JP6468891B2 - Oil makeup cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an oil-based makeup cosmetic, and more particularly to an oil-based makeup cosmetic that has a smooth spread and spreads, the makeup film is easy to blur, is not sticky, and does not feel dry over time.

  Oil-based makeup cosmetics are mainly water-based, so they are highly water-resistant and have a long-lasting cosmetic effect. It can produce effectively. Furthermore, solid and gel-like ones are preferred in the market because they are easy to carry and easy to use. However, oil-based makeup cosmetics are mainly composed of oil, so that the finish feels sticky, and a smooth feeling of use can be obtained by containing a lot of powder, but the dry feeling due to the removal of sebum. Tended to occur. Furthermore, solid or gel-like products obtained by solidifying an oil agent with solid oil tend to have poor removal at the time of starting, and tend to have a large spread at the time of application, and various studies have been made. For example, by containing a specific amount of porous powder and oil, solid cosmetic technology (Patent Document 1) that improves the non-stickiness and moist feeling, a specific amount of water and oil repellent treated powder, Technology to improve dry feeling and adhesion during use by combining a semi-solid oil agent (Patent Document 2), technology to improve elongation spread and moisture retention by combining isotridecyl isononanoate and shea fat (Patent Document 3) is known.

Japanese Patent No. 3308175 JP 2010-37213 A JP 2013-116877 A

  However, the technique of Patent Document 1 can produce a non-sticky and moist feeling, but as the content of the porous powder increases, sebum is taken into powder, resulting in a dry feeling over time. There was a drawback. Further, although the technique of Patent Document 2 can improve the dry feeling, adhesion, and makeup durability during use, the adhesion film is too strong, so that the decorative film does not stretch and spread easily, and it is difficult to blur. As the content of the oil-treated powder is increased, the durability of the cosmetic effect is improved by repelling sweat and sebum, but there is a drawback that a dry feeling is felt. Furthermore, the technique of Patent Document 3 has a drawback that, although the spread and moisture retention are improved, stickiness is generated as the shea fat content increases. For this reason, there has been a demand for the development of oil-based makeup cosmetics that have a smooth spread and spread, the cosmetic film is easy to blur, is not sticky, and does not feel dry over time.

As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have found that the combination of a solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher, tripropylene glycol, and a powder having a melting point of 25 to 50% by mass has a smooth spread and makeup. The present inventors have found that an oily makeup cosmetic can be obtained in which the film is easy to blur, is not sticky, and further does not feel dry over time, and the present invention has been completed.
That is, the present invention
[1] The following components (a) (b) and (c);
(A) a solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher;
(B) tripropylene glycol;
(C) 25-50 mass% of powder;
Containing oily makeup cosmetics,
[2] The oily makeup cosmetic according to the above [1], wherein the contents of the components (a) and (b) are (a) 1 to 15% by mass and (b) 0.1 to 40% by mass. ,
[3] The oily makeup cosmetic according to the above [1] or [2], wherein the component (a) is a solid oil having a melting point of 80 ° C. or higher,
[4] The oily makeup cosmetic according to any one of the above [1] to [3], wherein the content of the component (c) is 30 to 45% by mass,
[5] The oily makeup cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], which is an oily gel cosmetic.

  The present invention relates to an oil-based makeup cosmetic composition that has a smooth spread and spread, the decorative film is easily blurred, is not sticky, and further has no dry feeling over time.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, and one or more of them can be used. Specifically, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, (ethylene / propylene) copolymer, candelilla wax, candelilla wax esters, carnauba wax, rice wax, etc. Can be given. Among these, polyethylene wax, ozokerite wax, and (ethylene / propylene) copolymer are more preferable in terms of producing a non-sticky cosmetic film. Examples of commercially available products include PERFORMALENE 500 (manufactured by New Phase Technology), synthetic ceresin SP-273P (manufactured by STRAHL & PITSCH), EPS wax (manufactured by Nippon Natural Products), and the like.

  The component (a) solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the melting point is 55 ° C. or higher, but is preferably 65 ° C. or higher, more preferably 80 ° C. The temperature is 130 ° C. or lower. When the melting point is 55 ° C. or lower, stickiness peculiar to the oil agent is caused, and it becomes impossible to impart an appropriate viscosity to the decorative film, and it becomes unstable during use and cannot be blurred cleanly. The melting point can be measured by the quasi-drug raw material standard 2006 general test method and the melting point test method first method.

  The content of the component (a) solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher is preferably 1 to 15% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), more preferably 2 to 10%. is there. If it is this range, it is preferable at the point which implement | achieves the ease of blurring of a decorative film, and a decorative film without stickiness.

The component (b) tripropylene glycol in the present invention is represented by the following formula (1), and is represented by INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient) name: tripropylene glycol, PPG-3.

H (OCH2CH (CH3)) nOH (Formula 1)
(Where n is an average of 3)

Component (b) has a higher affinity with the oil than that of the dimer, and can exhibit good compatibility with the oil. Examples of commercially available products include New Pole PP-200 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries).

  The content of the component (b) in the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 40%, and more preferably 0.5 to 25%, in view of realizing a feeling of dryness and no stickiness over time. preferable.

  The component (c) powder used in the present invention is usually used in cosmetics, and has a spherical shape, a plate shape, a needle shape, a mist shape, a fine particle, a particle size such as a pigment grade, a porous material, It is not particularly limited by the particle structure such as non-porous, and examples thereof include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, and composite powders. Specifically, white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and barium sulfate, colored inorganics such as iron oxide, carbon black, titanium / titanium oxide sintered product, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen and ultramarine blue Pigment, silica, talc, muscovite, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite, sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, Antimony oxide, diatomaceous earth, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, etc. white powder, titanium oxide coated mica , Titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide mica Bright powder such as Tungsten, Bituminous treated mica titanium, Carmine treated Mica titanium, Bismuth oxychloride, Fish scale foil, Polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, Polyethylene terephthalate / Polyolefin laminated film powder, Polyethylene terephthalate / Polymethyl methacrylate laminated film powder Body, polyamide resin, polyethylene resin, polyacrylic resin, polyester resin, fluorine resin, cellulose resin, polystyrene resin, copolymer resin such as styrene-acrylic copolymer resin, polypropylene resin, urethane resin, etc. Organic polymer resin powder, organic low molecular weight powder such as zinc stearate, N-acyl lysine, natural organic powder such as silk powder, cellulose powder, dextrin powder, red 201, red 202, red 2 No. 5, Red No. 226, Red No. 228, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Blue No. 404, Yellow No. 401, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow Organic pigment powders such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes such as No. 5, Green No. 3 and Blue No. 1 or metal powders such as aluminum powder, gold powder and silver powder, fine titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine zinc oxide coated mica Examples thereof include composite powders such as titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and fibers such as nylon, polyester, rayon, and cellulose. These may be surface-treated with a fluorine compound, silicone oil, powder, oil agent, gelling agent, emulsion polymer, surfactant or the like. These powders can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and may be further combined.

  Content of the component (c) powder used for this invention is 25 to 50%, More preferably, it is 30 to 45%. If it is this range, it is preferable at the point which implement | achieves the smooth expansion spread and non-stickiness. If the content of the component (C) powder is less than 25%, stickiness of the decorative film is caused, which is not preferable. If it exceeds 50%, the spread of spread during use is deteriorated.

  In addition to the components (a) to (c) described above, the oily makeup cosmetic of the present invention includes components usually used in cosmetics, oil component, surfactant, polyhydric alcohol, water-soluble polymer, water-soluble -Containing film-forming resin, aqueous components such as humectants, saccharides, UV absorbers, anti-fading agents, antioxidants, antifoaming agents, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, fragrances, etc., as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired can do.

  As the oil component, any oil that is usually used in cosmetics can be used without any particular restrictions, regardless of the origin, such as animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, or the properties of semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile oil, etc. Hydrocarbons, fats and oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, fluorinated oils, and the like can be used. Specifically, liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene hydrocarbons, olive oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil and other oils, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, Neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, tri (caprylic / capric) glyceryl, jojoba oil, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, diisostearyl malate, fatty acids such as isostearic acid and oleic acid, oleyl alcohol, Examples include higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol, fluorine-based oils such as perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, and perfluoropolyether, and oil-soluble cosmetic ingredients.

  Content of the oil agent component used for this invention is 25 to 75 %%, More preferably, it is 40 to 60 %%.

As the surfactant, any surfactant that is generally used in cosmetics can be used. Nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, etc. Is mentioned.
The aqueous component may be any component that is soluble in water. In addition to water, for example, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, aloe vera, witch. Plant extracts such as hazel, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, rose water and the like can be mentioned.
Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone-based, PABA-based, cinnamic acid-based, salicylic acid-based, such as 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, 2-methoxyhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 2, 4,6-tris [4- (2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3,5-triazine, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and the like can be mentioned.
Examples of the antioxidant include tocopherol and ascorbic acid, examples of the beauty component include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, herbal medicines, and examples of the antiseptic include paraoxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentadiol, and the like. .

  The oil-based makeup cosmetic of the present invention contains an oil agent as a main component and has a water content of 1% or less and does not substantially contain water. The dosage form can be applied to a solid form, a gel form, etc., but the gel form is particularly effective and preferable. The gel state here has fluidity at room temperature. The oily makeup cosmetics of the present invention are suitable for cheek color, eye color, eyebrow, foundation, concealer, particularly eye color and cheek color.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.
Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 Oily eye color (gel)
An oily eye color having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared by the following method. Smooth expansion, b. Ease of blurring of makeup film, c. No stickiness, d. Sensory evaluation was performed according to the following evaluation methods and judgment criteria for each item of lack of dryness. The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1: PERFORMALENE 500 (New Phase Technology, melting point 90 ° C)
* 2: Refined carnauba wax NO. 1 (manufactured by Celalica Noda, melting point 85 ° C)
* 3: Saracos 334 (Nisshin Oillio Group, melting point 40 ° C)
* 4: New Pole PP-200 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries)
* 5: DPG-RF (made by ADEKA)
* 6: EUTANOL G (BASF)
* 7: AEROSIL 380S (Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.)
* 8: FLAMENCO ORANGE (manufactured by BASF) 2% methyl hydrogen polysiloxane treatment * 9: Microglass Metashine MT1080RS (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass)
* 10: Tospearl 2000B (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)
* 11: PDM-10L (Topy Industries, Ltd.) 1% perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine salt treatment * 12: Toray nylon powder SP-500 (Toray Industries, Inc.)

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (10) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C. and mixed. B: Components (11) to (23) are added to A and dispersed uniformly while cooling with a roll mill.
C: B is filled into a jar at room temperature.

(Evaluation method)
For evaluation items (i) to (d), ask 20 cosmetic panels to use the oily eye color of the examples and comparative examples, perform absolute evaluation according to the following criteria, and further determine the average score of all panels as follows: Judgment was made according to criteria. Evaluation items A to C were evaluated immediately after use, and evaluation item D was evaluated 2 hours after application.
<Evaluation criteria>
(Score): (Evaluation)
6 points: Very good 5 points: Good 4 points: Slightly good 3 points: Normal 2 points: Bad 1 point: Very bad <Criteria>
(Judgment): (Average score)
◎: More than 5 points ○: 5 points or less exceeding 3.5 points △: 3.5 points or less exceeding 2 points ×: 2 points or less

As is clear from the results in Table 1, the oily eye colors of Examples 1 to 7 of the present invention products have a smooth extension and spread, ease of blurring of the cosmetic film, no stickiness, and drying compared to Comparative Examples 1 to 5. It was excellent in all items with no feeling.
On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 using dipropylene glycol having a low degree of polymerization instead of component (b) tripropylene glycol has low compatibility with the oil agent component and lacks uniformity, so that it feels dry and is moderate. Since no viscosity was imparted, satisfactory results were not obtained in terms of smooth spreading and ease of blurring of the decorative film. Further, in Comparative Example 2 in which 2-octyldodecanol was used as an oil agent having a low molecular weight instead of component (b) tripropylene glycol, stickiness peculiar to the oil agent was produced, and a satisfactory one was not obtained. In Comparative Example 3 where the melting point of component (a) does not contain a solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher, an appropriate viscosity cannot be imparted, and the ease of blurring of the cosmetic film and the stickiness peculiar to the oil agent are felt and satisfactory I couldn't get anything. Further, in Comparative Example 4 using a solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or lower, as in Comparative Example 3, the oil agent feels sticky, and satisfactory viscosity cannot be imparted, so that it is satisfactory in terms of ease of blurring. Was not obtained. Furthermore, in Comparative Example 5 in which the content of the component (c) powder was small, the stickiness peculiar to the oil agent and the cosmetic film were slid and could not be satisfactorily blurred.

Example 8: Oily cheek color (solid form)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Fischer-Tropsch wax * 13 5
(2) Microcrystalline wax * 14 7
(3) Diisostearyl malate 10
(4) Liquid paraffin remaining amount (5) 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 10
(6) Tripropylene glycol * 4 25
(7) Sericite * 15 5
(8) Titanium oxide 5
(9) Red 202 No. 0.3
(10) Yellow No. 4 0.5
(11) Polymethyl methacrylate * 16 5
(12) (Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane)
Cross polymer * 17 10
(13) Lauroyl lysine * 18 5
(14) Natural vitamin E 0.05
(15) Rose water 1
* 13: CIREBELLE108 (CIREBELLE, melting point 82 ° C)
* 14: MULTIWAX W445 (manufactured by SONNEBORN, melting point 80 ° C)
* 15: Treated with 2% dimethylpolysiloxane * 16: Matsumoto Microsphere M-101 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)
* 17: KSP-101 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
* 18: Amihope LL (Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (6) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C. and mixed. B: Components (7) to (15) are added to A and dispersed uniformly while cooling with a roll mill.
C: B is filled into a metal pan at 90 ° C.
The oily cheek color (solid form) of Example 8 spreads smoothly, the makeup film was easily blurred, was not sticky, and was excellent in dryness.

Example 9: Oily foundation (solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) (Ethylene / Propylene) Copolymer * 19 10
(2) Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 20
(3) Dimethylpolysiloxane 5
(4) Squalane 5
(5) Di-2-ethylhexanoic acid neopentyl glycol Residual amount (6) Tripropylene glycol * 4 5
(7) Mica 10
(8) Sericite 10
(9) Talc 5
(10) Bengala 0.5
(11) Yellow iron oxide 1
(12) Black iron oxide 0.5
(13) Oxybenzone 0.1
(14) Glycerin 0.5
(15) Phenoxyethanol 0.2
* 19: EPS wax (Nippon Natural Products, melting point 95 ° C)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (6) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C. and mixed. B: Components (7) to (15) are added to A and dispersed uniformly while cooling with a roll mill.
C: B is filled into a resin dish at 90 ° C.
The oily foundation (solid form) of Example 9 spreads smoothly, the makeup film was easily blurred, was not sticky, and was excellent in dryness.

Example 10: Oily concealer (gel)
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Candelilla wax * 20 3
(2) Dialkyl carbonate 10
(3) isononyl isononanoate 10
(4) Jojoba oil 10
(5) Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining amount (6) Dilauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl /
Phytosteryl / behenyl) 10
(7) Heavy liquid paraffin 5
(8) Tripropylene glycol * 4 1
(9) Silicic anhydride * 21 30
(10) Zinc oxide 5
(11) Bengala clothing mica titanium * 22 10
(12) Rosemary extract 0.1
* 20: NC-1630 candelilla wax (manufactured by Celerica Noda, melting point 72 ° C)
* 21: SILICA MICRO BEAD BA-1 (manufactured by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals)
* 22: Clousonage flambe (manufactured by BASF)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (8) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C. and mixed. B: Components (9) to (12) are added to A and dispersed uniformly while cooling.
C: B is filled into a container with an application body at room temperature.
The oil-based concealer (gel form) of Example 10 spreads smoothly, the makeup film was easily blurred, was not sticky, and was excellent in dryness.

Claims (7)

The following components (a) (b) and (c);
(A) a solid oil having a melting point of 55 ° C. or higher;
(B) 10-40% by mass of tripropylene glycol;
(C) Powder 25-50 mass%;
Is an oil-based makeup cosmetic. The oil-based makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the component (a) is (a) 1 to 15% by mass . The oily makeup cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (a) is a solid oil having a melting point of 80 ° C or higher. The oily makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the content of the component (c) is 30 to 45% by mass. The oily makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is an oily gel cosmetic. The component (a) is polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, (ethylene / propylene) copolymer, candelilla wax, candelilla wax esters, carnauba wax, and The oily makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is at least one selected from the group consisting of rice wax. The oily makeup cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of the oil component is 25 to 75%.