DE19518845A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

The object of the invention comprises the use of phytic acid or its salts for the prevention and treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or hair and also combinations containing one or more active agents selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more agents selected from the chelating agent group.

Description

The invention relates to active ingredients and cosmetic or dermatological Preparations, in particular topical preparations, which are the consequential damages oxidizing substances or an acute or chronic Light exposure, in particular an ultraviolet light exposure alleviate, and the before the consequential damage of oxidizing substances or an acute or Protect chronic light-UV exposure, thus have a preventive effect.

The damaging effects of sunlight are well described. there cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, acute when exceeding a minimum dose Erythema, a simple sunburn. As a maximum of Erythemal efficacy is given the narrower range around 308 nm.

In addition to this acute damage, sunlight, especially in the UVA Range from 320 nm to 400 nm, with repeated, ie chronic exposure Cumulative damaging effect and damage to the elastic and cause collagen fibers of the skin. This process is called  Photo aging of the skin is called. He overlays and accelerates the natural aging process of the skin and causes its increasing Slackness and wrinkles. In addition belong the visible ones Vascular dilation (couperosis), local malignant pigmentation (eg. Age spots), the increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking) to the symptom complex of the photo-aged, ie chronic UVA-exposed skin. All these phenomena are detailed in the Handbook of Nonprescription Drugs, 7th Ed. Chapter 26, pp: 499-511 (Am. Pharmaceutical Association, Washington, D.C., 1982).

UVA radiation is also the cause of numerous phototoxic and photo allergic reactions. Furthermore, it can assess the injurious influence of UVB Amplify radiation.

Ultimately, a large part of the causes for the previously listed macroscopic phenomena of photoaging in dysfunction of the Skin cells, whose enzyme-protein-catalyzed, biochemical Activity (skin metabolism) by the photoaging process significantly is restricted. On the other hand, the damage caused by chronic UV Exposure scaffold and structural proteins (eg keratins, microfilaments) in and outside the cells affected, for example, the mechanical Properties of the cell structure make up skin. The UV Radiation lead to photochemical reactions, the photochemical Reaction products intervene in all levels of skin metabolism.

A cause of endogenous and accelerated by external influences Aging process is an increase in the content of ketoproteins in the horny layer. Ketoproteins are formed by an oxidative modification of Side groups of amino acid residues of the protein. In these side chains becomes a carbonyl group with the participation of strong oxidizing agents (eg. H₂O₂) introduced. Ketoproteine but also serve as a marker for the UV or Oxygen radical-induced damage to proteins of the epidermis.  

Also, human hair is the damaging effects of UV light exposed and weathered in the course of its aging u. a. by oxidative Splitting of stabilizing disulfide bridges. Continue to be at a Variety of hair dyeing processes high concentrations Hydrogen peroxide used, which may be a side effect Damage to the hair substance can cause.

Predominantly, the photochemical reaction products are radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Also undefined radical photoproducts that are created in the skin and hair itself, can due to their high reactivity uncontrolled subsequent reactions initiate. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical, excited and very reactive state of the oxygen molecule can under UV irradiation occur, as are short-lived epoxides and many others.

Furthermore, UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. So that's it Risk that also ionic species arise on UV exposure, which then in turn z. B. can intervene oxidatively in biochemical processes of the skin.

To prevent these reactions and protect the skin from UV To ensure radiation, numerous compounds in topical Preparations used that absorb the UVB and / or UVA radiation, ie filter.

Typical UVB filters are derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, 4- Aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and of 2-phenylbenzimidazole. To protect the skin from UVA radiation come mostly certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are used.

However, UV filters pose the following problems for the consumer: you develop only a protective, but no therapeutic effect. To ensure optimum protection, the filter substances must Cover the skin permanently with a uniform and evenly distributed film.  

However, these conditions are difficult to fulfill, as the skin surface is traversed by fine lines and the user is often in sunlight moves in the water or sweats. In addition, UV filters can pose a certain risk of irritation to mucous membranes and occasionally Cause burning sensation on sensitive parts of the skin (stinging potential).

As a further, purely physical protection, topical preparations UV- mixed with reflective or UV-scattering substances. Substances like Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide fulfill this task, give the preparations but an unattractive, whitish color. Besides, it does not always work just to fix these substances on the skin surface sufficiently.

To prevent the photochemical reactions, can be cosmetic or dermatological preparations also antioxidants and / or Radical scavengers are added. Antioxidants are substances which Oxidation processes in the surrounding medium (skin, hair or Product). Antioxidants, which are used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceutics are, for example, α-tocopherol, in particular in the form of α-tocopherol acetate, butyl hydroxyanisole and Butylhydroxytoluene.

U.S. Patent Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, as well as numerous others Documents have been suggested to contain vitamin E, a substance known antioxidative, that is oxygen radical neutralizing effect in Use sunscreen formulations, but still remains the scored Effect behind the hoped-for back.

An object of the present invention was to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art to eliminate the technology. In particular, an active substance or Preparations containing this active ingredient, are provided at their use damages the skin and / or hair oxidative influence can be reduced or reduced, for. B. by the Ketoproteinbildung is reduced.  

Another object of the present invention was, in particular To provide cosmetic preparations, which is the aging of the hair or before or after treatment of the hair with bleaches or Hair dye preparations, even those with a high content of strong Oxidizing agents, eg. As hydrogen peroxide, whose damaging Counteract the oxidation effect.

These objects are achieved according to the present invention.

The invention relates to the use of phytic acid or its Salts for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative Effects on the skin or hair.

The invention also relates to the use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid or theirs Salts for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative Effects on the skin or hair.

Preference is given to topical preparations.

Phytic acid (myo-inositol hexaphosphate, international nickname: Fytinsäure) is known and described in the literature ("Römpp Chemie Lexikon", 9. Edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, DE, p. 3431 (1991) and "The Merck Index, "11th Edition, Merck & Co., Inc., Rahway, USA, p. 1172 (1989).

The invention also relates to active ingredient combinations containing one Active substance or several active substances selected from the group of phytic acid and their salts in combination with one or more active ingredients Active ingredients selected from the group of chelating agents.

Preferred chelating agents are alpha-hydroxy fatty acids and their salts or Deferoxamine and its acid addition salts.

In the following, the term "active ingredients" also extends to the Drug combinations and preparations with it.  

In addition, cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized by a content of a drug combination containing one or more active substances selected from the group of Phytic acid and its salts in combination with an active substance or several active substances selected from the group of chelating agents, Subject of the invention.

Preference is given to topical preparations.

Furthermore, combinations which have one or more alpha- Hydroxyfatty acids as chelating agents and / or deferoxamine.

The invention also provides the use of Active ingredient combinations containing one or more active substances, selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more active substances selected from the group the chelating agent, for the prophylaxis and treatment of harmful oxidative effects on the skin or hair.

In addition, the use of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations characterized by a content of one Combination of active substances containing one or more active substances, selected from the group of phytic acid and its salts in combination with one or more active substances selected from the group the chelating agent, for the prophylaxis and treatment of harmful oxidative effects on the skin or the hair Invention.

Mixtures of alpha-hydroxy fatty acids may be of two, but several a greater number of connections are formed and these Contain compounds in different amounts by weight. So can out Fractions derived from natural sources are larger due to  Homologs or structural isomers, synthesized acids on the other hand, each consist of one connection.

The alpha-hydroxy fatty acids according to the invention can be straight-chain or be branched. Preference is given to the saturated, aliphatic alpha- Hydroxy fatty acids.

Preferred alpha-hydroxy fatty acids according to the invention contain 8 to 20 Carbon atoms, but especially 14 to 18 carbon atoms, especially preferably 16 carbon atoms. Also advantageous are mixtures of such Areas of fatty acids.

Particularly preferred are the following alpha-hydroxy fatty acids and their salts, in particular in the D form:
alpha-hydroxy-hexadecanoic acid
(Alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid).

In accordance with the invention, alpha wool derived from wool wax may also be used. Hydroxy fatty acids are used, for. B. according to known Isolation method available alpha-hydroxy fatty acid mixtures (DE-A-42 04 321) which are obtained from Wwollwachssäuregemischen. They fall preferably as a D-enantiomer mixture. Also after known Processes available individual compounds are preferred.

The alpha-hydroxy fatty acids according to the invention are known or according to available. Racemates obtained in the synthesis split into the isomers in conventional methods.

Preferred salts of the active compounds according to the invention are compatible salts, in particular water-soluble salts, eg. As the sodium or potassium salts. Preferably, the active compounds of the invention are in the acid form used.  

α-hydroxy fatty acids are natural constituents of the human Horn layer existing lipid membranes. You are amid to that Sphingosine bound to ceramides 4,5 and 6I and 6II, respectively, by a Enzyme present in the horny layer, the ceramidase, is released. They have no UV-absorbing properties and are therefore not the Attributable to filter substances.

As a particularly advantageous α-hydroxy fatty acid in the sense of the present Invention is considered the α-hydroxypalmitic acid. The α- Hydroxypalmitic acid is a natural component of wool's wax acids Sheep, which at the same time a source of this ingredient for cosmetic or dermatological preparations is designated.

Although the published patent application DE-A-42 04 321 describes the deodorizing Characteristics, the ability to serve as a preservative assistant or ion tie. However, it was not foreseeable for the skilled person or the scripture remove that the active ingredient group of the invention in the combinations would unfold the properties of the invention.

Deferoxamine is known from the literature and the free international Abbreviation for desferrioxamine or else 30-amino-3,14,25-trihydroxy- 3,9,14,20,25-pentaazatriacontane-2,10,13,21,24-pentaone ("Römpp Chemie Lexikon ", 9th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, p. 876 (1991) and" The Merck Index, "11th Edition, Merck & Co., Inc., Rahway, USA, p. 449 (1989).

Preferred acid addition salts are compatible salts, in particular water-soluble salts, e.g. As the hydrochloride.

Under the term "oxidative action" is both the effect of to understand oxidizing substances as well as the oxidative effect of radiation, namely light, in particular UV light and the resulting caused by-products.  

By "injurious" is meant those actions that are undesirable Cause changes in the skin or hair, eg. As the aging, or Ketoproteinbildung but z. B. not the desired bleaching effect of Hair bleaches or z. B. the desired effect of hair colors.

The active compounds and preparations according to the invention are characterized from that they the consequential damage oxidizing substances or a acute or chronic exposure to light, especially one Exposure to ultraviolet light, and oxidizing before consequential damage active substances or an acute or chronic light exposure or UV exposure, thus have a preventive effect.

Surprisingly, it was also found that the inventive Active ingredients and preparations the formation of ketoproteins in the skin reduce and reduce the skin lesions or skin damage associated with the Skin aging, in particular endogenous aging of the skin and the Photo aging of the skin may occur, reduce or prevent. They work here preventive, but they can also remedy damage already incurred.

Particularly preferred is the use of the active compounds according to the invention and preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin lesions and skin damage of skin aging, especially endogenous Skin aging and photoaging of the skin and ketoprotein formation.

In photoaging, the active compounds of the invention and Preparations are used in UVA and / or UVB irradiation.

Even the hair is subject to a constant aging process, the mainly based on oxidative effects.

If human hair is to be dyed permanently, come in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing into consideration. When oxidative Hair dyeing is the formation of the Farbstoffchromophoren by reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, more rarely diamines) and bases  (Mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are thereby usually used.

Usually it is assumed that in addition to the coloring effect also a bleaching action by the hydrogen peroxide takes place. In oxidatively colored Human hair, similar to bleached hair, is microscopic Holes at the sites where melanin granules were present, detectable.

It is not excluded that the oxidizing agent does not hydrogen peroxide react only with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and This may cause damage to the hair under certain circumstances.

Also for bleaching hair and shaping the hair become oxidative effective means used, which can cause damage.

The invention also relates in particular to the use of active compounds and preparations for prophylaxis and Treatment of hair damage by hair cosmetics, eg. Bleach, Colorants and forming agents.

It was therefore unforeseeable for the skilled person that the Active ingredients or preparations according to the invention, containing them

• - have a better reducing effect on the formation of radicals
• Better the binding of harmful photoproducts to lipids, DNA and Prevent proteins
• - Better reduce the formation of ketoproteins in the skin
• - work better against aging skin
• - Better protect the skin against photoreactions
• - better put on the skin

as the active ingredients, drug combinations and preparations of the prior Technology.  

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention or formulations may be composed as usual and for Treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and to serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

They contain z. B. 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, but especially from 0.1 wt .-% to 3 wt .-%, each based on the Total weight of the preparations of phytic acid or its salts.

The proportion of the active compound combinations according to the invention in the Preparations is z. B. 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, but especially 0.1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

In the combination, the weight ratio of the phytic acid or their Salts to that of the chelating agent advantageously 20: 1 to 1: 20, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably about 2: 1 to 1: 2.

Preparations for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of the skin particularly preferred.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatolo according to the invention gical preparations in the usual way for cosmetics on the skin and / or the hair applied in sufficient quantity. Preparations for Treatment and care of the skin are particularly preferred.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used in different forms exist. So they can z. B. a solution, a anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, one multiple emulsions, for example, the type of water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or even an aerosol. It is also beneficial to present the active compounds of the invention in encapsulated form, for. In Collagen matrices and other common encapsulating materials, e.g. B. as Cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomal  encapsulated. In particular wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have been described, have turned out to be favorable.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the active compounds according to the invention in aqueous systems or Add surfactant preparations for cleansing the skin and hair.

As an advantageous embodiment of the present invention is therefore also the Use of active substances according to the invention for the protection of the skin and / or the hair viewed from oxidative damage, in particular this Ver Use of the active compounds according to the invention in shampoos and washing formulations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as those commonly used in such Preparations are used, for. B. preservatives, bactericides, Perfumes, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickener, surface-active Substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as Alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic Solvents or silicone derivatives.

In particular, the active compounds according to the invention for the effects of the invention are also combined with antioxidants. Such combinations are the subject of the invention as well as the Uses as already stated for the active ingredients.

According to the invention as favorable antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of Amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives,  Imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, Carotenes (eg, α-carotene, (3-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, Chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg. Dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and theirs Derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and Derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof Butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and their Derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and its derivatives Derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO₄) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenomethionine), Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the According to the invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said active substances.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more Compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives, the antioxidant (s) is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of  0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the one or more antioxidants are advantageous, their respective Concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose.

Emulsions of the invention are advantageous and contain z. B. the ge called fats, oils, waxes and other fats, as well as water and a Emulsifier as commonly used for such a type of formulation is used.

The lipid phase can be chosen advantageously from the following Group of substances:

• - natural, synthetic and / or partial synthetic oils, such as triglycerides capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural synthetic and / or Partially synthetic fatty bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids Low C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or Glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• Silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, Diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof;
• - saturated compounds such as hydrocarbons natural or of synthetic origin (vaseline, squalane)

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention contains optionally advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols of low carbon number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether,  Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, Glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be advantageously chosen from the group silicon dioxide, Aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the Group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of Carbopols, for example Carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also the types ETD (Easy-to-disperse) 2001, 2020, 2050, each individually or in any combination with each other.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another Be part of it.

Emulsions of the invention are advantageous and contain z. B. the fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is customary for such a type of formulation is used.

Gels according to the invention usually contain lower C-number alcohols, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or a the above-mentioned oil in the presence of a thickening agent which, in the case of oily Alcoholic gels preferably silica or an aluminum silicate, at aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels preferably a polyacrylate is.

As a propellant for inventive sprayable from aerosol containers Preparations are the usual known volatile, liquefied Propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable, which can be used alone or in mixture with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, wherein the  Total amount of filter substances z. From 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic Preparations that provide the hair or the skin before the protect entire area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also as Sunscreen for the hair or skin serve.

Contain the emulsions of the invention UVB filter substances can these are oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• - 3-Benzylidencampher derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylben cylids) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzo (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, Salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester,
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzal di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, -2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'- hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or their triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;  
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3- bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme ethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The list of mentioned UVB filters, in combination with the Agents of the invention can be used, should itself understandably not be limiting.

The invention is also the use of active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as Antioxidant or the use of the active compounds according to the invention at least one UVB filter in a cosmetic or dermatological Preparation.

It may also be advantageous to use active compounds according to the invention with UVA filters to combine. For example, those are suitable, the usual contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are they are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or Preparations containing these combinations are the subject of Invention. It may be the quantities used for the UVB combination be used.

The invention also provides the use of a combination of active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter or the Use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention at least one UVA filter in a cosmetic or dermatological Preparation.

The invention also provides the use of a combination of active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter or the use of a combination of  active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter in a cosmetic or dermatological Preparation.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content Active ingredients according to the invention may also contain inorganic pigments commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV Rays are used. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, Iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures and modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Particular preference is given to pigments based on Titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations, which contain this combination are the subject of the invention. It can used the amounts mentioned for the above combinations become.

For cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the protection of Hair from UV rays according to the invention is, for example, to Shampooing preparations, preparations for rinsing the hair before or after shampooing, before or after perming, before or After the coloring or decolorization of the hair can be applied to Preparations for blow drying or inserting hair, Preparations for Dye or discolour to a hairdressing and treatment lotion, a Hair lacquer or permanent waving agent.

The combinations with UV filters and UV protectors have the for the Agents described effects and can be used in the same way become.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations contain active ingredients and adjuvants as commonly used for this type of preparation Hair care and hair treatment are used. Serve as auxiliaries  Preservatives, surface active substances, substances for Preventing foaming, thickening agents, emulsifiers, fats, oils, Waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or Pigments whose function is the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation to dye itself, Elektroyte, substances against the greasing of the hair.

Electrolytes in the sense of the present invention are water-soluble Alkali, ammonium, alkaline earth (including magnesium) and Zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts to be understood, it must be ensured that these salts by Pharmaceutical or cosmetic harmlessness.

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group chlorides, sulphates and hydrogen sulphates, phosphates, Hydrogen phosphates and the linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well the carbonates and bicarbonates.

Cosmetic preparations containing a skin cleanser or Shampoo, preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant, or also mixtures of such substances, according to the invention Drug combinations in an aqueous medium and aids, as they Usually used for this. The surface-active substance or The mixtures of these substances can be in a concentration between 1 wt .-% and 50 wt .-% in the shampoo.

Are the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a Lotion before that rinsed out and z. B. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after the permanent wave treatment is applied, so it is z. B. aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, optionally contain surface-active substances whose concentration is between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.  

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also Aerosols with the commonly used tools represent.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular, a lotion for inserting the hair, a lotion when blown hair is used, a hairdressing and treatment lotion, poses in the generally an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as inventive Wirkstoffkombinatonen in effective concentration. The amount of used polymers is z. B. between 0.1 and 10 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 3 wt .-%.

Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of hair, which Contain active compounds according to the invention may be present as emulsions, the of non-ionic or ionic type. Non-ionic emulsions contain besides water oils or fatty alcohols, for example, too polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, or mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions contain optionally cationic surface-active substances.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and Care of hair as gels present, in addition to an effective content of Active compound combinations according to the invention and usually used solvents, preferably water, still organic Thickener, z. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, Cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such For example, bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and Polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, contained.  

Preferably, the amount of the active compounds according to the invention is in one means intended for the hair 0.05 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 Wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention or for the aqueous Cleaning certain low-water or anhydrous Detergent concentrates may be anionic, nonionic and / or contain amphoteric surfactants, for example

• - conventional soaps, z. B. fatty acid salts of sodium
• - Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates
• - Sulfoacetates
• - sulfobetaines
• - sarcosinates
• - amidosulfobetaines
• - sulfosuccinates
• - sulfosuccinic monoesters
• - Alkyl ether carboxylates
• - Protein-fatty acid condensates
• - alkyl betaines and amidobetaines
• - fatty acid alkanolamides
• - Polyglycol ether derivatives

Cosmetic preparations containing cosmetic cleansing preparations for Skin may be present in liquid or solid form. They contain preferably at least in addition to active compound combinations according to the invention an anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and Aids, as they are usually used for it. The surfactant may be in a concentration between 1 and 94 Wt .-% in the cleaning preparations, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations that are a shampoo, contain in addition to an effective content of active compounds according to the invention preferably at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric  surfactant or mixtures thereof, optionally one According to the invention electrolytes and auxiliaries, as they usually do be used. The surfactant may be in a Concentration between 1 wt .-% and 94 wt .-% in the Shampooning present.

The compositions of the invention contain except the aforementioned surfactants water and optionally those in cosmetics customary additives, for example perfume, thickener, dyes, Deodorants, antimicrobials, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing agents and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, Active ingredients and the like.

The present invention also includes a cosmetic or dermatological procedure for the protection of the skin and the hair against oxidati ven or photooxidative processes, which is characterized in that a cosmetic which is an effective concentration of contains the active ingredient combinations according to the invention, in sufficient quantity Apply the skin or hair.

The active compounds according to the invention can be used individually or as a mixture of several Active ingredients are used and also individually or as a mixture in the Preparations should be included.

It has proved to be advantageous, the pH of the inventive Preparations z. B. in the range of 4 to 9, but especially in the Range pH5 to pH7.

The invention also provides the process for the preparation of cosmetic agent according to the invention, which is characterized in that in a manner known per se, active compounds according to the invention in cosmetic and dermatological formulations. This can be z. B. by stirring or emulsifying happen.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without restricting it. All quantities, percentages and percentages  are, unless otherwise stated, on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixture based. The preparation of the preparations is carried out in a known per se Wise.

example 1 W / O cream Wt .-% paraffin oil 10.00 petrolatum 4.00 Wool alcohol 1.00 PEG-7 Hydrogenated castor oil 3.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 phytic acid 1.0 glycerin 2.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 2 W / O lotion Wt .-% paraffin oil 20.00 petrolatum 4.00 Glucosesesqiisostearat 2.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 phytic acid 1.5 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 Vitamin C palmitate 0.20 glycerin 5.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 3 O / W lotion Wt .-% paraffin oil 8.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 petrolatum 4.00 cetearyl 2.00 PEG-40 castor oil 0.50 sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50 Sodium carbomer 0.40 phytic acid 0.7 glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20 octyl 5.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 4 O / W cream Wt .-% paraffin oil 7.00 avocado oil 4.00 glyceryl 2.00 sodium 1.00 phytic acid 0.8 sodium phytate 1.00 Titanium dioxide 1.00 sodium lactate 3.00 glycerin 3.00   Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 5 Lip Balm Wt .-% Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00 ceresin 8.00 beeswax 4.00 carnauba 2.00 petrolatum 40,00 phytic acid 2.0 β-carotene 0.10 Paraffin oil, pigments and dyes ad 100.00

Example 6 Liposome-containing gel Wt .-% lecithin 6.00 shea butter 3.00 phytic acid 2.0 Vitamin A palmitate 0.20 biotin 0.08 sodium citrate 0.50 glycine 0.20 urea 0.20 Sodium PCA 0.50 Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00 Xanthan gum 1.40 sorbitol 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 7 conditioner Wt .-% paraffin oil 3.00 almond oil 3.00 Cetostearylalcohol 5.00 PEG-40 castor oil 1.00 Natriumcetearylsulfate 0.50 sorbitol 5.00 glycerin 5.00 phytic acid 1.3 dilaurythiodipropionate 0.05 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 8 massage cream Wt .-% stearyl 2.00 petrolatum 4.00 dimethicone 2.00 isopropyl palmitate 6.00 cetearyl 4.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 phytic acid 0.7 glycerin 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 9 W / O cream Wt .-% Paraffin oil | 10.00 petrolatum 4.00 Wool alcohol 1.00% PEG-7 Hydrogenated castor oil 3.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 phytic acid 0.5 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.5 glycerin 2.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 10 W / O lotion Wt .-% paraffin oil 20.00 petrolatum 4.00 Glucosesesqiisostearat 2.00 aluminum stearate 0.40 phytic acid 1.0 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.3 Vitamin E acetate 2.00 Vitamin C palmitate 0.20 glycerin 5.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 11 O / W lotion Wt .-% paraffin oil 8.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 petrolatum 4.00 cetearyl 2.00 PEG-40 castor oil 0.50 sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50 Sodium carbomer 0.40 phytic acid 2.0 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.5 glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20 octyl 5.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 12 O / W cream Wt .-% paraffin oil 7.00 avocado oil 4.00 glyceryl 2.00 sodium 1.00 phytic acid 0.8 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.2 Titanium dioxide 1.00 sodium lactate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 13 Lip Balm Wt .-% Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00 ceresin 8.00 beeswax 4.00 carnauba 2.00 petrolatum 40,00 phytic acid 1.5 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.2 β-carotene 0.10 Paraffin oil, pigments and dyes ad 100.00

Example 14 Liposome-containing gel Wt .-% lecithin 6.00 shea butter 3.00 phytic acid 1.0 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.1 Vitamin A palmitate 0.20 biotin 0.08 sodium citrate 0.50 glycine 0.20 urea 0.20 Sodium PCA 0.50 Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00 Xanthan gum 1.40 sorbitol 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 15 conditioner Wt .-% paraffin oil 3.00 almond oil 3.00 Cetostearylalcohol 5.00 PEG-40 castor oil 1.00 Natriumcetearylsulfate 0.50 sorbitol 5.00 glycerin 5.00 phytic acid 0.5 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 1.00 dilaurythiodipropionate 0.05 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 16 massage cream Wt .-% stearyl 2.00 petrolatum 4.00 dimethicone 2.00 isopropyl palmitate 6.00 cetearyl 4.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 phytic acid 0.5 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.3 glycerin 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 17 O / W lotion Wt .-% paraffin oil 8.00 isopropyl palmitate 3.00 petrolatum 4.00 cetearyl 2.00 PEG-40 castor oil 0.50 sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50 Sodium carbomer 0.40 phytic acid 2.0 deferoxamine 0.5 glycerin 3.00 alpha-tocopherol 0.20 octyl 5.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 18 O / W cream Wt .-% paraffin oil 7.00 avocado oil 4.00 glyceryl 2.00 sodium 1.00 phytic acid 0.8 deferoxamine 0.2 sodium phytate 1.00 alpha-hydroxy palmitic acid 0.3 Titanium dioxide 1.00 sodium lactate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Claims (11)

1. Use of phytic acid or its salts for the prophylaxis and Treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the Hair. 2. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing phytic acid or its salts for prophylaxis and Treatment of damaging oxidative effects on the skin or the Hair. 3. Active substance combinations containing one or more active substances Active substances selected from the group of phytic acid and their salts in Combination with one or more active substances selected from the group of chelating agents. 4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing an active ingredient combination according to claim 3. 5. Use of active compound combinations according to claim 3 for Prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative effects the skin or the hair. 6. use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized by a content of an active ingredient combination according to Claim 3 for the prophylaxis and treatment of damaging oxidative Effects on the skin or hair. 7. active ingredient combination according to claim 3, characterized in that it contains alpha-hydroxypalmitic acid and / or deferoxamine. 8. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phytic acid or its salts are combined with antioxidants.   9. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phytic acid or its salts with at least one UVA filter and / or at least one UVB filter are combined. 10. active ingredient combinations according to claim 3, characterized that they are combined with antioxidants. 11. active ingredient combinations according to claim 3, characterized that they contain at least one UVA filter and / or at least one UVB filter. Filters are combined.