EP0958845B1 - Safety device for a climbing rope - Google Patents

Abstract

The frame has a housing with at least two or more rollers (4-6) to guide and steer the climbing cable (7). The rollers can be positioned in a common plane (E) and at least one of the rollers has a free wheel by which a downward movement of the cable section (7b) on which the climbing person hangs is prevented. The three rollers can be arranged in the housing so that their axes (X,Y,Z) are positioned on the apices of a triangle. The cable can be guided two dimensionally in the plane of the rollers.

Description

The invention relates to a safety device for a climbing rope climbing person, the climbing rope through the belay device can be pulled through and at one end of the climbing rope the person climbing attachable and at the other end of the climbing rope by a belayer is mountable, comprising a housing with at least two or more in one common level in the housing rotatably arranged rollers over which the Climbing rope is feasible, with at least one of the rollers with a freewheel is equipped, when pulling the climbing rope in the direction of securing person allows the roller to rotate and in the opposite direction Direction blocked rotation of the role, so that the climbing rope at one Pulling towards the person climbing over the blocked roll underneath Generation of rope friction making pulling slips.

Climbing in climbing halls originated from extreme rock climbing. For this reason, equipment for Mountaineers in the hall used the climbing person against falls to secure. However, these items of equipment are among others Aspects have been developed, being lightweight and versatile Applicability was critical. Dealing with these It is important that the belayer with the equipment Belay device is practiced and performs its task with great care.

In climbing halls, the person climbing is attached to the rope with a rope highest point of the climbing route is redirected by a belayer secured. Here, the belayer uses a device that is attached to their Body is attached. In this device the climbing rope on which the climbing person is secured, braked when lowering. The handling this device requires great care and experience in all cases.

Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, indoor climbing or increasingly secure beginners or inexperienced people, so that the danger of improper securing and thus the risk of accident for the climbing person has risen sharply as a result of the risk of falling. There the intervals between the individual climbing processes are also shorter than on the rock and the person climbing with the belayer each alternates, the probability increases even for experienced climbers handling errors in dealing with known belay devices. The This has been shown by the increased number of accidents in the recent past.

There are already some automatically effective rope brakes known for Avoidance of handling errors at the redirection point of the climbing rope be attached and secure the person climbing from above. This Known rope brakes, however, work with a wire rope, which the Climbing walls can damage. In addition, the climbing rope is taut to keep getting a light pull up on the climbing person exercised what is undesirable. Furthermore, it is in the known automatic rope brakes not possible without an appropriate auxiliary line, to rest or to put interim protections for the stop climbing person.

Other known devices work with an auxiliary line with which the Aufund Downward movement of the climbing person is controlled and made possible. However, these devices are not in overhanging climbing wall sectors usable and not practicable as it is done by the person climbing are operated and they have no hand free for such tasks when climbing Has.

DE 295 20 702 U1 describes a device for deflecting and securing of a climbing rope known when exceeding a predetermined downward rope speed, e.g. B. in the event of a crash Person automatically triggers a braking mechanism that the person climbing intercepts and protects against the fall without the help of the belayer. at this device is accordingly a personal protection device, which automatically climbs the person to be secured against falling guaranteed.

The disadvantage here is the very complex structure of the known Device that entails high manufacturing and acquisition costs and the fact that this known device is only suitable fixed climbing walls can be installed on different, changing Places of use, such as those used in the training of emergency services occur, but is not applicable because an exact selection of the Attachment point for the proper functioning of the known device Requirement is. It has also been shown that the self-releasing Braking mechanism of the known device the climbing person too often tempted to act carelessly so that they become unnecessarily high Exposes risk.

These devices explained above also enable climbing person alone, d. H. without the help of a belayer climb. For recreational climbing in climbing halls, however, climbing is included a partner, d. H. a securing person, if only for the sake of Communication wanted.

DE 43 15 952 A1, DE-AS 2 064 761 and DE-AS 22 31 844 describe Descenders where the climbing or safety rope is at the highest point the climbing route is guided over a roller and redirected, the roller is freely rotatable in one direction by means of a freewheel and in the other Direction blocked so that the climbing rope slips over the blocked pulley, the rope friction to secure the climbing person against a Crashes is increased. A disadvantage of these known abseiling devices is that that the rope always runs in several turns around the single roll must be in order to achieve the necessary for the safety function Wrap angle and the resulting rope friction guarantee. However, the climbing rope can make single turns skip, which can lead to undesirable blocking of the descender can. Furthermore, these known abseiling devices when the climbing person very warm due to the resulting rope friction adversely affects the wear of the climbing rope and the descender. This rope friction becomes very large, especially at high abseiling speeds and leads to considerable heat development, the high rope wear and tear Changes in properties of the same causes.

In principle, all known from the prior art also point and with a one-way blocking freewheel for one of the rope guides serving role working devices on the disadvantage that they only to secure people with a certain suitable body weight and a certain length of climbing rope, especially on the side facing the securing person. So it can be with one too easy climbing person that even controlled descent occur the same is not possible because the climbing rope due to the blocked Free-running rope friction no longer slips. Furthermore, at a very high climbing wall or also for certain missions that require abseiling require people from a great height, e.g. B. emergency services, Fire brigade etc., the climbing rope is necessarily of great length, to bridge these heights to secure the person. Because the belaying Person is usually far below the climbing or rappelling Person, this requires a correspondingly long rope part of the climbing rope, on which the belaying person attacks and which is between them securing person and the device extends. This long part of the rope However, climbing ropes already have a considerable weight, what can lead to the weight of the climbing or abseiling Person is no longer sufficient to the generated by the known device To overcome rope friction and the dead weight of the aforementioned rope part. so that even controlled rappelling is no longer possible.

On the other hand, a case would also be conceivable that a very severe one person climbing the rope friction generated by the device sufficient to reliably secure them against falling. The well-known Devices therefore have an undesirably restricted Work area within which they work satisfactorily, outside but fail.

The object of the invention is to provide a safety device for a climbing rope to propose to a person who is easy to use and yet all the advantages of conventional handling Offers backup methods that can be produced with little effort and that Climbing rope less stressed, especially in thermal terms adapt to different body weights and rope lengths of the Climbing ropes can be adjusted. Here, even with large climbing rope lengths for great climbing or abseiling heights still ensure reliable belaying and abseiling made possible by people.

The invention solves this problem by designing a Security device according to the characterizing features of Claim 1.

Advantageous embodiments of the invention are in the subclaims specified.

To solve the problem it is proposed that at least one of the roles as an adjusting roller in various installation positions with respect to the others Rollers can be attached in the housing, so that the total wrap angle of the climbing ropes guided over the rollers can be changed.

The invention teaches that by the proposed changeability of Total wrap angle used to generate rope friction the rope friction is responsible for the body weight of the person to be secured person at risk of falling, the length of the climbing rope and / or the experience of the person climbing and / or the person to be mastered Climbing task can be customized.

This makes it z. B. possible with very long climbing ropes correspondingly high dead weight on that of the belayer facing rope part on choosing a smaller one Wrapping angle also easy for people with low body weight drain. It is true that the one with the invention Safety device achievable braking effect on the climbing rope reduced, however, this plays with the lower body weight of the person climbing and the high weight of the long part of the climbing rope, because the generated rope friction is sufficient to secure this person. hereby The safety device according to the invention is also particularly suitable for use on very high climbing walls and for abseiling people high altitude, d. H. z. B. for emergency services.

It can be provided, for example, that the housing at least two superimposed, defining the installation positions of the roll Has holes through which the role in the different Installation positions can be fastened in the housing.

In this way, the safety device according to the invention enables one Securing climbing people at risk of falling. When the person falls interception of the falling person due to low holding forces particularly easy and secure the climbing person facilitated.

Controlled lowering of people from great heights, e.g. B. at Rescue services is easily possible.

Due to the arrangement of all roles in a common level, this will be Climbing rope just two-dimensionally in this plane around the reels, which ensures smooth running and low wear on the climbing rope in the long run are guaranteed. In particular, the frictional heating of the Climbing ropes when lowering the person is significantly reduced because of the Guiding the climbing rope over several roles despite a high one Wrap angle a large cooling surface for the removal of the Frictional heat is what is essential in one extended life of the climbing rope and the invention Precipitation device precipitates. Furthermore, the invention Safety device by guiding the climbing rope in two dimensions one level the risk of an unwanted blockage of the Safety device by jumping over the climbing rope locked out.

1. Aufgrund der einfachen Handhabung (die sichernde Person muß nur noch am freien Seilende ziehen) und der selbsttätigen Bremseigenschaft der Sicherungseinrichtung mittels blockierbarem Freilauf für mindestens eine Rolle braucht die sichernde Person keine Kenntnisse über Sicherungstechniken mehr zu besitzen.

2. Der Seilumlenkungspunkt, der zugleich der Aufhängepunkt für die erfindungsgemäße Sicherungseinrichtung ist, erfährt nur noch ca. 60 % der Belastung gegenüber einer konventionellen Sicherung, da die sichernde Person nur noch mit etwa 10 % der durch die kletternde Person verursachten Kraft an seinem entsprechenden Seilende sichern und gegebenenfalls ziehen muß.

3. Bei den bekannten Vorrichtungen mußte die sichernde Person mindestens 70 % des Gewichtes der kletternden Person wiegen, um diese abfangen zu können. Da bei der erfindungsgemäßen Sicherungseinrichtung die sichernde Person nur noch etwa 10 % der Kraft, die die kletternde Person verursacht, halten muß, spielt das Gewichtsverhältnis der beiden Personen zueinander keine Rolle mehr.

4. Die kletternde Person kann sich bei Ermüdung vom Kletterseil zum Ausruhen in ihrer Position halten lassen. Beim Abseilvorgang kann zum Einhängen von Zwischensicherungen problemlos gestoppt werden.

5. Aufgrund der Freiläufe der erfindungsgemäßen Sicherungseinrichtung kann eine gestürzte kletternde Person von der sichernden Person ohne nennenswerte Reibung wieder hochgezogen werden; bislang war bei den konventionellen Sicherungssystemen aufgrund der unvermeidlichen Reibung in der Umlenkung des Kletterseiles hier das 1,8-fache Gewicht der kletternden Person zu überwinden.

6. Da das Kletterseil in der erfindungsgemäßen Sicherungseinrichtung nur noch zweidimensional in einer Ebene geführt wird, krangelt es nicht mehr, wodurch der Verschleiß erheblich verringert wird und sich in einer längeren Lebensdauer des Kletterseiles niederschlägt.

7. Durch die zweidimensionale Führung des Kletterseiles in einer Ebene innerhalb der erfindungsgemäßen Sicherungseinrichtung wird die Ableitung der reibungsbedingten Wärmeentwicklung wesentlich verbessert, was eine erhöhte Lebensdauer des Kletterseiles zur Folge hat.

8. Die erfindungsgemäße Sicherungseinrichtung läßt sich mit geringem Aufwand an unterschiedliche Einsatzaufgaben und Körpergewichte der kletternden Personen anpassen.

9. Die erfindungsgemäße Sicherungseinrichtung eignet sich auch als Rettungsgerät zum Abseilen von Personen aus großer Höhe.

The safety device according to the invention therefore serves as a rope brake for the climbing rope and has compared to conventional, for. B. Belay devices used in climbing halls have the following advantages:

1. Because of the simple handling (the securing person only has to pull on the free end of the rope) and the automatic braking property of the securing device by means of a lockable freewheel for at least one role, the securing person no longer needs to have any knowledge of securing techniques.

2. The rope deflection point, which is also the suspension point for the safety device according to the invention, only experiences about 60% of the load compared to a conventional safety device, since the person securing the rope only has about 10% of the force caused by the person climbing on its corresponding rope end secure and pull if necessary.

3. In the known devices, the belaying person had to weigh at least 70% of the weight of the climbing person in order to be able to intercept them. Since the belaying person in the belay device according to the invention only has to hold about 10% of the force caused by the climbing person, the weight ratio of the two people to one another no longer plays a role.

4. The climber can be held in position by the climbing rope to relax when he is tired. During the abseiling process, intermediate safety devices can easily be stopped.

5. Because of the freewheels of the securing device according to the invention, a fallen climbing person can be pulled up again by the securing person without any significant friction; Up to now, the 1.8 times the weight of the person climbing had to be overcome with conventional safety systems due to the inevitable friction in the deflection of the climbing rope.

6. Since the climbing rope in the securing device according to the invention is now only guided two-dimensionally in one plane, it no longer sucks, as a result of which the wear is considerably reduced and is reflected in a longer service life of the climbing rope.

7. The two-dimensional guidance of the climbing rope in one plane within the safety device according to the invention significantly improves the dissipation of the heat caused by friction, which results in an increased service life of the climbing rope.

8. The safety device according to the invention can be adapted to different tasks and body weights of climbing people with little effort.

9. The safety device according to the invention is also suitable as a rescue device for abseiling people from great heights.

An advantageous embodiment of the invention provides that a total of three Rollers are arranged in the housing and their axes are the corner points of a Form a triangle.

To create sufficiently high frictional forces within the Belay device according to the invention, for securing the climbing Person is sufficient, the climbing rope is advantageous in the of the reels plane formed two-dimensionally in a total wrap angle of 400 ° to 500 ° around the rollers.

Total wrap angle is understood here to mean the angle in the associated bow length the climbing rope on the respective roles overall there is along this arc length for securing the climbing person required rope friction from the reels onto the climbing rope can be transferred.

To create sufficiently large rope friction forces, both one and also several roles within the device according to the invention with one Be equipped freewheeling when pulling the climbing rope in Direction of the belayer allows the rollers to rotate and in opposite direction blocked rotation of the rollers, being in one advantageous embodiment is provided that all roles with such Freewheels are equipped.

Furthermore, the role facing the person climbing can be a larger one Have diameter than the other roles, because of this larger role already the greatest rope friction and strength against unimpeded pulling through of the climbing rope in the direction of the person climbing. The Diameter dimensioning depends on the permissible Blocking force of the freewheels used and the intended Field of application of the safety device according to the invention.

To guide the climbing rope within the invention Belay device can also some roles with a circumferential groove be trained so that the climbing rope is guided while the changeable installable adjusting roller advantageously has a cylindrical circumference.

Figur 1

die Seitenansicht auf die erfindungsgemäße Sicherungseinrichtung,

Figur 2

die Ansicht gemäß Pfeil A in Figur 1 auf die erfindungsgemäße Sicherungseinrichtung,

Figur 3

die Anwendung der erfindungsgemäßen Sicherungseinrichtung bei einer an einer Kletterwand kletternden Person,

Figur 4

die Befestigung der erfindungsgemäßen Sicherungseinrichtung,

The invention is illustrated and explained in more detail below in the drawing using exemplary embodiments. Show it:

Figure 1

the side view of the safety device according to the invention,

Figure 2

the view according to arrow A in Figure 1 of the safety device according to the invention,

Figure 3

the application of the safety device according to the invention to a person climbing on a climbing wall,

Figure 4

the attachment of the safety device according to the invention,

FIG. 3 schematically shows a climbing process on one in a hall built climbing wall KW shown. A backup facility for a Climbing rope 7, also called belay device 100 for short, is the highest Point of the climbing route, for example attached to the KW climbing wall. The Climbing rope 7 is guided through the belay device 100 and deflected and is divided into the two rope parts 7a and 7b. On the rope part 7b hangs on the lower free end of the climbing person K, while on Rope part 7a attacks the securing person S and holds the climbing person K and secures against falling. The rope part on which the belayer S attacks, is also referred to as tether part 7a, while the rope part, on from which the climbing person K hangs, also referred to as safety rope part 7b becomes.

In FIG. 1, the safety device serving as a safety device 100 is for the climbing rope 7 schematically in a side view in more detail shown. The belay device 100 comprises a housing 3 which for example on the KW climbing wall at the highest point climbing route to be secured is installed, d. H. both the belaying Person S as well as the climbing person K are always below the Device, see also Figure 3.

As can also be seen from FIG. 2, the housing 3 is made up of two spaced apart bearing plates 33, 34 formed on the top a bridge part 30 is connected by means of screws 31, not shown are. The bridge part 30 of the housing 3 can, for example, by means of Screws 35 on a support 32 at the highest point of the climbing route on the Climbing wall KW are attached, see also Figure 4, where also other mounting options are conceivable. Inside the housing 3 are three rollers 4, 5, 6 rotatably mounted between the bearing plates 33, 34 and arranged so that their axes X, Y, Z are the corner points of a triangle form, which is in the illustration of Figure 1 on the top and that Climbing rope 7 is guided successively over these rollers 4, 5, 6. A safe guidance of the climbing rope 7 on the rollers is effected in that both the roller 4 and roller 6 have a circumferential groove, i.e. their Diameter increases on both sides, causing the climbing rope 7 to open laterally the roles, especially when it is run quickly, see see Figure 2. The middle roller 5, also referred to as an adjusting roller has a cylindrical circumference.

To facilitate the threading of the climbing rope 7 into the housing 3 is also a Breakthrough 36 in the bearing plates 33 and 34 provided the climbing rope 7 just around the rollers 4, 5 and 6 in the manner shown can.

At least one of the rollers 4, 5, 6 is not shown with one Equipped freewheel, but preferably all three rollers 4, 5, 6. The freewheel blocked when pulling the climbing rope 7 in the direction of the climbing Person (K), i.e. with a downward movement of the cable part 7b in the direction of the arrow H2 on which the climbing person K is attached. In the opposite, by the Arrow H1 indicated direction, however, are the rollers 4, 5 and 6 through the Freewheels are not hindered in their rotatability, so that the securing person S the climbing rope 7 in this direction, i.e. towards you, without noteworthy Friction can pull through and through Pulling the tether part 7a easily exerts a force on the climbing person K can exercise to hold this and prevent falling from the Secure climbing wall KW.

The rollers 4, 5 and 6 are in the housing 3 on a common plane E. arranged, see also Figure 2, so that the climbing rope 7th two-dimensionally over the rollers 4, 5, 6 in this plane E. The Sum of the wrap angles of the climbing rope 7 around the rollers 4, 5, 6 is in the embodiment shown in the drawing a total of about 500 °. This total wrap angle creates at a crash of the climbing person K and the person caused thereby Pull on rope part 7b in the direction of arrow H2, i.e. towards the climbing Person (K), due to the blocking of the freewheels of the rollers 4, 5, and 6 a high sliding friction acting on the climbing rope 7. The roles 4, 5 and 6 are then blocked by those blocking in this direction Freewheels on a turn with the by the safety device in Direction on the climbing person K through climbing rope 7 prevented and the climbing rope slips over the blocked rollers, the high one Friction and the resulting braking effect on the climbing rope becomes. Here, an adjustable force ratio of holding force H1 belaying person S to the securing force H2 of the climbing person K from z. B. 1:10 can be generated. This means that the belayer S only about 1/10 of the strength that the climbing and secured person needs to exert K generated by their weight and dynamics.

For this purpose, the role facing the climbing person K, in particular the roller 4 adjacent to the cable part 7b with a larger diameter than the remaining rollers 5 and 6 designed to over the associated freewheel the greatest possible braking effect on the climbing rope 7 generating power and the weight of the climbing Dismantle person K as far as possible.

The arrangement of the rollers within the housing 3 can also be different Be made as in the present embodiment explained. For example, the axes can be provided with three rollers any, for example also form an isosceles triangle or even on one Straight lines. It is also possible to arrange more than three roles, each according to the desired total wrap angle of the climbing rope 7 at Performing and redirecting in device 100.

In addition to that on the climbing rope 7 to achieve the previous to adjust the braking effect of the rope friction acting in its strength can, for example, to adapt to different body weights of the climbing person K or different lengths of climbing rope 7, d. H. To be able to carry out in particular the rope part 7a is shown in FIG illustrated embodiment further the middle, d. H. the between the Rollers 4 and 6 arranged roller 5 as an adjusting roller in three different, with Y1, Y2 and Y3 marked installation positions in relation to the others Rollers 4 and 6 attachable within the housing 3. There are several of them bores 50, 51, 52 arranged one above the other are provided, which Define the respective installation positions Y1, Y2 and Y3 and each with the Guide bearing plates 33, 34 in alignment with each other. In these Bores 50, 51, 52 can then the adjusting roller 5 by screwing corresponding axle bolts or the like. are secured and fastened.

These different installation positions Y1, Y2 and Y3 make it possible to the total wrap angle of the securing device 100 guided climbing rope 7 to vary over all three roles 4, 5 and 6, being in the installation position Y1 of the adjusting roller 5 is the largest wrap angle of z. B. 500 ° and in the installation position Y3 the smallest wrap angle of z. B. 400 ° is achieved. Since the rope friction that can be exerted on the rope leads to Secure the climbing person K at risk of falling due to the blocking freewheels serves, directly from the total wrap angle of the climbing rope when passing through the safety device 100 depends, can therefore be exercised by the security device 100 Holding or braking effect on the climbing rope 7 can be varied and thus a Adaptation to different body weights of the climbers to be secured Person K or the respective climbing task to be mastered. In particular, it is possible to choose a smaller one Wrap angle the rope friction generated by the safety device to reduce to the extent that it can also be used on a very high climbing wall or to abseil a person from a great height, e.g. B. at one Rescue operation is possible. In these cases, the securing person 5 facing rope part 7a a considerable length and thus a very high weight on what u. U. in connection with that of the securing device 100 generated rope friction pulling through the Climbing ropes in the direction of the climbing person K or a person to be abseiled Person prevented. By selecting a smaller one accordingly However, this controlled abseiling is also eliminated from the wrap angle allows great height, which extends the area of application of the Security device 100 significantly expanded. In all of these cases it is by simply loosening the adjusting roller 5 and fastening it in another Installation position easily and quickly possible, such an adjustment to make and change. The one shown in Figure 1 Security device 100 is therefore individual to the respective needs and customizable.

It is also essential for the safety device 100 shown that through the only two-dimensional guidance and redirection of the Climbing ropes 7 within the housing 3 in a common plane E itself with a quick pull of the climbing rope 7 only a small one frictional heating takes place and also the generated Frictional heat can be dissipated over a large area, so that the thermal Load on both the climbing rope 7 and the securing device 100 is significantly minimized, which results in a much longer Durability and high operational reliability.

The safety device described is climbing to secure people at risk of falling, for example on climbing walls and scaffolding for sporting purposes or also for training mountaineers or at Exercises by rescue services, fire services etc. can be used in a variety of ways.

It is also possible to use the safety device as a rescue device for To provide for emergencies, e.g. B. abseiling of people from cable cars etc. to enable in an emergency.

Claims (8)

1. A safety device for a climber's climbing rope, in which the climbing rope can be pulled through the safety device such that the climber can be attached to one end of the climbing rope and the other end of the climbing rope can be secured by a person responsible for safety, including a housing with at least two or more rollers arranged rotatably in the same plane in the housing, around which the climbing rope can be passed, at least one of the rollers being equipped with a free-wheel, which enables the roller to rotate when the climbing rope is pulled in the direction of the safety person and blocks rotation of the roller when the climbing rope is pulled in the opposite direction, so that when pulled through in the direction of the climber the climbing rope passes over the blocked roller, creating friction with the rope that renders it difficult to pull the rope through,
   characterised in that
   at least one of the rollers (4, 5, 6) can be fitted in the housing (2) as an adjusting roller in various installed positions relative to the other rollers, so that the total arc of contact of the climbing rope (7) as it passes over the rollers is adjustable.
2. The device according to claim 1, characterised in that the housing (2) includes at least two holes (50, 51, 52) arranged one above the other and defining the installation positions of the adjusting roller, via which the adjusting roller can be secured in the various fitted positions in the housing.
3. The device according to either of claims 1 or 2,
   characterised in that three rollers (4, 5, 6) are arranged in the housing (2) and their axes (X, Y, Z) form the vertices of a triangle and one roller is configured as an adjusting roller.
4. The device according to any of claims 1 to 3,
   characterised in that the climbing rope (7) can be passed round the rollers (4, 5, 6) with a total arc of contact from 400° to 500°.
5. The device according to any of claims 1 to 4,
   characterised in that all the rollers (4, 5, 6) are provided with a free-wheel, which allows rotation of the rollers (4, 5, 6) when the climbing rope (7) is pulled through in the direction of the safety person (S), and which prevents rotation of the rollers (4, 5, 6) when the rope is pulled in the opposite direction.
6. The device according to any of claims 1 to 5,
   characterised in that the roller (4) closest to the climber (K) has a larger diameter than the other rollers (5, 6).
7. The device according to any of claims 1 to 6,
   characterised in that the cable force that must be applied by the safety person (S) in order to securely hold the climber (K) is one tenth or less of the weight of the climber (K).
8. The device according to any of claims 1 to 7,
   characterised in that the adjusting roller has a cylindrical circumference and the other rollers have a circumferential groove for guiding the climbing rope (7).

Images