EP0869768A1 - Procede de teinture et colorants a base naturelle - Google Patents

Procede de teinture et colorants a base naturelle

Info

Publication number
EP0869768A1
EP0869768A1 EP96943952A EP96943952A EP0869768A1 EP 0869768 A1 EP0869768 A1 EP 0869768A1 EP 96943952 A EP96943952 A EP 96943952A EP 96943952 A EP96943952 A EP 96943952A EP 0869768 A1 EP0869768 A1 EP 0869768A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
composition according
natural
weight
amounts
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP96943952A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Horst Höffkes
Bettina Bergmann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP0869768A1 publication Critical patent/EP0869768A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with naturally occurring dyes and dyes based on naturally occurring dyes.
  • Hair dyes are an important type of cosmetic. They can be used to shade the natural hair color slightly or more according to the wishes of the person concerned, to achieve a completely different hair color or to cover up unwanted hair tones, such as gray tones.
  • conventional hair colorants are formulated either on the basis of oxidation dyes or on the basis of substantive dyes. Combinations of oxidation dyes and direct dyes are often used to achieve special shades.
  • Colorants based on oxidation dyes require the use of strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide solutions. This leads to often damage to the hair to be colored, which must be counteracted with appropriate care products. In addition, skin contact with these colorants can lead to undesirable reactions in very sensitive individuals.
  • a major disadvantage of colorants based on direct dye is the poor washfastness of the colored hair.
  • the coloring components of natural hair dye products are usually powdery plant components. These are made to swell by mixing with water, so that a paste-like mass is formed, which is then applied to the hair.
  • known agents especially when the mixture contains large proportions of ground wood, it is of great disadvantage that the dye paste has only a slight suppleness and, consequently, an unsatisfactory adhesion to the hair.
  • additional water is removed from the pulp during the dyeing process. This often leads to an unpleasant hardening of the dye paste and can be disadvantageous Cases even lead to a partial crumbling.
  • the shredded parts of plants are only inadequately removed from the hair during the normal rinsing of the hair after the dyeing process.
  • the invention thus relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an agent containing a naturally occurring dye and 0.5-10% by weight of a natural emulsifier, mixed with water, applied to the hair and is rinsed out after an exposure time of 20 to 60 minutes.
  • an agent containing a naturally occurring dye and 0.5-10% by weight of a natural emulsifier mixed with water, applied to the hair and is rinsed out after an exposure time of 20 to 60 minutes.
  • these agents have properties which are so advantageous that rinsing out according to a preferred embodiment can be carried out satisfactorily with the aid of clear water.
  • Means are suitable for this process that must meet special requirements. These can be made up in several ways.
  • the invention therefore furthermore relates to compositions for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, on a natural basis occurring dyes containing 0.5-10% by weight of a natural emulsifier.
  • Colorant or “medium” for short is understood to mean the preparation or the total of the preparations which are present before being mixed with water.
  • coloring components or, briefly, as “components”.
  • Application mixture means the ready-to-order preparation after mixing with water.
  • the colorants according to the invention are preferably in solid form. This can be, for example, in the form of a powder or a granulate, with powders generally being preferred.
  • the entire colorant is packaged in the form of a single preparation.
  • the user can mix an appropriate amount of this preparation with water and apply the application mixture thus obtained to the hair.
  • water preferably heated water, in particular boiling water
  • the colorant is made up in the form of several, in particular two, components.
  • this form of packaging it is preferred to provide the natural dyes and the natural emulsifiers in separate components.
  • the other ingredients of the colorant can be divided up among the individual components in any way, whereby they can either be incorporated into only one component or into several components.
  • the colorant consists of two components, the first component consisting only of the naturally occurring dyes, while all further ingredients are contained in the second component.
  • the colorant likewise consists of two components, the first component, however, consisting only of the natural emulsifiers, while all further ingredients are contained in the second component.
  • the natural emulsifiers are compounds which are sensitive to oxidation and in which undesired reactions with other constituents of the colorant may occur in the course of longer storage times.
  • At least one component is in solid form.
  • it will preferably either consist of the naturally occurring dye or contain it.
  • the first component consists only of the naturally occurring dyes present in solid form, while the second component consists of a liquid mixture or liquid aqueous solution of the remaining ingredients of the colorant. The application mix is made available by the user immediately before use.
  • the colorant consists of only one component, it only needs to be mixed with water. If, on the other hand, the colorant consists of two or more components, in a preferred first embodiment these are first mixed together and then mixed with water. According to a further preferred embodiment, only one component of the colorant is mixed with the amount of water necessary for mixing; the second and optionally further components of the colorant are then added to this preparation.
  • the order in which the individual components may be added will be determined by the person skilled in the art on the basis of the ingredients present in each case.
  • the agents according to the invention contain a naturally occurring dye as the first mandatory ingredient.
  • a naturally occurring dye as the first mandatory ingredient.
  • Such substances which are also referred to as natural dyes below, are, for example, henna red, henna black (Indigofera argentea), henna neutral, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, sapwood, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root. zel.
  • Preferred naturally occurring dyes for the agents according to the invention are henna red, henna black, henna neutral, chamomile flowers, sandalwood and black tea.
  • the natural dyes are usually present in the colorants according to the invention in amounts of about 50-99.5% by weight, preferably in amounts of 70-95% by weight.
  • the proportion of the individual natural dyes is usually not less than 1% by weight, in particular not less than 3% by weight.
  • the colorants according to the invention contain only natural dyes as coloring components.
  • conventional synthetic oxidation dye precursors so-called developer and coupler components, and / or substantive dyes to these agents in preferably minor amounts.
  • Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives can be used as developer components, for example be used.
  • Preferred coupler components are m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols. det.
  • Suitable coupling substances are, in particular, ⁇ -naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol.
  • the developer and coupler components can generally be used in free form.
  • substances with amino groups may be preferred to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides.
  • oxidation dye precursors which are capable of the appropriate colorations solely due to air oxidation or in the presence of suitable enzymes in combination with the corresponding substrates, even in the absence of relatively high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide.
  • Direct dyes which can be used according to the invention are, for example, nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Nitro Blue, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Picramic Acid and Rodol 9 R known compounds as well as 4-Amino-2 -nitro-diphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid and 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts Other components may be included, provided that they do not adversely affect the coloring result or must be excluded for other reasons, such as toxicological ones.
  • the synthetic oxidation dye precursors or substantive dyes are preferably present in the colorants according to the invention in amounts of about 1-10% by weight.
  • the colorants according to the invention contain a natural emulsifier.
  • Preferred natural emulsifiers are, for example, phosphohpides, saponins, tannic acid, bile acids and their derivatives and abietic acid.
  • phosphophides such as lecithins, partially hydrolyzed lecithins and cephalins are preferred. Egg and soy lecithin are particularly preferred.
  • the preferred bile acids and their derivatives according to the invention include cholic acid, dexoxycholic acid, lithocholic acid and taurocholic acid.
  • the acids mentioned can also be used in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts, in particular their alkali metal and ammonium salts.
  • the colorants according to the invention can also contain several natural emulsifiers. Quantities of 1-3% by weight of natural emulsifiers have proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • Organic acids preferred according to the invention exhibit at room temperature, i.e. at 20 ° C, a water solubility of at least 1 wt .-%.
  • a particularly suitable class of organic acids are ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, Citric acid. Malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. Lactic acid and citric acid are particularly preferred.
  • the organic acids in the agents according to the invention are preferably in amounts of 0.5-5% by weight, in particular 1-3% by weight. contain.
  • the colorants already show excellent properties if they only contain these emulsifiers in combination with organic acids and the natural dyes.
  • the properties of the colorants according to the invention can be impressively improved if they contain at least one further ingredient, selected from natural waxes and natural thickeners.
  • Waxes used according to the invention can be of animal (such as beeswax) as well as of vegetable or mineral origin. Waxes of vegetable or mineral origin are preferred.
  • Waxes of vegetable or mineral origin are preferred.
  • Such waxes are, for example, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, Japanese wax and montan wax. Preferred waxes are jojoba oil and candelilla wax.
  • the waxes mentioned are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.5-10% by weight, in particular 2-5% by weight.
  • Natural thickeners for the agents according to the invention are guar gum, locust bean gum, agar agar, guar gum and alginates.
  • Natural thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are also cellulose derivatives, such as. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and Carboxy ⁇ methyl cellulose.
  • the natural thickener is preferably present in the colorants according to the invention in amounts of 1-10% by weight, in particular in amounts of 2-5% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention can be prepared by simply mixing the individual constituents by the customary processes. However, it is also possible, for example, to produce granules by the known processes. In this case, however, it is generally necessary for the agents to contain the organic thickeners mentioned above.
  • the colorants according to the invention can contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known in such preparations.
  • the colorants contain at least one surfactant, both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle.
  • Anionic surfactants can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and specially unsaturated C8-C22 carboxylic acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
  • These anionic surfactants can preferably be in solid, in particular powder form. These are preferably in amounts of 5 to 20% by weight. in particular 10 to 15% by weight.
  • nonionic surfactants are C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs.
  • the nonethoxylated compounds which are also commercially available in powder form, have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • Ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides are preferred.
  • Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride and Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • the quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.
  • Alkylamidoamines especially fatty acid amidoamines such as that
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes
  • cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers and other compounds which are stable as solids or are commercially available
  • zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers or are used as solids are preferably available as commercial products
  • anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, provided they are stable or preferably commercially available as solids
  • structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as silicone oils
  • Protein hydrolyzates in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins, Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid. Allantoin,
  • Fats and waxes such as whale, paraffins, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters.
  • Fatty acid alkanolamides
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration substances such as carbonates, especially soda. Hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • the invention also relates to the use of natural emulsifiers in amounts of 0.5-10% by weight for the production of agents based on natural dyes for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour la teinture des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux humains, selon lequel on mélange avec de l'eau un agent contenant un colorant existant à l'état naturel et 0,5 % à 10 % en poids d'un émulsifiant, on applique ce mélange sur les cheveux et l'on rince après avoir laissé agir le produit sur les cheveux pendant 20 à 60 minutes. L'invention concerne également des agents correspondants ainsi que leurs formulations.
EP96943952A 1995-12-22 1996-12-13 Procede de teinture et colorants a base naturelle Ceased EP0869768A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19548291 1995-12-22
DE19548291A DE19548291A1 (de) 1995-12-22 1995-12-22 Färbeverfahren und Färbemittel auf natürlicher Basis
PCT/EP1996/005606 WO1997023195A1 (fr) 1995-12-22 1996-12-13 Procede de teinture et colorants a base naturelle

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0869768A1 true EP0869768A1 (fr) 1998-10-14

Family

ID=7781119

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP96943952A Ceased EP0869768A1 (fr) 1995-12-22 1996-12-13 Procede de teinture et colorants a base naturelle

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0869768A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE19548291A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1997023195A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19713696C5 (de) * 1997-04-03 2004-01-15 Kpss-Kao Professional Salon Services Gmbh Verfahren zum gleichzeitigen Tönen und Waschen von menschlichen Haaren
EP0884330A1 (fr) 1997-06-12 1998-12-16 Meyhall AG Méthode de production de farine de guar pure
DE102004037105A1 (de) * 2004-07-30 2005-01-13 Wella Ag Mehrkomponenten-Kit und Verfahren zum Färben von Keratinfasern
EP2787964A1 (fr) 2011-12-09 2014-10-15 L'Oréal Composition à base de poudre de plante(s) produisant de l'indigo et d'huile(s) et/ou de beurre(s), et procédé de teinture de cheveux à l'aide de ladite composition
FR3004941B1 (fr) 2013-04-26 2015-05-22 Oreal Composition a base de poudre de henne ou d'indigo avec une pre-dispersion d'huile, procede de coloration capillaire mettant en oeuvre cette composition

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2510404A1 (fr) * 1981-08-03 1983-02-04 Fabre Sa Pierre Preparation cosmetique extemporanee a pouvoir colorant, en particulier a usage capillaire
LU86422A1 (fr) * 1986-05-07 1987-12-16 Oreal Procede de teinture des cheveux humains avec la brasiline ou son derive hydroxyle et compositions mises en oeuvre
DE59400008D1 (de) * 1993-06-25 1995-09-07 Goldwell Gmbh Mittel zum Färben und Blondieren von menschlichen Haaren und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung.

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO9723195A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE19548291A1 (de) 1997-06-26
WO1997023195A1 (fr) 1997-07-03

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