JP2006169194A - Makeup cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a makeup cosmetic giving eyelash, etc., with good curl-up effect and bulky effect and keeping the makeup effect for a long period. <P>SOLUTION: The O/W-type makeup cosmetic contains (A) 1-40 mass% carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23-100 and partly forming a salt as necessary, (B) 1-40 mass% wax ester having a total carbon number of 24-100 and (C) 20-98 mass% water. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention is an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic containing a carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100, which may partially form a salt, and a wax ester, and in particular, adjusting the shape of eyelashes and eyebrows The present invention relates to makeup cosmetics for conspicuous eyes.

Cosmetics are generally used to beautify the appearance of a human body. In particular, cosmetics such as mascara are intended to provide a presence to the eyes by shaping the hair by coating eyelashes and eyebrows one by one. At that time, it is required to maintain the makeup effect.
In general, these cosmetics are mainly composed of solid fats, film-forming agents, pigments, etc., and in order to exhibit good usability and functionality as cosmetics, studies have been made on blending raw materials having various properties. It was. For example, blending with fatty acids such as palmitic acid and stearic acid to increase adhesion to eyelashes, enhance cosmetic effects such as curling up and volume up, and to maintain cosmetic effects, a film-forming agent Attempts have been made to keep eyelashes for a long time.

In the past, fatty acid esters and fatty acid soaps having an alkyl chain of 12 to 22 have been frequently used in order to produce mascara having an excellent cosmetic effect and excellent usability. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a cosmetic for eyelashes using a specific sucrose fatty acid ester and a fatty acid soap in combination, and Patent Document 2 discloses a composition for coating keratin fibers containing a polyglycerol fatty acid ester and a fatty acid soap. Things are disclosed. According to these inventions, it is excellent in usability and ease of overlaying, is excellent in the uniformity of the finish after coating, and can further improve the volume feeling.
In Patent Document 3, a higher alcohol, a cyclic polysiloxane, and an alkyl amide / acrylic ester copolymer are used in combination with an emulsified eyelash cosmetic containing a solid oil, a higher fatty acid salt, and water. Thus, a cosmetic for eyelashes has been disclosed which has good usability and finish feeling and suppresses deterioration of usability over time.

  However, when a fatty acid having an alkyl chain length of 12 to 22 used in the above-described eyelash cosmetics is blended, the coating film collapses or dissolves in water or sebum due to friction or pressure caused by tears, sebum, or blinking. In other words, it has been difficult to maintain a good cosmetic effect for a long time.

JP 2000-119140 A JP 2003-128522 A Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-10495

  An object of the present invention is to provide makeup that can give a good curl-up effect and volume effect to eyelashes, etc., can obtain a good usability and a feeling of use, and can maintain its cosmetic effect for a long time. Is to provide cosmetics.

The inventor of the present invention can provide an oil-in-water makeup cosmetic containing a specific carboxylic acid, a wax ester, and water, and can impart a good curl-up effect and volume effect to the eyelashes and the like. It was found that it can last for a long time.
That is, the present invention includes (A) 1 to 40% by mass of a carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100, which may partially form a salt, and (B) a wax ester 1 to 40 having a total carbon number of 24 to 100. The present invention provides an oil-in-water cosmetic for makeup containing 1% by mass and (C) 20-98% by mass of water.

  The cosmetic of the present invention, when used for eyelashes, etc., is beautifully coated on each eyelash and can give a good curl-up effect and volume effect, thus obtaining good usability and feeling of use. Can be maintained for a long time.

The cosmetic for makeup of the present invention includes (A) a carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100, which may partly form a salt. Specifically, a carboxylic acid having the structure of the following general formula (I) is preferable, and a part thereof may form a salt.
RnCOOH (I)
Here, Rn is a C22-99 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group which may have a hydroxyl group. When the carbon number of Rn is 22 or more, the cosmetic durability is improved, and when it is 99 or less, it is advantageous in terms of melting point and viscosity. From the above viewpoint, the carbon number of Rn is preferably 23 or more, and the upper limit is preferably 70 or less, particularly preferably 60 or less.
Further, Rn is preferably a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon group, and in particular, from the viewpoint of finish and water resistance, a linear saturated hydrocarbon group, particularly one having a carboxyl group at the end of polyethylene is preferable. . Moreover, it is preferable that (A) component has 80-120 degreeC melting | fusing point.

As described above, the carboxylic acid of the component (A) may partially form a salt. From the viewpoint of improving the feeling of use, the degree of neutralization of the carboxylic acid is 0 to 90 mol%. It is preferable that it is 0.1 to 30 mol%.

  The counter ion in the case where the carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100 forms a salt is not particularly limited. Alkali metals such as sodium and potassium, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropane Examples thereof include organic amines such as diol, trishydroxymethylaminomethane, morpholine, and other basic amino acids such as L-arginine. Of these, organic amines are preferable, and aminomethylpropanol and aminomethylpropanediol are particularly preferable. These can be added to the cosmetic of the present invention as a neutralizing agent, and the amount of the compound is appropriately selected according to the content of the carboxylic acid in the makeup cosmetic and the degree of neutralization. The range of 0.01 to 10% by mass, and further 0.1 to 5% by mass is preferable. In addition, this neutralizing agent also plays the role which neutralizes this carboxylic acid, when it contains carboxylic acids other than (A) component mentioned later.

  (A) Commercial products containing carboxylic acids having a total carbon number of 23 to 100 include "Performacid 350ACID" (New Phase Technology), "SYNCROWAX AW1-C" (CRODA) containing linear carboxylic acids. In addition, “YOFCO lanolin fatty acid HH” (Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.), which contains a linear carboxylic acid and a branched carboxylic acid, can be mentioned.

  The content of the component (A) in the total amount of the cosmetic is preferably in the range of 1 to 40% by mass from the viewpoint of use feeling and longevity. Furthermore, the range of 1.5-20 mass% is preferable, and the range of 2.5-10 mass% is especially preferable.

  Next, the cosmetic of the present invention contains (B) a wax ester. The wax ester is an ester having a total carbon number of 24 to 100 and comprising a higher fatty acid and / or hydroxycarboxylic acid and a higher monohydric alcohol, and is a solid at 25 ° C., particularly having a melting point of 50 ° C. or higher. In the present invention, the higher fatty acid preferably has 12 to 50 carbon atoms, and the higher alcohol preferably has 12 to 50 carbon atoms. By containing the wax ester, a good curl-up effect and a volume effect can be imparted to eyelashes and the like. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of the hardness of the coating film, the total number of carbon atoms of the (B) wax ester is more preferably in the range of 30 to 70.

(B) Specific examples of wax esters having a total carbon number of 24 to 100 include carnauba wax, rice wax, jojoba wax (including extremely hydrogenated jojoba oil), waxes derived from plants such as candelilla wax, and whale wax Wax derived from animals such as beeswax and snow wax can be used.
The content of the component (B) in the total amount of the cosmetic is 1 to 40% by mass from the viewpoint of the curl-up effect and the volume effect, and is preferably in the range of 2 to 30% by mass from the viewpoint of the feeling of use. The range of 0.5-20 mass% is preferable.

  The cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic for makeup comprising (C) an oil-in-water emulsion containing 20 to 98% by mass of water. There exists an advantage which can control the drying rate of a coating film as content of water is 20-98 mass%. From the above viewpoint, the water content is preferably in the range of 20 to 70% by mass, and more preferably in the range of 30 to 60% by mass.

  In the present invention, in addition to the components (A) to (C), a resin emulsion (D) can be further blended. A resin emulsion refers to an emulsion in which a polymer is dispersed in a dispersant mainly composed of water. In particular, a monomer having a polymerizable double bond is polymerized in the presence of a plasticizer or a film forming aid. Is preferred. The glass transition temperature (Tg) of the resin emulsion is preferably −30 to 55 ° C., more preferably −20 to 45 ° C., from the viewpoint of film flexibility.

  Specifically, (meth) acrylic acid alkyl polymer emulsion, (meth) alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion, (meth) acrylic acid / (meth) alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion, alkyl (meth) acrylate / Styrene copolymer emulsions, vinyl acetate polymer emulsions, vinyl acetate-containing copolymer emulsions, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymer emulsions, silicone-containing polymer emulsions and the like can be suitably used. Commercially available products include Yodozol GH34 (NSC Japan, solid content: 45 to 47% by mass, Tg; −16 ° C.), Ditozol 5000AD (Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., solid content; 48 to 52% by mass, Tg; −14). ° C), Jurimer ET-416 (polyacrylic acid alkyl ester emulsion, Nippon Pure Chemical Co., Ltd., solid content: 56-58% by mass, Tg; 0 ° C), Jurimer ET-410 (alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion, Nippon Pure) Yakusha, solid content; 28.5 to 31.5 mass%, Tg; 44 ° C.).

  The polymerization for preparing the resin emulsion can be performed by a known method such as emulsion polymerization, solution polymerization, bulk polymerization, precipitation polymerization, non-emulsification polymerization. The polymerization average molecular weight of the resin emulsion obtained by polymerization is preferably 200,000 or less, and more preferably 10,000 to 100,000.

  These resin emulsions may contain one kind or a mixture of two or more kinds. When two or more kinds are mixed, two or more kinds of polymers having different glass transition temperatures can be combined. These resin emulsions are preferably contained in the cosmetic of the present invention as a film-forming base in an amount of 1 to 30% by mass in terms of solid content in all cosmetics. Furthermore, the range of 2-20 mass% is preferable from a viewpoint of a film formation ability and cleansing property.

  The cosmetic of the present invention may further contain (E) a saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having 10 to 22 carbon atoms or a salt in which a part or all of the carboxylic acid is neutralized. Specifically, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, palm oil fatty acid, Carboxylic acids such as beef tallow fatty acids and salts thereof can be contained. The component (E) is preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 2 to 15% by mass, from the viewpoint of a smooth finish of the coating film.

Moreover, when it contains a carboxylic acid having 22 or less carbon atoms or a salt thereof in addition to the component (A), the total carboxylic acid in the cosmetic for makeup (including those forming a salt) (i) The mass ratio (b) / (b) of the carboxylic acid (b) as the component (A) is preferably 0.21 or more from the viewpoint of makeup durability and the flexibility of the coating film, and more preferably 0.25. It is preferable that it is -1.0, especially 0.5-0.9.
Further, the content ratio (C) / (I) of the component (B) and the total carboxylic acid (including those forming a salt) (A) is 2 from the viewpoint of the stability of the cosmetic. -20 are preferable, and 3-5 are more preferable.

  The cosmetic of the present invention can further contain a hydrocarbon oil that is solid at 25 ° C. from the viewpoint of adjusting the hardness of the coating film. Specifically, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, ceresin and the like can be mentioned, and it is preferable that 0.5 to 20% by mass is contained in the cosmetic for makeup, and further 0.8 to It is preferable to contain 10% by mass.

The cosmetic of the present invention can further use an emulsifier such as a surfactant as necessary. Examples of the surfactant include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants that are generally used in cosmetics to form an oil-in-water emulsion state. .
Among these, in the present invention, a nonionic surfactant is preferable from the relationship with other substances constituting the cosmetic. Specifically, for example, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitol fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose Examples include fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, alkylene glycol adducts of lanolin, and polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether co-modified silicones. Among these, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil are preferable. The content of these surfactants is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10% by mass, and more preferably in the range of 1 to 5% by mass.

In addition to the components described above, the cosmetic of the present invention can contain components that are commonly used in cosmetics, such as powder components. Examples of powder components include koji, ultramarine, bengara, iron oxide, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, carbon black, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, synthetic sericite, sericite, talc, Inorganic powders such as kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite and smectite; glitter powders such as titanium mica, iron oxide mica titanium and aluminum powder; pigment powders such as organic tar pigments and lake pigments of organic pigments; Examples thereof include composite powders such as fine particle titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide-coated mica titanium, and barium sulfate-coated mica titanium.
As these various powders, those surface-treated with silicone, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, fatty acid ester, metal soap, amino acid, alkyl phosphate, etc., or those encapsulated in organic or inorganic microcapsules can be used. In addition, when various powders are contained in the oil phase, the powder surface is preferably subjected to a hydrophobic treatment in order to improve dispersibility and high-temperature storage stability, and silicone treatment and acrylic silicone treatment are particularly preferred.
One of these various powders may be used alone, or two or more thereof may be used in combination.

The cosmetic of the present invention further includes higher alcohols, water-soluble polymers, alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, drugs, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and other oils, thickeners, UV absorbers, UV scattering. An agent, a humectant, a fragrance, an antioxidant and the like can be contained. Moreover, when using the said cosmetics as a mascara, in order to improve a long rush effect, a fiber can be contained.
As the fiber, any of natural fibers such as cotton, silk and hemp, regenerated fibers such as rayon, and synthetic fibers such as polyamide, polyester, acrylic resin, and polyolefin may be used. Polyamide fibers are preferred. Furthermore, you may use the fiber which performed the surface treatment as needed. For example, in order to enhance the dispersibility in the oil phase, those having been subjected to surface treatment such as silica treatment, silicone treatment, fluorine compound treatment, metal soap treatment, and oil treatment can be used. From the viewpoint of adhesion to eyelashes, the fiber has a cross-sectional diameter of 1.0 to 25.0 T (T: thickness when 1 g is extended to 10,000 m), and a length of 0.1. Those of ˜5 mm are preferred. The content of the fiber is preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic because a sufficient long rush effect can be obtained.
In addition, the total content of other added components such as the powder and fibers is appropriately selected in the range of 1 to 50% by mass with respect to the total cosmetic amount.
The cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared by uniformly mixing and stirring the above-described components by a conventional method.

  The cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 100 to 2000 Pa · s at a temperature of 25 ° C. When the viscosity is in the above range, the adhesion to the eyelashes is good, the finish is good, and the production is easy. A more preferable viscosity is 150 to 1000 Pa · s.

  The cosmetic of the present invention is preferably used for eyelash makeup, specifically as mascara, but may also be used as eyebrows for makeup. Moreover, it can also be used as a so-called eyelash base material or top coat as well as a color pigment-containing one.

Examples 1-5, Comparative Examples 1 and 2
Cosmetics for eyelashes as shown in Table 1 were prepared. Table 1 shows the contents of components (1) to (31) of the cosmetic and the evaluation results.

  The preparation is made by heating and dissolving oils and carboxylic acids at 90 ° C. or higher among the raw materials shown in Table 1, neutralizing agent, emulsifier, water-soluble polymer, 1,3-butylene heated to 85 ° C. or higher. It added to the mixed aqueous solution of glycol, antiseptic | preservative (methylparaben), and a coloring agent (black iron oxide). This was dispersed with a homomixer and cooled to room temperature while stirring. After cooling, a resin emulsion, ethanol, and the like were added to prepare a cosmetic for eyelashes.

Evaluation method: Cosmetics were filled in a container, and 10 professional panelists freely applied to the eyelashes. The panelists themselves evaluated the finish and scored according to the following criteria. Evaluation was based on the average score of 10 people. The evaluation items are (1) curl-up effect, (2) volume-up effect, and (3) makeup effect persistence by comparison of makeup effect immediately after mascara application and after 8 hours.
5 points; very good 4 points; good 3 points; normal 2 points; bad 1 point; very bad

[note]
(* 1) Performacid 350ACID; (New Phase Technology)
(Contains 53% carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100)
(* 2) YOFCO lanolin fatty acid HH (containing 91% carboxylic acid with a total carbon number of 23 to 100)
(* 3) SYNCROWAX AW1-C (containing 13.5% carboxylic acid with a total carbon number of 23 to 100)
(* 4) Carnauba wax: “Deodorized and refined carnauba wax NO.1” (Ceralica Noda)
(* 5) Beeswax; “BEES WAX-s” (Croda Japan Co., Ltd.)
(* 6) Candelilla wax; “Refined Candelilla Wax SR-2” (Croda Japan Co., Ltd.)
(* 7) Hydrogenated jojoba oil; “Extremely hydrogenated jojoba oil” (Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
(* 8) Rice wax; “Rice wax F-1” (Serarica Noda)
(* 9) Snow wax: “Refined snow wax NO1” (Serarica Noda Co., Ltd.)
(* 10) Paraffin; “HNP-9” (Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd.)
(* 11) Microcrystalline wax; “Multiwax W445” (CKWITCO CORPORATION)
(* 12) Dipolyethylenetetramethylsiloxane; “ESE-10” (Kao Corporation)
(* 13) Behenyl alcohol; “Calcoal 220-80” (Kao Corporation)
(* 14) Alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion (46% aqueous solution); "Yodosol GH34" (NSC Japan)
(* 15) Ethyl acrylate / butyl acrylate / octyl acrylate copolymer emulsion (50% aqueous solution); “Ditosol” (Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
(* 16) Behenic acid; Shin Nippon Rika Co., Ltd.
(* 17) Stearic acid; “Lunac S-98” (Kao Corporation)
(* 18) Palmitic acid; “Lunac P-95” (Kao Corporation)
(* 19) Aminomethylpropanol; “AMP-100” (ANGUS Chemical Company)
(* 20) Aminomethylpropanediol; “AMPD” (ANGUS Chemical Company)
(* 21) L-arginine; Ajinomoto Co., Inc.
(* 22) Polyoxyethylene (7) cetyl ether; “Emulgen 210P” (Kao Corporation)
(* 23) Polyvinyl alcohol; “Gohsenol EG-5” (Nippon Synthetic Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)
(* 24) (Vinylpyrrolidone / VA) copolymer; “PVP / VA S-630” (ISP JAPAN)
(* 25) (Eicosen / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer; “ANTSRON V-220F” (ISP JAPAN)
(* 26) Black iron oxide; “PA Black BL-100” (Miyoshi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.)
(* 27) 1,3-butylene glycol; “1,3-butylene glycol P” (Kyowa Yuka Co., Ltd.)

Example 6
Mascara was produced using the following ingredients.
(mass%)
(1) Perfomacid 350ACID 7.0
(Contains 53% carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100)
(2) Carnauba wax 1.5
(3) Candelilla wax 1.5
(4) Snow wax 3.0
(5) Paraffin 5.0
(6) Dipolyethylenetetramethylsiloxane 5.0
(ESE-10 (Kao Corporation))
(7) Alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion 10.0
(Ditozole (Daito Kasei Kogyo))
(8) Behenic acid 3.0
(9) Aminomethylpropanol 1.0
(10) Aminomethylpropanediol 0.5
(11) Vinylpyrrolidone / VA copolymer 5.0
(PVP / VA S-630 (ISP JAPAN))
(12) 1.3-Butylene glycol 2.0
(13) Ethanol 3.0
(14) Methylparaben 0.15
(15) Propylparaben 0.05
(16) Phenoxyethanol 0.4
(17) Black iron oxide (PA Black BL-100 (Miyoshi Kasei Kogyo)) 5.0
(18) Purified water As a result of evaluation by the same method as described in Balance Example 1, all of the good curl-up effect, volume-up effect and persistence of the cosmetic effect were good.

Example 7
Mascara was produced using the following ingredients.
(mass%)
(1) Perfomacid 350ACID 5.0
(Contains 53% carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100)
(2) Carnauba wax 1.5
(3) Candelilla wax 4.0
(4) Rice wax 4.0
(5) Dipolyethylenetetramethylsiloxane 2.0
(ESE-10 (Kao Corporation))
(6) Daitozole (Daito Kasei Kogyo) 15.0
(Alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion)
(7) Behenic acid 1.5
(8) Stearic acid 2.0
(9) Aminomethylpropanol 1.0
(10) Aminomethylpropanediol 1.0
(11) Vinylpyrrolidone / VA copolymer 2.0
(PVP / VA S-630 (ISP JAPAN))
(12) 1.3-butylene glycol 3.0
(13) Ethanol 1.0
(14) Methylparaben 0.15
(15) Propylparaben 0.05
(16) Phenoxyethanol 0.4
(17) Black iron oxide PA black BL-100 (Miyoshi Kasei Kogyo) 5.0
(18) Purified water As a result of evaluation by the same method as described in Balance Example 1, all of the good curl-up effect, volume-up effect and persistence of the cosmetic effect were good.

The cosmetic of the present invention can be used as a mascara for eyelashes in particular, can give a good curl-up effect and volume effect to the eyelashes, can obtain a good usability and a feeling of use, and its cosmetic effect Can last for a long time.

Claims (6)

  (A) 1 to 40% by mass of a carboxylic acid having a total carbon number of 23 to 100, part of which may form a salt, (B) 1 to 40% by mass of a wax ester having a total carbon number of 24 to 100, and (C ) Oil-in-water makeup cosmetics containing 20 to 98% by weight of water.   The mass ratio (b) / (b) of the carboxylic acid (b) of the component (A) is 0 with respect to the total carboxylic acids (including those forming a salt) (b) in the cosmetic for makeup. The oil-in-water cosmetic for makeup according to claim 1, which is .21 or more.   The oil-in-water makeup cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (A) is a carboxylic acid having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon group.   The oil-in-water cosmetic for makeup according to claim 3, wherein the component (A) has a carboxyl group at the end of polyethylene.   The oil-in-water makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (D) a resin emulsion in an amount of 1 to 30% by mass in terms of solid content. The cosmetic is mascara, and the oil-in-water makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5.