EP0286461A1 - Knitting of a velvety fabric on a pile warp knitting machine, and knitwear obtained - Google Patents

Abstract

Each yarn is used for forming loops. For this purpose, each guide bar has a sequential displacement, each sequence comprising a time during which its displacement is identical to that of the Pol sinker bar (pseudo-ground), followed by a time during which its displacement is different from that of the Pol sinker bar (formation of a loop). Moreover, the respective displacements of three guide bars are synchronised in such a way that one of the three bars (3) operates in the pseudo-ground mode for the entire time when the other two bars (1 and 2) operate according to reverse sequences: pseudo-ground then loop for the bar 1 and loop then pseudo-ground for the bar 2. The loops of the pile fabric obtained are formed successively by all the yarns, of which two yarns forming two consecutive loops on the same stitch wale are stitched with a third yarn. <IMAGE>

Description

The present invention relates to the knitting of velvet on the so-called warp-pol loom and relates in particular to the knitting obtained.

The warp-pol loom is a knitting loom operating according to the warp technique but which includes an element for forming the loop of the velvet. This element consists of a bar with pile plates, called Pol plates, driven back and forth on a division of needles, in synchronization with the formation of the knitted fabric. The loops of the velvet are obtained by passing a given thread over the Pol stage, which prevents the said thread from tightening when the needle descends. The method of tying the wire (s) intended to form the loops is designed such that it meets the path of the plate Pol during its back-and-forth movement.

All chain-pol looms are equipped with an equal number of pass bars and most often more than two. One pass bar is reserved for the production of the bottom of the knitted fabric, on which the threads forming the loops will be meshed. . The bottom of the knitted fabric is deemed essential to ensure the stability of the knitted fabric and above all to avoid the risk of loose knitting after shaving the velvet. The method of tying the wire fed by this so-called bottom bar is chosen so that the movement of the bottom bar is synchronized with the reciprocating movement of the plate bar Pol, so that the wire brought by the bottom bar is never hung by the plate bar Pol.

This particular arrangement of the pol warp loom, reserving a guide bar for background knitting, is a brake on the ability to create. In fact, the number of guide bars being limited, from 4 to 6 bars maximum, the creator can only compose his effects, loops and coloristic effects, by using bars other than the background bar, ie 3 or 5 bars .

However, we have found, and this is what is the subject of the invention, a method of manufacturing velvet knitting on a chain-pol loom equipped with at least three guide bars which overcomes this drawback. According to the method of the invention, each guide bar has a sequential displacement according to which a time when the displacement is identical to that of the bar with Pol plates is followed by a time where it is different from that of the Pol bar bars , and moreover the displacements respective of the different pass bars are alternated and synchronized in such a way that a first pass bar always has an identical displacement to that of the rod with poles during the time when a second pass bar moves in a given sequence (displacement identical then different) and where a third guide bar moves in the reverse sequence (different displacement then identical).

The sequential displacement of each guide bar, in an identical manner then different from that of the bar with Pol plates, leads to the production of loops, by each of the wires. Thus there is no longer any basic knitting itself since each thread is intended for the production of velvet loops. The stability of the knitting is obtained thanks to the mesh of the threads of the two other pass bars which, while a loop is formed during a displacement of a pass bar different from that of a rod bar Pol, achieve a pseudo-background. The particular implementation of the threads of two guide bars during the formation of a loop makes it possible to obtain a velvet knit which resists unraveling, even after shaving.

The velvet knit, made on a chain-pol loom in accordance with the process of the invention, has a characteristic structure in that the loops are formed successively by all the threads and in that two threads forming two adjacent loops are meshed with a third thread .

• La figure 2 est le graphique de liage correspondant à un premier tricot selon l'invention réalisé sur métier chaîne-pol à trois barres à passettes
• La figure 3 est le graphique de liage correspondant à un second tricot selon l'invention réalisé sur métier chaîne-pol à quatre barres à passettes.

The invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be made of two embodiments of velvet knitting on a pol warp loom, without continuous bottom, illustrated by the appended drawing in which FIGS. 1A and 1B are two diagrams showing the operating sequences of the guide bars in the conventional method (FIG. 1A) and in the method of the invention (FIG. 2B).

• FIG. 2 is the binding graph corresponding to a first knitting according to the invention produced on a chain-pol loom with three guide bars
• FIG. 3 is the binding graph corresponding to a second knitting according to the invention produced on a chain-pol loom with four guide bars.

Velvet knitting on a warp-pol loom is known to those skilled in the art. This loom is equipped with a plate bar complementary to the elements of the conventional loom; this Pol plate bar ensures the formation of the velvet loop, as soon as a thread passes over the Pol plate during knitting. The plate bar Pol is driven back and forth, using known means of the drum type or drawing disc type.

For a loop to be formed, it is necessary that, in the respective displacements of the guide bars and of the plate bar Pol, the path of a given pass bar crosses that of the bar of plates Pol. The bottom of the velvet knit is obtained, according to the conventional operation of the warp-pol loom, by the thread of the first guide bar whose displacement is identical to that of the flat bar Pol.

Figure 1 shows the sequence of sequences during the operation of a chain-pol loom with three guide bars for the production of a velvet knit. On this diagram, the solid lines correspond to the displacement of the guide bar without crossing with the plate bar Pol, that is to say without forming a loop; the dotted lines correspond to the displacement of the guide bar with crossing of the plate bar Pol, and therefore with the formation of a loop.

Figure 1A shows the conventional operation of the loom. The first pass bar 1 produces the continuous background of the knitted fabric, the other two pass bars 2 and 3 produce the velvet loops alternately.

FIG. 1B shows the operation of the loom in accordance with the invention. Each guide bar is actuated in the same sequence, which includes a movement without crossing with the Pol plate bar for two thirds of the time (pseudo-bottom operation) and a crossing with crossing with the Pol plate bar for a third time (loop operation). The sequences of the three guide bars are offset from each other, so that during the first third of the sequence of bar 1 it works in a loop and bars 2 and 3 in pseudo-background , during the second third bars 1 and 3 operate in pseudo-background and the bar 2 in loop, and during the third third bars 1 and 2 operate in pseudo-bottom and bar 3 in loop.

It can be understood from the diagram in FIG. 1B that all of the threads participate successively in the formation of the loops and of the pseudo-bottom, unlike what happens according to conventional operation where a thread is reserved for the formation of the bottom of the knitted fabric. The designer will therefore have a complementary thread to achieve his exterior effects.

Like the conventional bottom, the psendo-bottom of the invention ensures stability and blocking of the curls, even after shaving. This is obtained from the fact that during the succession of two loops (reference A in FIG. 1B) between the bar 2 and the bar 1 the wire of the bar 3 ensures the binding of the two other wires by its pseudo-bottom operation.

The velvet knit, the binding graph of which is shown in FIG. 2, is one of the simplest that can be produced in accordance with the invention. It takes again the sequences of figure 1B, on the basis of a chain 4 for the operation in loop and of a semi-simple 5 open meshes for the operation in pseudo-bottom. For the formation of the chain 4 the passette always throws its thread on the same needle, the path of the passette necessarily crosses that of the Pol plate which is animated by a back and forth movement, there is formation of a loop. For the formation of the half-simple 5, the passette is animated by the same back-and-forth movement as the plate Pol, their paths do not cross and there is no formation of a loop. The broken line 6 in FIG. 2 shows diagrammatically the displacement of the plate Pol 7 located immediately next to the needle 8. It can be seen that the line 6 remains substantially parallel to the path of the wire of the bar 1 working in semi-simple 5 and cut the path of the wire once the bar 1 works in chain 4.

The assembly of the link chain, according to conventional writing, is as follows:

The velvet knit whose binding graph is shown in Figure 3 is obtained on a warp-pol loom equipped with four guide bars, one of which (bar I) is a weft bar. The other three bars operate in accordance with the invention but with different sequences from one bar to another, broken down into quarter time: the second bar operates in a loop during the first quarter then in pseudo-background during the rest of the sequence; the third bar operates in pseudo-background during the first half of the sequence, in loop during the third quarter, then in pseudo-background during the last quarter; the fourth bar operates in pseudo-bottom during the first quarter, in loop during the second quarter, in pseudo-bottom during the third quarter and finally in loop during the last quarter.

As in the first example, the pseudo-background is obtained by a semi-simple knitting and the loop by a chain knitting, for a displacement of the bar with Pol stages according to a back and forth identical to that of the bar with passettes corresponding to the semi-simple.

The assembly of the link chain is as follows:

During the first half-sequence, the third bar works in pseudo-bottom while the second and third bars have reverse, loop / pseudo-bottom (second), pseudo-bottom / loop (fourth) alternating operation. During the second half-sequence, it is the second bar which works in pseudo-bottom while the third and fourth bars have a reverse alternating operation.

Claims (3)

1. A method of manufacturing velvet knitting on a pol warp loom equipped with at least three pass bars characterized in that each pass bar has a sequential movement according to which a time during which its movement is identical to that of the plate bar Pol is followed by a time during which its displacement is different from that of the Pol rod bar and in that the respective displacements of the different guide bars are alternated and synchronized so that a first pass bar has a displacement identical to that of the Pol stage bar during all the time where a second pass bar moves in a given sequence (identical movement then different from that of the Pol stage bar) and where a third pass bar moves according to the same sequence but reverse of the second bar (different displacement then identical to that of the bar with Pol stages). 2. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that three guide bars have the same sequences, offset by a third relative to each other. 3. Velvet knit obtained by the implementation of the method according to claim 1 characterized in that the loops are formed successively by all the threads and in that two threads forming two consecutive loops on the same column of mesh are meshed with a third wire.

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