EP1478324A1 - Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type aqueux - Google Patents

Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type aqueux

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Publication number
EP1478324A1
EP1478324A1 EP03702638A EP03702638A EP1478324A1 EP 1478324 A1 EP1478324 A1 EP 1478324A1 EP 03702638 A EP03702638 A EP 03702638A EP 03702638 A EP03702638 A EP 03702638A EP 1478324 A1 EP1478324 A1 EP 1478324A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sun protection
preparations according
phase
acid
emulsion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03702638A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jens Schulz
Anja Göppel
Simone Budow
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1478324A1 publication Critical patent/EP1478324A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations, one phase of which contains an O / W emulsion and the other phase of which contains a lipophilic or aqueous solution, at least one of the two phases being non-transparent and / or translucent, and the use thereof.
  • UVB range wavelength: 280-320 nm
  • UVB and UVA radiation wavelength: 320-400 nm
  • UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • LSF MED erythema threshold dose (minimum erythemal
  • UV light protection filters approved for cosmetic applications also include compounds of the basic structure of triazine:
  • UV light protection filters is derived from benzimidazole sulfonic acids:
  • Sun protection preparations are usually offered in the form of emulsions.
  • these homogeneous preparations are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring.
  • the possibilities for making these formulations more visually attractive are limited.
  • consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good” afterwards.
  • two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert to a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then apply To mix "before each application, the homogeneous emulsion must separate again within a reasonable time. This is the only way to match the play instinct of the consumer and ensure the enjoyment of the application.
  • the two-phase products enable completely new optical design options.
  • the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations containing a) an O / W emulsion, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one O / W emulsifier, d) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter substance, characterized in that at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent.
  • O / W means oil-in-water.
  • Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the O / W emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase are separately layered on top of each other.
  • the O / W emulsion is regarded as one phase in this consideration, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that O / W emulsions are formed per se from two phases which are homogenized with one another.
  • the O / W emulsion is long-term stable. This means that segregation or phase separation does not occur over a longer period (months, years).
  • the peculiarity of the present invention lies in the fact that the O / W emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another.
  • These two phases or layers can be emulsified, for example, by shaking for a short time to form a homogeneous emulsion, which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather over a period of minutes, hours or days, again to form an O / W emulsion layered over one another and lipophilic or aqueous Separate phase.
  • the amount of the lipophilic or aqueous phase is 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
  • the sun protection preparations according to the invention are distinguished by the fact that they contain one or more O / W emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • the separation rate of the preparation according to the invention which has been homogenized by shaking can be precisely adjusted.
  • the O / W emulsifier (s) are preferably selected from the following group:
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, ethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate) and / or phosphate emulsifiers are used as O / W emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous according to the invention.
  • Embodiments of the invention which are advantageous according to the invention can also contain additional W / O emulsifiers (water-in-oil emulsifiers) with an HLB value ⁇ 9 as coemulsifiers.
  • cetyldimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol, glyceryl isostearate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate are used particularly advantageously as W / O emulsifiers.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase and / or the emulsion phase.
  • UV filter substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be present in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations, the natural oils and the synthetic oils being replaced by UV filters and / or silicone derivatives which are liquid at room temperature.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • SiSO barium sulfate
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron oxide
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamin ⁇ r2 ⁇ hydroxybenzoyl) - benzoic acid hexyl ester, which, for example, from BASF under the
  • benzoxazole derivatives such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ) Cas no .: 103597r 45-1, which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazoI-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4-bis- (2- benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2,4-bis- [5- 1
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and serve the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as are usually used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries such as are usually used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred.
  • Can be used according to the invention "favorable antioxidants all customary or suitable for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles for example urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones,
  • sulfoximine compounds eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • ⁇ -glycosyl rutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • An aqueous phase which is present as a second, independent water phase or the water phase of the O / W emulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, in particular, and electrolytes one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g.
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • self-tanning substances such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck)
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z.
  • B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch vate (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither UV filter nor coloring effect (e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • a second lipophilic phase which is present as an independent oil phase and / or the oil phase of the O / W emulsion of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • Ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n, decyl isonononylononylononylononyl, n-iso-stonate, n-decyl-isononyl-isonate -Ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, o
  • oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • oil component or components from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12- 3- alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention contains or consists entirely of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate ⁇ Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • B. butyl octyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof Hallstar AB
  • diethyl hexyl naphthalate ⁇ Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R
  • the oil phases can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), Paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), Paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phases can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated).
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCl). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, from Th. Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes IMCl: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • INCl amino-modified silicones
  • amodimethicone and silicone wax amino-modified silicones
  • polysiloxane-polyethylene copolymers IRCl: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone
  • dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example Cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
  • Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO ⁇ s and / or R 3 SiO 0 ⁇ 5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C 1-24 -alkyl (such as, for example Methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO 1 ⁇ 5 is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used so chosen the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) • is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and • in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof. It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) is in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the individual phases of the preparation can advantageously be colored differently.
  • Embodiments of the invention in which only one of the two phases is colored are also advantageous according to the invention.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 1 FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfo- 1478
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred: 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • metal oxides such as. B. silica and the like.
  • Ronaspheren TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are mixed with them various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy, etc.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Bayrein CX 100.
  • EDDS EDTA
  • [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest
  • pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate which, for. B.
  • Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodis
  • the viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas).
  • the very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
  • the choice of which phase floats on the other can be determined in a simple manner which is obvious to the person skilled in the art.
  • the layer sequence of the individual phases depends on their density. This can be adjusted almost arbitrarily by varying the concentration of individual components of the respective phases.
  • the person skilled in the art is of course aware that the demixing speed of the two phases, after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking, can also be set in a targeted manner by selecting the density of the individual phases, the principle that the demixing speed increases with the difference in density of the two phases , Since the compositions of both phases can be varied according to the invention, the layer sequence and the separation rate can also be varied according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as an ointment, cream or lotion.
  • Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. of a pump spray advantageous according to the invention, the preparations advantageously also being able to be foamed.
  • the mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization.
  • the O / W emission is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the aqueous - or the lipophilic phase is added with stirring.
  • the rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization.
  • the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers. Or alternatively both phases are filled one after the other (layered) into the final containers. With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
  • phase-volume ratios of the O / W emulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.
  • the two-phase system is produced by a process known to those skilled in the art for producing an O / W emulsion.
  • the aqueous or lipophilic phase begins to separate within 1 to 1 hour.
  • the phase-volume ratio is determined for this production before the production of the O / W emulsion.
  • the total olphase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight.
  • the total water phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight.
  • a particularly good homogenization before filling or, on the other hand, filling with stirring is suitable. With both filling variants, it must be ensured that a constant phase volume ratio is maintained.
  • the respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3.
  • the separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3.
  • the separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations de protection solaire cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à deux phases, qui contiennent a) une émulsion de type aqueux, b) une phase lipophile ou aqueuse, c) au moins un émulsifiant de type aqueux, ainsi que d) au moins un filtre UV organique ou inorganique. Les préparations selon l'invention sont caractérisées en ce qu'au moins une phase n'est pas transparente ou translucide.
EP03702638A 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type aqueux Ceased EP1478324A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10206798 2002-02-19
DE2002106798 DE10206798A1 (de) 2002-02-19 2002-02-19 Zweiphasige Sonnenschutzzubereitungen mit O/W-Emulsion
PCT/EP2003/001478 WO2003070201A1 (fr) 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type aqueux

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EP1478324A1 true EP1478324A1 (fr) 2004-11-24

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EP (1) EP1478324A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE10206798A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2003070201A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102004002612A1 (de) * 2004-01-15 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
EP1586306A1 (fr) * 2004-03-23 2005-10-19 Beiersdorf AG Compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques de protection solaire
DE102004020627A1 (de) * 2004-03-23 2005-10-13 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen
DE102004047285A1 (de) * 2004-09-27 2006-04-20 Beiersdorf Ag Organische Mikropigmente enthaltende kosmetische Lichtschutzemulsion
US20070297996A1 (en) * 2006-06-22 2007-12-27 The Procter & Gamble Company Multi-phase composition comprising a sunscreen
US8486425B1 (en) 2012-08-08 2013-07-16 L'oreal Two-phase sunscreen composition
JP7158844B2 (ja) * 2017-11-28 2022-10-24 ロレアル 二相サンケア組成物
JP2020105074A (ja) * 2018-12-11 2020-07-09 ロレアル 二相サンケア組成物
CN112842926A (zh) * 2021-04-01 2021-05-28 科丝美诗(中国)化妆品有限公司 一种水包硅油化妆品及其制备方法

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US6106847A (en) * 1996-09-13 2000-08-22 Lancaster Group Gmbh Stable multiple phase emulsion of the type O1 /W/O2

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US5985177A (en) * 1995-12-14 1999-11-16 Shiseido Co., Ltd. O/W/O type multiple emulsion and method of preparing the same
DE19548016A1 (de) * 1995-12-21 1997-06-26 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an in gelöster Form vorliegenden, an sich schwerlöslichen UV-Filtersubstanzen, insbesondere Triazinderivaten
DE19726189A1 (de) * 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an in gelöster Form vorliegenden s-Triazinderivaten
DE10121092A1 (de) * 2001-04-26 2002-10-31 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Formulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Sericosid und/oder Pflanzenextrakten, dasselbe enthaltend

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US6106847A (en) * 1996-09-13 2000-08-22 Lancaster Group Gmbh Stable multiple phase emulsion of the type O1 /W/O2

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See also references of WO03070201A1 *

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WO2003070201A1 (fr) 2003-08-28

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