EP0974338A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological care compositions containing fatty acids - Google Patents

Cosmetic and dermatological care compositions containing fatty acids Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0974338A2
EP0974338A2 EP99113498A EP99113498A EP0974338A2 EP 0974338 A2 EP0974338 A2 EP 0974338A2 EP 99113498 A EP99113498 A EP 99113498A EP 99113498 A EP99113498 A EP 99113498A EP 0974338 A2 EP0974338 A2 EP 0974338A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acids
wax
fatty acids
cosmetic
skin
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP99113498A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0974338A3 (en
Inventor
Ghita Dr. Lanzendörfer
Volker Dr. Schreiner
Günther Dr. Schneider
Florian Dr. Wolf
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP0974338A2 publication Critical patent/EP0974338A2/en
Publication of EP0974338A3 publication Critical patent/EP0974338A3/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212—Face masks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to dry care and cleaning preparations stressed skin and aging skin as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage skin dehydration, as is the case, for example, with treatment with washing-active substances Substances can occur.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the Skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevented, probably the most important. At the same time the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of outside materials. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. With about a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • the epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which is the important part for the barrier function. It will be in Worn out contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant renewal process, where fine scales are continuously released to the outside and from the inside cornified cell and lipid material is reproduced.
  • stratum corneum stratum corneum
  • the skin model of Elias ( P. M. Elias , Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier , Drug Dev . Res . 13 , 1988 , 97-105 ), which is recognized by experts today, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similarly a brick wall (brick-mortar model).
  • the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks
  • the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through.
  • the special structure of the horny layer protects the skin on the one hand and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water.
  • the regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it does not only have a barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, but also contributes to the cohesion of the Horny layer at.
  • the lipids of the horny layer essentially consist of ceramides, free fatty acids, Cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate and are distributed over the entire horny layer.
  • the Composition of these lipids is essential for the intact function of the epidermal barrier and therefore of crucial importance for the impermeability of the skin.
  • the skin's barrier effect can be determined by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) can be quantified. It refers to the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating.
  • the determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extraordinary proven informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, for determination the compatibility of chemically different types of surfactants and the like be used.
  • Anionic surfactants which are generally components of cleaning preparations can increase the pH in the horny layer for a long time, which is regenerative Processes that restore and renew the barrier function of the skin, severely disabled.
  • the horny layer is between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium, which affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer is decisively impaired.
  • Skin care in the sense of the present invention is primarily to be understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, Lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms
  • the loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, Lipids, electrolytes
  • Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited in time.
  • the effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer is essentially based on the covering (occlusion) of the treated skin areas.
  • the ointment or cream is a (second) artificial barrier, so to speak prevent water loss from the skin.
  • This physical can be correspondingly easily Barrier - for example with detergents - can be removed again, causing the original, impaired state is reached again.
  • the Reduce skin care effect with regular treatment. After stopping the Product application very quickly returns the skin to the state before the start of treatment back. With certain products, the skin condition worsens below Even temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.
  • the effect of nourishing cleaning products essentially consists in an efficient one Regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances.
  • the surfactant content of such preparations can damage the horny layer barrier limit further.
  • the prior art lacks preparations which have the barrier function and positively influence the hydration of the horny layer and the physicochemical Properties of the horny layer and especially the lamellae made of intercellular lipids strengthen or even restore.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove.
  • skin care preparations and preparations for cleaning The skin is made available which is the barrier properties of the skin maintain or restore, especially when the skin's natural regeneration not enough. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to the Drying out of the skin, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis.
  • Object of the present invention it was also available to provide stable skin care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents to protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable his.
  • fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures which can be obtained by saponification of waxes or wax mixtures are.
  • the waxes or wax mixtures used as the starting product can be used as natural products have different compositions.
  • Waxes are fatty acid esters found in animal and vegetable products, but differ from fats and oils in that that the underlying fatty acids are not with glycerin, but with higher, primary, monohydric alcohols are esterified.
  • Advantageous fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures are, for example, from beeswax, China wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes available.
  • Beeswax z. B. is an excretion product from the glands of honeybees that this use to build the honeycomb. Yellow (Cera flava), brown or red So-called raw wax can be obtained, for example, by using honey Extracting freed honeycombs melts, separating the melt from solid impurities and solidify the raw wax thus obtained.
  • the raw wax can be treated with Oxidizing agents are bleached completely white (Cera alba).
  • Beeswax consists of cerin, which is readily soluble in alcohol, a mixture of cerotinic acid CH 3 (CH 2 ) 24 COOH and melissic acid CH 3 (CH 2 ) 28 COOH as well as an ester mixture called myricin from approx. 70 esters from C 16 - to C 38 acids and C 24 to C 36 alcohols.
  • Myricyl palmitate, myricylcerotinate and paraffin are found as essential components of beeswax.
  • China wax z. B. is used in China and Japan of the wax scale insect (Coccus ceriferus) living on the Chinese ash and the Scale insects Ceroplastes ceriferus and Ericerus pela separated or produced. It is scraped off the trees and cleaned by remelting in boiling water.
  • the main component of the China wax is the cerotinic ester of ceryl alcohol.
  • Cuticular waxes can preferably be used lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, Rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, Leaf waxes from conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like more.
  • Candelilla waxes e.g. B. are brownish to yellowish brown, hard wax-like masses, which are soluble in lipophilic solvents.
  • Candelilla wax contains odd aliphatic Hydrocarbons (approx. 42%), esters (approx. 39%), wax acids and wax alcohols. It can be obtained, for example, from the shredded, fleshy leaves of one spikeless milkweed (Euphorbia cerifera) by boiling with aqueous sulfuric acid.
  • Carnauba wax is a yellowish, greenish or dark gray mass, which is available in different qualities obtained through selection from the leaves of the Brazilian fan palm Copernicia prunifera or Carnauba palm (Carnauba cerifera) can be obtained can, for example, by brushing the wax dust off the withered fronds, melted, filtered and broken into pieces after solidification.
  • Carnauba wax can be lightened with bleach. It contains about 85% esters, each about 2-3% free wax acids (carnauba, behenic, lignoceric, melissic and cerotic acids), long-chain Alcohols, diols and saturated hydrocarbons.
  • Japanese wax also: Japanese tallow or Cera japonica
  • the main components of the Japanese wax are palmitic acid glycerol esters and esters of japanese acid (heneicosanedioic acid, C 21 H 40 O 4 ), phellogenic acid (docosanedioic acid, C 22 H 42 O 4 ) and tricosanedioic acid (C 23 H 44 O 4 ).
  • Esparto wax is a by-product of the pulp and paper industry Mediterranean countries were home to esparto grass (Graminaceae). There are too about 15 up to 17% from wax acids (e.g. cerotinic and melissic acid), up to 20 to 22% from alcohols and hydrocarbons and 63 to 65% from esters.
  • wax acids e.g. cerotinic and melissic acid
  • the fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures according to the invention are available, for example, by saponifying the waxes or wax mixtures using conventional methods. Low However, proportions of fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures according to the invention are also by Distillation from waxes or wax mixtures available.
  • the waxes or wax mixtures are in raw and / or Pre-cleaned - for example bleached - form in a manner known per se, for example with a base, preferably alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and / or potassium hydroxide (KOH) in alcohols, water or mixtures thereof, preferably but in alcohols such as methanol or ethanol, especially at pH 12 to 14, saponified.
  • alcoholic KOH solution is particularly preferred, in particular of ethanolic potassium hydroxide solution.
  • Insect and / or plant wax hydrolysates which are advantageous according to the invention and contain unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 are also obtained by the acidic hydrolysis of waxes or wax mixtures, for example by Hydrolysis with inorganic mineral acids, such as. As boric acid, hydrochloric acid, nitrous and / or nitric acid, sulfurous and / or sulfuric acid, the various phosphoric acids and the like more and / or with acid salts of the elements of the 1st to 3rd main group and / or with organic acids, such as. B. formic acid and / or acetic acid.
  • inorganic mineral acids such as boric acid, hydrochloric acid, nitrous and / or nitric acid, sulfurous and / or sulfuric acid, the various phosphoric acids and the like more and / or with acid salts of the elements of the 1st to 3rd main group and
  • the cleavage essentially gives two fractions, one of which is predominantly Alcohols and the other mainly contains fatty acids and hydroxy fatty acids.
  • water-immiscible solvents are, for example halogen-free, e.g. As petroleum ether or n-heptane, or halogenated, especially chlorinated Hydrocarbons.
  • the aqueous phase is then treated with an acid, for example with a mineral acid, preferably acidified with 1/10 to 1/2 normal hydrochloric acid, and preferably so plenty of water or acid until a pH of about 3 is reached.
  • an acid for example with a mineral acid, preferably acidified with 1/10 to 1/2 normal hydrochloric acid, and preferably so plenty of water or acid until a pH of about 3 is reached.
  • the separated fatty acid is filtered off or with water-immiscible ones Solvents such as halogen-free, e.g. B. petroleum ether or n-heptane, or halogenated, in particular chlorinated hydrocarbons, e.g. B. Trichloromethane extracted.
  • Solvents such as halogen-free, e.g. B. petroleum ether or n-heptane, or halogenated, in particular chlorinated hydrocarbons, e.g. B. Trichloromethane extracted.
  • a purified acid mixture in particular a hydroxyfatty acid mixture and / or fatty acid mixture
  • a purified acid mixture is obtained, for example, from a beeswax mixture.
  • the process preferably produces fatty acid fractions from beeswax mixtures which contain between 10 and 90% by weight of fatty acids, which particularly preferably have a chain length of C 20 to C 36 .
  • Fatty acid fractions that can be obtained from plant waxes preferably also contain fatty acids with a significantly longer chain length.
  • insect and / or plant wax hydrolysates containing unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 which can be obtained, for example, by the process mentioned, directly in cosmetic or use dermatological preparations.
  • the described method can be followed by further enrichment of the alcoholic components by distillation.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations or formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and for treatment, care and cleaning the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in the decorative Serve cosmetics. Correspondingly, depending on their structure, they can be used, for example are used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sun protection lotion, nutrient cream, Day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the inventive To use preparations as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain z. B. 0.001 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations of the inventive Active substances.
  • Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the Form of a sunscreen. These preferably contain one or several active substances according to the invention at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be cosmetic Contain auxiliary substances, as they are usually used in such preparations be, e.g. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent the Foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • auxiliary substances e.g. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent the Foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as
  • Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological agents according to the invention are used Preparations in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or the hair in sufficient Amount applied.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various Shapes are available. So you can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to present the active compounds according to the invention in encapsulated form, for. B. in collagen matrices and other common encapsulation materials, e.g. B. as cellulose encapsulations, encapsulated in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomal. In particular Wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have proven to be cheap exposed.
  • the inventive ones Active substances in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and insert the hair.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also contain antioxidants.
  • antioxidants According to the invention can be used as favorable antioxidants all suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications Antioxidants are used.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • aurothioglucose As dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and Lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulf one, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses e.g. B. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid
  • Bile extracts bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g. vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives ⁇ - (z. B.
  • ZnO, ZnSO 4 rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzklare, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof S elen and its derivatives (e.g. B.
  • stilbenes and their derivatives for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the invention Preparations are preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations out of the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Skin oil I. II III Cetyl palmitate 3.00 3.00 3.00 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 2.00 2.00 Polyisobutene 10.00 10.00 10.00 Squalane 2.00 2.00 2.00 Beeswax acids 0.50 - - Cork wax acids - 0.50 - Japanese wax acids - - 0.50 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. Paraffin oil ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Bath oil I. II III Paraffin oil 20.00 20.00 20.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 5.00 5.00 Beeswax acids 0.50 - - Sesame wax acids - 0.50 - Candelilla wax acids - - 0.50 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. Soybean oil ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Soap bar I. II III Na salt from tallow fatty acids 60.00 60.00 60.00 Na salt from coconut oil 28.00 28.00 28.00 Sodium chloride 0.50 0.50 0.50 Beeswax acids 0.10 - - Rice wax acids - 0.10 - Candelilla wax acids - - 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Syndet soap I. II III Sodium lauryl sulfate 30.00 30.00 30.00 Sodium sulfosuccinate 10.00 10.00 10.00 Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dimethicone copolyol 2.00 2.00 2.00 paraffin 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cornstarch 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 Beeswax acids 1.00 - - Sesame wax acids - 1.00 - Apple wax acids - - 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • hair conditioner I. II III Cocoamidopropyl betaine 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 Propylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 Citric acid 0.30 0.30 0.30 Beeswax acids 1.00 - - Sesame wax acids - 1.00 - Carnauba wax acids - - 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Hair fastener I. II III Polyvinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate copolymer 5.00 5.00 5.00 Ethanol 45.00 45.00 45.00 Beeswax acids 1.00 - - Candelilla wax acids - 1.00 - Apple wax acids - - 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Aerosol spray I. II III Octyldodecanol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Beeswax acids 0.20 - - Coffee wax acids - 0.20 - Apple wax acids - - 0.20 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. Ethanol ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • the liquid phase obtained by mixing the respective components together together with a propane-butane mixture (2: 7) in a ratio of 39:61 in an aerosol container bottled.
  • Roll-on gel I. II III 1,3-butylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 2.00 2.00 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.50 0.50 0.50 Beeswax acids 0.30 - - China wax acids - 0.30 - Japanese wax acids - - 0.30 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Roll-on emulsion I. II III Triceteareth phosphate 0.30 0.30 0.30 Octyldodecanol 2.00 2.00 2.00 C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 2.00 2.00 C 10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.15 0.15 0.15 Beeswax acids 0.30 - - Lemon balm wax acids - 0.30 - Apple wax acids - - 0.30 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Emulsion makeup I. II III Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 7.50 7.50 7.50 Lecithin 2.00 2.00 2.00 Distarch phosphate 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50 Glycerin 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Magnesium silicate 1.00 1.00 1.00 mica 1.00 1.00 1.00 Iron oxides 1.00 1.00 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 2.50 2.50 talc 5.00 5.00 Tapioca starch 0.25 0.25 0.25 Beeswax acids 0.30 - - Rice wax acids - 0.30 - Sesame wax acids - - 0.30 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • mascara I. II III Stearic acid 5.00 5.00 lanolin 5.00 5.00 5.00 Magnesium aluminum silicate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Cyclomethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50 Pigment mixture 5.00 5.00 5.00 Beeswax acids 1.00 - - Candelilla wax acids - 1.00 - Sesame wax acids - - 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • Eyeshadow I. II III Acetylated lanolin alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetylacetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Paraffin oil 5.00 5.00 5.00 Polysorbate 80 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cyclomethicone 2.00 2.00 2.00 Glyceryl monostearate 4.50 4.50 4.50 Stearic acid 13.50 13.50 13.50 Pigment mixture 10.00 10.00 10.00 Beeswax acids 1.00 - - Rice wax acids - 1.00 - Sesame wax acids - - 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s. q.s. q.s. water ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00

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Abstract

Use of long chain unbranched saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids in skin care compositions to restore or to enhance the barrier properties of the epidermis. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of unbranched, saturated and/or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids with a chain length of 22 C - 60 C, the acids being used singly or in combination.

Description

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft Zubereitungen zur Pflege und Reinigung trockener und beanspruchter Haut und Altershaut sowie zur Behandlung und Prophylaxe von Folgeschäden der Hautaustrocknung, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Behandlung mit waschaktiven Substanzen auftreten können.The present invention relates to dry care and cleaning preparations stressed skin and aging skin as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage skin dehydration, as is the case, for example, with treatment with washing-active substances Substances can occur.

Die Haut ist das größte Organ des Menschen. Unter ihren vielen Funktionen (beispielsweise zur Wärmeregulation und als Sinnesorgan) ist die Barrierefunktion, die das Austrocknen der Haut (und damit letzlich des gesamten Organismus) verhindert, die wohl wichtigste. Gleichzeitig wirkt die Haut als Schutzeinrichtung gegen das Eindringen und die Aufnahme von außen kommender Stoffe. Bewirkt wird diese Barrierefunktion durch die Epidermis, welche als äußerste Schicht die eigentliche Schutzhülle gegenüber der Umwelt bildet. Mit etwa einem Zehntel der Gesamtdicke ist sie gleichzeitig die dünnste Schicht der Haut.The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the Skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevented, probably the most important. At the same time the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of outside materials. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. With about a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

Die Epidermis ist ein stratifiziertes Gewebe, in dem die äußere Schicht, die Hornschicht (Stratum corneum), den für die Barrierefunktion bedeutenden Teil darstellt. Sie wird im Kontakt mit der Umwelt abgenutzt und befindet deshalb sich in einem ständigen Erneuerungsprozess, wobei nach außen kontinuierlich feine Schuppen abgegeben und von innen verhorntes Zell- und Lipidmaterial nachproduziert wird.The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which is the important part for the barrier function. It will be in Worn out contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant renewal process, where fine scales are continuously released to the outside and from the inside cornified cell and lipid material is reproduced.

Das heute in der Fachwelt anerkannte Hautmodell von Elias (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13 , 1988, 97-105) beschreibt die Hornschicht als Zwei-Komponenten-System, ähnlich einer Ziegelsteinmauer (Ziegelstein-Mörtel-Modell). In diesem Modell entsprechen die Hornzellen (Korneozyten) den Ziegelsteinen, die komplex zusammengesetzte Lipidmembran in den Interzellularräumen entspricht dem Mörtel. Dieses System stellt im wesentlichen eine physikalische Barriere gegen hydrophile Substanzen dar, kann aber aufgrund seiner engen und mehrschichtigen Struktur gleichermaßen auch von lipophilen Substanzen nur schwer passiert werden. Die besondere Struktur der Hornschicht schützt einerseits die Haut und stabilisiert andererseits ihre eigene Flexibilität durch Bindung einer definierten Wassermenge.The skin model of Elias ( P. M. Elias , Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier , Drug Dev . Res . 13 , 1988 , 97-105 ), which is recognized by experts today, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similarly a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through. The special structure of the horny layer protects the skin on the one hand and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water.

Auch mechanische Belastungen, wie beispielsweise Druck-, Stoß- oder Scherkräfte, können in erstaunlichem Maße durch die Hornschicht allein oder im Verbund mit den tieferen Hautschichten abgefangen werden. Größere Druck-, Dreh- oder Scherkräfte werden über die Verzahnung der Epidermis mit dem Corium an tiefere Hautschichten weitergegeben.Mechanical loads, such as pressure, impact or shear forces, can also to an astonishing degree by the horny layer alone or in combination with the deeper ones Skin layers are caught. Larger compressive, rotational or shear forces are over the intermeshing of the epidermis with the corium is passed on to deeper layers of the skin.

Die Regulation des Wasser- und Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes ist eine der wichtigsten Funktionen der epidermalen Lipidmembran. Allerdings hat sie nicht nur eine Barrierewirkung gegen externe chemische und physikalische Einflüsse, sondern trägt auch zum Zusammenhalt der Hornschicht bei.The regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it does not only have a barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, but also contributes to the cohesion of the Horny layer at.

Die Lipide der Hornschicht bestehen im wesentlichen aus Ceramiden, freien Fettsäuren, Cholesterin und Cholesterinsulfat und sind über die gesamte Hornschicht verteilt. Die Zusammensetzung dieser Lipide ist für die intakte Funktion der epidermalen Barriere und damit für die Wasserundurchlässigkeit der Haut von entscheidender Bedeutung.The lipids of the horny layer essentially consist of ceramides, free fatty acids, Cholesterol and cholesterol sulfate and are distributed over the entire horny layer. The Composition of these lipids is essential for the intact function of the epidermal barrier and therefore of crucial importance for the impermeability of the skin.

Bereits bei einer Reinigung der Haut mit Hilfe eines einfachen Wasserbads - ohne Zusatz von Tensiden - kommt es zunächst zu einer Quellung der Hornschicht der Haut. Der Grad dieser Quellung hängt u. a. von der Dauer des Bads und dessen Temperatur ab. Gleichzeitig werden wasserlösliche Stoffe ab- bzw. ausgewaschen, wie z. B. wasserlösliche Schmutzbestandteile, aber auch hauteigene Stoffe, die für das Wasserbindungsvermögen der Hornschicht verantwortlich sind. Durch hauteigene oberflächenaktive Stoffe werden außerdem auch Hautfette in gewissem Ausmaß gelöst und ausgewaschen. Dies bedingt nach anfänglicher Quellung eine nachfolgende Austrocknung der Haut, die durch waschaktive Zusätze noch deutlich verstärkt werden kann.Even when the skin is cleaned with the help of a simple water bath - without additives of tensides - there is initially swelling of the horny layer of the skin. The degree this swelling depends u. a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water soluble Dirt constituents, but also the skin's own substances, which are essential for water retention responsible for the horny layer. By skin's own surface-active substances to a certain extent, skin fats are also dissolved and washed out. This requires after initial swelling, subsequent drying of the skin caused by washing active Additives can be significantly increased.

Bei gesunder Haut sind diese Vorgänge im allgemeinen belanglos, da die Schutzmechanismen der Haut solche leichten Störungen der oberen Hautschichten ohne weiteres kompensieren können. Aber bereits im Fall nichtpathologischer Abweichungen vom Normalstatus, z. B. durch umweltbedingte Abnutzungsschäden bzw. Irritationen, Lichtschäden, Altershaut usw., ist der Schutzmechanismus an der Hautoberfläche gestört. With healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant because of the protective mechanisms the skin easily compensate for such slight disorders of the upper layers of the skin can. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, e.g. B. due to environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, Aging skin etc., the protective mechanism on the skin surface is disturbed.

Bei alter Haut beispielsweise erfolgt die regenerative Erneuerung verlangsamt, wobei insbesondere das Wasserbindungsvermögen der Hornschicht nachläßt. Sie wird deshalb inflexibel, trocken und rissig ("physiologisch" trockene Haut). Ein Barriereschaden ist die Folge. Die Haut wird anfällig für negative Umwelteinflüsse wie die Invasion von Mikroorganismen, Toxinen und Allergenen. Als Folge kann es sogar zu toxischen oder allergischen Hautreaktionen kommen.With old skin, for example, regenerative renewal is slowed down, in particular the water retention capacity of the horny layer decreases. It will therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is that Episode. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, Toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even become toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

Bei pathologisch trockener und empfindlicher Haut liegt ein Barriereschaden a priori vor. Epidermale Interzellularlipide werden offenbar fehlerhaft oder in ungenügender Menge bzw. Zusammensetzung gebildet. Die Konsequenz ist eine erhöhte Durchlässigkeit der Hornschicht und ein unzureichender Schutz der Haut vor Verlust an hygroskopischen Substanzen und Wasser.In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids appear to be defective or in insufficient quantity or Composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

Die Barrierewirkung der Haut kann über die Bestimmung des transepidermalen Wasserverlustes (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) quantifiziert werden. Dabei handelt es sich um die Abdunstung von Wasser aus dem Körperinneren ohne Einbeziehung des Wasserverlustes beim Schwitzen. Die Bestimmung des TEWL-Wertes hat sich als außerordentlich informativ erwiesen und kann zur Diagnose rissiger oder schrundiger Haut, zur Bestimmung der Verträglichkeit chemisch verschiedenartig aufgebauter Tenside und dergleichen mehr herangezogen werden.The skin's barrier effect can be determined by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss) can be quantified. It refers to the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extraordinary proven informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, for determination the compatibility of chemically different types of surfactants and the like be used.

Für die Schönheit und Gepflegtheit der Haut ist der Wasseranteil in der obersten Hautschicht von größter Bedeutung. Man kann ihn in einem begrenzten Umfang durch Einbringen von Feuchtigkeitsregulatoren günstig beeinflussen.For the beauty and care of the skin is the water content in the top layer of skin of highest importance. It can be introduced to a limited extent of moisture regulators favorably affect.

Anionische Tenside, welche im allgemeinen Bestandteile von Reinigungszubereitungen sind, können den pH-Wert in der Hornschicht langanhaltend erhöhen, was regenerative Prozesse, die der Wiederherstellung und Erneuerung der Barrierefunktion der Haut dienen, stark behindert. In diesem Fall stellt sich in der Hornschicht zwischen Regeneration und dem Verlust essentieller Substanzen durch regelmäßige Extraktion ein neuer, häufig sehr ungünstiger Gleichgewichtszustand ein, der das äußere Erscheinungsbild der Haut und die physiologische Funktionweise der Hornschicht entscheidend beeinträchtigt. Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations can increase the pH in the horny layer for a long time, which is regenerative Processes that restore and renew the barrier function of the skin, severely disabled. In this case, the horny layer is between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium, which affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer is decisively impaired.

Unter Hautpflege im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, daß die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z. B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z. B. Wasser, Lipide, Elektrolyte) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird.Skin care in the sense of the present invention is primarily to be understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, Lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Produkte zur Pflege, Behandlung und Reinigung trockener und strapazierter Haut sind an sich bekannt. Allerdings ist ihr Beitrag zur Regeneration einer physiologisch intakten, hydratisierten und glatten Hornschicht umfangmäßig und zeitlich begrenzt.Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and limited in time.

Die Wirkung von Salben und Cremes auf die Barrierefunktion und die Hydratation der Hornschicht beruht im wesentlichen auf der Abdeckung (Okklusion) der behandelten Hautbezirke. Die Salbe oder Creme stellt sozusagen eine (zweite) künstliche Barriere dar, die den Wasserverlust der Haut verhindern soll. Entsprechend leicht kann diese physikalische Barriere - beispielsweise mit Reinigungsmitteln - wieder entfernt werden, wodurch der ursprüngliche, beeinträchtigte Zustand wieder erreicht wird. Darüber hinaus kann die Hautpflegewirkung bei regelmäßiger Behandlung nachlassen. Nach dem Absetzen der Produktanwendung kehrt die Haut sehr schnell wieder in den Zustand vor Behandlungsbeginn zurück. Bei bestimmten Produkten verschlechtert sich der Zustand der Haut unter Umständen sogar vorübergehend. Eine nachhaltige Produktwirkung wird in der Regel also nicht oder nur in einem eingeschränkten Maße erreicht.The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer is essentially based on the covering (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream is a (second) artificial barrier, so to speak prevent water loss from the skin. This physical can be correspondingly easily Barrier - for example with detergents - can be removed again, causing the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the Reduce skin care effect with regular treatment. After stopping the Product application very quickly returns the skin to the state before the start of treatment back. With certain products, the skin condition worsens below Even temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent.

Die Wirkung einiger pharmazeutischer Zubereitungen auf die Barrierefunktion der Haut besteht sogar in einer selektiven Barriereschädigung, die ermöglichen soll, daß Wirkstoffe in bzw. durch die Haut in den Körner eindringen können. Ein gestörtes Erscheinungsbild der Haut wird dabei als Nebenwirkung teilweise billigend in Kauf genommen.The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the skin's barrier function exists even in a selective barrier damage, which should enable active substances can penetrate into or through the skin in the grains. A disturbed appearance the skin is partially accepted as a side effect.

Die Wirkung von pflegenden Reinigungsprodukten besteht im wesentlichen in einer effizienten Rückfettung mit Sebumlipid-ähnlichen Substanzen. Durch die gleichzeitige Verminderung des Tensidgehalts solcher Zubereitungen läßt sich der Schaden an der Hornschichtbarriere weiter begrenzen.The effect of nourishing cleaning products essentially consists in an efficient one Regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. By reducing at the same time The surfactant content of such preparations can damage the horny layer barrier limit further.

Dem Stand der Technik mangelt es allerdings an Zubereitungen, welche die Barrierefunktion und die Hydratation der Hornschicht positiv beeinflussen und die physikalischchemischen Eigenschaften der Hornschicht und insbesondere der Lamellen aus Interzellularlipiden stärken bzw. sogar wiederherstellen. However, the prior art lacks preparations which have the barrier function and positively influence the hydration of the horny layer and the physicochemical Properties of the horny layer and especially the lamellae made of intercellular lipids strengthen or even restore.

Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es also, die Nachteile des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen. Insbesondere sollten hautpflegende Zubereitungen und Zubereitungen zur Reinigung der Haut zur Verfügung gestellt werden, welche die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen, zumal dann, wenn die natürliche Regeneration der Haut nicht ausreicht. Sie sollen ferner zur Behandlung und Prophylaxe von Folgeschäden der Hautaustrocknung, beispielsweise Fissuren oder inflammatorischen oder allergischen Prozessen oder auch der Neurodermitis, geeignet sein. Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es auch, stabile hautpflegende kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Mittel zur Verfügung zu stellen, welche die Haut vor Umwelteinflüssen wie Sonne und Wind schützen. Insbesondere sollte die Wirkung der Zubereitungen physiologisch, schnell und nachhaltig sein.The object of the present invention was therefore to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art remove. In particular, skin care preparations and preparations for cleaning The skin is made available which is the barrier properties of the skin maintain or restore, especially when the skin's natural regeneration not enough. They are also intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to the Drying out of the skin, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis. Object of the present invention it was also available to provide stable skin care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents to protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable his.

Diese Aufgaben werden überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorhersehbar gelöst durch

  • kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 haben, wobei die genannten Fettsäuren sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen können.
    • These tasks are solved surprisingly and are not predictable for the person skilled in the art
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids, which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 , where the fatty acids mentioned can be present either individually or in a mixture.

    • Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind in jeglicher Hinsicht überaus befriedigende Präparate. Es war für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, daß die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen

    • besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
    • besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
    • besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
    • die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen
    als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention
    • better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,
    • counteract dehydration better,
    • work better against skin aging and
    • protect the skin better from environmental influences
    than the preparations of the prior art.

    Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind insbesondere Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuregemische, welche durch Verseifung von Wachsen oder Wachsgemischen erhältlich sind. Die als Ausgangsprodukt verwendeten Wachse bzw. Wachsgemische können als natürliche Produkte unterschiedlich zusammengesetzt sein. Advantageous in the sense of the present invention are in particular fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures, which can be obtained by saponification of waxes or wax mixtures are. The waxes or wax mixtures used as the starting product can be used as natural products have different compositions.

    Die Verwendung von Wachsen und Wachsderivaten in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen ist an sich bekannt. Wachse sind Fettsäureester, die in tierischen und pflanzlichen Produkten vorkommen, sich aber von den Fetten und Ölen dadurch unterscheiden, daß die zugrundeliegenden Fettsäuren nicht mit Glycerin, sondern mit höheren, primären, einwertigen Alkoholen verestert sind.The use of waxes and wax derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are known per se. Waxes are fatty acid esters found in animal and vegetable products, but differ from fats and oils in that that the underlying fatty acids are not with glycerin, but with higher, primary, monohydric alcohols are esterified.

    Vorteilhafte Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuregemische sind beispielsweise aus Bienenwachs, Chinawachs, Hummelwachs und anderen Insektenwachsen erhältlich.Advantageous fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures are, for example, from beeswax, China wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes available.

    Bienenwachs z. B. ist ein Ausscheidungsprodukt aus Drüsen der Honigbienen, das diese zum Bauen der Honigwaben verwenden. Gelbes (Cera flava), braunes oder rotes sogenanntes Rohwachs ist beispielsweise erhältlich, indem man die vom Honig durch Ausschleudern befreiten Waben schmilzt, die Schmelze von festen Verunreinigungen trennt und das so erhaltene Rohwachs erstarren läßt. Das Rohwachs kann durch Behandlung mit Oxidationsmitteln vollkommen weiß gebleicht werden (Cera alba).Beeswax z. B. is an excretion product from the glands of honeybees that this use to build the honeycomb. Yellow (Cera flava), brown or red So-called raw wax can be obtained, for example, by using honey Extracting freed honeycombs melts, separating the melt from solid impurities and solidify the raw wax thus obtained. The raw wax can be treated with Oxidizing agents are bleached completely white (Cera alba).

    Bienenwachs besteht aus dem in Alkohol leichtlöslichen Cerin, einem Gemisch aus Cerotinsäure CH3(CH2)24COOH und Melissinsäure CH3(CH2)28COOH sowie aus einem Myricin genannten Ester-Gemisch aus ca. 70 Estern von C16- bis C38-Säuren und C24- bis C36-Alkoholen. Als wesentliche Bestandteile von Bienenwachs finden sich Myricylpalmitat, Myricylcerotinat und Paraffin.Beeswax consists of cerin, which is readily soluble in alcohol, a mixture of cerotinic acid CH 3 (CH 2 ) 24 COOH and melissic acid CH 3 (CH 2 ) 28 COOH as well as an ester mixture called myricin from approx. 70 esters from C 16 - to C 38 acids and C 24 to C 36 alcohols. Myricyl palmitate, myricylcerotinate and paraffin are found as essential components of beeswax.

    Auch andere Insektenwachse wie beispielsweise Hummelwachs oder Chinawachs sind im wesentlichen Mischungen verschiedener Ester. Chinawachs z. B. wird in China und Japan von der auf der chinesischen Esche lebenden Wachsschildlaus (Coccus ceriferus) und den Schildlausarten Ceroplastes ceriferus und Ericerus pela abgeschieden bzw. erzeugt. Es wird von den Bäumen abgekratzt und durch Umschmelzen in kochendem Wasser gereinigt. Hauptbestandteil des Chinawachses ist der Cerotinsäureester des Cerylalkohols.Other insect waxes such as bumblebee wax or china wax are also in the essential mixtures of different esters. China wax z. B. is used in China and Japan of the wax scale insect (Coccus ceriferus) living on the Chinese ash and the Scale insects Ceroplastes ceriferus and Ericerus pela separated or produced. It is scraped off the trees and cleaned by remelting in boiling water. The main component of the China wax is the cerotinic ester of ceryl alcohol.

    Auch Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuregemische, welche aus Pflanzenwachsen erhältlich sind, sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung. Vorzugsweise verwendbar sind Cuticularwachse niederer und höherer Pflanzen, Algen, Flechten, Moose und Pilze, wie beispielsweise Candelillawachs, Carnaubawachs, Japanwachs, Espartograswachs, Korkwachs, Reiswachs, Zuckerrohrwachs, Fruchtwachse, z. B. Apfelwachs, Blütenwachse, Blattwachse von Nadelhölzern, Kaffeewachs, Flachswachs, Sesamwachs, Jojobaöl und dergleichen mehr.Fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures which are obtainable from plant waxes, are advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Cuticular waxes can preferably be used lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, Rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, Leaf waxes from conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like more.

    Candelillawachse z. B. sind bräunliche bis gelblichbraune, harte wachsartige Massen, welche in lipophilen Lösemitteln löslich sind. Candelillawachs enthält ungeradzahlige aliphatische Kohlenwasserstoffe (ca. 42 %), Ester (ca. 39 %), Wachssäuren und Wachsalkohole. Gewonnen werden kann es beispielsweise aus den zerkleinerten, fleischigen Blättern einer stachellosen Wolfsmilchart (Euphorbia cerifera) durch Auskochen mit wäßriger Schwefelsäure.Candelilla waxes e.g. B. are brownish to yellowish brown, hard wax-like masses, which are soluble in lipophilic solvents. Candelilla wax contains odd aliphatic Hydrocarbons (approx. 42%), esters (approx. 39%), wax acids and wax alcohols. It can be obtained, for example, from the shredded, fleshy leaves of one spikeless milkweed (Euphorbia cerifera) by boiling with aqueous sulfuric acid.

    Carnaubawachs ist eine gelbliche, grünliche oder dunkelgraue Masse, welche in verschiedenen durch Auslese gewonnenen Qualitäten aus den Blättern der brasilianischen Fächerpalme Copernicia prunifera oder Carnaubapalme (Carnauba cerifera) gewonnen werden kann, indem beispielsweise der Wachsstaub von den angewelkten Wedeln gebürstet, geschmolzen, filtriert und nach dem Festwerden in Stücke gebrochen wird. Carnaubawachs kann durch Bleichmittel aufgehellt werden. Es enthält ca. 85 % Ester, jeweils etwa 2-3 % freie Wachssäuren (Carnauba-, Behen-, Lignocerin-, Melissin- und Cerotinsäure), langkettige Alkohole, Diole und gesättigte Kohlenwasserstoffe.Carnauba wax is a yellowish, greenish or dark gray mass, which is available in different qualities obtained through selection from the leaves of the Brazilian fan palm Copernicia prunifera or Carnauba palm (Carnauba cerifera) can be obtained can, for example, by brushing the wax dust off the withered fronds, melted, filtered and broken into pieces after solidification. Carnauba wax can be lightened with bleach. It contains about 85% esters, each about 2-3% free wax acids (carnauba, behenic, lignoceric, melissic and cerotic acids), long-chain Alcohols, diols and saturated hydrocarbons.

    Japanwachs (auch: Japantalg oder Cera japonica) ist farbloses oder gelbliches, reines Pflanzenfett, das beispielsweise in Japan aus den Früchten eines baumförmigen Sumach-Gewächses (Rhus succedanea) durch Auskochen gewonnen werden kann. Hauptbestandteile des Japanwachses sind Palmitinsäureglycerinester sowie Ester der Japansäure (Heneicosandisäure, C21H40O4), der Phellogensäure (Docosandisäure, C22H42O4) und der Tricosandisäure (C23H44O4).Japanese wax (also: Japanese tallow or Cera japonica) is colorless or yellowish, pure vegetable fat that can be obtained, for example in Japan, from the fruits of a tree-shaped sumac family (Rhus succedanea) by boiling out. The main components of the Japanese wax are palmitic acid glycerol esters and esters of japanese acid (heneicosanedioic acid, C 21 H 40 O 4 ), phellogenic acid (docosanedioic acid, C 22 H 42 O 4 ) and tricosanedioic acid (C 23 H 44 O 4 ).

    Esparto-Wachs fällt als Nebenprodukt bei der Zellstoff- und Papierherstellung aus dem in Mittelmeerländern beheimateten Espartogras (Graminaceae) an. Es zu besteht zu ca. 15 bis 17 % aus Wachssäuren (z. B. Cerotin- und Melissinsäure), zu 20 bis 22 % aus Alkoholen und Kohlenwasserstoffen sowie zu 63 bis 65 % aus Estern.Esparto wax is a by-product of the pulp and paper industry Mediterranean countries were home to esparto grass (Graminaceae). There are too about 15 up to 17% from wax acids (e.g. cerotinic and melissic acid), up to 20 to 22% from alcohols and hydrocarbons and 63 to 65% from esters.

    Die erfindungsgemäßen Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuregemische sind beispielsweise erhältlich, indem man die Wachse oder Wachsgemische nach üblichen Verfahren verseift. Geringe Anteile an erfindungsgemäßen Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuregemischen sind aber auch durch Destillation aus den Wachsen oder Wachsgemischen erhältlich. The fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures according to the invention are available, for example, by saponifying the waxes or wax mixtures using conventional methods. Low However, proportions of fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures according to the invention are also by Distillation from waxes or wax mixtures available.

    Zur Verseifung oder Hydrolyse werden die Wachse bzw. Wachsgemische in roher und/oder vorgereinigter - beispielsweise gebleichter - Form in an sich bekannter Weise, beispielsweise mit einer Base, vorzugsweise Alkalihydroxiden wie beispielsweise Natriumhydroxid (NaOH) und/oder Kaliumhydroxid (KOH) in Alkoholen, Wasser oder Gemischen davon, vorzugsweise aber in Alkoholen wie Methanol oder Ethanol, insbesondere bei pH 12 bis 14, verseift. Besonders bevorzugt ist die Verwendung von alkoholischer KOH-Lösung, insbesondere von ethanolischer Kalilauge.For saponification or hydrolysis, the waxes or wax mixtures are in raw and / or Pre-cleaned - for example bleached - form in a manner known per se, for example with a base, preferably alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and / or potassium hydroxide (KOH) in alcohols, water or mixtures thereof, preferably but in alcohols such as methanol or ethanol, especially at pH 12 to 14, saponified. The use of alcoholic KOH solution is particularly preferred, in particular of ethanolic potassium hydroxide solution.

    Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Insekten- und/oder Pflanzenwachshydrolysate mit einem Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 haben, werden ebenfalls durch die saure Hydrolyse von Wachsen bzw. Wachsgemischen erhalten, beispielsweise durch die Hydrolyse mit anorganischen Mineralsäuren, wie z. B. Borsäure, Salzsäure, salpetriger und/oder Salpetersäure, schwefliger und/oder Schwefelsäure, den verschiedenen Phosphorsäuren und dergleichen mehr und/oder mit sauren Salzen der Elemente der 1. bis 3. Hauptgruppe und/oder mit organischen Säuren, wie z. B. Ameisensäure und/oder Essigsäure.Insect and / or plant wax hydrolysates which are advantageous according to the invention and contain unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 are also obtained by the acidic hydrolysis of waxes or wax mixtures, for example by Hydrolysis with inorganic mineral acids, such as. As boric acid, hydrochloric acid, nitrous and / or nitric acid, sulfurous and / or sulfuric acid, the various phosphoric acids and the like more and / or with acid salts of the elements of the 1st to 3rd main group and / or with organic acids, such as. B. formic acid and / or acetic acid.

    Durch die Spaltung erhält man im wesentlichen zwei Fraktionen, von denen die eine vorwiegend Alkohole und die andere vorwiegend Fettsäuren und Hydroxyfettsäuren enthält.The cleavage essentially gives two fractions, one of which is predominantly Alcohols and the other mainly contains fatty acids and hydroxy fatty acids.

    Eine Trennung der beiden Fraktionen voneinander erfolgt beispielsweise, indem zu der durch die alkalische Spaltung erhaltenen Mischung Wasser und ein mit Wasser nicht mischbares Lösungsmittel hinzugegeben wird und die unverseifbaren Anteile ausgeschüttelt werden. Vorteilhafte, mit Wasser nicht mischbare Lösungsmittel sind beispielsweise halogenfreie, z. B. Petrolether oder n-Heptan, oder halogenierte, insbesondere chlorierte Kohlenwasserstoffe.The two fractions are separated from one another, for example, by adding to the mixture obtained by the alkaline cleavage water and one with water not miscible solvent is added and the unsaponifiable portions are shaken out become. Advantageous, water-immiscible solvents are, for example halogen-free, e.g. As petroleum ether or n-heptane, or halogenated, especially chlorinated Hydrocarbons.

    Anschließend wird die wäßrige Phase mit einer Säure, beispielsweise mit einer Mineralsäure, vorzugsweise mit 1/10 bis 1/2-normaler Salzsäure, angesäuert und vorzugsweise so viel Wasser bzw. Säure zugegeben, bis ein pH-Wert von etwa 3 vorliegt.The aqueous phase is then treated with an acid, for example with a mineral acid, preferably acidified with 1/10 to 1/2 normal hydrochloric acid, and preferably so plenty of water or acid until a pH of about 3 is reached.

    Die sich abscheidende Fettsäure wird abfiltriert oder auch mit nicht wassermischbaren Lösungsmitteln wie halogenfreien, z. B. Petrolether oder n-Heptan, oder halogenierten, insbesondere chlorierten Kohlenwasserstoffen, z. B. Trichlormethan extrahiert. The separated fatty acid is filtered off or with water-immiscible ones Solvents such as halogen-free, e.g. B. petroleum ether or n-heptane, or halogenated, in particular chlorinated hydrocarbons, e.g. B. Trichloromethane extracted.

    Auf die beschriebene Weise erhält man beispielsweise aus einem Bienenwachsgemisch etwa 5 bis 65 Gew.-% - bezogen auf das Ausgangsgewicht - eines gereinigten Säuregemisches, insbesondere eines Hydroxyfettsäuregemisches und/oder Fettsäuregemisches. Das Verfahren liefert aus Bienenwachsgemischen vorzugsweise Fettsäurefraktionen, die zwischen 10 und 90 Gew.-% Fettsäuren enthalten, die besonders bevorzugt eine Kettenlänge von C20 bis C36 haben. Fettsäurefraktionen, die aus Pflanzenwachsen erhältlich sind, enthalten bevorzugt auch Fettsäuren mit einer deutlich höheren Kettenlänge.In the manner described, about 5 to 65% by weight, based on the starting weight, of a purified acid mixture, in particular a hydroxyfatty acid mixture and / or fatty acid mixture, is obtained, for example, from a beeswax mixture. The process preferably produces fatty acid fractions from beeswax mixtures which contain between 10 and 90% by weight of fatty acids, which particularly preferably have a chain length of C 20 to C 36 . Fatty acid fractions that can be obtained from plant waxes preferably also contain fatty acids with a significantly longer chain length.

    Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, Insekten- und/oder Pflanzenwachshydrolysate mit einem Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 haben, welche beispielsweise nach dem genannten Verfahren erhältlich sind, direkt in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen einzusetzen. Vorzugsweise, wenngleich nicht zwingend kann sich an das beschriebene Verfahren eine weitere destillative Anreicherung der alkoholischen Komponenten anschließen.It is advantageous according to the invention to use insect and / or plant wax hydrolysates containing unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 , which can be obtained, for example, by the process mentioned, directly in cosmetic or use dermatological preparations. Preferably, although not necessarily, the described method can be followed by further enrichment of the alcoholic components by distillation.

    Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen oder Formulierungen können wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen. Entsprechend können sie, je nach ihrem Aufbau, beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcrème, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcrème, Tages- oder Nachtcrème usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthalten z. B. 0,001 bis 25 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 Gew.-% bis 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere aber 0,1 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen an den erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffen.The cosmetic or dermatological preparations or formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and for treatment, care and cleaning the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in the decorative Serve cosmetics. Correspondingly, depending on their structure, they can be used, for example are used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sun protection lotion, nutrient cream, Day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the inventive To use preparations as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. The preparations according to the invention contain z. B. 0.001 to 25% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations of the inventive Active substances.

    Günstig sind auch solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorzugsweise enthalten diese neben einem oder mehreren erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffen mindestens eine UV-A-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UV-B-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment. Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the Form of a sunscreen. These preferably contain one or several active substances according to the invention at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

    Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z. B. in Tagescrèmes gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet.However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use such cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not the Protection from sunlight is, but still contain UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances.

    Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösemittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be cosmetic Contain auxiliary substances, as they are usually used in such preparations be, e.g. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent the Foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

    Die jeweils einzusetzenden Mengen an kosmetischen, dermatologischen oder medizinischen Trägerstoffen und Parfüm können in Abhängigkeit von der Art des jeweiligen Produktes vom Fachmann durch einfaches Ausprobieren leicht ermittelt werden.The respective amounts of cosmetic, dermatological or medical Carriers and perfume can vary depending on the type of product can be easily determined by a specialist simply by trying it out.

    Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und Pflege der Haut werden besonders bevorzugt.Preparations for the treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

    Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.The cosmetic and dermatological agents according to the invention are used Preparations in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or the hair in sufficient Amount applied.

    Erfindungsgemäße kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen können in verschiedenen Formen vorliegen. So können sie z. B. eine Lösung, eine wasserfreie Zubereitung, eine Emulsion oder Mikroemulsion vom Typ Wasser-in-Öl (W/O) oder vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser (O/W), eine multiple Emulsionen, beispielsweise vom Typ Wasser-in-Öl-in-Wasser (W/O/W), ein Gel, einen festen Stift, eine Salbe oder auch ein Aerosol darstellen. Es ist auch vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffe in verkapselter Form darzureichen, z. B. in Kollagenmatrices und anderen üblichen Verkapselungsmaterialien, z. B. als Celluloseverkapselungen, in Gelatine, Wachsmatrices oder liposomal verkapselt. Insbesondere Wachsmatrices wie sie in der DE-OS 43 08 282 beschrieben werden, haben sich als günstig herausgestellt. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various Shapes are available. So you can z. B. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to present the active compounds according to the invention in encapsulated form, for. B. in collagen matrices and other common encapsulation materials, e.g. B. as cellulose encapsulations, encapsulated in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomal. In particular Wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have proven to be cheap exposed.

    Es ist auch möglich und vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffe in wäßrige Systeme bzw. Tensidzubereitungen zur Reinigung der Haut und der Haare einzufügen.It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the inventive ones Active substances in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and insert the hair.

    Insbesondere können die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen auch Antioxidantien enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.In particular, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also contain antioxidants. According to the invention can be used as favorable antioxidants all suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications Antioxidants are used.

    Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z. B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z. B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z. B. α-Carotin, β-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis µmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z. B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z. B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z. B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. As dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and Lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulf one, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α- (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO 4) rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof S elen and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

    Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the invention Preparations are preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

    Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

    Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations out of the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

    Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

    Beispiele:Examples: Beispiel 1example 1

    W/O-CrèmeW / O cream II. IIII IIIIII ParaffinölParaffin oil 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 OzokeritOzokerite 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 Vaselinevaseline 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 pflanzliches Ölvegetable oil 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 PEG-7-hydriertes RicinusölPEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 OctylmethoxycinnamatOctyl methoxycinnamate 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Methylbenzyliden CampherMethylbenzylidene camphor 2,502.50 2,502.50 2,502.50 TocopherolacetatTocopherol acetate 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 Magnesiumsulfat 7 H2OMagnesium sulfate 7 H 2 O 0,700.70 0,700.70 0,700.70 GlycerinGlycerin 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 2,502.50 -- -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- 2,502.50 -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- -- 2,502.50 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 2Example 2

    W/O-LotionW / O lotion II. IIII IIIIII ParaffinölParaffin oil 25,0025.00 25,0025.00 25,0025.00 SiliconölSilicone oil 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 CeresinCeresin 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 Vaselinevaseline 9,009.00 9,009.00 9,009.00 WollwachsalkoholWool wax alcohol 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 Polyglyceryl-3-dioleatPolyglyceryl-3-dioleate 2,502.50 2,502.50 2,502.50 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- HummelwachssäurenBumblebee wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- ChinawachssäurenChina wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 3Example 3

    O/W-LotionO / W lotion II. IIII IIIIII ParaffinölParaffin oil 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 IsopropylpalmitatIsopropyl palmitate 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 CetylalkoholCetyl alcohol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 BienenwachsBeeswax 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 Ceteareth-20Ceteareth-20 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 PEG-20-GlycerylstearatPEG-20 glyceryl stearate 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 GlycerinGlycerin 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- MelissenblütenwachssäurenLemon balm wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 4Example 4

    O/W-CrèmeO / W cream II. IIII IIIIII Pflanzliches ÖlVegetable oil 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 CetylalkoholCetyl alcohol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 GlycerinmonostearatGlycerol monostearate 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 PEG-30-GlycerylstearatPEG-30 glyceryl stearate 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 GlycerinGlycerin 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 IsopropylpalmitatIsopropyl palmitate 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Carbopol 980 (neutralisiert)Carbopol 980 (neutralized) 0,300.30 0,300.30 0,300.30 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,501.50 -- -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- 1,501.50 -- KaffeewachssäurenCoffee wax acids -- -- 1,501.50 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 5Example 5

    Salbeointment II. IIII IIIIII Vaselinevaseline 36,0036.00 36,0036.00 36,0036.00 CeresinCeresin 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 Zinkoxidzinc oxide 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 Pflanzliches ÖlVegetable oil 20,0020.00 20,0020.00 20,0020.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,20.2 -- -- EspartawachssäurenEsparta wax acids -- 0,20.2 -- CarnaubawachssäurenCarnauba wax acids -- -- 0,20.2 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. ParaffinölParaffin oil ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 6Example 6

    HautölSkin oil II. IIII IIIIII CetylpalmitatCetyl palmitate 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 C12-15- AlkylbenzoatC 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 PolyisobutenPolyisobutene 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 SqualanSqualane 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,500.50 -- -- KorkwachssäurenCork wax acids -- 0,500.50 -- JapanwachssäurenJapanese wax acids -- -- 0,500.50 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. ParaffinölParaffin oil ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 7Example 7

    BadeölBath oil II. IIII IIIIII ParaffinölParaffin oil 20,0020.00 20,0020.00 20,0020.00 PEG-40-hydriertes RizinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,500.50 -- -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- 0,500.50 -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- -- 0,500.50 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. SojaölSoybean oil ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 8Example 8

    Lippenstiftlipstick II. IIII IIIIII CeresinCeresin 8,008.00 8,008.00 8,008.00 BienenwachsBeeswax 14,0014.00 14,0014.00 14,0014.00 CarnaubawachsCarnauba wax 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 Vaselinevaseline 28,0028.00 28,0028.00 28,0028.00 Hydriertes RizinusölHydrogenated castor oil 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylic / Capric triglycerides 6,006.00 6,006.00 6,006.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,200.20 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 0,200.20 -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- -- 0,200.20 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. ParaffinölParaffin oil ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 9Example 9

    PflegemaskeCare mask II. IIII IIIIII PEG-50 LanolinPEG-50 lanolin 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 GlycerylstearatGlyceryl stearate 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 SonnenblumenkernölSunflower seed oil 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 BentonitBentonite 8,008.00 8,008.00 8,008.00 Kaolinkaolin 35,0035.00 35,0035.00 35,0035.00 Zinkoxidzinc oxide 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- ChinawachssäurenChina wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- JapanwachssäurenJapanese wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 10Example 10

    Liposomenhaltiges GelGel containing liposomes II. IIII IIIIII LecithinLecithin 6,006.00 6,006.00 6,006.00 Pflanzliches ÖlVegetable oil 12,5012.50 12,5012.50 12,5012.50 Hydrolysiertes KollagenHydrolyzed collagen 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 Xanthan GumXanthan gum 1,401.40 1,401.40 1,401.40 ButylenglycolButylene glycol 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 11Example 11

    Duschpräparat mit RückfetterShower preparation with moisturizer II. IIII IIIIII CocoamidodiacetatCocoamidodiacetate 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 NatriumlaurylsulfatSodium lauryl sulfate 25,0025.00 25,0025.00 25,0025.00 Kalium Cocyl Hydrolysiertes KollagenPotassium Cocyl Hydrolyzed Collagen 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 MacadamianußölMacadamia nut oil 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 NatriumchloridSodium chloride 0,600.60 0,600.60 0,600.60 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- HummelwachssäurenBumblebee wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- CarnabauwachssäurenCarnabau wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 12Example 12

    SeifenstückSoap bar II. IIII IIIIII Na-Salz aus TalgfettsäurenNa salt from tallow fatty acids 60,0060.00 60,0060.00 60,0060.00 Na-Salz aus KokosölNa salt from coconut oil 28,0028.00 28,0028.00 28,0028.00 NatriumchloridSodium chloride 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,100.10 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 0,100.10 -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- -- 0,100.10 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 13Example 13

    SyndetseifeSyndet soap II. IIII IIIIII NatriumlaurylsulfatSodium lauryl sulfate 30,0030.00 30,0030.00 30,0030.00 NatriumsulfosuccinatSodium sulfosuccinate 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 Kaliumcocoyl hydrolysiertes KollagenPotassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 Dimethicon CopolyolDimethicone copolyol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 Paraffinparaffin 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 MaisstärkeCornstarch 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 TalcumTalcum 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 GlycerinGlycerin 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 14Example 14

    HaarpflegemittelHair care products II. IIII IIIIII TEA-Cocoyl hydrolysiertes KollagenTEA cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen 30,0030.00 30,0030.00 30,0030.00 MonoethanolaminlaurylsulfatMonoethanolamine lauryl sulfate 25,0025.00 25,0025.00 25,0025.00 Mandelölalmond oil 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 NatriumchloridSodium chloride 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- MelissenblütenwachssäurenLemon balm wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 15Example 15

    PflegeshampooCare shampoo II. IIII IIIIII NatriumlaurylsulfatSodium lauryl sulfate 34,0034.00 34,0034.00 34,0034.00 DinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinatDisodium lauryl sulfosuccinate 6,006.00 6,006.00 6,006.00 CocoamidopropylbetainCocoamidopropyl betaine 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 GlycoldistearatGlycol distearate 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,200.20 -- -- MelissenblütenwachssäurenLemon balm wax acids -- 0,200.20 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 0,200.20 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 16Example 16

    HaarkurHair treatment II. IIII IIIIII CetylalkoholCetyl alcohol 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylic / Capric triglycerides 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 PetrolatumPetrolatum 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 WollwachsalkoholWool wax alcohol 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 17Example 17

    Haarspülunghair conditioner II. IIII IIIIII CocoamidopropylbetainCocoamidopropyl betaine 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 CetylalkoholCetyl alcohol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 PropylenglycolPropylene glycol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 CitronensäureCitric acid 0,300.30 0,300.30 0,300.30 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- CarnaubawachssäurenCarnauba wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 18Example 18

    HaarfestigerHair fastener II. IIII IIIIII Polyvinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat/Vinylpropionat-CopolymerPolyvinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate copolymer 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 EthanolEthanol 45,0045.00 45,0045.00 45,0045.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 19Example 19

    FrisiercrèmeHairdressing cream II. IIII IIIIII Vaselinevaseline 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 CetearylalkoholCetearyl alcohol 4,004.00 4,004.00 4,004.00 PEG-40-hydriertes RizinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 IsopropylpalmitatIsopropyl palmitate 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 CitronensäureCitric acid 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- KaffeewachssäurenCoffee wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 20Example 20

    Rasierschaumshaving cream II. IIII IIIIII StearinsäureStearic acid 7,007.00 7,007.00 7,007.00 NatriumlaurylsulfatSodium lauryl sulfate 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 StearylalkoholStearyl alcohol 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 GlycerinGlycerin 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 TriethanolaminTriethanolamine 3,603.60 3,603.60 3,603.60 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- KorkwachssäurenCork wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- ChinawachssäurenChina wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 21Example 21

    FußcrèmeFoot cream II. IIII IIIIII Soluan 5Soluan 5 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 MethylsalicylatMethyl salicylate 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylic / Capric triglycerides 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 StearinsäureStearic acid 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 CetylalkoholCetyl alcohol 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 GlycerinGlycerin 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 DimethiconDimethicone 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 Carbopol 984Carbopol 984 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 TriethanolaminTriethanolamine 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- KaffeewachssäurenCoffee wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 22Example 22

    AerosolsprayAerosol spray II. IIII IIIIII OctyldodecanolOctyldodecanol 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,200.20 -- -- KaffeewachssäurenCoffee wax acids -- 0,200.20 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 0,200.20 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. EthanolEthanol ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Die durch Zusammenmischung der jeweiligen Bestandteile erhaltene flüssige Phase wird zusammen mit einem Propan-Butan-Gemisch (2:7) im Verhältnis 39:61 in Aerosolbehälter abgefüllt.The liquid phase obtained by mixing the respective components together together with a propane-butane mixture (2: 7) in a ratio of 39:61 in an aerosol container bottled.

    Beispiel 23Example 23

    PumpsprayPump spray II. IIII IIIIII PEG-40-Hydriertes RizinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 GlycerinGlycerin 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,200.20 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 0,200.20 -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- -- 0,200.20 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 24Example 24

    Roll-on-GelRoll-on gel II. IIII IIIIII 1,3-Butylenglycol1,3-butylene glycol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 PEG-40-Hydriertes RizinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 HydroxyethylcelluloseHydroxyethyl cellulose 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- ChinawachssäurenChina wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- JapanwachssäurenJapanese wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 25Example 25

    Roll-on-EmulsionRoll-on emulsion II. IIII IIIIII TricetearethphosphatTriceteareth phosphate 0,300.30 0,300.30 0,300.30 OctyldodecanolOctyldodecanol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 C12-15-AlkylbenzoatC 12-15 alkyl benzoate 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 C10-30-AlkylacrylatC 10-30 alkyl acrylate 0,150.15 0,150.15 0,150.15 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- MelissenblütenwachssäurenLemon balm wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- ApfelwachssäurenApple wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 26Example 26

    WachsstiftCrayon II. IIII IIIIII Hydriertes RizinusölHydrogenated castor oil 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 BienenwachsBeeswax 6,006.00 6,006.00 6,006.00 CeresinCeresin 30,0030.00 30,0030.00 30,0030.00 C12-15-AlkylbenzoatC12-15 alkyl benzoate 17,0017.00 17,0017.00 17,0017.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,500.50 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 0,500.50 -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- -- 0,500.50 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. OctyldodecanolOctyldodecanol ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 27Example 27

    Emulsion-Make-upEmulsion makeup II. IIII IIIIII Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylic / Capric triglycerides 7,507.50 7,507.50 7,507.50 LecithinLecithin 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 DistärkephosphatDistarch phosphate 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 DimethiconDimethicone 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 GlycerinGlycerin 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 MagnesiumsilikatMagnesium silicate 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 Glimmermica 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 EisenoxideIron oxides 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 TitandioxidTitanium dioxide 2,502.50 2,502.50 2,502.50 Talkumtalc 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 TapiokastärkeTapioca starch 0,250.25 0,250.25 0,250.25 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 0,300.30 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 0,300.30 -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- -- 0,300.30 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 28Example 28

    Maskaramascara II. IIII IIIIII StearinsäureStearic acid 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Lanolinlanolin 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 MagnesiumaluminiumsilikatMagnesium aluminum silicate 3,003.00 3,003.00 3,003.00 CyclomethiconCyclomethicone 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 PigmentmischungPigment mixture 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 29Example 29

    Maskara, wasserfestMascara, waterproof II. IIII IIIIII Lanolinlanolin 7,007.00 7,007.00 7,007.00 AluminiumstearatAluminum stearate 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 BienenwachsBeeswax 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 CyclomethiconCyclomethicone 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Polyvinylpyrrolidon Eicosen CopolymerPolyvinylpyrrolidone eicosene copolymer 1,001.00 1,001.00 1,001.00 PigmentmischungPigment mixture 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 2,002.00 -- -- CandelillawachssäurenCandelilla wax acids -- 2,002.00 -- CarnaubawachssäurenCarnauba wax acids -- -- 2,002.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Beispiel 30Example 30

    LidschattenEyeshadow II. IIII IIIIII Acetylierter LanolinalkoholAcetylated lanolin alcohol 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 CetylacetatCetylacetate 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 ParaffinölParaffin oil 5,005.00 5,005.00 5,005.00 Polysorbat 80Polysorbate 80 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 CyclomethiconCyclomethicone 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 GlycerylmonostearatGlyceryl monostearate 4,504.50 4,504.50 4,504.50 StearinsäureStearic acid 13,5013.50 13,5013.50 13,5013.50 PigmentmischungPigment mixture 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 10,0010.00 BienenwachssäurenBeeswax acids 1,001.00 -- -- ReiswachssäurenRice wax acids -- 1,001.00 -- SesamwachssäurenSesame wax acids -- -- 1,001.00 Parfüm, Konservierungsstoffe, Farbstoffe, Antioxidantien, NeutralisationsmittelPerfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants, neutralizing agents q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasserwater ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

    Claims (8)

    Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 haben, wobei die genannten Fettsäuren sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen können.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids, which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 , where the fatty acids mentioned can be present either individually or in a mixture. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß zusätzlich kosmetische oder dermatologische Hufs-, Zusatz- und/oder Wirkstoffe enthalten sind.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that additional cosmetic or dermatological hoof, additional and / or Active ingredients are included. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Fettsäuren bzw. die Fettsäuregemische aus Insektenwachsen erhältlich sind.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty acids or the fatty acid mixtures grow from insects are available. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Fettsäuren bzw. die Fettsäuregemische aus Pflanzenwachsen erhältlich sind.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty acids or the fatty acid mixtures from vegetable waxes are available. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Fettsäuren eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C34 haben.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acids have a chain length of C 22 to C 34 . Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Insekten- und/oder Pflanzenwachshydrolysaten, welche einen Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren haben, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 aufweisen, wobei die genannten Fettsäuren sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen können.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing insect and / or plant wax hydrolysates, which have a content of unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids, which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 , the fatty acids mentioned both individually and can be present in the mixture. Verwendung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 haben, wobei die genannten Fettsäuren sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen können, zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung von schädigenden und/oder oxidativen Einwirkungen auf die Haut oder die Haare. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids, which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 , where the fatty acids mentioned can be present either individually or in a mixture, for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging and / or oxidative effects on the skin or hair. Verwendung von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, aliphatischen Fettsäuren, die eine Kettenlänge von C22 bis C60 haben, wobei die genannten Fettsäuren sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen können, zur Stärkung der Barrierefunktion der Haut.Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated, aliphatic fatty acids, which have a chain length of C 22 to C 60 , where the fatty acids mentioned can be present either individually or in a mixture, to strengthen the barrier function of the Skin.
    EP99113498A 1998-07-22 1999-07-13 Cosmetic and dermatological care compositions containing fatty acids Withdrawn EP0974338A3 (en)

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    DE1998132888 DE19832888A1 (en) 1998-07-22 1998-07-22 Nourishing cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing fatty acids
    DE19832888 1998-07-22

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    FR2823504A1 (en) * 2001-04-17 2002-10-18 Oreal Solid composition, especially make-up or other cosmetic product in stick form, containing combination of polysaccharide and soap type gelling agents
    FR2863885A1 (en) * 2003-12-18 2005-06-24 Vincience Pharmaceutical, dermatological and/or cosmetic compositions, useful for skin care, e.g. for firming skin and combating aging, containing hydrolyzed cork extract
    EP1552815A1 (en) * 2004-01-12 2005-07-13 JOHNSON & JOHNSON GmbH Cleansing bar comprising a wax
    EP1552817A1 (en) * 2004-01-12 2005-07-13 JOHNSON & JOHNSON GmbH Cleasing bar comprising a wax composition
    DE102004010246A1 (en) * 2004-03-02 2005-09-22 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsion based cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation, useful for e.g. reducing the transepidermal water loss and prophylaxis and treatment of the symptoms of skin aging, comprises 22-28C fatty acid and a polar lipid phase
    EP1671620A1 (en) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-21 Kao Corporation Makeup composition
    JP2006169195A (en) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-29 Kao Corp Makeup cosmetic
    JP2006169194A (en) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-29 Kao Corp Makeup cosmetic

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    FR2863885A1 (en) * 2003-12-18 2005-06-24 Vincience Pharmaceutical, dermatological and/or cosmetic compositions, useful for skin care, e.g. for firming skin and combating aging, containing hydrolyzed cork extract
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    EP1671620A1 (en) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-21 Kao Corporation Makeup composition
    JP2006169195A (en) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-29 Kao Corp Makeup cosmetic
    JP2006169194A (en) * 2004-12-17 2006-06-29 Kao Corp Makeup cosmetic
    CN1823705B (en) * 2004-12-17 2011-02-02 花王株式会社 Makeup composition

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