EP0930835B1 - Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu - Google Patents
Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0930835B1 EP0930835B1 EP97944943A EP97944943A EP0930835B1 EP 0930835 B1 EP0930835 B1 EP 0930835B1 EP 97944943 A EP97944943 A EP 97944943A EP 97944943 A EP97944943 A EP 97944943A EP 0930835 B1 EP0930835 B1 EP 0930835B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- jewel
- stones
- stone
- base
- layer
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
- C25D1/00—Electroforming
- C25D1/02—Tubes; Rings; Hollow bodies
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T29/00—Metal working
- Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T29/00—Metal working
- Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
- Y10T29/49826—Assembling or joining
- Y10T29/49863—Assembling or joining with prestressing of part
- Y10T29/49876—Assembling or joining with prestressing of part by snap fit
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the production of pieces of jewelry by electroforming and more particularly with the embedding of stones precious, semi-precious or synthetic in the surface of a jewel metallic, especially gold.
- a solid tin alloy base with outwardly shaped and dimensions to the thickness near the gold layer which will be electro-deposited from the Creole to obtain.
- the base is then coated by electro-deposition with a very thin layer of copper to separate the gold layer from the tin and then layer of gold that can vary between 120 and 450 micrometers compared to weight of the desired jewel.
- the process for depositing gold is as follows. On the layer of copper and before placing the stones, we deposit a fine layer of gold, for example fifteen micrometers. The stones are then placed in the receiving housings. A new layer of gold is deposited, of a thickness for example between 100 and 400 micrometers, followed by a protective layer of copper.
- the tin base is extracted thermally, then the copper, by chemical treatment.
- a hollow creole is thus obtained with the stones trapped in the surface, whose shapes and reliefs are determined by those of the base that gold married by depositing in a thin layer.
- the present invention aims precisely to allow imprisonment solidly the stones and without substantial increase in thickness and therefore the weight of the wall of the jewel.
- the subject of the invention is a method of embedding stones in the surface of a jewel made by electroforming, in which realizes a base presenting externally the shapes and dimensions to the thickness near the layer of gold forming the wall of the jewel to be obtained and fitted housing for receiving stones, deposit on the base, before setting place stones, a protective layer, then a thin layer of gold, we place the stones in said housing, then place a second thicker layer of gold, and finally extracting or removing said base and said protective layer, characterized in that during the production of the base, at at least one passage is provided at the right of each dwelling, likely to communicate, once the stone in place, the space between it and the bottom of its housing with the outside, so as to allow the bath to deposit of said second layer of gold to access said space.
- the invention also relates to the jewelry obtained in accordance to the above process.
- FIGs 1 to 3 there is shown by way of example a base traditional 1, for example of tin alloy, for the production of a part of hollow jewelry of generally parallelepiped shape having a pattern of flower with four petals 2 surrounding a circular central zone 3 intended for receive for example a semi-precious stone 4 (figure 6) in the form traditional diamond.
- a well 5 intended to serve as housing for stone 4.
- the housing 5 In order to receive the stone belt 4, the housing 5 is provided with recesses 6, in the known manner. Light elevations 7 intended to represent the petals 2 are provided on the surface of the base, the ends of which facing the well 5 have, in accordance with the invention, a nose 8 slightly recessed r (FIG. 2) from the internal wall from the well 5 and projecting above said recesses 6.
- the elevations 7 are at a distance from each other and separate two by two by channels 9 which extend radially from the well 5.
- the first steps in the electrodeposition process are conventional. They consist in depositing beforehand on base 1 a protective metal layer 10 (FIG. 4), typically copper, on a thickness of 5 micrometers for example, over the entire surface of the based.
- a protective metal layer 10 typically copper
- the two deposited layers being of regular thickness, we find the slight shrinkage r between the wall of the well 5 and the nose 8 of the elevations 7.
- the stone 4 is thus kept away from the bottom of the well 5. It is note in this connection that in this position, the bottoms of channels 9 emerge into well 5 well below the level of the waist the stone 4.
- a second layer of gold 12 of thickness significantly greater than that of the first 10, for example between 120 and 430 micrometers.
- the deposit bath accesses easily in the space between the stone and the bottom of the housing 5 to deposit the same layer 12, the front of which comes in 13 in contact with the back side of stone 4, while the front of layer 12 visible in outside of the housing 5 comes in 14 in contact with the table crown of the Pierre.
- the final stages are conventional and consist in extracting by heat treatment the base and chemically remove the copper layer 10, a second protective copper layer (not shown in the drawings) can be, before the above treatments, deposited over the gold layer 12.
- the final object obtained is a hollow jewel, the part of which bears the stone 4 is shown enlarged in Figure 9.
- the table 15 of the stone can be at the level of the ends in look of the petals 2 of the decorative pattern or at a different level.
- the invention is obviously not limited to the embodiment shown and described above, but on the contrary covers all variants in particular with regard to the nature, shape and dimensions of the jewel, the number of stones 4, their shape, the shapes and dimensions of the receiving housings, number, shape, arrangement of channel (s) 9 or the like intended to convey the gold deposit bath under the stones in place in their housing, as well as the shape, dimensions and distribution of parts such as the noses 8 of the elevations 7, decorative or not, intended to allow engagement by clipping of the stones in their housing, before depositing the second layer of gold, or other metal or precious alloy.
Landscapes
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Electrochemistry (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Metallurgy (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Adornments (AREA)
Description
- Figure 1 est une vue de dessus d'une base pour la réalisation d'une pièce creuse selon le procédé de l'invention ;
- Figure 2 est une vue en coupe suivant la ligne Il-Il de la base de la figure 1 ;
- Figure 3 est une vue en coupe suivant la ligne III-III de la base de la figure 1 ;
- Figure 4 représente la base de la figure 2 après dépôt d'une couche protectrice de cuivre ;
- Figure 5 représente la base de la figure 4 après dépôt de la première couche d'or ;
- Figure 6 représente la base de la figure 5 munie d'une pierre ;
- Figure 7 est une vue de dessus de la base de la figure 6 ;
- Figure 8 représente la base de la figure 6 après dépôt de la seconde couche d'or, et
- Figure 9 est une vue agrandie illustrant l'enchâssement de la pierre de la figure 8.
Claims (6)
- Procédé d'enchâssement de pierres (4) dans la surface d'un bijou réalisé par électroformage, dans lequel on réalise une base (1) présentant extérieurement les formes et dimensions à l'épaisseur près de la couche d'or formant la paroi du bijou à obtenir et munie de logements (5) de réception des pierres (4), on dépose sur la base (1), avant mise en place des pierres, une couche protectrice (10), puis une mince couche d'or (11), on met en place les pierres (4) dans lesdits logements (5), puis on dépose une seconde couche d'or (12), plus épaisse, et, enfin, on extrait ou enlève ladite base (1) et ladite couche protectrice (10), caractérisé en ce que lors de la réalisation de la base (1), au moins un passage (9) est ménagé au droit de chaque logement (5), susceptible de faire communiquer, une fois la pierre (4) en place, l'espace entre cette dernière et le fond de son logement (5) avec l'extérieur, en sorte de permettre au bain de dépôt de ladite seconde couche d'or (12) d'accéder audit espace.
- Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'en outre, lors de la réalisation de la base (1), on ménage des rehaussements (7) dont une partie (8) vient en saillie au dessus de creux (6) de réception d'une pierre (4) dans un puits (5), ladite pierre étant engagée par clipsage dans ledit puits.
- Procédé suivant la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que lesdits passages faisant communiquer l'espace entre chaque pierre (4) et le fond de son logement (5) sont des canaux (9) ou analogues, interposés entre lesdits rehaussements (7).
- Bijou obtenu conformément au procédé de l'une des revendications 1 à 3.
- Bijou suivant la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce qu'il est creux et d'épaisseur de paroi, y compris la paroi des puits (5) en dessous des pierres (4), constante.
- Bijou suivant la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que ladite épaisseur de paroi est comprise entre 135 et 450 micromètres.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9612580 | 1996-10-09 | ||
FR9612580A FR2754152B1 (fr) | 1996-10-09 | 1996-10-09 | Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu |
PCT/FR1997/001795 WO1998015202A1 (fr) | 1996-10-09 | 1997-10-08 | Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0930835A1 EP0930835A1 (fr) | 1999-07-28 |
EP0930835B1 true EP0930835B1 (fr) | 2001-06-27 |
Family
ID=9496694
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP97944943A Expired - Lifetime EP0930835B1 (fr) | 1996-10-09 | 1997-10-08 | Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu |
Country Status (11)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US6212745B1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP0930835B1 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN1237093A (fr) |
AT (1) | ATE202458T1 (fr) |
DE (1) | DE69705418T2 (fr) |
ES (1) | ES2159881T3 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2754152B1 (fr) |
GR (1) | GR3036697T3 (fr) |
IL (1) | IL129369A (fr) |
PT (1) | PT930835E (fr) |
WO (1) | WO1998015202A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (19)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
AU3775500A (en) * | 1999-03-26 | 2000-10-16 | Laser Optronic Technologies (Proprietary) Limited | Setting of gemstones |
US20050274445A1 (en) * | 2004-06-01 | 2005-12-15 | Paul Chang | Method for manufacturing decoration of imitation metal |
ES2224892B1 (es) | 2004-07-26 | 2006-06-01 | Clemente Navarro Fabregat, S.A. | Procedimiento para la fabricacion de piezas de joyeria y piezas de joyeria obtenida. |
US20080066310A1 (en) * | 2006-09-05 | 2008-03-20 | Siu Chung Pang | Setting stones in the surface of electroformed piece |
US8328073B1 (en) * | 2008-02-07 | 2012-12-11 | Standard Chain Co. | Ornamented metallic mesh and method of making same |
EP2106716A1 (fr) * | 2008-04-01 | 2009-10-07 | The Swatch Group Management Services AG | Objet portable à effet décoratif |
ES2328780B2 (es) | 2008-11-25 | 2010-06-01 | Rafael Gomez Sanchez, S.A. | Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento. |
CN101828799A (zh) * | 2009-03-11 | 2010-09-15 | 栢莱化工有限公司 | 制造硬质金珠宝的方法 |
RU2546501C2 (ru) | 2009-11-25 | 2015-04-10 | Дресс Ёр Боди Аг | Декоративный элемент в невидимой оправе |
EP2549341A1 (fr) * | 2011-07-20 | 2013-01-23 | The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. | Procédé pour implanter un décor dans un élément d'habillage horloger déposé par galvanoplastie et élément d'habillage réalisé selon ce procédé |
US10772396B2 (en) * | 2012-12-21 | 2020-09-15 | Omega S.A. | Decorative piece produced by setting on amorphous metal |
CN104593831A (zh) * | 2015-01-26 | 2015-05-06 | 黄盛平 | 利用3d贵金属技术制作手表的方法 |
WO2017005284A1 (fr) * | 2015-07-05 | 2017-01-12 | D. Swarovski Kg | Monture pour pierre décorative, pourvue d'une couche de cuivre à aspect patiné |
CN107345306A (zh) * | 2017-07-24 | 2017-11-14 | 彭少中 | 一种电铸蜡镶珠宝工艺 |
EP3479721B1 (fr) * | 2017-11-07 | 2020-05-13 | The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd | Procede de sertissage d'une pierre |
EP3479720B1 (fr) * | 2017-11-07 | 2020-03-25 | The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd | Procede de sertissage d'une pierre |
CN108244782B (zh) * | 2018-01-26 | 2019-11-12 | 深圳市铭冠珠宝首饰有限公司 | 一种饰品珠宝镶嵌工艺 |
EP3771359B1 (fr) | 2019-07-29 | 2023-05-10 | The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd | Procédé de sertissage d'une pierre |
IT202100025787A1 (it) * | 2021-10-08 | 2023-04-08 | Bp Consulting Di Barbieri Paolo | Procedimento per la realizzazione di gioielli cavi in metallo prezioso con pietre incastonate |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4543803A (en) * | 1983-11-30 | 1985-10-01 | Mark Keyasko | Lightweight, rigid, metal product and process for producing same |
DE3544429A1 (de) * | 1985-12-16 | 1987-06-19 | Juwedor Gmbh | Verfahren zur galvanoplastischen herstellung von schmuckwaren |
FR2627512A1 (fr) * | 1988-02-23 | 1989-08-25 | Or Est | Procede de sertissage par electroformage |
EP0620987A1 (fr) * | 1993-04-22 | 1994-10-26 | Firma Franz Breuning | Sertissage d'une pierre de bijouterie |
FR2717051B1 (fr) * | 1994-03-11 | 1996-08-02 | Pgcm Conception | Procédé de sertissage de pièces de bijouterie réalisées par électroformage et pièces ainsi obtenues. |
-
1996
- 1996-10-09 FR FR9612580A patent/FR2754152B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1997
- 1997-10-08 DE DE69705418T patent/DE69705418T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1997-10-08 EP EP97944943A patent/EP0930835B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1997-10-08 CN CN97199626A patent/CN1237093A/zh active Pending
- 1997-10-08 PT PT97944943T patent/PT930835E/pt unknown
- 1997-10-08 WO PCT/FR1997/001795 patent/WO1998015202A1/fr active IP Right Grant
- 1997-10-08 AT AT97944943T patent/ATE202458T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1997-10-08 US US09/284,196 patent/US6212745B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1997-10-08 ES ES97944943T patent/ES2159881T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1997-10-08 IL IL12936997A patent/IL129369A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
-
2001
- 2001-09-24 GR GR20010401554T patent/GR3036697T3/el not_active IP Right Cessation
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO1998015202A8 (fr) | 2001-05-31 |
WO1998015202A1 (fr) | 1998-04-16 |
IL129369A0 (en) | 2000-02-17 |
PT930835E (pt) | 2001-12-28 |
US6212745B1 (en) | 2001-04-10 |
DE69705418T2 (de) | 2002-05-29 |
FR2754152A1 (fr) | 1998-04-10 |
EP0930835A1 (fr) | 1999-07-28 |
ES2159881T3 (es) | 2001-10-16 |
CN1237093A (zh) | 1999-12-01 |
GR3036697T3 (en) | 2001-12-31 |
IL129369A (en) | 2001-09-13 |
DE69705418D1 (de) | 2001-08-02 |
FR2754152B1 (fr) | 1998-12-24 |
ATE202458T1 (de) | 2001-07-15 |
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