EP1380288B1 - Cosmetic and dermatological photoprotective compositions containing hydrophobic acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) polymer - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to water-resistant cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen preparations containing hydrophobized acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers (hereinafter also referred to as AMPS polymers) and to the use of such substances for increasing the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. Depending on their respective wavelength, the rays have different effects on the organ skin:

The so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength between 100 and 280 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer of the earth's atmosphere and is accordingly not found in the solar spectrum. It is therefore physiologically meaningless when sunbathing.

The so-called UV-B range is between 290 nm and 320 nm. UV-B rays are essential for the long-lasting tanning of the skin, but can also cause erythema, simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns. Chronic photo damage, photodermatoses and herpes solaris can also be caused by UV-B radiation.

It has for a long time been erroneously assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation having a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect and, accordingly, that the UV-B rays for most Damage to the human skin are responsible. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have proven that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation with regard to triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. Also, the damaging effect of UV-B radiation can be enhanced by UV-A radiation.

So it is u. a. It has been proven that even under normal everyday conditions even UV-A radiation is sufficient to rapidly damage the collagen and elastin fibers, which are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin includes, for example, wrinkles and wrinkles, and an irregular, ridged relief. Furthermore, the areas affected by photoaging may have irregular pigmentation. The formation of brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas is possible. In addition, a prematurely aged skin due to the everyday UV exposure is characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a slight, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the Earth consists of UVA rays. While UV-B radiation varies widely depending on many factors (eg, time of year, day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day and day regardless of year, daytime or geographical factors. At the same time, most of the UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.

The recent findings on the effect of UV-A rays on the skin have led to increased attention being devoted to protective measures for this radiation area. Virtually no sunscreen product can do without effective UV-A filter effect, pure UV-B filter preparations are rare.

When applying a sunscreen to the skin, the ultraviolet rays can be attenuated by two effects: on the one hand by reflection and scattering of the rays on the surface of powdered solids (physical light protection) and on the other by absorption on chemical substances (chemical light protection). Depending on which wavelength range is absorbed, a distinction is made between UV-B filters (absorption range 280 to 320 nm), UV-A filters (absorption range 320 to 400 nm) and broadband filters (absorption range 290 to 380 nm).

For protection against UV-B radiation, numerous compounds are known, with their absorption maximum should be around 308 nm, since there is the highest erythema efficiency of solar radiation here. Typical UV-B filters are z. As derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for protection against UV-A radiation, some compounds are known, in particular Dibenzoylmethanderivate. However, dibenzoylmethane derivatives are generally not photostable, which is why cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing this substance should advantageously also contain certain UV stabilizers. Other known UV-A filter substances are certain water-soluble, sulfonated UV filter substances, such as e.g. Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts.

In addition to the pure UV-A or UV-B filters, there are substances that cover both areas. To this group of broadband filters include, for example, asymmetrically substituted s-triazine compounds, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (1NCl: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine), certain benzophenones, such as. For example, the 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (1NCl: benzophenones 3) or the 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3 , 3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylenebutylphenol).

In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply quite strict standards to the documentation. Since not only the position of the absorption maximum, but above all the absorption range is important for the characterization of a filter substance each substance absorption spectra recorded. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations, however, the extinction values can at most provide orientation, since interactions with ingredients of the skin or of the skin surface itself can lead to uncertainties. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how uniformly and in which layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the horny layer of the skin.

To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (lPD≡ immediate pigment darkening). Here, similar to the determination of the sun protection factor, a value is determined which indicates by how much longer the skin protected with the sunscreen can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as with the unprotected skin.

However, the use concentration of known sunscreen present sunscreen filter substances that show a high filtering effect especially in the UV-A range, however, is often - especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved - limited. It therefore prepares certain formulation-technical difficulties to achieve higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance.

Since sunscreen filter substances are generally expensive and since some sunscreens are also difficult to incorporate in higher concentrations in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, it was an object of the invention to arrive at preparations in a simple and inexpensive manner, which at unusually low concentrations of conventional UV- Filter substances nevertheless achieve an acceptable or even high UV-A and / or UV-B protection performance.

Also in the field of sunscreen formulations emulsions play the crucial role. Flowable or low-viscosity emulsions are preferred because they are easier to apply than viscous creams.

Most sunscreens are used near water or during exercise (sweating), which is why the water resistance of such formulations is of particular importance. A waterproof sunscreen not only protects the user after bathing, but also protects him during bathing before a sunburn. It is a common misconception that water provides good or even sufficient protection against ultraviolet radiation. Rather, studies have shown that the permeability to UV-B rays is about 1 m below the water surface at about 50%. It is therefore advisable that also water sports, which z. As swimming, surfing or snorkeling, and especially children who often play for hours on or in the water, protect the skin with a well-adhering, difficult to rinse off by water and sweat sun product from excessive and excessive sunlight.

In order to achieve high sun protection factors with at the same time very good water resistance, W / O formulations are generally advantageous. However, W / O emulsions often have unsatisfactory cosmetic properties: when applied, they can leave on the skin a greasy, shiny and sometimes sticky impression and - especially on hairy skin - difficult to distribute.

O / W emulsions, on the other hand, have less of a greasy effect on the skin, are more mattifying and quickly penetrate the skin. They are generally perceived by consumers as lighter and more cosmetically elegant than W / O emulsions. However, since water is the outer phase, O / W emulsions are usually only partially waterproof.

In order to improve the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen preparations, it may be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations. According to the prior art, this z. Polyurethanes (eg the Avalure® grades from Goodrich), dimethicone copolyol polyacrylates (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF), C _20-40 carboxylic acid with polyethylene (Performacid 350 from New Phase Technologies) and film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP):

Particular preference is given to using copolymers of the polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer which are present under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 are available from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

However, it is disadvantageous for such formulations which contain film formers in an effective (that is to say increase the water resistance) concentration that they leave a sticky and greasy impression when applied to the skin.

In addition to the influence of the base, the binding ability of the UV filter in or on the skin is of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understood that oil-soluble UV filters are better bound to the (lipophilic) surface of the skin or are more difficult to wash off this than water-soluble UV filters.

A further object of the invention was therefore to arrive at preparations (in particular O / W formulations) in a simple and inexpensive manner, which are distinguished by good water resistance. In particular, preparations should be found which have a high content of water-soluble UV filters and nevertheless show a very good water resistance.

Surprisingly and unforeseeable for the skilled person, the objects are achieved by a preparation according to claim 1.

Although the expert knows the EP 1203789 . EP 0642781 . EP 1069142 . DE 10059826 and DE 10029462 However, these writings could not point the way to the present invention.

The preparations according to the present invention represent in all respects extremely satisfactory preparations, which are not limited to a limited choice of raw materials. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable for serving as a basis for multi-purpose preparation forms. The preparations according to the present invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the spreadability to the skin or the ability to absorb into the skin, and are also distinguished by a very good light-protection effectiveness, an extremely high UV-A and / or UV intensity. B-protection performance as well as an excellent water resistance with excellent skin care data. It was particularly surprising that can be completely dispensed with conventional film formers, which are used according to the prior art to increase the water resistance. The preparations according to the present invention are further characterized in that they leave no sticky or greasy impression when applied to the skin.

It was particularly surprising that the preparations in the sense of the present invention are also water-resistant to salt water (sea water, sweat) and even chlorinated water (swimming pool) and, accordingly, can also be termed sweat-resistant or chlorine-water resistant.

Hydrophobized acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers according to the invention are polymers which carry alkyl chains bound to the AMPS skeleton via PEG chains with 2 to 200, advantageously 5 to 25, ethoxy units, the chain length being selected from the range from C ₈ to C ₂₂ .

Polymers advantageous according to the invention are described, for example, in US Pat DE 100 29 462 A1 described.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the context of the present invention advantageously contain, based on the total weight of the preparations, 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, of one or more hydrophobized acrylamidomethylpropylsulfonic acid polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the preparations may preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, additionally one or more water phases and be present for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions , Such formulations may also preferably be microemulsions, sticks, so-called mousses, solid emulsions (i.e., emulsions which are stabilized by solids, eg Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the preparations may also be advantageous oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions.

Also (macroscopically) two-phase or multi-phase systems are advantageous according to the invention. "Two or more phases" in the sense of the present invention means that two or more phases are present separately stacked. It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, if at least one of the macroscopic Visible phases represents a (W / O, O / W, micro) emulsion. The emulsion is perceived as a phase in this (macroscopic) consideration, although it is well known to those skilled in the art that emulsions per se are formed from two or more phases homogenized with each other. The "emulsion phase" is long-term stable, so that there is no segregation or phase separation within the emulsion even over a longer period (months, years).
The macroscopically visible phases or layers can be advantageously emulsified - for example by shaking - in the short term to a homogeneous emulsion, which is not long-term stability, but rather segregates again over a period of minutes, hours or days to two or more layered layers , It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases represents a microemulsion and at least one other of the macroscopically visible phases represents an oil phase.

Emulsions, in particular microemulsions

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are O / W emulsions, particularly preferably sprayable O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions.

The droplet diameter of the ordinary "simple", ie non-multiple emulsions are in the range of about 1 micron to about 50 microns. Such "macroemulsions" are, without further coloring additives, milky white colored and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions" whose droplet diameters range from about 0.5 μm to about 1 μm are bluish white and opaque, again without coloring additives. Such "macroemulsions" usually have a high viscosity.

The droplet diameter of microemulsions according to the present invention, however, is in the range of about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are bluish white colored to translucent and usually low viscosity. The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that in the disperse phase, active ingredients can be much finer dispersed than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that they are sprayable due to their low viscosity. Become microemulsions used as cosmetics, corresponding products are characterized by high cosmetic elegance.

• ihre Lipophilie ist abhängig von der Temperatur, dergestalt daß durch Erhöhung der Temperatur die Lipophilie zunimmt und durch Senkung der Temperatur die Lipophilie des Emulgators abnimmt.

Vorteilhafte Emulgatoren A sind z. B. polyethoxilierte Fettsäuren (PEG-100 Stearat, PEG-20 Stearat, PEG-150 Laurath, PEG-8 Distearat und dergleichen) und/oder polyethoxilierte Fettalkohole (Cetearath-12, Cetearath-20, lsoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Laureth-9 etc.) und/oder Alkylpolyglycoside (Cetearyl Glycoside, Stearyl Glycoside, Palmityl Glycoside etc.).Particularly advantageous according to the invention are O / M microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of the so-called phase inversion temperature technology and contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A) which is selected from the group of emulsifiers having the following properties:

• their lipophilicity is dependent on the temperature, such that increasing the temperature increases the lipophilicity and decreases the lipophilicity of the emulsifier by lowering the temperature.

Advantageous emulsifiers A are z. Polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 Laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (Cetearath-12, Cetearath-20, Isoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Laureth -9 etc.) and / or alkylpolyglycosides (cetearyl glycosides, stearyl glycosides, palmityl glycosides etc.).

If the phase inversion is initiated essentially by varying the temperature, O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions are obtainable, the size of the oil droplets being determined essentially by the concentration of the emulsifier or emulsifiers used, such that a higher Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower Emulgatorkonzentration leads to larger droplets. The droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

For the purposes of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers not covered by the definition of the emulsifier A, for example in order to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention. Here can z. B. alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (especially cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), w / o emulsifiers (such as sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl -3 diisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dipolyhydroxystearate , PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8-phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, etc.).

Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions for the purposes of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the preparation being stabilized by at least one gelling agent and not necessarily containing emulsifiers, but one or more May contain emulsifiers.

Advantageous gelling agents for such formulations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 -alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.

Carbopols are also advantageous gelling agents for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Also the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, Ultrez 21, PVM / MA Decadien Crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide. Also advantageous are the thickener types Sepigel 305, Sepigel 501, Sepigel 502, Simulgel 600, Simulgel A, Simulgel EG, Simulgel EG-SL and Simulgel NT (all from Seppic). In addition, other gelling agents may be included on AMPS or AMPS copolymer base, e.g. Hostacerin AMPS (AMPS polymer), Aristoflex AVC (AMPS VP copolymer), Aristoflex HMB.

Further advantageous gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, cellulose derivatives, in particular cellulose ethers such as, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, starch and starch derivatives, hyaluronic acid and locust bean gum,

As possible (optional) emulsifiers, it is possible to use ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (especially PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surface-active substances.

• mindestens einen Silikonemulgator (W/S) mit einem HLB-Wert ≤ 8 und/oder mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert < 7 und
• mindestens einen O/W-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert > 10 enthalten.

Derartige Zubereitungen enthalten ferner mindestens 20 Gew.-% Lipide, wobei die Lipidphase vorteilhaft auch Silikonöle enthalten bzw. sogar ganz aus solchen bestehen kann.Furthermore, the very thin to sprayable emulsions may advantageously also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. Particularly advantageous are W / O or W / S emulsions, the

• at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value ≤ 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and
• contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10.

Such preparations also contain at least 20 wt .-% lipids, wherein the lipid phase may advantageously contain silicone oils or even consist entirely of such.

The silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of the alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (for example dimethicone copolyols which have been sold by Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABLL® B 8842, ABlL® B 8843, ABlL® B 8847, OJL B 8851, ABlL® B 8852, ABlL® B 8863, ABlL® B 8873 and ABlL® B 88183, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABlL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABlL® EM 97], Laurylmethicone copolyol [Dow Corning Ltd. / Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid], octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside [Wacker].

The one or more W / O emulsifiers having an HLB value <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl lanolate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, pentaerythrityl isostearate, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate mixed with hydroxystearate wax and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

The one or more O / W emulsifiers with an HLB value> 10 may advantageously be selected from the following group: glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 mixed with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate , PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100, Glyceryl Stearate Mixture with PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12 , Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol Copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate at, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-8 beeswax, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth -10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Also advantageous are aqueous-alcoholic solutions. They may contain from 0% to 90% by weight of ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions may advantageously contain solubilizers in the context of the present invention, such as. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

The preparations according to the present invention can also be advantageously used as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions with which in particular water-insoluble substrates such. As woven or non-woven cloths - moistened be used. Such impregnation solutions are preferably highly fluid, in particular sprayable (such as, for example, PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, aqueous solutions, etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s, in particular less than 1500 mPa.s s (measuring device: Haake Viskotester VT-02 at 25 ° C). With their help, for example, cosmetic sunscreens, wipes and the like are available, which is the combination of a soft, water-insoluble Represent materials with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution.

foams

Also particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention are self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

"Self-foaming", "foam-like", "post-foaming" or "foamable" are to be understood as preparations from which foams - either during the manufacturing process, either in the consumer's application or otherwise - by the entry of or several gases can be produced in principle. In such foams, the gas bubbles are (randomly) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), wherein the (foamed) preparations macroscopically need not necessarily have the appearance of a foam. According to the invention (foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations (hereinafter also referred to as foams for the sake of simplicity) may, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems of dispersed gases in liquids. However, the foam character can also be visible only under a (light) microscope, for example. In addition, foams according to the invention - in particular when the gas bubbles are too small to be detected under a light microscope - can also be recognized by the large volume increase of the system.

1. A. mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nicht neutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
2. B. mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäurester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
3. C. mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen besteht.

According to the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which comprises

1. A. at least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
2. B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and having a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
3. C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

The emulsifier or emulsifiers A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are completely or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as, for example, sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and also mono- and / or triethanolamine) , For example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates as well as myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.

The emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group; PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate , PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. For example, polyethoxylated stearic acid esters are particularly advantageous,

The co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably chosen according to the invention from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols representing the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after saponification of wool wax). Particularly preferred are cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol.

It is advantageous according to the invention to choose the weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) such as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another are rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3 can represent. Particularly preferred is a weight ratio of about 1: 1: 1.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the total amount of the emulsifiers A and B and the Coemulgators C from the range of 2 to 20 wt .-%, advantageous from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

Pickering / solids-stabilized emulsions

Also particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention are cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are stabilized only by finely divided solid particles. Such "emulsifier-free" emulsions are also referred to as Pickering emulsions.

In Pickering emulsions, the solid substance accumulates at the phase interface oil / water in the form of a layer, which prevents the disperse phases from flowing together. Of particular importance in this case are the surface properties of the solid particles, which should show both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties.

Advantageously, the stabilizing solid particles can also be surface-treated ("coated") to repel water, wherein an amphiphilic character of these solid particles is to be formed or retained. The surface treatment may consist in providing the solid particles with a thin hydrophobic or hydrophilic layer according to methods known per se.

The mean particle diameter of the microfine solid particles used as stabilizer is preferably chosen to be smaller than 100 μm, particularly advantageously smaller than 50 μm. It is essentially irrelevant in which form (platelets, rods, beads, etc.) or modification the solid particles used are present.

• Titandioxide (gecoatet und ungecoatet): z. B. Eusolex T-2000 von der Fa. Merck, Titandioxid MT-100 Z von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• Zinkoxide z. B. Z-Cote und Z-Cote HP1 von der BASF AG, MZ -300, MZ -500 und MZ-505M von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• Eisenoxide

Preferably, the microfine particulates are selected from the group of amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. Particularly advantageous are:

• Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): z. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation
• Zinc oxides e.g. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ -300, MZ -500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation
• iron oxides

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles are selected from the following group: boronitrides, starch derivatives (Tapioca Starch, sodium corn starch octynylsuccinate, etc.), talc, latex particles.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the solids-stabilized emulsions contain significantly less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers or are even completely emulsifier-free.

pencils

Also hydrous stick-shaped preparations are advantageous in the context of the present invention, which may also be in the form of W / O emulsions.

The cosmetic or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and serve for the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in the decorative cosmetics.

According to their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention may be used, for example, as a skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing or increasing foaming, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickening agents, moisturizing agents and / or moisturizing substances, fillers which improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other usual constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, diazolidinyl urea (trade name Germall II from ISP) or DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, under the trade name Glydant ™ from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (eg. those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie, p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol , Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preserving aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -Ethylendiamindisuccinat (EDDS), which is available, for example, under the trade name Octaquest from the company. Octel, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, which z. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company. Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic which u. a. Bayer AG under the trade names lminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications or conventional antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine) , Chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl , Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, as well as benzyl benzyl benzoate, rutinic acid and their derivatives, propyl gallate, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine) , Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and its derivatives as well as vitamin A (retinol) and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives or analogs represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation , to choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, where preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative, photochemical and / or radical stress.

Further particularly advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. As alpha-lipoic acid and its derivatives, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone or ubiquinol and its derivatives), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or β- Alanine and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2, provisional lNCl designation octadecenedioic acid).

Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin lesions as z. Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity). , Hypo and false pigmentation (eg, age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg, cracking), and the like). Furthermore, they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the present invention may advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol . Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and, in particular, one or more thickening agents which may be advantageously selected from the group silicon dioxide, Aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. As hyaluronic acid, starch and starch derivatives, xanthan gum, cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols [from the company. Bf. Goodrich]. Examples of advantageous carbopols are the types 980, 981, 984 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Also the ETD types 2001, 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, Ultrez 21, PVM / MA Decadien Crosspolymer (trade name Stabileze 06), polyglyceryl methacrylate and polyacrylamide. Further advantageous are thickener types Sepigel 305, Sepigel 501, Sepigel 502, Simulgel 600, Simulgel A, Simulgel EG, Simulgel EG-SL and Simulgel NT (all Seppic). In addition, other gel formers may be included on AMPS or AMPS copolymer base, such as Hostacerin AMPS (AMPS polymer), Aristoflex AVC (AMPS VP copolymer), Aristoflex HMB and inorganic thickeners based on hectorites and bentonites. The further thickening agents can be used individually or in combination.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyactone, erythrulose and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Further advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention may also contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Advantageous z. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadelphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester (under the Trade name insect Repellent® 3535 available from Merck). The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property, after application or

Distributing on the skin surface to reduce the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the horny layer.
Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 of the company SOLABIA SA is available. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride, etc.) and / or Aerosile® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Also advantageous according to the invention are z. As natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, ester waxes, hydrocarbon waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodecyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl, for example, that available under the trade name Cetiol CC in the company. Cognis.

It is further preferred that the oil component or components from the group lsoeikosan, neopentylglycoldiheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglycerylsuccinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C _12-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also z. Butyloctyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethylhexylnaphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H & R).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase may also advantageously contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and lsohexadecan. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms via oxygen atoms chain and / or net-like linked and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated , Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to as cyclomethicones according to INCI, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes, eg. As polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicones and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as various Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Examples of advantageous color pigments are titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous, the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971 to choose.

If the formulations according to the invention are present in the form of products which are applied to the face, it is favorable to use as the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone 3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5, 7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo-disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)) , Iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes such. As paprika extracts, β-carotene or cochineal.

1. 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.
   • ■ "Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und
   • ■ "Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
2. 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCI)
3. 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer / Metalloxid

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are formulations with a content of pearlescent pigments. Particularly preferred are the types of pearlescent pigments listed below:

1. 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
   • "Fish-silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
   • ■ "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
2. 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
3. 3rd layer substrate pigments: z. Mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. In particular vorteihaft z. For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.

Also advantageous, for example, are the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide: group Occupancy / layer thickness colour Silver-white pearlescent pigments TiO ₂ : 40-60 nm silver interference pigments TiO ₂ : 60-80 nm yellow TiO ₂ : 80-100 nm red TiO ₂ : 100-140 nm blue TiO ₂ : 120-160 nm green Color Luster Pigments Fe ₂ O ₃ bronze Fe ₂ O ₃ copper Fe ₂ O ₃ red Fe ₂ O ₃ rotviolett Fe ₂ O ₃ Red Green Fe ₂ O ₃ black combination pigments TiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ golds TiO ₂ / Cr ₂ O ₃ green TiO ₂ / Berlin Blue deep blue TiO ₂ / Carmine red

Particular preference is z. For example, available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona pearlescent pigments.

Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates except mica can be coated with other metal oxides such. As silica and the like. Advantageous z. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It may also be advantageous to completely dispense with a substrate such as mica. Particularly preferred are iron pearlescent pigments which are prepared without the use of mica. Such pigments are z. B. under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 available from BASF.

Also particularly advantageous are also effect pigments which are available under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, wherein different coating thicknesses generally cause different color effects. The total amount the dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to prepare cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of further UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. Also, UV protectants, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Also favorable are cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention may also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as further phase and which, in particular, can also be free of further oil components.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the context of the present invention are homomenthylsalicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (1NCl: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2) Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, 1NCl: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, 1NCl : Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (for example Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and also the barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Advantageously, dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), it being intended, for example, to form or retain a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se. The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or Alginic acid. These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Suitable zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names: trade name coating Manufacturer Z-Cote HP1 2% Dimethicone BASF Z Cote / BASF ZnO NDM 5% Dimethicone MR MZ-303S 3% methicone Tayca Corporation MZ-505S 5% methicone Tayca Corporation

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names: trade name coating Manufacturer MT-100TV Aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid Tayca Corporation MT-100Z Aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid Tayca Corporation Eusolex T-2000 Alumina / simethicone Merck KgaA Titanium Dioxide T805 (Uvinul TiO ₂ ) octyltrimethylsilane Degussa Tioveil AQ 10PG Alumina / silica Solaveil / Uniquema Eusolex T-aqua Water / alumina / sodium metaphosphate Merck

Further advantageous pigments are latex particles. Advantageous latex particles are those described in the following references: US 5,663,213 respectively. EP 0 761 201 , Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and z. B. under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" at the company. Rohm & Haas are available.

According to the present invention, UV-A filter substances according to the invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1) sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol® 1789 and by Merck under the tradename Eusolex® 9020.

• Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimldazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der lNCl-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der lNCl Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[22.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis- bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the 1 CNI designation Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the lNCl designation phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 available from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo - [22.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1,4-di (2 Benzo-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 90457) -82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

worin R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylreste mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist besonders vorteilhaft, die Reste R¹ und R² gleich zu wählen, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der verzweigten Alkylreste mit 3 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist ferner besonders vorteilhaft , wenn R³ einen unverzweigten oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere den 2-Ethylhexylrest darstellt,Advantageous UV filter substances are furthermore benzoxazole derivatives, which are distinguished by the following structural formula

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous if R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical,

auszeichnet und bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb® K2A erhältlich ist.Particularly preferred benzoxazole derivative is 2,4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5 triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula

and available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.

The benzoxazole derivative or derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative or derivatives in pigmentary, d. H. undissolved form - for example, in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm - are present.

worin

• R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.

Advantageous UV filter substances are also known as hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

• R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ -cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ -cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkyl radical.

und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone is the 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäurhexylester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is characterized by the following structure:

and Uvinul A Plus is available from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances are also so-called broadband filters, i. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

• 24-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (lNCl: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoäsäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (lNCl: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVlNUL® T 150 vertrieben wird;
• 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725-22-6).

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• 24-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (1NCl: bis-ethylhexyloxy-phenol methoxyphenyl triazine), which available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH;
• Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (1NCl: ethylhexyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150;
• 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter is also the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (1NCl: methylene bisphenol). Benztriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), which, for example available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

A further advantageous broadband filter is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl ] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the lNCl designation Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• 4-Methylbenzylidencampher ( bekannt unter dem Handelsnamen Eusolex 6300 bei der Firma Merck)
• 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (known under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck)
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• polymer-bound UV filters.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are z. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further advantageous light protection filter substance to be used is ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 T.

The list of said UV filters which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

The preparations according to the present invention comprise the substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount from Z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples: Examples 1-10: O / W emulsions

Example number 1 2 glyceryl stearate 2 Glyceryl stearate, self-emulsifying 5 PEG-40 Stearate myristate 1 behenyl stearyl 2 1 cetearyl cetyl alcohol 1 Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides) 2 shea butter 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 1 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 1 Ethylhexylkokosfettsäureester 3 octyldodecanol mineral oil 1 vaseline 2 cyclomethicone 4 1 dimethicone dicaprylyl 1 4 Dicarprylylcarbonat TiO ₂ ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 3 ethylhexyl triazone 1 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (Octocrylene) butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazine ethylhexyl salicylate 2 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor Alpha-glucosyl 0.1 0.1 Ubiquinone (Q10) tocopheryl acetate Citric acid, sodium salt 0.1 sodium ascorbyl Trisodium EDTA 0.1 Iminodisuccinate, sodium salt 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.6 0.3 hexamidine diisethionate 0.04 diazolidinyl 0.25 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl-hydantoin (DMDM hydantoin) 0.2 iodopropynylbutylcarbamate 0.1 Denatured ethanol 2 Xanthan gum Polyacrylic acid (carbomer) Ammoniumpolyacryloyldimethyltaurate PVP / hexadecenes copolymer 0.5 Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.2 0.5 Aluminum starch Octenylsuccinate glycerin 8th 5 butylene 2 1 water and / or oil soluble dyes 0.05 Fillers / Additives (Distarch Phosphate, 0.1 1 SiO ₂ , BHT, talc, aluminum stearate) Perfume q.s. q.s. water Ad 100 Ad 100 Example number 6 7 9 Glyceryl stearate, self-emulsifying 2.5 PEG-40 Stearate 1 Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose 3 sorbitan 1 Polyethylene glycol (21) stearyl ether (Steareth-21) Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2) cetearylglucoside 2 stearic acid myristate 1 1 behenyl 2 stearyl 3 cetearyl 2 cetyl alcohol 1 Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides) 1 shea butter C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4 2 2 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 1 2 3 Hydrogenated polydecene 1 1 Ethylhexylkokosfettsäureester octyldodecanol 1 mineral oil vaseline 1 Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) 4 3 dimethylpolysiloxane (Dimethicone) dicaprylyl Dicarprylylcarbonat 2 3 polydecene 4 TiO ₂ 1 ZnO 2 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 3 5 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate 5 (Octocrylene) ethylhexyl triazone 2 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 0.5 Until Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazine 1 2 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 ethylhexyl 2 Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4 alpha-glucosyl rutin 0.1 tocopheryl acetate 1 1 biotin ascorbic acid Trisodium EDTA 0.1 iminodisuccinate 0.2 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.4 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.1 0.4 hexamidine diisethionate diazolidinyl 0.2 0.2 0.1 iodopropynyl butylcarbamate Denatured ethanol 5 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether (octoxyglycerol) 0.4 Xanthan gum Polyacrylic acid (carbomer) Tricontayl PVP 0.3 Polyurethane-4 (Avalure UR-445) Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.5 0.7 0.2 Aluminum starch Octenylsuccinate 1 glycerin 10 5 4 butylene 2 Water and / or oil soluble dyes Additives (distarch phosphate, SiO ₂ , talc ₎ 12:03 0.1 3 kum, BHT aluminum stearate) Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100

Example 11: W / O cream

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 5.0 Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5 cetearyl 2 cetyl alcohol 2 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 8th Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 6 octyldodecanol 5 Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) 2 lactic acid 5 Citric acid, sodium salt 0.5 TiO2 1 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 ethylhexyl triazone 1 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 ethylhexyl 2 tocopheryl acetate 2 phenoxyethanol 0.1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyls (paraben) 0.1 glycerin 7.5 Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.2 Fillers (distarch phosphate, SiO ₂ , talc, aluminum stearate) 0.2 Perfume q.s. water Ad 100

Example 12: Hydrodispersion / Gel Cream

cetyl alcohol 2 shea butter 1 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 2 octyldodecanol 1 Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) 5 Dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) 1 polydecene 2 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 3 Until Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazin 2 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 7 Diethylhexybutamidotriazon 1 sodium ascorbyl 0.05 lminodisuccinat 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyls (paraben) 0.4 Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.3 Crosslinked alkyl acrylate (alkyl acrylate cospolymer) 0.1 glycerin 5 Perfume q.s. water Ad 100

Example Recipes Foundations

ingredients 1 3 PEG-30 stearate 1.5 Gylcerylstearat 0.5 Ceteareth-20 1 Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose stearate 3.5 Sorbinsäurestearat 1.5 stearic acid 2 glyceryl stearate cetyl alcohol 0.5 1.0 lecithin Veegum K = Mg-AI silicates 0.8 Xanthan gum Carbomer hydroxyethyl 0.1 Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.1 0.2 Aluminum starch Octenylsuccinate Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 3 dicaprylyl 3 octyldodecanol 3 dimethicone 3 3 cyclomethicone 3 C12-C15 alkyl benzoates 2 cetearyl 2 squalane 1 isopropyl palmitate 1 PPG -15 stearyl ether 2 Hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2 stearyl 9 Acetylated lanolin oil 2 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 2 TiO ₂ 2 ethylhexyl triazone Until Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazin 1 0.5 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl acrylate (Octocrylene) 3 biotin silicone 0.8 Nylon-12 5 lauroyllysine 0.5 kaolin 1 iron oxides 2.4 2.6 Titanium dioxide 5.6 4.5 Interference pigments Pigment Low Luster ZnO 1 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl 2000B) 2 EDTA 0.6 1 glycerin 5 5 Phenoxyethanol and paraben (Phenonip) 0.5 Imidazonidinylharnstoff 0.3 Neutralizer q.s. q.s. Perfume, antioxidants q.s. q.s. water ad 100 ad 100

Sample Recipes Pens

Sunscreen stick Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 8th octyldodecanol Carpylyl carbonates dicaprylyl paraffin oil Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 8th C12-15 alkyl benzoates isopopyl palmitate jojoba oil 1 lanolin simethicone PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2 PEG-30 di-polyhydroxystearates 2.5 Sucrose distearate Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 Cetyl palmitate C16-36 alkyl stearates 1 C20-40 alkyl stearates carnauba beeswax candelilla PVP / eicosene copolymer 1 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1 micronized titanium dioxide 4 4-methylbenzylidene camphor 3.6 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 3.6 Nylon-12 Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) 3 boron nitride 3 Lauroyl lysine Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl) 1 Silica LDP 1 PTFE PMMA Titanium dioxide Al ₂ O ₃ coated iron oxides Hydrophobized AMPS copolymer 0.4 ultramarine pearlescent Rokonsal S1 Germall II Glydant Plus 0.3 JM Acti Care glycerin 5 Perfume, BHT, neutralizing agent, sequestering agent q.s. water ad 100

Claims (7)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising

   a) at least one UV filter substance in a total amount of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, and

   b) at least one polymeric thickener selected from the group of hydrophobicized acrylamidomethylpropylsulphonic acid polymers, the polymers carrying alkyl chains bonded to the AMPS framework via PEG chains having 2 to 200 ethoxy units, the chain length of the alkyl chains being chosen from the range from C₆ to C₂₂,

   characterized in that it comprises, as UV-A filter substance, one or more UV-A filter substances selected from the group of dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine).
2. Preparation according to Claim 1, characterized in that the formulation is an emulsion or a hydrodispersion.
3. Preparation according to Claim 2, characterized in that the emulsion is an O/W emulsion.
4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the formulation is a microemulsion.
5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises - based on its total weight - 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, of one or more hydrophobicized acrylamidomethylpropylsulphonic acid polymers.
6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, as UV-A filter substance, one or more water-soluble UV-A filter substances, particularly water-soluble UV-A filter substances selected from the group phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulphonic acid and/or 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulpho-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene and/or their salts, particularly the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts and/or the corresponding 10-sulphato compounds, in particular the bis-sodium salt of phenylene-1,4-bis(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulphonic acid, and terephthalidenedicamphorsulphonic acid or its salts.
7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one UV filter substance selected from the following group: water-soluble UV filter substances, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature, organic and/or inorganic pigments, broadband filters and/or benzotriazoles.