DE19615578A1 - Use of Salix nigra extract as an anti-irritant agent in cosmetic and topical dermatological preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of salix nigra extract for the cosmetic or dermatological treatment and/or prevention of irritative and/or erythematous skin conditions.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of a known effect fabric, for cosmetic and topical dermatological treatment and / or Prophylaxis of erythematous or inflammatory phenomena, especially derma roar. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a be knew drug to prevent irritative or inflammatory Hauterscheinun gene using conventional cosmetic or topical dermatological To preparation or use of such an active substance. Reduction of the ir potential of conventional cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations obligations. Moreover, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so called "stinging potential".

The skin, especially the epidermis, is considered a barrier organ of the human organ particularly exposed to external influences. The epidermis is rich with nerves and Nervendendapparaten as Father Pacini lamellar bodies, Mer kel-cell neurite complexes and free nerve endings for pain, cold, Heat sensation and itching equipped.

For people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, one with "Stin went "(to sting" = injure, burn, hurt) called neuroses soric phenomenon can be observed. This "sensitive skin" is different basically of "dry skin" with thickened and hardened horny layers.  

Typical reactions of "Stinging" in sensitive skin are redness, tension and Burning of the skin as well as itching.

The neurosensory phenomenon is the itching of atopic skin, as well as itching in skin diseases.

"Stinging" phenomena can be considered to be cosmetically treatable disorders be. Severe itching on the other hand, especially at atopy Skin itchy, may also be a more serious dermatological disorder be drawn.

Typical associated with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" brought annoying neurosensory phenomena are redness, tingling, prik nipping, tightening and burning of the skin and itching. They can be stimulating Environmental conditions z. As massage, surfactant action, weather influence as Son ne, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, heat radiation and UV radiation ment, z. B. the sun, are caused.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, p. 197-209 (May 1977) be write P.J. Frog and A.M. Kligman a method for estimating the "Stin potentials of topically administered substances as positive substances here z. As lactic acid and pyruvic acid used. When measuring after this However, amino acids, especially glycine, were also found to be neurosensory actively determined (such substances are called "Stinger").

According to previous findings, such sensitivity occurs completely individually different substances. This means a person who experiences "stinging effects" when in contact with a substance, gets them high To experience the probability of each further contact repeatedly. The contact with but other "stingers" can just as easily pass without any reaction.

Many more or less sensitive people have also when using one deodorising or antiperspirant preparations under ery to suffer from thematic skin symptoms.  

Erythema also occurs more frequently in the diaper area of toddlers, the more of Infants.

The erythematous effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength smaller than 290 nm is (the so-called UVC range), from the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere be absorbed, cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB area, an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the tighter Range indicated around 308 nm.

Erythematous skin symptoms also occur as side effects in certain skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical Rash on the appearance of acne regularly more or less strong reddened. In the case of impure skin, bacterial secondary are among other influences Infections of etiologic significance. One of the most important microorganisms, the related to impure skin is Propionibacterium acnes.

Impure skin and / or comedones affect the well-being of those affected but even in light cases. Since practically everyone or every young person from un pure skin of any severity is found in many persons is allowed to remedy this condition.

With the full picture of the acne, but also with lighter characteristics, are Entzün Acne pustules are common. The state of the art let it Active ingredients that provide a satisfactory treatment in the sense of a cure, as well a camouflage, so a cosmetic coverage of the Comedone, lack.

Object of the present invention, it was therefore a against inflamed Comedo NEN effective substance or combination of substances.  

In about 10% of the population of industrial countries, with recently rising ten denz is the atopy to observe a familial hypersensitivity of the Skin and mucous membranes against environmental substances, with increased readiness, ge substances from the natural environment hypersensitivity reactions of Develop immediate type. Atopy is probably genetic. Atopy can prove to be express atopic dermatitis.

It was therefore the object of the present invention, the disadvantages described of the prior art.

In particular, active substances and preparations containing such active substances should for cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis erythe maternal, inflammatory or allergic symptoms, in particular dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "Stinging" be made available.

Most common manifestations of cosmetic or topically applied dermatology shear preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more several fat or oil phases are present next to one or more water phases. Of these systems, in turn, the actual emulsions are the furthest widespread.

In simple emulsions are in one phase finely dispersed, enclosed by a Emulga torhülle enclosed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) before. The droplet diameters of the usual emulsions are in the range of about 1 .mu.m to about 50 .mu.m. Such "macroemulsions" are, without further coloring additives, milky white colored and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions" whose droplet diameters are in the range of about 10 ^-1 microns to about 1 micron are, again without coloring additives, bluish white colored and opaque. Such "macroemulsions" usually have high viscosity.

By contrast, the droplet diameter of microemulsions ranges from about 10 ^-2 μm to about 10 ^-1 μm. Microemulsions are translucent and usually low viscosity.

For example, the viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable with the water.

Advantage of microemulsions is that in the disperse phase active ingredients fine di may be present as in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". A white terer advantage is that they can be sprayed due to their low viscosity. Who The microemulsions used as cosmetics, corresponding Pro produced by high cosmetic elegance.

In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like any chemical substance, can be used on an individual basis allergic reactions or reactions due to hypersensitivity of the user cause.

So it is known that certain light dermatoses by certain emulsifiers, but also by different fats, and simultaneous exposure to sunlight triggered (eg the so-called "Mallorca Acne"). Emulsifier-free finely dispersed acc Preparations from an oil and a water phase usually do not become emulsi but, depending on the type, called hydrodispersions or lipodispersions and have been accessible to the consumer for some time.

Hydrodispersions make dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid In contrast to O / W emulsions, which are characterized by a similar Designate phase arrangement, hydrodispersions are substantially free of Emulsifiers. Hydrodispersions, as well as emulsions metasta bile systems, and are inclined to enter a state of two in themselves to pass on coherent discrete phases. In emulsions prevents the Choice of a suitable emulsifier, the phase separation.

For hydrodispersions of a liquid lipid phase in an external aqueous phase For example, the stability of such a system can be ensured by those who in that in the aqueous phase a gel skeleton is built up, in which the lipid droplets are stably suspended.  

W / O lipid dispersions, which constitute the subject of the present invention are in the opposite analogy emulsifier-free finely dispersed preparations of Type water-in-oil.

Usual, and especially in recent times increasingly widespread cosmetic and dermatological preparation forms, which emulsifier-free but also emulsifier are gels. In the technical sense, gels are understood as: Relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems of at least two Components, which are usually made of a - usually solid - colloid-divided material from long-chain molecular groupings (eg gelatine, silicic acid, polysaccharides) as a scaffold former and a liquid dispersion medium (eg water). The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickener or gelling agent. He forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, wherein individual colloidally Particles via electrostatic interaction with each other more or less ger can be firmly linked. The dispersing agent, which transforms the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for gelling agent, d. h., a before predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels polar dispersant (especially: water), whereas a predominantly un polar gelling agent preferably gelled nonpolar dispersants.

Strong electrostatic interactions, for example in hydrogen bridging bonds between gelling agent and dispersing agent, but also between Dispersant molecules are realized with each other, can lead to strong Ver wetting of the dispersant. Hydrogels can be almost 100% off Consist of water (in addition to, for example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and have a solid consistency. The water content is in eisähnli For this reason, gels are therefore derived from their name origin [from lat latum "=" Frozen "about the alchemical expression" gelatina "(16th century) for the modern term. "Gelatine" can do justice.

In cosmetic and pharmaceutical galenics are also lipogels and Oleogels (from waxes, fats and fatty oils) as well as carbogels (from paraffin or petrolatum). In practice one differentiates between oleogels, which prak  water-free, hydrogels, which are virtually fat-free. Mostly Gels transparent. Drawing in cosmetic or pharmaceutical galenics Gels are usually characterized by semi-solid, often flowable consistency.

Also cosmetic sticks, especially lipsticks, preferably lip balms, but also deodorant sticks ("deodorant sticks") are common preparations.

The skin of the lips has only an extremely thin horny layer. sweat are not on the lips to find sebaceous glands only sporadically. Therefore, the lip penis is virtually free of fat and tending, especially in cold and dry ter, to dehydrate. It can form small cracks in the skin, and the Sensitivity of the lips to chemical, physical and microbial Influences (eg foods, sunlight, herpes simplex viruses) increase.

To prevent this is the job of lip balms. These products contain mostly to a high proportion of waxes and fat components, which after the on wear a covering layer over your lips.

Technically, almost all lipsticks are anhydrous fat blends of fe semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, the highly purified paraffins fin oils and waxes are the basis of the lipstick.

According to the ideal requirement profile, lipsticks should be smooth and without big ones Apply friction resistance. In addition, a lipstick is already at light tem pressure a non-greasy, dull or sticky, but still good give off sticky fatty film to the lips. Through this greasy film, the lips then smooth and supple.

In addition, active ingredients can be incorporated in the preparations for lip balm tet, which are beneficial to lip care or lip protection, z. B. Vitami moisturizers, sunscreens, covering pigments, etc.

A major disadvantage of the prior art, however, is that the incorporation of the lip penpflege beneficial drugs, ie in particular against irritative and / or ery  Thematic skin conditions of effective substances in the basic masses of cosmetic Pins, be it for the lip care or the deodorant area, extremely problema table or in individual cases was impossible.

An object of the present invention was therefore further, against irritative and / or erythematous skin conditions to find effective substances, which in all pre called (but also in possibly unnamed, usual) kosmeti or dermatological dosage forms can be incorporated nen, and / or what the irritation potential aforementioned (but also given if not mentioned, usual) cosmetic or topical dermatological Reduce dosage forms.

All objects are achieved according to the invention.

Salix nigra extract, hereinafter also "the active ingredient used in the invention" called, develops anti-irritative, especially anti-inflammatory and anti-erythematous Effect.

Salix nigra extract is also known as willow extract, especially the Black willow (Black Willow) and commercially available.

Preference is given to willow bark extract (Willow Bark Extract) from Salix nigra (Black Willow). He is in the trade z. B. under the name NAB Willow Bark Extract (Manufacturer: Brook Industries Inc., N.J., USA) available.

Salix nigra extract is obtained, for example, by aqueous extraction and can z. B. concentrated by vacuum distillation. Usually z. B. Concentrations are set, based on salicin 5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 10 to 15 wt .-% amount.

Amazingly, the use of Salix nigra extract for cosmetic helps or dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis irritative and / or erythematous skin symptoms from the disadvantages of the prior art.  

The present invention is particularly embodied by the use of Salix nigra extract for cosmetic or dermatological treatment and / or Prophylaxis of irritative and / or erythematous skin symptoms, especially the Use for the control and prophylaxis of erythematous skin Symptoms of blemished skin or acne vulgaris, especially inflamed Comedones, with reddened skin of toddlers in diaper area, with inflamed Skin around the mouth and nose area, in herpes labialis, in sunburn, at slight skin fissures. Furthermore, the present invention is embodied by Use of Salix nigra extract for the control and prophylaxis of so-called "stingings", the use of salix nigra extract for treatment atopic dermatitis, type I and IV skin allergies and the use of Salix nigra extract to increase the stimulation threshold of sensitive skin.

According to the invention, the content of Salix nigra extract in the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations e.g. B. 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 Wt .-%, in particular 0.2-2.0 wt .-% amount, based on the total weight of the preparations. Particularly preferred are the above mentioned preparation forms.

It has surprisingly been found that verwen the invention The active ingredient fulfills the objects underlying the invention. At invent It is even possible in principle to use preparations according to this use For this customary active ingredients, to choose auxiliaries and additives, which in itself not special are mild, since their possible irritative, erythema-promoting We kung on particularly sensitive persons of the invention used Active substance can be compensated.

This property makes the active ingredient used in the invention in particular Re suitable as a relief-creating minor component of cosmetics or topi dermatics in applications where skin irritation is almost inevitable is. An example of such applications is the cosmetic or medical Be Treatment of blemished skin or acne vulgaris, in which regularly erythematö se skin symptoms occur as a side effect.  

As a particularly advantageous embodiment, therefore, the use of Salix nigra extract for the control and prophylaxis of erythematous Skin symptoms seen in blemished skin or acne vulgaris.

It should be emphasized that the subject matter of the present teaching in no way the be think-less use of substances that are harmful to health should. Rather, the present teaching relates to the extension of use properties of some harmless substances to these substances despite all, sensitive people.

Advantageously, the active ingredient used in the invention can be incorporated in usual cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which in different Forms may be present. So they can z. B. a solution, an emulsion of the type Water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsi onions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water type. in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or also an aerosol.

According to the invention emulsions, z. B. in shape a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sunscreen or sunscreen, are beneficial and contain z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, and water and one or more emulsifiers as commonly used for such a type the formulation can be used.

It is also possible and advantageous within the meaning of the present invention, the inventions used according to the active ingredient in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations to clean the skin and hair.

It is well known to those skilled in that sophisticated cosmetic Zusam Compositions usually not without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes,  Emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, Stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteoly table or keratolytic substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis apply corresponding requirements to the formulation medizi nischer preparations.

Medical topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical application and related products to the statutory Provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Kosmetikverord Regulation, Food and Drug Law).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient according to the invention as Add additive to preparations that already have other active ingredients for others Purposes included.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological composition tongues according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example can be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, Nourishing cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and available Partly, the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmazeu to use table formulations.

In particular, the active ingredient used according to the invention can be used as an additive in cosmetic deodorants or antiperspirants. As desodo or antiperspirant effective agents can then the usual, the Be familiar with known substances known. For example, through Astringents - predominantly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (Aluchlor hydrate) - the formation of sweat can be prevented.  

By using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants can The bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced. Ideally, only the Odor-causing microorganisms are effectively reduced. Are advantageous For example, monocarboxylic acid esters of di- or triglycerol. But others too antimicrobial substances are suitable.

According to the invention, even the use itself is not particularly mild desodo active or acting as antiperspirants active ingredients possible and given if advantageous, since their eventual erythema-promoting effect of erfindungsge According to the active ingredient used can be compensated.

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in in the form of a sunscreen. Preferably, these contain next the active ingredient used according to the invention additionally at least one UVA-Fil tersubstanz and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

But it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions, such kosmeti and dermatological preparations, the main ones of which are Purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but still a content Contain UV protective substances. For example, in day creams are usually Incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances.

Also favorable are such cosmetic and dermatological preparations in Meaning of the present invention which is in the form of a sunscreen agent Preferably, these contain in addition to the invention used Active ingredient additionally at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

But it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions, such kosmeti and dermatological preparations, the main ones of which are Purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but still a content  Contain UV protective substances. So z. B. in day creams usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of Filterubstan zen z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are z. To name, for example:

• - 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, for. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) cam pher,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- methoxycinnamate;
• - Salicylic acid esters, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe non, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2 ethylhexyl ester);
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, eg. For example, sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-meth oxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornyl demethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfone acid and its salts.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention of course, should not be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of an inventive UVA filters with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or derma according to the invention tological preparation, which also contains a UVB filter.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are included. Such filter substances are preferably Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-meth oxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Even preparations containing these combinations are the subject of Er making. The same amounts of UVA filter substances can be used those mentioned for UVB filter substances.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present invention The invention may also include inorganic pigments commonly used in the art Cosmetics are used to protect the skin from UV rays. It acts oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, alumi niums, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides of the active agents are. Particularly preferred are pigments on the Base of titanium dioxide. It may be called that for the above combinations quantities are used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be NEN cosmetic active ingredients, excipients and / or additives, as they usually be used in such preparations, for. As antioxidants, Konservie agents, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, Dyes, pigments that have coloring properties, thickeners, surfaces active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moist holding substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a  cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is advantageous for the preparations according to the present invention further add anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory agents, in particular batyl alcohol (α-octadecyl glyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenyl glyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is also advantageous for the preparations according to the present invention Add usual antioxidants. According to the invention can be used as cheap Antioxi all of them suitable for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications or common antioxidants.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and its derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β- Carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg Dihydroli acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, Thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, Nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) - Chelators (eg, α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α- Hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, na saturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), Folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), Toco  pherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as benzoic coniferyl benzoate resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydro xytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiakolic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their deri vate, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO₄) selenium and its derivatives (eg. Selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleo tide, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparation is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 Wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zube reitung.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant or antioxidants, is advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of present The invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion can as Lö be used:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably Castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably example, esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, z. B. with isopropa nol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkane acid low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Example, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, mono ethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analog products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents verwen det. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or Lipodispersi Ones in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a ketone length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic car Bonsäuren and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unver branched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can be NEN then be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropylpal mitat, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethyl hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, Erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural gemi such esters, eg. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Al alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids ei ner chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglyl For example, cerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthe tables, semi-synthetic and natural oils, eg. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, so jaöl, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be appropriate  be advantageous, waxes, such as cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component to use the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyl dodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkylbenzoate, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexyliso stearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and Mi mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are beneficial in the Use of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further contain cyclic or linear silicone have oils or consist entirely of such oils, although before is added, except the silicone oil or silicone oils to an additional content to use other oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous according to the invention used to be used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial for the purposes of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcy clotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Furthermore, mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyliso are particularly advantageous nonanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

Gels used in the invention usually contain lower alcohols C number, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or a before standing oil in the presence of a thickening agent, the oily alcoholic gels preferably silica or an aluminum silicate, in aqueous-alko is preferably a polyacrylate.  

Fixed pins contain z. As natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or Fatty acid ester. Lip balm sticks and stick formulations are preferred Körperdesodorierung.

Usual raw materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of are suitable liquid oils (eg. Isopropyl myristate), semi-solid ingredients (eg, petrolatum, lanolin), solid ingredients (eg beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and high melting waxes (eg carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

As a propellant for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or derma For the purposes of the present invention, tological preparations are the usual be knew volatile, liquefied propellant, such as hydrocarbon fe (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable alone or in mixture with one another can be set. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are nontoxic propellants per se which basically for the realization of the present invention in the form of Aero solpräparaten would be suitable, but nevertheless because of questionable effect the environment or other accompanying circumstances should be waived, esp hydrofluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

For cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the present Invention for the skin or hair cleansing is, for example, sham poonierungsmittel. Also, bath, shower and hand washing preparations are advantageous Embodiments of the present invention.

Furthermore, preparations for the purposes of the present invention for the Verwen on the hair are preparations which, when rinsing the hair before or after shampooing, before or after perming, before or after The coloring or discoloration of the hair can be applied to preparations for blow-drying or inserting the hair, preparations for dyeing or decolorizing, a hairdressing and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or permanent waving agent.  

Cosmetic preparations for the purposes of the present invention, which are skin cleansers represent or shampoo, preferably contain minde at least one surface-active substance, or mixtures of such Substan zen, selected from the group of anionic, cationic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, e.g. B. fatty acid salts of Sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates, sulfoacetate tate, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates, amidosulfobetaines, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccin acid monoesters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein-fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines and amidobetaines, fatty acid alkanolamides and / or polyglycol ether derivatives., a effective amount of the active ingredient according to the invention, and optionally auxiliary agents, as they are usually used for this.

The surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can in a concentration of between 1% and 50% by weight in the skin cleansing medium or shampoo.

Are the cosmetic or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present Present invention in the form of a lotion that rinsed and z. B. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampoos treatment steps, before or after the permanent wave treatment, we act it is z. As to aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, the given if surface-active substances are present, preferably non-ionic or cationic surface active substances whose concentration is between 0.1 and 10 Wt .-%, preferably between 0.2 and 5 wt .-%, may be. This cosmeti and / or dermatological preparations can also aerosols with the represent commonly used tools.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion according to the present invention which is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inserting the hair, a lotion that is used to blow-dry your hair, a hair-dressing and a treat lotion, is generally an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic tion and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic  beautiful or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as the erfin to the invention drug combinations. The amount of polymers used is z. B. between 0.1 and 10 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 3 wt .-%.

Cosmetic preparations for the purposes of the present invention for the treatment and care of the hair containing the active ingredient used in the invention, may be present as emulsions of the non-ionic or anionic type are. Non-ionic emulsions contain, in addition to water, oils or fatty alcohols which for example, polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, or also Mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions contain optionally cationic surface-active substances.

Cosmetic preparations for the purposes of the present invention for the treatment and hair care may be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective Ge containing the active ingredient according to the invention and Lo used therefor sizing agents, preferably water, organic thickeners, z. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Quantities, percentages or parts relate, unless otherwise stated indicated on the weight, in particular on the total weight of Preparations or the respective mixture.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

In the examples, Salix nigra extract is the commercially available NAB Willow Bark Extract (Brook Industries Inc., NJ, USA) at 12% by weight Wt .-% salicin based on the total weight of the extract used.

example 1 W / O cream Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 10.00 petrolatum 4.00 Wool alcohol 1.00 PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 Salix nigra extract 0.50 glycerin 2.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

Example 2 W / O lotion Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 20.00 petrolatum 4.00 Glucosesesquiisostearat 2.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 Salix nigra extract 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00 glycerin 5.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 3 O / W lotion Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 8.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 petrolatum 4.00, Cetylstearylalkohol 2.00 PEG 40 castor oil 0.50 sodium cetylstearyl 0.50 Sodium carbomer 0.40 Salix nigra extract 0.50 glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20 octyl 5.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. Water ad 100.00

Example 4 O / W cream Wt .-% Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 7.00 avocado oil 4.00 glyceryl 2.00 Salix nigra extract 0.50 Titanium dioxide 1.00 sodium lactate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 5 Lip Balm Wt .-% Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00 ceresin 8.00 beeswax 4.00 carnauba 2.00 petrolatum 40,00 Salix nigra extract 0.50 β-carotene 0.10 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. paraffin oil ad 100.00

Example 6 Lip Balm Wt .-% isopropyl 10.00 acetylated lanolin 4.00 Beeswax, bleached 9.00 carnauba 4.00 petrolatum 40,00 Salix nigra extract 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 0.10 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. paraffin oil ad 100.00

Example 7 Liposome-containing gel Wt .-% lecithin 6.00 shea butter 3.00 Salix nigra extract 0.50 α-tocopherol 0.20 biotin 0.08 sodium citrate 0.50 glycine 0.20 urea 0.20 Sodium PCA 0.50 Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00 Xanthan gum 1.40 sorbitol 3.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 8 gel Wt .-% Carbopol 934 P 2.00 triethanolamine 3.00 Salix nigra extract 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 0.20 Polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (Tween 20) 0.50 glycerin 2.00 Sodium PCA 0.50 Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 9 Sunscreen Emulsion Wt .-% cyclomethicone 2.00 Cetyl dimethicone copolyol 0.20 PEG 22-dodecyl copolymer 3.00 Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 2.00 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 5.80 octyl 5.80 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.00 Salix nigra extract 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 0.50 ZnSO₄ 0.70 Na₄EDTA 0.30 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 10 Sunscreen Emulsion Wt .-% cyclomethicone 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40-hydrogenated castor oil + sodium cetylstearylsulfate 2.50 glyceryl 1.00 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 0.10 Laurylmethicone copolyol 2.00 octyl 3.00 castor oil 4.00 glycerin 3.00 Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.30 octyl 5.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.50 Salix nigra extract 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00 Na₃HEDTA 1.50 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. Water ad 100,00

Example 11 Sunscreen Emulsion Wt .-% Cyclomethicone 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40-hydrogenated castor oil + sodium cetylstearylsulfate 2.50 glyceryl 1.00 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 0.10 Laurylmethicone copolyol 2.00 octyl 3.00 castor oil 4.00 glycerin 3.00 Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.30 octyl 5.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.75 Salix nigra extract 0.50 Na₃HEDTA 1.50 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 12 massage cream Wt .-% stearyl 2.00 petrolatum 4.00 dimethicone 2.00 isopropyl palmitate 6.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 4.00 PEG 40 Hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 α-tocopherol 0.50 Salix nigra extract 0.50 glycerin 3.00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 13 tonic Wt .-% ethanol 40,00 diisopropyl 0.10 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.20 Salix nigra extract 0.50 a-tocopheryl acetate 0.10 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 14 spray formulation Wt .-% α-tocopherol 0.10 Salix nigra extract 0.50 ethanol 28,20 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. Propane / butane 25/75 ad 100.00

Claims (6)

1. Use of Salix nigra extract for cosmetic or dermatological Treatment and / or prophylaxis of irritant and / or erythematous skin damage calculations. 2. Use according to claim 1 for the control and prophylaxis of Erythematö sen skin symptoms in blemished skin or acne vulgaris, especially in Inflamed comedones, with reddened skin of toddlers in the diaper area, at inflamed skin around the mouth / nose area, in case of herpes labialis, in case of sunburn, with slight skin fissures. 3. Use of Salix nigra extract for the control and prophylaxis of so-called "stingings". 4. Use of Salix nigra extract for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, Skin allergies of type I and IV. 5. Use of Salix nigra extract to increase the irritation threshold sensitive skin. 6. Use according to one or more of the preceding claims, wherein the Salix nigra extract in cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations in concentrations of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight %, in particular 0.2-2.0 wt .-% of, based on the total weight of Zube preparations.