EP0262700B1 - Method of producing a kit for manufacturing articles of clothing at home and kit for manufacturing an article of clothing - Google Patents

Abstract

A garment kit and method of assembly thereof for sale to a consumer-wearer, for the self assembly of a garment by the consumer-wearer, said kit including a partially prefabricated garment comprising a precut fabric dimensioned to cover a plurality of sizes; said precut fabric being provided with attachment markings thereon corresponding to said plurality of sizes; and said precut fabric already being provided with at least one substantially finished detail. Additionally, a measurement system for the production of both garment kits and fully fabricated garments, wherein a range of sizes, each of which is determined by a plurality of measurements, is divided into subranges, with one of the measurements being maintained substantially constant over the sizes of a subrange. Preferably the subranges overlap.

Description

The invention relates to a method for producing an industrially manufactured kit for the self-manufacture of items of clothing, such as coats, pants, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, by the consumer, with an item of clothing initially being industrially tailored and partially processed by optionally using cut parts processed reinforcements with finished seams that can no longer be changed, with fasteners and with ingredients in an industrial prefabrication and then the components of the garment are sandwiched together in the form of a package, from which the consumer uses the components of the package to assemble the components connects as intended and completes the garment.

Furthermore, the invention relates to a set of components for the production of clothing by the consumer.

A common industrial production of garments is the full production from the sketch over the cut and the subsequent cut to the finishing and the final ironing. In this case, the consumer is obliged to make only a selection in the catalog or business of the articles located or shown there, but without being involved in any way in the production itself. For this, he pays with a much higher price compared to self-made.

Furthermore, the self-sewing of clothing of all kinds is known with the procurement of the pattern, the self-production of the cut, the procurement of all ingredients and the self-production.

However, these activities not only require special manual dexterity on the part of the consumer, they also require special knowledge of how to create a cut, the course of the thread of the different materials or the elongation value of knitted or active substances, and the integration of the closure elements, such as B. zippers, buttons, etc. These requirements consequently keep many consumers from making their own clothing despite the associated cost savings compared to finished products. In addition, the consumer must also have suitable devices and devices as well as the corresponding premises at home, which allow him to carry out all measures from cutting to sewing the various cut parts without major difficulties.

From DE-A 2 345 118 it is already known to apply a pattern to a fabric and also to provide the individual parts which have already been cut out with fixing inserts. It is also provided that individual parts are stitched together before the kit is put together.

CH-A-464 125 discloses a component set in which cut and also trimmed, i.e. H. pre-processed fabric parts with ingredients are included. Only one size is assumed.

FR-A-2 501 477 discloses a kit with cut parts for a clothing size with all accessories, the attachment of lining and stiffeners in individual cut parts already being made as part of a prefabrication. FR-A-1 336 240 and US Pat. No. 2 211 410 also disclose a set of components in which three clothing sizes recorded on cut parts are marked with individual dimension lines and all dimension points change proportionally from one size to another. The cut parts are packed in a set with accessories so that a set of components is created.

The invention has for its object a variable size code over three sizes, a process for the industrial prefabrication of clothing with a very specific industrially practiced sequence for this product and a set of components for self-made clothing items of all To create art for women, men and children by the consumer, which on the one hand leaves the cost advantage of the complete self-production to the consumer, on the other hand neither devices, machines, nor manufacturing and material knowledge from the consumer and which requires the consumer to adapt to individual Allow variations of his clothing size.

As for the solution of the procedural part of this task, it consists in the features listed in the characterizing part of claim 1.

This combination of several interlocking and complementary manufacturing steps includes the possibility of creating a garment that is maximally usable and easy to complete for the consumer with a minimum of industrial pre-production (max. 30%).

A component system enables the consumer to make an optimally fitting garment for himself, even with a difficult figure that does not have standard dimensions in terms of clothing, and to measure the dimensions, e.g. B. between waist and hip or between chest and waist over a range of three sizes, d. H. in the area of rapidly changing dimensions. In addition, he can choose and order different sizes for tops and bottoms for combination items (blouses, pants, skirts, jackets), which gives him further optimal fit advantages.

• a) Die Jacke kann sie nunmehr in den Größen 36 - 38 - 40 nach ihrer individuellen Größe fertigen, weil entsprechende Maßzugaben in den einzelnen Schnitteilen enthalten sind.
• b) Der Rock Gr. 40 ist variabel in Gr. 38 - 40 - 42 zu fertigen.

In practice it looks like this:
A consumer orders two pieces of combination clothing on the basis of the dimensions determined using a combination tape measure; in fact
1 jacket size 38 - 1 skirt size. 40

• a) The jacket can now be produced in sizes 36 - 38 - 40 according to your individual size, because appropriate measurements are included in the individual cut parts.
• b) The skirt Gr. 40 is variable in size 38 - 40 - 42 to manufacture.

Taking into account the determined body measurements, she looks for the corresponding seam markings and sews the parts together.

In the event of changes in body size, each article can be separated at any time and changed to a new size using the existing material additions.

The key point of the method according to the invention is the knowledge that those components of a piece of clothing are industrially prefabricated which change only slightly over the clothing sizes recorded and which on the one hand require difficult and important work processes which also require special knowledge of material processing and on the other Side but are particularly suitable for industrial prefabrication, especially machine manufacturing. This proportion of the prefabrication is between 20 and 30% including the cut compared to the full assembly. The consumer is only responsible for the activities that do not require any special experience in the manufacture of clothing and which are essentially limited to adapting to its dimensions, assembling, in particular sewing, gluing, welding, pressing and ironing the individual items. The consumer thus saves a number of work steps compared to conventional self-production, which usually require special training.

A very particularly great advantage results from the use of several, for. B. two or three measurement systems for a corresponding number of clothing sizes, since the consumer can take into account his individual dimensions deviating from a clothing size when finishing the item of clothing.

A particular advantage of the method according to the invention can be seen in the fact that, on the one hand, the consumer saves time and money, without, however, having to do manual work - e.g. B. as a leisure time - to have to do without and that he gets on the other hand pre-, intermediate and finished processed cut parts with closure elements and ingredients that he can adapt to his individual size and with the necessary expertise of manufacturing and material manufactured industrially and can be made available inexpensively.

The overall procedure is as follows:
After individual sketches of clothing such as coats, pants, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, a color and quality coordinated and complementary collection of women's, men's or children's fashion is developed in the styling and the matching fabrics in color and material themes fixed. Technical details are then derived from these styling sketches and drawn separately, which form the template for the later cut parts.

From the sketch created in each case, a basic cut in size 38 is then developed, which represents the basis for all other sizes. A so-called blank is then pre-sewn in order to be able to correct any defects in the cutting process when trying on. Necessary changes are made immediately on the basic cut. The cut parts are compared with the cut sketches and details or changes are added.

Now every model is sewn in the original fabric to ensure that the cut and fabric harmonize optimally with the finished part. Any necessary corrections can then be made to the cut.

All work processes are cataloged and the processes defined, specifically according to work steps of industrial prefabrication and home-made, drawer and copywriter finally coordinate the drawings and the assembly instructions.

In parallel to the production of cuts, the grading of the other sizes and the combination of several measurement systems in one cut is carried out in order to be able to offer a ready-made part in all common sizes. After the size sets have been approved and checked, B. stored on a cut copier. In this way, depending on the size requested, appropriate layers can be copied out and cut out on the cutting table. The Cut parts are cleaned and special parts are fed to further operations. Such operations can be, for example, the ironing of inserts or the pre-sewing of pocket interventions. Pre-assembled small parts can also be delivered, such as belt loops, appliqués, pleats, collars, cuffs, embroidery and slit seams, belts, bags and waistbands.

All components including the ingredients such as yarn, zippers, buttons and inserts and the respective assembly instructions are finally brought together in a package ready for dispatch.

The consumer who orders such a package from a catalog or chooses a special depot can then start assembling the components immediately using the assembly instructions. To do this, the consumer only needs a minimum of the knowledge that he should have acquired using conventional methods of self-production. He also does not need any special equipment or special premises. In principle, a simple sewing machine, the operation of which is easy to learn, is sufficient.

The method according to the invention combines in a particularly skillful way the advantages of industrial production with those of in-house production at minimal cost and a good fit with the consumer having an own size between 70 and 80%. It enables the self-production of fashionable clothing in a short amount of time with an optimal, cost-effective division into the industrial prefabrication area on the one hand and the self-made area on the other.

The set of components characterized in claim 2 can, for. B. are offered in film-like transparent packaging. However, other known forms of presentation are also conceivable, such as cardboard, bags, rolls, etc.

In this context, the respective offer can be supplemented by the features of claim 3 if necessary.

The combination measuring tape used for the individual size adjustment is specially designed so that the consumer can read off his clothing size and the size measured in cm.

Fig. 1

einen Komponentensatz für eine Bundfaltenhose ohne Zutaten und Nähgarn;

Fig. 2 bis 12

verschiedene Situationen der industriellen Nähsatzvorfertigung einer Bundfaltenhose;

Fig. 13 bis 28

diverse Situationen der manuellen Nähsatzendfertigung einer Bundfaltenhose;

Fig. 29

die Rückansicht und

Fig. 30

die Vorderansicht der fertigen Bundfaltenhose.

The invention is explained below with reference to an embodiment shown in the drawings. Show it

Fig. 1

a set of components for pleated trousers without ingredients and sewing thread;

2 to 12

different situations of industrial sewing kit prefabrication of pleated trousers;

13 to 28

various situations of manual sewing kit production of pleated trousers;

Fig. 29

the rear view and

Fig. 30

the front view of the finished pleated trousers.

1 shows the various components and the layer pattern 1 to 15 of a pair of pleated trousers.

In industrial prefabrication, the two front pants 2, 4 and the two rear pants 1, 3 are provided with all-round seams 16. This is a small-scale production (preprocessing). Each cut part contains 3 sizes, with the middle line the ideal size z. B. represents size 38. The inner line corresponds to size 36, the outer line to size 40. Since the parts have been sealed, it is recommended not to cut off the excess width of the dimensional allowance 16a, but to leave it in the size change for eventualities.

Following this (Fig. 4), the inserts 17 are ironed onto the waistband parts 9. It can also be seen from FIG. 4 that the bottom edge 18 of the collar is cleaned on the inside. These measures are a medium-sized production (intermediate processing). The vario waistband enables the buttonhole 18a to be prefabricated on the waistband.

1 and 5 are finished by overcasting, sewing, cutting and ironing.

Fig. 2 shows that the two front pants 2, 4 are sewn together at the front middle part 19 to the snap 20. This is again a small-scale production.

The attachment of the inserts 10, 11 to the pocket openings 21 can be seen from FIG. 3. Here, the inserts 10, 11 are first ironed on and then the pocket edges are ironed. It can also be seen from FIG. 3 that the two zipper edge covers 22 are ironed over.

6, the zipper 23 is sewn in with a two-needle machine.

FIG. 7 shows the sewing in of a lower pocket cloth document 5 onto a feed pocket part 8 and the binding 24. A pocket bag 25 is created.

8, both pocket bags 25 are placed on top of one another and closed all around with Safety 26.

From FIGS. 8 to 12 it can then still be seen that the pocket bags 25 are sewn to the pocket opening 21 with safety 26. FIG. 11 is a view of the right side of the front pants 2, 4 and FIG. 12 is a view of the left side of the front pants 2, 4.

The industrial prefabrication is now complete. This product is made available to the consumer in the form of a DIY kit.

After the consumer has opened the kit and studied the assembly instructions, he will first use the dimension table to determine the appropriate size seam of the Vario system in order to achieve his optimal size and fit in the garment when it is put together. 13, the pre-sewn zipper 23 is provided with two stitching seams 27 and locked by a transverse seam 28.

Following this, the pleats 29 are pinned by means of needles 31 after marking 30 and then the belt loops 12-15 between the folds 29 laid (Fig. 15). The belt loops 12-15 are then attached by means of a seam 32.

16, the next step is that quilting seams 33 are attached to the top edge of the pocket openings 21.

Then double seams 34 are placed on the connection between the pocket bags 25 and the zipper slip 22 (FIG. 17).

Now, four short seams 35 according to FIG. 18 are to be made in order to connect the pocket bags 25 at the waist and on the side to the front pants 2, 4.

19, two short seams 36 are then to be made in order to sew belt loops 12-15 onto the rear pants 1, 3.

Now, according to FIG. 20, the front pants 2, 4 and the rear pants 1, 3 are sewn together on the sides 37 and in step 38. Short incisions help as markings here, which ensure that counterparts fit exactly on top of one another.

After the front trousers 2, 4 and the rear trousers 1, 3 have been sewn together, the seat seam 39 is closed and locked according to FIG. 21. Then all the seams created so far are ironed flat. This can also be seen from FIG. 21, for example.

Now the consumer has to attach two crash seams to the edges according to FIG. 22 on the waistband 9, iron the collar edges 41 according to the assembly instructions and iron the center 42 break (FIG. 23).

Then the collar 9, which is still open on the underside 43, is sewn onto the trouser waist seam 44 from the right, as shown in FIG. 24. Two hangers 45 are sewn on the sides.

25 shows that the collar 9 is then turned upwards. Then the inside of the waistband is inserted and stitched all around from the right side. As can also be seen in FIG. 26, the upper edge 46 of the waist is stitched all around from the right, the belt loops according to FIG. 15 are placed over the edge 9, the upper edge of the loop is folded in 1 cm and quilted onto the edge 9.

The button 47 is then attached to the collar 9 in accordance with the waist measurements of the consumer (see also FIG. 26).

27 and 28 show that now the hem of the pants 48 is sewn inwards after the longitudinal dimensions have been determined.

The finished pant 49 (Fig. 29 and 30) is now turned from the outside in and all remaining seams are ironed out; then the trousers are ironed from the right side.

The variation of the adjustment of the longitudinal seams to the body size of the consumer explained above also applies accordingly to the adjustment of transverse seams and length dimensions.

Although the processing process was explained above with the help of a pair of trousers, the same applies to all types of clothing. Differences arise only from the article-specific processing sequence.

Claims (4)

1. Method of producing an industrially manufactured kit for making articles of clothing, such as coats, trousers, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, at home by the user wherein an article of clothing is first industrially cut to size with regard to its components (1-15, 23, 47) and partially processed by providing cut portions (1-4, 7, 8) optionally with attached reinforcements (10, 11) with finished seams which are not to be altered, with closure elements (23, 47) and with linings and trimmings in an industrial prefabrication process and subsequently the components of the article of clothing are assembled in the manner of a sandwich in the form of a package from which the user connects the components (1-15, 23, 47) in accordance with assembly instructions on the basis of the components of the package and completes the article of clothing,
   characterised in that

   - dimensional markings are applied to the individual cut portions of a package for two or three sizes only for considerably differing dimensions,

   - that no dimensional marking is applied to the cut portions for dimensions which differ scarcely or not at all for the corresponding number of sizes,

   - that in the industrial prefabrication process, those processes are performed which differ not at all or only slightly in the sizes which are included or represent difficult working operations for the user, and that the user measures his size and marks the corresponding dimensional marks on the cut portions before connecting the portions in accordance with the instructions into the article of clothing.
2. Kit for making articles of clothing in accordance with the method as claimed in Claim 1, wherein

   - industrially prefabricated components (1-15, 23-47) of an article of clothing, which are matched to one another in cut, material and colour, are assembled in the manner of a set in the form of a package, wherein further the components in the form of cut portions carry dimensional markings for two or three sizes only for considerably differing dimensions and wherein the same cut portions carry no dimensional marking on the cut portions for dimensions which differ slightly or not at all for the corresponding number of sizes.
3. Kit as claimed in Claim 2, wherein

   - accessories are integrated into the package.
4. Kit as claimed in Claim 2, wherein

   - a combination measuring tape is included in the kit.

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