EP0476818A1 - Verbesserung eines Verfahren und einer Vorrichtung zum Anbringen von elastischen Bändern an Kleidung - Google Patents

Verbesserung eines Verfahren und einer Vorrichtung zum Anbringen von elastischen Bändern an Kleidung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0476818A1
EP0476818A1 EP91307137A EP91307137A EP0476818A1 EP 0476818 A1 EP0476818 A1 EP 0476818A1 EP 91307137 A EP91307137 A EP 91307137A EP 91307137 A EP91307137 A EP 91307137A EP 0476818 A1 EP0476818 A1 EP 0476818A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
elastic material
garment
length
band
secured
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP91307137A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Robert William Arthur Dagg
Peter Harry Michael Kummer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from GB919111549A external-priority patent/GB9111549D0/en
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0476818A1 publication Critical patent/EP0476818A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A41F9/02—Expansible or adjustable belts or girdles ; Adjustable fasteners comprising a track and a slide member
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D05B35/066—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding for attaching small textile pieces, e.g. labels, belt loops

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of and apparatus for applying elastic material to garments.
  • one known method of applying elastic is that an elasticated band is initially applied to a garment blank in a flat or open condition.
  • the band is applied under tension so that on relaxation the fabric to which it is attached is ruched and thereby enables the band to expand when the garment is being worn.
  • the garment blank is then completed into tubular form by seaming opposed side edges with an overlocked stitched seam.
  • a problem with this type of manufacture is that the seamed edges which join the elasticated band extend transversely across the band and so protrude. This can be unsightly and uncomfortable for the wearer.
  • Another well known method of applying elastic is first forming a continuous loop of the material, applying a loop of elastic material at the upper edge of the loop to form the waistband and then finishing the garment.
  • the elastic is applied by cutting a length of elastic material, stitching the ends of the length together to form a loop and then stitching the loop of elastic material to the loop of garment material.
  • the disadvantage associated with this prior art method is that there are three operations involved, i.e. cutting the elastic, forming the elastic into a loop and applying the elastic loop to the garment, all of which make the garment more expensive to produce.
  • a method of forming an elasticated portion in a garment comprising securing one end of a length of elastic material in face to face contact to a marginal portion of the garment material, progressively securing the length whilst under tension along the portion of the garment material, severing the length of elastic material from its supply so that a finite length of elastic is applied to the garment material and holding under tension the unsecured portion of the finite length whilst it is being secured to the garment material.
  • the method includes feeding the length of elastic material to lie on or under the garment material and holding the cut end of the supply of elastic material for use with a subsequent piece of garment material.
  • the method also includes metering the length of elastic material from beneath the securing area.
  • the method further includes forming an opening in a substantially completed garment, securing one end of the length of elastic material in face to face contact to a marginal portion of the garment surrounding the opening, severing the length of elastic material to form a finite length and securing the finite length under tension to the garment until a portion of the finite length of elastic material, including the other end, overlaps said one end to provide an elasticated portion in the form of an elasticated band.
  • the present invention also provides apparatus for applying elastic material to a portion of garment material comprising securing means, means for feeding a strip of elastic material to lie on or under the garment material to enable the elastic material to be progressively secured by the securing means in face to face contact to a marginal portion of the garment material until a required length of elastic material is secured to the garment material, a cutting device for cutting the elastic material from its supply to form a finite length, and a tension holder for holding the unsecured portion of the cut finite length under tension whilst the securing operation is being completed.
  • the apparatus includes programmable electronic metering means for metering the elastic material from beneath the securing means and for holding the cut end of the supply of elastic material for use with the subsequent piece of garment material.
  • the apparatus also includes feed means for simultaneously feeding the length of elastic material and garment marginal portion passed the securing means, the feed means being arranged to pull the elastic material past the tension holder located immediately upstream of the securing means, the tension holder being engageable with the length of elastic material to resist its longitudinal movement and thereby generate tension in the length of elastic material between the feed means and the tension holder so that the the length of elastic material is secured to the marginal portion under tension.
  • the length of elastic material is supplied to the securing means from a continuous length stored for example on a reel, the metering means being provided upstream of the tension holder and arranged positively to feed the continuous length of elastic material toward the securing means at a slower rate than said feed means to thereby tension the length of elastic material located between the metering means and the feed means, the tension holder being selectively actuatable to grip or release the length of elastic material to isolate respectively the metering means from the feed means or enable the metering means to apply tension to the length of elastic material.
  • the tension holder comprises a movable clamp head and a platform, the clamp head being movable towards and away from the platform respectively, between an elastic gripping position and an elastic release position.
  • the clamp head is in the form of a recessed plate which defines a grip edge at one end for engaging the elastic material, the plate being fixedly mounted on a pivotable shaft having biassing means for moving the plate to the release position and piston means operable against a lever coupled to the shaft for moving the plate to the gripping position.
  • a static guide plate having a channel is provided for guiding the edges of the length of elastic material towards the grip edge, the guide plate extending within the recess of the clamp plate up to close proximity with the grip edge.
  • the invention further provides a garment having an elasticated opening defined by a band of elastic material secured by one or more longitudinally extending lines of stitching in face to face contact with a marginal portion of the garment surrounding the opening, the band having a join region defined by a first end secured in face to face contact to the marginal portion and a second end which overlaps and is secured in face to face contact to the band adjacent the first end and additionally to the garment, whereby the join region has at least two overlapping lines of stitching secured to the garment material.
  • the garment is folded about the lower edge of the elasticated band and the elasticated band is secured in face to face contact to a further marginal portion of the garment material to form a tunnelled waistband.
  • the garment has a lining secured thereto with the band of elastic material.
  • the invention also provides a garment having an elasticated portion defined by a finite length of elastic material secured by one or more longitudinally extending lines of stitching in face to face contact to a marginal portion of the garment material, the finite length of elastic material being secured to the garment material under tension between its first end and its remote second end.
  • a garment blank 20 for forming a pair of shorts such as boxer shorts.
  • the blank 20 is cut from a desirable material, preferably a woven fabric and has leg forming portions 21 and a waist opening forming edge portion 22.
  • the blank 20 is folded to bring opposed end edges 26 into contact and the edges 26 are joined together by sewing, usually by an overlock machine, to produce a seam 30.
  • the garment now has a waist opening 31 and in accordance with the present invention, an elasticated band 32 is secured in face to face contact to a marginal portion 33 of the garment surrounding the waist opening 31.
  • the band 32 is secured to the garment whilst in a tensioned condition (i.e. stretched condition) so that on relaxation, the fabric of the marginal portion 33 is ruched thereby enabling the band to stretch when the garment is being worn.
  • the band 32 is secured to the garment blank such that one end portion 35 overlies and is in face to face contact with the other end portion 36.
  • the band 32 is secured to the fabric by a pair of lines of stitching 37, 38 which extend longitudinally of the band and which also secure the end portions 35, 36 to one another. Accordingly, no seams are provided extending transversely through the end portions 35, 36 and as a consequence the join 40 at the opposed ends of the band is relatively flat. It will be appreciated that any desired number of longitudinally extending lines of stitching may be provided for securing the band to the garment.
  • the end portion 35 is preferably applied and secured whilst in a tensioned condition such that the elasticated band 32 provides elastication around the entire periphery of the waist opening 31.
  • the apparatus 50 includes a sewing station 51 at which the band 32 is secured to the marginal portion 33.
  • the sewing station 51 is defined by a sewing machine including twin needles 53, a platform 55 and a presser foot 56. Feed dogs (not shown) are located beneath the presser foot 56 for feeding the marginal portion and band past the needles 53.
  • a tension roller 59 Downstream of the sewing station 51 is a tension roller 59 which is driven by the sewing machine in synchronism with the feed dogs.
  • the purpose of the roller 59 is to maintain the band located between itself and the sewing needles 56 in a stretched condition so as to enable satisfactory stitching to be achieved.
  • the rate of feed of the roller 59 and the feed dogs is therefore preferably the same.
  • the roller 59 is located above the platform 55 so as to define a nip region 60 therebetween for engaging the marginal portion and band.
  • the roller 59 preferably has a periphery adapted to frictionally engage the fabric passing through the nip region.
  • the periphery may be provided with ribs and/or be formed from a material having a high co-efficient of friction.
  • the band 32 is positively fed from a continuous length-supply by metering device 62 having a pair of nip rollers 63.
  • the nip rollers 63 are preferably driven by an electric stepper motor (not shown) which is controllable to provide the desired tension.
  • the motor is arranged to drive the rollers in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction to increase or decrease tension in the band being applied to the sewing machine. During sewing, the motor is controlled to rotate the rollers in synchronism with the feed of the sewing machine in order to maintain the desired tension.
  • a severing means 70 located between the sewing station 51 and metering device 61 and a tension holder 80 located between the cutting means 70 and the sewing station 51.
  • the tension holder 80 is preferably in the form of a movable clamp head 82 located above the platform 55.
  • the clamp head 82 is movable between a band engaged position whereat the clamp head 82 in co-operation with the platform 55 grips the band 32 and a band disengaged position whereat the clamp head 82 is spaced from the platform so as not to grip the band.
  • the clamp head 82 is in the form of a recessed plate 84 which defines a grip edge 85 at one end for engaging the band 32. Accordingly, it is possible for the grip edge 85 to be located in close proximity to the presser foot 56 at the sewing station 51.
  • the plate 84 is fixedly mounted on a pivoting shaft 88 which is biased by for example a spring 83 in one direction for moving the plate to the disengaged position and which is moved in the opposite direction by a pneumatic piston 89 operating on a lever 90 fixed to shaft 88.
  • a pneumatic piston 89 operating on a lever 90 fixed to shaft 88.
  • the severing means 70 is preferably in the form of a movable blade 71 which is pivotally mounted at one end and which co-operates with a static blade 72 for severing the band 32.
  • the static blade 72 includes a slit 73 through which the band is guided and the blade 71 is preferably moved across the static blade 72 in scissor-like fashion by a pneumatic piston 75 to co-operate with an opposed edge of the slit to sever the band.
  • Clamp 82 is now operated to move to its band engaged position and the metering device 62 is operated to feed band 32.
  • the band 32 between the clamp 82 and the metering device 62 is now fully relaxed and the band 32 between the clamp 82 and feed roller 59 is still held under tension.
  • the severing means 70 is now operated to sever the band 32. After severance, the sewing machine is operated causing the band 32 to be pulled through the clamp 82, the drag imposed on the band 32 by the clamp 82 serving to maintain the desired tension in the band.
  • the end of the band 32 emerges from the clamp 82 and as a consequence the length of the band in between the presser foot 56 and the clamp contracts before being sewn.
  • the point at which this happens is chosen such that the join 40 has already been made so that elastication around the waist opening is not affected.
  • the length of band released from the clamp 82 is relatively short since the grip edge 85 is located in close proximity to the presser foot and so does not present a problem for correct guiding to the sewing machine.
  • a static guide plate 95 is provided.
  • the guide plate 95 extends within the recess 84a of clamp plate 84 up to close proximity with the grip edge 85.
  • the guide plate 95 includes a channel 96 which is preferably of the same width as the band when relaxed. In this way the band is positively guided along both edges. It is envisaged that different guide plates 95 would be provided having differing widths of channel in order to accommodate different widths of band.
  • the clamp plate 84 and guide plate 95 also serve as a support surface for the marginal portion for shielding the marginal portion from the band until reaching the sewing station.
  • the sequence of operation is as follows: The cycle is started by an operative back-treadling the sewing machine causing the presser foot 56 and the roller 59 to be raised.
  • the operative then sews to the cutting position and stops, at which point the clamp 82 automatically drops onto the band and then the operator operates a control to cause the metering device 62 to release the tension, and simultaneously causes both the clamp 82 to be retained in the engaged position and the cutter to operate.
  • the sequence is then completed by the operative sewing to the cut end of the band and back-treadling to remove the garment and thereby re-start the sequence, by automatically feeding in the band (elastic) to the presser foot.
  • Sequencing control of the clamp 82, metering device 62 and cutter 70 is achieved via a programmable electronic control means (not shown) which senses the motor position of the sensing machine via an encoder.
  • a garment with an elasticated band attached may be folded about the lower edge of the elasticated band and the elasticated band secured, most conveniently by a seam covering machine, in face to face contact to a further marginal portion of the garment to form a tunnelled waistband.
  • Seam covering is a type of stitching used in the garment industry in which two parallel rows of stitching are continuously looped by a third covering thread so that a multiplicity of short lengths of thread extend between the two parallel rows of stitching. The rows of stitching applied during the elastication process prevent the elastic material from twisting within the tunnel.
  • An inner lining material may be attached during the elastication process.
  • the lining can be attached with one or more rows of stitching, then pushed down into the garment and seam covered, if required.
  • discrete lengths of elastic material may be attached to any portion of a garment rather than using an entire loop or length of elastic material.
  • the discrete length can be controlled under tension by the tension holder 80. In this way, elastication can be applied to only the portion or portions of the garment where it is required, thus resulting in a saving of elastic material.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
EP91307137A 1990-08-03 1991-08-02 Verbesserung eines Verfahren und einer Vorrichtung zum Anbringen von elastischen Bändern an Kleidung Withdrawn EP0476818A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IE281190 1990-08-03
IE281190 1990-08-03
GB919111549A GB9111549D0 (en) 1991-05-29 1991-05-29 Band seamer
GB9111549 1991-05-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0476818A1 true EP0476818A1 (de) 1992-03-25

Family

ID=26298970

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP91307137A Withdrawn EP0476818A1 (de) 1990-08-03 1991-08-02 Verbesserung eines Verfahren und einer Vorrichtung zum Anbringen von elastischen Bändern an Kleidung

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0476818A1 (de)
JP (1) JPH04357995A (de)

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2260144B (en) * 1991-10-03 1995-12-06 El Sew Con Ltd Control system for elastic or trims
US5602747A (en) * 1995-01-31 1997-02-11 Kimberly-Clark Corporation Controlling web tension by actively controlling velocity of dancer roll
US6314333B1 (en) 1998-07-03 2001-11-06 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method and apparatus for controlling web tension by actively controlling velocity and acceleration of a dancer roll
DE10023537A1 (de) * 2000-05-13 2001-11-22 Schips Ag Naehautomation Tueba Verfahren zum Betrieb einer Nähmaschine mit Elastikband-Zuführung und eine danach arbeitende Nähmaschine
US6473669B2 (en) 1998-07-03 2002-10-29 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Controlling web tension, and accumulating lengths of web, by actively controlling velocity and acceleration of a festoon
US6856850B2 (en) 1998-07-03 2005-02-15 Kimberly Clark Worldwide, Inc. Controlling web tension, and accumulating lengths of web, using a festoon
CN102899816A (zh) * 2011-07-26 2013-01-30 吕学忠 弹性带状料绷紧装置
TWI640667B (zh) * 2017-06-20 2018-11-11 高林股份有限公司 用於自動化縫紉設備的送布裝置
US10834974B2 (en) 2010-12-31 2020-11-17 0912139 B.C. Ltd. Garments for men
US11272744B2 (en) 2020-02-25 2022-03-15 0912139 B.C. Ltd. Male garment

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1041071A (en) * 1963-04-10 1966-09-01 R & W H Symington And Company Improvements in or relating to attaching elastic strips to textile material
GB1406822A (en) * 1972-06-21 1975-09-17 Automatic Braiding Co Garments
US3964410A (en) * 1975-01-24 1976-06-22 Boser Ronald J Elastic inserter for a sewing machine
GB1445391A (en) * 1973-04-02 1976-08-11 Automatic Braiding Co Manufacture of garments
EP0165380A1 (de) * 1984-03-20 1985-12-27 Helmut Schips Nähmaschine
DE3638989C1 (en) * 1986-11-14 1988-02-11 Texpa Arbter Maschb Gmbh Apparatus for making at least one hem on a cloth material having a sewn-in tape, especially rubber tape
EP0279749A2 (de) * 1987-02-17 1988-08-24 Denis Plante Zuführungs- und Spannvorrichtung von elastischem Band für eine Nähmaschine

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1041071A (en) * 1963-04-10 1966-09-01 R & W H Symington And Company Improvements in or relating to attaching elastic strips to textile material
GB1406822A (en) * 1972-06-21 1975-09-17 Automatic Braiding Co Garments
GB1445391A (en) * 1973-04-02 1976-08-11 Automatic Braiding Co Manufacture of garments
US3964410A (en) * 1975-01-24 1976-06-22 Boser Ronald J Elastic inserter for a sewing machine
EP0165380A1 (de) * 1984-03-20 1985-12-27 Helmut Schips Nähmaschine
DE3638989C1 (en) * 1986-11-14 1988-02-11 Texpa Arbter Maschb Gmbh Apparatus for making at least one hem on a cloth material having a sewn-in tape, especially rubber tape
EP0279749A2 (de) * 1987-02-17 1988-08-24 Denis Plante Zuführungs- und Spannvorrichtung von elastischem Band für eine Nähmaschine

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2260144B (en) * 1991-10-03 1995-12-06 El Sew Con Ltd Control system for elastic or trims
US5602747A (en) * 1995-01-31 1997-02-11 Kimberly-Clark Corporation Controlling web tension by actively controlling velocity of dancer roll
US5659229A (en) * 1995-01-31 1997-08-19 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Controlling web tension by actively controlling velocity of dancer roll
US6314333B1 (en) 1998-07-03 2001-11-06 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method and apparatus for controlling web tension by actively controlling velocity and acceleration of a dancer roll
US6473669B2 (en) 1998-07-03 2002-10-29 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Controlling web tension, and accumulating lengths of web, by actively controlling velocity and acceleration of a festoon
US6856850B2 (en) 1998-07-03 2005-02-15 Kimberly Clark Worldwide, Inc. Controlling web tension, and accumulating lengths of web, using a festoon
DE10023537A1 (de) * 2000-05-13 2001-11-22 Schips Ag Naehautomation Tueba Verfahren zum Betrieb einer Nähmaschine mit Elastikband-Zuführung und eine danach arbeitende Nähmaschine
US10834974B2 (en) 2010-12-31 2020-11-17 0912139 B.C. Ltd. Garments for men
CN102899816A (zh) * 2011-07-26 2013-01-30 吕学忠 弹性带状料绷紧装置
CN102899816B (zh) * 2011-07-26 2014-05-07 吕学忠 弹性带状料绷紧装置
TWI640667B (zh) * 2017-06-20 2018-11-11 高林股份有限公司 用於自動化縫紉設備的送布裝置
US11272744B2 (en) 2020-02-25 2022-03-15 0912139 B.C. Ltd. Male garment

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Publication number Publication date
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