DE10033975B4 - Gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology and its use - Google Patents

Gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology and its use Download PDF

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DE10033975B4
DE10033975B4 DE10033975A DE10033975A DE10033975B4 DE 10033975 B4 DE10033975 B4 DE 10033975B4 DE 10033975 A DE10033975 A DE 10033975A DE 10033975 A DE10033975 A DE 10033975A DE 10033975 B4 DE10033975 B4 DE 10033975B4
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cosmetic composition
weight
gel
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DE10033975A1 (en
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Helene De Clermont-Gallerande
Karin Golz-Berner
Leonhard Prof. Dr. Zastrow
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Coty BV
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
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    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations

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Abstract

Gelierte feste kosmetisches Zusammensetzung mit spezifischer Rheologie, gekennzeichnet durch
0,3-10 Gew-% eines wasserlöslichen Gelierungsmittels, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, bestehend aus Agar, Carraghenanen, Alginaten, Acrylatcopolymeren, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl, Propylenglycolalginaten oder Gemischen davon,
0,2 bis 5 Gew-% eines Phospholipids oder Phospholipidgemisches,
bis 100 Gew-% Wasser und andere kosmetische Hilfsstoffe, Trägerstoffe, Wirkstoffe und Gemische davon,
wobei das gebildete Gel pseudo-elastisch ist und für das elastische Verhalten dessen Speichermodul zwischen 6000 und 10000 Pa liegt und für das viskose Verhalten der Verlustmodul des Gels zwischen 930 und 1050 Pa liegt.Gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology, characterized by
0.3-10% by weight of a water-soluble gelling agent selected from the group consisting of agar, carraghenans, alginates, acrylate copolymers, locust bean gum, propylene glycol alginates or mixtures thereof,
0.2 to 5% by weight of a phospholipid or phospholipid mixture,
up to 100% by weight of water and other cosmetic auxiliaries, carriers, active ingredients and mixtures thereof,
the gel formed being pseudo-elastic and for the elastic behavior whose storage modulus is between 6000 and 10000 Pa and for the viscous behavior the loss modulus of the gel is between 930 and 1050 Pa.

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein kosmetisches Gel mit einem spezifischen visko-elastischen Verhalten und deren Verwendung gemäß den Ansprüchen 1 mit 7.The invention relates to a cosmetic Gel with a specific visco-elastic behavior and their Use according to claims 1 with 7th

Es sind bereits eine Vielzahl von klaren und nichtklaren Gelen beschrieben worden, wobei oft Polyacrylate oder verseifte Fettsäuren mit mehrwertigen Alkoholen und weiteren Zusatzstoffen kombiniert werden.There are already a lot of clear and unclear gels have been described, often polyacrylates or saponified fatty acids combined with polyhydric alcohols and other additives become.

Aus der US-A-5085856 ist ein Emulsionslippenstift bekannt, der ein neues Emulsionssystem aus Phospholipiden und Glycerylmono- oder -dialkanoaten oder -alkenoaten enthält.From the US-A-5085856 an emulsion lipstick is known which contains a new emulsion system of phospholipids and glyceryl mono- or dialkanoates or alkenoates.

Die EP 374332 beschreibt feste kosmetische W/O Emulsionen auf Basis von modifizierten Organopolysiloxanen, Siliconöl, einem festen Wachs und Wasser.The EP 374332 describes solid cosmetic W / O emulsions based on modified organopolysiloxanes, silicone oil, a solid wax and water.

Erfindungsaufgabe ist die Bereitstellung eines festen kosmetischen Gels mit hohem Gelierungsgrad und gegenüber bekannten festen kosmetischen Produkten andersartiger Rheologie und verbesserter Auftragbarkeit auf die Haut des Anwenders. Zugleich soll die Möglichkeit hoher Anteile von Feuchthaltemitteln gewährleistet sein.The task of the invention is the provision a solid cosmetic gel with a high degree of gelation and compared to known solid cosmetic products of different rheology and improved Can be applied to the skin of the user. At the same time, the possibility should high levels of humectants can be guaranteed.

Erfindungsgemäß bereitgestellt wird eine gelierte feste kosmetische Zusammensetzung mit spezifischer Rheologie, gekennzeichnet durch einen Gehalt an
0,3-10 Gew-% eines wasserlöslichen Gelierungsmittels oder Gelierungsmittelgemisches,
0,2 bis 10 Gew-% eines Phospholipids oder Phospholipidgemisches,
bis 100 Gew-% Wasser und andere kosmetische Hilfsstoffe, Trägerstoffe, Wirkstoffe und Gemische davon,
wobei das Gel pseudo-elastisch ist und für das elastische Verhalten der Speichermodul zwischen 6000 und 10000 Pa liegt und für das viskose Verhalten der Verlustmodul zwischen 930 und 1050 Pa liegt. Alle Prozentangaben sind auf das Gewicht der Gesamtzusammensetzung bezogen.According to the invention there is provided a gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology, characterized by a content of
0.3-10% by weight of a water-soluble gelling agent or gelling agent mixture,
0.2 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid or phospholipid mixture,
up to 100% by weight of water and other cosmetic auxiliaries, carriers, active ingredients and mixtures thereof,
the gel being pseudo-elastic and for the elastic behavior of the storage module is between 6000 and 10000 Pa and for the viscous behavior the loss module is between 930 and 1050 Pa. All percentages are based on the weight of the total composition.

Überraschenderweise hat das erfindungsgemäße Gel eine höhere Elastizität als Viskosität, was durch rheologische Oszillationsmessungen im Hinblick auf den Speichermodul (storage modulus) und den Verlustmodul floss modulus) festgestellt werden konnte. Es bestehen die Beziehungen Speichermodul G' = τ0/γ0 × cos δ und Verlustmodul G'' = τ0/γ0 × sin δ, wobei δ der Phasenverschiebungswinkel einer Scherspannungskurve τ(t) = τ0 × sin(ωt + δ) mit gesteuerter Deformation ist (s.a. A little course in rheology – Oscillation, PHYSICA® Meßtechnik GmbH Stuttgart, Germany; E V11.DOC; 28.8.1991).Surprisingly, the gel according to the invention has a higher elasticity than viscosity, which could be determined by rheological oscillation measurements with regard to the storage modulus and the loss modulus. There are the relationships storage module G '= τ 0 / γ 0 × cos δ and loss module G''= τ 0 / γ 0 × sin δ, where δ is the phase shift angle of a shear stress curve τ (t) = τ 0 × sin (ωt + δ ) with controlled deformation (see also A little course in rheology - Oscillation, PHYSICA ® Meßtechnik GmbH Stuttgart, Germany; E V11.DOC; 28.8.1991).

Die genannten visko-elastischen Eigenschaften verleihen dem Gel bei Umgebungstemperatur beim Berühren ein spezifisches "schwammartiges" Berührungsgefühl und gewisse "rückprallende" Eigenschaften, was bei kosmetischen Gelen außergewöhnlich ist. Zusätzlich ergibt sich beim Auftragen des Gels auf die Haut ein Frischegefühl, das die Anwendung für bestimmte kosmetische Bereiche besonders begünstigt, beispielsweise für Parfümgele oder Gele, die nach der Rasur oder nach einem Sonnenbad angewandt werden.The mentioned visco-elastic properties give the gel a touch at ambient temperature specific "sponge-like" touch and certain "rebounding" properties, which is the case with cosmetic Gel is exceptional. additionally when the gel is applied to the skin there is a feeling of freshness that the application for certain cosmetic areas are particularly favored, for example for perfume gels or Gels that are applied after shaving or after sunbathing.

Eine weitere besondere Eigenschaft der erfindungsgemäßen Gele ist deren große Aufnahmekapazität für Feuchthaltemittel und wasserlösliche Wirkstoffe, wodurch die Hydratisierungseigenschaften für die Haut besonders begünstigt werden. Das erfindungsgemäße Gel ist nicht klebrig und nicht fettig, läßt sich leicht auf der Haut verteilen und ergibt in seiner ölfreien Ausführungsform mit den entsprechenden Farbstoffen/Pigmenten eine nicht glänzendes, sehr natürliches Make-up.Another special feature the gels according to the invention is their big one Absorbent capacity for humectants and water soluble Active ingredients, which makes the skin hydrating properties special favored become. The gel according to the invention is not sticky and not greasy, can be easily on the skin distribute and results in its oil-free embodiment with the corresponding dyes / pigments a non-shiny, very natural Make up.

Die wasserlöslichen Gelierungsmittel sind ausgewählt unter Agar, Carraghenanen, Alginaten, Acrylatcopolymeren, Johannisbrotbaumkernmel (Carobengummi) oder Propylenglycolalginaten oder Gemischen davon. Die bevorzugten Gele sind Agar-Agar in Kombination mit Carobengummi und Acrylate Copolymers ohne Einschränkung hinsichtlich ihrer Herkunft.The water-soluble gelling agents are selected among agar, carraghenans, alginates, acrylate copolymers, locust bean gum (Carob gum) or propylene glycol alginates or mixtures thereof. The preferred gels are agar-agar in combination with carob gum and acrylate copolymers without limitation as to their origin.

Die Phospholipide sind polare Lipide. Es gibt zwei Arten von Phospholipiden: die Glycerophospholipide und die Sphingolipide. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind bei den Glycerophospholipiden Monoacylphospholipide, Diacylphospholipide, Lysophosphatidylcholin, Phosphatidylcholin, Lysophosphatidylethanolamin, Phosphatidylethanolamin, Lysophosphatidylinositol, Phosphatidylinositol, Lysophosphatidylserin, Phosphatidylserin, Lysophosphatidylglycerin, Phosphatidylglycerin, Lysophosphatidylglycerophosphat, Phosphatidylglycerophosphat, Lysodiphosphatidylglycerin, Diphosphatidylglycerin, Lyso-n-acyl-Phosphatidylethanolamin, N-acyl-Phosphatidylethanolamin, Lysophosphatidsäure und Phosphatidsäure.The phospholipids are polar lipids. There are two types of phospholipids: the glycerophospholipids and the sphingolipids. According to the invention, glycerophospholipids are preferred Monoacylphospholipids, diacylphospholipids, lysophosphatidylcholine, Phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylethanolamine, Lysophosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylinositol, lysophosphatidylserine, Phosphatidylserine, lysophosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylglycerol, Lysophosphatidylglycerophosphate, phosphatidylglycerophosphate, lysodiphosphatidylglycerin, Diphosphatidylglycerol, lyso-n-acyl-phosphatidylethanolamine, N-acyl-phosphatidylethanolamine, lysophosphatidic and phosphatidic acid.

Die einbezogenen Phospholipide können allein oder als Gemisch eingebracht werden. Die Phospholipide können auch chemisch modifiziert werden, wie z.B. hydriert oder hydroxyliert. Die Phospholipide können gesättigt oder ungesättigt und/oder entölt sein. Sie können auch im Gemisch mit anderen Lipiden eingesetzt werden, wie z.B. mit Biophilic® von Lucas-Meyer oder mit Silica wie Phospholipon 50 G® von Nattermann.The phospholipids involved can be introduced alone or as a mixture. The phospholipids can also be chemically modified, such as hydrogenated or hydroxylated. The phospholipids can be saturated or unsaturated and / or deoiled. They can also be used in a mixture with other lipids, for example with Biophilic ® from Lucas-Meyer or with silica such as Phospholipon 50 G ® from Nattermann.

Ein bevorzugtes Phospholipid-Ausgangsmaterial ist ein solches, das hohe Prozentsätze an hydriertem Sojabohnen- oder Ei-phosphatidylcholin oder Gemische davon enthält.A preferred phospholipid starting material is one that has high percentages of hydrogenated soybean or contains egg phosphatidylcholine or mixtures thereof.

Der Anteil der Phospholipide kann bevorzugt im Bereich von 1 bis 5 Gew-% liegen, vorzugsweise im Bereich von 3 bis 5 Gew-%.The proportion of phospholipids can are preferably in the range from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably in the range from 3 to 5% by weight.

Als wasserlösliche Additive können Feuchtigkeitspender wie Natrium PCA, Natriumlactat, Dikaliumglycyrrhizinat, Natriumhyaluronate, Aloe Vera-Gel und Pyridoxin-hydrochlorid genannt werden. Die als Feuchthaltemittel (humectants) verwendeten Additive sind Polyole wie Butylenglycol, Propylenglycol oder Glycerin.Moisturizers can be used as water-soluble additives such as sodium PCA, sodium lactate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, Aloe vera gel and pyridoxine hydrochloride can be called. As Additives used as humectants are polyols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol or glycerin.

Der Anteil der Feuchthaltemittel kann im Bereich von 0,1 bis 12 Gew-% liegen, vorzugsweise im Bereich von 5 bis 12 Gew-%.The percentage of humectants can be in the range from 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably in the range from 5 to 12% by weight.

Die Pulver können unter beliebigen verfügbaren kosmetischen Pulvern ausgewählt werden, auch unter Pigmenten, wie mineralischen Pigmenten, organischen Pigmenten, Bismuth oxichlorid, Glimmer-Titanium-Komplexen und Titaniumdioxid (Rutil oder anderen Formen), Talkum, Glimmer, Silica, Nylon, Methylsesquioxan, PMMA, modifizierte Stärke, Kaolin, gemäß WO 96/17588 modifizierter Kaolin und anderen.The powders can be found under any cosmetic available Powders selected are, even among pigments, such as mineral pigments, organic Pigments, bismuth oxychloride, mica-titanium complexes and titanium dioxide (Rutile or other forms), talc, mica, silica, nylon, methyl sesquioxane, PMMA, modified starch, Kaolin, according to WO 96/17588 modified kaolin and others.

Der Anteil der Pulver kann im Bereich von 1 bis 20 Gew-% liegen.The proportion of powder can be in the range from 1 to 20% by weight.

Das mikrofeine Titaniumdioxid oder Zinkoxid mit Eigenschaften von physikalischen UV-Filter kann auch als wirksamer Sonnenschutzbestandteile eingesetzt werden.The microfine titanium dioxide or Zinc oxide with properties of physical UV filters can also can be used as effective sun protection components.

Für den Fall, daß eine Ölphase eingebracht wird , was nicht bevorzugt ist, kann diese öle, Ester, Wachse und Butter umfassen sowie auch Wirkstoffe, wie chemische Sonnenfilter oder Parfümöle. Pflanzliche öle können z.B. sein Aprikosenöl, Man delöl, Jojobaöl, Calendulaöl, Babassuöl. Auch von tierischen Rohstoffen abgeleitete Öle können eingesetzt werden, wie Lanolin oder Lanolinöl.For the case that an oil phase is introduced What is not preferred can be oils, esters, waxes and butter include as well as active ingredients such as chemical sun filters or Perfume oils. Vegetable oils can e.g. his apricot oil, Man delöl, jojoba oil, calendula, Babassu. Oils derived from animal raw materials can also be used, such as Lanolin or lanolin oil.

Ester sind vorzugsweise cyclische Ester, wie C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate und hoch-verzweigte Moleküle wie Dipentaerythityl Hexahydroxystearate/Stearate/Rosinate und Cholesteryl/ Behenyl/-Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate.Esters are preferably cyclic Esters such as C12-15 alkyl benzoates and highly branched molecules such as dipentaerythityl Hexahydroxystearate / Stearate / Rosinate and Cholesteryl / Behenyl / -Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate.

Wachse können sein Bienenwachs, Candelillawachs, Lanolinwachs, Trilaurinwachs. Harze wie PVP/Eicosene copolymer können ebenfalls eingearbeitet werden.Waxes can be beeswax, candelilla wax, Lanolin wax, trilaurin wax. Resins such as PVP / Eicosene copolymer can also be incorporated.

Im Falle der Einführung von 0,1 bis 20 Gew-% einer Ölphase zu verwendende oberflächenaktive Mittel sind beispielsweise Polysorbate 80 und Sorbitan Sesquioleate.In the case of introduction from 0.1 to 20% by weight an oil phase surface-active to be used Agents are, for example, Polysorbate 80 and Sorbitan Sesquioleate.

Das erfindungsgemäße Gel kann leicht in Formen gegossen und ist dank seiner besonderen rheologischen Eigenschaften angenehm und bequem in der Handhabung. Ein Brechen des Gels auch in dünner Stiftform findet kaum statt.The gel of the invention can be easily molded poured and is thanks to its special rheological properties pleasant and convenient to use. A break of the gel too in thinner Pen shape hardly takes place.

Besondere Anwendungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung sind Make-up Produkte wie gegossene Grundierungen (foundations), Abdeckungen, mit dem Pinsel aufzutragende Formulierungen (blushers), Lidschatten, Rompakt-Sonnenschutzprodukte mit Lichtschutzfaktor, kompakte Parfümgele, Hautschutzprodukte (skin care), After-sun Produkte, After-shave Produkte.Special forms of application of the composition according to the invention are make-up products such as foundations, Covers, formulations to be applied with a brush (blushers), Eyeshadow, Rompakt sun protection products with sun protection factor, compact perfume gels, Skin protection products, after-sun products, after-shave Products.

Die Erfindung soll nachstehend durch Beispiele näher erläutert werden. Alle Angaben erfolgen in Gewichtsprozent, sofern nichts anderes angegeben ist. Die Verarbeitung erfolgt ähnlich wie bei bekannten Formulierungen dieser Art.The invention is intended below Examples closer explained become. All information is given in percent by weight, if nothing other is indicated. The processing is similar to known formulations this kind.

Beispiel 1 Make-up – Foundation Wasser bis 100% Butandiol 15 Nylon-12 5 Agar 0,4 Locust bean gum (Carobengummi) 0,2 Xanthangummi 0,3 Hydrogenated Lecithin 3,5 Pigmente (Eisenoxide und TiO2) 7 Polacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth -7 3 Hyaluronsäure 0,3 Schutzmittel q.s. Parfüm q.s. Example 1 Make-up - Foundation water until 100% butanediol 15 Nylon-12 5 agar 0.4 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.2 xanthan gum 0.3 Hydrogenated lecithin 3.5 Pigments (iron oxides and TiO 2 ) 7 Polacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth -7 3 hyaluronic acid 0.3 preservative qs Perfume qs

Für das Produkt von Beispiel 1 wurde eine Scherspannungskurve mit gesteuerter Deformation auf übliche Weise aufgestellt. Der Speichermodul G' = τ0/γ0 × cos δ und Verlustmodul G'' = τ0/γ0 × sin δ wurden daraus errechnet, wobei 6 der Phasenverschiebungswinkel der Scherspannungskurve τ(t) = τ0 × sin(ωt + δ) mit gesteuerter Deformation ist, τ ist die Schubspannung, und γ ist die Schergeschwindigkeit.
Speichermodul: 7200 Pa
Verlustmodul: 980 Pa.A shear stress curve with controlled deformation was established in the usual way for the product of Example 1. The storage module G '= τ 0 / γ 0 × cos δ and loss modulus G''= τ 0 / γ 0 × sin δ were calculated from it, whereby 6 is the phase shift angle of the shear stress curve τ (t) = τ 0 × sin (ωt + δ ) with controlled deformation, τ is the shear stress, and γ is the shear rate.
Memory module: 7200 Pa
Loss modulus: 980 Pa.

Beispiel 2 Make-up-Blusher Wasser bis 100% Glycerin 10 PMMA 10 Agar 1,2 Locust bean gum (Carobengummi) 0,2 Hydrogenated Lecithin 1 Pigmente (organische Pigmente und TiO2) 5 Acrylate copolymers 1 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 1,6 Polysorbate 80 1 Triaurin 2 PVP/Eicosene copolymer 2 Dimethicone 1 Schutzmittel q.s. Parfüm q.s.
Speichermodul: 8600 Pa; Verlustmodul: 960 Pa. Example 2 Make-up blusher water until 100% glycerin 10 PMMA 10 agar 1.2 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.2 Hydrogenated lecithin 1 Pigments (organic pigments and TiO 2 ) 5 Acrylate copolymers 1 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.6 Polysorbate 80 1 Triaurin 2 PVP / Eicosene copolymer 2 Dimethicone 1 preservative qs Perfume qs
Memory module: 8600 Pa; Loss modulus: 960 Pa.

Beispiel 3 Sonnenschutz Kompaktgesichtscreme Wasser bis 100% Propylenglycol 10 Agar 1,2 Hydrogenated Lecithin 4 Ultrafeines TiO2 10 Acrylate copolymers 3 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 1,5 Polysorbate 80 1 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 2 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate 4 Lecithin 1,0 Pflanzliches Ö1 5 Schutzmittel q.s. Parfüm q.s.
Speichermodul: 8200 Pa; Verlustmodul: 940 Pa.Example 3 Sun protection compact face cream water until 100% propylene glycol 10 agar 1.2 Hydrogenated lecithin 4 Ultra-fine TiO 2 10 Acrylate copolymers 3 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 2 Cholesteryl / Behenyl / Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate 4 lecithin 1.0 Vegetable oil 5 preservative qs Perfume qs
Memory module: 8200 Pa; Loss modulus: 940 Pa.

Beispiel 4 Parfümgel Wasser bis 100% Propylenglycol 1,2 Agar 1,2 Locust bean gum (Carobengummi) 0,4 Silica 3 Hydrogenated Lecithin 2 Acrylate copolymers 3 Parfüm 6 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4 Candelillawachs 2 Glimmer-Titan (Perlpigment) 2 Schutzmittel q.s.
Speichermodul: 8500 Pa; Verlustmodul : 960 Pa.Example 4 Perfume Gel water until 100% propylene glycol 1.2 agar 1.2 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.4 silica 3 Hydrogenated lecithin 2 Acrylate copolymers 3 Perfume 6 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 4 candelilla 2 Mica titanium (pearl pigment) 2 preservative qs
Memory module: 8500 Pa; Loss modulus: 960 Pa.

Beispiel 5 After-shave compact Wasser bis 100% Butylenglycol 6 Agar 0,7 Locust bean gum.(Carobengummi) 0,2 Allantoin 0,5 Natriumlactat 2 Nylon 3 Hydrogenated Lecithin 1 Acrylate copolymers 1 Locust bean gum (Carobengummi) 0,3 Carboxymethylcellullose 0,3 Schutzmittel q.s. Parfüm q.s
Speichermodul: 7600 Pa; Verlustmodul: 990 Pa.Example 5 After-shave compact water until 100% butylene 6 agar 0.7 Locust bean gum. (Carob gum) 0.2 allantoin 0.5 sodium lactate 2 nylon 3 Hydrogenated lecithin 1 Acrylate copolymers 1 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.3 carboxymethylcellulose 0.3 preservative qs Perfume qs
Memory module: 7600 Pa; Loss modulus: 990 Pa.

Beispiel 6 After-sun compact Wasser bis 100% Glycerin 10 Dragonsatol 2 Natriumlacat 2 Locust bean gum (Carobengumi) 0,2 Agar 0,5 Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 3 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 1,5 Polysorbate 80 1 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2 Lecithin 2 PVP/Eicosene copolymer 2 Schutzmittel q.s. Parfüm q.s.
Speichermodul: 8000 Pa; Verlustmodul: 940 Pa.Example 6 After-sun compact water until 100% glycerin 10 Dragonsatol 2 Natriumlacat 2 Locust bean gum (Carobengumi) 0.2 agar 0.5 Polyacrylamides & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 3 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 2 lecithin 2 PVP / Eicosene copolymer 2 preservative qs Perfume qs
Memory module: 8000 Pa; Loss modulus: 940 Pa.

Claims (7)

Gelierte feste kosmetisches Zusammensetzung mit spezifischer Rheologie, gekennzeichnet durch 0,3-10 Gew-% eines wasserlöslichen Gelierungsmittels, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, bestehend aus Agar, Carraghenanen, Alginaten, Acrylatcopolymeren, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl, Propylenglycolalginaten oder Gemischen davon, 0,2 bis 5 Gew-% eines Phospholipids oder Phospholipidgemisches, bis 100 Gew-% Wasser und andere kosmetische Hilfsstoffe, Trägerstoffe, Wirkstoffe und Gemische davon, wobei das gebildete Gel pseudo-elastisch ist und für das elastische Verhalten dessen Speichermodul zwischen 6000 und 10000 Pa liegt und für das viskose Verhalten der Verlustmodul des Gels zwischen 930 und 1050 Pa liegt.Gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology, characterized by 0.3-10% by weight of a water-soluble gelling agent selected from the group consisting of agar, carraghenans, alginates, acrylate copolymers, locust bean gum, propylene glycol alginates or mixtures thereof, 0.2 to 5% by weight of a phospholipid or phospholipid mixture, up to 100% by weight of water and other cosmetic auxiliaries, carriers, active substances and mixtures thereof, the gel formed being pseudo-elastic and its storage module between 6,000 and 10,000 for the elastic behavior Pa and for the viscous behavior the loss modulus of the gel is between 930 and 1050 Pa. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie als Phospholipide Glycerophospholipide enthält, insbesondere Lysophosphatidylcholin, Phosphatidylcholin und Gemische davon enthält.Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized characterized that they contains glycerophospholipids as phospholipids, in particular lysophosphatidylcholine, Contains phosphatidylcholine and mixtures thereof. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie als Phospholipide hydriertes Sojabohnen- oder Ei-Phosphatidylcholin oder ein Gemisch davon enthält.Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized characterized that they as phospholipids hydrogenated soybean or egg phosphatidylcholine or a Mixture of these contains. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Anteil der Phospholipide im Bereich von 1 bis 5 Gew-% liegt, insbesondere im Bereich von 3 bis 5 Gew-%.Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that the The proportion of phospholipids is in the range from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular in the range of 3 to 5% by weight. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Anteil der Feuchthaltemittel in dem Gel im Bereich von 0,1 bis 12 Gew% liegt.Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that the Proportion of humectants in the gel in the range 0.1 to 12 % Lies. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Anteil der Feuchthaltemittel in dem Gel im Bereich von 5 bis 12 Gew% liegt.Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized characterized in that the Proportion of humectants in the gel in the range of 5 to 12 % Lies. Verwendung einer genierten festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1 in Form eines Make-up Produktes, einer Abdeckung, eines Parfümgels oder eines stiftartigen After-sun- oder After-shave-Produktes.Use of an embarrassed solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 in the form of a make-up product, a cover, of a perfume gel or a pen-like after-sun or after-shave product.
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JP4781464B2 (en) * 2009-12-21 2011-09-28 株式会社 資生堂 Sheet cosmetic
KR101784028B1 (en) * 2010-03-12 2017-10-10 닛신 오일리오그룹 가부시키가이샤 Composition for external use on skin, cosmetic, and cleaning agent
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CN106102709A (en) * 2014-03-28 2016-11-09 株式会社高丝 Cosmetics

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