EP0943310B1 - Filmbildende Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine wässrige Polyurethandispersion und einen Weichmacher - Google Patents

Filmbildende Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine wässrige Polyurethandispersion und einen Weichmacher Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0943310B1
EP0943310B1 EP99400284A EP99400284A EP0943310B1 EP 0943310 B1 EP0943310 B1 EP 0943310B1 EP 99400284 A EP99400284 A EP 99400284A EP 99400284 A EP99400284 A EP 99400284A EP 0943310 B1 EP0943310 B1 EP 0943310B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
plasticizer
composition according
composition
polyurethane
film
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
EP99400284A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0943310A1 (de
Inventor
Valérie de la Poterie
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP0943310A1 publication Critical patent/EP0943310A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0943310B1 publication Critical patent/EP0943310B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
    • C08K5/04—Oxygen-containing compounds
    • C08K5/10—Esters; Ether-esters
    • C08K5/11—Esters; Ether-esters of acyclic polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L75/00—Compositions of polyureas or polyurethanes; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L75/04—Polyurethanes
    • C08L75/06—Polyurethanes from polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a film-forming composition, in particular topical, comprising a film-forming polyurethane intended in particular for the cosmetic fields and / or dermatological.
  • the invention also relates to a use of this composition for the treatment and care of keratin materials such as the skin, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or mucous membranes such as lips and the inside of the eyelids. It is intended more specifically for treatment and / or nail care.
  • EP-A-143480, EP-A-648485 and EP-A-EP-A-775483 are known nail and lip makeup compositions comprising as film-forming polymer a polyurethane in aqueous dispersion.
  • the film deposited on the nail or the lips after the application of a film-forming composition must have good flexibility to avoid cracking or flaking.
  • plasticizers it is common practice to add to the film-forming composition plasticizers to adjust the flexibility of the film without weakening his physical resistance.
  • Document EP-A-637600 describes nail varnish compositions comprising an aqueous polyester-polyurethane dispersion and a plasticizing solvent. It is also known from documents EP-A-613676 and JP-A-03112916 of varnishes in an organic solvent medium containing a citrate.
  • film-forming compositions such as nail varnishes must have certain rheological characteristics, such as low viscosity, for facilitate their application, in particular using a brush.
  • rheological characteristics such as low viscosity
  • compositions comprising a dispersion aqueous polyurethane and certain plasticizers tend to thicken over time. This increase in viscosity occurs more particularly during storage of the composition at high temperature, in particular from 45 ° C, and especially after one week, or several months at room temperature.
  • the composition thus thickened is difficult to apply and does not allow the deposition of a homogeneous and continuous film. Some plasticizers even lead to solidification in the bottle making the composition unusable.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a film-forming composition containing an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles having good stability and / or cosmetic properties and not having the drawbacks mentioned above.
  • Such a composition can be obtained by using a selection of particular plasticizers. These plasticizers allow the composition to be stored at high temperature, in particular at 45 ° C., for 2 weeks or even several months, while avoiding a significant increase of the viscosity of the composition over time. We then obtain a film-forming composition having a viscosity stable over time.
  • the composition is easy to apply, in particular using a brush, on the support to treat as for example keratin materials.
  • the subject of the present invention is a film-forming composition
  • a film-forming composition comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles and at least one plasticizing agent, characterized in that the plasticizing agent is chosen from solvents having an average solubility parameter dH from HANSEN to 25 ° C such that dH ⁇ 8 (J / cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the plasticizing agent according to the invention may also have an average solubility parameter dP of HANSEN at 25 ° C such that dP ⁇ 3 (J / cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 , and better still dP ⁇ 2 (J / cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the parameters dP and dH are expressed in (J / cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the plasticizing agent can be chosen from dialkyl adipates in C3-C10, dialkyl phthalates in C3-C10, acetyl tributyl citrate.
  • the plasticizing agent can be chosen from dibutyl phthalate, diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, tributyl acetyl citrate.
  • the polyurethane in aqueous dispersion can be an anionic polyurethane.
  • This anionic character is in particular due to the presence of groups with function carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid in the polymer.
  • one or more aqueous dispersions of one or more can be used.
  • several polyurethanes can be used.
  • the polyurethane can be chosen from polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes, and preferably from anionic polyester polyurethanes.
  • the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane polyurethane can be chosen from those in which the size of the polyurethane particles ranges from 2 to 100 nm and in which the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30 ° C. and at 50% relative humidity, a layer 300 ⁇ m thick (before drying) of a 28% aqueous dispersion of dry matter of said polyurethane particles ranges from 15 to 300 seconds.
  • the hardness of the film is measured according to standard ASTM D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
  • polyester-polyurethanes sold under the names "AVALURE UR-405®”, “AVALURE UR-425®”, “SANCURE 2060®” by the company SANNCOR and polyether polyurethanes sold under the names “SANCURE 878®” by the company SANNCOR, "NEOREZ R 970®” by the company ICI.
  • the polyurethane can be present in the composition in a amount ranging from 3 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight.
  • the plasticizing agent can be present in a amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may contain adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, especially topical.
  • adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, especially topical.
  • additives dyes, pigments, nacres, lacquers, anti-UV agents, preservatives, thickening agents, surfactants, waxes, perfumes, moisturizers.
  • the man in the profession will take care to choose this or these possible additives, and / or their quantity, such so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention do not are not, or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition.
  • the composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for the treatment, make-up, or care for keratin materials and / or mucous membranes depending on the nature of the assets used.
  • the makeup composition can be a varnish nail polish, eyeliner, mascara, foundation, concealer, blush eyelids or cheeks, a lipstick (lip lacquer), or even a composition body makeup.
  • composition according to the invention can advantageously be in the form a nail polish or a nail care composition.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment or make-up method keratin materials, and in particular the nails, and / or mucous membranes, consisting in applying to the keratinous materials and / or the mucous membranes a composition as described above.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of at least one aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles and at least one plasticizing agent chosen from solvents having an average solubility parameter dH of HANSEN at 25 ° C such that dH ⁇ 8 (J / cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 as defined above for obtaining a film-forming composition having a viscosity stable over time and / or easy to apply and / or not solidifying over time.
  • the viscosities were measured using the BROOKFIELD RVTDV viscometer 2+ with the RV6 mobile at a rotation speed of 100 rpm, after 10 mobile rotation minutes, at 25 ° C.
  • the plasticizers according to the invention allow to obtain a film-forming composition, after storage at 45 ° C., having a viscosity at most 1380 mPa.s significantly lower than the viscosities obtained for the compositions comprising a plasticizer not forming part of the present invention, the latter even leading to stick formation.
  • the compositions according to the invention remain fluid after storage and are suitable for be applied on a support to be treated like nails or lips they have a viscosity stable over time.
  • compositions (E9 to E12) were prepared according to the invention and 1 composition (E13) not forming part of the invention with the same film-forming polymer using different plasticizers at a content of 5% by weight (instead of 10% by weight) relative to the total weight of polymer.
  • composition comprising triethyl citrate (not forming part of the invention) leads after 1 month of storage at 45 ° C to the formation of stick while the compositions according to the invention remain fluid, even after two months storage at 45 ° C.
  • the viscosities were measured at T0, T1 and T2 defined above.
  • compositions according to the invention have a viscosity lower than that of the composition comprising TPn Bu (not part of the invention).
  • compositions according to the invention have a viscosity stable over time. These more fluid compositions are therefore more easy to spread, for example with a brush, as the composition comprising TPn Drank.
  • compositions according to the invention have a viscosity lower than that of the composition comprising TPn Bu (not part of the invention).
  • a fluid composition is obtained which has good storage stability and which is easily applied to the lips.
  • a fluid varnish is obtained which has a viscosity which is stable during storage and which spreads easily over nails
  • a fluid varnish is obtained which has good storage stability and which is applied easily on the edge of the eyelids.

Claims (16)

  1. Filmbildende kosmetische Zusammensetzung, die mindestens eine wäßrige Dispersion von Polyurethanpartikeln und mindestens einen Weichmacher enthält, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Weichmacher unter den Lösungsmitteln ausgewählt ist, die bei 25 °C einen mittleren Solubilitätsparameter dH gemäß HANSEN von dH ≤ 8 (J/cm3)1/2 aufweisen, wobei der Weichmacher unter den C3-10-Dialkyladipaten, C3-10-Dialkylphthalaten und Tributylacetylcitrat ausgewählt ist und in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegt.
  2. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Weichmacher bei 25 °C einen mittleren Solubilitätsparameter dP von dP ≤ 3 (J/cm3)1/2 aufweist.
  3. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Weichmacher unter Dibutylphthalat, 2-Diethylhexylphthalat, Diisopropyladipat, Dibutyladipat, 2-Diethylhexyladipat und Tributylacetylcitrat ausgewählt ist.
  4. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Weichmacher unter Dibutylphthalat, Diisopropyladipat, 2-Diethylhexyladipat und Tributylacetylcitrat ausgewählt ist.
  5. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Polyurethan ein anionisches Polyurethan ist.
  6. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Polyurethan unter den Polyester-Polyurethanen und Polyether-Polyurethanen ausgewählt ist.
  7. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Polyurethan ein anionisches Polyester-Polyurethan ist.
  8. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Größe der Polyurethanpartikel im Bereich von 2 bis 100 nm liegt, und dadurch, daß die Härte eines Films, der nach dem Trocknen während einer Zeitspanne von 24 h bei 30 °C und 50 % relativer Luftfeuchte einer Schicht von 300 µm Dicke einer wäßrigen Dispersion von 28 % Trockensubstanz der Polyurethanpartikel erhalten wird, im Bereich von 15 bis 300 s liegt, wobei die Härte des Films mit einem Persoz-Pendelschlagwerk nach der Norm ASTM D-43-66 oder der Norm NF-T 30-016 bestimmt wird.
  9. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Polyurethan in einer Menge von 3 bis 50 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegt.
  10. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Weichmacher in einer Menge von 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegt.
  11. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie außerdem mindestens ein Pigment und/oder ein Farbmittel enthält.
  12. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie mindestens ein Verdickungsmittel enthält.
  13. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie in Form einer Zusammensetzung zum Schminken vorliegt.
  14. Verfahren zur kosmetischen Behandlung von Keratinsubstanzen und/oder Schleimhäuten, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß auf die Keratinsubstanzen und/oder Schleimhäute eine Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13 aufgetragen wird.
  15. Verfahren zum Schminken von Keratinsubstanzen und/oder Schleimhäuten, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß auf die Keratinsubstanzen und/oder Schleimhäute eine Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13 aufgetragen wird.
  16. Verwendung mindestens einer wäßrigen Dispersion von Polyurethanpartikeln und mindestens eines Weichmachers nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, wobei der Weichmacher in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegt, zur Herstellung einer filmbildenden Zusammensetzung, die eine zeitlich stabile Viskosität aufweist und/oder leicht aufzutragen ist und/oder im Laufe der Zeit nicht fest wird.
EP99400284A 1998-03-09 1999-02-08 Filmbildende Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine wässrige Polyurethandispersion und einen Weichmacher Expired - Fee Related EP0943310B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9802838 1998-03-09
FR9802838A FR2775593B1 (fr) 1998-03-09 1998-03-09 Composition filmogene comprenant un polyurethane en dispersion aqueuse et un agent plastifiant

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0943310A1 EP0943310A1 (de) 1999-09-22
EP0943310B1 true EP0943310B1 (de) 2002-03-06

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EP99400284A Expired - Fee Related EP0943310B1 (de) 1998-03-09 1999-02-08 Filmbildende Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine wässrige Polyurethandispersion und einen Weichmacher

Country Status (9)

Country Link
US (1) US6238679B1 (de)
EP (1) EP0943310B1 (de)
JP (1) JP3242896B2 (de)
KR (1) KR19990077638A (de)
BR (1) BR9900467A (de)
CA (1) CA2262806A1 (de)
DE (1) DE69900951T2 (de)
ES (1) ES2173708T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2775593B1 (de)

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FR2708615B1 (fr) * 1993-08-04 1995-09-15 Oreal Nouveaux polyester-polyuréthannes, leur procédé de préparation, pseudo-latex réalisés à partir desdits polyester-polyuréthannes et leur utilisation dans des compositions cosmétiques.
FR2711059B1 (fr) 1993-10-15 1996-02-02 Oreal Composition cosmétique sous forme de vernis à ongles aqueux, coloré ou incolore, contenant en tant que substance filmogène des particules de polyester-polyuréthanne anionique à l'état dispersé.
FR2713649B1 (fr) 1993-12-15 1996-08-02 Oreal Composition filmogène contenant un copolymère d'alkyle perfluoré, utilisable comme vernis à ongles.
FR2718349B1 (fr) * 1994-04-07 1996-05-31 Oreal Compositions cosmétiques à appliquer sur l'ongle.
FR2718350B1 (fr) * 1994-04-08 1996-12-27 Oreal Compositions cosmétiques à appliquer sur l'ongle.
DE4438849A1 (de) 1994-11-02 1996-05-09 Henkel Kgaa Haarfestlegemittel
GB9422154D0 (en) 1994-11-03 1994-12-21 Euro Celtique Sa Pharmaceutical compositions and method of producing the same
FR2733683B1 (fr) * 1995-05-05 1997-06-06 Oreal Composition de vernis a ongles comprenant un polyester reticule
FR2740330B1 (fr) * 1995-10-27 1997-12-05 Oreal Composition comprenant un systeme polymerique et utilisation dudit systeme
US5830443A (en) 1997-07-16 1998-11-03 Lee; James K. Easy peelable flexible nail polish composition
JPH1192653A (ja) 1997-09-22 1999-04-06 Asahi Denka Kogyo Kk 水系ポリウレタン樹脂組成物

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8901199B2 (en) 2009-09-08 2014-12-02 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Compositions and methods for UV-curable cosmetic nail coatings
US9717672B2 (en) 2009-09-08 2017-08-01 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Compositions and methods for UV-curable cosmetic nail coatings

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0943310A1 (de) 1999-09-22
CA2262806A1 (fr) 1999-09-09
JPH11310699A (ja) 1999-11-09
US6238679B1 (en) 2001-05-29
DE69900951T2 (de) 2002-07-04
DE69900951D1 (de) 2002-04-11
FR2775593B1 (fr) 2002-06-14
BR9900467A (pt) 2000-05-02
JP3242896B2 (ja) 2001-12-25
FR2775593A1 (fr) 1999-09-10
ES2173708T3 (es) 2002-10-16
KR19990077638A (ko) 1999-10-25

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