DE20314969U1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations, especially sunscreens, contain a non- aggregating reflecting solid of specified dimensions - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain reflecting solids (pigments) which have the following three dimensions : a =1 mu ; b = 10-70 mu ; and c = 10-70 mu .

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological (light protection) preparation with a content of certain reflective pigments ("micromirrors").

In addition to the positive effects sunlight, general well-being, education of vitamin D3 and acne treatment, there are also negative effects, which must be counteracted.

• – 1. Grad: Erythem (Rötung, Wärmegefühl) klingt nach 2 bis 3 Tagen wieder ab und verschwindet unter gleichzeitig zunehmender Pigmentierung,
• – 2. Grad: Blasenbildung auf der Haut bilden sich Blasen mit Brennen und Jucken, die Oberhaut wird flächig abgestoßen
• – 3. Grad: Zellschädigung es treten tiefgehende Zellschädigungen auf, der Körper reagiert mit Fieber, die Oberhaut wird großflächig abgestoßen.

If the skin is exposed to the sun or an artificial radiation source for too long, after a latency period of 2 to 3 hours a reddening of the skin, the erythema solare, develops against the unexposed skin. With the resulting sunburn, one differentiates between

• - 1st degree: erythema (reddening, feeling of warmth) subsides after 2 to 3 days and disappears with increasing pigmentation,
• - 2nd degree: blistering on the skin, blisters with burning and itching, the epidermis is pushed off flat
• - 3rd degree: cell damage there is profound cell damage, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis is rejected over a large area.

The 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called Dermatitis called solar.

The formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength. The erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.

About 90% of those who reach Earth ultraviolet radiation consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. During the UV-B radiation dependent on greatly varied by numerous factors (e.g. season and time of day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains independent of annual and daytime or geographic factors day by day relative constant. At the same time, the predominant part of UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis while about 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer become.

You have mistakenly for a long time assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation only has a negligible biological effect has and that accordingly the UV-B rays for most light damage responsible for human skin. In the meantime, however proven by numerous studies that UV-A radiation with regard on the trigger photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes of the skin far more dangerous than UV-B radiation. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also intensified by UV-A radiation become.

The sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of exposure to light. Furthermore but shows up on particularly strongly exposed skin areas (face, Neck, hands) with increasing age due to the related high total dose caused by radiation (actinic) change of the skin. The most striking chronic light damage the skin is actinic or senile elastosis. She expresses macroscopically yourself in a thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, Loss of elasticity, Occurrence of yellowish shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations. The epidermis becomes thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water retention capacity is reduced. To chronic light damage, which is considered a late consequence occur belong furthermore malignant melanoma and in the last stage actinic Keratosis.

Because the contributions of the different wavelength ranges of the UV light is not yet complete clarified are preventive protection for both the UV-A and the UV-B range, for example by applying light protection filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin, crucial Importance. Cosmetic preparations should be the critical UV-A rays in principle absorb strongly, not only to protect sensitive skin when Sunbathing, but also for general protection up to use in a normal skin cream, since skin aging and risk of skin cancer are significantly different from this Part of the UV light affected become.

The benefit of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the time that a consumer can stay in the sun without causing light damage. The filter effect should be especially for the UV-B range of the individual Sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of sun exposure customized his.

The weakening of the intensity of the irradiated Light and thus the effectiveness of a sun protection formulation are dependent among other things on the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With increasing Layer thickness increased also the effectiveness of a sunscreen. Especially at low-viscosity preparations like oils or alcoholic solutions it is therefore necessary to start at a certain limit concentration Filter substance also the viscosity the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the To increase skin. It's about it only possible to a limited extent, by increasing the sun protection factor to the concentration of the UV filter substance increase.

Those with a special foundation The layer thickness achieved is a very important criterion in light protection. In general, the sun protection factor increases in the order of oil <alcoholic solution <liquid emulsion <cream <paste. Another Another important parameter in this context is adhesiveness or water resistance of the formulations on the skin. Most Sunscreens are used near the water or during sporting activities (sweating) applied. The user can use a waterproof sunscreen not just during of bathing, but also protect against sunburn after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much.

The state of the art naturally knows one Numerous different light protection formulations with the most varied Sun protection factors and application properties. Disadvantage of these usual sunscreens is that the After applying the cream, the user can neither see whether he has all of the Body parts exposed to radiation with a protective Has still covered whether the skin covering is sufficient Dimension is done is, d. H. whether the layer thickness was chosen sufficiently. Another disadvantage is that the User can not track how the layer thickness of the sunscreen changed for example through contact with water or mechanical loads such as drying etc. and when to apply a new cream accordingly has become necessary.

In the worst case, this can happen lead to a reduced protective effect of the products.

Especially for children's and baby products high protection performance of the preparations is of particular importance, because children due to the lower swell of light (thickening of the Horny layer) and the reduced self-protection are particularly susceptible to sunburns and often play for hours on or in the water. Furthermore is an adult's skin cancer risk the higher the more sunburns than Child has suffered.

At the same time, it is often problematic Apply enough cream to children, as they are usually very restless or are impatient and sunscreen preparations with a high sunscreen factor are also poor because of their generally higher viscosity spread out. Furthermore is it for Parents generally find it difficult to tell when the sunscreen rubbed off or washed off and the children re-creamed should be.

The task of the present ending was accordingly, to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and opportunities to find cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations visualize on the skin and thus the application of an even film to lighten the skin.

The describes DE-100 34 332-A1 the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin. Furthermore describes the DE-100 35 512-A1 the use of dyes to make cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations visible on the skin.

Both the EP-941 051-B1 as well as the EP 1 136 059-A2 also describe colored sunscreen emulsions which are characterized in that the color essentially fades when the sunscreen emulsion dries after it has been distributed on the skin and / or rubbed into the skin. However, the effect achieved here also falls short of the hoped-for effect.

Furthermore, the prior art knows sunscreens with ultra-spectral protection, which are intended to offer complete protection against the entire spectrum of the sun reaching the earth ( EP-898 955-A2 ).

And of course the use of so-called "physical Filter substances "(pigments), which depending on size and shape reflect certain parts of the sunlight and bring about a filter effect, known for a long time.

However, the state of the art do not point the way to the present invention.

• 2. a ≤ 1 μm,
• 3. 10 μm ≤ b ≤ 70 μm und
• 4. 10 μm ≤ c ≤70 μm gewählt werden,

den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen würden.After all, it was surprising and in no way foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing reflecting solid substances which have the dimensions a, b and c in the three spatial directions A, B and C, wherein

• 2. a ≤ 1 μm,
• 3. 10 μm ≤ b ≤ 70 μm and
• 4. 10 μm ≤ c ≤70 μm can be selected,

would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

The solid substances according to the invention reflect visible light and accordingly act as "micromirrors" or "micromirror foils". They are crystalline and usually show an atomic fracture surface, on which the incident light is reflected. Advantageous in the sense of the present invention are in particular solid substances, which do not show any absorption, which are accordingly below Do not heat radiation.

It was particularly surprising that the solid substances according to the invention - just like the cosmetic preparation itself - are homogeneously distributed on the skin when the product is spread on it. A particular advantage of the solid substances according to the invention is that they do not collect in the (fine) folds of the skin, but rather on the skin areas lying between the skin folds alen be evenly distributed. Surprisingly, no solid aggregates are formed, but the solid platelets lie separately on the skin after the product has spread (see 1 ).

The preparations according to the invention themselves usually show no or only low reflective properties, as a rectified Arrangement of the micromirrors is decisive for the (macro-copic) reflection behavior preparation. In the preparations according to the invention Micromirror foils but irregularly aligned and above possibly beyond also rather slightly aggregated. The solid substances according to the invention also act not refective even if it is covered by the preparation are. When the product is distributed on the skin, the solid substances according to the invention become through physisorption or adhesion detained so that they smoothly streaked and flatly aligned and further from the cosmic Preparation can be exempted.

Only this property of the solid substances according to the invention allows their mirror effect on the skin surface.

The substances according to the invention can both individually and in a mixture. The total amount of substances according to the invention is advantageously in the range from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5 % By weight selected, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations in the sense of the present Invention can preferably one or more water phases in addition to one or more oil phases included and for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions are present. Such formulations can preferably also microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called mousse), solid emulsions (i.e. emulsions stabilized by solids, e.g. B. Pickering emulsions), sprayable Emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the Preparations advantageously also oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions his. It is preferred according to the invention when the formulations are water tested.

(Macroscopic) two-phase or multi-phase systems are also advantageous according to the invention. “Two-phase or multi-phase ^” in the sense of the present invention means that two or more phases are layered separately one above the other. In the sense of the present ending, it is particularly advantageous if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases is a (W / O, O / W, micro) emulsion. In this (macroscopic) observation, the emulsion is perceived as one phase, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that emulsions per se are formed from two or more phases homogenized with one another. The “emulsion phase” is stable over the long term, so that segregation or phase separation within the emulsion does not occur even over a longer period (months, years). The macroscopically visible phases or layers can be advantageously - for example by shaking - a short time emulsify homogeneous emulsion, which is not stable over the long term, but rather segregates again into two or more phases layered over a period of minutes, hours or days It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases has one Microemulsion and at least one other of the macroscopically visible phases is an oil phase.

It is special according to the invention preferred if the cosmetic preparations contain ingredients, which ensure good spreadability of the product on the skin.

Sprayable emulsions, in particular Microemulsions Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present Invention are sprayable O / W emulsions, especially O / W microemulsions.

The droplet diameters of the usual "simple", i.e. non-multiple emulsions are in the range of approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such "macroemulsions ^" are milky white colored and opaque without additional coloring additives. Their finer "macroemulsions" have droplet diameters in the range of approx 0.5 μm to approx. 1 μm are bluish white and opaque, again without coloring additives. Such “macroemulsions” usually have a high viscosity.

The droplet diameter of microemulsions however, in the sense of the present invention lies in the range of about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are colored bluish white to translucent and mostly low viscosity. The viscosity of many Microemulsions of the O / W type are comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that in the disperse phase active ingredients are present in much finer disperse can than in the disperse phase of "macro emulsions". On another advantage is that they are easier to spray due to their low viscosity. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, corresponding ones stand out Products characterized by high cosmetic elegance.

• – ihre Lipophilie ist abhängig von der Temperatur, dergestalt daß durch Erhöhung der Temperatur die Lipophilie zunimmt und durch Senkung der Temperatur die Lipophilie des Emulgators abnimmt.

O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and which contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention:

• - Their lipophilicity depends on the temperature, such that the lipophilicity increases by increasing the temperature and the lipophilicity of the emulsifier decreases by lowering the temperature.

Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 Laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (Cetearath-12, Cetearath-20, Isoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Lau reth-9 etc.) and / or Alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, palmityl Glycosides etc.).

If the phase inversion essentially by varying the temperature are O / W emulsions, especially O / W microemulsions available, the size of the oil droplets in the essentially by the concentration of the emulsifier (s) used is determined in such a way that a higher Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and fewer Emulsifier concentration leads to larger droplets. The Droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

In the sense of the present ending, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers that do not fall under the definition of emulsifier A, for example in order to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention. Here z. B. alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (especially cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol); W / O emulsifiers (such as, for example, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl-3 nozzle ostearate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, Düsostearoylpolyglycerearate-3-di-di-glyceryl-3-di-di-glyceryl-3-di-di-glyceryl-3-di-glyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8 phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc.) can be used.

Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions in the sense of the present extension are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological Hydrodispersions, which have at least one oil phase and at least one water phase included, the preparation by at least one gel former is stabilized and does not necessarily contain emulsifiers it has to can contain one or more emulsifiers.

Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylics / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen ^® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.

Carbopole are also advantageous Gelling agent for such preparations. Carböpole are polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. advantageous Carbopols are, for example, types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. likewise the ETD types 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10. Other advantageous gel formers for such Preparations are xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.

As possible (optional) emulsifiers can ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (especially PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surfactants Substances are used.

• – mindestens einen Silikonemulgator (W/S) mit einem HLB-Wert s 8 und/oder mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert < 7 und
• – mindestens einen O/W-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert > 10 enthalten.

Furthermore, the very thin to sprayable emulsions can also W / Obzw. Water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. W / O or W / S emulsions are particularly advantageous

• - At least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value s 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and
• - Contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10.

Such preparations contain furthermore at least 20% by weight of lipids, the lipid phase being advantageous also silicone oils contain or even consist entirely of such.

The silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicane copolyols (e.g. dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL ^® B 8842, ABIL ^® B 8843, ABIL ^® B 8847, ABIL ^® B 8851, ABIL ^® B 8852, ABIL ^® B 8863, ABIL ^® B 8873 and ABIL ^® B 88183 are sold, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL ^® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL ^® EM 97], lauryl [Dow Corning Ltd. / Dow Corning ^® 5200 Formulation Aid], octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside [Wacker].

The one or more W / O emulsifiers with an HLB value <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methylglucose dioleate Mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10-30 - alkyl acrylate cross polymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl 2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

The O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be selected from the following group: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 -Ricinus oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 Phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate , Ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, Ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearylsulfate, P Stearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, methyl-glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20-stearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, Isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetylphosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate-phosphate-phosphate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycolate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate-trilate-glycate-phosphate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearate, Ce teth-10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Aqueous-alcoholic are also advantageous Solutions. You can from 0% to 90% by weight of ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can be found in Solubilizers are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention included, such as B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

The preparations according to the present Invention can also advantageous as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions, with which in particular water-insoluble substrates - such. B. woven or non-woven cloths - moistened are used. Such impregnation solutions are preferably thin, in particular sprayable (such as PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions, etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa · s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa · s (Measuring device: Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C). With their help, for example, cosmetic sun protection wipes, wipes and the like available which combines the soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution.

oils

The preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes. Advantageous oils are e.g. B. synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl dodecanol and the like. Various waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used as oil gel formers. Gel formers from the group of aerosils, alkylgalactomannans (eg N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives are also advantageous.

foams

Particularly advantageous in the sense of The present invention are also self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or expandable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Preparations are to be found under “self-foaming”, “foam-like”, “post-foaming” or “foamable” understand which foams - be it already during of the manufacturing process, be it in the application by the consumer or in another way - by entering one or more gases in the Principle can be produced. The gas bubbles lie in such foams (any) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), where the (foamed) Preparations macroscopically do not necessarily have the appearance of a foam. Cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological preparations (hereinafter the simplicity for the sake of foams referred to) z. B. macroscopically visible dispersed systems in liquids represent dispersed gases. The foam character can, for example only become visible under a (light) microscope. Beyond that foams according to the invention - in particular then when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - even at the strong increase in volume of the system can be seen.

• A. mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nicht neutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B. mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäurester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
• C. mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen besteht.

For the purposes of the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of

• A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
• C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

The one or more emulsifiers preferably chosen from the group of fatty acids, which in whole or in part with usual Alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or Potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) neutralized are. For example, stearic acid and Stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates and myristic acid and myristates.

The or the emulsifiers B are preferably chosen from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. For example, polyethoxylated ones are particularly advantageous Stearic.

According to the invention, the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols) , which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, it is advantageous the weight ratios from emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as to choose a: b: c, where a, b and c are independent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3 can represent. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and the coemulsifier C in the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15 % By weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight, in each case based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose:

Pickering / solid stabilized emulsions

Particularly advantageous in the sense of The present invention is also cosmetic or dermatological Preparations made only by finely divided solid particles are stabilized. Such "emulsifier-free" emulsions also known as Pickering emulsions.

It happens in Pickering emulsions for an enrichment of the solid substance at the oil / water phase boundary in the form of a layer, which prevents the disperse phases from flowing together becomes. The surface properties are of particular importance the solid particles, which are both hydrophilic and lipophilic Should show properties.

The stabilizing solid particles can be advantageous also superficial treated to be water-repellent ("coated"), whereby a amphiphilic character of these solid particles are formed or should be preserved. The surface treatment can consist of that the Solid particles according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic or hydrophilic layer.

The average particle diameter the microfine solid particles used as the stabilizer is preferred smaller than 100 μm, selected particularly advantageously less than 50 microns. It is essentially irrelevant in what form (platelets, Rod, globule etc.) or modification of the solid particles used.

• – Titandioxide (gecoatet und ungecoatet): z. B. Eusolex T-2000 von der Fa. Merck, Titandioxid MT-100 Z von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• – Zinkoxide z. B. Z-Cote und Z-Cote HP1 von der BASF AG, MZ -300, MZ -500 und MZ-505M von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• – Eisenoxide

The microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:

• - Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): e.g. B. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation
• - Zinc oxides e.g. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation
• - iron oxides

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles from the following group chosen are: boron nitrides, starch derivatives (Tapioca Starch, Sodium Corn Starch Octynylsuccinat etc.), talc, latex particles.

According to the invention, it is advantageous if the solid-stabilized emulsions are significantly less than Contain or even contain 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers completely are free of emulsifiers.

pencils

Preparations in the form of pens are also advantageous for the purposes of the invention. From a technical point of view, most stick formulations are water-free fat mixtures from solid or semi-solid waxes and flowable oils, with highly purified paraffin oils and waxes being the stick base.

Conventional base materials for stick preparations are, for example, liquid oils (such as. For example, paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C ₁₂ _ ₁₅ alkyl benzoate), semisolid constituents (e.g., as Vaseline, lanolin), solid constituents (e.g., for example, beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and / or high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax). Water-containing stick-like preparations are also known per se, although these can also be in the form of W / O emulsions.

The cosmetic or dermatological invention Sunscreen formulations can as usual be composed and the cosmetic or dermatological Sun protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present Invention, used for example as a skin protection cream, Cleansing milk, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous, the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical Use wording.

The cosmetic are used and dermatological preparations in the usual for cosmetics Sufficiently applied to the skin and / or hair.

The cosmetic and dermatological Preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations be used, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, Complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing or increasing foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring Have effect thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fillers, which the skin feeling improve fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ^™ ), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S from the company

Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB by Jan Dekker), parabens (i.e. p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually comprises the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerin, glycine soy etc.

Advantageous complexing agents in. senses The present invention includes, for example, EDTA, [S, S] ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which, for example, under the trade name Octaquest available from Octel is pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonate; which z. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. from Bayer AG under the trade name Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 permanently available is.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants as additives or active ingredients be used. Included according to the invention the preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of present invention can water-soluble Antioxidants are used, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also Vitamin E and its derivatives as well as Vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

It is particularly advantageous when the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred Active ingredients are antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress protect can.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, Carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2 ; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (in particular α-glycosyl rutin), Contain coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for prophylaxis and treatment cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. at skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles, Itching, reduced regreasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, Cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased vulnerability across from mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). Farther they are advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The water phase of the preparations according to the present Invention can advantageously be conventional contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or Isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the Group of the so-called Carbopole [from Bf. Goodrich], for example Carbopole types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, individually or in combination.

The preparations according to the present Invention can also advantageously self-tanning substances contain, such as dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1 wt .-% up to 8 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Z are advantageous. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadelphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester (under the trade names Insect Repellent ^® 3535 available from Merck). The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

Fabrics or Mixtures of substances referred to which cosmetic or dermatological Give preparations the property after application or Spread the on the skin surface Release of moisture from the horny layer (also transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or the hydration of the horny layer to positively influence.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Are particularly advantageous, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and is available, for example from SOLABIA SA under the name ^® Fucogel 1000th Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle agents for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for example in US Pat. B. occur in skin aging, are used.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which r. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is chosen advantageously from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as z. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

According to the invention, z. B. natural Waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as Beeswax and other insect waxes as well as berry wax, shea butter and / or Lanolin (wool wax).

Other advantageous polar oil components can in the sense of the present invention can also be selected from the group of Esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, Octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodekanol, cetearyl isononanoate; isopropyl, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, Tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous are z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that under the trade name Cetiol CC at Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _{12-1 3} -alkyl lactate, di-cis- _13- aryl, di-C ₁₂ -earate Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises ₁₂ _ ₁₅ -alkyl or a content of C consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under the trade name Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or Diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).

Any mix of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also be advantageous also non-polar oils contain, for example those which are selected from the group the branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred Substances.

The oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [Poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 are available from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicones), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI is also known as cyclomethicone amino modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are different Abil wax types are available from Th. Goldschmidt. But other silicone oils are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example Cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

• (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO₁₅ und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1–24-Alkyl ( wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;
• (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)
• – im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und
• – im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• (a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO ₁₅ and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (such as methyl , Ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
• (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
• - Is in the range of 1 to 20 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
• - Is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageous in the sense of the present Invention are the or the siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical Powder or in the form of gels.

According to the invention advantageous in the form of spherical Powder present siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone large polymer, for example that by DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic Esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof is used.

It is very particularly preferred when the siloxane elastomer in combination with unbranched at room temperature liquid. or pasty silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof are used. Are particularly advantageous Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, especially those from Grant Industries Inc. available Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer in the form of a gel made of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase is used, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel is 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the gel.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the total amount of siloxane elastomers (active content) the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

It is also beneficial in the sense the present extension, cosmetic and dermatological preparations to create whose main The purpose of protection from sunlight is not, but it still contains a content contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cheap are also cosmetic and dermatological preparations that in in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain in the sense of the present invention preferably at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The wording can, although not necessary, possibly one or more organic ones and / or inorganic pigments as physical UV filter substances contain which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the present Invention can also advantageously in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological Emulsions are present which have a water phase and at least one liquid at room temperature UV filter substance included as a further phase and which is particularly advantageous also free of other oil components could be.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: Ethylhexyi salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate (4-methoxycinnamate) isopentylcinnamate (4-methoxycinnamate), isopentylcinnamate (4-methoxycinnamate), : isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ); Zir conium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The pigments can be advantageous in the sense of present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use. These predispersions can advantageously be used as dispersants and / or solubilizing agents may be added.

The pigments can be advantageous according to the invention superficial treated ("coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is formed will or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided.

The different surface coatings can in the sense of the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, Lauric acid, Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone); Methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. This organic surface coatings can alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic Coating materials occur.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US 5,663,213 respectively. EP 0 761 201 , Particularly advantageous latex p articles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and z. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere ^" from Rohm & Haas.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eurolex ^® 9020.

• – Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1jhept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und des sen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3=bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present extension are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1jhept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no. : 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3 = bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

worin R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylreste mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft, die Reste R¹ und R² gleich zu wählen, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der verzweigten Alkylreste mit 3 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist ferner besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn R³ einen unverzweigten oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere den 2-Ethylhexylrest darstellt.Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are characterized by the following structural formula,

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of the branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.

auszeichnet und bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb^® K2A erhältlich ist.Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3, 5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula

distinguished and is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb ^® K2A.

That or the benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously in dissolved Form in the cosmetic according to the invention Preparations. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative or derivatives in pigmentary, d. H. undissolved form - for example in particle sizes of 10 nm up to 300 nm.

worin

• – R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁–C₂₀–Alkyl, C₃–C₁₀–Cycloalkyl oder C₃–C₁₀–Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• – R³ einen C₁–C₂₀–Alkyl Rest bedeutet.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

• - R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• - R ^{3 represents} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical.

und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:

and is available under the Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances In the sense of the present extension so-called broadband filters are also i.e. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• –2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• – Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• – 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltrümino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird;
• – 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725-22-6).

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• -2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltrümino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anili no- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL ^® T 150;
• - 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) ( INCI: Methylene Bis-Benztriazolyl Tetramethyibutylphenol), which e.g. is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Advantageous broadband filter in According to the present invention, 2- (2N-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• – 3-Benrylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenryliden)campher, 3-Benrylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• – an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benrylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenrylidene) camphor, 3-benrylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• - UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are z. E.g .: sulfonic acid derivatives the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, sold under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 T is available (octocrylene) from BASF.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, contain in addition to or the filter substances according to the invention) furthermore preferably further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidaryl) -3,3'-5; 5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt individually or in any combination with each other. The List of the UV filters mentioned in the sense of the present invention can be used should go without saying not be limiting.

The preparations advantageously contain according to the present Invention the substances that UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range absorb, in a total amount of e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic Preparations available to place the hair or skin in front of the entire area protect from ultraviolet radiation.

• A) PEG-45 Dodecylglykolcopolymer (INCI: PEG-45 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer [y=z=11 und x=45]) und PEG-22 Dodecylglykolcopolymer (INCI: PEG-22 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer [y=z=4,5 und x=22]) und Methoxy PEG-22 Dodecylglykolcopolymer (INCI: Methoxy PEG-22 Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer [y=7 und x=22 und R = CH₃]) zu verwenden, welche von der Firma AKZO Nobel erhältlich sind.
• B) wasserlösliche oder in Wasser dispergierbare Polyoxyethylen-Polyoxypropylen-Blockpolymere (CTFA-Bezeichnung: Polaxamere, CAS-Nr. 9003-11-6) mit folgender Struktur:
  
  wobei x, y und z ganze Zahlen aus dem Bereich von 2 bis 130, insbesondere von 15 bis 100 darstellen und x und z gleich sind, aber unabhängig von y gewählt werden. Unter diesen sind insbesondere Polaxamer 188 [mit x = 75, y = 30 und z = 75], welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Lutrol F 68 (alt: Pluronic F 68) von der Firma BASF zu beziehen ist, das Polyxamer 185 (mit x = 19, y = 30 und z = 19] (Lubrajel WA von ISP), das Polyxamer 235 [mit x = 27, y = 39 und z = 27] (Pluronic F 85 von BASF) und/oder das Polyxamer 238 [mit x = 97, y = 39 und z = 97] (Pluronic F 88 von BASF) vorteilhaft zu verwenden.
• C) acetylierte Stearinsäureester, wie z. B. acetyliertes Glykolstearat. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft kann auch die Kombination von acetyliertem Glykolstearat mit Tristearin (INCI: Acetylated Glycol Stearat and Tristearin) verwendet werden, welche beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Unitwix von der Fa. ISP erhältlich ist. Solche Produkte sind unter den Chemical-Abstracts-Registraturnummern 91052-08-3 und 94944-95-3 registriert.
• D) Weitere vorteilhafte Substanzen, welche zur Steigerung der Wasserfestigkeit beitragen können, aber in die Ölphase der Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung eingearbeitet werden, sind bestimmte Wachskomponenten, wie C_18–36 Fettsäuretriglycerid (z. B: Syncrowax HGLC von der Fa. Crode GmbH mit der INCI: C18-36 Acid Triglyceride) sowie die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen „Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer) und „Perfroma V 825" (synethisches Wachs) von New Phase Technologies erhältlichen Substanzen.

The preparations within the meaning of the present invention may also advantageously contain substances which increase the water resistance of the products. The substances mentioned to increase the water resistance are particularly advantageous:

• A) PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 11 and x = 45]) and PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 4.5 and x = 22]) and methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: Methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = 7 and x = 22 and R = CH ₃ ]), which are available from AKZO Nobel.
• B) Water-soluble or water-dispersible polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers (CTFA name: Polaxamers, CAS No. 9003-11-6) with the following structure:
  
  where x, y and z represent integers from the range from 2 to 130, in particular from 15 to 100 and x and z are the same, but are chosen independently of y. Among these are in particular Polaxamer 188 [with x = 75, y = 30 and z = 75], which under the trade name Lutrol F 68 (old: Pluronic F 68) can be obtained from BASF, the Polyxamer 185 (with x = 19, y = 30 and z = 19] (Lubrajel WA from ISP), the Polyxamer 235 [with x = 27, y = 39 and z = 27] ( Pluronic F 85 from BASF) and / or the Polyxamer 238 [with x = 97, y = 39 and z = 97] (Pluronic F 88 from BASF) can be used advantageously.
• C) acetylated stearic acid esters, such as. B. Acetylated glycol stearate. According to the invention, the combination of acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCI: acetylated glycol stearate and tristearin), which is available, for example, from ISP under the trade name Unitwix, can also be used advantageously. Such products are registered under Chemical Abstracts registration numbers 91052-08-3 and 94944-95-3.
• D) Other advantageous substances which can contribute to increasing the water resistance but are incorporated into the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention are certain wax components, such as C _18-36 fatty acid triglyceride (for example: Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 Acid Triglyceride) and the substances available from New Phase Technologies under the trade names "Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30-38 olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer) and "Perfroma V 825" (synthetic wax) ,

It is particularly beneficial in the sense the present invention one or more of the substances mentioned to combine to improve the water resistance of the preparations.

The following examples are intended illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The Numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples:

1. O / W lotion

2. O / W lotion

3. O / W lotion

4. Sun foam

5. Sprayable emulsion

6. Pickering lotion

7. PIT - emulsions (spray)

8. Protection pin

9. Hydrodispersion spray

Claims (6)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation with a content on reflective solid substances, which in the three spatial directions A, B and C the dimensions a, b and c, wherein - a ≤ 1 μm, - 10μm ≤ b ≤ 70 μm and - 10μm ≤ c ≤ 70 μm to get voted. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the Total amount of reflective solid substances from the area from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight is selected, based on the total weight of the preparations. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they have at least one self-tanning substance contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it contains at least one substance that UV radiation absorbed in the UV-A and / or UV-B range. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it contains inorganic pigments that serve as physical UV filter substances. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is waterproof is.