EP0130096A2 - Anlage zur Herstellung von Hemdenmanschetten - Google Patents

Anlage zur Herstellung von Hemdenmanschetten Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0130096A2
EP0130096A2 EP84401048A EP84401048A EP0130096A2 EP 0130096 A2 EP0130096 A2 EP 0130096A2 EP 84401048 A EP84401048 A EP 84401048A EP 84401048 A EP84401048 A EP 84401048A EP 0130096 A2 EP0130096 A2 EP 0130096A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wrist
machine
installation according
buttonhole
machines
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP84401048A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0130096B1 (de
EP0130096A3 (en
Inventor
Bernard Cordier
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Fives Cail Babcock SA
Original Assignee
Fives Cail Babcock SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Fives Cail Babcock SA filed Critical Fives Cail Babcock SA
Priority to AT84401048T priority Critical patent/ATE30206T1/de
Publication of EP0130096A2 publication Critical patent/EP0130096A2/de
Publication of EP0130096A3 publication Critical patent/EP0130096A3/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0130096B1 publication Critical patent/EP0130096B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B25/00—Sewing units consisting of combinations of several sewing machines

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the manufacture of clothing, and more particularly the manufacture of cuffs for shirt sleeves.
  • Installations are already known comprising a shaping machine, a topstitching machine, a machine for making buttonholes and a machine for sewing buttons.
  • the invention essentially consists in arranging these different machines so as to automate the manufacturing. To this end, provision is made in particular for transferring a wrist from one machine to another, as well as means for controlling the positioning of the wrist during its movement.
  • the subject of the invention is essentially an installation for the manufacture of shirt cuffs, comprising a stitching machine, a machine for making the buttonhole and a machine for sewing the button on the wrist, characterized in that it further comprises, means for bringing the wrist to the stitching machine, means for moving the wrist away from the stitching machine, means for positioning at least one of the ends of the wrist relative to one of the working heads of the machine making the buttonhole and the button sewing machine, said heads being arranged opposite one another, means for orienting the wrist so that it appears in an adequate orientation or an orientation at 180 0 of the latter under said heads, means for bringing the wrist under said heads while maintaining it in the correct position and means for moving the wrist away from these said machines.
  • the installation may further include a shaping machine placed upstream of the stitching machine, means for transferring the wrist from one machine to another, a storage stacker placed downstream of the buttonhole and sew the button and means to transfer the wrist of these machines to the stacker and to introduce it into the latter.
  • a magazine is provided between the shaping machine and the topstitching machine.
  • the means for orienting the wrists comprise a turntable with a vertical axis, the plane of which is located at the same level as the table of the topstitching machine and the table of the buttonhole and button-sewing machines.
  • the wrist positioning means comprise a pushing device which brings the button-buttonhole line of the wrist into coincidence with a reference diameter of the plate.
  • these means further comprise a device allowing the ends of the wrist to be brought together and brought to a predetermined distance from each other corresponding to the spacing of the working heads of the buttonhole machines and sew the button.
  • these means include a device allowing the wrist to move longitudinally to position one of its ends relative to the working head of one of the buttonhole and button sewing machines, said machine being fixed, to detect the other end of the wrist and to control the movement of the other machine which is mobile, to adapt the spacing of the working heads to the size of the wrist.
  • the directions of movement of the wrist of the topstitching machine towards the turntable, on the one hand, and this towards the buttonhole and button sewing machines, on the other hand, can be parallel or perpendicular.
  • the amplitude and the direction of rotation of the plate depend on the arrangement chosen and the type of wrist, right or left, manufactured. With the parallel arrangement, for a first type of paignet, it is not necessary to rotate the plate, the wrist being only moved in translation from the topstitching machine to the machines for making the buttonhole and sewing the button with a stop on the tray to position it; for the other type of wrist, the plate is rotated 180 0 before transferring the wrist to said machines.
  • Figure 1 we see a conventional type of shaping machine consisting of a set of five plates 4 rotating around a vertical axis 3 in the manner of a carousel.
  • the reference 1 designates the operator who introduces a sliding wrist into the feeder 2 of the machine. The latter restores the wrist 6 heat-bonded to station 5 when the introductory plate 4 has successively occupied the various stations of the conforming machine during its rotation around the axis 3.
  • the wrist 6 is then brought by means which will be described later, on the table 63 of a magazine 34.
  • Each wrist 6 is successively brought by means also described below, on the table 64 of an overstitching machine 24, then on a turntable 53 with a vertical axis.
  • Tables 63 and 64 and the tray 53 are located on the same level. From the tray 53 the wrist 6 is brought to the table 79 supporting a machine 44 for placing the button, placed opposite a machine 48 for making the buttonhole.
  • the table 79 is arranged at the same level as the aforementioned tables, but the direction of movement of the wrist 6 is perpendicular to the direction of movement of the said wrist on the tables 63 and 64.
  • the correct position of the wrist 6 at station 5 is controlled by photoelectric cells 80 (fig.3).
  • the magazine 34 with a capacity of ten wrists, for example, allows the half-time use of the conforming machine when its production rate is double that of downstream equipment.
  • FIG. 3 we see a clamp 12 which feeds the ten stations of the store 34 taking charge of the wrist 6 when the clamps 8 have been put out of service by the electromagnets 9.
  • This support is ensured by a jack pneumatic 13.
  • the gripper 12 and the wrist 6 which it drives by sliding it on the base 23 then on the table 63 are moved linearly by a rodless hydraulic cylinder 14, a gripper carriage 32 being guided by a column system- sockets ball 33.
  • a presence detector 17 of the wrists 6, integral with the clamp 12, causes the latter to stop at the store station 34 immediately preceding a position occupied by a wrist 6.
  • the stop position is related to the speed of advance of the hydraulic cylinder 14.
  • the clamp 12 then releases the wrist 6 which is held in position on the table 63 by suction openings 52.
  • the rotation of the rotary cylinder 10 is done always rods this cylinder 7 retracted. So that the clamp 12 does not interfere with this rotation a waiting position 11 is provided for the latter.
  • a step-by-step advance of the wrist 6 is controlled by fingers 21 integral with a shaft 15 driven in rotation by a jack 18.
  • This shaft is carried by a movable assembly whose linear guidance is provided by a column-ball bushing system 19, the movement of a step being ensured by a pneumatic jack 20.
  • FIG. 4 The unloading of the magazine 34 with a view to feeding the topstitching machine 24 is illustrated in FIG. 4. This unloading is ensured by a clamp 16 which ensures the transfer of the wrists 6 under conditions similar to those of the clamp 12.
  • the jack 25 without drive rod, here is pneumatic.
  • the machine 24 of a conventional type performs the stitching operation in a manner known per se.
  • An arm 26 transfers the overstitched wrist 6 from the machine 24 to the turntable 53, which follows tables 63 and 64 and is arranged at the same level as these.
  • the arm 26 is articulated on an axis 28 around which it rocks under the action of a jack 29. This arrangement has the advantage of allowing it to pass in front of the machine 24 while the shoe 30 of said machine rotates about its axis 31 to manipulate the wrist 6 during the stitching operation.
  • the purpose of the turntable 53 is to position the wrist so that a theoretical line 27 joining the implantation points A and B provided for the button and the buttonhole is parallel to the plane defined by the axes 77 and 78 of the working heads. of the two machines 44 and 48 and that the distance separating the points A and B is equal to the spacing of the axes of the two heads.
  • the wrist 6 On leaving the topstitching machine, the wrist 6 is not always correctly positioned and the first operation consists in bringing the line 27 into coincidence with a diameter 37 of the turntable; when the plate is in a first position which it occupies when the wrist is brought there by the clamp 16, this diameter is perpendicular to the direction of movement of the wrist on the tables 63 and 64 represented in the drawing by the line 38.
  • the wrist After that the arm 26 has been moved away from the turntable, the wrist is pushed by two fingers 35 moved by a pneumatic cylinder 36 until the line 27 coincides with the diameter 37 of the tray; the fingers 35 are then raised and brought into the retracted position by the jack 36.
  • the assembly constituted by the fingers 35, the device for controlling the movements of the fingers and their support is mounted in a fixed position in a position diametrically opposite to the stitching in relation to the center of the plate.
  • the turntable 53 supports the wrist 6.
  • a clamp 39 moved in translation by a pneumatically controlled carriage 40 starts from its rear stop position and moves towards the center of the tray to support one end of the wrist 6 as soon as, during the advance, a photoelectric cell 41 carried by the clamp 39 detects the edge of said wrist and controls the electromagnet 42 for closing the clamp 39 which then drives the wrist 6 until the end of the stroke of the carriage 40.
  • a clamp 45 takes charge of the other end of the wrist 6 after detection of the edge of the latter, and drives it until the end of the travel of a carriage 46.
  • the wrist 6 forms a loop oriented downwards inside a chute 49 practiced diametrically in the turntable 53 perpendicular to the line 37.
  • a finger 50 (fig.6) controlled by an electromagnet 51. Said finger by lowering instantly bends the wrist 6 downwards, failing which the position of the loop would be random (possibly above the plate 53).
  • Adjustable stops fix the limit switches of the carriages 40 and 46 so that, after the operations described above, the distance between point A where the button is to be sewn and point B where the buttonhole is to be formed is equal at the spacing between the axes 77 and 78 of the heads of the machines 44 and 48 whatever the size of the wrist.
  • the positions of the cells 41 on the clamps 39 and 45 are adjustable and fixed as a function of the distances separating the points A and B from the adjacent edges of the wrist.
  • the turntable 53 rotates 90 °; the plate is driven in rotation by a rotary pneumatic cylinder 83.
  • the rotation is carried out in one direction or the other depending on whether it is a right wrist or a left wrist.
  • the overstitched wrist always arrives in the same position on the plate 53 and it it must therefore be rotated 90 ° in one direction if it is a right wrist, and in the opposite direction, if it is a left wrist to bring point A, respectively point B, in alignment with the axis 77 of the machine head 44, respectively of the axis 78 of the machine head 48.
  • By rotation of 90 ° the line 27 joining the points A and B is brought to be parallel on the plane containing the axes 77 and 78 of the heads of the machines 44 and 48.
  • the position in which the plate is located when it receives the wrist of the topstitching machine is fixed by two eclipsable stops 54 controlled by two pneumatic cylinders 55.
  • the two positions in which the plate is brought by rotation of 90 ° in one direction or in the other, are fixed by two fixed stops 81. These stops are placed under the plate and cooperate with pins fixed to the plate. To rotate the plate from its first position, in one direction or the other, we must first eclipse the corresponding stop 54; it must also be overshadowed to allow the tray to return to its first position.
  • a transfer arm 56 After rotation of the plate 53, the wrist 6 is supported by a transfer arm 56, as can be seen in FIG. 6.
  • This arm is provided with two grippers 57 and 58 controlled by a single pneumatic cylinder 59.
  • These grippers and this jack are carried by a carriage 60 guided by a column-bushing ball system 61 and driven by a pneumatic jack without rod 62.
  • This assembly is constructed so as to be able to be interposed between the heads of the machines 44 and 48 in view of the corresponding operations.
  • the clamp 57 is produced so as to be able to pass between the clamps 39 and 45 to take up the wrist 6 on the turntable 53.
  • the clamps 39 and 45 do not let go of the wrist until after the clamp 57 has been applied thereto so that he cannot change acciden so much position.
  • the wrist is brought under the heads of the machines 44 and 48 by the clamp 57 by sliding on the plate 53 and on the table 79, the path of the points A and B being represented in FIG. 5 by the lines 43 and 47.
  • a chute 66 extending the chute 49 of the plate 53 when the latter has made a rotation of 90 ° (FIG. 6) and in which the loop formed by the wrist moves during its transfer from the plate 53 to the machines 44 and 48.
  • the clamp 58 ensures its evacuation towards a stacker 65.
  • This clamp holds the wrist 6 on one side only to allow it to deploy while escaping from the chute 66, helped in this by the inclined plane 67 which follows the flat bottom of the troughs 49 and 66.
  • another wrist is brought by the clamp 57 to the machines 44 and 48.
  • the vertical retraction of the grid 68 is caused by a jack 72, which allows the wrists previously stored to be brought into contact with the wrist 6 inserted between grid 68 and pusher 69. Constant pressure is ensured on the wrists stacked by a carriage 75 rolling on the storage plane of the stacker 65 by means of rolling balls 76.
  • the pusher 69 advances alnrs by a few centimeters under the action of the jack 73 until it is plumb with grid 68.
  • the guiding the pusher 69 is ensured by a column column-bushing system 74.
  • the grid 68 then rises in the corresponding imprints of the pusher 69. The latter moves back to its starting position and the stacker 65 is then ready to receive. a new wrist 6.
  • All the different stations work advantageously in automatic mode. A single operator is required to insert the wrist into the feeder of the conforming machine.
  • Figures 8 to 10 show another embodiment.
  • the elements which are identical to or which fulfill the same functions as elements of the embodiment of the figures in 7 have for reference number that of the element corresponding to the first embodiment increased by 100.
  • the means for bringing the wrist to the stitching machine, the means for transferring the wrist between this machine and the plate and between the latter and the button sewing machines and in forming the buttonhole and the means for evacuating the completed wrist were not shown.
  • the topstitching machine 124 and the button and buttonhole sewing machines 144 and 148 are arranged in line. Consequently, for one type of wrist, for example a straight wrist, it will not be necessary to rotate the plate 153 before transferring the wrist to the machines 144 and 148 and for the other type of wrist it will be necessary to rotate the plate 180 °.
  • the fingers 135 used to position the wrist so that the line AB coincides with the diameter 137 of the plate are carried by the latter.
  • the fingers are rotatably mounted on a shaft 200 arranged under the plate 153 parallel to the diameter 137 and the ends of which are supported by slides 202 mounted on horizontal rods 204 arranged perpendicularly to the shaft 200.
  • the displacements of the shaft 200 and fingers 135 parallel to the rods 204 are provided by a jack 136.
  • the fingers 135 protrude from the top of the plate 153 through slots 206 cut therefrom and parallel to the rods 204.
  • Counterweights 208 and stops limiting the rotation of the fingers on the shaft 200 under the action of these counterweights normally hold the fingers upright; the counterweights could be replaced by springs.
  • the movement of the movable assembly constituted by the fingers 135, the shaft 200 and the slides 202 towards the center of the plate is limited by adjustable stops. It is during this movement that the fingers push the wrist to bring the line AB of the wrist in coincidence with the diameter 137 of the plate.
  • the displacement in the opposite direction of this movable assembly brings the fingers 135 into abutment against the ends of the slots 206 which are furthest from the center of the plate 153, then causes the fingers, which rotate on the shaft 200, to tip over and eclipse them under the plate .
  • a lock system lage makes it possible to make one or more fingers inactive by keeping them under the plate during the entire course of the moving assembly.
  • a movable arm 210 provided with a clamp 212 and maneuverable by a jack 214 makes it possible to move the wrist parallel to the diameter 137 after the clamp has been applied to the wrist by a jack 216 which causes the arm to tilt.
  • Clamps 218 actuated by jacks 220 mounted on brackets fixed on the plate keep the wrist in position on the plate during its rotation.
  • Two photoelectric cells 222 are placed in slots 224 formed in the tray, parallel to the diameter 137, so as to be flush with the upper face of the tray. These cells are arranged symmetrically with respect to the diameter 226 perpendicular to the diameter 137. Each cell is associated with a light source so that it is excited each time a surface forming a reflecting screen is placed above it, on the tray. The position of the cells in the lights is adjustable.
  • the machine 144 is mounted on a table 228 provided with movable guides on bars 230 arranged perpendicular to the direction of movement of the wrist between the machine 124 , the plate 153 and the machines 144 and 148.
  • a geared motor unit 232 whose output pinion meshes with a rack fixed to the table 228 makes it possible to move the latter along the bars 230.
  • a bracket 234 fixed to the table 228 carries at its free end a photoelectric cell 236 associated with a light source.
  • the point of impact on the plate of the light rays emitted by this source is located on the diameter 137 and describes a portion of this diameter when the machine 148 is moving while the plate is in one or the other of its fixed stop positions.
  • These two portions of the surface of the tray are covered with a reflective coating, so that the current emitted by the cell, which is normally excited by the rays reflected on the tray, decreases in intensity when an object forming a screen is placed under the point of impact of the incident rays.
  • pivoting flaps 238 are used (FIG. 10) secured to a horizontal shaft 240 whose rotation is controlled by a jack 242 to move the flaps between a horizontal position, in the plane of the machine tables 144 and 148 and a vertical position, below this plane.
  • the flaps are independent of each other and each of them is made integral with the shaft 240 by a latch constituted by a ball 244 normally held in a cavity 246 of the shaft by spring.
  • a stop 248 integral with the table of the machine 144 can prevent the upward rotation of one or more flaps, depending on the position of the machine.
  • this stop is located in front of a flap, the ball 244 of this flap emerges from the cavity 246 when the shaft 240 is rotated and only the other flaps are brought into a horizontal position.
  • the clamp 212 is applied to the wrist and the arm 210, which was in the retracted position, is moved towards the center of the plate 153 by driving the wrist.
  • the edge of the wrist located on the side of the arm 210 arrives at the level of the cell 222 situated on the same side, the latter which was hitherto covered by the wrist detects a reduction in the reflected light energy and the resulting signal controls the stopping the arm 210, tightening the clamps 218, lifting the clamp 212 and withdrawing the arm 210; point B is then aligned with axis 178 of machine 148.
  • Machine 144 is then moved, by means of motor 232, until cell 236 detects the other edge of the wrist by varying the intensity of reflected light.
  • the cell then controls the stopping of the motor 232, and the flaps 238, which were eclipsed, are brought back to a horizontal position:
  • the point A is then aligned with the axis 177 of the machine 144.
  • a clamp similar to the clamp 57 of the first embodiment is then applied to the wrist, the pliers 218 are separated and the wrist is transferred to the machines 144 and 1 48.
  • the wrist arrives on the plate 153 in the reverse position, that is to say if point A is on the side of the machine 148 and point B on the side of the machine 144, it must be rotated 180 ° to bring it into position correct. Positioning along the diameter 137 by means of the fingers 135 is carried out as in the first case. The wrist is then pushed by the arm 210, which moves towards the center of the plate, but in this case, the other cell 222 is used, that is to say the one located on the side of the machine 144 for detect the other edge of the wrist.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Crystals, And After-Treatments Of Crystals (AREA)
EP84401048A 1983-05-25 1984-05-21 Anlage zur Herstellung von Hemdenmanschetten Expired EP0130096B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT84401048T ATE30206T1 (de) 1983-05-25 1984-05-21 Anlage zur herstellung von hemdenmanschetten.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8308602 1983-05-25
FR8308602A FR2546380A1 (fr) 1983-05-25 1983-05-25 Installation pour la fabrication de poignets de chemises

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0130096A2 true EP0130096A2 (de) 1985-01-02
EP0130096A3 EP0130096A3 (en) 1985-06-19
EP0130096B1 EP0130096B1 (de) 1987-10-14

Family

ID=9289149

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP84401048A Expired EP0130096B1 (de) 1983-05-25 1984-05-21 Anlage zur Herstellung von Hemdenmanschetten

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US4592295A (de)
EP (1) EP0130096B1 (de)
JP (1) JPS59232576A (de)
AT (1) ATE30206T1 (de)
DE (1) DE3466753D1 (de)
FR (1) FR2546380A1 (de)

Cited By (2)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0215581A2 (de) * 1985-09-02 1987-03-25 Galram Technology Industries Ltd. Verfahren und Anlage zur Verlagerung von Gegenständen
EP0338909A1 (de) * 1988-04-20 1989-10-25 Institut Textile De France Werkstückzuführung zu einer Nähmaschine

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US4799438A (en) * 1987-05-28 1989-01-24 Apparel Machinery International, Ltd. Method and apparatus for clamping and manipulating workpieces during a sewing operation
US4846087A (en) * 1987-05-28 1989-07-11 Apparel Machinery International, Ltd. Method and apparatus for clamping and manipulating workpieces during a sewing operation
JPH01259893A (ja) * 1988-04-08 1989-10-17 Maruzen Sewing Mach Co Ltd 縫製方法並びにその装置
IT8820795A0 (it) * 1988-05-30 1988-05-30 Rockwell Rimoldi Spa Postazione di lavoro per la cucitura di manufatti.
JPH0738907B2 (ja) * 1988-08-20 1995-05-01 ブラザー工業株式会社 縫製システム
US4989525A (en) * 1990-03-07 1991-02-05 Mario Portilla Sewing apparatus and method for manufacturing vehicular air bags
US5065535A (en) * 1990-06-29 1991-11-19 American Laundry Machinery, Inc. Indexing system for rotary garment press
GB9025321D0 (en) * 1990-11-21 1991-01-02 Leicester Polytechnic Multi-operation workstations
US5163376A (en) * 1991-09-06 1992-11-17 Mim Industries, Inc. Tubular seaming system
CN108720148A (zh) * 2017-05-08 2018-11-02 M.A.I.C.A.有限责任公司 一种适用于精加工袖口的组合式衬衫制造机的供给系统
CN108851309A (zh) * 2017-05-08 2018-11-23 M.A.I.C.A.有限责任公司 用于精加工袖口的组合式衬衫制造机
CN109989256B (zh) * 2019-05-09 2023-11-10 强信机械科技(莱州)有限公司 一种螺纹袖口翻折分切机
CN112481842A (zh) * 2020-11-20 2021-03-12 浙江科技学院 一种全自动袖英裁片加工机

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US1608944A (en) * 1925-12-05 1926-11-30 David W Klau Duplex sewing machine
DE707106C (de) * 1939-07-15 1941-06-13 Ernst Sommer Vorrichtung zum selbsttaetigen Zufuehren und Bearbeiten von Textilstoffzuschnitten
US2940404A (en) * 1956-05-17 1960-06-14 Deering Milliken Res Corp Pillow case manufacturing apparatus
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0215581A2 (de) * 1985-09-02 1987-03-25 Galram Technology Industries Ltd. Verfahren und Anlage zur Verlagerung von Gegenständen
EP0215581A3 (de) * 1985-09-02 1988-01-27 Galram Technology Industries Ltd. Verfahren und Anlage zur Verlagerung von Gegenständen
EP0338909A1 (de) * 1988-04-20 1989-10-25 Institut Textile De France Werkstückzuführung zu einer Nähmaschine
FR2630461A1 (fr) * 1988-04-20 1989-10-27 Inst Textile De France Procede et dispositif d'alimentation automatique d'une machine a coudre

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2546380A1 (fr) 1984-11-30
JPS59232576A (ja) 1984-12-27
EP0130096B1 (de) 1987-10-14
ATE30206T1 (de) 1987-10-15
EP0130096A3 (en) 1985-06-19
US4592295A (en) 1986-06-03
DE3466753D1 (en) 1987-11-19

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