EP0262700A2 - Method of producing a kit for manufacturing articles of clothing at home and kit for manufacturing an article of clothing - Google Patents

Abstract

A garment kit and method of assembly thereof for sale to a consumer-wearer, for the self assembly of a garment by the consumer-wearer, said kit including a partially prefabricated garment comprising a precut fabric dimensioned to cover a plurality of sizes; said precut fabric being provided with attachment markings thereon corresponding to said plurality of sizes; and said precut fabric already being provided with at least one substantially finished detail. Additionally, a measurement system for the production of both garment kits and fully fabricated garments, wherein a range of sizes, each of which is determined by a plurality of measurements, is divided into subranges, with one of the measurements being maintained substantially constant over the sizes of a subrange. Preferably the subranges overlap.

Description

On the one hand, the invention relates to a variable size system for three sizes for the self-production of clothing of all kinds for women, men and children by the consumer.

On the other hand, the invention is directed to a set of components for the self-production of such an item of clothing by the consumer. Furthermore, the invention enables a method for the self-production of clothing according to a specially determined, product-specific sequence in the pre-production.

Manufacturing a type of clothing of any type and shape is industrial full production from the sketch to the cut and the subsequent cut to the finishing and the final ironing. In this case, the consumer is obliged to make only a selection in the catalog or business of the articles located or shown there, but without having to lend a hand in one form. For this he pays with a much higher price than the self-made clothing.

Furthermore, the self-sewing of clothing of all kinds according to the principle of the pattern, the cutting, the procurement of all ingredients and the individual production is known.

Here, the consumer is first forced to choose the cut of the item of clothing he prefers, the fabric or knitwear, the lining, the yarn and the respective closure elements - possibly in different sales outlets - in several individual actions. At home, the consumer then has to cut, cut out the fabric or knitwear, insert the reinforcements and fasteners.

However, these activities not only require a special manual skill of the consumer, but also require special knowledge about the creation of a cut, about the thread course of the different materials or the elongation value of knitted or active ingredients, as well as the integration of the closure elements, such as. B. zippers, buttons, etc. These requirements consequently keep many consumers from making their own clothing despite the associated cost savings compared to finished products. In addition, the consumer must also have suitable devices and devices as well as the corresponding premises at home, which allow him to carry out all measures from cutting to sewing the various cut parts without major difficulties.

The invention has for its object to provide a variable size code over three sizes, a process for the self-production of clothing with a very specific industrially practiced sequence for this product and a set of components for the self-production of clothing of all kinds for women, men and children by the consumer , which on the one hand leaves the cost advantage of the complete in-house production to the consumer, on the other hand requires neither devices, machines, nor manufacturing and material knowledge from the consumer and which allow the consumer to adapt to individual variations of his clothing size.

As far as the solution of the procedural part of this problem is concerned, it consists of the features listed in the characterizing part of claim 1.

This combination of several interlocking and complementary product options includes the possibility of creating a garment that is maximally usable and easy to complete for the consumer with a minimum of industrial pre-production (max. 30%).

The Vario component system enables the consumer to produce an optimally fitting garment for himself, even with a difficult figure that does not have standard dimensions customary in the assembly. B. between waist and hips, or between chest and waist over a span of three sizes. In addition, he can choose and order different sizes for tops and bottoms for combination items (blouses, pants, skirts, jackets), which gives him further optimal fit advantages.

In practice it looks like this:

A consumer orders clothing based on the Vario clothing band, two pieces of combination clothing.

• a) Die Jacke kann sie nunmehr in den Größen 36 - 38 - 40 nach ihrer individuellen Größe fertigen, weil entsprechende Maßzugaben in den einzelnen Schnitteilen enthalten sind.
• b) Der Rock Gr. 40 ist variabel in Gr. 38 - 40 - 42 zu fertigen.

1 jacket size 38 - 1 skirt size. 40

• a) The jacket can now be produced in sizes 36 - 38 - 40 according to your individual size, because appropriate measurements are included in the individual cut parts.
• b) The skirt Gr. 40 is variable in size 38 - 40 - 42 to manufacture.

Important: In the event of changes in body size, each article can be separated at any time and changed to a new size using the existing material additions.

The key point of the method according to the invention is the knowledge that those components of a garment are industrially prefabricated which change only slightly over the clothing sizes recorded and which on the one hand require difficult and important work processes which also require special knowledge of material processing, and on on the other hand, they are particularly suitable for industrial prefabrication, in particular machine manufacturing. This proportion of the prefabrication is between 20 and 30% including the cut compared to the full assembly. The consumer is only responsible for the activities that do not require any special experience in the manufacture of clothing and which are essentially limited to adapting to its dimensions, assembling, especially sewing, gluing, welding, pressing, and ironing the individual items. The consumer thus saves a number of work steps compared to conventional self-production, which usually require special training.

A very particularly great advantage results from the use of several, for. B. two or three measurement systems for a corresponding number of clothing sizes, since the consumer can take into account his individual dimensions deviating from a clothing size when finishing the item of clothing.

A particular advantage of the method according to the invention can be seen in the fact that on the one hand the consumer saves time and money without, however, having to do manual work - e.g. as a leisure activity - to have to do without and that on the other hand he is provided with pre-processed, intermediate and finished cut parts with locking elements and ingredients that he can adapt to his individual size and that is manufactured industrially with the necessary expertise in manufacturing and material and can thus be made available at low cost.

The overall procedure is as follows:

After individual sketches of clothing, such as coats, pants, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, a color and quality coordinated and complementary collection of women's, men's or children's fashion is developed in the styling and the matching fabrics in color and material themes fixed. Technical details are then derived from these styling sketches; and drawn separately, which form the template for the later cut parts.

From the sketch created in each case, a basic cut in size 38 is then developed, which represents the basis for all other sizes. Subsequently, a so-called blank is pre-sewn in order to be able to correct any defects in the cutting process when trying on. Necessary changes are made immediately on the basic cut. The cut parts are compared with the cut sketches and details or changes are added.

Now every model is sewn in the original fabric to ensure that the cut and fabric harmonize optimally with the finished part. Any necessary corrections can then be made to the cut.

All work processes are cataloged and the workflows are defined, namely separately roof work processes of industrial prefabrication and home-made. Finally, the draftsman and copywriter coordinate the drawings and the assembly instructions.

In parallel to the production of cuts, the grading of the other sizes and the combination of several measurement systems in one cut is carried out in order to be able to offer a ready-made part in all common sizes. After approval and control of the size sets, these are e.g. stored on a cut copier. In this way, depending on the size requested, appropriate layers can be copied out and cut out on the visual table. The cut parts are cleaned and special parts are fed to further operations. Such operations can be, for example, the ironing of inserts or the pre-sewing of pocket interventions. Small parts can also be delivered pre-assembled, such as belt loops, appliqués, pleats, collars, cuffs, embroidery and slit seams, belts, bags and waistbands.

All components including the ingredients, such as yarn, zippers, buttons and inserts and the respective assembly instructions are finally combined in a set ready for dispatch.

The consumer who orders such a package from a catalog or chooses a special depot can then start assembling the components immediately using the assembly instructions. To do this, the consumer only needs a minimum of the knowledge that he should have acquired using conventional methods of self-production. He also does not need any special equipment or special premises. In principle, a simple sewing machine, the operation of which is easy to learn, is sufficient.

The method according to the invention combines in a particularly skillful manner the advantages of industrial production with those of in-house production at a minimal cost and a good fit with a consumer quota of between 70 and 80%. It enables the self-production of fashionable clothing in a short amount of time with an optimal, cost-effective allocation to the industrial pre-war area on the one hand and the self-made area on the other.

The component set characterized in claim 2 can e.g. in foil-like transparent packaging. Tobe offered. However, other known forms of presentation are also conceivable, such as cardboard, bags, rolls, etc.

In this context, the respective offer can be supplemented by the features of claim 3 if necessary.

The measuring tape used for the individual size adjustment is specially designed so that the consumer can read his clothing size and the size measured in cm.

• Fig. 1 einen Komponentensatz für eine Bundfaltenhose ohne Zutaten und Nähgarn;
• Fig. 2 bis 12 verschiedene Situationen der industriellen Nähsatzvorfertigung einer Bundfaltenhose;
• Fig. 13 bis 28 diverse Situationen der manuellen Nähsatzendfertigung einer Bundfaltenhose;
• Fig. 29 die Rückansicht und
• Fig. 30 die Vorderansicht der fertigen Bundfaltenhose.

The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to an embodiment shown in the drawings. Show it:

• 1 shows a set of components for pleated trousers without ingredients and sewing thread;
• 2 to 12 different situations of industrial sewing kit prefabrication of pleated trousers;
• 13 to 28 various situations of manual sewing kit finishing of pleated trousers;
• 29 is the rear view and
• 30 shows the front view of the finished pleated trousers.

In Figure 1, the various components and the layers ₁ to 15 of a pleated trousers are illustrated.

In industrial prefabrication, the two front pants 2, 4 and the two rear pants 1, 3 are provided with all-round seams 16. This is a small-scale production (preprocessing). Each cut part contains 3 sizes, the middle line being the ideal size e.g. of size 38. The inner line corresponds to size 36, the outer line to size 40. Since the parts have been sealed, it is recommended not to cut off the excess width of dimension allowance 16a, but to leave it to change in size for contingencies.

Following this (Fig. 4), the inserts 17 are ironed onto the waistband parts 9. It can also be seen from FIG. 4 that the bottom edge 18 of the collar is cleaned on the inside. These measures are a medium-sized production (intermediate processing). The vario waistband enables the buttonhole 18a to be prefabricated on the waistband.

The collar loops 12-15 according to FIGS. 1 and 5 are finished by overcasting, sewing, cutting and ironing.

Fig. 2 shows that the two front pants 2, 4 are sewn together at the front middle part 19 to the snap 20. This is again a small-scale production.

The attachment of the inserts 10, 11 to the pocket openings 21 can be seen from FIG. 3. Here, the inserts 10, 11 are first ironed on and then the pocket edges are ironed. It can also be seen from FIG. 3 that the two zipper edge covers 22 are ironed over.

6, the zipper 23 is sewn in with a two-needle machine.

FIG. 7 shows the sewing in of a lower pocket cloth document 5 onto a feed pocket part 8 and the binding 24. A feed pocket part 25 is created.

8, the two parts of the feed bag 25 are then placed one on top of the other and closed all around with Safety 26.

When looking at FIGS. 9 to 12 it can still be seen that the pocket bags 25 are sewn to the pocket opening 21 with safety 26. FIG. 11 is a view of the right side of the front pants 2, 4 and FIG. 12 is a view of the left side of the front pants 2, 4.

The industrial prefabrication is now complete. This product is made available to the consumer in the form of a set pack for self-production.

After the consumer has opened the set pack and studied the assembly instructions, he will first use the table of dimensions to determine the appropriate size seam of the Vario system in order to achieve his optimal size and fit in the garment when it is put together. Then, according to FIG. 13, the pre-sewn zipper 23 is provided with two quilting seams 27 and locked by a transverse seam 28.

Following this, the pleats 29 are pinned according to marking 30 by means of needles 31 and then the belt loops 12-15 are placed between the pleats 29 (FIG. 15). Following this, the Gürtelsch ^- run 12-15 attached by a seam 32nd

16, the next step is that quilting seams 33 are attached to the top edge of the pocket openings 21.

Then double seams 34 are placed on the connection between the pocket bags 25 and the zipper slip 22 (FIG. 17).

Now, four short seams 35 according to FIG. 18 are to be made in order to connect the pocket bags 25 at the waist and on the side to the front pants 2, 4.

19, two short seams 36 are then to be made in order to sew belt loops 12-15 onto the rear trousers 1, 3.

Now, according to FIG. 20, the front pants 2, 4 and the rear pants 1, 3 are sewn together on the sides 37 and in step 38. Short incisions help as markings here, which ensure that counterparts fit exactly on top of one another.

After the front trousers 2, 4 and the rear trousers 1, 3 have been sewn together, the seat seam 39 is closed and locked according to FIG. 21. Then all the seams created so far are ironed flat. This can also be seen from FIG. 21, for example.

22 on the waistband 9 has to make two creasing seams on the edges, iron the collar edges 41 according to the assembly instructions and iron the center 42 breakage (FIG. 23).

Then the collar 9, which is still open on the underside 43, is sewn onto the trouser waist seam 44 from the right, as shown in FIG. 24. Two hangers 45 are sewn on the sides.

25 shows that the collar 9 is then turned upwards. Then the inside of the waistband is inserted and stitched all around from the right side. As can also be seen in FIG. 26, the top edge 46 is stitched all around from the right, the belt loops according to FIG. 15 are placed over the waistband 9, the upper loop edge is folded in 1 cm and stitched onto the waistband 9.

The button 47 is then attached to the collar 9 in accordance with the waist measurements of the consumer (see also FIG. 26).

27 and 28 show that now the hem of the pants 48 is sewn inwards after the longitudinal dimensions have been determined.

The finished pant 49 (Fig. 29 and 30) is now turned from the outside in and all remaining seams are ironed out; then the trousers are ironed from the right side.

The variation of the adjustment explained above. The longitudinal seams to the body size of the consumer also apply accordingly to the adjustment of transverse seams and length dimensions.

Although the processing process was explained above with the help of a pair of trousers, the same applies to all types of clothing. Differences arise only from the article-specific processing sequence.

Claims (3)

1. A process for the self-production of items of clothing, such as coats, pants, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, by the consumer, a piece of clothing (50) first being cut with respect to its components (1 to 15, 23, 47) and partially processed , by providing cut parts (1 to 4, 7, 8), optionally with pre-fabricated reinforcements (10, 11), with finished seams which can no longer be changed, with closure elements (23, 47) and with ingredients in a predetermined article-specific industrial prefabrication, and then the item of clothing is put together in the form of a package with a cut, material and color matching, from which the consumer connects the components (1 to 15, 23, 47) as intended and completes the item of clothing based on the components of the package according to assembly instructions ,
characterized , that the individual cut parts of a package are created in a size that spans several clothing sizes, that the respective dimensions corresponding to the clothing sizes recorded are marked on the cut parts, - That in industrial prefabrication such processing in the form of incorporated reinforcements or processed and incorporated parts, such as bags, collars, zippers etc., of finished seams and buttonholes etc. are carried out, which do not change or change only slightly with the clothing sizes recorded, and - That the consumer measures his clothing size and marks the corresponding markings before the intended connection of the parts to the garment on the cut parts. 2. set of components for the self-production of a piece of clothing, such as a coat, trousers, jacket, skirt, blouse or shirt, by the consumer,
marked by
Components (1 to 15, 23, 47) made up of pre-, intermediate and finished processed cut parts (1 to 14, 7, 8), which are coordinated with one another in terms of cut, material and color, are industrially prefabricated and assembled in the form of a package Reinforcements (10, 11), incorporated parts, locking elements (23, 47) and ingredients including assembly instructions and a combination measuring tape. 3. set of components according to claim 2,
characterized ,
that accessories are integrated into the package.

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