, caring ingredients, oils, waxes, fats, lipid-replenishing substances, antioxidants, emulsifiers, substances suitable as sun protection filters, enzymes, amino acids, proteins, Polysaccharie and / or Duffstoffe be included. According to the invention, the preparations contain, in addition to the substances mentioned above, the additives which are customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments , which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Suitable preparations are also those that can be used for professional wound care or wound healing, such as polyurethane preparations or wound dressings, chitosan / cola agents / chondroitin-6-suifat sponges or solutions.

The skin oil culture media can, for example, also be incorporated into polymer matrices, such as in particular polyurethane matrices, and used as wound dressings. The incorporation can be carried out directly or advantageously encapsulated. Suitable encapsulation materials are known to the person skilled in the art and are known from the prior art.

The added antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, lysine, arginine, cysteine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside) , Peptide and lipid linkage), imidazoie (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid linkage), peptides such as D , L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-gamosine, anserine and their derivatives (eg as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thioi, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid compound), carotenoids , Caroline (e.g. α-carotene, ß-ca'otin, ψ-lycopene _r phytoene,) and their derivatives (e.g. as salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide) and / or lipid binding),. Chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof (as _salt.. Ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid compounds), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, lipoic acid, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyi, N-acetyi, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, Oleyl, γ-lenoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, Peptide and / or lipid linkage) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg). Furthermore (metal) chelators (eg apoferritin, desferral, lactoferrin, α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid) and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, Peptide and / or lipid compound), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biiverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ- Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone, ubiquinol, plastoquinone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid compounds), vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), and phenolic compounds and plant extracts containing them, such as, for. B. flavonoids (e.g. glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid), furfurylidene glucitol, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone and their derivatives (as salt, ester, nucleotide, sugar, sugar) , Peptide and lipid linkage). Uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives (as salt, ester, ether, sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid compound). Zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine, Ebselen), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (as salt, ester, ether , Sugar, thiol, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and / or lipid compound) of these active ingredients mentioned.

Additional use of a buffer is not necessary since the pH fluctuations in the preparations according to the invention are negligible. A pH adjustment of the finished preparation to a value corresponding to a suitable value for use on human skin is advantageous.

The preparations according to the invention are prepared, for example as an emulsion, by known production processes. First, an emulsion from the oil and formed in the water phase and then added the aqueous cell culture media phase.

The incorporation of the cell culture media into the cosmetic formulations should follow at a maximum of 48 ° C, preferably at less than 35 ° C, ideally at 30 ° C due to the thermolability of the medium.

The medium is added slowly and the temperature fluctuates by more than max. Avoid 4-5 ° C.

The medium is advantageously stored and also used at refrigerator temperatures, thus avoiding excessive cooling during production, since it may crystallization and inhomogeneities can occur.

However, it can be produced in particular at higher temperatures and the particular, effective usability of the preparations according to the invention is given at temperatures around the body temperature range.

The disadvantage of cosmetic preparations from the prior art is their instability and the problem of preservation. This can be done by selecting suitable formulation technologies, such as two-chamber systems,

Cartridge packaging or multiple emulsions can be guaranteed. Cell culture media are just as suitable for stabilizing W / O / W technologies as physiological saline solutions.

First attempts, so-called. .. Preservative exposure tests of the preparations according to the invention showed no susceptibility to contamination. Tests were carried out with the cosmetically customary use concentrations of preservatives ¹ . Table 1 shows a list of the preservatives used.

ZubereitungsNr. Preservative INCI use concentration in% Uniphene phenoxyethanol (74%) 1.0

Methyl paraben (15%) ethyl paraben (4%) butyl paraben (4%) isobutyl paraben (2%) propyl paraben (1%)

The formulations tested 1-1, 1-2, 2-1, 4-1 are O / W emulsions and a cleaning lotion (2-1).

Preparation 1-1 and 2-1 contains the keratinocyte medium MCDB 153, preparation 1-2 and 4-1 DMEM / HAM's F-12. The emulsifier system is identical for samples 1-1 and 1-2.

All stress tests showed positive results, i.e. no instabilities or germs.

Despite the excellent stability of the preparations according to the invention, it is nevertheless recommended to choose the packaging of the cosmetic so that it offers optimal protection of the cosmetic against contamination.

The packaging should be selected according to microbiological standards in order not to allow a possible recontamination by the customer. In the case of problematic formulations, where the cell medium cannot be incorporated immediately during the preparation of the preparation, it is possible to mix the cell culture medium and the cosmetic product only before use. According to the invention, this is achieved by special packaging elements, such as e.g. Double cartridges with mixing head, as they are known for example from 2-component glue, are guaranteed. The packaging of the cell culture medium could also be designed for refilling so that only fresh product is used. As mentioned, the use of powdered or solid skin cell culture media is also possible.

Advantageous exemplary embodiments of the present invention follow. The quantities given always relate to percentages by weight based on the total mass of the preparation, unless stated otherwise. Example 1, O / W emulsion

WATER (AQUA) 69% thereof KERATINOZYTENMEDIUM MCDB153 40%

GLYCERINE 4.3%

HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES 3.0%

SQUALANE 2.5%

GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 2.5%

CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2.5%

ETHYLHEXYL COCOATE 2.3%

MYRISTYL ALCOHOL 2.2%

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) 2.0%

BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.0%

CETYL ALCOHOL 1.8%

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 2.0%

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.74%

SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.33%

IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA 0.3%

CARBOMER 0.26%

XANTHAN GUM 0.2%

METHYL PARABLES 0.15%

EDTA 0.1%

SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.05%

BHT 0.05%

ETHYL PARABLES 0.04%

BUTYL PARABLES 0.04%

ISOBUTYL PARABLES 0.02%

PROPYL PARABLES 0.01%

Example 2 W / O / W emulsion

PEG 100 stearate 2.00%

Glyceryl stearate 4.00%

Squalane 1, 50%

Squalene 1, 50%

Isopropyl palmitate 5.40% Magnesium sulfate 0.60%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ^• ad 100.00% thereof DME / HAM ^' s F-12 (1: 1) 0.5%

The fat phase, which contains the emulsifier, is heated to 80 ° C, the water phase as well, without the part that contains the medium. At 80 ° C both phases are combined, homogenized for about 3 - 10 minutes and then cooled to 48 ° C or room temperature. Then the water content is added to the medium and mixed with a constant temperature of ± 1 ° C. The following preparations are prepared accordingly.

Example 3

PEG-40 stearate 1.00%

Glyceryl stearate 2.00%

Cetyl alcohol 3.00%

Mineral oil DAB 9 2.00%

Safflower oil 2.00%

Isopropyl palmitate 4.50%

Glycerin 3.00%

Magnesium sulfate 1.20%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof DMEM / HAM ^' s F-12 (1: 1) 2.5%

Example 4

PEG-80 stearate 2.00%

Cetyl alcohol 3.00%

Mineral oil DAB 9 1, 50% evening primrose oil 2.50%

Isopropyl palmitate 5.40%

Propylene glycol 3.00%

Potassium chloride 0.60%

Preservative 0.50% Water VES ad 100.00% thereof DMEM / HAM ^'s F-12 (1: 1) 5%

Example 5

Steareth-100 2.00%

Myristyl alcohol 1.00%

Mineral oil DAB 9 3.00%.

Castor oil 3.00% ^'

Cyclomethicone 2.00%

Propylene glycol 3.00%

Glycerin 5.00%

Potassium chloride 3.00%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 0.5%

Example 6

Steareth-20 2.00%

Cetearyl 3.00%

Vaseline 0.50%

Wheat germ oil 1.50%

Dimethicone 5.00%

Glycerin 5.00%

Sodium chloride 3.00%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof DMEM / HAM ^' s F-12 (1: 1) 15%

Example 6a

Dimethicone Copolyol 2.00%

Cetearyl alcohol 3.00%

Vaseline 0.50%

Wheat germ oil, 50%

Dimethicone 6.00% Glycerin 5.00% sodium chloride 3.00% preservative 0.50% water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 1.5%

Example 7

PEG-20 behenate 2.00%

Stearyl alcohol 3.00% Vaseline 1.00%

Grape seed oil 3.00%

Dimethicone 3.00%

Sorbitol 5.00%

Zinc sulfate 3.00% preservative. 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 5%

Example 7a

Decaglyn 1-IS 2.00%

Stearyl alcohol 3.00%

Vaseline 1.00%

Grape seed oil 3.00%

Dimethicone 3.00%

Sorbitol 5.00%

Zinc sulfate 3.00%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 40%

Example 8 PEG-20 Myristate 2.00%

Stearyl alcohol 3.00%

Vaseline 2.00% Castor oil 5.00%

Dimethicone 5.00%

Sorbitol 5.00%

Zinc sulfate 3.00%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 0.1%

Example 8a Sucroselaurate 2.00%

Stearyl alcohol 3.00%

Vaseline 2.00%

Castor oil 5.00%

Dimethicone 5.00% sorbitol 5.00%

Zinc sulfate 3.00%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 .12%

Example 9

PEG-80 behenate 2.00%

Glyceryl behenate 4.00%

Squalane 3.00% castor oil 5.40%

Glycerin 6.00%

Magnesium sulfate 2.60%

Preservative 0.50%

Water VES ad 100.00% thereof MCDB 153 8.5%

Example 10 (O / W emulsion):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00 Stearyl alcohol 1.00

Octylclodecanol 1, 00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1, 00

Dicaprylyl ether 1,00 carbomer 0.15

Glycerin 3.00 perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 thereof DMEM / HAM ^'s F-12 (1: 1) 2.5% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 11 (Q / W-EmuisionV.

% By weight glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00

Stearyl alcohol 1, 00

Octyldodecanol 0.25

Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 0.25

Dicaprylyl ether 0.25 carbomer 0.15

Glycerin 3 ^' , 00

Perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants eic. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 0.5% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 12 (O / W emulsion):

% By weight glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00

Behenyl alcohol 1.00

Dimethicone 1, 50

Cycolmethicon 1.50

Carbomer 0.15 Glycerin 6.00 perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 thereof DMEM / HAM ^'s F-12 (1: 1) 5% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 13 (O / W emulsion):

% By weight glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00

Stearyl alcohol 1, 00

Octyldodecanol 0.25

Caprylic / Capric. Triglycerides 0.25

Dicaprylyl ether 0.25 Dimethicone 0.50

Carbomer 0.15

Glycerin 3.00

Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate 0.50

Talc 0.50 bentonite 0.50 perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 80% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 14 (O / W emulsion):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00 Cetyl alcohol 1.00

Squalane 1.00

Jojoba oil, 00

Paraffinum liquidum ^' 1, 00

Carbomer 0.10 Glycerin 3.00 serine 0.50

Tocopherol acetate 1.00 carbomer 0.10 xanthan gum 0.10

Perfume, preservatives, NaOH dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 75.5% pH adjusted to 6.0

Example 15 (O / W emulsion):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00 cetyl alcohol 0.50

Octyldodecanol 0.40

Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 0.40

Dicaprylyl ether 0.40

Carbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00

Serine 0.50%

Perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 40% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 16 (Emulsion Makeup):

% By weight glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00 stearyl alcohol 1.00 dimethicone 0.50 glycerol 1.50 1.3 butylene glycol 1.50 Magnesium silicate 1.00

Mica 1, 00

Iron oxides 1, 00

Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00

Carbomer 0.15 perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 20% pH adjusted to 5.5

This example shows in an impressive manner the advantageous use according to the invention of a cosmetic preparation containing skin cell culture medium. Since the preparation can be used as make-up, it enables the user to cover it cosmetically, for example in the event of fire injuries, and likewise the user contributes to the regeneration and restoration of the injured skin without being externally visible. '

Example 17 (Q / W emulsion):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate. 3.00

Stearyl alcohol 1, 00

Octyldodecanol 0.25, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride ^" 0.25

Dicaprylyl ether 0.25

Octyl methoxycinnamate 4.00

Benzophenone-3 3.00

Octyl salicylate 3.00 carbomer 0.15

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 40% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 18 (O / W emulsion):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00

Stearyl alcohol 1, 00

Octyldodecanol 0.50

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.50 Dicaprylylether 0.50

Distarch phosphate ^" 1, 00

Ethanol 10.00

Carbomer 0.15

Glycerin 3.00 perfume, preservative, NaOl-

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which MCDB 153 35% pH adjusted to 5.5

Example 19 (emulsifier):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00

Stearyl alcohol 1.00 ethanol 2.00

Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate 0.25

Talc 0.25

Tapioca starch 0.25

Carbomer 0.15 glycerin 3.00

Perfume, preservative, NaOH

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 of which DMEM / HAM ^' ε F-12 (1: 1) 3.5% pH adjusted to 5.5

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing one or more tissue culture media, in particular skin cell culture media.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one skin cell culture medium is present in admixture with one or more further tissue culture media.

3. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the media or their mixtures are present as part of the water phase of the preparation in a proportion of 0.1-100% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the tissue culture medium comprises the following components in the concentration ranges in mg / l:

Biotin 0.0036 0.0146

CaCI2. 2 H2O 4.41 116.61

Calcium pantothenate 0.25 2.24

Cholene chloride 9 13.96

CuSO4. 5 H2O 0.0002496 0.0012:

D-glucose 1081 3151

FeSÖ4. 7 H2O 0.417 1.39

Folic acid 0.79 2.65

Glycine 7.51 18.75

Inositol 12.6 18.02

KCΪ 111, 83 311, 8

L-A! Anin 4.5 8.91

L-arginine. HCI 147.5 210.7

L-asparagine 7.5 15.01

L-aspartic acid 3.99 6.65

L ~ cysteine. HCI 15.75 42.04

L-glutamine 365.3 877.2

L-glutamic acid 7.35 14.71 L-histidines. HCI. H2O 16.77 31.5

Lipoic acid 0.11 0.2063

L-isoleucine 1, 968 54.5

L-leucine 59 65.6

L-lysine. HCI 18.27 91.25

L-methionine 4,475 17,24

L-phenylalanine 4.956 35.5

L-proline 17.25, 34.53

L-serine 26.25 63.06

L-threonine 11, 91 53.5

L-tyrosine 2.718 38.7

L-valine 35.13 52.85

MgC ⁽ 2.6 H2O 61 122

Na2HPO4. 7 H2O 71 536.2

NaCl 6999.5 7599

NaHCO3 1176 2438

Sodium pyruvate 47 63

Nicotinamide 0.03663 2.02

Pyridoxine HCI 0.031 0.06171

Riboflavin 0.03764 0.2.2

Thiamine HCI 0.3373 2.17

Thymidine 0.37 0.7266

Vitamin B12 (cobalamin) 0.68 4.07

5. Preparation according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the medium is selected from DMEM / HA's F-12 (1: 1) and / or MCDB 153.

6. Preparation according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, characterized in that the media are serum-free.

7. Preparation according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, characterized in that a mixture comprising collagen, chitosan with a degree of acetylation up to 50% and glycosylaminoglycan are added.

8. Preparation according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 7, characterized in that serum substitutes, in particular chitosan, chondroitin-6-sulfate, collagen or mixtures thereof, or vegetable skin function inducers are added.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, spray, foam, aerosol foam, ointment, aqueous gel, emulsion of O / W, W / O or W / O / W type, microemulsion or cosmetic stick preparation.

10. Preparation according to claim 9, characterized in that the preparation is an O / W emulsion.

11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that glutamine is added to the media.

12. Use of the preparations according to one of claims 1 to 11 for use on healthy, irritated and / or diseased skin.

13. Use of the preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11 for topical application on the skin, scalp or on the hair in the form of an aqueous surfactant preparation, an emulsion, an ointment or cream, a gel, a powder, a mask, a matrix patch, a gel patch, foam or aerosol preparation.

14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the emulsion is an O / W emulsion or the matrix patch is a polyurethane matrix.

15. Use of the preparation according to claim 14 in wound care or wound healing, in particular in the form of polyurethane-based wound dressings.

16. Use of the preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11 as an anhydrous dosage form, in particular in the form of sponges or powders.

17. Use of the preparation according to one of claims 1 to 1, characterized in that the tissue culture medium is mixed with the other cosmetic components of the preparation only immediately before use.

18. Use of the preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the ratios of the (ingredients of the cell culture media to mineral or organic biofactors are selected such that they are used for the maintenance, cultivation and care of skin cells in vitro, are suitable ex vivo and in vivo.

19: Use of the preparation according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the substitutes are used as osmo regulators.

20. Use of the preparation according to one of claims 1 to 11 a. for the cultivation, maintenance or care in vitro, ex vivo and / or in vivo of fibroblast cells, keratinocyte cells, co-cultures from keratinocytes and fibroblasts, co-cultures from fibroblasts / keratinocytes and other skin-relevant cells such as immune cells, melanocytes, b. to generate three-dimensional skin models, c. to generate immune-competent three-dimensional skin models, d. for the maintenance or care of normal human skin in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, in particular for the re-cultivation of remaining skin cells, in particular for the treatment of burn injuries, e. for the maintenance or care of diseased human skin in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, in particular for the regeneration of the skin if necessary after excision of the diseased areas of skin and / or f. for the maintenance or care of damaged human skin in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, in particular for the regeneration of the skin from remaining cells in leg ulcers, contusions or burns.