EP0624361A1 - Herstellungsverfahren einer festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung mit Hilfe von Gips und so hergestellte kosmetische Zusammenstellung - Google Patents

Herstellungsverfahren einer festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung mit Hilfe von Gips und so hergestellte kosmetische Zusammenstellung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0624361A1
EP0624361A1 EP94400971A EP94400971A EP0624361A1 EP 0624361 A1 EP0624361 A1 EP 0624361A1 EP 94400971 A EP94400971 A EP 94400971A EP 94400971 A EP94400971 A EP 94400971A EP 0624361 A1 EP0624361 A1 EP 0624361A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
fraction
hydrophobic
hydrophilic
powders
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP94400971A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0624361B1 (de
Inventor
Sophie Lecomte
Gwenola Le Gars
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP0624361A1 publication Critical patent/EP0624361A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0624361B1 publication Critical patent/EP0624361B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for manufacturing a solid cosmetic composition using plaster and a cosmetic composition obtained by this process.
  • plaster as a solidifying agent is advantageous since it makes it possible to replace the compacting operation, usually necessary for obtaining a composition in solid form from pulverulent products, by a molding operation, the implementation of which is more simple, less expensive and allows to obtain more diverse forms.
  • this process has the advantage of allowing the incorporation, in a high proportion in the compositions, of "diffusing" fillers such as silica and silicone beads or expanded microspheres of thermoplastic material having a specific mass of 15 to 200 kg / m3 such as those in acrylonitrile / vinylidene chloride / methyl methacrylate terpolymer sold by the company "CASCO-NOBEL” under the name “EXPANCEL 551 DE”.
  • "diffusing" fillers such as silica and silicone beads or expanded microspheres of thermoplastic material having a specific mass of 15 to 200 kg / m3 such as those in acrylonitrile / vinylidene chloride / methyl methacrylate terpolymer sold by the company "CASCO-NOBEL" under the name “EXPANCEL 551 DE”.
  • a pulverulent material is "hydrophobic" or “hydrophilic"
  • the test defined below is carried out.
  • a 20 mm diameter test tube is filled with 20 ml of water. 2 grams of powder are poured into the tube without shaking and the behavior of the powder is observed for 5 minutes at maximum. If the powder remains perfectly on the surface, it is considered “hydrophobic”. Otherwise, it is considered “hydrophilic”.
  • the calcium sulfate hemihydrate used according to the invention can be in its ⁇ form and / or in its ⁇ form. It can be mixed with at least one setting time modifying agent such as retarders such as sodium citrate and accelerators such as gypsum and sodium sulfates.
  • the amount of calcium sulfate hemihydrate suitably represents 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 30% by weight of the pulverulent mixture (P).
  • the hydrophobic fraction (FO) necessarily contains at least one fatty substance and / or at least one powder treated by coating or chemical grafting so as to give it the cosmetic properties of a fatty substance.
  • the fatty substances which can be used are all those generally used in cosmetic compositions.
  • oils of mineral origin such as petrolatum oil
  • oils of animal origin such as lanolin
  • oils of vegetable origin such as jojoba oil
  • esters of carboxylic acid and of C en-C22 fatty alcohol or with a lower alcohol such as triisocetyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, tridecyl neopentanoate
  • fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol
  • silicone oils, gums or waxes such as alkyldimethicones
  • fluorinated oils and their derivatives in particular silicone derivatives.
  • the fatty substances can contain at least one additive and / or at least one liposoluble cosmetic active ingredient.
  • additives or active agents mention may be made of polymers such as the hexadecene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, sunscreens, perfumes, preservatives, antioxidants and liposoluble vitamins.
  • the powders treated by coating or chemical grafting, so as to give them the cosmetic properties of fatty substances are pulverulent products of both hydrophobic and hydrophilic nature which have been treated with hydrophobic products, among which there may be mentioned, for example , silicones, lipoamino acids, metallic soaps, fluorinated derivatives, mineral oils, lecithin, isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate, polyethylene and collagen and its derivatives.
  • the fatty substance (s) and / or the pulverulent material (s) treated represents (s) at least 1% by weight.
  • the hydrophobic fraction (FO) represents 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight of the pulverulent mixture (P).
  • the hydrophilic fraction (FI) advantageously contains at least one non-colored hydrophilic filler which is not treated and / or at least one non-colored filler treated with hydrophilicity and / or at least one pigment.
  • the hydrophilic treated fillers are pulverulent materials treated by coating or chemical grafting, to make their surface hydrophilic, using materials, such as chitosan, titanium dioxide, silica or hydrophilic polymers, in particular sulfonic polyesters or quaternary polyammonium.
  • the hydrophilic fraction (FI) generally represents from 5 to 75% by weight of the pulverulent mixture (P), preferably from 25 to 60% by weight.
  • the powder mixture (P) can optionally contain at least one surfactant, which can help wetting and dispersing the powder mixture.
  • the surfactant can be nonionic like the oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, cationic like the quaternary ammonium salts, or amphoteric like the betaine derivatives.
  • the amount of surfactant introduced does not exceed 5% by weight of the pulverulent mixture (P).
  • the present invention also relates to the solid cosmetic composition containing plaster obtained by the process described above.
  • This composition contains from 15 to 35% by weight of calcium sulphate dihydrate (CaSO4, 2H2O), preferably from 20 to 30% by weight; 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight of hydrophobic fraction (FO) as described above; 5 to 75% by weight, preferably 20 to 65% by weight, of hydrophilic fraction (FI) as described above, the fatty substance (s) and / or the pulverulent material (s) ( s) treated by chemical coating or grafting to become hydrophobic (s) representing at least 0.1% by weight of the composition.
  • CaSO4, 2H2O calcium sulphate dihydrate
  • FO hydrophobic fraction
  • FI hydrophilic fraction
  • This composition optionally contains at most 10% by weight of surfactant and / or at most 10% by weight of cosmetic additives previously dispersed or dissolved in water and / or at most 10% by weight of setting time modifier .
  • the weight ratio FI / FO is 0.87.
  • the resulting blush contains no aggregates or gaps; it is hard but crumbly and can be easily applied.
  • a paste is prepared, as in Example 1, having the formulation given below in grams, which gives, after molding and drying, a dry finished product having the composition indicated below (in% by weight):
  • the product obtained is, after molding and drying, in the form of a curved bread, usable with a puff; it contains neither agglomerate nor gap.
  • the paste can also be molded in the form of a pencil which can be used as a concealer.
  • a paste is prepared, as in Example 1, having the formulation given below in grams, which gives, after molding and drying, a dry finished product having the composition indicated below (in% by weight):
  • the powder obtained is in the form of a rectangular loaf usable with a puff or a brush, having neither agglomerate nor gap.
  • a paste is prepared, as in Example 1, having the formulation given below in grams, which gives, after molding and drying, a dry finished product having the composition indicated below (in% by weight):
  • the make-up obtained is in the form of a curved tablet usable with the finger or with an applicator, and which presents neither agglomerate, nor gap.

Landscapes

  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP94400971A 1993-05-13 1994-05-04 Herstellungsverfahren einer festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung mit Hilfe von Gips und so hergestellte kosmetische Zusammenstellung Expired - Lifetime EP0624361B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9305774 1993-05-13
FR9305774A FR2705231B1 (fr) 1993-05-13 1993-05-13 Procédé de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique solide à l'aide de plâtre et composition cosmétique ainsi obtenue.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0624361A1 true EP0624361A1 (de) 1994-11-17
EP0624361B1 EP0624361B1 (de) 1997-09-17

Family

ID=9447089

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP94400971A Expired - Lifetime EP0624361B1 (de) 1993-05-13 1994-05-04 Herstellungsverfahren einer festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung mit Hilfe von Gips und so hergestellte kosmetische Zusammenstellung

Country Status (10)

Country Link
US (1) US5510107A (de)
EP (1) EP0624361B1 (de)
JP (1) JP2928790B2 (de)
AT (1) ATE158164T1 (de)
CA (1) CA2122972C (de)
DE (1) DE69405638T2 (de)
DK (1) DK0624361T3 (de)
ES (1) ES2106465T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2705231B1 (de)
GR (1) GR3025638T3 (de)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0864322A1 (de) * 1997-03-13 1998-09-16 L'oreal Verfahren zur Herstellung von einer festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung die Gips enthält und die so erhaltene Zusammensetzung
JP2015212393A (ja) * 1999-09-01 2015-11-26 メルク パテント ゲゼルシャフト ミット ベシュレンクテル ハフツングMerck Patent Gesellschaft mit beschraenkter Haftung BiOCl顔料を含む顔料混合物
WO2018096146A1 (en) * 2016-11-28 2018-05-31 L'oreal Solid composition comprising a powder and a poly(alkylene oxide)

Families Citing this family (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2700952B1 (fr) * 1993-01-29 1995-03-17 Oreal Nouvelles compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques sous forme de gels aqueux modifiés par addition de microsphères expansées.
FR2722092B1 (fr) * 1994-07-11 1996-08-14 Oreal Composition capillaire solide contenant un agent structurant particulaire
FR2734716B1 (fr) * 1995-06-01 1997-08-14 Oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme de pate souple et son procede de preparation
US5702693A (en) * 1995-12-07 1997-12-30 Draxis Health Inc. Gypsum removal composition and method of removing gypsum from skin
KR20000002372A (ko) * 1998-06-19 2000-01-15 성재갑 피지 흡유능이 우수한 분백류 색조화장료 조성물
FR2785535B1 (fr) * 1998-11-06 2002-06-14 Oreal Poudre cosmetique et/ou dermatologique, son procede de preparation et ses utilisations
FR2802411A1 (fr) * 1999-12-15 2001-06-22 Oreal Composition cosmetique solide a base de platre comprenant un agent modificateur de la cinetique de prise particulier, procede de preparation et utilisations
JP4594075B2 (ja) * 2004-02-23 2010-12-08 株式会社コーセー 固形粉末化粧料
US20050287092A1 (en) * 2004-05-13 2005-12-29 Anne Liechty Cosmetic powder comprising barium sulfate
FR2870115B1 (fr) * 2004-05-13 2006-11-24 Oreal Poudre cosmetique comprenant une poudre acrylique
US20050287099A1 (en) * 2004-05-13 2005-12-29 Anne Liechty Cosmetic powder comprising at least one acrylic polymer powder
EP1655014A1 (de) * 2004-10-13 2006-05-10 L'oreal Acrylpulver enthaltendes kosmetisches Puder

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0095889A2 (de) * 1982-05-28 1983-12-07 MAX FACTOR & CO Feste kosmetische Präparate und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung
WO1986000798A1 (en) * 1984-07-23 1986-02-13 Kolmar Laboratories, Inc. Calcium sulfate cosmetic powder product
US4724138A (en) * 1982-09-30 1988-02-09 Avon Products, Inc. Preparation of a self supporting cosmetic from a pigmented powder
US5049376A (en) * 1990-01-26 1991-09-17 Revlon, Inc. Cosmetic powder bar composition and process for making same

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ZA723270B (en) * 1972-05-15 1973-06-27 Chem Ind Of South Africa Ltd Improvements in the manufacture of calcium sulphate dihydrate
JPS52122639A (en) * 1976-04-06 1977-10-15 Shiseido Co Ltd Toiletry
GB8521646D0 (en) * 1985-08-30 1985-10-02 English Clays Lovering Pochin Inorganic fillers
US4804538A (en) * 1987-04-03 1989-02-14 Misasa Inc. Method for producing powder cake cosmetics
US5283062A (en) * 1992-09-10 1994-02-01 Elizabeth Arden Company, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Color cosmetic composition

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0095889A2 (de) * 1982-05-28 1983-12-07 MAX FACTOR & CO Feste kosmetische Präparate und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung
US4724138A (en) * 1982-09-30 1988-02-09 Avon Products, Inc. Preparation of a self supporting cosmetic from a pigmented powder
WO1986000798A1 (en) * 1984-07-23 1986-02-13 Kolmar Laboratories, Inc. Calcium sulfate cosmetic powder product
US5049376A (en) * 1990-01-26 1991-09-17 Revlon, Inc. Cosmetic powder bar composition and process for making same

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0864322A1 (de) * 1997-03-13 1998-09-16 L'oreal Verfahren zur Herstellung von einer festen kosmetischen Zusammensetzung die Gips enthält und die so erhaltene Zusammensetzung
WO1998040048A1 (fr) * 1997-03-13 1998-09-17 L'oreal Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique solide a base de platre et composition cosmetique ainsi obtenue
FR2760635A1 (fr) * 1997-03-13 1998-09-18 Oreal Procede de preparation d'une composition cosmetique a base de platre et composition cosmetique ainsi obtenue
US6235295B1 (en) 1997-03-13 2001-05-22 L'oreal S.A. Method for preparing a solid cosmetic gypsum plaster based composition and resulting cosmetic composition
JP2015212393A (ja) * 1999-09-01 2015-11-26 メルク パテント ゲゼルシャフト ミット ベシュレンクテル ハフツングMerck Patent Gesellschaft mit beschraenkter Haftung BiOCl顔料を含む顔料混合物
WO2018096146A1 (en) * 2016-11-28 2018-05-31 L'oreal Solid composition comprising a powder and a poly(alkylene oxide)
FR3059234A1 (fr) * 2016-11-28 2018-06-01 L'oreal Composition solide comprenant une poudre et un poly(oxyde d'alkylene)

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DK0624361T3 (da) 1998-04-27
GR3025638T3 (en) 1998-03-31
JP2928790B2 (ja) 1999-08-03
CA2122972C (fr) 1999-08-03
US5510107A (en) 1996-04-23
ATE158164T1 (de) 1997-10-15
ES2106465T3 (es) 1997-11-01
FR2705231A1 (fr) 1994-11-25
JPH072626A (ja) 1995-01-06
DE69405638D1 (de) 1997-10-23
CA2122972A1 (fr) 1994-11-14
DE69405638T2 (de) 1998-01-22
EP0624361B1 (de) 1997-09-17
FR2705231B1 (fr) 1995-07-21

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