EP0799020A1

EP0799020A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with flavonoids

Info

Publication number: EP0799020A1
Application number: EP95941094A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ghita LANZENDÖRFER; Franz STÄB; Sven Untiedt
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 1994-12-13
Filing date: 1995-12-12
Publication date: 1997-10-08
Also published as: WO1996018379A1; ATE218059T1; US6121243A; WO1996018382A1; DE59510219D1; EP1201227A3; EP1300138A2; JPH10510523A; EP0716847A1; JPH10510522A; US20090131340A1; US6423747B1; ATE240092T1; EP0799023A1; DE29522371U1; DE29522375U1; EP0799023B1; US20020160965A1; US5952373A; JPH08259421A

Abstract

Cosmetic and dermatological compositions for the treatment or prophylaxis of hyper-reactive or deficient, hypoactive skin, contain active agents (I) which are at least one flavonoid or a combination of flavonoid(s) with cinnamic acid derivative(s) and optionally other conventional active agents. <??>Cosmetic and dermatological compositions for the treatment or prophylaxis of hyper-reactive or deficient, hypoactive skin, contain active agents (I) which are at least one flavonoid or a combination of flavonoid(s) with cinnamic acid derivative(s) and optionally at least one of antioxidants, endogenous energy source metabolites, endogenous enzymatic antioxidant systems or their synthetic derivatives (mimics), antimicrobial or antiviral agents and other conventional active agents.

Description

description

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with flavonoids

The present invention relates in particular to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing flavonoids, their glycosides and, if appropriate, their combinations with cinnamic acid derivatives or antioxidants.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called (JVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole. It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is to be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against the rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives of dibenzoylmethane are therefore used, the photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) of which is insufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly free radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule. UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.

To prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative effect, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The effect of solar radiation on the skin is, besides the formation of light swellings and tanning, mainly caused by the UVB area, a slow and progressive degradation of the connective tissue under the epidermis, caused by the longer-wave area of UVA sunlight, in which the elastic areas are exposed to radiation and strengthening fibers are destroyed. The weakening strength of the connective tissue leads to increased wrinkling and in extreme cases can lead to so-called "farmer's skin" or actinic keratosis. Wrinkles, wrinkles and dry skin that occur before the actual biological age due to environmental influences and the symptom of "premature skin aging" are considered as cosmetic undesirable " are.

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, editors: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berke- ley / California), oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed.

The object of the invention was therefore to provide cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, but also normal skin exposed to the sun.

Furthermore, the lips are an area of the face, which due to its structure and exposure is strongly exposed to and influenced by external influences. The naturally red color of the lips stems from the fact that lip skin, in contrast to "normal" skin, is much thinner, sweat and sebum glands are also missing. Melanin is significantly less present. The lack of some of the natural protection of the skin leads to lips being underneath Cold, heat and solar radiation are more exposed than normal skin, so protection and care of the lips are necessary in order to maintain a smooth, rosy appearance of the lips.If the lips were not adequately protected during exposure, the symptoms mentioned above can be seen Relief and elimination can also be seen as a cosmetic concern.

In addition, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "stinging potential" and preparations against non-specific non-pathological itching.

The skin, especially the epidermis, as a barrier organ of the human organism, is particularly exposed to external influences. According to today's scientific understanding, the skin represents an immunological organ, which as an immunocompetent peripheral compartment plays its own role in inductive, effective and regulative immune processes of the whole organism.

The epidermis is rich with nerves and nerve end devices such as Vater-Pacini lamellar bodies, Merkel-cell-neurite complexes and free ones Nerve endings equipped for pain, cold, warmth and itching.

In people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, a neurosensory phenomenon called "stinging" (<engl.> "To sting" = injure, burn, pain) can be observed. This "sensitive skin" differs fundamentally from "dry skin" with thickened and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" to sensitive skin are reddening, tension and burning of the skin as well as itching.

Typical disturbing neurosensory phenomena associated with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" are reddening of the skin, tingling, tingling, tensing and burning of the skin and itching. By stimulating environmental conditions e.g. Massage, surfactant, weather influences such as sun, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, heat radiation and UV radiation, e.g. the sun.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977) P.J. Frosch and A.M. Kligman describe a method for estimating the "stinging potential" of topically administered substances. As positive substances, e.g. Lactic acid and pyruvic acid are used. When measured using this method, however, amino acids, in particular glycine, were also found to be neurosensory active (such substances are called "Stinger").

According to previous knowledge, such a sensitivity to very specific substances occurs individually in different ways. This means that a person who experiences "stinging effects" when in contact with a substance is very likely to be repeated with every further contact experience. Contact with other "Stingers" can just as easily be without any reaction.

The itching in atopic skin is to be regarded as a neurosensory phenomenon, as well as itching in skin diseases, which is only a symptom of these diseases and vice versa but also unspecific, i.e. without a clinical finding of a skin disorder, infection or irritation. Although unspecific itching is a first sign of a possible hidden general illness, it can also be triggered by stress or other environmental influences.

Furthermore, itching can occur without a clearly recognizable reason, preferably in more sensitive people.

"Stinging" phenomena can therefore generally be regarded as disorders to be treated cosmetically. Severe itching, on the other hand, particularly severe itching of the skin that occurs in atopy, can also be described as a more serious dermatological disorder, while itching that occurs during stinging or nonspecifically without a disease can also be regarded as a cosmetically treatable disorder.

Furthermore, the problem of sensitive or sensitive skin is increasing. On the one hand, this is often characterized by an increased susceptibility to stinging, but also by other criteria such as: skin prone to reddening, skin of type I or II, known allergy, a dermatological underlying disease such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, known intolerance to cosmetic Products, the subjective feeling of lack of fat and moisture content of the skin.

For the further characterization of sensitive skin, a "permeable" barrier is discussed, which is reflected in an increased TEWL. For barrier regeneration, occlusive or lipid-substituting ones are used Products recommended that lower the TEWL after application. P.Elias even describes various lipid mixtures that cause barrier regeneration on mouse skin that has been damaged with acetone. The topical application of RRR-a-tocopherol has also been shown to improve the skin barrier.

If human hair is to be dyed permanently, in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing processes can be considered. In oxidative hair dyeing, the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, more rarely diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.

It is usually assumed that, in addition to the coloring effect, the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair.

The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.

Derivatives of thioglycolic acid are used in the permanent wave treatment of hair, which reduces the S-S bond of keratin and thus enables the hair to be deformed. Then the S-S bonds must be closed again by a so-called strengthener so that the deformation is retained. The permanent wave treatment takes place in an alkaline, neutral or acidic environment, in which the hair and scalp swell and react very sensitively.

It is also known that the scalp is also influenced during the dyeing process and during the perm. The skin keratin is attacked as well as the hair keratin. The skin of the hands can also be affected, because despite the recommended precautionary measures taken by the manufacturers of these products Gloves are worn or your hands come into contact with them when you rinse out the colors or permanent wave liquid.

Furthermore, hair and scalp form a part of the body that is exposed to a considerable amount of UV radiation due to its position when staying outdoors. So far there are only a few products that take hair protection into account. Products that are applied to the hair and scalp after exposure to light, are known to alleviate the negative effects and thus keep the hair shiny and smooth, and to prevent or relieve scalp dandruff.

Antioxidants are substances which prevent oxidation processes or which prevent the autoxidation of fats containing unsaturated compounds. Antioxidants which are also used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmacy are, for example, α-tocopherol, in particular in the form of α-tocopheryiacetate, sesamol, bile acid derivatives, butylated hydroxyanisole and butylated hydroxytoluene.

Antioxidants or radical scavengers can also be incorporated into cosmetic formulations for the reason of preventing such reactions.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. It has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative action in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here still falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

An object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, active ingredients or cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such active ingredients should be made available, the use of which at least reduces, if not completely prevents, damage to the skin and / or hair by oxidative influence. Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic preparations which, before or after treatment of the hair with hair dye preparations or permanent wave products, even those containing strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, counteract their damaging oxidizing action.

In particular, active ingredients and preparations containing such active ingredients should be made available for cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of the appearance of the "stinging".

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that preparations and combinations of active substances according to the invention containing effective amounts of substances selected from the group of flavonoids or their glycosides alone or their combination with substances from the group of cinnamic acid derivatives or hydroxycinnamic acids remedies the disadvantages of the prior art .

The above objects are achieved according to the invention.

The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations

a) a content of one or more compounds from the group of flavonoids or with

b) a content of an active ingredient combination comprising a compound or more compounds selected from the group of flavonoids in combination with a compound or more compounds selected from the group of cinnamic acid derivatives and

c) optionally an additional content of one or more compounds from the group of antioxidants. Active ingredient combinations b), their use and preparations containing them are preferred.

Topical preparations are preferred.

The flavonoids according to the invention are also referred to below with A), the cinnamic acid derivatives according to the invention also with B) and the antioxidants according to the invention also with C).

Preferred flavonoids according to the invention are, for example, hydroxylated flavones, flavanones, isoflavones or chalcones and in each case also their glycosides, but also these non-hydroxylated basic structures or parent substances.

According to the invention, the flavonoids A) are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formulas

and

where Zi - Z ₅ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH and O-alkyl, where the alkyl groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1-18 C atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of the mono-, di - And oligoglycoside residues or H can represent. Gly residues can be, for example, the residues specified for Gly1-Gly 3. Gly residues can be, for example, the residues specified for Glyi-Gly3.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to select the flavonoid (s) A) from the group quercitin, chrysin, kaempferol, myricetin, apigenin, naringenin, hesperitin, morin, fisetin, vitexin, isovitexin, flavon and genistein.

It is also advantageous to choose the flavone glycosides A) from the group of rutin, rhamnetin, luteolin, naringin, hesperidin, phloridzin, diosmin, neohesperidin-dihydrochalcone.

Chrysin, Naringin, Hesperidin, Naringenin, Hesperetin, Morin, Phloridzin, Diosmin, Neohesperidin-Dihydrochalkon, Flavon are particularly preferred.

Further flavonoids A) according to the invention are advantageously selected from the group of substances with the generic structural formulas:

such as

where Zi - Z5 have the meaning given above and represent Glyi, Gly2 and Gly 3 monoglycoside residues.

Gly _1t Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably _selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals or pentosyl radicals. Residues such as allosyl, altrosyl, apiosyl, arabinosyl, ascorbinyl, biosidyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, glucosyl, glucoronidyl, idosyl, mannosyl, talosyl, dulcityl, fructosyl, mannityl, rhamnosyl, ribosyl, sorbityl and xylosyl are advantageous to use. It is particularly advantageous to use rhamnosyl residues or glucosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to select the flavone glycoside (s) from the group alpha-glucosylrutin, alpha-glucosylmyrictrin, alpha-glucosylisoquercitrin and alpha-glucosylquercitrin.

In addition, compounds such as alpha-glycosyl rutin, alpha glycosyl hesperidine, alpha glycosyl naringin, alpha mannosyl rutin, alpha rhamnosyl rutin are particularly preferred.

It may also be advantageous to choose one or more of the Glyi, Gly ₂ , Gly ₃ radicals from the group of the oligo- or poly-a- or β-glycosidic compounds, or from the group of the sugar acids or sugar esters. Likewise, one or more Glyi, Gly ₂ , Gly ₃ residues can be selected from the group of substituted sugars, such as N-acetylglucosamine. It can also be of advantage to use flavonoids A) whose glycoside residue is bonded to 07, 04 ^' , 03 ^' or 05 ^' via phenolic OH functions.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to use flavonoids A) and their glycosides, the phenolic OH function of which is freely available at 09 (so-called chalcones). From this group it is particularly advantageous to use neohesperidine dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred flavonoids A) are: chrysin, naringin, hesperidin, naringenin, hesperetin, morin, phloridzin, diosmin, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, flavone and in particular alpha-glucosylrutin of the formula:

In addition, it may be advantageous to use commercially available flavonoid-containing plant extracts for the purposes of the invention. These can be aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic extracts and dry extracts obtained by the usual methods. The following have proven to be particularly advantageous: citrus fruit peel or kernel extract (e.g. Citricidal / Synthapharm), soy extract (e.g. Phytodermin / Chem. Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH), Sophora Japonica extract (e.g. B. Sophorine / Solabia), women's thistle extract (e.g. Psoralen Silymarin / Mani GmbH Chemical Products), cat paw blossom extract, spinach extract and a mixed plant extract of passion flowers, black currants and vine leaves (AE Complex from Solabia), Calendula Extract (Pot Marigold AMI watersoluble / Alban Muller).

Suitable cinnamic acid derivatives are e.g. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives, the derivatives e.g. which can be defined below.

According to the invention, cinnamic acid derivatives of the general formula can preferably be used

and / or effective amounts of cinnamic acid derivatives of the general formula

are used, the groups X, Y and R being able to be selected independently of one another from the group H, branched or unbranched alkyl having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The acids or their salts can be used, preferably the physiologically tolerable salts, for example water-soluble salts (sodium, potassium salts).

Ferulic acid is regarded as a particularly advantageous cinnamic acid derivative for the purposes of the present invention. Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, caffeic acid-3-methyl ether) is due to the structural formula

respectively.

characterized. It is widespread in plants and comes e.g. in beets, cereals and the milk juice of the umbelliferae Ferula asafoetida and Ferula nartex. Under normal conditions, the E form is a colorless, crystalline solid, and under normal conditions, the Z form is a yellowish oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to using E-ferulic acid. However, it may also be advantageous to use Z-ferulic acid or any mixtures of E- and Z-ferulic acid.

Another derivative of cinnamic acid preferred according to the invention is caffeic acid, which is distinguished by its structure

distinguished. It is a widely used plant acid and e.g. contained in coffee, tobacco, poppy seeds and dandelions.

It may also be advantageous to use plant extracts containing cinnamic acid derivatives according to the invention, in particular ferulic acid and / or caffeic acid.

The term "derivatives of caffeic acid or ferulic acid" means their cosmetically or pharmacologically acceptable esters, salts and base adducts, in particular those as described above for the cinnamic acid derivatives.

Preferred combinations according to the invention are combinations of one or more substances from the group of the flavonoids listed above or combinations of one or more representatives of the flavonoids with a derivative of cinnamic acid or the combination with several cinnamic acid derivatives.

The weight ratio of the cinnamic acid derivatives to the flavonoid (s) is advantageously 25: 1 to 1:25, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, particularly preferably about 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The combinations of flavonoids, flavonglucosides or flavonoid-containing plant extracts with ferulic acid and the combination of synthetically modified, in particular glycosylated flavonoids such as alpha-glucosylrutin with cinnamic acid derivatives are particularly preferred according to the invention.

Preparations with combinations b) which contain alpha-glucocsylrutin and / or ferulic acid are particularly preferred. The compounds of group A or of the combination of the active compounds A) and B) can be present as the sole active compounds in the preparations according to the invention.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight , based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more substances A) according to the invention or the combination of A) and B).

In addition to the active ingredients A) or the combination of A) and B), the preparations according to the invention can preferably also have an antioxidant or more antioxidants C).

The antioxidants C) according to the invention can be selected particularly advantageously from the group of tocopherols and their derivatives. The tocopherols, also called vitamin E, are derived from the main body tocol ((2-methyl-2- (4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl) chroman-6-ol). The most common and most important tocopherol, of course, comes from the configuration 2R, 4'R, 8'R. It is sometimes called RRR-α-tocopherol.

The tocopherol derivatives preferred according to the invention are the α-tocopherol and its esters, in particular the α-tocopheryl acetate. Esters of acids with 2 to 18, in particular 2 to 8, carbon atoms are preferred.

It is also advantageous antioxidants C) from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine suffoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable

Dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid,

Bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their

Derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid,

Linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-

Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin, butylated hydroxytoluene,

Butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure,

Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO.)

Selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances mentioned.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants C) (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for prophylaxis and / or for the treatment of the skin in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a prophylaxis and / or treatment in the sense of cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics. They preferably contain 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the Total weight, one or more substances A) according to the invention or the combination of A) and B).

It is advantageous according to the invention to use combinations of several substances according to the invention, in particular if at least one of the components is selected from the group of the flavonoids or their glucosides and the cinnamic acid derivatives.

It is particularly advantageous to use combinations of at least one compound from the flavonoids A) or their derivatives, at least one compound from the cinnamic acid derivatives B) and vitamin E or its derivatives C).

For use, the substances or preparations according to the invention containing such substances, preferably combinations of flavonoids or their derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives and, if appropriate, antioxidants are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics or dermatics.

The document JP-OS Hei-06-138,941 describes oral preparations containing water-soluble glycosides, which can be selected, for example, from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyrictrin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin and α-glucosylquercitrin. JP-OS Hei-04- 363,395 describes a process for preventing the decomposition of perfume components, which is characterized, inter alia, by the addition of α-glucosylrutin to the corresponding preparations. Furthermore, the documents EP-OS 586 303 and EP-OS 595 694 describe the use of flavonoids as antioxidants or light protection substances in cosmetics. Furthermore, it is known from US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E in cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations. However, the use of vitamin E and its derivatives according to the invention has not been suggested by the prior art.

However, there is no indication in these documents which could point in the direction of the present invention. It was therefore not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the active substances and active substance combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing them

better work against aging better protection for lips give better protection of the skin and hair against photoreactions better protect hair and scalp against hair coloring and perms would protect sensitive skin better against unpleasant stinging against unspecific itching

as the active ingredients, combinations of active ingredients and preparations of the prior art.

According to the invention, therefore, are the use of the active substances or combinations of active substances according to the invention for combating and / or prophylaxis of skin aging and inflammatory reactions caused by oxidative stress, and the effects and uses indicated above and below.

The invention therefore also relates to the use of the cosmetic and dermatological preparations

a) a content of one or more compounds from the group of flavonoids

or with

b) a content of an active ingredient combination containing one or more compounds selected from the group of flavonoids A) in combination with one or more compounds selected from the group of cinnamic acid derivatives and c) if appropriate, an additional content of one or more compounds from the group of antioxidants for the treatment and prophylactic treatment of skin aging, for the pretreatment or aftertreatment of the hair or the scalp or the hair root area, in particular before or after the hair treatment, for example in the hair coloring or Perm, to protect the lips, in particular from exogenous noxae, to treat and prophylactically treat stinging or non-specific itching, to stabilize or restore the epidermal barrier function, to reduce or prevent damage to the skin and hair by oxidative influences, to protect the skin or hair against photoreactions and for the treatment or prophylactic treatment of skin aging and inflammatory reactions caused by oxidative stress.

Topical application is preferred for this use.

The cosmetic or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual for these uses and e.g. for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. They preferably contain 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent, on the active substances according to the invention or their combinations of active substances.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferably applied in a sufficient amount to the skin and / or the hair for cosmetics.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. For example, they can be a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, multiple emulsions, for example of the water- in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also beneficial to present the active compound combinations according to the invention in encapsulated form, for example in collagen matrices and other customary encapsulation materials, for example in the form of cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated. In particular, wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08282 have proven to be favorable.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active compound combinations according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

The use of active ingredient combinations according to the invention for protecting the skin and / or hair from oxidative stress is therefore also regarded as an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, in particular this use of the active ingredient combinations according to the invention in shampoos and wash formulations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

In particular, the preparations according to the invention can also contain antioxidants.

According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of

Amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives,

Imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine,

D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid),

Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl

, Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides,

Lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.

Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-,

Heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid,

Malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin,

EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives

(e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.

Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and

Derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives,

Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and their derivatives,

Mannose and its derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO-) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts , Esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds), which are not identical to the active ingredient combinations according to the invention, in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1 - 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the said fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

natural, synthetic and / or partially synthetic oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural synthetic and / or partially synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof

saturated compounds such as hydrocarbons of natural or synthetic origin (petroleum jelly, squalane)

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and whose ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose , particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also of types ETD (easy-to-disperse) 2001, 2020, 2050 , individually or in any combination with each other.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emuigator, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oleo-alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously. Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. , in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

If the emulsions according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentiester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Examples of advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are: Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanoiammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It can also be advantageous to combine active ingredients according to the invention with UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The amounts used for the UVB combination can be used.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation. The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compounds according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter. Filters as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substances according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used when rinsing the hair before or after the shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after the coloring or discoloration of the Hair is applied to preparations for blow-drying or pickling hair, preparations for coloring or decolouring, to a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or to permanent waving agents.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations contain active substances and auxiliaries as are usually used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment. Preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments serve as auxiliary substances. elements whose task it is to dye the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself, electrophoresis, substances for greasing the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, electrolytes are understood to mean water-soluble alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts, it being necessary to ensure that these salts are pharmaceutical or distinguish cosmetic harmlessness.

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampoo contain preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or else mixtures of such substances, active substances according to the invention in an aqueous medium and auxiliaries as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration of between 1% and 50% by weight.

Are the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a lotion that is rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent waving, these are e.g. around aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them. A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution represents and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as active ingredient combinations according to the invention in effective concentration. The amount of the polymers used is, for example, between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, which contain active ingredients according to the invention, can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. In addition to water, non-ionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or also mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of active compound combinations according to the invention and solvents conventionally used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The amount of the active compounds according to the invention in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent. Aqueous cosmetic detergents according to the invention or low-water or water-free detergent concentrations intended for aqueous cleaning can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example

conventional soaps, e.g. Fatty acid salts of sodium

Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates

Sulfoacetates

Sulfobetaines

Sarcosinate

Amidosulfobetaines

Sulfosuccinates

Sulfosuccinic acid semiesters

Alkyl ether carboxylates

Protein fatty acid condensates

Alkyl betaines and amido betaines

Fatty acid alkanolamides

Polyglycol ether derivatives

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to the active compounds according to the invention, they preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries of the kind normally used for this purpose. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic formulations which are shampoos s ^t hal¬ th preferably adjacent an effective content of novel active compounds thereof, an inventive electrolytes and auxiliaries as are customarily used for this purpose at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof, if necessary. The surface-active substance can be in a Concentration between 1 wt .-% and 94 wt .-% are present in the shampoo.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

The present invention also encompasses a cosmetic method for protecting the skin and hair from oxidative or photooxidative processes, which is characterized in that a cosmetic agent which contains an effective concentration of active compounds according to the invention is applied to the skin or hair in a sufficient amount applies.

The present invention also includes a method for protecting cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or photo-oxidation, these preparations being e.g. Represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, and also make-up products such as e.g. Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all other cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to oxidation or photooxidation during storage, characterized in that that the cosmetic preparations have an effective content of active ingredients according to the invention.

The amount of active compounds according to the invention in these preparations is preferably 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.01% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the preparations according to the invention, which is characterized in that Active ingredients according to the invention are incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological logical formulations in a manner known per se.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it.

example 1

W / O cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 10.00

Petrolatum 4, 00

Wool wax alcohol 1.00

PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00

Aluminum stearate 0.40

Rutin 0.50

Ferulic acid 0.50

Glycerin 2.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 2

W / O lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil 20.00

Petrolatum 4.00

Glucose Seqiisostearate 2.00

Aluminum stearate 0.40

Naringin 1, 00

Ferulic acid 0.25 Vitamin E acetate 2.00

Vitamin C palmitate 0.20

Glycerin 5.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 3

O / W lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil 8.00

Isopropyl palmitate 3.00

Petrolatum 4.00,

Cetearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG-40 castor oil 0.50

Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.40

Hesperidin 0.50

Naringin 0.20

Ferulic acid 0.25

Glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20

Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 4

O / W cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil 7.00

Avocado oil 4.00

Glyceryl monostearate 2.00

Sodium stearate 1, 00

Caffeic acid 0.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.20

Sodium phytate 1, 00

Titanium dioxide 1.00 Sodium lactate 3.00

Glycerin 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 5

Lip balm

% By weight

Hydrogenated castor oil 4.00

Ceresin 8.00

Beeswax 4.00

Carnauba wax 2.00

Petrolatum 40.00 α-glucosyl hesperidin 1.00 β-carotene 0.10

Caffeic acid 0.30

Paraffin oil, pigments and dyes ad 100.00

Example 6

Gel containing liposomes

% By weight

Lecithin 6.00

Ski butter 3.00

Ferulic acid 0.50

Chrysin 0.10

Vitamin A palmitate 0.20

Biotin 0.08

Sodium citrate 0.50

Glycine 0.20

Urea 0.20

Sodium PCA 0.50 Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00

Xanthan gum 1, 40

Sorbitol 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 7

Hair treatment

% By weight

Paraffin oil 3.00

Almond oil 3.00

Cetostearyl alcohol 5.00

PEG - 40 castor oil 1, 00

Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50

Sorbitol 5.00

Glycerin 5.00

Ferulic acid 0.50

Citricidal 0.80

Dilauryl thiodipropionate 0.05

L-arginine 0.10

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Example 8

Massage cream

% By weight

Stearyl alcohol 2.00

Petrolatum 4.00

Dimethicone 2.00

Isopropyl palmitate 6.00

Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2.00

Ferulic acid 0.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.30

Glycerin 3.00

Water, preservatives and perfume ad 100.00

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with

a) a content of one or more compounds from the group of flavonoids or with

c) optionally an additional content of one or more compounds from the group of antioxidants.

2. Use of the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to claim 1 with

a) a content of one or more compounds from the group of flavonoids

or with

b) a content of an active ingredient combination containing one or more compounds selected from the group of flavonoids A) in combination with one or more compounds selected from the group of cinnamic acid derivatives and

c) if appropriate, an additional content of one or more compounds from the group of antioxidants for the treatment and prophylactic treatment of skin aging, for the pretreatment or aftertreatment of the hair or the scalp or the hair root area, in particular before or after the hair treatment, for example in the hair coloring or perm, to protect the lips especially from exogenous noxious agents, to treat and prophylactically treat stinging or non-specific itching, to stabilize or restore the epidermal barrier function, to reduce or prevent damage to the skin and hair by oxidative influences, to protect the Skin or hair against photoreactions and for the treatment or prophylactic treatment of skin aging and inflammatory reactions caused by oxidative stress.

3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain one or more compounds from the group of the flavonoids quercitin, chrysin, kaempferol, myricetin, apigenin, naringenin, hesperitin, morin, fisetin, vitexin, isovitexin, flavon, genistein, rutin, rhamnetin , luteolin, naringin, hesperidin, phloridzin, diosmin, Neophesperidin-Dihydrochalkan, alpha-glucosylrutin, alpha-Glucosylmytrictrin, alpha-Gisoquercitrintin and alpha-Glucosylquercitrin, alpha-glycosyl rutin, alpha-glycosyl hesperidin, alpha-glycosyl naringin, alpha Mannosylrutin, alpha-Rhamnosylrutin contain.

4. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain the combination b).

5. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain one or more hydroxycinnamic acids.

6. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that cinnamic acid derivatives of the general formula

and / or effective amounts of cinnamic acid derivatives of the general formula

are used, the groups X, Y and R being able to be selected independently of one another from the group H, branched or unbranched alkyl having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

7. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain caffeic acid and / or ferulic acid.

8. Preparations with combinations b) which contain alpha-glucosylrutin and / or ferulic acid.