EP0737767B1 - Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine - Google Patents
Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0737767B1 EP0737767B1 EP95420259A EP95420259A EP0737767B1 EP 0737767 B1 EP0737767 B1 EP 0737767B1 EP 95420259 A EP95420259 A EP 95420259A EP 95420259 A EP95420259 A EP 95420259A EP 0737767 B1 EP0737767 B1 EP 0737767B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- jacquard
- density
- row
- knitting machine
- knitted fabric
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 title claims description 15
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 10
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 abstract description 13
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000009508 confectionery Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000033764 rhythmic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
- D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2505/00—Industrial
- D10B2505/08—Upholstery, mattresses
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an improvement made to Jacquard knits made on a circular double-knitted loom needle bed usable in particular as covering materials for seats, walls ..., especially in the interior trim sector vehicles (see GB-A-2 263 485).
- It relates more particularly to a new type of knitting obtained on a circular knitting loom, double needle bed.
- Such knitting looms consist essentially of a tray horizontal and a vertical cylinder, one of these, usually the cylinder (also called vertical needle), which allows you to select the needles according to a predetermined rhythm according to the drawings which one wish to achieve.
- the horizontal bed or tray has a combined cam track as for Interloc trades, capable of selecting the needles so that each row of the wrong side, made with the thread forming the right side, either obtained on two successive falls. Therefore, when we make a Jacquard three colors, each row of knitting is done by making a selection from the cylinder drawing, so that all the needles work to make a row of knitting which is therefore done from three scraps, while the wrong side which is knitted on the needles of the tray has a structure such that each row formed with the same wires that those forming the drawing is carried out on two successive falls, this which therefore results in a density of this reverse 1.5 times that of the place.
- each row is made from of four falls, the reverse made with the needles of the tray being always made on two successive falls, which leads, in such a case, to a density of rows of stitches on the reverse double that obtained from the right side.
- the new Jacquard knit three or four colors according to the invention is characterized in that the knitting weave for producing the reverse side is unstructured compared to a conventional weave, the article obtained having the same density of stitches on the reverse with respect to the place in the case of a Jacquard four colors and, in the case of a Jacquard three colors, a density equal to 0.75 times that of the place.
- the destructuring is obtained by leveling the loom every other needle, thereby halving the number of columns of meshes on this face and therefore by two the density of meshes.
- the plate armor is performed by staggering selecting one needle out of four, allowing to halve the number of rows, so also the density of stitches by two.
- Such a staggered selection of needles can be obtained by making the armor of the plate on four cam tracks. He could also be considered to carry out such a selection by means of a Jacquard system associated with the tray.
- Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the structure of a knitted fabric Jacquard three and four classic colors.
- Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 illustrate four Jacquard knits produced according to the invention, Figures 3 and 4 corresponding to a knitted fabric Jacquard three colors and Figures 5 and 6 to a Jacquard knit four colors.
- the needles are selected so that the falls (1,2,3) give a row, and the falls (4,5,6) a second row.
- the density of the reverse side is one and a half times greater than that of the front panel.
- Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the structure of a Jacquard three knit colors obtained in accordance with the invention.
- the falls (1) and (2) give a first row, (3) and (4) a second row, (5) and (6) a third row.
- Such an article presents, compared to that illustrated in FIG. 1, a density in column of meshes divided by two.
- FIG. 4 illustrates the rebalancing of a knitted fabric by destructuring by plate knitting with four cam paths or by selection Jacquard.
- the armor ratio is twelve falls, four rows in the cylinder forming the Jacquard face side corresponding to only three rows on the tray.
- Figure 5 illustrates a four-color Jacquard knit produced in accordance with the invention, the destructuring on the reverse side being obtained by knitting on the plate on four cam paths or by Jacquard selection.
- the falls (1,2,3 and 4) give a row to the cylinder and also a row on the tray, the mesh density being therefore identical on reverse and place.
- Figure 6 illustrates the realization of a Jacquard four colors whose destructuring of the reverse side is obtained by planing of the plate of a needle on two.
- the falls (1,2,3,4) give a row to the cylinder
- the falls (1) and (2) giving as for a first row to the plateau and the falls (3) and (4) a second row.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Machines (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Looms (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention a trait à un perfectionnement apporté aux tricots Jacquard réalisés sur un métier circulaire à mailles cueillies double fonture utilisables notamment comme matériaux de revêtement de sièges, parois ..., notamment dans le secteur du garnissage de l'intérieur de véhicules (voir GB-A-2 263 485).The present invention relates to an improvement made to Jacquard knits made on a circular double-knitted loom needle bed usable in particular as covering materials for seats, walls ..., especially in the interior trim sector vehicles (see GB-A-2 263 485).
Elle a trait plus particulièrement à un nouveau type de tricot obtenu sur un métier à tricoter circulaire, double fonture.It relates more particularly to a new type of knitting obtained on a circular knitting loom, double needle bed.
De tels métiers à tricoter se composent essentiellement d'un plateau horizontal et d'un cylindre vertical, l'un de ces éléments, en général le cylindre (désigné également fonture verticale), qui permet de sélectionner les aiguilles selon un rythme prédéterminé fonction des dessins que l'on souhaite réaliser.Such knitting looms consist essentially of a tray horizontal and a vertical cylinder, one of these, usually the cylinder (also called vertical needle), which allows you to select the needles according to a predetermined rhythm according to the drawings which one wish to achieve.
La fonture horizontale ou plateau a un chemin de cames combiné comme pour les métiers Interloc, capable de sélectionner les aiguilles de telle sorte que chaque rangée de la face envers, réalisée avec le fil formant la face endroit, soit obtenue sur deux chutes successives. Par suite, lorsque l'on réalise un Jacquard trois couleurs, chaque rangée de tricot est réalisée en effectuant une sélection du dessin au cylindre, de telle sorte que toutes les aiguilles travaillent pour réaliser une rangée de tricot qui est donc faite à partir de trois chutes, alors que l'envers qui est tricoté sur les aiguilles du plateau a une structure telle que chaque rangée formée avec les mêmes fils que ceux formant le dessin est réalisée sur deux chutes successives, ce qui entraíne donc une densité de cet envers 1,5 fois celle de l'endroit. The horizontal bed or tray has a combined cam track as for Interloc trades, capable of selecting the needles so that each row of the wrong side, made with the thread forming the right side, either obtained on two successive falls. Therefore, when we make a Jacquard three colors, each row of knitting is done by making a selection from the cylinder drawing, so that all the needles work to make a row of knitting which is therefore done from three scraps, while the wrong side which is knitted on the needles of the tray has a structure such that each row formed with the same wires that those forming the drawing is carried out on two successive falls, this which therefore results in a density of this reverse 1.5 times that of the place.
Dans le cas de Jacquard quatre couleurs, chaque rangée est réalisée à partir de quatre chutes, l'envers réalisé avec les aiguilles du plateau étant toujours réalisé sur deux chutes successives, ce qui conduit, dans un tel cas, à une densité de rangées de mailles sur l'envers double de celle obtenue sur l'endroit.In the case of Jacquard four colors, each row is made from of four falls, the reverse made with the needles of the tray being always made on two successive falls, which leads, in such a case, to a density of rows of stitches on the reverse double that obtained from the right side.
Cette densité plus importante sur l'envers que sur l'endroit, pose un certain nombre de problèmes, notamment en ce qui concerne la tenue du tricot lors de sa confection, chaque maille de la face envers étant plus petite donc plus fragile, et augmente les risques de probabilité que lors de la couture, l'aiguille détériore une maille.This higher density on the reverse than on the right side poses a certain number of problems, in particular as regards the behavior of the knit during its confection, each mesh on the reverse side being smaller therefore more fragile, and increases the likelihood that the needle will deteriorate when sewing mesh.
Or on a trouvé, et c'est ce qui fait l'objet de la présente invention, qu'il était possible de réaliser des tricots Jacquard trois ou quatre couleurs, qui permettent de résoudre ce problème.Now it has been found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible to make Jacquard knits three or four colors, which allow solve this problem.
D'une manière générale, le nouveau tricot Jacquard trois ou quatre couleurs conforme à l'invention, se caractérise en ce que l'armure de tricotage pour réaliser la face envers est déstructurée par rapport à une armure conventionnelle, l'article obtenu présentant la même densité de mailles sur l'envers par rapport à l'endroit dans le cas d'un Jacquard quatre couleurs et, dans le cas d'un Jacquard trois couleurs, une densité égale à 0,75 fois celle de l'endroit.In general, the new Jacquard knit three or four colors according to the invention, is characterized in that the knitting weave for producing the reverse side is unstructured compared to a conventional weave, the article obtained having the same density of stitches on the reverse with respect to the place in the case of a Jacquard four colors and, in the case of a Jacquard three colors, a density equal to 0.75 times that of the place.
Selon une première forme de réalisation, la destructuration est obtenue en déjaugeant le métier une aiguille sur deux, permettant ainsi de diviser par deux le nombre de colonnes de mailles sur cette face et donc par deux la densité de mailles. According to a first embodiment, the destructuring is obtained by leveling the loom every other needle, thereby halving the number of columns of meshes on this face and therefore by two the density of meshes.
Selon une autre forme de réalisation, l'armure du plateau est réalisée en sélectionnant en quinconce une aiguille sur quatre, permettant de diviser par deux le nombre de rangées, donc également la densité de mailles par deux.According to another embodiment, the plate armor is performed by staggering selecting one needle out of four, allowing to halve the number of rows, so also the density of stitches by two.
Une telle sélection en quinconce des aiguilles peut être obtenue en réalisant l'armure du plateau sur quatre chemins de cames. Il pourrait également être envisagé de réaliser une telle sélection au moyen d'un système Jacquard associé au plateau.Such a staggered selection of needles can be obtained by making the armor of the plate on four cam tracks. He could also be considered to carry out such a selection by means of a Jacquard system associated with the tray.
L'invention et les avantages qu'elle apporte seront cependant mieux compris grâce aux exemples de réalisation donnés ci-après à titre indicatif mais non limitatif, exemples illustrés par les schémas annexés qui sont des représentations graphiques conventionnelles de tricot Jacquard double fonture, le cylindre étant référencé (C) et le plateau (P).The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the example embodiments given below for information but not limiting, examples illustrated by the appended diagrams which are conventional graphic representations of double Jacquard knitting bed, the cylinder being referenced (C) and the plate (P).
Dans ces schémas, les figures 1 et 2 illustrent la structure d'un tricot Jacquard trois et quatre couleurs classiques.In these diagrams, Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the structure of a knitted fabric Jacquard three and four classic colors.
Les figures 3, 4, 5 et 6 illustrent quatre tricots Jacquard réalisés conformément à l'invention, les figures 3 et 4 correspondant à un tricot Jacquard trois couleurs et les figures 5 et 6 à un tricot Jacquard quatre couleurs.Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 illustrate four Jacquard knits produced according to the invention, Figures 3 and 4 corresponding to a knitted fabric Jacquard three colors and Figures 5 and 6 to a Jacquard knit four colors.
En se reportant aux figures 1 et 2, on constate que pour réaliser un Jacquard conventionnel trois ou quatre couleurs, que le travail des fils est le suivant.Referring to Figures 1 and 2, we see that to achieve a Conventional Jacquard three or four colors, that the work of the threads is the following.
Au cylindre, pour réaliser le dessin, les aiguilles sont sélectionnées de telle sorte que les chutes (1,2,3) donnent une rangée, et les chutes (4,5,6) une seconde rangée. With the cylinder, to carry out the drawing, the needles are selected so that the falls (1,2,3) give a row, and the falls (4,5,6) a second row.
Sur la face envers, réalisée avec les aiguilles du plateau, on constate que les chutes (1) et (2) donneraient une rangée, (3) et (4) une seconde rangée, (5) et (6) une troisième rangée.On the reverse side, made with the hands of the tray, we see that the falls (1) and (2) would give a row, (3) and (4) a second row, (5) and (6) a third row.
En conséquence, la densité de la face envers est une fois et demi supérieure à celle de la face avant.As a result, the density of the reverse side is one and a half times greater than that of the front panel.
Conformément à l'invention, il est possible d'obtenir un rééquilibrage des faces endroit et envers,soit en pratiquant une destructuration par déjaugeage au plateau d'une aiguille sur deux (figures 3 et 6), soit en réalisant le tricotage au plateau avec seulement quatre chemins de cames ou par sélection Jacquard (figures 4 et 5).According to the invention, it is possible to obtain a rebalancing of the right and wrong sides, either by practicing a destructuring by planing one of two needles on the plate (figures 3 and 6), either by knitting the plate with only four cam paths or by Jacquard selection (Figures 4 and 5).
Les figures 3 et 4 illustrent la structure d'un tricot Jacquard trois couleurs obtenu conformément à l'invention.Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the structure of a Jacquard three knit colors obtained in accordance with the invention.
Dans la forme de réalisation illustrée à la figure 3, on constate que les chutes (1,2,3) donnent une rangée au cylindre et les chutes (4,5,6) une seconde rangée.In the embodiment illustrated in Figure 3, we see that the falls (1,2,3) give a row to the cylinder and falls (4,5,6) a second row.
En ce qui concerne l'envers réalisé au plateau, les chutes (1) et (2) donnent une première rangée, (3) et (4) une seconde rangée, (5) et (6) une troisième rangée.With regard to the reverse made on the plate, the falls (1) and (2) give a first row, (3) and (4) a second row, (5) and (6) a third row.
Un tel article présente, par rapport à celui illustré à la figure 1, une densité en colonne de mailles divisée par deux.Such an article presents, compared to that illustrated in FIG. 1, a density in column of meshes divided by two.
La figure 4 illustre le rééquilibrage d'un tricot par destructuration par tricotage au plateau avec quatre chemins de cames ou par sélection Jacquard. FIG. 4 illustrates the rebalancing of a knitted fabric by destructuring by plate knitting with four cam paths or by selection Jacquard.
Dans un tel cas, le rapport d'armure est de douze chutes, quatre rangées au cylindre formant la face endroit Jacquard correpondant à seulement trois rangées au plateau.In such a case, the armor ratio is twelve falls, four rows in the cylinder forming the Jacquard face side corresponding to only three rows on the tray.
La figure 5 illustre un tricot Jacquard quatre couleurs réalisé conformément à l'invention, la destructuration à la face envers étant obtenue par tricotage au plateau sur quatre chemins de cames ou par sélection Jacquard.Figure 5 illustrates a four-color Jacquard knit produced in accordance with the invention, the destructuring on the reverse side being obtained by knitting on the plate on four cam paths or by Jacquard selection.
Dans un tel cas, les chutes (1,2,3 et 4) donnent une rangée au cylindre et également une rangée au plateau, la densité de mailles étant donc identique sur l'envers et l'endroit.In such a case, the falls (1,2,3 and 4) give a row to the cylinder and also a row on the tray, the mesh density being therefore identical on reverse and place.
La figure 6 illustre quant à elle la réalisation d'un Jacquard quatre couleurs dont la destructuration de la face envers est obtenue par déjaugeage du plateau d'une aiguille sur deux. Dans un tel cas, les chutes (1,2,3,4) donnent une rangée au cylindre, les chutes (1) et (2) donnant quant à elles une première rangée au plateau et les chutes (3) et (4) une seconde rangée.Figure 6 illustrates the realization of a Jacquard four colors whose destructuring of the reverse side is obtained by planing of the plate of a needle on two. In such a case, the falls (1,2,3,4) give a row to the cylinder, the falls (1) and (2) giving as for a first row to the plateau and the falls (3) and (4) a second row.
Dans un tel cas, on a bien deux rangées de tricot sur la face envers correspondant à une seule rangée au cylindre, mais la densité de cette face envers est cependant identique à l'exemple précédent compte tenu du fait que le nombre de colonnes de mailles est divisé par deux.In such a case, there are two rows of knitting on the wrong side corresponding to a single row to the cylinder, but the density of this face reverse is however identical to the previous example taking into account the fact that the number of columns of meshes is divided by two.
Claims (5)
- Three-colour or four-colour Jacquard knitted fabric produced on a weft-stitch circular knitting machine, characterized in that the knitting weave forming the back is destructured, as compared with a conventional equivalent weave, the said knitted fabric having the same stitch density on the back as on the face in the case of a four-colour Jacquard fabric and, in the case of a three-colour Jacquard fabric, a density equal to 0.75 times that of the face.
- Method for producing a Jacquard knitted fabric according to Claim 1, characterized in that the destructuration of the back is obtained by putting the bed of the knitting machine out of gauge one needle out of two, thus dividing the number of stitch wales on this face by two and therefore also the stitch density by two.
- Method for obtaining a Jacquard knitted fabric according to Claim 1, characterized in that the weave of the bed forming the back is produced by alternately selecting one needle out of four, thus resulting in a division of the number of rows on the back by two and consequently in a stitch density divided by two.
- Method according to Claim 3, characterized in that the needles are alternately selected on four camtracks.
- Method according to Claim 3, characterized in that the needles are alternately selected by means of a Jacquard system.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR9504614 | 1995-04-11 | ||
| FR9504614A FR2732983B1 (en) | 1995-04-11 | 1995-04-11 | JACQUARD KNIT OBTAINED ON A CIRCULAR KNITWEAR WITH PICKED MESHES |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0737767A1 EP0737767A1 (en) | 1996-10-16 |
| EP0737767B1 true EP0737767B1 (en) | 2000-01-26 |
Family
ID=9478206
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP95420259A Expired - Lifetime EP0737767B1 (en) | 1995-04-11 | 1995-09-19 | Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0737767B1 (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE189276T1 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE69514784T2 (en) |
| ES (1) | ES2141907T3 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2732983B1 (en) |
| PT (1) | PT737767E (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ES2425574T5 (en) | 2007-03-27 | 2021-11-03 | Lava Bvba | Method of knitting a double stockinette fabric on a double jacquard circular knitting machine |
| EP3441510A1 (en) | 2017-08-11 | 2019-02-13 | Terrot GmbH | Method for producing a double knit fabric on a circular double jersey knitting machine |
Family Cites Families (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US3808843A (en) * | 1972-05-01 | 1974-05-07 | Phillip Fibers Corp | Double knit fabric |
| FR2536428A1 (en) * | 1982-11-19 | 1984-05-25 | Barraud Roland | Jacquard knit on a jersey background and its method of manufacture on a knitting loom |
| GB2263485B (en) * | 1992-01-16 | 1996-01-03 | Gen Motors Corp | Knitted structure |
-
1995
- 1995-04-11 FR FR9504614A patent/FR2732983B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1995-09-19 AT AT95420259T patent/ATE189276T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1995-09-19 DE DE69514784T patent/DE69514784T2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1995-09-19 EP EP95420259A patent/EP0737767B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1995-09-19 ES ES95420259T patent/ES2141907T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1995-09-19 PT PT95420259T patent/PT737767E/en unknown
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2732983B1 (en) | 1997-05-09 |
| EP0737767A1 (en) | 1996-10-16 |
| PT737767E (en) | 2000-07-31 |
| ATE189276T1 (en) | 2000-02-15 |
| ES2141907T3 (en) | 2000-04-01 |
| DE69514784T2 (en) | 2000-06-21 |
| FR2732983A1 (en) | 1996-10-18 |
| DE69514784D1 (en) | 2000-03-02 |
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