EP1071392B1 - Agent de modelage capillaire - Google Patents

Agent de modelage capillaire Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1071392B1
EP1071392B1 EP99920598A EP99920598A EP1071392B1 EP 1071392 B1 EP1071392 B1 EP 1071392B1 EP 99920598 A EP99920598 A EP 99920598A EP 99920598 A EP99920598 A EP 99920598A EP 1071392 B1 EP1071392 B1 EP 1071392B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
hair
oil
keratin
reducing agent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP99920598A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1071392A1 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Förster
Daniela Prinz
Martina Hollenbrock
Burkhard Müller
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1071392A1 publication Critical patent/EP1071392A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1071392B1 publication Critical patent/EP1071392B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B82—NANOTECHNOLOGY
    • B82Y—SPECIFIC USES OR APPLICATIONS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MEASUREMENT OR ANALYSIS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MANUFACTURE OR TREATMENT OF NANOSTRUCTURES
    • B82Y5/00—Nanobiotechnology or nanomedicine, e.g. protein engineering or drug delivery
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm

Definitions

  • Permanent shaping agents and Hair straighteners understood.
  • Cold permanent waving agents contain reducing agents, which reduce the disulfide bonds of hair keratin to mercapto groups.
  • strong alkalis e.g. Alkali hydroxides, ammonia or alkanolamines as well other substances that swell on keratin, e.g. Urea, guanidine or imidazole be included.
  • Hair straighteners also contain strong keratin swelling agents, mostly in Combination with keratin reducing agents. The hair can be before or after treatment mechanically deformed with these means, e.g. be wound on winder. If then some of the keratin disulfide bridges were re-linked by a mild oxidation the deformation is fixed.
  • the action of the keratin reducing agent is not completely reversible, but has some undesirable side effects. Because not all disulfide bonds are restored the durability of the deformation (curl retention) is not optimal and the strength of the hair fiber is reduced. Even the outer cuticle of the hair, the So - called cuticle is attacked so that the hair becomes rough and difficult to comb and has a blunt handle.
  • phase inversion very fine-particle emulsions with average droplet sizes of less than 200 nm can be produced with limited amounts of hydrophilic emulsifiers, as a carrier for Hair styling agents are surprisingly well suited, and the properties of the influence deformed hair particularly favorably.
  • the invention therefore relates to a method for permanent hair shaping the hair before or after mechanical deformation with a Keratin reducing agents treated, rinsed and fixed with an oxidizing agent in which a finely divided oil-in-water emulsion is used to reduce keratin a content of at least 1% by weight of a water-soluble keratin reducing agent and at least 1% by weight of an emulsified oil or fat component with a medium one Droplet size of less than 200 nm and less than 0.4 part by weight of one hydrophilic emulsifier, based on 1 part by weight of the oil or fat component, used.
  • keratin reducing agents As water-soluble keratin reducing agents, keratin reducing substances, selected from the group of mercapto compounds, phosphines and sulfites used.
  • Suitable mercapto compounds are the water-soluble salts of Mercaptocarboxylic acids with 2 - 4 carbon atoms, e.g. thioglycolic acid and Thiolactic acid, e.g. Ammonium thioglycolate, sodium or potassium thioglycolate, Monoethanolamine thioglycolate or the corresponding thiolactates and cysteine and Cysteamine.
  • Preferred sulfites are the alkali, ammonium and alkanolammonium salts of sulfurous acid and disulfuric acid, for example sodium sulfite (Na 2 SO 3 ) or sodium disulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 5 ).
  • Preferred keratin-reducing agents are 1-20% by weight of a keratin-reducing agent Substance selected from the group of mercapto compounds, phosphines or Contain sulfites.
  • Another object of the invention is a preparation for performing the Keratin-reducing step in a process for permanent hair shaping in shape a finely divided oil-in-water emulsion with a content of at least 1% by weight a water-soluble keratin reducing agent and at least 1% by weight of one emulsified oil or fat component with an average droplet size of less than 200 nm and less than 0.4 part by weight of a hydrophilic emulsifier, based on 1 Part by weight of the oil or fat component.
  • Oil or fat components are understood to be all lipids insoluble in water, however, preference is given to those which are stable to hydrolysis even in strongly basic media. Suitable oil or fat components are e.g. Paraffins (petroleum jelly), paraffin oils, squalane, Fatty alcohols (e.g. cetyl and stearyl alcohol), 2-octyldodecanol, dialkyl ether etc. Triglycerides and other ester oils are less suitable.
  • Particularly preferred oil components in terms of stability in the strongly basic Medium and on the production of the fine-particle emulsions are low molecular weight, liquid hydrocarbons with 8 - 36 C atoms, dialkyl ethers with 12 - 36 C atoms or mixtures of these components.
  • Suitable low molecular weight hydrocarbons are especially branched hydrocarbons or synthetic products such as 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol®S.
  • suitable Dialkyl ethers are e.g. Cetyl isopropyl ether, stearyl methyl ether or symmetrical dialkyl ether such as. Di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol®OE.
  • the oil components are preferably present in amounts of 5-20% by weight.
  • Fatty alcohol polyglycol ether caused by the addition of more than 1 part by weight Ethylene oxide are available in 1 part by weight of a fatty alcohol with 12-22 carbon atoms.
  • emulsifiers are e.g. the adduct of 10 moles of ethylene oxide (EO) on behenyl alcohol, which is commercially available under the name Mergital®B10, or the adduct of 12 moles of ethylene oxide on a technical cetyl / stearyl alcohol cut, which is commercially available under the name Eumulgin®B1.
  • Fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers with HLB values in the range of 10 are preferred until 18
  • the fine particle size of the emulsion according to the invention can e.g. after the so-called Achieve PIT processes in that in the preparation of the emulsion nonionic emulsifiers used and the emulsion in the manufacture of the Phase inversion temperature warmed.
  • the procedure is e.g. in DE 40 10 393 A1 for polar oil components described.
  • the choice of the HLB value is less critical and the use of co-emulsifiers can be dispensed with if necessary become.
  • phase inversion process usually results in very fine-particle emulsions obtained, whose average particle size is in the range of 50-200 nm, i.e. it deals are not yet clear microemulsions whose average droplet size is less than 50 nm lies and which should be free of particles above 100 nm in order to be completely transparent appear.
  • the typical PIT emulsions suitable according to the invention are opalescent and have a bluish appearance in reflected light, brownish appearance in transmitted light. It can in particular favorable cases but also for the formation of clear or transparent Microemulsions are coming.
  • the pH value is practically the same and the same concentration of reducing agent, the durability of the deformation Use of a fine-particle emulsion significantly higher than with an aqueous solution.
  • the sensors of the deformed hair especially when using sulfite or Disulfite as a keratin reducing substance is very unsatisfactory due to use the fine-particle emulsion according to the invention significantly improved.
  • Gloss, volume, Combability and smoothness of the hair are compared to an aqueous solution of the Reducing agent increased significantly. This applies particularly to the combability of the treated hair, which is a measure of the surface texture of the cuticle.
  • the emulsifier and the Keratin reducing agents can be used in the preparations according to the invention.
  • Auxiliary substances may be included, which either have the application properties or the appearance and sensory properties of the preparations or with them Improve deformed hair.
  • Keratolytic, keratin-swelling substances reinforce that faster and deeper Allow the reducing substances to penetrate the hair structure.
  • Such substances are e.g. Urea, guanidine, imidazole, organic amines, e.g. Alkanolamines or arginine, Glycol ether, glycerin and lower alcohols with 1 - 4 - C atoms.
  • Urea guanidine
  • imidazole organic amines
  • e.g. Alkanolamines or arginine e.g. Alkanolamines or arginine, Glycol ether, glycerin and lower alcohols with 1 - 4 - C atoms.
  • imidazole or monoethanolamine used.
  • Alkalizing agents such as Alkali hydroxide, ammonia or ammonium carbonate the effect of the keratin-swelling components is further enhanced.
  • the viscosity of the preparation according to the invention for carrying out the keratin-reducing step is preferably set so that the agent slightly on the mechanically deformed, e.g. hair attached to curlers or papillots can and penetrates the strands of hair, but not easily dripping or on the Scalp is running.
  • a viscosity of 1000 to 10,000 mPa ⁇ s (25 ° C., D. 10 / s).
  • Preparations preferably thickeners for the outer, aqueous phase.
  • All water-soluble natural and synthetic thickeners are suitable polymeric hydrocolloids, but also inorganic thickeners, e.g. phyllosilicates (e.g. bentonite) or thickening silicas.
  • Suitable natural thickeners are e.g. Agar-agar, guar-gum, Locust bean gum, starches and pectins; synthetic hydrocolloids are e.g. the water-soluble cellulose derivatives, e.g. Carboxymethyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose, cross-linked polyacrylic acids, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene oxides. Biopolymers such as xanthan gum or are also particularly suitable Gellan gum.
  • Particularly low-viscosity preparations are suitable for use as aerosol foam using suitable propellants, such as nitrogen oxide (N 2 O), dimethyl ether, butane or 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane.
  • suitable propellants such as nitrogen oxide (N 2 O), dimethyl ether, butane or 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane.
  • fragrances or odor correctives are used, have alkali-stable, aldehydic and hydrolytically cleavable components free perfume oils are preferred.
  • auxiliaries e.g. Opacifiers, dyes, buffer substances, Complexing agents and other surfactants may be included, but the total amount Do not exceed the limit of 0.4 parts by weight per part by weight of the oil component should.
  • the method according to the invention uses for the further process steps, e.g. For the oxidative fixation customary preparations known for permanent waving.
  • usual Components of the aqueous fixing solution are oxidizing agents such as e.g. Hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, surface-active compounds, stabilizers, Fragrances and acids, e.g. Citric acid or tartaric acid to adjust a pH from 3 - 5.
  • Pretreatment using a preparation with hair-protecting components e.g. with cationic polymers or leveling components such as Glucose or sorbitol can be performed.
  • Such post-treatment agents can e.g. Salts of two or trivalent metals, e.g. Calcium or aluminum salts, preferably from Hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Contain lactic acid, citric acid or tartaric acid.
  • the aqueous preparations for performing the method according to the invention immediately one after the other on the mechanically deformed and by winder or When hair is attached to papillots, it is particularly beneficial if the Preparations for performing the method according to the invention for a Single use of suitable and coordinated quantities separately packaged, combined in a sales unit, offered. In this way can also be used for the non-professional home application of the method create sufficient security that the user in quantity and concentration optimally coordinated preparations for keratin reduction and fixation used. Another variation is that you look into the sales unit The corrugating agent and fixing solution also integrated a separately packaged activator, the front the application of the wave agent (keratin reducing agent) is combined with this and leads to an increase in temperature in the keratin reducing agent.
  • the wave agent Keratin reducing agent
  • the dry combability value [in mJ] is the mean work integral over all 20 Sample strands.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Nanotechnology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • General Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Medical Informatics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
  • Chemical And Physical Treatments For Wood And The Like (AREA)
  • Agricultural Chemicals And Associated Chemicals (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Procédé pour la déformation permanente des cheveux, dans lequel les cheveux sont traités par un réducteur de la kératine, avant et/ou après une déformation mécanique, rincés et fixés à l'aide d'un oxydant,
    caractérisé en ce qu'
    on utilise pour la réduction de la kératine une émulsion huile-dans-eau finement divisée, contenant au moins 1 % en poids d'un réducteur de kératine soluble dans l'eau et au moins 1 % en poids d'un composant de type huile ou graisse émulsionné, ayant une taille moyenne de gouttelettes de moins de 200 nm, et moins de 0,4 partie en poids d'un émulsifiant hydrophile, par rapport à 1 partie en poids du composant de type huile ou graisse.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1,
    caractérisé en ce que
    comme réducteur de kératine soluble dans l'eau, sont contenus 1-20 % en poids d'une substance réduisant la kératine, choisie dans le groupe des composés mercapto, des phosphines tertiaires et des sulfites.
  3. Préparation pour l'exécution de l'étape de réduction de la kératine dans un procédé pour la déformation permanente des cheveux, sous forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau finement divisée, contenant au moins 1 % en poids d'un réducteur de kératine soluble dans l'eau et au moins 1 % en poids d'un composant de type huile ou graisse émulsionné, ayant une taille moyenne de gouttelettes de moins de 200 nm, et moins de 0,4 partie en poids d'un émulsifiant hydrophile, par rapport à 1 partie en poids du composant de type graisse ou huile.
  4. Préparation selon la revendication 3,
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elle contient comme composant de type huile ou graisse émulsionné au moins un hydrocarbure liquide ayant au total de 8 à 36 atomes de carbone, ou un éther dialkylique ayant au total de 12 à 36 atomes de carbone, ou un mélange de ceux-ci, en une quantité de 5-20 % en poids.
  5. Préparation selon la revendication 3 ou 4,
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elle contient en tant que réducteur de la kératine un sel de métal alcalin ou d'ammonium de l'acide thioglycolique, de l'acide thiolactique ou de l'acide sulfureux.
  6. Préparation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 3 à 5,
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elle contient comme réducteur de la kératine un sulfite et en outre une substance faisant gonfler la kératine, choisie parmi l'urée, l'imidazole et la monoéthanolamine.
  7. Préparation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 3 à 6,
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elle contient en outre des épaississants pour la phase aqueuse externe.
EP99920598A 1998-04-15 1999-04-06 Agent de modelage capillaire Expired - Lifetime EP1071392B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19816662 1998-04-15
DE19816662A DE19816662A1 (de) 1998-04-15 1998-04-15 Haarverformungsmittel
PCT/EP1999/002324 WO1999052496A1 (fr) 1998-04-15 1999-04-06 Agent de modelage capillaire

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1071392A1 EP1071392A1 (fr) 2001-01-31
EP1071392B1 true EP1071392B1 (fr) 2002-07-03

Family

ID=7864584

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP99920598A Expired - Lifetime EP1071392B1 (fr) 1998-04-15 1999-04-06 Agent de modelage capillaire

Country Status (14)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1071392B1 (fr)
KR (1) KR20010042734A (fr)
CN (1) CN1297348A (fr)
AT (1) ATE219925T1 (fr)
AU (1) AU3812999A (fr)
BR (1) BR9909609A (fr)
CA (1) CA2328997A1 (fr)
DE (2) DE19816662A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2180299T3 (fr)
NO (1) NO20005144D0 (fr)
PL (1) PL196929B1 (fr)
SK (1) SK15152000A3 (fr)
TR (1) TR200002816T2 (fr)
WO (1) WO1999052496A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10028848B4 (de) * 2000-06-16 2004-02-05 Rudolf Bauer Verfahren zur Haarumformung, Wachs/Mehl-Zubereitung und Reduktions- und Stützmischung
FR2811564B1 (fr) * 2000-07-13 2002-12-27 Oreal Nanoemulsion contenant des polymeres non ioniques, et ses utilisations notamment dans les domaines cosmetique, dermatologique, pharmaceutique et/ou ophtalmologique
DE10142476A1 (de) * 2001-08-31 2003-03-20 Wella Ag Itaconsäuremonoester/Acrylat Copolymer enthaltendes, gelförmiges Haarbehandlungsmittel
FR2834208A1 (fr) * 2002-01-02 2003-07-04 Oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme de dispersion pigmentaire anhydre
DE102004043368A1 (de) * 2004-09-08 2006-03-09 Henkel Kgaa Hautschonende Wellmittel
DE102004061610A1 (de) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-22 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetisches Kit zur Haar-und Kopfhautbehandlung
DE102005061021A1 (de) * 2005-12-19 2007-06-21 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zum Verformen keratinhaliger Fasern
CN107988798A (zh) * 2017-11-09 2018-05-04 太和县祥瑞工艺品有限公司 一种高柔顺度的顺发发把的加工工艺
US20220273551A1 (en) * 2021-02-28 2022-09-01 L'oreal Hair cosmetic compositions

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3608151A1 (de) * 1986-03-12 1987-09-17 Wella Ag Verwendung von dipropylenglykolmonomethylether in haarverformungsmitteln
DE3833681A1 (de) * 1988-10-04 1990-04-05 Henkel Kgaa Dauerwellmittel
EP0645998A4 (fr) * 1993-04-23 1996-10-16 Croda Inc Produits de traitement capillaire micro-emulsifies et procedes de preparation.
DE4332805A1 (de) * 1993-09-27 1994-08-11 Henkel Kgaa Dauerwellmittel

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2180299T3 (es) 2003-02-01
DE59901941D1 (de) 2002-08-08
PL343446A1 (en) 2001-08-13
WO1999052496A1 (fr) 1999-10-21
BR9909609A (pt) 2000-12-19
TR200002816T2 (tr) 2001-01-22
ATE219925T1 (de) 2002-07-15
EP1071392A1 (fr) 2001-01-31
NO20005144L (no) 2000-10-13
KR20010042734A (ko) 2001-05-25
SK15152000A3 (sk) 2001-04-09
CN1297348A (zh) 2001-05-30
NO20005144D0 (no) 2000-10-13
AU3812999A (en) 1999-11-01
CA2328997A1 (fr) 1999-10-21
DE19816662A1 (de) 1999-10-21
PL196929B1 (pl) 2008-02-29

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