EP0737767A1 - Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine - Google Patents

Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0737767A1
EP0737767A1 EP95420259A EP95420259A EP0737767A1 EP 0737767 A1 EP0737767 A1 EP 0737767A1 EP 95420259 A EP95420259 A EP 95420259A EP 95420259 A EP95420259 A EP 95420259A EP 0737767 A1 EP0737767 A1 EP 0737767A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jacquard
stitches
density
row
needles
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Granted
Application number
EP95420259A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0737767B1 (en
Inventor
Jean-Michel Gault
René Maneval
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Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
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Textiles et Plastiques Chomarat SA
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Publication of EP0737767A1 publication Critical patent/EP0737767A1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2505/00Industrial
    • D10B2505/08Upholstery, mattresses

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an improvement made to Jacquard knits made on a circular loom with double-picked plaited mesh usable in particular as materials for covering seats, walls, etc., in particular in the sector of interior vehicle trim.
  • It relates more particularly to a new type of knitting obtained on a circular knitting machine, double needle bed.
  • Such knitting looms consist essentially of a horizontal plate and a vertical cylinder, one of these elements, in general the cylinder (also designated vertical needle bed), which makes it possible to select the needles according to a predetermined rhythm depending on the drawings we want to make.
  • the horizontal needle bed or tray has a combined cam track as for Interloc looms, capable of selecting the needles so that each row of the reverse side, made with the thread forming the right side, is obtained on two successive falls. Consequently, when we make a three-color Jacquard, each row of knitting is carried out by making a selection of the drawing with the cylinder, so that all the needles work to make a row of knitting which is therefore made from three falls, while the reverse which is knitted on the needles of the tray has a structure such that each row formed with the same threads as those forming the design is produced on two successive falls, which therefore results in a density of this backing 1, 5 times that of the place.
  • each row is made from four scraps, the reverse made with the needles of the tray being always performed on two successive scraps, which leads, in such a case, to a density of rows of stitches on the wrong side double that obtained on the right side.
  • the new Jacquard knit three or four colors according to the invention is characterized in that the knitting weave for producing the reverse side is destructured compared to a conventional weave.
  • the destructuring is obtained by planing the loom two needles out of four, thus making it possible to divide by two the number of columns of stitches on this face and therefore by two the density of stitches.
  • the weave of the plate is made by selecting in staggered rows one needle out of four, making it possible to halve the number of rows, therefore also the mesh density by two.
  • Such a staggered selection of needles can be obtained by making the armor of the plate on four cam tracks. It could also be envisaged to carry out such a selection by means of a Jacquard system associated with the tray.
  • Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the structure of a classic three and four color Jacquard knit.
  • Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 illustrate four Jacquard knits produced in accordance with the invention, Figures 3 and 4 corresponding to a three-color Jacquard knitted fabric and Figures 5 and 6 to a four-color Jacquard knitted fabric.
  • the needles are selected so that the falls (1,2,3) give a row, and the falls (4,5,6) a second row.
  • the density of the reverse side is 1.5 times that of the front side.
  • Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the structure of a three-color Jacquard knit obtained according to the invention.
  • the falls (1) and (2) give a first row, (3) and (4) a second row, (5) and (6) a third row.
  • Such an article has, compared to that illustrated in FIG. 1, a density in column of meshes divided by two.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates the rebalancing of a knitted fabric by destructuring by knitting on the plate with four cam paths or by Jacquard selection.
  • the armor ratio is twelve falls, four rows on the cylinder forming the Jacquard face side corresponding to only three rows on the plate.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates a four-color Jacquard knit produced in accordance with the invention, the destructuring on the reverse side being obtained by knitting on the plate on four cam paths or by Jacquard selection.
  • the falls (1,2,3 and 4) give a row to the cylinder and also a row to the plate, the mesh density therefore being identical on the wrong side and the place.
  • FIG. 6 illustrates, for its part, the production of a four-color Jacquard, the destructuring of the reverse side of which is obtained by planing the plate out of one needle out of two.
  • the falls (1,2,3,4) give a row to the cylinder
  • the falls (1) and (2) give a first row to the plate

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Looms (AREA)

Abstract

The Jacquard knitwear, produced in three or four colours on a circular machine with gathered stitches, has rear face which is destructured in relation to a conventional finish by de-gauging two needles out of four and thus dividing the number of columns of stitches and their density by two. The knitwear surface finish can be produced by selecting one needle from four alternately, dividing by two the number of rows and, consequently, the density of the stitches on the rear face.

Description

La présente invention a trait à un perfectionnement apporté aux tricots Jacquard réalisés sur un métier circulaire à mailles cueillies double fonture utilisables notamment comme matériaux de revêtement de sièges, parois ..., notamment dans le secteur du garnissage de l'intérieur de véhicules.The present invention relates to an improvement made to Jacquard knits made on a circular loom with double-picked plaited mesh usable in particular as materials for covering seats, walls, etc., in particular in the sector of interior vehicle trim.

Elle a trait plus particulièrement à un nouveau type de tricot obtenu sur un métier à tricoter circulaire, double fonture.It relates more particularly to a new type of knitting obtained on a circular knitting machine, double needle bed.

De tels métiers à tricoter se composent essentiellement d'un plateau horizontal et d'un cylindre vertical, l'un de ces éléments, en général le cylindre (désigné également fonture verticale), qui permet de sélectionner les aiguilles selon un rythme prédéterminé fonction des dessins que l'on souhaite réaliser.Such knitting looms consist essentially of a horizontal plate and a vertical cylinder, one of these elements, in general the cylinder (also designated vertical needle bed), which makes it possible to select the needles according to a predetermined rhythm depending on the drawings we want to make.

La fonture horizontale ou plateau a un chemin de cames combiné comme pour les métiers Interloc, capable de sélectionner les aiguilles de telle sorte que chaque rangée de la face envers, réalisée avec le fil formant la face endroit, soit obtenue sur deux chutes successives. Par suite, lorsque l'on réalise un Jacquard trois couleurs, chaque rangée de tricot est réalisée en effectuant une sélection du dessin au cylindre, de telle sorte que toutes les aiguilles travaillent pour réaliser une rangée de tricot qui est donc faite à partir de trois chutes, alors que l'envers qui est tricoté sur les aiguilles du plateau a une structure telle que chaque rangée formée avec les mêmes fils que ceux formant le dessin est réalisée sur deux chutes successives, ce qui entraîne donc une densité de cet envers 1,5 fois celle de l'endroit.The horizontal needle bed or tray has a combined cam track as for Interloc looms, capable of selecting the needles so that each row of the reverse side, made with the thread forming the right side, is obtained on two successive falls. Consequently, when we make a three-color Jacquard, each row of knitting is carried out by making a selection of the drawing with the cylinder, so that all the needles work to make a row of knitting which is therefore made from three falls, while the reverse which is knitted on the needles of the tray has a structure such that each row formed with the same threads as those forming the design is produced on two successive falls, which therefore results in a density of this backing 1, 5 times that of the place.

Dans le cas de Jacquard quatre couleurs, chaque rangée est réalisée à partir de quatre chutes, l'envers réalisé avec les aiguilles du plateau étant toujours réalisé sur deux chutes successives, ce qui conduit, dans un tel cas, à une densité de rangées de mailles sur l'envers double de celle obtenue sur l'endroit.In the case of Jacquard four colors, each row is made from four scraps, the reverse made with the needles of the tray being always performed on two successive scraps, which leads, in such a case, to a density of rows of stitches on the wrong side double that obtained on the right side.

Cette densité plus importante sur l'envers que sur l'endroit, pose un certain nombre de problèmes, notamment en ce qui concerne la tenue du tricot lors de sa confection, chaque maille de la face envers étant plus petite donc plus fragile, et augmente les risques de probabilité que lors de la couture, l'aiguille détériore une maille.This higher density on the reverse side than on the right side poses a certain number of problems, in particular as regards the behavior of the knitted fabric during its making, each stitch on the reverse side being smaller therefore more fragile, and increases the risks of probability that during sewing, the needle will deteriorate a stitch.

Or on a trouvé, et c'est ce qui fait l'objet de la présente invention, qu'il était possible de réaliser des tricots Jacquards trois ou quatre couleurs, qui permettent de résoudre ce problème, l'article obtenu présentant la même densité de mailles sur l'envers par rapport à l'endroit dans le cas d'un Jacquard quatre couleurs et, dans le Jacquard trois couleurs, une densité égale à 0,75 fois celle de l'endroit.Now we have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible to make Jacquards knitwear three or four colors, which make it possible to solve this problem, the article obtained having the same density of mesh on the wrong side from the right side in the case of a four-color Jacquard and, in the three-color Jacquard, a density equal to 0.75 times that of the right side.

D'une manière générale, le nouveau tricot Jacquard trois ou quatre couleurs conforme à l'invention, se caractérise en ce que l'armure de tricotage pour réaliser la face envers est destructurée par rapport à une armure conventionnelle.In general, the new Jacquard knit three or four colors according to the invention, is characterized in that the knitting weave for producing the reverse side is destructured compared to a conventional weave.

Selon une première forme de réalisation, la destructuration est obtenue en déjaugeant le métier deux aiguilles sur quatre, permettant ainsi de diviser par deux le nombre de colonnes de mailles sur cette face et donc par deux la densité de mailles.According to a first embodiment, the destructuring is obtained by planing the loom two needles out of four, thus making it possible to divide by two the number of columns of stitches on this face and therefore by two the density of stitches.

Selon une autre forme de réalisation, l'armure du plateau est réalisée en sélectionnant en quinconce une aiguille sur quatre, permettant de diviser par deux le nombre de rangées, donc également la densité de mailles par deux.According to another embodiment, the weave of the plate is made by selecting in staggered rows one needle out of four, making it possible to halve the number of rows, therefore also the mesh density by two.

Une telle sélection en quinconce des aiguilles peut être obtenue en réalisant l'armure du plateau sur quatre chemins de cames. Il pourrait également être envisagé de réaliser une telle sélection au moyen d'un système Jacquard associé au plateau.Such a staggered selection of needles can be obtained by making the armor of the plate on four cam tracks. It could also be envisaged to carry out such a selection by means of a Jacquard system associated with the tray.

L'invention et les avantages qu'elle apporte seront cependant mieux compris grâce aux exemples de réalisation donnés ci-après à titre indicatif mais non limitatif, exemples illustrés par les schémas annexés qui sont des représentations graphiques conventionnelles de tricot Jacquard double fonture, le cylindre étant référencé (C) et le plateau (P).The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the embodiments given below by way of indication but not limitation, examples illustrated by the attached diagrams which are conventional graphic representations of double-needle Jacquard knitting, the cylinder being referenced (C) and the plate (P).

Dans ces schémas, les figures 1 et 2 illustrent la structure d'un tricot Jacquard trois et quatre couleurs classiques.In these diagrams, Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the structure of a classic three and four color Jacquard knit.

Les figures 3, 4, 5 et 6 illustrent quatre tricots Jacquard réalisés conformément à l'invention, les figures 3 et 4 correspondant à un tricot Jacquard trois couleurs et les figures 5 et 6 à un tricot Jacquard quatre couleurs.Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 illustrate four Jacquard knits produced in accordance with the invention, Figures 3 and 4 corresponding to a three-color Jacquard knitted fabric and Figures 5 and 6 to a four-color Jacquard knitted fabric.

En se reportant aux figures 1 et 2, on constate que pour réaliser un Jacquard conventionnel trois ou quatre couleurs, que le travail des fils est le suivant.Referring to Figures 1 and 2, we see that to achieve a conventional Jacquard three or four colors, the work of the son is as follows.

Au cylindre, pour réaliser le dessin, les aiguilles sont sélectionnées de telle sorte que les chutes (1,2,3) donnent une rangée, et les chutes (4,5,6) une seconde rangée.With the cylinder, to carry out the drawing, the needles are selected so that the falls (1,2,3) give a row, and the falls (4,5,6) a second row.

Sur la face envers, réalisée avec les aiguilles du plateau, on constate que les chutes (1) et (2) donneraient une rangée, (3) et (4) une seconde rangée, (5) et (6) une troisième rangée.On the reverse side, made with the needles of the tray, we see that the falls (1) and (2) would give a row, (3) and (4) a second row, (5) and (6) a third row.

En conséquence, la densité de la face envers est une fois et demi supérieure à celle de la face avant.Consequently, the density of the reverse side is 1.5 times that of the front side.

Conformément à l'invention, il est possible d'obtenir un rééquilibrage des faces endroit et envers,soit en pratiquant une destructuration par déjaugeage au plateau d'une aiguille sur deux (figures 3 et 6), soit en réalisant le tricotage au plateau avec seulement quatre chemins de cames ou par sélection Jacquard (figures 4 et 5).According to the invention, it is possible to obtain a rebalancing of the right and wrong sides, either by practicing a destructuring by planing out of the needle of one needle out of two (FIGS. 3 and 6), or by carrying out knitting on the plate with only four cam paths or by Jacquard selection (Figures 4 and 5).

Les figures 3 et 4 illustrent la structure d'un tricot Jacquard trois couleurs obtenu conformément à l'invention.Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the structure of a three-color Jacquard knit obtained according to the invention.

Dans la forme de réalisation illustrée à la figure 3, on constate que les chutes (1,2,3) donnent une rangée au cylindre et les chutes (4,5,6) une seconde rangée.In the embodiment illustrated in Figure 3, we see that the falls (1,2,3) give a row to the cylinder and the falls (4,5,6) a second row.

En ce qui concerne l'envers réalisé au plateau, les chutes (1) et (2) donnent une première rangée, (3) et (4) une seconde rangée, (5) et (6) une troisième rangée.As regards the reverse made on the plate, the falls (1) and (2) give a first row, (3) and (4) a second row, (5) and (6) a third row.

Un tel article présente, par rapport à celui illustré à la figure 1, une densité en colonne de mailles divisée par deux.Such an article has, compared to that illustrated in FIG. 1, a density in column of meshes divided by two.

La figure 4 illustre le rééquilibrage d'un tricot par destructuration par tricotage au plateau avec quatre chemins de cames ou par sélection Jacquard.FIG. 4 illustrates the rebalancing of a knitted fabric by destructuring by knitting on the plate with four cam paths or by Jacquard selection.

Dans un tel cas, le rapport d'armure est de douze chutes, quatre rangées au cylindre formant la face endroit Jacquard correpondant à seulement trois rangées au plateau.In such a case, the armor ratio is twelve falls, four rows on the cylinder forming the Jacquard face side corresponding to only three rows on the plate.

La figure 5 illustre un tricot Jacquard quatre couleurs réalisé conformément à l'invention, la destructuration à la face envers étant obtenue par tricotage au plateau sur quatre chemins de cames ou par sélection Jacquard.FIG. 5 illustrates a four-color Jacquard knit produced in accordance with the invention, the destructuring on the reverse side being obtained by knitting on the plate on four cam paths or by Jacquard selection.

Dans un tel cas, les chutes (1,2,3 et 4) donnent une rangée au cylindre et également une rangée au plateau, la densité de mailles étant donc identique sur l'envers et l'endroit.In such a case, the falls (1,2,3 and 4) give a row to the cylinder and also a row to the plate, the mesh density therefore being identical on the wrong side and the place.

La figure 6 illustre quant à elle la réalisation d'un Jacquard quatre couleurs dont la destructuration de la face envers est obtenue par déjaugeage du plateau d'une aiguille sur deux. Dans un tel cas, les chutes (1,2,3,4) donnent une rangée au cylindre, les chutes (1) et (2) donnant quant à elles une première rangée au plateau et les chutes (3) et (4) une seconde rangée.FIG. 6 illustrates, for its part, the production of a four-color Jacquard, the destructuring of the reverse side of which is obtained by planing the plate out of one needle out of two. In such a case, the falls (1,2,3,4) give a row to the cylinder, the falls (1) and (2) give a first row to the plate and the falls (3) and (4) a second row.

Dans un tel cas, on a bien deux rangées de tricot sur la face envers correspondant à une seule rangée au cylindre, mais la densité de cette face envers est cependant identique à l'exemple précédent compte tenu du fait que le nombre de colonnes de mailles est divisé par deux.In such a case, there are indeed two rows of knitting on the reverse side corresponding to a single row with the cylinder, but the density of this reverse side is however identical to the previous example taking into account the fact that the number of columns of stitches is halved.

Claims (5)

Tricot Jacquard trois ou quatre couleurs obtenu sur un métier circulaire à mailles cueillies, caractérisé en ce que l'armure de tricotage pour réaliser la face envers est destructurée par rapport à une armure conventionnelle.Three or four color Jacquard knitting obtained on a circular loom with picked stitches, characterized in that the knitting weave to make the reverse side is destructured compared to a conventional weave. Tricot Jacquard selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la destructuration de la face envers est obtenue en déjaugeant le métier deux aiguilles sur quatre, divisant ainsi par deux le nombre de colonnes de mailles sur cette face et donc également par deux la densité de mailles.Jacquard knit according to claim 1, characterized in that the destructuring of the reverse side is obtained by planing the loom two needles out of four, thus dividing by two the number of columns of stitches on this face and therefore also by two the density of stitches . Tricot Jacquard selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'armure du plateau est réalisée en sélectionnant en quinconce une aiguille sur quatre, entraînant une division par deux du nombre de rangées sur la face envers et en conséquence une densité de mailles par deux.Jacquard knit according to claim 1, characterized in that the weave of the tray is produced by selecting in staggered fashion one needle out of four, resulting in a division by two of the number of rows on the reverse side and consequently a density of stitches by two. Tricot Jacquard selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que la sélection en quinconce des aiguilles est réalisée sur quatre chemins de cames.Jacquard knit according to claim 3, characterized in that the staggered selection of the needles is carried out on four cam paths. Tricot Jacquard selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que la sélection en quinconce des aiguilles pour réaliser l'armure du plateau est obtenue par l'intermédiaire d'un système Jacquard.Jacquard knit according to claim 3, characterized in that the staggered selection of the needles for producing the weave of the plate is obtained by means of a Jacquard system.
EP95420259A 1995-04-11 1995-09-19 Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine Expired - Lifetime EP0737767B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9504614A FR2732983B1 (en) 1995-04-11 1995-04-11 JACQUARD KNIT OBTAINED ON A CIRCULAR KNITWEAR WITH PICKED MESHES
FR9504614 1995-04-11

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0737767A1 true EP0737767A1 (en) 1996-10-16
EP0737767B1 EP0737767B1 (en) 2000-01-26

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EP95420259A Expired - Lifetime EP0737767B1 (en) 1995-04-11 1995-09-19 Knitted jacquard fabric made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine

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EP (1) EP0737767B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE189276T1 (en)
DE (1) DE69514784T2 (en)
ES (1) ES2141907T3 (en)
FR (1) FR2732983B1 (en)
PT (1) PT737767E (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1975294A1 (en) * 2007-03-27 2008-10-01 Lava BVBA Method for knitting a double jersey knit fabric on a double jacquard, double jersey circular knitting machine and double jersey knit fabric knitted by such a method
EP3441510A1 (en) 2017-08-11 2019-02-13 Terrot GmbH Method for producing a double knit fabric on a circular double jersey knitting machine

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3808843A (en) * 1972-05-01 1974-05-07 Phillip Fibers Corp Double knit fabric
FR2536428A1 (en) * 1982-11-19 1984-05-25 Barraud Roland Jacquard knit on a jersey background and its method of manufacture on a knitting loom
GB2263485A (en) * 1992-01-16 1993-07-28 Gen Motors Corp Knitted structure

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3808843A (en) * 1972-05-01 1974-05-07 Phillip Fibers Corp Double knit fabric
FR2536428A1 (en) * 1982-11-19 1984-05-25 Barraud Roland Jacquard knit on a jersey background and its method of manufacture on a knitting loom
GB2263485A (en) * 1992-01-16 1993-07-28 Gen Motors Corp Knitted structure

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1975294A1 (en) * 2007-03-27 2008-10-01 Lava BVBA Method for knitting a double jersey knit fabric on a double jacquard, double jersey circular knitting machine and double jersey knit fabric knitted by such a method
US7536879B2 (en) 2007-03-27 2009-05-26 Lava Bvba Method for knitting a double jersey knit fabric on a double jacquard, double jersey circular knitting machine and double jersey knit fabric knitted by such a method
EP3441510A1 (en) 2017-08-11 2019-02-13 Terrot GmbH Method for producing a double knit fabric on a circular double jersey knitting machine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2141907T3 (en) 2000-04-01
ATE189276T1 (en) 2000-02-15
DE69514784D1 (en) 2000-03-02
FR2732983A1 (en) 1996-10-18
PT737767E (en) 2000-07-31
DE69514784T2 (en) 2000-06-21
FR2732983B1 (en) 1997-05-09
EP0737767B1 (en) 2000-01-26

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