EP0175039B1 - Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver le patron d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement - Google Patents

Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver le patron d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0175039B1
EP0175039B1 EP84810456A EP84810456A EP0175039B1 EP 0175039 B1 EP0175039 B1 EP 0175039B1 EP 84810456 A EP84810456 A EP 84810456A EP 84810456 A EP84810456 A EP 84810456A EP 0175039 B1 EP0175039 B1 EP 0175039B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cutting
templates
template
contours
contour
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Expired - Lifetime
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EP84810456A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0175039A1 (fr
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Wolf Merz
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Individual
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Individual
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Priority to DE8484810456T priority Critical patent/DE3481159D1/de
Priority to EP84810456A priority patent/EP0175039B1/fr
Priority to JP60204588A priority patent/JPS61239005A/ja
Publication of EP0175039A1 publication Critical patent/EP0175039A1/fr
Priority to US07/143,269 priority patent/US4780960A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0175039B1 publication Critical patent/EP0175039B1/fr
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a device for storing and locating cut templates of a batch of a piece of clothing.
  • a dress represents a spatial structure.
  • the garment is composed of individual parts with a suitable contour.
  • Such parts are usually referred to as cut parts.
  • the respective cut part is made of a suitable fabric and it is initially flat.
  • the course, the length, etc. of the individual sections of the structured contour of the respective cut part are chosen such that the connection of certain sections of the contour of one of the cut parts with the corresponding sections of the contour of further cut parts results in the desired spatial structure, the item of clothing, and the desired one Appearance of the same.
  • cutting templates which have the contour of the respective batch of a garment.
  • Such stencils are usually made of a solid, sheet-like material, so that the contour of the respective garment section can be transferred to the selected clothing fabric by tracing the contour of the stencil in pencil, chalk or the like.
  • cut parts can be produced efficiently, which are then put together to form the individual items of clothing.
  • design of the contour of cut templates essentially the same applies as has already been said in connection with the design of the contour of cut parts.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a device for storing and locating cutting templates of a batch of a garment, which allows characteristic features to find the cut closest to a designed new model from the stored cuts of a standard size.
  • GB-A 399 676 discloses the use of reference points and lines on a template. However, this is not about storing and finding a template of a certain size, but about developing different clothing sizes from a standard template, the so-called grading.
  • DE-A 2020618 relates to cutting for the production of garments, the shape and size of the individual parts of the garment being calculated and output on the basis of the mass of the customer by means of stored shapes. Markings on the saved blanks are used for the orderly placement and retrieval of the blanks and for optimizing the cutting, in that the blanks are to be placed on a material web in such a way that there is as little waste as possible. Certain standard cut shapes are used from the memory and transferred to the garment to be manufactured.
  • the aim of the device according to the invention is not to simplify and optimize the cutting process for a specific person, but to find the cut closest to a designed new model from the stored cuts of a standard size.
  • the cutting template can be used to make one of the front parts of a women's dress.
  • the longest and vertical line 1 of the contour of the cutting template 10 represents the front edge of the front part.
  • Line 2, which lies at the bottom and runs approximately horizontally, represents the hem of the front part.
  • Line 6, which is on the left and consists of three lines 3, 4 and 5, determines the side seam on the front part of the dress.
  • At this side seam 6 there is a line 7 at the top which delimits the arm hole rounding.
  • incisions 8 and 9 are made which serve as processing characteristics. Such marks are called buttons, and they also serve as starting points or cover points when assembling parts in order to achieve a fitting assembly of the cut parts forming the garment.
  • the shoulder length 11 of the cutting template 10 consists of two sections 12 and 13, between which a wedge 14 is cut out. Between the shoulder length 11 and the front edge 1 there is a rounded neck hole 15 which is provided with a tuft 16.
  • the line 17 lying on top in this cutting template 10 and running approximately horizontally indicates the chest width. Underneath is the waist width 18, and below this is the buttock width 19.
  • a distance 21 is delimited by two round points A and B. We will refer to this route 21 in the following as a reference line.
  • the model of a garment is designed in the main size, so that graded cutting templates are derived from the cutting template in the model size in one of the known methods.
  • Pattern templates in the model size and the derived sets of graded pattern templates are kept separately in the archive. In the archive or in an electronic memory, further pattern templates are kept, which relate to the same batch of items of clothing that have been changed in just one or more details.
  • the cutting template 10 shown in FIG. 1 is a cutting template made in the model size.
  • FIG. 2 shows a cutting template 30, actually the contour thereof, which largely resembles the template 10 shown in FIG. 1.
  • This second cutting template 30 would also be made in the model size.
  • the cutting template 30 can also be used to make one of the front parts of a women's dress.
  • the longest and vertical line 31 of the contour of the cutting template 30 represents the front edge of the front part.
  • the line 32 lying at the bottom and running approximately horizontally represents the hem of the front part.
  • the line 36 on the left and consisting of three lines 33, 34 and 35 determines the side seam on the front part of the dress.
  • Above the side seam 36 there is a section 37 of the contour of the cutting template 30 which delimits the armhole rounding.
  • clips 38 and 39 are embodied.
  • the line 47 which is uppermost and approximately horizontal in this cutting template 30, indicates a part of the chest width. Below this is the waist width 48, and below this is the buttock width 49. Between the shoulder length 41 and the neck hole rounding 45 is the neck hole tip 50. In the lower part of the front edge 31, a distance 51 is delimited by two crosses C and D, which are referred to below as a reference line of the second cutting template 30.
  • a comparison of the two cutting templates 10 and 30 shows that there are differences between these templates 10 and 30 in the chest area and in the shoulder area. There is no cutout in the shoulder area, so that the shoulder length 41 in the template according to FIG. 2 is connected.
  • a gusset 53 adjoins the line 47 indicating the chest width, which is delimited laterally by the line 54 and 55.
  • the middle line 56 of this gusset 53 represents a continuation of the chest width 47.
  • the gusset 53 is frontally delimited by two further lines 57 and 58.
  • the first cutting template 10 was used to make one of the cut parts of a model for a women's dress that had previously been manufactured.
  • a model is now to be produced in which the front part is to look as shown in FIG. 2.
  • the cutting template 30 for such a cutting part one could largely use that template or that regulation for the contour of such a template that was used for the production of the cutting template 10 for producing the cut part according to FIG. 1.
  • This problem can be solved, for example, by providing cut parts or cut templates with systematically applied markings, which make it possible to compare and / or compare contours and / or distances in cut parts or cut templates relating to the same part of a piece of clothing, for example of all front parts of a women's dress select the appropriate template or the appropriate regulation for the preparation of the required cutting template.
  • markings you can also derive and produce graded cutting templates, for example starting from a cutting template made in the model size.
  • One of the components of such reference means can be, for example, the path 21 or 51 in the templates 10 or 30, which coincides with a section of the front edge 1 or 31 of the cutting templates for the front part of a dress.
  • the reference path or line can also be located within the contour of the respective template.
  • the template can take any positions in the direction of these lines.
  • a further component of the reference means is required, on which the templates 10, 30 etc. still have to be aligned.
  • This further component of the reference means can only be a point that is located on the respective template.
  • the neck hole tip 20 or 50 of the templates 10 and 30 shown in FIG. 3 can represent the additional component of the reference means, for example. If the templates are aligned with the reference line and the reference point, then they are in a position in which their contour can be evaluated for the purposes described here.
  • three or more points can also serve as reference means, for example, which have the same relationship to one another in each template.
  • these points can be made of a solid material, for example as holes. If certain clips, for example clips 8, 9 and 16, were to be placed in the same place on all templates, these clips could also serve as the reference means or reference points mentioned for the templates to be sorted.
  • this selection mark can be used as this selection mark, the position of which in relation to the reference means 20 and 21 or 50 and 51 is selected according to the situation given in the respective individual case. In Fig. 3 this selection mark is indicated by point 70. Indicated by point 70 at the selection mark.
  • point 70 When selecting the suitable template for the production of a new cutting template, it will be a relationship between the position of the selection mark 70 with respect to the contour of the existing templates 10, 30, etc. act.
  • the position of the selection point 70 with respect to the reference means 20, 21, 50 and 51 can be determined in advance from certain circumstances which are not described in more detail here.
  • This selection criterion can, for example, be such that those of the already existing templates are considered relevant, the contour of which passes through the selection mark 70 or the contour of which is closest to this selection mark. Thereafter, for each of the cutting templates 10, 30, etc. that are already present, the relationship of the contour of the cutting templates 70 to the selection mark 70 is checked. Those cutting template (s) that fully or optimally meet the selection criteria are considered relevant, while the remaining templates can be discarded. A suitable cutting template can then be made using the selected cutting template. If the contour of the selected template does not fully meet the requirements, the area in question can be corrected and the modified template can then be used to create a cutting template.
  • Existing cutting templates 10, 30 etc. are positioned when evaluating the contour of the template so that the reference line 21 or 51 of the respective template and the reference point, e.g. the point 20 or 50 or the above-mentioned three reference points, etc., are located at a very specific and predetermined position.
  • the stencils 10, 30 etc. are made of cardboard, gauze, plastic or the like, for example, then the easiest way to align them according to the reference line 21, 51 etc. is that one of the edge parts of a table 60 (FIG. 3 ) for receiving the stencils 10, 30 etc. provided with a stop 61, which protrudes from the receiving surface of the table 60. At this stop 61, the templates 10, 30, etc. are struck with their area or edge, which has the reference path 21, 51, etc. This stop 61 is one of the components of positioning means for the originals.
  • the positioning means also have a positioning point which is attached to the support surface 60 and on which the reference point of the respective template lies.
  • the contours of the cutting templates 10 and 30 are shown superimposed on one another, the contours of which are aligned not only according to the reference lines 21 and 51 but also according to the neck hole tips 20 and 50. These neck hole tips cover the positioning point on the support surface 60, so that the positioning point is not visible in FIG. 3.
  • the reference path can be designed, for example, as a slot in the template.
  • a flat mandrel can be inserted through this slot and represents the first component of the positioning means for the templates.
  • a light beam can also be used to align the individual templates according to their reference path. If this should be necessary, then at least one further component of the positioning means, e.g. a positioning point can be used.
  • the evaluation of the course of the contours of the already existing templates could proceed in such a way that the respective template is positioned individually in accordance with the positioning and reference means and that the degree of fulfillment of the predetermined selection criterion by the respectively positioned template is based on the relationship between the Location of the selection mark and the course of the contour of the template is examined.
  • the course of the contour in the already existing templates could also be checked in such a way that all templates are initially placed on top of one another and aligned with one another in accordance with the positioning means and the reference line 21 or 51 and the reference point 20 or 50. According to this, it could be checked either simultaneously or in succession for the individual templates in which the templates, the contours thereof, meet the selection criterion.
  • all the templates lying on top of one another can be provided with a continuous opening 70 (FIG. 3) which can be carried out by means of a puncture using a drilling tool, etc. Then you take the templates apart again and look at which of the templates the opening is on the contour of the same or which of the templates is the said opening of the contour of the template closest.
  • the contour of the templates is checked individually, one can, for example, proceed by positioning them individually on the table 60.
  • the reference line 21, 51 etc. of the respective template 10, 30 etc. comes to a stop on the table stop 61 (FIG. 3).
  • the neck hole tip 20, 50, etc. of the respective template is placed on the mark provided on the support surface of the table 60. Since this mark is covered by the neck hole tip or tips, it cannot be seen in FIG. 3.
  • a light beam directed perpendicular to the table surface for example, can be used, which is located on the surface of the respectively positioned sheet shows blone 10, 30 etc. as a light spot. From the position of this light spot in relation to the contour of the respective template, one can conclude whether this template is relevant or not.
  • the contours in Fig. 3 are aligned with the reference lines 21 and 51, these lines 21, 51 need not be the same length, and it is also not necessary, although this can also serve as a further positioning mark that the end points A and B cover one reference line 21 with the end points C and D of the other reference line 51.
  • the position of the templates in the direction of the reference lines 21 and 51 is given in the example shown by the match of the neck hole tips 20, 50 etc. of all templates.
  • the position of the selection mark 70 can be derived from given circumstances. In the case shown, we assume that the selection mark 70 is located in that area of the image according to FIG. 3 which is delimited by the lines 7, 12 and 37.
  • the selection criterion is that the template is considered relevant for which the selection mark 70 lies within or on the contour of the template. In the example shown, the first template 10 would thus be relevant because the selection mark 70 lies within the contour thereof.
  • the second contour 30 could be discarded.
  • the selection criterion can also be such that the template whose contour is closest to the selection mark 70 is relevant. With such a criterion, the second contour 30 would be relevant because the selection mark 70, as can be seen from FIG. 3, is closer to the contour of this second template 30.
  • the device has an electronic storage unit 80 (FIG. 4) which is connected to one of the inputs of a comparison unit 81.
  • a unit 82 for inputting the selection mark 70 is connected to a second input of the comparison unit 81.
  • a selection unit 83 is connected to a third input of the comparison unit 81 and can decide automatically or manually controlled which of the templates is selected as relevant.
  • a unit 84 for outputting the contour of the template that optimally fulfills the selection criterion is connected to a first output of the comparison unit 81.
  • the comparison unit 81 can be provided with a further output, to which a unit 85 serves for the optical representation of the contour of the templates, the selection mark and optionally also the positioning and reference means.
  • This display unit 85 has a screen 86 on which the individual or superimposed images appear.
  • the output unit 84 can be either a drawing device or a device for producing cutting templates, for example made of a solid material.
  • the input unit 82 for the selection mark 70 and the selection unit 83 can be designed as a keyboard.
  • the memory 80 and the comparison unit 81 are purely electronic units which contain circuitry for performing the functions mentioned. Instead of the individual units 80 to 83 enumerated above, a single data processing system can be used which is designed in such a way that it can carry out the functions mentioned.
  • the storage unit 80 serves to store those signals which represent the contours of the templates, the reference means 20, 21, 50, 51 of the templates 10, 30 and the positioning means of the templates.
  • the reference means can be represented in the same way as with the physically executed templates 10, 30.
  • the reference means are implemented electronically as signals that are permanently assigned to those signals that represent the respective template. Additional signals, which relate to the comparison unit 81, serve as positioning means, so that the reference means of those templates, the signals of which arrive in the comparison unit 81, are in such a position that the reference means of the respective template with the positioning means in the comparison unit 81 are electrical to match.
  • the consequence of this is that the reference means of all templates that arrive in the comparison unit 81 are located electrically at the same location of the comparison unit 81. This makes it possible to show the differences in the course of the contours of the individual templates, for example by overlaying the templates.
  • the electronically stored contours which are superimposed on one another in accordance with the positioning and reference means, result in an image which essentially corresponds to that of FIG. 3.
  • the fixed base 60 and the mechanical stop 61 are of course eliminated. 3 was created by superimposing the two contours 10 and 30 from FIGS. 1 and 2. In practice, if there are several templates for the same part of a piece of clothing, the overlay image will of course have more contours.
  • the memory unit 80 can be assigned a scanning unit 85 which is intended to scan the contour of the respective template and the marks or lines attached to it.
  • Such scanning units contain a solid base on which the template can be spread out.
  • Such a unit 87 also contains an optoelectronic converter, which converts the shape of the contour of the respective template and the position of the markings attached to it into electrical signals that can be stored in the memory unit 80. Such signals are then used in the comparison unit 81 as described above. Since the scanned cutting template (s) have the reference means already discussed, they do not need to be scanned to have a very specific position. Because the templates can only be automatically oriented by the machine because of the reference means mentioned.
  • Such marks S1, S2, S3, S4 and S5 can be attached to the corners of the contour of the respective template 10. The type of these marks is such that the machine can determine that they are marks on the contour and in the respective corner of the template 10.
  • the stencils 10, 30 etc. in model size, i.e. made and stored in a medium size. Since you know in advance how much the distance between two brands must be enlarged or reduced in order to achieve a template for the next size of a garment, the whole set of templates can be made from the smallest to the largest The size of the respective part of a piece of clothing, based on the stored data relating to the template in the model size, can be automatically produced with the aid of the machine if a numerically controlled device for producing cutting templates is connected to the device shown in FIG. 4.
  • the above explanations also apply in the event that the template determined from the templates already present has to be adapted first.
  • the modified template is first saved, and starting from this saved template, the set of cut templates mentioned can be produced.
  • Marks N1, N2, N3, N4 and N5 can, however, also be attached to the seam lines 86 of the respective template 10.
  • the seam line is at a predetermined distance from the edge of the cut part in question. It is thus possible to use the marks N mentioned on the seam lines 86 immediately, as has been described in connection with the marks S on the contour of the template. Attaching the marks N to the seam lines 86 has a further advantage, namely that the seam is identified by the mentioned N marks and that it can be recognized automatically by the machine. Markings made in this way also enable the seam lines to be automatically recognized by the sewing device when the parts of a piece of clothing are sewn together. Furthermore, such marks N or S can be used as marks for assigning the sections of the contour of an adjacent cut part of the same garment provided with the same or corresponding marks when sewing them together.
  • the brands mentioned can also be attached to their lines or lines of a template for a cutting template, such a brand K being shown on the construction line 17 in FIG. 1.
  • Such marks S, N, K etc. can also be used to determine the mass of the stored templates. This is because when the scanning of a given template for storing the contour of the same as well as the markings attached to this template already discussed, the distances between the individual marks of the markings are also scanned and stored. When querying certain brands, you can get the information about the distances between these brands as an answer, and thereby you can also determine the mass of the templates.
  • required templates can be selected from a set of templates that are already available.
  • the marking or grading marks S, N, K etc. on the templates allow, among other things, an automatic creation of dimension tables for the items of clothing. Such tables of dimensions can then enable the grading of cutting templates retrospectively.
  • the marking of the seam lines enables, for example, an automatic calculation of costs, automatic work preparation, automatic sewing time allocation, automatic determination of fabric and yarn consumption as well as an even distribution of work during the production of clothing.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
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Claims (7)

1. Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver des patrons d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une surface de support (60) pour les patrons (10,30) qui sont des formes réalisées en un matériau de structure plane, en ce que cette surface de support est pourvue de moyens (61) qui permettent un positionnement des patrons (10, 30) sur un emplacement déterminé d'exploitation, une ligne de référence (21,51 ) et un point de référence (20, 50) situés sur les patrons étant associés à ces moyens de positionnement (61) situés sur la surface de support (60), en ce qu'il est prévu des moyens représentant ou constituant un repère de sélection pour le modèle approprié, en ce que les patrons (10, 30) se présentent sous la forme dé contours, pouvant être mis en mémoire par des moyens électroniques, de l'une des parties d'une pièce de vêtement, en ce que des signaux électroniques pouvant aussi être mis en mémoire servent de ligne de référence (21,51 ) et de point de référence (20, 50), en ce que c'est un signal électronique pouvant à chaque fois être sélectionné, et qui peut être mis en corrélation avec les signaux électroniques reproduisant le contour du patron, qui sert de critère de sélection (70) et en ce qu'il est enfin prévu une unité de restitution (84) permettant de restituer le modèle sélectionné.
2. Dispositif suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les moyens de positionnement (61) comprennent une baguette de butée et/ou des doigts de butée pour les patrons et au moins un autre repère avec lequel le repère correspondant prévu sur le patron considéré peut être amené en coïncidence.
3. Dispositif suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les moyens constituant le repère de sélection sont réalisés sous la forme d'un doigt qui traverse un orifice ménagé dans le patron (10, 30) ou s'appuie sur le contour de ce patron.
4. Dispositif suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les moyens constituant le repère de sélection comprennent une source de lumière qui est dirigée vers la surface de support (60) et y forme une tache lumineuse représentant le repère de sélection.
5. Dispositif suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé par:
- une unité (80) servant à mettre en mémoire le contour des patrons (10, 30) prévus pour une partie déterminée de pièces de vêtement, ainsi qu'à mettre en mémoire les signaux représentant les moyens de référence et les moyens de positionnement,
- une unité (82) servant à introduire les signaux représentant le critère de sélection,
- une unité de comparaison (81) dans laquelle est examinée la corrélation existant entre le repère de sélection (70) et el tracé du contour du patron (10,30) considéré et
- une unité de commande (85) qui commande la reproduction du patron (10,30) pour lequel la corrélation fixée à l'avance se trouve remplie entre le critère de sélection et le tracé du contour de ce patron, et qui commande le rejet de tout contour pour lequel la corrélation indiquée n'est pas remplie de manière optimale..
6. Dispositif suivant la revendication 5, caractérisé par une unité de visualisation (86) à l'aide de laquelle on peut visualiser tant le contour du patron considéré que la position du repère de sélection.
7. Dispositif suivant la revendication 6, caractérisé par des moyens servant à explorer le contour de patrons déjà existants ou le contour de modèles prévus pour des patrons.
EP84810456A 1984-09-18 1984-09-18 Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver le patron d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement Expired - Lifetime EP0175039B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE8484810456T DE3481159D1 (de) 1984-09-18 1984-09-18 Vorrichtung zum ablegen und aufsuchen von schnittschablonen einer partie eines kleidungsstueckes.
EP84810456A EP0175039B1 (fr) 1984-09-18 1984-09-18 Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver le patron d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement
JP60204588A JPS61239005A (ja) 1984-09-18 1985-09-18 型紙を得るための原型、この原型を使用するための方法及びこの方法を実施するための装置
US07/143,269 US4780960A (en) 1984-09-18 1988-01-05 Pattern, process and apparatus for obtaining a cutting template

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP84810456A EP0175039B1 (fr) 1984-09-18 1984-09-18 Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver le patron d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0175039A1 EP0175039A1 (fr) 1986-03-26
EP0175039B1 true EP0175039B1 (fr) 1990-01-31

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EP84810456A Expired - Lifetime EP0175039B1 (fr) 1984-09-18 1984-09-18 Dispositif pour déposer et retrouver le patron d'une partie d'une pièce de vêtement

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US4780960A (fr)
EP (1) EP0175039B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS61239005A (fr)
DE (1) DE3481159D1 (fr)

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DE2043959A1 (de) * 1970-09-04 1972-03-09 Studio Fachverlag Margot Strauss, 8500 Nürnberg Verfahren, Maßstab und Raster zur Herstellung von Maß- und Modellschnitten für Strickbekleidungsstücke aus einem Fachgrundschnitt
GB1571290A (en) * 1975-12-18 1980-07-09 Hughes Aircraft Co Method of and system for pattern grading
JPS6036485B2 (ja) * 1978-06-09 1985-08-21 東レ株式会社 衣服の型片補正指示方法および補正指示書
JPS54161446A (en) * 1978-06-12 1979-12-21 Toray Industries Method of making pattern

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102019108821A1 (de) * 2019-04-04 2020-10-08 Onefid Gmbh Vorrichtung zur Fertigung eines individuell konfigurierten Kleidungsstücks

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JPS61239005A (ja) 1986-10-24
EP0175039A1 (fr) 1986-03-26
US4780960A (en) 1988-11-01
DE3481159D1 (de) 1990-03-08

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