Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
  • D04B9/42—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration
  • D04B9/44—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for producing goods of particular configuration elongated tubular articles of small diameter, e.g. coverings for cables
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
  • D04B1/243—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
  • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
  • D10B2403/01—Surface features
  • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
  • D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
  • D10B2501/02—Underwear
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
  • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
  • D10B2501/042—Headwear

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a method and an apparatus for automatically producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more complete openings or braces and products obtained thereby.
• a major aim of the present invention consists of providing a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitwear items in general with three-dimensional or shaped effects, provided with at least a complete shoulder strap or loop, preferably manufactured with the continuous motion of the needle cylinder.
• a further aim consists of providing a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitwear items, provided with at least a complete shoulder strap, brace or loop obtained without cutting and sewing operations.
• An additional aim consists of providing a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing knitwear items such as bras, panties, underwear and outerwear, skirts, trousers and technical items in general, obtained practically without fabric scraps.
• Another main aim consists of providing a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitwear items with complete braces or openings provided with simple or double edges, or with multiple layers, produced both with the aid of the dial, and with needles or sinkers suitable for the purpose, duly selected.
• a further main aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular items made of three-dimensional fabric produced with the fixed and prolonged exclusion of groups of needles also alternating or by groups, with other needles still operating. Disclosure of the Invention
• a method for automatically producing tubular knitwear items in knitting machines provided with at least a needlebed as defined in the claims, in particular comprising the step of producing a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course characterized in that it comprises the steps of producing at least a second length of tubular knitted fabric having at least a side opening by excluding a predetermined number of needles of the needlebed from the knit forming process for a predetermined time interval and producing a third length of tubular knitted fabric by automatic and programmed resumption of said predetermined number of needles of the needlebed in the knit forming process, said third length starting with a first stitch course.
• said predetermined number of needles excluded from the process completely releases the forming knitwear item.
• the needles excluded from the process are adjacent with each other.
• Figure 1 shows a tubular knitted fabric in which a panty to be cut and sewn is defined by dashed lines;
• Figure 2 shows a tubular knitted fabric in which an undershirt to be cut and sewn is defined by dashed lines;
• Figures 3 and 5 show the progressive transformation of a knit tube into a bra provided with shoulder straps
• Figure 4 is an enlarged view of a particular of fig. 3;
• Figure 6 shows the application of the invention to obtain a panty
• Figures 7 - 8 - 8 a - 9 technically show the steps required for the production of the three-dimensional knit frills Bi;
• Figure 10 shows the technical diagram for an "embossed" or cellular stitch structure
• Figures 11 - 12 -13 show the so-called "tuck stitch" of a needle
• Figures 14 - 15 - 16 and 17 show the missing stitch or welt of the needle; Figures 18 through 23 show various embodiments of knitwear items obtained in accordance with the invention;
• Figures 24-28 show the knit tube shaped with headgear functions
• Figure 29 shows a knitted fabric with a knit distorsion or hole
• Figure 30 shows a front view of a bra provided with a double edge and with a shoulder strap
• Figure 31 shows a side view of another bra provided with a double edge and with a shoulder strap;
• Figure 32 shows the horizontal or diagonal frills of Figure 31.
• the stitched tube of Figure 3 is manufactured starting from the double welt 2A with the aid of the hooks of the dial (not shown) .
• Figure 4 shows an enlargement of section 6 of the previous figure.
• the knit fabric 30, as a rule simple jersey, adjacent to the aforementioned lines 5 and 5A is preferably modified into operated jersey 7 by appropriately selecting the needles for knitting "non run" of the "unravelling" type, term known to the person versed in the art, characterised by knitting with tucked stitches and welts shown, among others, in Figures 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 of Table 2.
• one or more knitted courses immediately preceding the release of the loops along the line 5A are produced with the additional employment of a particular thermo-adhesive yarn, able to melt gradually at controlled temperatures during the finishing phase.
• the automatic release of the loops or stitching by the needles along the line or opening 5 (and/or 5A) produces the simple edges or borders 8 and 9, which, under normal conditions, tend to coil onto themselves, like 10 and 11.
• the so-called "waste”, initial or final - term known to the person versed in the art - can be positioned both internally and externally relative to the knitted tube.
• the release of the stitching by the needles can also be obtained in different ways or times, which may vary according to requirements or technical or textile factors.
• the machine or the work cycle is set to the "zero" position, all feeds are cancelled, the yarn feeders are excluded and all needles in non-working position are engaged to the last loops. Subsequently, only programmed needles are raised completely in a single feed in order to release the related loops or stitches.
• the knitted tube is engaged only to a part 5 of the needles and the knit-forming process resumes with a simple or double edge, or otherwise, depending on the article being manufactured, after the intervention of the mechanical or pneumatic movable elements serving as tab openers.
• the tubular knit item 1 of Fig. 5 an undershirt-bra or simple bra, is provided with the edge 2A normally engaged in correspondence with the central part Y but detached or separated, hence open laterally with the creation of the
• the central area 12 is structurally and functionally connected to the upper part Y of the braces 20 and 21 or to the other adjacent areas, able to support, by themselves or in mutual relationship, in a widely differentiated manner, the breasts.
• the reference DB indicates the double edge produced after the formation of the brace 20.
• the knitwear tube 1 is provided with the usual double edge 2A and with the edges DB and adjacent 2B. Therebetween are indicated the separation or discharge lines of the stitching 5 and 5A, longer than the similar lines described in Figures 3 - 4- 5 in accordance with the new work cycle or jacquard design.
• FIG. 18 shows the bra 1 and the panty 1A manufactured according to the invention.
• the central part of the aforementioned knitwear items is characterised by vertical areas characterised, in turn, by structures of operated stitching MO, similar to the interlaces indicated in Table 2, i.e. with a plurality or prevalence of tuck stitches, Fig. 10 - 12 and 13, or welts, Figures 14 and 15 together with one or more internal stitching frills or flounces Bi, Figure 8, opportunely located or superposed.
• the aforementioned vertical operated stitching areas MO are aimed, among other purposes, at the creation of an original aesthetic and functional effect: the central points indicated with the arrows F and FI, located in correspondence with the forward elastic edges 2, are amply displaced relative to the horizontal line represented by the respective rear edges 2B, shown in dashed lines.
• This displacement is caused by the simultaneous presence of two factors concurring in various ways in the final result: on one hand, the reduced presence of knit rows made scarcely elastic, relative to the surrounding areas; on the other hand, the presence of shoulder straps or loops 20-21 and 22-23 which "tend" respectively to raise, or to lower.
• An aesthetically pleasing and particularly appreciable result keeping in mind the natural structural elasticity of the jersey fabric, in particular.
• the aforementioned knitwear items are therefore strongly characterised by the presence of the upper shoulder straps 20 and 21 and by the lower loops 22 and 23, joined or overlapping with seat functions in this specific case.
• the items 1 and 1A . can further be enriched with hems or trimmings G produced either automatically through needle selection, for instance the so-called “mouse tooth”, term known to the person versed in the art, or by means of the addition of sewn ornamental material, required also if the item 1 is to be completed with the sleeves Ml and M2 sewn in correspondence with the lines S - SI, in Figure 21.
• the tubular knitwear item 1 of Figure 19 schematically shows a "teddy" or swimsuit or other similar garment provided with two upper braces 20 and 21, produced by the partial separation of the upper edge along the lines 5 and 5A, with the simple upper edges possibly coiled.
• Two other lower braces or loops 22 and 23 are also produced through the partial separation of the lower edge along the lines 5B and 5C.
• the item 1 therefore is provided with four braces obtained in correspondence with the two extremities of the knitwear tube, able to conform anatomically to the different parts of the human body.
• the lower central part K with seat functions is formed by the loops 22 and 23 fully set side by side and overlapping, folded downwards.
• the invention further develops with the manufacture of the knitwear item 1 shown in Figure 22 initially formed by the upper part A and by the lower part B, both provided with loops or braces 20 - 21 - 22 - 23 and with a double edge 2 produced in correspondence with the median part. Subsequently, a part is inserted into the other one to complete the knitwear item which, in this specific case, is formed by two concentric fabrics, provided with a variable number of shoulder straps, up to four.
• the knitwear item 1 shown in Figure 23 is also the knitwear item 1 shown in Figure 23; the interruption and programmed resumption of the knit-forming process in correspondence with the line 5 produces the automatic formation of the single wide brace 20A enhanced with the double edge 2.
• the programmed repetition of the interruption and the resumption of the knit-forming process produce, on the knitwear tube undergoing work, various openings such as 01 - 02, which can be characterised by simple edges BS, or by double edges DB in correspondence with the openings 03 and 04.
• the invention is realised in accordance with the method schematically shown in Figures 7 - 8 and 9.
• the aforementioned floating threads FF, Fig. 7, can be further manipulated with the use of some needles A, shown working in Fig. 8, duly spaced in the aforesaid total exclusion zone, with the dual purpose of reducing the length of the floating threads and create, if the case warrants it, pleasant knit interlaces.
• the invention is fully realised by further manipulating the aforesaid floating threads FF and transforming them into knit fabric produced only with a part of the needles present in the involved areas or zones. For instance, only even needles or alternating pairs of needles will be excluded; i.e. in groups of three operating needles followed by one or more excluded needles, and so on.
• Fig. 9 (corresponding to a high number of stitch knitted courses) is the sufficient and necessary condition for the manufacture of an original stitched fabric, formed by the working needles and related loops AD but interrupted and still interlaced with the excluded needles and loops AP, in order to produce a closed knit frill, with two layers or fabrics Bi, Fig. 8, inside the usual stitched tube.
• the aforementioned frills Bi formed by two layers or fabrics are inside the knit tube 1, only on the lower part.
• the density of the stitching 13 can be widened only in correspondence with the designated area 11 in order to accentuate the shaping or anatomical conformation effect, necessary in the case at hand.
• the lower part of the knit tube is in any case subject to the reduce density of stitching 12 or operated stitching MO, together with the presence of knit frills Bi produced with the previously described technique illustrated in Figure 7 - 8 - 9.
• Figure 25 shows the final effect, i.e the knit tube 1 duly shaped according to the arrow F; the internal knit frills Bi produced in correspondence with the neck effectively contribute to the final effect.
• Said knit item 1 can be produced indifferently as a mere head garment or as the initial or final part of a track suit, dress or other technical item.
• Figures 26 and 27 differ from the previous ones in some variations concerning the presence of a simple edge 32, with wound external waste 31 or simple wound edge 33 and 34.
• Fig. 28 shows the item 1 characterised in that at the start of the manufacture of the knit tube 35, a predetermined number of needles suitably positioned or spaced, also in groups, are excluded from the productive process for a certain time.
• This set-up produces a generally more transparent stitching in the sense of the columns or ribs, schematically represented by the dark horizontal lines.
• the start of work by said needles produces, among other effects, also knit distortions or the holes 36, Fig. 29, which, suitably positioned, also serve an aesthetic function.
• the ample flexibility of the ' invention allows to modify even substantially the shape and the functions of at least a part of the current knitwear and hosiery production with the described effects and results.
• the present description necessarily limited, provides the person versed in the art with broad margins for innovation, all falling within the scope and aims of the invention.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
• Knitting Machines (AREA)
• Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
• Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=11348041

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (9)

Families Citing this family (15)

Citations (2)

Family Cites Families (4)

• 1999
  • 1999-03-03 IT IT1999CO000009A patent/ITCO990009A1/it unknown
• 2000
  • 2000-03-01 CA CA002363117A patent/CA2363117A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-03-01 JP JP2000602851A patent/JP2002538324A/ja active Pending
  • 2000-03-01 EP EP00911241A patent/EP1157151A1/en not_active Withdrawn
  • 2000-03-01 AU AU33227/00A patent/AU3322700A/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-03-01 IL IL14491800A patent/IL144918A0/xx unknown
  • 2000-03-01 CN CNB008045089A patent/CN1195113C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2000-03-01 KR KR1020017010385A patent/KR20010102182A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-03-01 WO PCT/IT2000/000063 patent/WO2000052244A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation

Patent Citations (2)

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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