EP1461060A2 - Cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted for murumuru seeds - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted for murumuru seeds

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Publication number
EP1461060A2
EP1461060A2 EP03709853A EP03709853A EP1461060A2 EP 1461060 A2 EP1461060 A2 EP 1461060A2 EP 03709853 A EP03709853 A EP 03709853A EP 03709853 A EP03709853 A EP 03709853A EP 1461060 A2 EP1461060 A2 EP 1461060A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
agents
composition
murumuru
oil
seeds
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP03709853A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Antoine Piccirelli
Philippe Msika
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoires Expanscience SA
Original Assignee
Laboratoires Expanscience SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoires Expanscience SA filed Critical Laboratoires Expanscience SA
Publication of EP1461060A2 publication Critical patent/EP1461060A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88—Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/889—Arecaceae, Palmae or Palmaceae (Palm family), e.g. date or coconut palm or palmetto
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for treating the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair.
  • Another subject of the invention is the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as an excipient in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, as well as the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as active principle, advantageously as a moisturizing agent, in a cosmetic composition.
  • the invention also relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as a food or as a food supplement.
  • the Murumuru also known as the Astrocaryum murumuru
  • the Palm trees of the genus Astrocaryum include about fifty solitary species, present in tropical America, from Mexico to the south of Brazil.
  • the Astrocaryum murumuru species is spontaneous and widespread in the Amazon, especially in the State of Para. This species of palm trees is particularly fond of moist soils, riversides and swamp forests known as "Igapos" in the lower Amazon (Belém region). It is found in particular on the island of Marajo.
  • the Murumuru has a stem (like a "trunk"), with a diameter of 20 to 30 cm, covered with strong horizontal spines, dense and aggressive, 12 to 15 cm long.
  • the leaves are 3 to 4 meters long. They are pinnate and have lanceolate leaflets, dark green on the underside and silvery above. The flowers are born in the axils of old dead leaves. They are monoecious and united on the same spadix.
  • the fruits are grouped in the form of clusters. Their number can reach 300 per tree. They are drupes of oval to piriform shape. When ripe, the color of the fruit, quite bright, is yellow or orange.
  • the fruit contains a bitter, edible yellow pulp, which decomposes quickly when the fruit falls to the ground, as well as a seed traditionally known as "nuts".
  • the latter conical in shape, includes a woody shell and a white almond.
  • the Murumuru seed represents around 33% of the fruit and its lipid content, by hexane extraction, is around 27%.
  • the oils obtained from seeds of Astrocaryum murumuru have a consistency of "butter", solid at room temperature, while the oils from pulps are fluid, which translates into a difference in chemical composition between the two types of oils, particularly with regard to the distribution of fatty acids.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds will be designated Murumuru butter in the context of the present invention.
  • Murumuru butter is a butter with a shorter fatty chain (C ⁇ 2 -C ⁇ 4 ) than shea or cocoa (mainly C ⁇ 8 ). This difference in fatty acid composition leads to differences in their properties.
  • Murumuru butter is much more stable than shea butter, the peroxide index evolving much less quickly with Murumuru butter during accelerated aging tests of the thin layer type (butter deposited on a glass wall, in the form of a thin film and subjected to 50 ° C, to a current of hot air).
  • Table 1 shows the evolution of the peroxide index during an accelerated aging test of the thin layer type with Murumuru butter and with shea butter.
  • Murumuru seeds containing the total lipids of these seeds, has already been used for the preparation of detergents and semi-synthetic emulsifiers (FR 971 322), but it has never been used in cosmetic formulations or pharmaceuticals. Indeed, Murumuru oil has already been used, after saponification of the fatty acids contained in this oil, to manufacture solid soaps (FR 999 573), but the patent application FR 999 573 does not specify whether it acts of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds or oil extracted from Murumuru pulps.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds in particular the oil whose fatty acids are in the form of triglycerides, and not in the form of salts, has never been used in cosmetic formulations, nor in pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds, in particular the oil, all of the fatty acids of which are in the form of triglycerides, could be used in a cosmetic composition, advantageously administered externally. topically, to act in particular as a care product, body hygiene product, makeup product or deodorant product for the skin, mucous membranes, nails or even the hair, in particular as a moisturizing agent.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds could be used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, advantageously as an excipient, in substitution for synthetic short-chain triglycerides (capric and caprylic), triglycerides ethoxylated, hydrogenated soybean oils, lipophilic matrices in general which are used as excipient bases in suppositories, as excipients for filling conventional capsules and capsules (vegetable or gelatin-based), or even oily gels.
  • the oils extracted from Murumuru seeds turn out to be natural compounds, cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable, non-aggressive or toxic for the skin, hypoallergenic, soothing, hydrating and anti-inflammatory for the skin.
  • Murumuru oils are commercially available and can be used crude or refined in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.
  • the present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
  • the present invention also relates to a pharmaceutical composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
  • the oil from the Murumuru seeds can be obtained according to the method consisting in extracting the total lipids from the Murumuru seeds previously dried and ground, using a solvent for the oils, then evaporating said solvent.
  • the Murumuru seeds according to the present invention can thus be ground, for example using a cylinder or hammer mill.
  • the solvent for oils, used to extract the total lipids from the seeds forming the oil is a conventional organic solvent for extracting lipids.
  • the solvent is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of aliphatic alkanes, aromatic alkanes, aliphatic alcohols and their halogen derivatives. Even more advantageously according to the present invention, the organic solvent is hexane.
  • the extraction of total lipids from Murumuru seeds is advantageously carried out by soxhlet extraction which is a technology well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the organic solvent is evaporated, preferably by evaporation under vacuum.
  • the oil from the Murumuru seeds can be obtained according to the process consisting in extracting the lipids from the Murumuru seeds by mechanical pressure of the seeds when cold, advantageously using a continuous screw press, to lead, after filtration, to virgin oils of first pressure.
  • all of the fatty acids in the oil of Murumuru seeds are in the form of triglycerides.
  • in the form of triglycerides is meant in the sense of the present invention in particular the fatty acids which have not been saponified and which are not thus found in the form of salts.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used as an active principle or as an excipient in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention.
  • the oil is advantageously used as an excipient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, but it can also be advantageously used as active principle, in particular as a moisturizing agent, in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds is used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition as an excipient, as a vehicle, or as an ingredient for excipient, in substitution for the short chain synthetic triglycerides (capric and caprylic), ethoxylated triglycerides, hydrogenated soybean oils, or lipophilic matrices.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used as a fatty support in various cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, advantageously containing at least one liposoluble active principle.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used as an excipient base in suppositories, as an excipient for filling conventional soft capsules and capsules (vegetable or gelatin-based), or as an excipient in oily gels, sticks such as lipsticks or so-called moisturizing or sun lipsticks, cosmetic products such as balms, ointments, ointments, creams or even oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil, multiple emulsions, transparent emulsions, PI T. emulsions, sprays, emulsions without emulsifier (stable dispersions), makeup products for the cheeks, eyelashes, nails, or eyes.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used in crude form or in refined form in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention.
  • refining is meant within the meaning of the present invention, the unitary operations for the purification of lipids of plant origin well known from those skilled in the art, among which mention may be made in particular of chemical neutralization, degumming, discoloration, deodorization and refrigeration.
  • the oil is present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 50%, preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight. cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.
  • the oil is present at a concentration of between 5 and 30%, preferably between 7 and 30%, and even more preferably between 10 and 30% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to the present invention is advantageously in oily form, in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, in the form of an aqueous or oily gel, in the form of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, or in the form of an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, the spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or better lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type.
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition is formulated to be administered by topical, oral, sublingual, subcutaneous, intramuscular, intravenous, intratracheal, intranasal, intranasal, transdermal or rectal route.
  • said composition when the composition is formulated to be administered topically, said composition, which can be more or less fluid, is in the form of white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, ointment, serum, paste, foam, aerosol or stick.
  • composition when the composition is formulated to be administered orally, said composition can be in the form of tablets, capsules, powders, granules, solutions or even oral suspensions.
  • the composition according to the present invention may also contain the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, chelating agents, odor absorbers and coloring matters.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in cosmetics or in pharmaceuticals, and for example from 0.01% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration.
  • the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • mineral oils other oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil, plum oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils , silicone oils and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers).
  • Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, fatty acids, or waxes such as beeswax can also be used as fats according to the present invention.
  • emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as PEG-40 stearate or PEG-100 stearate, esters of fatty acid and of polyol, such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents which can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer)
  • acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • polyacrylamides such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition also contains at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic active agents, lipophilic active agents, agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation, antibacterial agents, agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes, antifungal agents, soothing agents, anti-pruritic agents, keratolytic agents, anti-free radical agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-dandruff agents, agents with anti-acne activity, anti-irritant agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, UVA and UVB filters, matting agents, light-reflecting pigments, active agents wrinkles, anti-glycation agents, Heat Shock Protein modulators and enzyme inhibitors.
  • hydrophilic active agents e.g., lipophilic active agents, agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation
  • antibacterial agents agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes
  • lipophilic active agents which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential oils, salicylic acid and its derivatives.
  • composition according to the present invention may also contain other active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions.
  • active agents there may be mentioned in particular agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation such as retinoic acid and its isomers, retinol and its esters, vitamin D and its derivatives, phyto -estrogens and kojic acid; antibacterial agents such as octanediol and conventional preservatives (quaternary ammonium, ...); agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes such as certain sugar derivatives; antifungal agents, in particular compounds belonging to the class of imidazoles or their salts, compounds of the allylamine family, glycine derivatives (sodium hydroxymethylglycinate for example), piroctone olamine or even octopirox; soothing agents such as salicylic acid, lupeol, allantoin, blueberry water, Silanedi
  • anti-pruritic agents such as glycine
  • keratolytic agents such as alpha and beta-hydroxycarboxylic or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, acid citric and in general fruit acids
  • anti-free radical agents such as alpha-tocopherol or its esters, carotenoids, isoflavones, OPCs, flavonoids, superoxide dismutases, certain metal chelators or ascorbic acid and its esters
  • anti-seborrheic agents such as retinoids, sabal, Pygeum Africanum extract, zinc salts.
  • anti-dandruff agents such as octopirox, zinc pyrithione or piroctone olamine ; agents having anti-acne activity such as retinoids, retinol, retinaldehyde, vitamins PP, benzoyl peroxides, erythromycin; anti-irritant agents such as thermal waters, polysaccharides, in particular with regard to irritant compounds possibly present in the compositions of the present invention; moisturizers such as polyols (eg glycerin); vitamins (for example D-panthenol or vitamins C, D, B6); anti-inflammatory agents such as thermal waters, polysaccharides; UVA and UVB filters such as organic and mineral screens; matting or coloring agents and light-reflecting pigments such as mixtures of titanium and mica or iron oxide; anti-wrinkle active agents such as retinol and its derivatives (
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that a composition is administered to a human being cosmetic according to the present invention for treating the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair.
  • the cosmetic composition is used as a care product, body hygiene product, makeup product or deodorant product for the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair.
  • the composition can be used as a hydrating product or as a protective product against insensible water loss from the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used to treat dry skin, dry hair or dry lips.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also be advantageously used to treat chapped skin or lips.
  • the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can thus advantageously be incorporated into compositions for the skin or the mucous membranes, such as moisturizing compositions, since the oil has a water retaining power and thus prevents water from s' evaporate from the skin.
  • the Murumuru oil according to the present invention can also advantageously be used in hair shampoos or conditioners, as well as in nail varnishes, intended to improve the shine and the flexibility respectively of the hair and the nails or also to revitalize respectively hair and nails.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can thus be presented in particular in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion, a hydrating shower gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair conditioner. , a detangling balm, a moisturizing lip stick, or even a lipstick or a make-up product for the face and nails.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as an excipient in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as active principle, advantageously as agent moisturizer or protective agent against insensible water loss from the skin, in a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as a food or as a food supplement.
  • Example 1 Compositions of Crude Oil and Refined Oil Extracted from Murumuru Seeds
  • Example 2 Process for Refining Crude Oil Extracted from Murumuru Seeds
  • the dried product is then discolored at 90 ° C, for 30 minutes, in the presence of 1% bleaching earth.
  • Murumuru butter is finally deodorized in a thick layer type deodorizer, by injection of hot steam, under a vacuum of between 3 and 5 mbar, and at a temperature of 180-90 ° C for 5 hours.
  • the object of this study is to evaluate the effect of a refined Murumuru butter (designated by MR), obtained according to the method of Example 2, on the insensible water loss of the skin, after a single application of the butter in 10 adult female volunteers.
  • MR Murumuru butter
  • the entire study was carried out under specific, controlled and identical environmental conditions of temperature and relative humidity for each of the volunteers.
  • the measurements were carried out in a fully air-conditioned room equipped with humidity regulators (dehumidifier and humidifier).
  • the ambient temperature was maintained at 22 + 2 ° C and the relative humidity between 45 and 55%, thanks to a microprocessor connected to temperature-humidity sensors-transmitters (C.2AI KIMO).
  • C.2AI KIMO temperature-humidity sensors-transmitters
  • the stability of these parameters was continuously monitored and printed using a computerized multi-channel recorder (Eurotherm Chessell).
  • the measurement of the Insensible Water Loss was carried out using a Tewameter TM TM 210 (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH). This device measures the rate of evaporation of water diffusing through the stratum corneum (in g / m 2 .h), as well as the relative humidity of the ambient air (%) and the temperature.
  • the device includes 2 elements:
  • P partial pressure of water vapor in the air (mm Hg)
  • x sensor - skin distance
  • dm / dt represents the evaporation rate, proportional to the water vapor pressure gradient dp / dx measured by the 2 sensors of the device.
  • Zones 5 skin zones approximately 30 cm (6 x 5 cm) from the outside of the legs, delimited between the knee and the ankle (1 zone treated by product and a control zone to which no product has been applied) .
  • the control zone and the 4 treated zones were were determined on the right and left legs, according to a randomization.
  • the measurements were carried out, for each time of the study and for each zone, on a 10 cm sub-zone (one sub-zone per measurement time), after a delicate wiping with paper. cellulose wadding.
  • Methods of application delicate massage, uniformly, using a fingertip, to ensure the best possible penetration of the product.
  • Measurement time T0 (before application), Tl hour, T4 hours and T8 hours.
  • the following statistical analyzes: > analysis of variance, followed by a test of multiple comparisons (ANOVA and L.S.D., significance: p ⁇ 0.05) in case of normality of the distributions and homogeneity of the variances;
  • non-parametric Friedman test associated with the Wilcoxon test (“two-tail”, significance: p ⁇ 0.05) in the event of non-homogeneity of the variances or non-normality of the distributions; allowed to compare: - the values obtained after the application compared to the initial values, for each of the treated and control zones;
  • V (Tx) value at a given time on a given treated area
  • V (T0) initial value (before application) on the same treated area.
  • V (Tx) value at a given time on a given treated area
  • V (T0) initial value (before application) on the same treated area
  • V (Tx *) value at the same time T as Tx, on the control area
  • V (T0 *) initial value (before application) in the control area.
  • % percentage of variation compared to the initial measurement, on the same zone
  • P% percentage of variation compared to the initial measurement, on the same zone and compared to the values of the control zone, at the same time of the study .

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds. The invention also concerns a cosmetic treatment method for the skin, the mucosa, the nails or the hair. The invention further concerns the use of Murumuru seed oil extract as carrier in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, as well as the use of Murumuru seed oil extract as active principle, advantageously as hydrating agent, in a cosmetic composition. The invention finally concerns the use of Murumuru seed oil extract as food or food supplement.

Description

« Composition cosmétique contenant une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru, son utilisation cosmétique, et composition pharmaceutique contenant une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru »"Cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds, its cosmetic use, and pharmaceutical composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds"
La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique contenant une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru. L'invention se rapporte également à une méthode de traitement cosmétique pour traiter la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles ou les cheveux. L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru à titre d'excipient dans une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique, ainsi que l'utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru à titre de principe actif, avantageusement à titre d'agent hydratant, dans une composition cosmétique. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru comme aliment ou comme complément alimentaire.The present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for treating the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair. Another subject of the invention is the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as an excipient in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, as well as the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as active principle, advantageously as a moisturizing agent, in a cosmetic composition. The invention also relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as a food or as a food supplement.
Le Murumuru (ou Muru-muru), encore connu sous le nom de Astrocaryum murumuru, est un palmier de 3 à 6, voir 10 mètres de hauteur. Les palmiers du genre Astrocaryum comprennent une cinquantaine d'espèces solitaires, présentes en Amérique tropicale, depuis le Mexique jusqu'au sud du Brésil. L'espèce Astrocaryum murumuru est spontanée et répandue en Amazonie, tout particulièrement dans l'Etat du Para. Cette espèce de palmiers affectionne tout particulièrement les sols humides, le bord des rivières ainsi que les forêts marécageuses dites "d'Igapos" du bas Amazone (région de Belèm). On la rencontre notamment dans l'île de Marajo.The Murumuru (or Muru-muru), also known as the Astrocaryum murumuru, is a palm tree from 3 to 6, even 10 meters in height. The palm trees of the genus Astrocaryum include about fifty solitary species, present in tropical America, from Mexico to the south of Brazil. The Astrocaryum murumuru species is spontaneous and widespread in the Amazon, especially in the State of Para. This species of palm trees is particularly fond of moist soils, riversides and swamp forests known as "Igapos" in the lower Amazon (Belèm region). It is found in particular on the island of Marajo.
Le Murumuru a une tige (à l'aspect d'un "tronc"), d'un diamètre de 20 à 30 cm, couverte de fortes épines horizontales, denses et agressives, longues de 12 à 15 cm. Les feuilles ont une longueur de 3 à 4 mètres. Elles sont pennées et comportent des folioles lancéolées, vert foncées à la face inférieure et argentées sur le dessus. Les fleurs naissent à l'aisselle des vieilles feuilles mortes. Elles sont monoïques et réunies sur le même spadice. Les fruits sont regroupés sous forme de grappes. Leur nombre peut atteindre 300 par arbre. Il s'agit de drupes de forme ovale à piriforme. A maturité, la couleur du fruit, assez vive, est jaune ou orangée. Le fruit renferme une pulpe jaune amère et comestible, qui se décompose rapidement lorsque le fruit tombe sur le sol, ainsi qu'une graine traditionnellement dénommée "noix". Cette dernière, de forme conique, comprend une coque ligneuse et une amande de couleur blanche. La graine du Murumuru représente environ 33 % du fruit et sa teneur en lipides, par extraction à l'hexane, est de l'ordre de 27 %. La teneur en lipides de l'amande, par extraction à l'éther de pétrole, est de l'ordre de 43 %.The Murumuru has a stem (like a "trunk"), with a diameter of 20 to 30 cm, covered with strong horizontal spines, dense and aggressive, 12 to 15 cm long. The leaves are 3 to 4 meters long. They are pinnate and have lanceolate leaflets, dark green on the underside and silvery above. The flowers are born in the axils of old dead leaves. They are monoecious and united on the same spadix. The fruits are grouped in the form of clusters. Their number can reach 300 per tree. They are drupes of oval to piriform shape. When ripe, the color of the fruit, quite bright, is yellow or orange. The fruit contains a bitter, edible yellow pulp, which decomposes quickly when the fruit falls to the ground, as well as a seed traditionally known as "nuts". The latter, conical in shape, includes a woody shell and a white almond. The Murumuru seed represents around 33% of the fruit and its lipid content, by hexane extraction, is around 27%. The lipid content of the almond, by extraction with petroleum ether, is around 43%.
Une distinction très nette apparaît selon la nature de la matière première oléagineuse mise en oeuvre, la pulpe ou bien la graine du fruit : les huiles issues de graines tf Astrocaryum murumuru ont une consistance de "beurre", solide à température ambiante, tandis que les huiles issues des pulpes sont fluides, ce qui traduit une différence de composition chimique entre les deux types d'huiles, notamment en ce qui concerne la répartition des acides gras. L'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru sera désignée beurre de Murumuru dans le cadre de la présente invention.A very clear distinction appears according to the nature of the oleaginous raw material used, the pulp or the seed of the fruit: the oils obtained from seeds of Astrocaryum murumuru have a consistency of "butter", solid at room temperature, while the oils from pulps are fluid, which translates into a difference in chemical composition between the two types of oils, particularly with regard to the distribution of fatty acids. The oil extracted from Murumuru seeds will be designated Murumuru butter in the context of the present invention.
Sur le plan chimique, le beurre de Murumuru est un beurre à chaîne grasse plus courte (Cι2-Cι4) que le karité ou le cacao (majoritairement en Cι8). Cette différence de composition en acide gras entraîne des différences au niveau de leurs propriétés. Ainsi, en terme de stabilité oxydative, le beurre de Murumuru est nettement plus stable que le beurre de karité, l'indice de peroxyde évoluant en effet beaucoup moins vite avec le beurre de Murumuru lors de tests de vieillissement accéléré de type couche mince (beurre déposé sur une paroi en verre, sous la forme d'un film mince et soumis à 50°C, à un courant d'air chaud). Le tableau 1 ci-dessous présente l'évolution de l'indice de peroxyde au cours d'un test de vieillissement accéléré de type couche mince avec du beurre de Murumuru et avec du beurre de karité.Chemically, Murumuru butter is a butter with a shorter fatty chain (Cι 2 -Cι 4 ) than shea or cocoa (mainly Cι 8 ). This difference in fatty acid composition leads to differences in their properties. Thus, in terms of oxidative stability, Murumuru butter is much more stable than shea butter, the peroxide index evolving much less quickly with Murumuru butter during accelerated aging tests of the thin layer type (butter deposited on a glass wall, in the form of a thin film and subjected to 50 ° C, to a current of hot air). Table 1 below shows the evolution of the peroxide index during an accelerated aging test of the thin layer type with Murumuru butter and with shea butter.
Tableau 1 : Evolution de l'indice de peroxyde au cours d'un test de vieillissement accéléré de type couche mince En outre, en terme de propriété sensorielle, le beurre de murumuru est moins glissant à l'application que le beurre de karité, et la sensation de gras est nettement moins forte qu'en présence du karité.Table 1: Evolution of the peroxide index during an accelerated aging test of the thin layer type In addition, in terms of sensory property, murumuru butter is less slippery on application than shea butter, and the feeling of fat is much less strong than in the presence of shea.
L'huile des graines de Murumuru, contenant les lipides totaux de ces graines, a déjà été utilisée pour la préparation de détergents et d'émulsifiants hémi-synthétiques (FR 971 322), mais elle n'a jamais été utilisée dans des formulations cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques. En effet, l'huile de Murumuru a déjà été utilisée, après saponification des acides gras contenus dans cette huile, pour fabriquer des savons solides (FR 999 573), mais la demande de brevet FR 999 573 ne précise pas s'il s'agit d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru ou d'huile extraite de pulpes de Murumuru. Ainsi, l'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru, notamment l'huile dont les acides gras se trouvent sous forme de triglycérides, et non sous forme de sels, n'a jamais été utilisée dans des formulations cosmétiques, ni dans des formulations pharmaceutiques. Or, la demanderesse a découvert de manière surprenante que l'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru, notamment l'huile dont l'ensemble des acides gras se trouvent sous forme de triglycérides, pouvait être utilisée dans une composition cosmétique, avantageusement administrée par voie externe topique, pour agir notamment en tant que produit de soin, de produit d'hygiène corporelle, de produit de maquillage ou de produit déodorant pour la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles ou encore les cheveux, en particulier en tant qu'agent hydratant.The oil of Murumuru seeds, containing the total lipids of these seeds, has already been used for the preparation of detergents and semi-synthetic emulsifiers (FR 971 322), but it has never been used in cosmetic formulations or pharmaceuticals. Indeed, Murumuru oil has already been used, after saponification of the fatty acids contained in this oil, to manufacture solid soaps (FR 999 573), but the patent application FR 999 573 does not specify whether it acts of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds or oil extracted from Murumuru pulps. Thus, the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds, in particular the oil whose fatty acids are in the form of triglycerides, and not in the form of salts, has never been used in cosmetic formulations, nor in pharmaceutical formulations. However, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds, in particular the oil, all of the fatty acids of which are in the form of triglycerides, could be used in a cosmetic composition, advantageously administered externally. topically, to act in particular as a care product, body hygiene product, makeup product or deodorant product for the skin, mucous membranes, nails or even the hair, in particular as a moisturizing agent.
La demanderesse a également découvert de manière surprenante que l'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru pouvait être utilisée dans une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique, avantageusement en tant qu'excipient, en substitution des triglycérides synthétiques à chaînes courtes (caprique et caprylique), des triglycérides éthoxylés, des huiles de soja hydrogénées, des matrices lipophiles en général qui sont utilisés comme bases excipients dans les suppositoires, comme excipients de remplissage des capsules et gélules classiques (végétales ou à base de gélatine), ou encore les gels huileux. En outre, les huiles extraites des graines de Murumuru s'avèrent être des composés naturels, cosmétiquement et pharmaceutiquement acceptables, non agressifs ni toxiques pour la peau, hypoallergéniques, apaisants, hydratants et anti-inflammatoires pour la peau. De plus, les huiles de Murumuru sont disponibles commercialement et peuvent être utilisées brutes ou raffinées dans des compositions cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques.The Applicant has also surprisingly discovered that the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds could be used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, advantageously as an excipient, in substitution for synthetic short-chain triglycerides (capric and caprylic), triglycerides ethoxylated, hydrogenated soybean oils, lipophilic matrices in general which are used as excipient bases in suppositories, as excipients for filling conventional capsules and capsules (vegetable or gelatin-based), or even oily gels. In addition, the oils extracted from Murumuru seeds turn out to be natural compounds, cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable, non-aggressive or toxic for the skin, hypoallergenic, soothing, hydrating and anti-inflammatory for the skin. In addition, Murumuru oils are commercially available and can be used crude or refined in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.
La présente invention a ainsi pour objet une composition cosmétique contenant une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru.The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
La présente invention a également pour objet une composition pharmaceutique contenant une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru.The present invention also relates to a pharmaceutical composition containing an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier de la présente invention, l'huile des graines de Murumuru peut être obtenue selon le procédé consistant à extraire les lipides totaux des graines de Murumuru préalablement séchées et broyées, à l'aide d'un solvant des huiles, puis à évaporer ledit solvant. Les graines de Murumuru selon la présente invention peuvent ainsi être broyées par exemple à l'aide d'un broyeur à cylindre ou à marteaux. Le solvant des huiles, utilisé pour extraire les lipides totaux des graines formant l'huile, est un solvant organique classique d'extraction de lipides. Le solvant est avantageusement choisi dans le groupe constitué par les alcanes aliphatiques, les alcanes aromatiques, les alcools aliphatiques et leurs dérivés halogènes. De manière encore plus avantageuse selon la présente invention, le solvant organique est l'hexane. L'extraction des lipides totaux des graines de Murumuru est avantageusement réalisée par une extraction au soxhlet qui est une technologie bien connue de l'homme de métier. Après extraction des lipides contenus dans les graines de Murumuru, le solvant organique est évaporé, de préférence par évaporation sous vide.In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the oil from the Murumuru seeds can be obtained according to the method consisting in extracting the total lipids from the Murumuru seeds previously dried and ground, using a solvent for the oils, then evaporating said solvent. The Murumuru seeds according to the present invention can thus be ground, for example using a cylinder or hammer mill. The solvent for oils, used to extract the total lipids from the seeds forming the oil, is a conventional organic solvent for extracting lipids. The solvent is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of aliphatic alkanes, aromatic alkanes, aliphatic alcohols and their halogen derivatives. Even more advantageously according to the present invention, the organic solvent is hexane. The extraction of total lipids from Murumuru seeds is advantageously carried out by soxhlet extraction which is a technology well known to those skilled in the art. After extraction of the lipids contained in Murumuru seeds, the organic solvent is evaporated, preferably by evaporation under vacuum.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation particulier de la présente invention, l'huile des graines de Murumuru peut être obtenue selon le procédé consistant à extraire les lipides des graines de Murumuru par pression mécanique des graines à froid, avantageusement à l'aide d'une presse à vis continue, pour conduire, après filtration, à des huiles vierges de première pression.In another particular embodiment of the present invention, the oil from the Murumuru seeds can be obtained according to the process consisting in extracting the lipids from the Murumuru seeds by mechanical pressure of the seeds when cold, advantageously using a continuous screw press, to lead, after filtration, to virgin oils of first pressure.
Avantageusement selon la présente invention, l'ensemble des acides gras de l'huile des graines de Murumuru sont sous forme de triglycérides. Par le terme « sous forme de triglycérides », on entend au sens de la présente invention notamment les acides gras qui n'ont pas été saponifiés et qui ne se trouvent pas ainsi sous forme de sels.Advantageously according to the present invention, all of the fatty acids in the oil of Murumuru seeds are in the form of triglycerides. By the term "in the form of triglycerides" is meant in the sense of the present invention in particular the fatty acids which have not been saponified and which are not thus found in the form of salts.
L'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru peut être utilisée à titre de principe actif ou à titre d'excipient dans les compositions cosmétique et pharmaceutique selon la présente invention. L'huile est avantageusement utilisée à titre d'excipient dans les compositions pharmaceutiques et cosmétiques selon la présente invention, mais elle peut également être avantageusement utilisée à titre de principe actif, notamment comme agent hydratant, dans les compositions cosmétiques selon la présente invention. Dans un mode de réalisation particulier de la présente invention, l'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru est utilisée dans une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique en tant qu'excipient, en tant que véhicule, ou en tant qu'ingrédient pour excipient, en substitution des triglycérides synthétiques à chaînes courtes (caprique et caprylique), des triglycérides éthoxylés, des huiles de soja hydrogénées, ou encore des matrices lipophiles.The oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used as an active principle or as an excipient in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention. The oil is advantageously used as an excipient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, but it can also be advantageously used as active principle, in particular as a moisturizing agent, in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention. In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds is used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition as an excipient, as a vehicle, or as an ingredient for excipient, in substitution for the short chain synthetic triglycerides (capric and caprylic), ethoxylated triglycerides, hydrogenated soybean oils, or lipophilic matrices.
Ainsi, l'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru peut être utilisée comme support gras dans diverses compositions cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques, contenant avantageusement au moins un principe actif liposoluble. Par exemple, l'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru peut être utilisée comme base excipient dans les suppositoires, comme excipient de remplissage des capsules molles et gélules classiques (végétales ou à base de gélatine), ou encore comme excipient dans des gels huileux, des sticks tels que les rouges à lèvres ou sticks à lèvres dits hydratants ou solaires, des produits cosmétiques tels que des baumes, onguents, pommades, crèmes ou encore des émulsions huile dans eau, eau dans huile, des émulsions multiples, des émulsions transparentes, des émulsions P.I T., des sprays, des émulsions sans émulsionnant (dispersions stables), des produits de maquillage pour les joues, les cils, les ongles, ou les yeux.Thus, the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used as a fatty support in various cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, advantageously containing at least one liposoluble active principle. For example, the oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used as an excipient base in suppositories, as an excipient for filling conventional soft capsules and capsules (vegetable or gelatin-based), or as an excipient in oily gels, sticks such as lipsticks or so-called moisturizing or sun lipsticks, cosmetic products such as balms, ointments, ointments, creams or even oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil, multiple emulsions, transparent emulsions, PI T. emulsions, sprays, emulsions without emulsifier (stable dispersions), makeup products for the cheeks, eyelashes, nails, or eyes.
L'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru peut être utilisée sous forme brute ou sous forme raffinée dans les compositions cosmétique et pharmaceutique selon la présente invention. Par raffinage, on entend au sens de la présente invention, les opérations unitaires de purification des lipides d'origine végétale bien connues de l'homme de métier, parmi lesquelles on peut citer notamment la neutralisation chimique, la démucilagination, la décoloration, la désodorisation et la frigélisation.The oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can be used in crude form or in refined form in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention. By refining is meant within the meaning of the present invention, the unitary operations for the purification of lipids of plant origin well known from those skilled in the art, among which mention may be made in particular of chemical neutralization, degumming, discoloration, deodorization and refrigeration.
Avantageusement selon la présente invention, l'huile est présente à une concentration comprise entre 0,1 et 50 %, de préférence entre 1 et 30 % en poids, de manière encore préférée entre 1 et 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique.Advantageously according to the present invention, the oil is present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 50%, preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight. cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier de la présente invention, l'huile est présente à une concentration comprise entre 5 et 30 %, de préférence entre 7 et 30 %, et de manière encore plus préférée entre 10 et 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the oil is present at a concentration of between 5 and 30%, preferably between 7 and 30%, and even more preferably between 10 and 30% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
La composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique selon la présente invention se présente avantageusement sous forme huileuse, sous forme d'une émulsion huile-dans- eau ou eau-dans-huile ou multiple, sous forme d'un gel aqueux ou huileux, sous forme d'un produit anhydre liquide, pâteux ou solide, ou sous forme d'une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse à l'aide de sphérules, les sphérules pouvant être des nanoparticules polymériques telles que les nanosphères et les nanocapsules ou mieux des vésicules lipidiques de type ionique et/ou non-ionique.The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to the present invention is advantageously in oily form, in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, in the form of an aqueous or oily gel, in the form of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, or in the form of an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, the spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or better lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type.
Avantageusement selon la présente invention, la composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique est formulée pour être administrée par voie externe topique, orale, sublinguale, sous-cutanée, intramusculaire, intra-veineuse, intratrachéale, intranasale, transdermique ou rectale.Advantageously according to the present invention, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition is formulated to be administered by topical, oral, sublingual, subcutaneous, intramuscular, intravenous, intratracheal, intranasal, intranasal, transdermal or rectal route.
De manière avantageuse selon la présente invention, lorsque la composition est formulée pour être administrée par voie topique, ladite composition, qui peut être plus ou moins fluide, se présente sous forme de crème blanche ou colorée, de pommade, de lait, de lotion, d'onguent, de sérum, de pâte, de mousse, d'aérosol ou de stick.Advantageously according to the present invention, when the composition is formulated to be administered topically, said composition, which can be more or less fluid, is in the form of white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, ointment, serum, paste, foam, aerosol or stick.
De manière avantageuse selon la présente invention, lorsque la composition est formulée pour être administrée par voie orale, ladite composition peut se présenter sous la forme de comprimés, gélules, poudres, granules, solutions ou encore de suspensions orales. La composition selon la présente invention peut par ailleurs contenir les adjuvants habituels dans les domaine cosmétique ou pharmaceutique, tels que les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les solvants, les parfums, les charges, les filtres, les pigments, les agents chélateurs, les absorbeurs d'odeur et les matières colorantes. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées en cosmétique ou en pharmaceutique, et par exemple de 0,01% à 80%» en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Ces adjuvants, selon leur nature, peuvent être introduits dans la phase grasse, dans la phase aqueuse, dans les vésicules lipidiques et/ou dans les nanoparticules.Advantageously according to the present invention, when the composition is formulated to be administered orally, said composition can be in the form of tablets, capsules, powders, granules, solutions or even oral suspensions. The composition according to the present invention may also contain the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, chelating agents, odor absorbers and coloring matters. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in cosmetics or in pharmaceuticals, and for example from 0.01% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles.
Lorsque la composition selon la présente invention est une émulsion, la proportion de la phase grasse peut aller de 5% à 80% en poids, et de préférence de 5% à 50% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les huiles, les émulsionnants et les coémulsionnants utilisés dans la composition sous forme d'émulsion sont choisis parmi ceux classiquement utilisés dans le domaine considéré. L'émulsionnant et le coémulsionnant sont présents, dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,3 % à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.When the composition according to the present invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .
Parmi les huiles utilisables selon la présente invention, on peut citer notamment les huiles minérales, d'autres huiles d'origine végétale (huile d'abricot, huile de tournesol, de prune), les huiles d'origine animale, les huiles de synthèse, les huiles siliconées et les huiles fluorées (perfluoropolyéthers). Des alcools gras, tels que l'alcool cétylique, des acides gras, ou des cires telles que la cire d'abeilles peuvent également être utilisées en tant que matières grasses selon la présente invention.Among the oils which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular mineral oils, other oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil, plum oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils , silicone oils and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, fatty acids, or waxes such as beeswax can also be used as fats according to the present invention.
Parmi les émulsionnants et coémulsionnants utilisables selon la présente invention, on peut citer notamment les esters d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol, tels que le stéarate de PEG-40 ou le stéarate de PEG-100, les esters d'acide gras et de polyol, tels que le stéarate de glycéryle et le tristéarate de sorbitane.Among the emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as PEG-40 stearate or PEG-100 stearate, esters of fatty acid and of polyol, such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.
Parmi les gélifiants hydrophiles utilisables selon la présente invention, peuvent notamment être cités les polymères carboxyvinyliques (carbomère), les copolymères acryliques tels que les copolymères d'acrylate/alkylacrylate, les polyacrylamides, les polysaccharides, les gommes naturelles et les argiles. Parmi les gélifiants lipophiles, peuvent notamment être cités les argiles modifiées telles que les bentones, les sels métalliques d'acides gras, la silice hydrophobe et les polyéthylènes. Avantageusement selon la présente invention, la composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique contient en outre au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe constitué par les actifs hydrophiles, les actifs lipophiles, les agents modulant la différenciation et/ou la prolifération et/ou la pigmentation cutanée, les agents antibactériens, les agents modulant l'adhésion bactérienne sur la peau et/ou les muqueuses, les agents antifongiques, les agents apaisants, les agents anti-prurigineux, les agents kératolytiques, les agents anti-radicaux libres, les agents anti-séborrhéiques, les agents anti-pelliculaires, les agents présentant une activité anti-acnéique, les agents antiirritants, les agents hydratants, les vitamines, les agents anti-inflammatoires, les filtres UVA et UVB, les agents matifiants, les pigments réflecteurs de lumière, les actifs antirides, les agents anti-glycation, les modulateurs de Heat Shock Protein et les inhibiteurs enzymatiques.Among the hydrophilic gelling agents which can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays. Among the lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes. Advantageously according to the present invention, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition also contains at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic active agents, lipophilic active agents, agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation, antibacterial agents, agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes, antifungal agents, soothing agents, anti-pruritic agents, keratolytic agents, anti-free radical agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-dandruff agents, agents with anti-acne activity, anti-irritant agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, UVA and UVB filters, matting agents, light-reflecting pigments, active agents wrinkles, anti-glycation agents, Heat Shock Protein modulators and enzyme inhibitors.
Parmi les actifs hydrophiles utilisables selon la présente invention, on peut citer notamment les protéines ou les hydrolysats de protéine, les peptides tels que les peptides de lupin, les acides aminés, les polyols, l'urée, l'allantoine, les sucres et leurs dérivés, les vitamines hydrosolubles, les extraits végétaux et les hydroxy-acides.Among the hydrophilic active agents which can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of proteins or protein hydrolysates, peptides such as lupine peptides, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and their derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts and hydroxy acids.
Parmi les actifs lipophiles utilisables selon la présente invention, on peut citer notamment le rétinol (vitamine A) et ses dérivés, le tocophérol (vitamine E) et ses dérivés, les acides gras essentiels, les céramides, les huiles essentielles, l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés.Among the lipophilic active agents which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential oils, salicylic acid and its derivatives.
La composition selon la présente invention peut également contenir d'autres agents actifs destinés notamment à la prévention et/ou au traitement des affections cutanées. Parmi ces agents actifs, on peut citer notamment les agents modulant la différenciation et/ou la prolifération et/ou la pigmentation cutanée tels que l'acide rétinoique et ses isomères, le rétinol et ses esters, la vitamine D et ses dérivés, les phyto-oestrogènes et l'acide kojique ; les agents antibactériens tels que l'octanediol et les conservateurs classiques (ammonium quaternaire,...) ; les agents modulant l'adhésion bactérienne sur la peau et/ou les muqueuses tels que certains dérivés de sucres ; les agents antifongiques, en particulier les composés appartenant à la classe des imidazoles ou leurs sels, les composés de la famille des allylamines, les dérivés de glycine (hydroxyméthylglycinate de sodium par exemple), la piroctone olamine ou encore l'octopirox ; les agents apaisants tels que l'acide salicylique, le lupeol, l'allantoine, l'eau de bleuet, le Silanediol Salicylate, les dérivés de réglisse et l'enexolone.The composition according to the present invention may also contain other active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions. Among these active agents, there may be mentioned in particular agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation such as retinoic acid and its isomers, retinol and its esters, vitamin D and its derivatives, phyto -estrogens and kojic acid; antibacterial agents such as octanediol and conventional preservatives (quaternary ammonium, ...); agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes such as certain sugar derivatives; antifungal agents, in particular compounds belonging to the class of imidazoles or their salts, compounds of the allylamine family, glycine derivatives (sodium hydroxymethylglycinate for example), piroctone olamine or even octopirox; soothing agents such as salicylic acid, lupeol, allantoin, blueberry water, Silanediol Salicylate, licorice derivatives and enexolone.
Parmi les agents actifs destinés notamment à la prévention et/ou au traitement des affections cutanées éventuellement présents dans la composition selon la présente invention, peuvent également être cités : les agents anti-prurigineux comme la glycine ; les agents kératolytiques tels que les acides alpha et bêta-hydroxycarboxyliques ou bêta-cétocarboxyliques, leurs sels, amides ou esters et plus particulièrement les hydroxy-acides tels que l'acide glycolique, l'acide lactique, l'acide salicylique, l'acide citrique et de manière générale les acides de fruits ; les agents anti-radicaux libres, tels que l 'alpha-tocophérol ou ses esters, les caroténoïdes, les isoflavones, les OPC, les flavonoïdes, les superoxyde dismutases, certains chélatants de métaux ou l'acide ascorbique et ses esters ; les agents anti-séborrhéiques tels que les rétinoïdes, le sabal, l'extrait de Pygeum Africanum, les sels de zinc.Among the active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions possibly present in the composition according to the present invention, the following may also be mentioned: anti-pruritic agents such as glycine; keratolytic agents such as alpha and beta-hydroxycarboxylic or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, acid citric and in general fruit acids; anti-free radical agents, such as alpha-tocopherol or its esters, carotenoids, isoflavones, OPCs, flavonoids, superoxide dismutases, certain metal chelators or ascorbic acid and its esters; anti-seborrheic agents such as retinoids, sabal, Pygeum Africanum extract, zinc salts.
Peuvent également être ajoutés en tant qu'agents actifs destinés notamment à la prévention et/ou au traitement des affections cutanées dans la composition selon la présente invention, les agents anti-pelliculaires tels que l'octopirox, la pyrithione de zinc ou la piroctone olamine ; les agents présentant une activité anti-acnéique tels que les rétinoïdes, le rétinol, le rétinaldéhyde, les vitamines PP, les peroxydes de benzoyle, l'erythromycine ; les agents anti-irritants tels que les eaux thermales, les polysaccharides, en particulier vis-à-vis de composés irritants éventuellement présents dans les compositions de la présente invention ; les agents hydratants tels que les polyols (par exemple la glycérine) ; les vitamines (par exemple le D-panthénol ou les vitamines C, D, B6) ; les agents anti-inflammatoires tels que les eaux thermales, les polysaccharides ; les filtres UVA et UVB de type écrans organiques et minéraux ; les agents matifiants ou colorants et les pigments réflecteurs de lumière tels que des mélanges de titane et de mica ou d'oxyde de fer ; les actifs antirides tels que le rétinol et ses dérivés (rétinaldéhyde), les furanes d'avocat, les stérols ; les agents anti- glycation ; les modulateurs de Heat Shock Protein ; et les inhibiteurs enzymatiques.Can also be added as active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions in the composition according to the present invention, anti-dandruff agents such as octopirox, zinc pyrithione or piroctone olamine ; agents having anti-acne activity such as retinoids, retinol, retinaldehyde, vitamins PP, benzoyl peroxides, erythromycin; anti-irritant agents such as thermal waters, polysaccharides, in particular with regard to irritant compounds possibly present in the compositions of the present invention; moisturizers such as polyols (eg glycerin); vitamins (for example D-panthenol or vitamins C, D, B6); anti-inflammatory agents such as thermal waters, polysaccharides; UVA and UVB filters such as organic and mineral screens; matting or coloring agents and light-reflecting pigments such as mixtures of titanium and mica or iron oxide; anti-wrinkle active agents such as retinol and its derivatives (retinaldehyde), avocado furans, sterols; anti-glycation agents; Heat Shock Protein modulators; and enzyme inhibitors.
La présente invention a également pour objet une méthode de traitement cosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu'on administre à un être humain une composition cosmétique selon la présente invention pour traiter la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles ou les cheveux.The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that a composition is administered to a human being cosmetic according to the present invention for treating the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair.
Avantageusement selon la présente invention, la composition cosmétique est utilisée à titre de produit de soin, de produit d'hygiène corporelle, de produit de maquillage ou de produit déodorant pour la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles ou les cheveux. En particulier, la composition peut être utilisée à titre de produit hydratant ou de produit protecteur contre la perte insensible en eau de la peau. De manière encore plus avantageuse, la composition cosmétique selon la présente invention est utilisée pour traiter la peau sèche, les cheveux secs ou les lèvres sèches. La composition cosmétique selon la présente invention peut encore être avantageusement utilisée pour traiter la peau ou les lèvres gercée(s).Advantageously according to the present invention, the cosmetic composition is used as a care product, body hygiene product, makeup product or deodorant product for the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair. In particular, the composition can be used as a hydrating product or as a protective product against insensible water loss from the skin. Even more advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used to treat dry skin, dry hair or dry lips. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also be advantageously used to treat chapped skin or lips.
L'huile extraite des graines de Murumuru peut ainsi avantageusement être incorporée dans des compositions pour la peau ou les muqueuses, telles que des compositions hydratantes, car l'huile présente un pouvoir rétenteur de l'eau et empêche ainsi l'eau de s'évaporer de la peau. L'huile de Murumuru selon la présente invention peut encore avantageusement être utilisée dans des shampooings ou après-shampooings capillaires, ainsi que dans des vernis à ongles, destinés à améliorer la brillance et la souplesse respectivement des cheveux et des ongles ou encore à revitaliser respectivement les cheveux et les ongles. La composition cosmétique selon la présente invention peut ainsi se présenter notamment sous la forme d'une crème ou d'une lotion hydratante, d'un gel douche hydratant, d'un shampooing, d'un après-shampooing, d'un revitalisant capillaire, d'un baume démêlant, d'un stick labial hydratant, ou encore d'un rouge à lèvres ou d'un produit de maquillage du visage et des ongles.The oil extracted from Murumuru seeds can thus advantageously be incorporated into compositions for the skin or the mucous membranes, such as moisturizing compositions, since the oil has a water retaining power and thus prevents water from s' evaporate from the skin. The Murumuru oil according to the present invention can also advantageously be used in hair shampoos or conditioners, as well as in nail varnishes, intended to improve the shine and the flexibility respectively of the hair and the nails or also to revitalize respectively hair and nails. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can thus be presented in particular in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion, a hydrating shower gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair conditioner. , a detangling balm, a moisturizing lip stick, or even a lipstick or a make-up product for the face and nails.
La présente invention a également pour objet l'utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru à titre d'excipient dans une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique. La présente invention a également pour objet l'utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru à titre de principe actif, avantageusement à titre d'agent hydratant ou d'agent protecteur contre la perte insensible en eau de la peau, dans une composition cosmétique selon la présente invention.The present invention also relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as an excipient in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition. The present invention also relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as active principle, advantageously as agent moisturizer or protective agent against insensible water loss from the skin, in a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
Enfin, la présente invention a pour objet l'utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru comme aliment ou comme complément alimentaire.Finally, the present invention relates to the use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as a food or as a food supplement.
Les exemples suivants sont donnés à titre non limitatif et illustrent la présente invention.The following examples are given without limitation and illustrate the present invention.
A moins qu'il n'en soit précisé autrement, les pourcentages indiqués dans les exemples suivants sont des pourcentages en poids. Dans les exemples suivants, toutes les huiles de graines de Murumuru ont été extraites par pression à froid.Unless otherwise specified, the percentages given in the following examples are percentages by weight. In the following examples, all of the Murumuru seed oils were extracted by cold pressing.
Exemple 1 : Compositions de l'huile brute et de l'huile raffinée extraites de graines de Murumuru Exemple 2 : Procédé de raffinage d'huile brute extraite de graines de MurumuruExample 1 Compositions of Crude Oil and Refined Oil Extracted from Murumuru Seeds Example 2 Process for Refining Crude Oil Extracted from Murumuru Seeds
Dans un réacteur de 60 litres, équipé d'un arbre d'agitation et d'une double enveloppe, on introduit 30 kg de beurre de murumuru brut, préalablement fondu à 35°C. On chauffe alors jusqu'à une température comprise entre 75 et 90°C. On procède ensuite à l'ajout de 100 g d'une solution d'acide phosphorique à 75 %. On maintient sous agitation pendant 1 heure. On procède alors à l'ajout progressif de 900 ml de soude 4N. Après une heure de réaction, le contenu du réacteur est centrifugé 4 fois afin d'éliminer les savons d'acides gras. La phase huileuse récupérée est alors lavée 4 fois par 3 litres d'eau, jusqu'à neutralisation des eaux de lavages. Entre chaque lavage, l'eau est éliminée par décantation. Le beurre de murumuru obtenu est alors séché sous vide à 90 °C pendant 1 heure.30 kg of raw murumuru butter, previously melted at 35 ° C, are introduced into a 60 liter reactor, equipped with a stirring shaft and a double jacket. Then heated to a temperature between 75 and 90 ° C. Next, 100 g of a 75% phosphoric acid solution are added. Stirring is continued for 1 hour. We then proceed to the gradual addition of 900 ml of 4N sodium hydroxide. After one hour of reaction, the contents of the reactor are centrifuged 4 times in order to remove the fatty acid soaps. The oily phase recovered is then washed 4 times with 3 liters of water, until the washing waters are neutralized. Between each wash, the water is removed by decantation. The murumuru butter obtained is then dried under vacuum at 90 ° C for 1 hour.
Le produit séché est ensuite décoloré à 90°C, pendant 30 minutes, en présence de 1 % de terre décolorante. Le beurre de murumuru est enfin désodorisé dans un désodoriseur de type couche épaisse, par injection de vapeur chaude, sous un vide compris entre 3 et 5 mbar, et à une température de 180-90°C pendant 5 heures.The dried product is then discolored at 90 ° C, for 30 minutes, in the presence of 1% bleaching earth. Murumuru butter is finally deodorized in a thick layer type deodorizer, by injection of hot steam, under a vacuum of between 3 and 5 mbar, and at a temperature of 180-90 ° C for 5 hours.
Exemple 3 : Compositions cosmétiquesExample 3 Cosmetic Compositions
Exemple 3.1 : Stick labialExample 3.1: Lip stick
% en poids% in weight
Huile de ricin QSP 100Castor oil QSP 100
Alcool oléylique 20Oleyl alcohol 20
Huile de palmiste hydrogénée 17Hydrogenated palm kernel oil 17
Cire de candélilla 11Candelilla wax 11
Polyglycéryl-3 Cire d'abeille 10Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax 10
Huile minérale 9,6Mineral oil 9.6
Beurre de Murumuru 8 à 12Murumuru butter 8 to 12
Quaternium-18 Hectorite 1,1Quaternium-18 Hectorite 1.1
Dioxyde de titane 1Titanium dioxide 1
Parfum QS Acétate de Tocophéryle 0,5 Carbonate de propylène 0,3QS fragrance Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Propylene carbonate 0.3
Exemple 3.2 : Rouge à lèvresExample 3.2: Lipstick
% en poids% in weight
Palmitate d'isopropryle QSP 100Isopropryl palmitate QSP 100
Huile de ricin 22,5Castor oil 22.5
Pigments 15Pigments 15
Cire de carnauba 13Carnauba wax 13
Beurre de Murumuru 10 à 30Murumuru butter 10 to 30
Cire d'abeille 8,5Beeswax 8.5
Parfum QSQS fragrance
Exemple 3.3 : Shampooing % en poidsExample 3.3 Shampoo% by Weight
Eau QSP 100Water QSP 100
Lauroamphoacétate de sodium 11Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 11
Glucoside de noix de coco 11Coconut glucoside 11
Sulfate de magnésium de laureth 6 Cocoate de PEG-40 glycéryle 2,4Laureth magnesium sulfate 6 PEG-40 cocoate glyceryl 2.4
Distéarate de PEG- 150 1 ,2PEG-150 distearate 1, 2
Beurre de Murumuru 0,5 à 2Murumuru butter 0.5 to 2
Acide citrique 0,5Citric acid 0.5
E.D.T.A disodique 0,3 Parfum QSE.D.T.A disodium 0.3 Perfume QS
Conservateurs QSQS preservatives
Exemple 3.4 : Gel doucheExample 3.4: Shower gel
% en poids Eau QSP 100% by weight Water QSP 100
Cocoate de PEG-40 glycéryle 8,7 Cocoamphodiacétate disodique 5,4 Sulfate de sodium de coceth 3,8PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate 8.7 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 5.4 Coceth sodium sulfate 3.8
Distéarate de PEG-3 2,5PEG-3 distearate 2.5
Beurre de Murumuru 2 à 5Murumuru butter 2 to 5
Distéarate de PEG- 150 1 ,2 Acide citrique 0,4PEG-150 distearate 1, 2 Citric acid 0.4
Parfum QSQS fragrance
Conservateurs QSQS preservatives
Exemple 4 : Evaluation de l'effet protecteur du beurre de Murumuru contre l'évaporation de l'eau de la peauEXAMPLE 4 Evaluation of the Protective Effect of Murumuru Butter Against Evaporation of Water from the Skin
L'objet de cette étude est d'évaluer l'effet d'un beurre de Murumuru raffiné (désigné par MR), obtenu selon le procédé de l'exemple 2, sur la perte insensible en eau de la peau, après application unique du beurre chez 10 volontaires adultes de sexe féminin.The object of this study is to evaluate the effect of a refined Murumuru butter (designated by MR), obtained according to the method of Example 2, on the insensible water loss of the skin, after a single application of the butter in 10 adult female volunteers.
1. Conditions environnementales1. Environmental conditions
La totalité de l'étude a été effectuée dans des conditions environnementales de température et d'humidité relative spécifiques, contrôlées et identiques pour chacun des volontaires. Les mesures ont été réalisées dans une pièce entièrement climatisée et munie de régulateurs d'humidité (déshumidificateur et humidificateur). La température ambiante a été maintenue à 22 + 2°C et l'humidité relative entre 45 et 55%, grâce à un microprocesseur relié à des capteurs-transmetteurs de température et d'humidité (C.2AI KIMO). La stabilité de ces paramètres a été contrôlée et imprimée en continu à l'aide d'un enregistreur multivoies informatisé (Eurotherm Chessell).The entire study was carried out under specific, controlled and identical environmental conditions of temperature and relative humidity for each of the volunteers. The measurements were carried out in a fully air-conditioned room equipped with humidity regulators (dehumidifier and humidifier). The ambient temperature was maintained at 22 + 2 ° C and the relative humidity between 45 and 55%, thanks to a microprocessor connected to temperature-humidity sensors-transmitters (C.2AI KIMO). The stability of these parameters was continuously monitored and printed using a computerized multi-channel recorder (Eurotherm Chessell).
2. Examen clinique spécifique2. Specific clinical examination
La peau des jambes a préalablement fait l'objet d'un examen clinique spécifique, lors de l'admission définitive par le chargé d'étude, i.e. juste avant le début de l'étude, afin de ne retenir que des surfaces exemptes de toutes traces macroscopiques d'irritation pouvant interférer dans la réalisation des mesures et l'interprétation des résultats. 3. Instrumentation : analyseur de la Perte Insensible en EauThe skin of the legs was previously the subject of a specific clinical examination, upon final admission by the study manager, ie just before the start of the study, in order to retain only surfaces free of all macroscopic traces of irritation which may interfere with the measurement and interpretation of the results. 3. Instrumentation: Insensitive Water Loss analyzer
La mesure de la Perte Insensible en Eau (P.I.E. ou T.E.W.L. - Trans Epidermal Water Loss) a été réalisée à l'aide d'un Tewamètre™ TM 210 (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH). Cet appareil mesure le taux d'évaporation de l'eau diffusant à travers le stratum corneum (en g/m2.h), ainsi que l'humidité relative de l'air ambiant (%) et la température. L'appareil comprend 2 éléments :The measurement of the Insensible Water Loss (PIE or TEWL - Trans Epidermal Water Loss) was carried out using a Tewameter ™ TM 210 (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH). This device measures the rate of evaporation of water diffusing through the stratum corneum (in g / m 2 .h), as well as the relative humidity of the ambient air (%) and the temperature. The device includes 2 elements:
- une unité principale, génératrice de tension, munie d'un microprocesseur et d'un écran à cristaux liquides sur lequel s'affichent les valeurs mesurées par l'appareil,- a main unit, voltage generator, fitted with a microprocessor and a liquid crystal screen on which the values measured by the device are displayed,
- une sonde de mesure reliée à l'unité principale et munie d'une tête en plastique et d'une unité conductrice sur laquelle sont adaptés 2 capteurs sensibles à la vapeur d'eau et à la température. L'instrument détermine une quantité de vapeur d'eau émise par unité de temps, selon la loi de diffusion de Fick : 1/A . dm/dt = -D dp/dx, où : A : surface de peau (m ) m : poids de l'eau diffusée (g) t : temps (s)- a measurement probe connected to the main unit and provided with a plastic head and a conductive unit on which are fitted 2 sensors sensitive to water vapor and temperature. The instrument determines a quantity of water vapor emitted per unit of time, according to Fick's diffusion law: 1 / A. dm / dt = -D dp / dx, where: A: skin surface (m) m: weight of the diffused water (g) t: time (s)
D : coefficient de diffusion (0,0877 g/m/h/mm Hg)D: diffusion coefficient (0.0877 g / m / h / mm Hg)
P : pression partielle de vapeur d'eau dans l'air (mm Hg) x : distance capteur - peau ; dm/dt représente le taux d'évaporation, proportionnel au gradient de pression de vapeur d'eau dp/dx mesuré par les 2 capteurs de l'appareil. Ceux-ci sont protégés par la tête en plastique permettant des mesures sur une surface de 1cm . Les mesures de P.I.E. sont effectuées en mode standard. La sonde est positionnée sur la zone de mesure cutanée, sans pression. Un signal sonore se déclenche pour signifier que la mesure commence. Une mesure de P.I.E. est prise toutes les 2 secondes pendant 2 minutes environ, un temps de 1 minute étant en moyenne nécessaire pour obtenir des valeurs stables. La valeur moyenne des 20 dernières secondes et la déviation de la valeur moyenne s'affiche alors à l'écran.P: partial pressure of water vapor in the air (mm Hg) x: sensor - skin distance; dm / dt represents the evaporation rate, proportional to the water vapor pressure gradient dp / dx measured by the 2 sensors of the device. These are protected by the plastic head allowing measurements on an area of 1cm. The measurements of P.I.E. are performed in standard mode. The probe is positioned on the skin measurement area, without pressure. An audible signal is triggered to signify that the measurement has started. A measure of P.I.E. is taken every 2 seconds for approximately 2 minutes, an average time of 1 minute being necessary to obtain stable values. The average value of the last 20 seconds and the deviation from the average value are then displayed on the screen.
4. Méthodologie4. Methodology
• Zones : 5 zones cutanées de 30 cm (6 x 5 cm) environ de la face externe des jambes, délimitées entre le genou et la cheville (1 zone traitée par produit et une zone témoin sur laquelle aucun produit n'a été appliqué). La zone témoin et les 4 zones traitées ont été déterminées sur les jambes droite et gauche, selon une randomisation au hasard.• Zones: 5 skin zones approximately 30 cm (6 x 5 cm) from the outside of the legs, delimited between the knee and the ankle (1 zone treated by product and a control zone to which no product has been applied) . The control zone and the 4 treated zones were were determined on the right and left legs, according to a randomization.
Les mesures ont été réalisées, pour chaque temps de l'étude et pour chaque zone, sur une sous-zone de 10 cm (une sous-zone par temps de mesure), après un essuyage délicat à l'aide d'un papier en ouate de cellulose.The measurements were carried out, for each time of the study and for each zone, on a 10 cm sub-zone (one sub-zone per measurement time), after a delicate wiping with paper. cellulose wadding.
Dose appliquée : 0,06 g environ de chaque produit, soit 2 + 0,04 mg/cm .Applied dose: approximately 0.06 g of each product, i.e. 2 + 0.04 mg / cm.
Modalités d'application : massage délicat, de manière uniforme, à l'aide d'un doigtier, afin d'assurer la meilleure pénétration possible du produit.Methods of application: delicate massage, uniformly, using a fingertip, to ensure the best possible penetration of the product.
Période de repos : 30 minutes minimum avant les mesures expérimentales initiales.Rest period: 30 minutes minimum before the initial experimental measurements.
Temps de mesure : T0 (avant l'application), Tl heure, T4 heures et T8 heures.Measurement time: T0 (before application), Tl hour, T4 hours and T8 hours.
5. Analyse des données et interprétation des résultats5. Data analysis and interpretation of results
Les valeurs moyennes de la P.I.E., obtenues à chaque temps de l'étude, au niveau des zones traitées et témoin (de façon à apprécier les variations spontanées au cours de l'essai), ont été déterminées par le calcul de la moyenne arithmétique et de l'écart obtenu par rapport à la moyenne (S.E.M.) des données individuelles. L'homogénéité des variances et la normalité des distributions ont été vérifiées respectivement par le test de Levene et le test de Kolmogorov Smirnov. Les analyses statistiques suivantes : => analyse de variance, suivie d'un test de comparaisons multiples (ANOVA et L.S.D., significativité : p<0,05) en cas de normalité des distributions et d'homogénéité des variances ;The mean values of the EIP, obtained at each time of the study, in the treated and control zones (so as to assess the spontaneous variations during the test), were determined by calculating the arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean (SEM) of the individual data. The homogeneity of the variances and the normality of the distributions were checked respectively by the Levene test and the Kolmogorov Smirnov test. The following statistical analyzes: => analysis of variance, followed by a test of multiple comparisons (ANOVA and L.S.D., significance: p <0.05) in case of normality of the distributions and homogeneity of the variances;
=> test non paramétrique de Friedman associé au test de Wilcoxon (« two-tail », significativité : p<0,05) en cas de non homogénéité des variances ou de non normalité des distributions ; ont permi de comparer : - les valeurs obtenues après l'application par rapport aux valeurs initiales, pour chacune des zones traitées et témoin ;=> non-parametric Friedman test associated with the Wilcoxon test (“two-tail”, significance: p <0.05) in the event of non-homogeneity of the variances or non-normality of the distributions; allowed to compare: - the values obtained after the application compared to the initial values, for each of the treated and control zones;
- les valeurs obtenues sur chaque zone traitée par rapport aux valeurs mesurées sur la zone témoin, pour chaque temps de l'essai. L'analyse a également porté sur les différences (ΔTx-TO). Le pourcentage de variation (% variation) de la P.I.E. de chaque zone traitée a été calculé, pour chaque volontaire, à chaque temps de l'étude, par rapport à la valeur initiale, selon la formule suivante : % variation = \(V (Tx) - V (TOT) x 1001- the values obtained on each treated zone compared to the values measured on the control zone, for each time of the test. The analysis also focused on the differences (ΔTx-TO). The percentage of variation (% variation) of the EIP of each treated area was calculated, for each volunteer, at each time of the study, compared to the initial value, according to the following formula: % variation = \ (V (Tx) - V (TOT) x 1001
V (T0) avec :V (T0) with:
V (Tx) = valeur à un temps donné sur une zone traitée donnée V (T0) = valeur initiale (avant l'application) sur la même zone traitée.V (Tx) = value at a given time on a given treated area V (T0) = initial value (before application) on the same treated area.
Au cas où des variations de la P.I.E. aient été enregistrées sur la zone témoin, ces valeurs ont été soustraites aux valeurs obtenues sur chacune des zones traitées, selon la formule suivante : P% variation = \(V (Tx) - V (TOT) x 1001 - iïV (Tx*) - V (T0*T) x 1001In case variations in the P.I.E. have been recorded in the control zone, these values have been subtracted from the values obtained in each of the treated zones, according to the following formula: P% variation = \ (V (Tx) - V (TOT) x 1001 - iïV (Tx *) - V (T0 * T) x 1001
V (T0) V (T0*) avec :V (T0) V (T0 *) with:
V (Tx) = valeur à un temps donné sur une zone traitée donnéeV (Tx) = value at a given time on a given treated area
V (T0) = valeur initiale (avant l'application) sur la même zone traitée V (Tx*) = valeur au même temps T que Tx, sur la zone témoinV (T0) = initial value (before application) on the same treated area V (Tx *) = value at the same time T as Tx, on the control area
V (T0*) = valeur initiale (avant l'application) sur la zone témoin.V (T0 *) = initial value (before application) in the control area.
L'effet de chaque produit sur la Perte Insensible en Eau a été déterminé par le calcul de la moyenne arithmétique et de l'écart par rapport à la moyenne (S.E.M.) des pourcentages de variation obtenus sur l'ensemble des volontaires. La rémanence de la réponse observée a ainsi été discutée.The effect of each product on the Insensible Water Loss was determined by calculating the arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean (S.E.M.) of the percentages of variation obtained on all volunteers. The remanence of the observed response was thus discussed.
L'allégation de type « PROTECTEUR CONTRE L'EVAPORATION DE L'EAU » pouvait être justifiée, si une diminution statistiquement significative de la Perte Insensible en Eau (à minima au temps 4 heures), était relevée en comparaison à la zone témoin et aux valeurs initiales. Les pourcentages de la variation de la P.I.E. (moyennes et écarts par rapport à la moyenne S.EM., n = 10) sont donnés dans le tableau 2 suivant : Tableau 2 The allegation of type “PROTECTOR AGAINST WATER EVAPORATION” could be justified, if a statistically significant reduction in the Insensible Water Loss (at least at time 4 hours), was noted in comparison with the control zone and initial values. The percentages of the variation in the PIE (means and deviations from the S.EM. mean, n = 10) are given in table 2 below: Table 2
% : pourcentage de variation par rapport à la mesure initiale, sur la même zone P% : pourcentage de variation par rapport à la mesure initiale, sur la même zone et par rapport aux valeurs de la zone témoin, au même temps de l 'étude.%: percentage of variation compared to the initial measurement, on the same zone P%: percentage of variation compared to the initial measurement, on the same zone and compared to the values of the control zone, at the same time of the study .
5. Conclusion5. Conclusion
L'analyse statistique a préalablement démontré que l'homogénéité des variances n'était pas vérifiée dans certains cas pour l'effet produit (sur les différences Δ(Tx-TO)). L'analyse statistique a alors été effectuée par le test de Wilcoxon en séries appariées (« two-tail », significativité : p<0,05). Par ailleurs, les valeurs initiales de la Perte Insensible en Eau étaient statistiquement identiques pour chacune des zones cutanées de l'étude. En ce qui concerne le produit MR (beurre de Murumuru raffiné), l'analyse des résultats a permis de mettre en évidence une diminution statistiquement significative de la P.I.E. par rapport aux mesures initiales et aux valeurs relevées au niveau de la zone témoin, 1 puis 4 heures environ après l'application : . au temps 1 heure : -20% . au temps 4 heures : -17%Statistical analysis has previously demonstrated that the homogeneity of the variances was not verified in certain cases for the effect produced (on the differences Δ (Tx-TO)). Statistical analysis was then performed by the Wilcoxon test in paired series (“two-tail”, significance: p <0.05). Furthermore, the initial values of the Insensible Water Loss were statistically identical for each of the skin areas of the study. With regard to the product MR (refined Murumuru butter), the analysis of the results made it possible to highlight a statistically significant reduction in P.I.E. compared to the initial measurements and the values recorded at the level of the control zone, 1 then 4 hours approximately after the application:. at time 1 hour: -20%. at time 4 hours: -17%
En conclusion, l'application cutanée unique du produit dénommé MR, dans les conditions expérimentales adoptées, chez 10 volontaires adultes de sexe féminin, a donc entraîné une diminution statistiquement significative de la Perte Insensible enIn conclusion, the single cutaneous application of the product called MR, under the experimental conditions adopted, in 10 adult female volunteers, therefore resulted in a statistically significant decrease in the Insensitive Loss in
Eau, mise en évidence par des mesures d'évaporimétrie. Cet effet a persisté de façon statistiquement significative au moins 4 heures après l'application, traduisant ainsi une bonne rémanence. Ceci démontre ainsi que le beurre de Murumuru présente un effet protecteur contre l'évaporation de l'eau de la peau. Water, highlighted by evaporimetry measurements. This effect persisted statistically significantly at least 4 hours after application, thus reflecting a good afterglow. This thus demonstrates that Murumuru butter has a protective effect against the evaporation of water from the skin.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru.1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it contains an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
2. Composition pharmaceutique caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient une huile extraite de graines de Murumuru.2. Pharmaceutical composition characterized in that it contains an oil extracted from Murumuru seeds.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que l'ensemble des acides gras de l'huile sont sous forme de triglycérides. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that all of the fatty acids in the oil are in the form of triglycerides.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que l'huile est utilisée à titre d'excipient.4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oil is used as an excipient.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que l'huile est utilisée sous forme brute ou raffinée.5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oil is used in crude or refined form.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que l'huile est présente à une concentration comprise entre 0,1 et 50 %, de préférence entre 1 et 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the oil is present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 50%, preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.
7. Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que l'huile est présente à une concentration comprise entre 5 et 30 %, de préférence entre 7 et 30 %, et de manière encore plus préférée entre 10 et 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the oil is present at a concentration of between 5 and 30%, preferably between 7 and 30%, and even more preferably between 10 and 30% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition se présente sous forme huileuse, sous forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile ou multiple, sous forme d'un gel aqueux ou huileux, sous forme d'un produit anhydre liquide, pâteux ou solide, ou sous forme d'une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse à l'aide de sphérules.8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in oily form, in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, in the form of a gel aqueous or oily, in the form of an anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid product, or in the form of an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition est formulée pour être administrée par voie topique, orale, sublinguale, sous-cutanée, intramusculaire, intra-veineuse, intratrachéale, intranasale, transdermique ou rectale. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is formulated to be administered by topical, oral, sublingual, subcutaneous, intramuscular, intravenous, intratracheal, intranasal, transdermal or rectal route.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition contient en outre au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe constitué par les actifs hydrophiles, les actifs lipophiles, les agents modulant la différenciation et ou la prolifération et/ou la pigmentation cutanée, les agents antibactériens, les agents modulant l'adhésion bactérienne sur la peau et/ou les muqueuses, les agents antifongiques, les agents apaisants, les agents anti-prurigineux, les agents kératolytiques, les agents anti-radicaux libres, les agents anti-séborrhéiques, les agents anti-pelliculaires, les agents présentant une activité anti-acnéique, les agents anti-irritants, les agents hydratants, les vitamines, les agents anti-inflammatoires, les filtres UVA et UVB, les agents matifiants, les pigments réflecteurs de lumières, les actifs antirides, les agents anti-glycation, les modulateurs de Heat Shock Protein et les inhibiteurs enzymatiques.10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic active agents, lipophilic active agents, agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation, antibacterial agents, agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes, antifungal agents, soothing agents, anti-pruritic agents, keratolytic agents, anti-free radical agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-dandruff agents, agents with anti-acne activity, anti-irritant agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, UVA and UVB filters, matting agents, light-reflecting pigments, anti-wrinkle active ingredients, anti-glycation agents, Heat Shock Protein modulators and enzyme inhibitors.
11. Méthode de traitement cosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu'on administre une composition cosmétique telle que définie à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et11. Cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is administered as defined in any one of claims 1 and
3 à 10 pour traiter la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles ou les cheveux.3 to 10 to treat the skin, mucous membranes, nails or hair.
12. Méthode de traitement selon la revendication 11, caractérisée en ce que la composition est utilisée à titre de produit de soin, de produit d'hygiène corporelle, de produit de maquillage ou de produit déodorant pour la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles ou les cheveux.12. Treatment method according to claim 11, characterized in that the composition is used as a care product, body hygiene product, makeup product or deodorant product for the skin, mucous membranes, nails or the hair.
13. Méthode de traitement selon la revendication 11 ou 12, caractérisée en ce que la composition est utilisée à titre de produit hydratant.13. Treatment method according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the composition is used as a hydrating product.
14. Méthode de traitement selon l'une quelconque des revendications 11 à 13, caractérisée en ce que la composition est utilisée pour traiter la peau sèche, les cheveux secs ou les lèvres sèches, ou encore pour traiter la peau ou les lèvres gercée(s).14. Treatment method according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the composition is used to treat dry skin, dry hair or dry lips, or also to treat chapped skin or chapped lips (s ).
15. Utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru à titre d'excipient dans une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique.15. Use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as an excipient in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.
16. Utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru à titre de principe actif, avantageusement à titre d'agent hydratant, dans une composition cosmétique. 16. Use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as active principle, advantageously as hydrating agent, in a cosmetic composition.
17. Utilisation d'huile extraite de graines de Murumuru comme aliment ou comme complément alimentaire. 17. Use of oil extracted from Murumuru seeds as food or as a food supplement.
EP03709853A 2002-01-03 2003-01-03 Cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted for murumuru seeds Withdrawn EP1461060A2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0200027A FR2834206B1 (en) 2002-01-03 2002-01-03 COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN OIL EXTRACTED FROM MURUMURU SEEDS, ITS COSMETIC USE, AND PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN OIL EXTRACTED FROM MURUMURU SEEDS
FR0200027 2002-01-03
PCT/FR2003/000006 WO2003059244A2 (en) 2002-01-03 2003-01-03 Cosmetic composition containing an oil extracted for murumuru seeds

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FR2877577A1 (en) * 2004-11-09 2006-05-12 Jean Pierre Maloisel Oral compositions, used to treat benign prostatic hyperplasia and chronic or acute inflammatory pathologies, comprise oil extract of Astrocaryum aculeatum, obtained by first cold pressure or vapor extraction
BRPI1101136A2 (en) * 2011-03-31 2013-06-04 Natura Cosmeticos Sa cosmetic composition for cleaning the skin containing oils of vegetable origin, manufacturing process of said composition and use of said composition
US20160058689A1 (en) * 2014-08-28 2016-03-03 Natura Cosméticos S.A. Compositions for Cosmetic Formulation Comprising A Mixture Selected From Murumuru Butter, Ucuúba Butter, Brazilian-Nut Oil, Passion Fruit Oil, Cupuassu Butter, Assaí Oil and / or Nhandiroba Oil and / or Esters Therefor, As Well As The Use Of A Mixture for Preparation Of A Cosmetic Product
WO2017185147A1 (en) 2016-04-25 2017-11-02 L'oreal Nanostructured lipid carriers and methods for making and using them

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LU29815A1 (en) * 1949-10-10
US3964500A (en) * 1973-12-26 1976-06-22 Lever Brothers Company Lusterizing shampoo containing a polysiloxane and a hair-bodying agent
US4169901A (en) * 1978-03-01 1979-10-02 The Procter & Gamble Company Meaty-flavored deep-fat frying compositions
GB2130233B (en) * 1982-11-22 1986-10-01 Unilever Plc Spread having butter-like properties
GB8501778D0 (en) * 1985-01-24 1985-02-27 Unilever Plc Fat blends containing milk fat
FR2786694B1 (en) * 1998-12-03 2002-09-27 Serobiologiques Lab Sa USE OF PLANT EXTRACTS, PARTICULARLY ANTI-RADICAL ACTION AND COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUCH EXTRACTS

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AU2003214289A8 (en) 2003-07-30
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AU2003214289A1 (en) 2003-07-30
FR2834206B1 (en) 2004-03-19

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