EP1478325A1 - Biphasic sunscreen preparation comprising a w/o emulsion - Google Patents

Biphasic sunscreen preparation comprising a w/o emulsion

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Publication number
EP1478325A1
EP1478325A1 EP03704616A EP03704616A EP1478325A1 EP 1478325 A1 EP1478325 A1 EP 1478325A1 EP 03704616 A EP03704616 A EP 03704616A EP 03704616 A EP03704616 A EP 03704616A EP 1478325 A1 EP1478325 A1 EP 1478325A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
phase
preparations according
acid
emulsion
advantageous
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03704616A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jens Schulz
Anja Göppel
Simone Budow
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1478325A1 publication Critical patent/EP1478325A1/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations, one phase of which contains a W / O emulsion and the other phase of which contains a lipophilic or aqueous phase, with at least one phase which is not transparent and / or translucent, and the use thereof.
  • UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • UV light protection filters approved for cosmetic applications also include compounds of the basic structure of triazine:
  • UV light protection filters is derived from benzimidazole sulfonic acids:
  • Sun protection preparations are usually offered in the form of emulsions.
  • these homogeneous preparations are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring.
  • the possibilities for making these formulations more visually attractive are limited.
  • consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good” afterwards.
  • two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert to a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then apply to allow mix "before each use, the homogeneous emulsion, however, must in a timely re-segregate. Only then ⁇ can complied with the playfulness of consumers and the joy be guaranteed to the application.
  • allow two-phase products completely new optical design possibilities.
  • the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparations containing a) a W / O emulsion, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one W / O emulsifier, d) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter substance, characterized in that at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent.
  • W / O stands for water-in-oil emulsion or emulsifier.
  • Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase are separately layered on top of each other.
  • the W / O emulsion is regarded as one phase in this consideration, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that W / O emulsions are in themselves formed from two phases homogenized with one another.
  • the W / O emulsion is long-term stable. This means that it will last for an extended period of time. (Months, years) there is no segregation or phase separation.
  • the peculiarity of the present invention is that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another. These two phases or layers can be, for example, through. Briefly emulate the shaking to a homogeneous emulsion, which is not stable in the long term, but rather segregate over a period of minutes, hours or days into a layered W / O emulsion and lipophilic or aqueous phase.
  • the amount of the lipophilic or aqueous phase is 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
  • the sun protection preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain one or more W / O emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • the separation rate of the preparation according to the invention which has been homogenized by shaking can be precisely adjusted.
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) can be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers.
  • the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure: in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number from 1 to 100.
  • silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183.
  • cetyl dimethicone copolyol is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
  • cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
  • the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
  • Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is 'octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside' from Wacker.
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) according to the invention can preferably be selected from the following group:
  • lipophilic components and emulsifiers are advantageous, among others: ' Sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methylglucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral with petrolatum, ozokerite, glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl 3-oleate, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate 2 in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil.
  • cetyldimethicone copolyol, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate are particularly advantageously used as W / O emulsifiers.
  • Embodiments of the invention which are advantageous according to the invention can also contain additional O / W emulsifiers (oil-in-water emulsifiers) as coemulsifiers.
  • the O / W emulsifier (s) are preferably selected from the following group:
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, ethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate) and / or phosphate emulsifiers are used as O / W emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous according to the invention - as coemulsifiers.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ) ,
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in the pigments being treated in a manner known per se with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , Sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O aluminum oxide
  • Al aluminum hydroxide Al
  • Al oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 e.g., sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • SiSO barium sulfate
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron oxide
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus.
  • benzoxazole derivatives such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), CAS No .:
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2,4-bis- [5- 1 (dimethylprop
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the sunscreen preparations advantageous according to the invention contain, as organic filters, asymmetrically substituted triazines, bisimidazylates and / or benzotriazoles.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and serve the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliary substances, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, pent
  • sulfoximine compounds eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocy
  • chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
  • ascorbyl palmitate Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, -Glycosylrutin, Ferulaklare,.
  • zinc and its derivatives eg ZnO, ZnSO
  • selenium and its derivatives e.g. selenium methylene derivatives, e.g. stilbene and its derivatives
  • Trans-stilbene oxide the derivatives suitable according to the invention
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • An aqueous phase present as a second, independent water phase or the water phase of the W / O emulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, in particular, and electrolytes one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageous
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • self-tanning substances such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck)
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • a second lipophilic phase, which is present as an independent oil phase, or the oil phase of the W / O emulsion of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • Ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate,
  • oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -Alkyltartrat , Triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethylisosorbide.
  • oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the Hallbrite BHB trade name from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • the oil phases can also advantageously also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • nonpolar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phases can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated).
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, from Th. Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000.
  • Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone and silicone wax).
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different types of abil wax.
  • silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
  • Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO ⁇ and / or R 3 SiO 0.5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C 1-24 -alkyl (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO 1 ⁇ 5 is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
  • organopolysiloxane is not cyclic
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) is in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the individual phases of the preparation can advantageously be colored differently.
  • Embodiments of the invention in which only one of the two phases is colored are also advantageous according to the invention.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In in most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3.
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
  • It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred.
  • Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which, inter alia, from Bayer AG is available under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.
  • EDDS EDTA
  • [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest
  • pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate which, for. B.
  • Dequest 2046 from Monsanto
  • iminodisuccinic acid which
  • the viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas).
  • the very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
  • the choice of which phase floats on the other can be determined in a simple manner which is obvious to the person skilled in the art.
  • the layer sequence of the individual phases depends on their density. This can be adjusted almost arbitrarily by varying the concentration of individual components of the respective phases.
  • the person skilled in the art is of course aware that the demixing speed of the two phases, after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking, can also be set in a targeted manner by selecting the density of the individual phases, the principle that the demixing speed increases with the difference in density of the two phases , Since the compositions of both phases can be varied according to the invention, the layer sequence and the separation rate can also be varied according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as a cream or lotion. Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. of a pump spray advantageous according to the invention, the preparations advantageously also being able to be foamed.
  • W / O emulsifiers to adjust the phase separation speed of homogenized sunscreen preparations and the use of preparations according to the invention as sunscreen after they have been homogenized by shaking are in accordance with the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention are particularly preferably stored and presented in transparent or translucent packaging.
  • the mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization.
  • the W / O emulsion is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the aqueous - or the lipophilic phase is added with stirring.
  • the rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization.
  • the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers. Or alternatively both phases are filled one after the other (layered) into the final containers. With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
  • phase-volume ratios of the W / O emulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.
  • the two-phase system is made according to a method known to the person skilled in the art
  • the phase-volume ratio is determined for this production before the production of the W / O emulsion. That For a 2-phase system consisting of a W / O emulsion and a lipophilic phase which is to be produced using this method, the total oil phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For a 2-phase system consisting of a W / O emulsion and an aqueous phase which is to be produced by this process, the total water phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For the filling of two-phase systems, which have been produced using process 2, a particularly good homogenization before filling or, on the other hand, filling with stirring is suitable. With both filling variants, it must be ensured that a constant phase volume ratio is maintained.
  • the respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-to-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3.
  • the separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-to-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3.
  • the separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
  • the 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.

Abstract

Biphasic cosmetic and/or dermatological sunscreen preparation comprising a) a W/O emulsion, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one W/O emulsifier and d) at least one organic and/or inorganic UV filter, characterised in that at least one phase is not transparent or translucent.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Zweiphasige Sonnenschutzzubereitungen mit W/O-EmulsionTwo-phase sunscreen preparations with W / O emulsion
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Sonnenschutzzubereitungen, deren eine Phase eine W/O-Emulsion und deren andere Phase eine lipophile oder wassrige Phase enthalten, mit mindestens einer Phase die nicht durchsichtig und/oder durchscheinend ist, sowie deren Verwendung.The present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations, one phase of which contains a W / O emulsion and the other phase of which contains a lipophilic or aqueous phase, with at least one phase which is not transparent and / or translucent, and the use thereof.
Der Trend weg von der vornehmen Blässe hin zur „gesunden, sportlich braunen Haut" ist seit Jahren ungebrochen. Um diese zu erzielen setzen die Menschen ihre Haut der Sonnenstrahlung aus, da diese eine Pigmentbildung im Sinne einer Melaninbildung hervorruft. Die ultraviolette Strahlung des Sonnenlichtes hat jedoch auch eine schädigende Wirkung auf die Haut. Neben der akuten. Schädigung (Sonnenbrand) treten Langzeitschäden wie ein erhöhtes Risiko an Hautkrebs zu erkranken bei übermäßiger Bestrahlung mit Licht aus dem UVB-Bereich (Wellenlänge: 280-320 nm) auf. Die übermäßige Einwirkung der UVB- und UVA-Strahlung (Wellenlänge: 320-400 nm) führt darüber hinaus zu einer Schwächung der elastischen und kollagenen Fasern des Bindegewebes. Dies führt zu zahlreichen phototoxischen und photoallergischen Reaktionen und hat eine vorzeitige Hautalterung zur Folge.The trend away from the paleness towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been going on for years. In order to achieve this, people expose their skin to the sun's radiation, since this causes pigment formation in the sense of melanin formation. The ultraviolet radiation of sunlight has however, it also has a damaging effect on the skin In addition to the acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs with excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm) UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and results in premature skin aging.
Zum Schutz der Haut wurden daher eine Reihe von Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen entwickelt, die in kosmetischen Zubereitungen eingesetzt werden können. Diese UVA- und UVB-Filter sind in den meisten Industrieländern in Form von Positivlisten wie dem Anlage 7 der Kosmetikverordnung zusammengefasst.To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have therefore been developed that can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Regulation.
Um die Wirksamkeit der Lichtschutzfilter für die Haut abschätzen zu können, wurde in den 50er Jahren der Lichtschutzfaktor (LSF oder LF) bzw. Sonnenschutzfaktor (SF, engl. sun protection factor SPF) von Schulze eingeführt. Er definiert sich wie folgt:In order to be able to estimate the effectiveness of the sun protection filters for the skin, Schulze introduced the sun protection factor (SPF or LF) and sun protection factor (SF) in the 1950s. It is defined as follows:
M^ED geschützte HautM ^ ED protected skin
LSF = MED = Er themschwellendosis (engl. minimum er themalLSF = MED = Er themschwellendose (English minimum er themal
MED ungeschützte Haut dose) Zu den für kosmetische Anwendungen zugelassenen UV-Lichtschutzfiltern gehören unter anderem auch Verbindungen Grundgerüst des Triazins:MED unprotected skin can) The UV light protection filters approved for cosmetic applications also include compounds of the basic structure of triazine:
Eine weitere Klasse an UV-Lichtschutzfiltern leitet sich von den Benzimidazolsulfon- säuren ab:Another class of UV light protection filters is derived from benzimidazole sulfonic acids:
Eine dritte Klasse vorteilhafter Lichtschutzfilter baut auf dem Strukturelement des Benzo- triazols auf:A third class of advantageous light protection filters is based on the structural element of benzotriazole:
Sonnenschutzzubereitungen werden in der Regel in Form von Emulsionen angeboten. Diese homogenen Zubereitungen werden jedoch von den Verbrauchern zunehmend als eintönig und langweilig empfunden. Die Möglichkeiten, diese Formulierungen optisch attraktiver zu gestalten sind allerdings begrenzt. In zunehmendem Maße sind die Verbraucher auch der Flut direkt applizierbarer Fertigprodukte überdrüssig und von dem Wunsch beseelt, sich die kosmetischen Formulierungen selbst zuzubereiten um sich anschließend „etwas Gutes" zu tun. Um diesem neuartigen Tatendrang der Verbraucher entgegen zu kommen werden zunehmend zweiphasige kosmetische Zubereitungen angeboten, die der Kunde durch einfaches Schütteln in eine homogene Emulsion überführen und anschließend anwenden kann. Um den Kunden die Freude am „selber mixen" vor jeder Anwendung zu ermöglichen, muss sich die homogene Emulsion allerdings in angemessener Zeit wieder entmischen. Nur so ^kann dem Spieltrieb der Verbraucher entsprochen und die Freude an der Anwendung gewährleistet werden. Nicht zuletzt ermöglichen die zweiphasigen Produkte völlig neuartige, optische Gestaltungsmöglichkeiten.Sun protection preparations are usually offered in the form of emulsions. However, these homogeneous preparations are increasingly perceived by consumers as monotonous and boring. However, the possibilities for making these formulations more visually attractive are limited. Increasingly, consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good" afterwards. In order to meet this new drive of consumers, two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert to a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then apply to allow mix "before each use, the homogeneous emulsion, however, must in a timely re-segregate. Only then ^ can complied with the playfulness of consumers and the joy be guaranteed to the application. Finally, allow two-phase products completely new optical design possibilities.
Leider sind jedoch nach heutigem Stand der Technik nur transparente zweiphasige kosmetische Sonnenschutzzubereitungen auf Basis jeweils einer lipophilen und einer wässrigen Phase zu formulieren. Diese haben jedoch den Nachteil, dass sie sich in der Regel nach einer Homogenisierung durch Schütteln zu schnell wieder entmischen. Außerdem ist es bisher nicht möglich pigmentäre organische und/oder anorganische UV- Filter in diesen Zubereitungen einzusetzen um auf diese Weise hohe Lichtschutzfaktoren zu erreichen. Nicht zuletzt erwecken diese Produkte aufgrund ihres Aussehens nicht die Assoziation von Pflege und UV-Schutz, die in der Regel mit weißfarbigen Zubereitungen von cremiger Konsistenz verbunden werden.Unfortunately, according to the current state of the art, only transparent two-phase cosmetic sunscreen preparations based on a lipophilic and an aqueous phase are to be formulated. However, these have the disadvantage that they usually separate out too quickly after homogenization by shaking. In addition, it has not hitherto been possible to use pigmentary organic and / or inorganic UV filters in these preparations in order to achieve high sun protection factors in this way. Last but not least, due to their appearance, these products do not evoke the association of care and UV protection, which are usually associated with white-colored preparations with a creamy consistency.
Es war daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung die Mängel des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen und zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Sonnenschutzzubereitungen mit hohem UV-Schutz auf Basis zu entwickeln, bei denen mindestens eine Phase nicht transparent ist.It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparations with high UV protection based on which at least one phase is not transparent.
Überraschend wird die Aufgabe gelöst durch zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Sonnenschutzzubereitungen enthaltend a) eine W/O-Emulsion, b) eine lipophile oder wassrige Phase, c) mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator, d) mindestens eine organische und/oder anorganische UV-Filtersubstanz, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine Phase nicht durchsichtig und/oder durchscheinend ist.Surprisingly, the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparations containing a) a W / O emulsion, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one W / O emulsifier, d) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter substance, characterized in that at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent.
W/O steht dabei erfindungsgemäß für Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsion bzw. Emulgator.According to the invention, W / O stands for water-in-oil emulsion or emulsifier.
Zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Sonnenschutzubereitung im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung bedeutet, dass die W/O-Emulsion und die lipophile oder wassrige Phase separat übereinander geschichtet vorliegen. Die W/O-Emulsion wird bei dieser Betrachtung als eine Phase betrachtet, obwohl es dem Fachmann natürlich bekannt ist, dass W/O-Emulsionen an sich aus zwei miteinander homogenisierten Phasen gebildet werden. Die W/O-Emulsion ist langzeitstabil. Dies bedeutet, dass es auch über einen längeren Zeitraum . (Monate, Jahre) nicht zu einer Entmischung beziehungsweise Phasenauftrennung kommt. Die Besonderheit der vorliegenden Erfindung, welche mit dem Begriff zweiphasig zum Ausdruck gebracht werden soll, liegt nun darin, dass die W/O-Emulsion und die als zweite Phase separat vorliegende lipophile oder wassrige Phase entmischt übereinander geschichtet vorliegen. Diese beiden Phasen bzw. Schichten lassen sich zum Beispiel durch . Schütteln kurzfristig zu einer homogenen Emulsion emuigieren, welche aber nicht langzeitstabil ist, sondern sich vielmehr über einen Zeitraum von Minuten, Stunden oder Tagen wieder zu übereinander geschichteter W/O-Emulsion und lipophiler oder wässriger Phase entmischen.Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase are separately layered on top of each other. The W / O emulsion is regarded as one phase in this consideration, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that W / O emulsions are in themselves formed from two phases homogenized with one another. The W / O emulsion is long-term stable. This means that it will last for an extended period of time. (Months, years) there is no segregation or phase separation. The peculiarity of the present invention, which is to be expressed with the term two-phase, is that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another. These two phases or layers can be, for example, through. Briefly emulate the shaking to a homogeneous emulsion, which is not stable in the long term, but rather segregate over a period of minutes, hours or days into a layered W / O emulsion and lipophilic or aqueous phase.
Dabei ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die Menge der lipophilen beziehungsweise wässrigen Phase 5 bis 95 Vol.-%, insbesondere 10 bis 90 Vol.-% bezogen auf das Gesamtvolumen der Formulierung beträgt.It is advantageous according to the invention if the amount of the lipophilic or aqueous phase is 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Sonnenschutzzubereitungen zeichnen sich dadurch aus, dass sie einen oder mehrere W/O-Emulgatoren in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 3 Gewichts- % enthalten.The sun protection preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain one or more W / O emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight.
Mit Hilfe der Emulgatorkonzentration lässt sich die Entmischungsgeschwindigkeit der durch Schütteln homogenisierten erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung genau einstellen.With the aid of the emulsifier concentration, the separation rate of the preparation according to the invention which has been homogenized by shaking can be precisely adjusted.
Erfindungsgemäß können der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe der Silikon- emulgatoren gewählt werden. Vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Alkylmethiconcopolyole und/oder Alkyl-Dimethiconcopolyole, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen, welche gekennzeichnet sind durch die folgende chemische Struktur: bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H (Wasserstoff) sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1 - 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0 - 200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1 - 40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1 - 100 darstellt.According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier (s) can be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers. Advantageously from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure: in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number from 1 to 100.
Ein Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende Silikonemulgatoren sind Dimethiconcopolyole, welche von der Gesellschaft Th.Goldschmidt AG unter den Warenbezeichnungen ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851 , ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 und ABIL® B 88183 verkauft werden.An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183.
Ein weiteres Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen ist das Cetyl Dimethiconcopolyol, welches von der Gesellschaft Th.Goldschmidt AG unter der Warenbezeichnung ABIL® EM 90 verkauft wird.Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
Ein weiteres Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen ist das Cyclomethicon Dimethiconcopolyol, welches von der Gesellschaft Th.Goldschmidt AG unter der Warenbezeichnung ABIL® EM 97 verkauft wird.Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
Weiterhin hat sich als ganz besonders vorteilhaft der Emulgator Laurylmethiconcopolyol herausgestellt, welcher unter der Warenbezeichnung Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid von der Gesellschaft Dow Corning Ltd. erhältlich ist.Furthermore, the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol, which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
Ein weiterer vorteilhafter Silikonemulgator ist ,Octyl Dimethicon Ethoxy Glucosid' der Firma Wacker. Des Weiteren können der oder die W/O-Emulgatoren erfindungsgemäß vorzugsweise aus der folgenden Gruppe gewählt werden:Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is 'octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside' from Wacker. Furthermore, the W / O emulsifier (s) according to the invention can preferably be selected from the following group:
Sorbita stearat, Sorbitanoleat, Lecithin, Glyceryllanolat, Lanolin, Ozokerit, hydriertes Rici- nusöl, Glycerylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Oleat, Wollwachssäuregemische, Wollwachsal- koholgemische, Pentaerythrithylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat,Sorbita stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate
Methylglu'cosedioleat, PEG-7-hydriertes Ricinusöl, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat, Hexyllaurat, Acrylat/ C10.30-Alkylacrylat-Crosspolymer, Sorbitanisostearat, Poloxamer 101, Polyglyce- ryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy- stearat, Diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearat, Po- lyglyceryl-3-dioleat.Methylglu 'cosedioleat, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C 10 degrees. 30- alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy-stearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-polyglyceryl-glyceryl-3-polyglyceryl-glyceryl-3-polyglyceryl-glyceryl-3-polyglyceryl-3-diol dioleate.
Dabei sind unter anderem die folgenden Kombinationen aus lipophilen Bestandteilen und Emulgatoren vorteilhaft: ' Sorbitan Oleat im Gemisch mit hydriertem Ricinusöl, Bienenwachs (Cera alba) und Stearinsäure, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat im Gemisch mit Isopropylhydroxycetyl- ether, Methylglucosedioleat im Gemisch mit Hydroxystearat und Bienenwachs, Mineralöl im Gemisch mit Petrolatum, Ozokerit, Glyceryloleat und Lanolinalkohol, Petrolatum im Gemisch mit Ozokerit, hydriertem Ricinusöl, Glycerylisostearat und Polyglyceryl-3-oleat, Sorbitanoleat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl, Sorbitanisostearat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl.The following combinations of lipophilic components and emulsifiers are advantageous, among others: ' Sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methylglucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral with petrolatum, ozokerite, glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl 3-oleate, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate 2 in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil.
Dabei werden erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft als W/O-Emulgatoren Cetyldimethicon-Copolyol, Glycerylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat und/oder PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearat eingesetzt.According to the invention, cetyldimethicone copolyol, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate are particularly advantageously used as W / O emulsifiers.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Ausführungsformen der Erfindung können darüber hinaus zusätzliche O/W-Emulgatoren (ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren) als Coemulgatoren enthalten. Der oder die O/W-Emulgatoren werden erfindungsgemäß vorzugsweise aus der folgen- den Gruppe gewählt:Embodiments of the invention which are advantageous according to the invention can also contain additional O / W emulsifiers (oil-in-water emulsifiers) as coemulsifiers. According to the invention, the O / W emulsifier (s) are preferably selected from the following group:
Ceteareth-20, Trilaureth-4 Phosphat, Cetyl Phosphat, Cetearyl Sulfat, PEG-40-Stearat, PEG-100-Stearat, Polysorbate-60 und/oder Polysorbate-65. Als erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhafte O/W-Emulgatoren - als Coemulgatoren - werden Glycerylstearatcitrat, Cetearyl Sulfat, ethoxylierte Fettsäuren (PEG-40 Stearat, PEG-100 Stearat) und/oder Phosphatemulgatoren (z.B. Cetyl Phosphat) eingesetzt.Ceteareth-20, trilaureth-4 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Polysorbate-60 and / or Polysorbate-65. Glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, ethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate) and / or phosphate emulsifiers (for example cetyl phosphate) are used as O / W emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous according to the invention - as coemulsifiers.
Es ist auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an weiteren UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z. B. in Tagespflegeprodukten oder Make-up-Produkten gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet. Auch stellen UV-Schutzsubstanzen, ebenso wie Antioxidantien und, gewünschtenfalls, Konservierungsstoffe, einen wirksamen Schutz der Zubereitungen selbst gegen Verderb dar.It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day care products or make-up products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
Dementsprechend enthalten die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorzugsweise mindestens eine UV-A-, UV-B- und/oder Breitbandfiltersubstanz und/oder mind. ein UV-Licht reflektierendes und/oder absorbierendes anorganisches Pigment. Die Formulierungen können, obgleich nicht notwendig, gegebenenfalls auch ein oder mehrere organische und/oder anorganische Pigmente als UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten, welche in der Wasser- und/oder der Ölphase vorliegen können.Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
Erfindungsgemäß sind alle Ausführungsformen, bei denen sich die UV-Schutzsubstanzen ausschließlich in einer der beiden Phasen oder in beiden Phasen der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen befinden.According to the invention are all embodiments in which the UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft auch in Form von soge- nannten ölfreien kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen vorliegen, welche eine Wasserphase und mindestens eine bei Raumtemperatur flüssige UV-Filtersubstanz als weitere Phase enthalten.The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.
Besonders vorteilhafte bei Raumtemperatur flüssige UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Homomenthylsalicylat (INCI: Homosalate), 2-Ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-dipheny!acrylat (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoat (2-Ethyl- hexylsalicylat, Octylsalicylat, INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) und Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester (2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamat, INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) und 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester (lsopentyl-4- methoxycinnamat, INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate) und polymere UV-Filter wie das (3-(4-(2,2-bis-Ethoxycarbonylviny!)-phenoxy) propenyl)- methylsiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan Copolymer, welches beispielsweise bei Hoffmann-La Röche unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol SLX erhältlich ist.Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-dipheny! Acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate ( 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, octylsalicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxyentyl acetate (4-methoxyentyl acetate) - methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters such as the (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylviny!) - phenoxy) propenyl) - methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Röche is available under the trade name Parsol SLX.
Bevorzugte anorganische Pigmente sind Metalloxide und/oder andere in Wasser schwerlösliche oder unlösliche Metallverbindungen, insbesondere Oxide des Titans (TiO ), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siiiciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z. B. Ce2O3), Mischoxide der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden sowie das Sulfat des Bariums (BaSO4).Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ) ,
Die Pigmente können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfsmittel und/oder Solubilisations- Vermittler zugesetzt sein.For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
Die Pigmente können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft oberflächlich behandelt („gecoatet") sein, wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung, kann darin beste- hen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht versehen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten.According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in the pigments being treated in a manner known per se with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
Anorganische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus Aluminiumoxid (AI2O ), Aluminiumhydroxid AI(OH)3, bzw. Aluminiumoxidhydrat (auch: Alumina, CAS-Nr.: 1333-84-2), Natriumhexametaphosphat (NaPO3)6, Natriummetaphosphat (NaPO3)n, Siliciumdioxid (SiO2) (auch: Silica, CAS-Nr.: 7631-86-9), Bariumsulfat (BaSO ) oder Eisenoxid (Fe2O3). Diese anorganischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit organischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen.Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , Sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
Organische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus pflanzlichem oder tierischem Aluminiumstearat, pflanzlicher oder tierischer Stearinsäure, Laurinsäure, Dimethylpolysiloxan (auch: Dimethicone), Methylpolysiloxan (Methicone), Simethicone (einem Gemisch aus Dimethylpolysiloxan mit einer durchschnittlichen Kettenlänge von 200 bis 350 Dimethylsiloxan-Einheiten und Silicagel) oder Alginsäure. Diese organischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit anorganischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen. Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Zinkoxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Zinkoxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
Geeignete Titandioxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Titandioxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoyl- methanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird.Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
Vorteilhafte weitere UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind sulfo- nierte, wasserlösliche UV-Filter, wie z. B.:Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
• Phenyien-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natri- umsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;Phenyien-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP;
• Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol~5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri- ethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phe- nylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole ~ 5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyI)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethy- lene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4- di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtali- dene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalic Dicampher Sulfonic Acid ( CAS.-No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bomyliden- methyl)benzoIsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze. • Hydroxybenzophenon-Derivate, wie z.B. 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)- benzoic acid hexylester, welches beispielsweise von der Firma BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul® A Plus erhältlich ist.• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzoisulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof. Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus.
• Benzoxazol-Derivate, wie z.B. das 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzossazol-2-yl-(4- phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin (CAS-Nr.: 288254-16-0), welches beispielsweise von der Firma 3V Sigma erhältlich ist.• benzoxazole derivatives, such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma.
Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner sogenannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter oder UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind beispielsweise Triazinderi- vate, wie z. B. • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyi-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH, erhältlich ist;Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• 4,4,,4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2,-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.4,4, 4 "- (1, 3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2 , -ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
Ein vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist auch das 2,2'-Me- thylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 , 1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), CAS-Nr.:An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), CAS No .:
103597-45-1 , welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA- Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.103597-45-1, which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner das 2-(2H-ben- zotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxa- nyl]propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Drometrizole Trisi- loxane, welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Mexoryl® XL bei der Fa. Chimex erhältlich ist.Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,
Die weiteren UV-Filtersubstanzen können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein.The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
Vorteilhafte öllösliche UV-B- und/oder Breitband-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorlie- genden Erfindung sind z. B.:Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:
3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter. ■ 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/DimethyIsiloxan - Copolymer welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Röche erhältlich ist. as well as UV filters bound to polymers. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethyisiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Röche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.
Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die sich durch einen hohen bzw. sehr hohen UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Schutz auszeichnen, enthalten neben der oder den erfindungsgemäßen Filtersubstanz(en) bevorzugt ferner weitere UV-A- und/oder Breitbandfilter, insbesondere Dibenzoylmethanderivate [beispielsweise das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan], Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2- benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und/oder ihre Salze, das 2-(4-Diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester und/oder das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2- hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin und/oder das 2,4-bis-[5- 1(dimethylpropyl)benzossazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander.Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2,4-bis- [5- 1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazines, each individually or in any combination with one another.
Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
Die erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaften UV-Lichtschutzfilter werden bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 30 Gewichts-%, insbesondere in einer Konzentration von 0,5 bis 15 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, eingesetzt.The UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Die erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaften Sonnenschutzzubereitungen enthalten als organische Filter unsymmetrisch substituierte Triazine, Bisimidazylate und/oder Benzotriazole.The sunscreen preparations advantageous according to the invention contain, as organic filters, asymmetrically substituted triazines, bisimidazylates and / or benzotriazoles.
Erfindungsgemäß können die kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutzformulierungen wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und dem kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen.According to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and serve the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
Zur Anwendung werden die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen erfindungsgemäß in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht. Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können kosmetische Hiifsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Komplexbildner, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern oder Steigern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Füllstoffe, die das Hautgefühl verbessern, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics. The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliary substances, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Uroca- ninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthio- dipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthionin- sulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathio- ninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), -Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferyl- benzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, -Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, . Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO ) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta- ion sulfones, penta- xa-, heptathionesulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) , Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, -Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure,. Furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methylene derivatives, e.g. stilbene and its derivatives) , Trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 7 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. to choose.
Darüber hinaus eignen sich ausgewählte erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavonglycoside (insbesondere σ-Glycosylrutin), Coen- zym Q10, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate und dergleichen enthalten, insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung (z.B. Falten und Fältchen) auftreten. Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.In addition, selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially σ-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
Sofern σ-Glycosylrutin das Antioxidants darstellt, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen. Eine als zweite, eigenständige Wasserphase vorliegende wassrige Phase bzw. die Wasserphase der W/O-Emulsion der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen kann vorteilhaft übliche kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie beispielsweise Alkohole, insbesondere solche niedriger C-Zahl, vorzugsweise Ethanol und/oder Isopropanol, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Butylenglykol, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethy- lenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z. B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole [von der Fa. Bf. Goodrich], beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.If σ-glycosylrutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. An aqueous phase present as a second, independent water phase or the water phase of the W / O emulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, in particular, and electrolytes one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft auch Selbstbräunungssubstanzen enthalten, wie beispielsweise Dihydroxyacteon und/oder Melaninderivate in Konzentrationen von 1 Gew.-% bis zu 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Ferner vorteilhaft können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen auch Repellentien zum Schutz vor Mücken, Zecken und Spinnen und dergleichen enthalten. Vorteilhaft sind z. B. N,N-Diethyl-3-methylbenzamid (Handelsbezeichnung: Meta-delphene, „DEET"), Di- methylphtalat (Handelsbezeichnung: Palatinol M, DMP) sowie insbesondere 3-(N-n-Butyl- N-acetyl-amino)-propionsäureethylester (unter dem Handelsnamen Insekt Repellent® 3535 bei der Fa. Merck erhältlich). Die Repellentien können sowohl einzeln als auch in Kombination eingesetzt werden.The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Are advantageous for. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck) The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
Als Moisturizer werden Stoffe oder Stoffgemische bezeichnet, welche kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen die Eigenschaft verleihen, nach dem Auftragen bzw. Verteilen auf der Hautoberfläche die Feuchtigkeitsabgabe der Hornschicht (auch trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) genannt) zu reduzieren und/oder die Hydratation der Hornschicht positiv zu beeinflussen. Vorteilhafte Moisturizer im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glyce- rin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlactat, Butylenglykol, Propylen- glykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moisturizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen und/oder in Wasser quellbaren und/oder mit Hilfe von Wasser gelierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Hyaluronsäure, Chitosan und/oder ein fucosereiches Polysaccharid, welches in den Chemical Abstracts unter der Registraturnummer 178463-23-5 abgelegt und z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Fucogel®1000 von der Gesellschaft SOLABIA S.A. erhältlich ist. Moisturizer können vorteilhaft auch als Antifaltenwirkstoffe zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten, verwendet werden.Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively. Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, Füllstoffe enthalten, welche z. B. die sensorischen und kosmetischen Eigenschaften der Formulierungen weiter verbessern und beispielsweise ein samtiges oder seidiges Hautgefühl hervorrufen oder verstärken. Vorteilhafte Füllstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Stärke und Stärkederivate (wie z. B. Tapiocastärke, Distärkephosphat, Aluminium- bzw. Natrium-Stärke Octenylsuccinat und dergleichen), Pigmente, die weder hauptsächlich UV-Filter- noch färbende Wirkung haben (wie z. B. Bornitrid etc.) und/oder Aerosile® (CAS-Nr. 7631-86-9).The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
Eine zweite, als eigenständige Ölphase vorliegende lipophile Phase oder die Ölphase der W/Ö-Emulsion der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der polaren Öle, beispielsweise aus der Gruppe der Lecithine und der Fettsäure- triglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, wie z. B. Cocoglycerid, Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl, Weizenkeimöl, Traubenkemöl, Distelöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Ma- cadamianußöl und dergleichen mehr. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ferner z. B. natürliche Wachse tierischen und pflanzlichen Ursprungs, wie beispielsweise Bienenwachs und andere Insektenwachse sowie Beerenwachs, Sheabutter und/oder Lanolin .(Wollwachs).A second lipophilic phase, which is present as an independent oil phase, or the oil phase of the W / O emulsion of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
Weitere vorteilhafte polare Ölkomponenten können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ferner gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen sowie aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. SolcheFor the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such
Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Octylpalmitat, Octylco- coat, Octylisostearat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyldodekanol, Cetearylisononanoat,Ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate,
Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n- Hexyllaurat, ri-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethyl- hexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearyl- heptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecyistearat, Tridecyltri- mellitat, sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie z. B. Jojobaöl.Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, ri-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl hexylateyl, ethyl stylate, 2-ethyl hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl hexyl laurate Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecyistearat, Tridecyltrimellitat, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.
Ferner können die Ölphasen vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Dialkylether und Dialkylcarbonate, vorteilhaft sind z. B. Dicaprylylether (Cetiol OE) und/oder Di- caprylylcarbonat, beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Cetiol CC bei der Fa. Cognis erhältliche.Furthermore, the oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.
Es ist ferner bevorzugt, das oder die Ölkomponenten aus der Gruppe Isoeikosan, Neo- pentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat/dicaprat, Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl- succinat, Butylenglykol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, C12-13-Alkyllactat, Di-C12-13-Alkyltartrat, Triiso- stearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylat/Hexacaprat, Propylenglykolmonoisostearat, Tri- caprylin, Dimethylisosorbid. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen einen Gehalt an C12-15-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht. Vorteilhafte Ölkomponenten sind ferner z. B. Butyloctylsalicylat (beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hallbrite BHB bei der Fa. CP Hall erhältliche), Hexadecylben- zoat und Butyloctylbenzoat und Gemische davon (Hallstar AB) und/oder Diethylhexyl- naphthalat (Hallbrite TQ oder Corapan TQ von H&R).It is further preferred pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -Alkyltartrat , Triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tri-caprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this. Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the Hallbrite BHB trade name from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Ferner können die Ölphasen ebenfalls vorteilhaft auch unpolare Öle enthalten, beispiels- weise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Mineralöl, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene und Isohexa- decan. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.Furthermore, the oil phases can also advantageously also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
Vorteilhaft können die Ölphasen ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikpnöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Öl- phasenkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phases can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Silikonöle sind hochmolekulare synthetische polymere Verbindungen, in denen Silicium- Atome über Sauerstoff-Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Pro- pyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind. Systematisch werden die Silikonöle als Po- lyorganosiloxane bezeichnet. Die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnenSilicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated). The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten. Besonders vorteilhafte Polyorganosiloxane im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxane [Poly(dimethylsiloxan)], welche beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Abil 10 bis 10000 bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Ferner vorteilhaft sind Phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Tri- methicone), cyclische Silikone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan bzw. Decamethylcyclopenta- siloxan), welche nach INCI auch als Cyclomethicone bezeichnet werden, aminomodifi- zierte Silikone (INCI: Amodimethicone) und Silikonwachse, z. B. Polysiloxan-Polyalkylen- Copolymere (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone und Cetyl Dimethicone) und Dialkoxydimethyl- polysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone und Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), welche als ver- schiedene Abil-Wax-Typen bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Cetyldimethicon, Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsilo~ xan). are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, from Th. Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone and silicone wax). B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different types of abil wax. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft eine oder mehrere Substanzen aus der folgenden Gruppe der Siloxanelastomere enthalten, beispielsweise um die Wasserfestigkeit und/oder den Lichtschutzfaktor der Produkte zu steigern:The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
(a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R2SiO und RSiO^ und/oder R3SiO0,5 und/oder SiO2 enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1-24-Al- kyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R2SiO zu RSiO1ι5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;(a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO ^ and / or R 3 SiO 0.5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C 1-24 -alkyl (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO 1ι5 is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
(b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)(b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
• im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und• is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
• im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist. Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung liegen das oder die Siloxanelastomere in Form sphärischer Puder oder in Form von Gelen vor.• is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic. For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte in Form sphärischer Puder vorliegende Siloxanelastomere sind die mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, beispielsweise das von DOW CORNING unter der Handelsbezeichnungen DOW CORNING 9506 Powder erhältliche.Advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
Besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Kombination mit Ölen aus Kohlenwasserstoffen tierischer und/oder pflanzlicher Herkunft, synthetischen Ölen, synthetischen Estern, synthetischen Ethern oder deren Gemischen verwendet wird.It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Kombination mit unverzweigten bei Raumtemperatur flüssigen oder pastösen Silikonölen oder cyclischen Sili- konölen oder deren Gemischen verwendet wird. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind Organo- polysiloxanelastomere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 , ganz besonders die von der Grant Industries Inc. erhältlichen Gransil-Typen GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 Gel und/oder DMCM-5.It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof. Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
Ganz außergewöhnlich bevorzugt ist es, wenn das Siloxanelastomer in Form eines Gels aus Siloxanelastomer und einer Lipidphase verwendet wird, wobei der Gehalt des Silo- xanelastomers in dem Gel 1 bis 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 60 Gew.-% beträgt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Gels.It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
Es ist vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die Gesamtmenge der Siloxanelastomere (Aktivgehalt) aus dem Bereich von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorteilhaft von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) to be in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können Farbstoffe und/oder Farbpigmente enthalten, insbesondere wenn sie in Form von dekorativen Kosmetika vorliegen. Dabei können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft die einzelnen Phasen der Zubereitung unterschiedlich gefärbt sein. Auch Ausführungsformen der Erfindung, bei denen lediglich eine der beiden Phasen gefärbt ist, sind erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft. Die Farbstoffe und -pigmente können aus der entsprechenden Positivliste der Kosmetikverordnung bzw. der EG-Liste kosmetischer Färbemittel ausgewählt werden. In den meisten Fällen sind sie mit den für Lebensmittel zugelassenen Farbstoffen identisch. Vorteilhafte Farbpigmente sind beispielsweise Titandioxid, Glimmer, Eisenoxide (z. B. Fe2O3, Fe3O , FeO(OH)) und/oder Zinnoxid. Vorteilhafte Farbstoffe sind beispielsweise Carmin, Berliner Blau, Chromoxidgrün, Ultramarinblau und/oder Manganviolett. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, die Farbstoffe und/oder Farbpigmente aus dem Rowe Colour Index, 3. Auflage, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971 zu wählen.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. According to the invention, the individual phases of the preparation can advantageously be colored differently. Embodiments of the invention in which only one of the two phases is colored are also advantageous according to the invention. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In in most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
. Sofern die erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen in Form von Produkten vorliegen, welche im Gesicht angewendet werden, ist es günstig, als Farbstoff eine oder mehrere Substan- zen aus der folgenden Gruppe zu wählen: 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzol, 1-(2'-Chlor-4'-nitro-T- phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin, Ceresrot, 2-(Sulfo-1 -naphthylazo)-1 -naphthol-4-sulfo- säure, Calciumsalz der 2-Hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalin-1'-sulfosäure, Calcium- und Bariumsalze der 1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarbonsäure, Calciumsalz der 1-(2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalin-3-carbonsäure, Aluminiumsalz der 1-(4- Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthyl- azo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfosäure, 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der 4-(4-Sulfo-1 -phenylazo)-1 -(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3-car- bonsäure, Aluminium- und Zirkoniumsalze von 4,5-Dibromfluorescein, Aluminium- und Zirkoniumsalze von 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein, S'^'.δ'.θ'-Tetrachlor^^.S^-tetrabrom- fluorescein und sein Aluminiumsalz, Aluminiumsalz von 2,4,5,7-Tetraiodfluorescein, Aluminiumsalz der Chinophthalon-disulfosäure, Aluminiumsalz der Indigo-disulfosäure, rotes und schwarzes Eisenoxid (CIN: 77491 (rot) und 77499 (schwarz)), Eisenoxidhydrat (CIN: 77492), Manganammoniumdiphosphat und Titandioxid., If there are formulations of the invention in the form of products which are applied on the face, it is favorable as a dye, one or more substandard zen to select from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro- 4'-nitro-T-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1 '-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid , Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthyl-azo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1 - (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3 -carbonic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluor orescein, S '^'. δ'.θ'-tetrachlor ^^. S ^ -tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid , red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77491 (red) and 77499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.
Ferner vorteilhaft sind öllösliche Naturfarbstoffe, wie z. B. Paprikaextrakte, ß-Carotin oder Cochenille.Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner Formulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Perlglanzpigmenten. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere die im folgenden aufgeli- steten Arten von Perlglanzpigmenten:Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
■ „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und■ "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
■ „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)■ "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCI) 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer / Metalloxid2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
Basis für Perlglanzpigmente sind beispielsweise pulverförmige Pigmente oder Ricinusöl- dispersionen von Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid sowie Bismutoxychlorid und/oder Titandioxid auf Glimmer. Insbesondere vorteihaft ist z. B. das unter der CIN 77163 aufgelistete Glanzpigment.Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner beispielsweise die folgenden Perlglanzpigmentarten auf Basis von Glimmer/Metalloxid:The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
Besonders bevorzugt sind z. B. die von der Firma Merck unter den Handelsnamen Timi- ron, Colorona oder Dichrona erhältlichen Perlglanzpigmente.Z are particularly preferred. B. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
Die Liste der genannten Perlglanzpigmente soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein. Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorteilhafte Perlglanzpigmente sind auf zahlreichen, an sich bekannten Wegen erhältlich. Beispielsweise lassen sich auch andere Substrate außer Glimmer mit weiteren Metalloxiden beschichten, wie z. B. Silica und dergleichen mehr. Vorteilhaft sind z. B. mit TiO2 und Fe2O3 beschichtete SiO2-Partikel („Ronasphe- ren"), die von der Firma Merck vertrieben werden und sich besonders für die optische Reduktion feiner Fältchen eignen. Es kann darüber hinaus von Vorteil sein, gänzlich auf ein Substrat wie Glimmer zu verzichten. Besonders bevorzugt sind Eisenperlglanzpigmente, welche ohne die Verwendung von Glimmer hergestellt werden. Solche Pigmente sind z. B. unter dem Handels- namen Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 bei der Firma BASF erhältlich.The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles. It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica. Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner auch Effektpigmente, welche unter der Handelsbezeichnung Metasomes Standard / Glitter in verschiedenen Farben (yello, red, green, blue) von der Firma Flora Tech erhältlich sind. Die Glitterpartikel liegen hierbei in Gemischen mit verschiedenen Hilfs- und Farbstoffen (wie beispielsweise den Farbstoffen mit den Colour Index (Cl) Nummern 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491) vor.Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue). The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
Die Farbstoffe und Pigmente können sowohl einzeln als auch in Kombination vorliegen sowie gegenseitig miteinander beschichtet sein, wobei durch unterschiedliche Beschich- tungsdicken im allgemeinen verschiedene Farbeffekte hervorgerufen werden. Die Gesamtmenge der Farbstoffe und farbgebenden Pigmente wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1,0 bis 10 Gew.-% gewählt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
Vorteilhafte Konservierungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Formaldehydabspalter (wie z. B. DMDM Hydantoin, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Glydant ™ von der Fa. Lonza erhältlich ist), lodopropylbutyl- carbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxy- benzoesäurealkylester, wie Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxy- ethanol, Ethanol, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr. Üblicherweise umfaßt das Konservierungssystem erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft auch Konservierungshelfer, wie beispielsweise Octoxyglycerin, Glycine Soja etc.Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
Vorteilhafte Komplexbildner im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise EDTA, [S,S]-Ethylendiamindisuccinat (EDDS), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Octaquest von der Fa. Octel erhältlich ist, Pentanatrium-Ethylendiamin- tetramethylenphosphonat, welches z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Dequest 2046 von der Fa. Monsanto erhältlich ist und/oder Iminodibersteinsäure, welche u. a. von der Fa. Bayer AG unter den Handelsnamen Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (ca. 30% ige Lösung) und Bay- pure CX 100 fest erhältlich ist.Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which, inter alia, from Bayer AG is available under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist ferner die Aufbewahrung der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung in klaren und/oder durchscheinenden Verpackungsbehältnissen.It is also advantageous according to the invention to store the preparation according to the invention in clear and / or translucent packaging containers.
Die Viskositäten der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen liegen vorteilhaft zwischen wässrig dünn (0-700 mPas) bis hin zu einer fließfähigen Konsistenz (700-4000 mPas). Die sehr dünnflüssigen Zubereitungen könnten in Behältnissen mit Pumpsystemen als Spray oder als Fluid eingesetzt werden.The viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas). The very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
Bei der zweiphasigen erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung läßt sich die Wahl, welche Phase auf der jeweils anderen schwimmt, durch einfache, dem Fachmanne naheliegene Weise festlegen. Denn wie allgemein bekannt, ist die Schichtfolge der einzelnen Phasen von deren Dichte abhängig. Diese läßt sich durch Variation der Konzentration einzelner Bestandteile der jeweiligen Phasen nahezu beliebig einstellen. Ferner ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, dass auch die Entmischungsgeschwindigkeit der beiden Phasen, nachdem die Zubereitung durch schütteln homogenisiert wurde, über die Wahl der Dichte der einzelnen Phasen gezielt einstellen läßt, wobei der Grundsatz gilt, dass die Entmischungsgeschwindigkeit mit dem Dichteunterschied der beiden Phasen ansteigt. Da sich die Zusammensetzungen beider Phasen erfindungsgemäß variieren läßt, sind auch die Schichtenfolge und die Entmischungsgeschwindigkeit erfindungsgemäß variierbar.In the two-phase preparation according to the invention, the choice of which phase floats on the other can be determined in a simple manner which is obvious to the person skilled in the art. As is generally known, the layer sequence of the individual phases depends on their density. This can be adjusted almost arbitrarily by varying the concentration of individual components of the respective phases. Furthermore, the person skilled in the art is of course aware that the demixing speed of the two phases, after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking, can also be set in a targeted manner by selecting the density of the individual phases, the principle that the demixing speed increases with the difference in density of the two phases , Since the compositions of both phases can be varied according to the invention, the layer sequence and the separation rate can also be varied according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft als Creme oder Lotion eingesetzt werden. Auch ist ihr Einsatz in Form eines Sprays, z.B. eines Pumpsprays erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wobei die Zubereitungen vorteilhafterweise auch aufgeschäumt werden können.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as a cream or lotion. Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. of a pump spray advantageous according to the invention, the preparations advantageously also being able to be foamed.
Außerdem ist erfindungsgemäß die Verwendung von W/O-Emulgatoren zur Einstellung der Phasenauftrenngeschwindigkeit von homogenisierten Sonnenschutzzubereitungen sowie die Verwendung von erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen als Sonnenschutzmittel, nachdem sie durch Schütteln homogenisiert wurden. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen werden erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt in transparenten oder transluzenten Verpackungen aufbewahrt und dargereicht.In addition, the use of W / O emulsifiers to adjust the phase separation speed of homogenized sunscreen preparations and the use of preparations according to the invention as sunscreen after they have been homogenized by shaking are in accordance with the invention. The preparations according to the invention are particularly preferably stored and presented in transparent or translucent packaging.
Für die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen eignen sich prinzipiell 2 Verfahren für deren Herstellung.In principle, two processes are suitable for the preparations according to the invention for their preparation.
Verfahren 1:Procedure 1:
1. Schritt:Step 1:
Herstellung einer W/O-Emulsion nach einem für den Fachmann gängigen Verfahren. 2. Schritt:Production of a W / O emulsion by a process common to the person skilled in the art. 2nd step:
Herstellung einer wässrigen oder lipophilen Phase über gegebenenfalls eine Erwärmung auf bis zu 90°C um schwerer lösliche Substenzen zu lösen.Production of an aqueous or lipophilic phase by, if necessary, heating to up to 90 ° C. in order to dissolve less soluble substances.
3. Schritt:3rd step:
Vermischung der unter Schritt 1 hergestellten W/O-Emulsion mit der unter Schritt 2 hergestellten wässrigen oder lipophilen Phase. Die Vermischung kann über einfaches Rühren bis hin zu einer starken Homogenisation erfolgen. Dazu wird die W/O-Emulsion in einem ausreichend großen Behältnis vorgelegt und dann die wassrige - oder die lipophile Phase unter Rühren dazugegeben. Durch die Stärke des Rührens oder auch Homogenisierens kann die Entmischungsgeschwindigkeit beeinflusst werden. Durch einen hohen Energieeintrag wird, im Gegensatz zu einem niedrigen Energieeintrag (einfaches Rühren) die vollständige Entmischung der beiden Phasen verlangsamt. Es empfiehlt sich vor der Abfüllung in die finalen Behältnisse eine ausreichend gute Homogenisierung sicher zu stellen. Oder aber es werden beide Phasen nacheinander (geschichtet) in die finalen Behältnisse gefüllt. Mit dieser Art des Abfüllens, können i.d.R. die Volumina der einzelnen Phasen noch genauer eingestellt werden.Mixing of the W / O emulsion produced in step 1 with the aqueous or lipophilic phase prepared in step 2. The mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization. For this purpose, the W / O emulsion is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the aqueous - or the lipophilic phase is added with stirring. The rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization. In contrast to a low energy input (simple stirring), the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers. Or alternatively both phases are filled one after the other (layered) into the final containers. With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
Bei diesem Verfahren können für das 2-phasige Produkt die Phasen-Volumen- Verhältnisse der W/O-Emulsion zu der wässrigen oder lipophilen Phase in einem Verhältnis von 1:3 bis 3:1 eingestellt werden.In this process, the phase-volume ratios of the W / O emulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.
Verfahren 2:Procedure 2:
In diesem Verfahren wird das 2-phasige System nach einem dem Fachmann bekanntenIn this method, the two-phase system is made according to a method known to the person skilled in the art
Verfahren zur Herstellung einer W/O-Emulsion hergestellt. Nach der Herstellung beginnt sich innerhalb von 1 sec. bis hin zu 1 Stunde die wassrige oder lipophile Phase abzuscheiden.Process for producing a W / O emulsion. After manufacturing begins the aqueous or lipophilic phase separates within 1 second to 1 hour.
Für diese Herstellung wird, im Gegensatz zum Verfahren 1 , vor der Herstellung der W/O- Emulsion das Phasen-Volumenverhältnis festgelegt. D.h. für ein 2-phasiges System bestehend aus einer W/O-Emulsion und einer lipophilen Phase welches über dieses Verfahren hergestellt werden soll, kann die gesamt Ölphasen - Konzentration zwischen 10 und 95 Gew.%, insbesondere zwischen 15 und 90 Gew. % liegen. Für ei 2-phasiges System bestehend aus einer W/O-Emulsion und einer wässrigen Phase welches über dieses Verfahren hergestellt werden soll, kann die gesamt Wasserphasen - Konzentration zwischen 10 und 95 Gew.%, insbesondere zwischen 15 und 90 Gew. % liegen. Zur Abfüllung von 2-phasigen Systemen, die über das Verfahren 2 hergestellt worden sind eignet sich zum Einen eine besonderes gute Homogenisation vor der Abfüllung oder, zum Anderen, eine Abfüllung unter Rühren. Bei beide Abfüllvarianten muss gewährleistet sein, dass ein konstantes Phasenvolumenverhältnis eingehalten wird.In contrast to method 1, the phase-volume ratio is determined for this production before the production of the W / O emulsion. That For a 2-phase system consisting of a W / O emulsion and a lipophilic phase which is to be produced using this method, the total oil phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For a 2-phase system consisting of a W / O emulsion and an aqueous phase which is to be produced by this process, the total water phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For the filling of two-phase systems, which have been produced using process 2, a particularly good homogenization before filling or, on the other hand, filling with stirring is suitable. With both filling variants, it must be ensured that a constant phase volume ratio is maintained.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
Beispiele:Examples:
1. Nach Verfahren 1 hergestellte 2-phasige Systeme mit einer W/O-Emulsion und einer lipophilen Phase.1. 2-phase systems produced by method 1 with a W / O emulsion and a lipophilic phase.
Die jeweiligen Phasen (a) und (b) können in Phasen-Volumen-Verhältnissen von 3:1 bis 1:3 mit einander vermischt werden. Die Trenngeschwindigkeit, bis zur klaren Trennung der Phasen, liegt zwischen 1 Minute und 1 Stunde.The respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-to-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3. The separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
Die so hergestellten 2-Phasen Systeme können als sehr dünnflüssige Sprays oder auch als dünnflüssige/gut fließfähige Lotionen/Fluids verwendet werden.The 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
2. Nach Verfahren 1 hergestellte 2-phasige Systeme mit einer W/O-Emulsion und einer wässrigen Phase.2. 2-phase systems produced by process 1 with a W / O emulsion and an aqueous phase.
Die jeweiligen Phasen (a) und (b) können in Phasen-Volumen-Verhältnissen von 3:1 bis 1:3 mit einander vermischt werden. Die Trenngeschwindigkeit, bis zur klaren Trennung der Phasen, liegt zwischen 1 Minute und 1 Stunde.The respective phases (a) and (b) can be mixed with one another in phase-to-volume ratios of 3: 1 to 1: 3. The separation speed until the phases are clearly separated is between 1 minute and 1 hour.
Die so hergestellten 2-Phasen Systeme können als sehr dünnflüssige Sprays oder auch als dünnflüssige/gut fließfähige Lotionen/Fluids verwendet werden.The 2-phase systems produced in this way can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
3. Nach Verfahren 2 hergestellte 2-phasige Systeme mit einer W/O-Emulsion und einer wässrigen Phase.3. 2-phase systems produced by method 2 with a W / O emulsion and an aqueous phase.
Die so - über Verfahren 2 - hergestellten 2-Phasen Systeme können als sehr dünnflüssige Sprays oder auch als dünnflüssige/gut fließfähige Lotionen/Fluids verwendet werden.The 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.
4. Nach Verfahren 2 hergestellte 2-phasige Systeme mit einer W/O-Emulsion und einer lipophilen Phase.4. 2-phase systems produced by method 2 with a W / O emulsion and a lipophilic phase.
Die so - über Verfahren 2 - hergestellten 2-Phasen Systeme können als sehr dünnflüssige Sprays oder auch als dünnflüssige/gut fließfähige Lotionen/Fluids verwendet werden. The 2-phase systems produced in this way - using method 2 - can be used as very low-viscosity sprays or also as low-viscosity / free-flowing lotions / fluids.

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Zweiphasige kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Sonnenschutzzubereitungen enthaltend a) eine W/O-Emulsion, b) eine lipophile oder wassrige Phase, c) mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator, d) mindestens einen organischen und/oder anorganischen UV-Filter, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine Phase nicht durchsichtig und/oder durchscheinend ist.1. Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparations containing a) a W / O emulsion, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one W / O emulsifier, d) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter, characterized in that at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent.
2. Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 dadurch, gekennzeichnet, dass sie eine lipophile beziehungsweise wassrige Phase in einer Menge von 5 bis 95 Vol.-%, insbesonderel O bis 90 Vol.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtvolumen der Formulierung enthalten.2. Sun protection preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain a lipophilic or aqueous phase in an amount of 5 to 95 vol .-%, in particular 0 to 90 vol .-%, based on the total volume of the formulation.
3. Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie einen oder mehrere W/O-Emulgatoren in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 3 Gewichts-% enthalten.3. Sun protection preparations according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain one or more W / O emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight.
4. Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als W/O-Emulgatoren Cetyldimethicon-Copolyol, Glycerylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-2- dipolyhydroxystearat und/oder PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearat eingesetzt werden.4. Sunscreen preparations according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that cetyldimethicone copolyol, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and / or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate are used as W / O emulsifiers.
5. Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als organische UV-Filter unsymmetrisch substituierte Triazine, Bisimidazylate, Benzotriazole und/oder bei Raumtemperatur flüssige UV-Filter eingesetzt werden. 5. Sun protection preparations according to claim 1 to 4, characterized in that asymmetrically substituted triazines, bisimidazylates, benzotriazoles and / or UV filters which are liquid at room temperature are used as the organic UV filters.
6. Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als anorganisch-pigmentärer UV-Filter Titandioxid und/oder Zinkoxid eingesetzt wird. 6. Sun protection preparations according to claim 1 to 5, characterized in that titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide is used as the inorganic pigmentary UV filter.
7. Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie in klaren und/oder durchscheinenden Verpackungsbehältnissen aufbewahrt und aus diesen heraus angewendet werden. 7. Sun protection preparations according to claim 1 to 6, characterized in that they are stored in clear and / or translucent packaging containers and are used from these.
8. Verfahren zur Herstellung von Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die W/O-Emulsion und die lipophile beziehungsweise wassrige Phase zunächst in getrennten Gefäßen zubereitet und anschließend vereinigt werden. 8. A method for producing sunscreen preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase are first prepared in separate vessels and then combined.
9. Verwendung von W/O-Emulgatoren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Einstellung der Phasenauftrenngeschwindigkeit von homogenisierten Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7.9. Use of W / O emulsifiers according to one of the preceding claims for adjusting the phase separation speed of homogenized sunscreen preparations according to one of claims 1 to 7.
10. Verwendung von Sonnenschutzzubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Sonnenschutzmittel, nachdem dieses durch Schütteln homogenisiert wurde. 10. Use of sunscreen preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a sunscreen after it has been homogenized by shaking.
EP03704616A 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Biphasic sunscreen preparation comprising a w/o emulsion Ceased EP1478325A1 (en)

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DE102004002612A1 (en) * 2004-01-15 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Visualization of sunscreen on the skin
DE102004002999A1 (en) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-11 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations
DE102004003000A1 (en) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations
DE102004002996A1 (en) * 2004-01-19 2005-08-04 Beiersdorf Ag Sprayable skin-care agent or sunscreen is based on a low-viscosity, lipid- containing W/O emulsion with PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate as the sole emulsifier
ATE536168T1 (en) 2004-09-01 2011-12-15 Basf Se MICROPARTICULAR ORGANIC UV ABSORBING COMPOSITION
DE102005019548A1 (en) * 2005-04-22 2006-10-26 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic water-oil-water (W/O/W) emulsion, useful e.g. prevents premature aging, comprises an emulsifier combination of e.g. polyglycerol-2-dipolyhydroxystearate and polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitantristearate
US8486425B1 (en) 2012-08-08 2013-07-16 L'oreal Two-phase sunscreen composition
JP2020105074A (en) * 2018-12-11 2020-07-09 ロレアル Two-phase sunscreen composition

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DE19719297A1 (en) * 1997-05-07 1998-11-12 Henkel Kgaa Preparation of multiple water/oil/water emulsions
FR2768337B1 (en) * 1997-09-16 1999-10-15 Oreal W / O / W-TYPE THREE EMULSIONS CONTAINING A PHOTOPROTECTIVE SYSTEM CAPABLE OF FILTERING UV RAYS; THEIR USES IN COSMETICS
FR2778858B1 (en) * 1998-05-20 2000-06-16 Oreal STABLE W / O / W EMULSION AND ITS USE AS A COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION
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