Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
  • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of foundation fluid in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a silicone surfactant and coated pigments.
• the invention also relates to a makeup process of the skin comprising applying the foundation to the skin.
• the foundation composition is a makeup composition of the skin to be human.
• the composition according to the invention may be a foundation to be applied on the face or neck, a concealer, a tinted cream, a composition body makeup.
• Foundation compositions are commonly used to provide a aesthetic color to the skin, especially to the face, but also to camouflage skin imperfections such as redness, blemishes.
• the object of the present invention is to provide a foundation composition having good stability after storage at room temperature (25 ° C) during at least 4 months and allowing to obtain a homogeneous makeup of the skin, having satisfactory aesthetic qualities.
• the subject of the invention is a foundation in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase, a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, at least 5% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition, of hydrophobic coated pigments, the composition being free of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or containing polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio of the C 8 -C 22 dimethicone copolyol relative to polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 2.
• the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic makeup process of the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition such as than previously defined.
• the invention also relates to the use of a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethiconecopolyol in a foundation composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, hydrophobic coated pigments, the composition being free from polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or containing polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in an amount such that the weight ratio of the alkyl C 8 -C 22 dimethiconecopolyol relative to with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 2, to obtain a stable and / or homogeneous emulsion and / or easily applying to the skin, and / or to obtain a homogeneous makeup of the skin.
• the emulsion according to the invention has a very good stability at room temperature (25 ° C), especially after storage for 4 months or better than 6 months, or even even 8 months.
• the foundation is easily applied to the skin, with a feeling of smoothness, softness and not greasy, it dries quickly and distributes evenly over the skin.
• the makeup obtained presents a good behavior in the time of dullness.
• the alkyl C 8 -C 22 dimethicone copolyol present in the foundation according to the invention is a poly methyl (C 8 -C 22 ) dimethyl methyl siloxane oxypropylene and / or oxyethylenated.
• alkyl C 8 -C 22 dimethicone copolyol mention may be made of cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.
• the alkyl C 8 -C 22 dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging from 2 5% to 5% by weight.
• the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate comprises 4 ethylene oxide units. It may be free from the composition according to the invention or present in a content such that the weight ratio of the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol relative to the polyglyceryl isostearate-4 is greater than or equal to 2, of preferably greater than or equal to 3.
• the hydrophobic coated pigments present in the emulsion according to the invention are surface-treated pigments with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the fatty phase of the emulsion, in particular so that they have a good wettability with oils of the fatty phase.
• these treated pigments are well dispersed in the fatty phase.
• the pigments to be coated may be inorganic or organic pigments.
• pigments it is possible to use metal oxides such as iron oxides (in particular those of yellow, red, brown or black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. ; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and their mixtures. It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides or of titanium dioxide.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
• silicones such as meticones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes
• fatty acids such as stearic acid
• metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluor
• the N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
• the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
• the amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine
• alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
• Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.
• the hydrophobic coated pigments may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content at least equal to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 8% to 15% by weight. weight.
• the fatty phase of the emulsion according to the invention advantageously comprises less an oil.
• the emulsion advantageously comprises from 20% to 42% by weight of oil, relative to to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 30% to 38% by weight.
• the emulsion according to the invention preferably comprises at least one silicone oil, in particular a volatile silicone oil.
• the oil may be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon and / or silicone, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin or petroleum jelly, mink, turtle, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, almond oil sweet, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or germs of cereals; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, acid lauric, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
• silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxane
• phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones
• aliphatic and / or aromatic groups or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine
• polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.
• At least one volatile oil can be used at ambient temperature.
• volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, at room temperature in less than an hour.
• the volatile oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25 ° C.
• oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups at the end of the silicone chain or hanging.
• the volatile oil is preferably a volatile silicone oil.
• silicones linear or cyclic having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms carbon. It is thus possible to mention in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and / or their mixtures.
• C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins such as isooctane, isododecane, isodecane, heptane, isohexadecane and / or their mixtures.
• volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention a content ranging from 20% to 45% by weight, preferably from 25 to 40%, and still preferably 30 to 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fatty phase may also comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances, which may be of plant origin, animal, mineral or synthetic, or even silicone, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbon-based waxes such as as beeswax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury wax, Japan, waxes of cork or sugarcane fibers, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, the hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C.
• silicone waxes among which may be mentioned alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.
• Waxes may come under form stable dispersions of colloidal particles of wax as they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice ", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pp. 21-32.
• Menemulsions Theory and Practice As liquid wax at room temperature, mention may be made of Jojoba oil.
• the waxes may be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10%, by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions of the invention may also comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethicone such as, for example, the product sold under the name of "Abil wax 2440" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.
• compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one silicone resin comprising a combination of the units R 3 SiO 1/2 , R 2 SiO 2/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 , in which R denotes a radical alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• the fumed silica preferably has a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
• the thickening agent of the fatty phase may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still 0.4% to 3% by weight.
• the fatty phase including the alkyl C 8 -C 22 dimethicone copolyol and optionally the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate if present, may represent from 22% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 25% to 45% by weight, and preferably 30% to 40% by weight.
• the aqueous phase comprises water.
• the water can be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise solvents other than water such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as the mono, di- or tripropylene glycol alkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
• solvents other than water such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as the mono, di- or tripropylene glycol alkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
• the aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example for example, sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.
• stabilizing agents for example for example, sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.
• the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.
• the aqueous phase is present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 75% by weight, preferably ranging from 35% to 50% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the emulsion according to the invention may comprise fillers.
• fillers By charges, it is necessary include colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar particles or not lamellar.
• the fillers may be present in the emulsion in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably 0.1% to 10%. Mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, starch, nitride boron, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate or microcrystalline cellulose, synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides such as those sold under the trade name of "Nylon", polytetrafluoroethylene (“Teflon”) and silicone powders.
• the emulsion according to the invention is fluid (flows under its own weight at ambient temperature) and can have a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C., at a shear rate of 200 min -1 (200 revolutions per minute). minute, ie a frequency of 50 Hz), ranging from 0.5 to 3.2 Pa.s (5 to 32 poise), and preferably ranging from 0.6 to 1.5 Pa.s (6 to 15 poise) .
• a viscosity allows easy application of the emulsion, and obtaining a homogeneous makeup, uniform and without traces.
• the viscosity is measured at 25 ° C with a CONTRAVES viscometer type TV equipped with a mobile No. 3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time after which there is a stabilization of the viscosity and speed rotation of the mobile) at a shear of 200 min -1 (200 revolutions per minute).
• compositions of the invention may contain one or many of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and / or thickeners; of the moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; of the anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives ; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; film-forming agents ; soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
• the quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
• moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates and polyols glycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and derivatives of sugar; natural extracts; anti-inflammatories; oligomers procyannidolics; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), the derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; the retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; the filters solar; hydrocortisone; melatonin; seaweed extracts, mushrooms, plants, yeasts, bacteria; enzymes; steroids; anti-bacterial assets such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphen
• the solar filters can be chosen from the filters organic, physical filters and their mixtures.
• titanium oxides amorphous titanium dioxide or crystallized rutile form and / or anatase
• zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or mixtures thereof can be in the form of particles having a micrometric or nanometric size (nano-pigments).
• nano-pigments the average particle sizes range, for example, from 5 to 100 nm.
• These pigments are preferably treated so as to render their surface hydrophobic; this treatment can be carried out according to the methods known to those skilled in the art; the pigments may in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMSs and / or with polymers.
• a foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition: Oily phase: Isostearyl palmitate 6 g cyclopentasiloxane 30 g Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil® EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 2.7 g Polyglyceryl isostearate-4 0.9 g Iron oxides coated with disodium salt of stearoyl glutamate 2 g Titanium oxide coated with disodium salt of stearoyl glutamate 9 g Nylon powder 5 g hectorite 0.5 g Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica (Aerosil R 972) 0.35 g Hollow microspheres (Expancel) 0.35 g Aqueous phase : Butylene glycol 5 g Magnesium sulfate 1 g PEG 20 1.7 g Conservatives qs Water qs 100 g
• the emulsion is prepared at room temperature on the one hand by mixing the pigments in one part of the cyclopentasiloxane, on the other hand by mixing the other oils with the surfactants and dispersing the hectorite, and then add the mixture of pigments and fillers with the other constituents of the fatty phase mixed.
• the mixture of the constituents of the aqueous phase is then prepared. poured into the mixture of the fatty phase, with stirring according to the known means for finally obtaining the emulsion.
• This foundation is stable after storage at room temperature (25 ° C) for 4 months, or even up to 8 months. It is easily applied on the skin with a good feeling to the touch, dries quickly after application, and makeup obtained has a good homogeneity of the color.
• a foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition: Oily phase: cyclohexasiloxane 33 g Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil® EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 4 g Iron oxides coated with disodium salt of stearoyl glutamate 2 g Titanium oxide coated with disodium salt of stearoyl glutamate 7 g hectorite 0.7 g Silica (Aerosil R 972) 0.6 g Aqueous phase : Glycerol 3 g Sodium chloride 0.5 g Conservatives qs Water qs 100 g
• the emulsion is prepared according to the same procedure described in Example 1.
• This foundation is stable after storage at room temperature (25 ° C) for 4 months, or even up to 8 months. It is easily applied on the skin with a good feeling to the touch, dries quickly during the application, and the obtained makeup has a good homogeneity of the color without leaving any traces.

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• 2002
  • 2002-05-02 FR FR0205512A patent/FR2839259B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2003
  • 2003-04-04 ES ES03290847T patent/ES2266745T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2003-04-04 EP EP03290847A patent/EP1358870B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2003-04-04 DE DE60306022T patent/DE60306022T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2003-04-04 AT AT03290847T patent/ATE329568T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2003-05-01 JP JP2003126655A patent/JP3950078B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime

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