EP1478325A1 - Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type huileux - Google Patents

Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type huileux

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Publication number
EP1478325A1
EP1478325A1 EP03704616A EP03704616A EP1478325A1 EP 1478325 A1 EP1478325 A1 EP 1478325A1 EP 03704616 A EP03704616 A EP 03704616A EP 03704616 A EP03704616 A EP 03704616A EP 1478325 A1 EP1478325 A1 EP 1478325A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
phase
preparations according
acid
emulsion
advantageous
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03704616A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jens Schulz
Anja Göppel
Simone Budow
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1478325A1 publication Critical patent/EP1478325A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations, one phase of which contains a W / O emulsion and the other phase of which contains a lipophilic or aqueous phase, with at least one phase which is not transparent and / or translucent, and the use thereof.
  • UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • UV light protection filters approved for cosmetic applications also include compounds of the basic structure of triazine:
  • UV light protection filters is derived from benzimidazole sulfonic acids:
  • Sun protection preparations are usually offered in the form of emulsions.
  • these homogeneous preparations are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring.
  • the possibilities for making these formulations more visually attractive are limited.
  • consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good” afterwards.
  • two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert to a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then apply to allow mix "before each use, the homogeneous emulsion, however, must in a timely re-segregate. Only then ⁇ can complied with the playfulness of consumers and the joy be guaranteed to the application.
  • allow two-phase products completely new optical design possibilities.
  • the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparations containing a) a W / O emulsion, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one W / O emulsifier, d) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter substance, characterized in that at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent.
  • W / O stands for water-in-oil emulsion or emulsifier.
  • Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase are separately layered on top of each other.
  • the W / O emulsion is regarded as one phase in this consideration, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that W / O emulsions are in themselves formed from two phases homogenized with one another.
  • the W / O emulsion is long-term stable. This means that it will last for an extended period of time. (Months, years) there is no segregation or phase separation.
  • the peculiarity of the present invention is that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another. These two phases or layers can be, for example, through. Briefly emulate the shaking to a homogeneous emulsion, which is not stable in the long term, but rather segregate over a period of minutes, hours or days into a layered W / O emulsion and lipophilic or aqueous phase.
  • the amount of the lipophilic or aqueous phase is 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
  • the sun protection preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain one or more W / O emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • the separation rate of the preparation according to the invention which has been homogenized by shaking can be precisely adjusted.
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) can be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers.
  • the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure: in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number from 1 to 100.
  • silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183.
  • cetyl dimethicone copolyol is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
  • cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
  • the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
  • Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is 'octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside' from Wacker.
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) according to the invention can preferably be selected from the following group:
  • lipophilic components and emulsifiers are advantageous, among others: ' Sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methylglucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral with petrolatum, ozokerite, glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl 3-oleate, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate 2 in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil.
  • cetyldimethicone copolyol, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate are particularly advantageously used as W / O emulsifiers.
  • Embodiments of the invention which are advantageous according to the invention can also contain additional O / W emulsifiers (oil-in-water emulsifiers) as coemulsifiers.
  • the O / W emulsifier (s) are preferably selected from the following group:
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, ethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate) and / or phosphate emulsifiers are used as O / W emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous according to the invention - as coemulsifiers.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ) ,
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in the pigments being treated in a manner known per se with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , Sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O aluminum oxide
  • Al aluminum hydroxide Al
  • Al oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 e.g., sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • SiSO barium sulfate
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron oxide
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus.
  • benzoxazole derivatives such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), CAS No .:
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2,4-bis- [5- 1 (dimethylprop
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the sunscreen preparations advantageous according to the invention contain, as organic filters, asymmetrically substituted triazines, bisimidazylates and / or benzotriazoles.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and serve the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliary substances, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, pent
  • sulfoximine compounds eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocy
  • chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
  • ascorbyl palmitate Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, -Glycosylrutin, Ferulaklare,.
  • zinc and its derivatives eg ZnO, ZnSO
  • selenium and its derivatives e.g. selenium methylene derivatives, e.g. stilbene and its derivatives
  • Trans-stilbene oxide the derivatives suitable according to the invention
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • An aqueous phase present as a second, independent water phase or the water phase of the W / O emulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, in particular, and electrolytes one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageous
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • self-tanning substances such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck)
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • a second lipophilic phase, which is present as an independent oil phase, or the oil phase of the W / O emulsion of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • Ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate,
  • oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -Alkyltartrat , Triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethylisosorbide.
  • oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the Hallbrite BHB trade name from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • the oil phases can also advantageously also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • nonpolar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phases can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated).
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, from Th. Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000.
  • Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone and silicone wax).
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different types of abil wax.
  • silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
  • Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO ⁇ and / or R 3 SiO 0.5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C 1-24 -alkyl (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO 1 ⁇ 5 is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
  • organopolysiloxane is not cyclic
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) is in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the individual phases of the preparation can advantageously be colored differently.
  • Embodiments of the invention in which only one of the two phases is colored are also advantageous according to the invention.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In in most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3.
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
  • It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred.
  • Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which, inter alia, from Bayer AG is available under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.
  • EDDS EDTA
  • [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest
  • pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate which, for. B.
  • Dequest 2046 from Monsanto
  • iminodisuccinic acid which
  • the viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas).
  • the very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
  • the choice of which phase floats on the other can be determined in a simple manner which is obvious to the person skilled in the art.
  • the layer sequence of the individual phases depends on their density. This can be adjusted almost arbitrarily by varying the concentration of individual components of the respective phases.
  • the person skilled in the art is of course aware that the demixing speed of the two phases, after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking, can also be set in a targeted manner by selecting the density of the individual phases, the principle that the demixing speed increases with the difference in density of the two phases , Since the compositions of both phases can be varied according to the invention, the layer sequence and the separation rate can also be varied according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as a cream or lotion. Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. of a pump spray advantageous according to the invention, the preparations advantageously also being able to be foamed.
  • W / O emulsifiers to adjust the phase separation speed of homogenized sunscreen preparations and the use of preparations according to the invention as sunscreen after they have been homogenized by shaking are in accordance with the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention are particularly preferably stored and presented in transparent or translucent packaging.
  • the mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization.
  • the W / O emulsion is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the aqueous - or the lipophilic phase is added with stirring.
  • the rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization.
  • the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers. Or alternatively both phases are filled one after the other (layered) into the final containers. With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
  • phase-volume ratios of the W / O emulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.
  • the two-phase system is made according to a method known to the person skilled in the art
  • the phase-volume ratio is determined for this production before the production of the W / O emulsion. That For a 2-phase system consisting of a W / O emulsion and a lipophilic phase which is to be produced using this method, the total oil phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For a 2-phase system consisting of a W / O emulsion and an aqueous phase which is to be produced by this process, the total water phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For the filling of two-phase systems, which have been produced using process 2, a particularly good homogenization before filling or, on the other hand, filling with stirring is suitable. With both filling variants, it must be ensured that a constant phase volume ratio is maintained.
  • the respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-to-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3.
  • the separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-to-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3.
  • the separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations de protection solaire cosmétiques ou dermatologiques à deux phases, qui contiennent a) une émulsion de type huileux, b) une phase lipophile ou aqueuse, c) au moins un émulsifiant de type huileux, ainsi que d) au moins un filtre UV organique ou inorganique. Les préparations selon l'invention sont caractérisées en ce qu'au moins une phase n'est pas transparente ou translucide.
EP03704616A 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type huileux Ceased EP1478325A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10206796 2002-02-19
DE2002106796 DE10206796A1 (de) 2002-02-19 2002-02-19 Zweiphasige Sonnenschutzzubereitungen mit W/O-Emulsion
PCT/EP2003/001479 WO2003070202A1 (fr) 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type huileux

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EP1478325A1 true EP1478325A1 (fr) 2004-11-24

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EP03704616A Ceased EP1478325A1 (fr) 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Preparations de protection solaire a deux phases contenant une emulsion de type huileux

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EP (1) EP1478325A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE10206796A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2003070202A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102004002612A1 (de) * 2004-01-15 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Visualisierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln auf der Haut
DE102004002996A1 (de) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Dünnflüssige W/O Emulsionen
DE102004002999A1 (de) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-11 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen
DE102004003000A1 (de) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen
US20080019929A1 (en) 2004-09-01 2008-01-24 Cyrille Deshayes Micro-Particulate Organic Uv Absorber Composition
DE102005019548A1 (de) * 2005-04-22 2006-10-26 Beiersdorf Ag Dünnflüssige W/O/W-Emulsion
US8486425B1 (en) 2012-08-08 2013-07-16 L'oreal Two-phase sunscreen composition
JP2020105074A (ja) * 2018-12-11 2020-07-09 ロレアル 二相サンケア組成物

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4532A (en) * 1846-05-23 Hot-air furnace
DE4136699A1 (de) * 1991-11-07 1992-10-22 Lancaster Group Ag Verfahren zur herstellung von stabilen, komplexen emulsionssystemen des typs wasser-oel-wasser und deren verwendung als kosmetische praeparate
DE19719297A1 (de) * 1997-05-07 1998-11-12 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung multipler W/O/W-Emulsionen
FR2768337B1 (fr) * 1997-09-16 1999-10-15 Oreal Emulsions triples du type e/h/e contenant un systeme photoprotecteur capable de filtrer les rayons uv; leurs utilisations en cosmetique
FR2778858B1 (fr) * 1998-05-20 2000-06-16 Oreal Emulsion e/h/e stable et son utilisation comme composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique
AU7789800A (en) * 1999-10-22 2001-04-30 Unilever Plc Stable multiple emulsion composition

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Title
None *
See also references of WO03070202A1 *

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WO2003070202A1 (fr) 2003-08-28

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